DIY Outdoor Furniture with Common Pine Lumber | Compilation

I've compiled my top outdoor woodworking projects into one single video I'm going to show you how to build each one and I'm going to give you some tips and tricks and mistakes to avoid when you finish those projects to make them last longer Outdoors because there's some Woods you should use there's some finishes you should use to make sure they last let's go if you're interested in any of these outdoor projects there are full Bill plans available as well as a bundled plan where you can get all of them in one single bundle for a discounted rate Link in the description pin comment for all the tools and supplies and plans let's build something so the first thing I got to do is cut out the frame for the both the long side and the short side of this DIY sectional and so I'm going to be using common tuba six Pine here and I'm going to cut two pieces at 77 in Long eight pieces 21 and 3/4 and then also two pieces at 39 in and that will make up both frames so I'm using the mask of products M2 pocket hole jig it's easily adjustable so we're going to do inch and a half stock because that's what a what a common 26 is you just set inch and a half there we'll set our depth of our bit we won't drill with this guide so a lot of times you're drilling pocket holes you'll notice that sometimes they'll bust through if if you've drilled too much into your hole so what I like to do is I'll actually back this off maybe an E8 in that helps out a lot now it's time to assemble both frames I'm using tight Bond two wood glue make sure you spread ample amounts here and then also two pocket hole screws on each side I put each end on first then I equally space the center supports this is going to keep everything nice and stable as well as Square once the long frames done do the short frame the exact same way and using clamps here will help keep everything from moving on you so we got both frames built now we're going to put some decking on there I'm just going to use one sixes because they're lighter weight and they're a little less expensive than a 26 right now trying to keep this as low cost as possible so I'm just going to cut four 1X sixes the length of this Frame here to the exact length which is 77 in I believe cut four of those and we'll put a gap in between each one just space them equally so that water can drain out and it's not holding water so we got our basic frame built now we're going to build the legs and I'm going to cut four 26 and 1/2 in pieces for the uprights and there'll be a piece on top it'll make a total of 28 in tall let's build some legs so now I'm just assembling the legs and this is the upright of the leg and this will be the second upright of the leg on the other side of course the top here is your armrest I like to assemble everything upside down I got it clamped in place I got it glued and then we'll just put uh some you make sure you're using outdoor screws here main thing here's you want to make sure the front face is flush and one good tip is to go ahead and start both screws and that'll kind of hold everything in place even though you do have a clamp sometimes that pocket hole tends to throw everything off if you don't have both of them already [Music] started this is a leg assembly the section will actually attach to this side cuz this is actually the leg assembly will sit like this your frame assembly is heavy your frame assembly will actually come in here like this and those pocket holes will be covered that's why you turn them that way we'll actually Mount the top of the frame be at 17 in here and full disclosure you won't have to worry about this because I've already corrected this in the plans that I'm making this is the back board I'm going to take it off and make a longer board because so that's actually going to come together like that and then I'm going to to take this board off actually what happened was I forgot that there needed to be legs back here on this back side so it just I made a mistake so but it wasn't too too late to fix it so that's a great thing we're going to put the legs on right here it's going to be similar to the other style leg except for it's going to come to here and then we'll take this board and extend it all the way across for the back to lay on you'll see what I mean when we get to the back so this is the short side of the sectional I've got it standing up here so I can get my meic so I'm building the short leg for the back and I know that I'm going to need it to come to the to the same as this is so it's 16 and 1/4 from the bottom of the leg up to the top of this 2 six frame and I'm going to build this the same to go on that back corner because there will be a 1 by on top to make it 17 total which is what this will be when we have our one by on top like that so the one by will actually go all the way by this and onto the top of this and for the short leg you're just going to make sure to put the support in there up next to the top of the support so that you'll have something to attach the frame so we're going to start assembling the the sectional now and so this is going to be the what's going to be your armrest up top we want our seat height here at 17 in because our cushions were going to go on there like that they about 4 in thick but when you sit on them they squish pretty good down to about an inch that'll give us about an 18in seat height give or take I'm going to glue this on and screw it because it's going to be outside I and it'll take care if you glue your joints together it'll take care of any squeaking and all that good stuff GL glue to drop this struggle is real struggle is real again these are exterior screws make sure you're using exterior screws so they'll rust and cause problems later probably better pre-drill that last thing we want to happen here is go ahead and have a board split because we did pre-drill our holes before I get too much further along I'm going to take my router I've got a a wh side chamfer bit it's a 45 degree chamfer bit I'm going to chamfer the bottom of these legs and then also the top of these armrests so that it doesn't hurt your arm and on the bottom of the legs is so that they don't split and bust if you just leave them Square then they have a tendency to chip off and stuff if you don't have a router just take your sander and sand that over until you get kind of a rounded Edge that's what I'm doing [Music] now all right all right all right so this is a short side side I'm putting glue here where this short leg is going to be attached again this if you just want to screw it together you can but it's going to keep it from squeaking and stuff later as it uh the wood expands and contracts in this weather even if you've got it stained like we're going to you want to go it's a great idea to go ahead and put glue on this thing so I went ahead and rounded over those bottoms of this leg too which just going to set this in there the main thing you're looking for here is you want to make sure this top side is flush and this back side is flush we'll just screw that [Music] in is this right yeah so now you see that this piece will actually come in there and it attach here underneath and then we'll have our leg on the other end and then that one by run right across the top there it's like 63 and 3/4 yep so you can really see it starting to come together now now I did not glue these down because uh if they ever become because they're for one they're one buys and they may weather less well than the 2 by material so I want to be able to take these up and replace them if needed so I didn't glue these down but I am screwing them at two per intersection there now we're cooking now we're going to put this on this is the leg on the long section and we're going to do it just like we did the other one we want the top at 17 in from the bottom of the leg yep get up there so it's actually 10 and 3/4 of an inch to the bottom and then we'll attach that with glue and screws as well my take measure good so I kind of messed up I wasn't thinking to drill these two holes on the outside when they're actually supposed to go on the inside so don't do that I'm going to stick two screws in there to cover the holes up all right so right before we start building the back so we're building an angle back and we want to go ahead and join this together even though it's going to be extremely hard to move if you're building this as a modular piece you would leave these separate at this point and then you could go ahead and build your backs and just have it to where the backs will attached to the base separately so what we're going to do is is I'm going to glue and screw into from this sideboard into this and then from this piece into this which is why we built this piece like this there's legs on the back side to support the back the middle right here in this corner shouldn't need a leg because it's all tied together now if you're not tying this together and you want to make this two-piece you can certainly do that all you would need to do is put a leg right here on the corner and a leg under this and it would be a two-piece and you could move them uh separately but we're we're going to build a one piece cuz we don't want it to move [Music] separately so I'm working on the back pieces now or the back angles you should have some drops from earlier cuts on this stuff you can use those uh this is a 7° angle and this is a 10° angle you can see that there's a little bit of different there this is fairly straight up this is leaning back a little more I think 10° will be a more comfortable angle and so we're going to go at 10° these are 17 1/2 in uh tall so if you don't have a miter saw and you still want those 10° angles you can use a speed square to uh get the same angle mark it and then cut it with a circular saw just be real uh cautious about getting that angle correct but you can do it with a speed square and a circular saw if you don't have a miter saw so now it's time to start putting the backs on we got the 10° angle on the top and the bottom and then we're going to put a top piece around the top to protect that ingrain it'll help it last longer and it'll look better and we're just going to set these on there on these pieces that are on the edges where the armrests are just going to screw into the armrest from the side and that'll secure it there no need to security anywhere else one here one on the corner one in the middle one on the end so one 2 3 four 5 and the ones out here in the center will be pocket Hool down into the uh structure so just to show you I'm 200 lb this corner is very robust so you don't have to worry about it uh if you've put it together this way you don't have to have that leg sticking in here kind of takes away from the look of it so before I start putting the backs on I'm going to go ahead and take this opportunity to sand all of this uh I'm going to do 80 grit and then 120 grit and that's that's it and then I'm just going to kind of knock the edges off I'll probably take my chamfer bit here on these edges and hit these edges all the way around just to give it a little more detail you don't have to do that you can you just hit it with the sander and just kind of knock that rough edge off once the cushion is on there your leg shouldn't be touching that anyway so I'm going to go ahead and drill some pocket dos in the top so this is actually turned upside down this is the top of my back rail I'm going put one pocketo here one here and that's to screw that top face piece on with and then some of them will have pocket holes on the bottom uh a couple of them will and then the rest of them will be or the two end pieces won't have it on the bottom I went ahead and sanded all these as well just to make things easier so now we're going to go ahead and put the back on this is these are cut at 10° angles the ones that are attached to the arms on each side will have pocket holes going up into the top but none in the bottom because we're going to attach it to the arm itself and then on the corner ERS they'll have pocket holes in the top and the bottom and then we'll have one in the middle on the long side make sure that this backboard is even with this back slapped so that if it's too far forward then your cushions won't fit we better test those first Perfecto she [Music] say so now it's time we going to put the top piece on to cap off these uh ingrains if you leave that ingrain exposed like that it's just going to Sock up water so I want to cap it with this top board I went ahead and drill two pocket holes in one of these 45 miters and what that's going to do is when we get it up there you'll be able to attach these two so they don't flex over time because they're just kind of stand out our over by themselves and then we'll attach from underneath the pocket holes up into these uh top B boards there so I want to make sure it's flush with the front side of this and then you just want to make sure your Corners are lining up before you attach everything now that I know everything's going to line up I can go ahead and attach [Music] it I got my top rail on it's on there pocket hole glued and screwed man that's a good place to rest your arm it's at a good height to rest your arm I'm 5'1 we're going to put the back rails on now to help support those back cushions and they're just going to be two B sixes as well all the way around just going to run two of them spaced equally uh and then we'll pocket hole them in there then we'll be ready for stain right after we sand it but first I'm going to run a chamfer bit around this top piece so that it matches all the side pieces so for the pocket holes that are facing down you want to make sure you fill those with uh I I like to use a 38 in dowal you can buy pocket hole plugs if you don't want to cut these but I usually cut about a 2in piece off put uh glue on there so that's going to prevent water from getting down in there and just standing so I just drive those in there until you hear it bottom out and then you just let that glue dry for 30 45 minutes whatever it takes and then I'll just take this flush trim saw cut it off smooth and then we'll sand everything else to so that it's plugged and I'm going to plug those also just for Aesthetics now it's time to put the back supports on to support those cushions and these are just pocket Hool in from the back I used a scrap piece of tuba to space them out from the bottom of the bench and also between the two boards themselves and then we come back and fill those pocket holes with the same Dow method as before this thing is a be to move it took five of us to get it to the backyard to get it ready for the staining I've got the whole thing assembled and sanded now it's time to stain it or put an oil on this is Australian Timber oil from cabbit it's a jiara brown color that we're going to be using it's made for outdoor furniture and this is what's going to help protect it from the elements as much as possible and I'm using my home right finish Max sprayer it's a very cheap inexpensive sprayer for about 100 bucks spray whatever you want with it whether it be oil based or even waterbased and I just put one coat of this Australian oil on there just be careful not to spray it too thick because it will [Music] run once it's sprayed on there we let this dry for 24 hours before we moved it onto the deck surprisingly with a lot of effort four of us was able to get it onto the deck [Music] [Music] ch I'm going to show you how to build this beautiful outdoor bench you can make it with common Lumber that you find at your local Home Store very easy joinery methods anybody can build this with just a few basic tools if you're interested in building one of these for yourself I have plans available Linked In the description and the pin comment let's go I purchased my lumber locally from a place called Bartons and another place called Allied here in monot Arkansas and why I like using them versus a big box store Lumber is because I can get number one grade two buys like 2 sixes as well as 2 fours appearance grade basically number one one buys it makes some projects look better and there's less knots as well as splits and things like that if you saw my 99% of beginners don't know how to store Lumber video then you know that we need to let this acclimate for a couple of days in the shop before we start building with it if at all possible sometimes that's not possible but if it is it is best to let this stuff acclimate to your environment I picked out the straightest boards for the longer pieces and then any that are going to be shorter then I can use some of the more bent or bowed boards because you're going to take small chunks out of it won't matter as much first thing we're going to do for this bench I said bench b n CH we're going to cut out the seat frame where the seat's going to go first thing you want to do is square up this end of the two before before you start cutting it to length that way you get everything nice and square starting off typically when I have two boards of the same length I'm going to line up one end to make sure it's perfectly flush and then I'll line it up on the other end where the blade is going to cut that way I'll get two EX exact pieces especially if you don't have stop blocks or it's longer than your stop block set up such as here pocket hole time now we're going to pocket hole this thing together I like pocket holes because they're strong and they're easy and you don't have screws sticking everywhere there's going to be enough in this project as it is so the frames just going to be pocket hold together this is basically set up like it's going to be all of your seat slats will go on top of this this bench is going outside so you want to make sure to use coated screws like these blue ones that way they don't rust going to be using wood glue and pocket holes here to join all these together the two outside pieces I'm going to turn the pocket Hol to the inside while it's not ideal uh just for strengthwise it's really not going to be that load bearing on those ends so I'm going to go ahead and turn those on the inside so you don't see the pocket holes from the outside on the inside braces it doesn't matter once I got everything lined up I'm just going to drive the screws into the boards you'll want to use some type of clamp here to hold everything together so it doesn't move while you drive those screws now we're going to St all the center braces all you want to do is Center these up in between this Frame here just going to make sure the tops are plush and it square up and down that way everything just kind of fits together better next thing I'm going to do is cut out four legs I'm going to cut these at 23 and 1/4 in Long now I'm going to set my seat height at 16 in it's a little shorter than I usually do at 18 in but if you put seat cushions on here that it always puts it a little bit too tall so if you're a taller person or you're building this for a taller person you may want to extend these legs up a couple of inches so that you can set your seat height accordingly next thing I'm going to do is drill pocket holes in the aprons for the legs in other words the cross piece that goes across the top of the legs next we're going to assemble our leg assemblies super easy we're going to have two pocket holes per side use a face clamp or something to basically keep these pieces in line nice and flush and then drive the pocket hole screws if your cuts are good 90° you shouldn't have any issues with everything lining up again make sure you're using outdoor screws now this part's optional I'm going to plug these pocket holes with a 3/8 in dial they also sell pocket hole plugs there's a couple reasons you want to do this one Aesthetics because it's going to look better once it's finished and you won't have holes in the armrest another reason you want to do this is to protect it from water getting in there and things like that while it's outside now we're going to cut our back supports you're only going to actually need about a little over 6 foot of tuas six so if you need just to buy just one eight-footer and you'll have a twft piece left over you can do that we're going to cut two pieces at 18 in starting out so to create an angled back all we're going to do is basically we're going to keep an inch and a/2 on the top we'll measure up say 4 and a half 4 and a/4 from the bottom then we'll connect those two lines and then we'll cut that piece off and that will give our angle back to cut that angle you can use a jigsaw or if you have a table saw with a tapering jig such as this if you saw that video where I made this it's super easy to do on there after cutting the angles on the seat supports I'm going to cut two two fours out the equal lengths these are 47 in long we're going to drill pocket holes in those and that's going to support our seat back slats during this project I've been using the 3M dust extractor and I do like that they have the step down dust adapter that fits into most ports like on the Mas pocketo je so this seat support or the back slat support needs to be flush with this angle and it'll be flushed with the top now you will have a little bit of angle up the top that that's not matching the crossboard but you can trim that off later if you want now the easiest way to do that instead of trying to hold this in the air and get it right is just to flip this over put the pocket holes on the back then you'll just line up that top corner with this corner and because it's on a flat surface it'll all line up on the other side and screw these in place now we're going to put the middle brace on the back and I'm just going to measure down 4 in from the top board between the two so inside and inside measurements and screw this in place with pocket holes and glue now this is what your seat back frame should look like we get these front pieces lined up with that angle and then we'll attach the slats and then we'll put it on the frame still got a little bit of work to do but it's looking good for the back slats I used one before and I cut 14 of them out to the exact same length or as close to the same length as I can get it now to install the seat back slats what I'm going to do or what I have done is I've just set this back frame down inside this Frame because that's where it will be mounted whenever we're ready to mount which we're not yet and then I'm just going to take two of my seat slats that I will be using later these are just 1X sixes we're going to stack those on top of this Frame and we're going to use that as a spacer it'll make it a lot easier and then what we're going to do is start spacing these out and screwing them into to the back supports to make sure I got all my screws exactly right all the way across I'm going to just measure up from here look at the center of the boards we're looking at about 4 and a qu again we're not building a clock so it doesn't have to be exact and then also 12 up here so we'll just measure from the bottom up on all these 4 and a/4 and 12 pre-drill some holes and then we'll attach them that it would be much easier if I just take a counter syn bit like this make one that's the template just set them on top of the next one and then I can just basically make a pilot hole and then counter syn drill through there if you line everything up bottom and top side to side everything should match when we start putting them up there for the first back slat I'm going to round over Round the Corner using a flush trim bit with a Craig radius jig if you don't have this you can certainly just use a sander or even a jigsaw we'll do this on both ends for the first back slap we're going to flush it up on the side we're going to put two inch and a qu deck screws or outdoor ready screws so we want make sure you use those so they don't rust and we're just going to go all the way down through there spacing them about a carpenter's width pencil apart which is just about 5/16 of an in so it messed up so the pencil spacer was too much and it left too big of a gap to try to compensate over the last three or four boards not a big deal we just take all the screws out it's fine I'm going to use this rule it's about an 8 in thick give or take a smidgen smidgen is a technical term for a little bit so all you have to do is put that Ru in there and we'll space it out when we get to about four or five boards left we'll look and see but I should be pretty close to space those out equally so you'll never know it unless you watch this video so once you get the back slats put on you can take it out of the frame you may notice that if everything isn't just perfect in other words you couldn't get all of your Cuts just exactly perfect there may be a tiny bit of difference between those boards up and down if you want to take care of that or straighten everything up all you have to do is lay a board up here that's longer than this and just clamp it down and then use that as a straight edge to cut the top of these all exactly the same you can do the same thing on the bottom as well or if you have a track saw you can do the same thing and that'll just line everything up nice and perfect if you don't want to do that then it's still fine just like this and most people will never notice unless they get really up close and see it it's really up to you that just makes it look more professional next thing I'm going to do is just go ahead and sand the back to 120 git it's going to be much easier to do it now versus after it's installed or attached to the frame also sand that frame to 120 grip before we move on to the next step if you want to go the extra mile these little knot holes you see that are completely encircled with opening around them those will work loose matter of fact that one is loose now if you can see that those will work loose over time and then you'll have a hole there we don't want that we're going to put some medium thick starbond in brown because I'm going to use a brown colored outdoor finish all you're going to do is run a little bead of this glue all the way around that this is going to lock that in Forever This activator makes it set up within about 30 seconds we're going to do that on all the knot holes we'll sand that flush and then we'll be ready to move on to the next step also if you find any knot holes that have like a crack in them you can seal those up if you want to that just helps go the extra mile now it's time to attach the back I'm going to make sure that the frame is sitting flush on the table as well as this back support upright I'm going to drive one screw in this corner then I'm going to square this up and then I'm going to drive about four or five total in there driving from the inside out that way you don't have any screws showing on the outside of your frame you also want to make sure you pre-drill these holes so that they don't split the wood and ruin your project we're going to do this on both ends the first seat slide I'm going to install is the one on the back now this this one really isn't necessary but to get the correct spacing it's just easier and it'll look more finished now one thing you can do if you want to is Notch this piece out so that this extends over I don't really see a need for that here but if you wanted to do that you can those seat braces that are underneath just going to take a square and Mark a line right in the center of that brace so that we'll have something to screw into and we can keep those lines straight going across there you'll just pre-drill and drill the holes in you also put a few across the back just for good measure once we get the back seat slat set say that three times fast we're going to go ahead and cut the rest of them 53 in just shy 53 give us a little play and then we'll Notch out around everything that we need notches them for the seat slats we're just using common 1x6 these are Spruce you can use pine or whatever you got to get our Notch around this Frame this upright I'm just going to use this little speed square it's a dfm square that'll mark on each end exactly where it will Notch out and slide in there now we need to know the distance pretty easy way to do that just to measure back minus 38 of an inch cuz we're going to have a 3/8 in gap look like a about an inch and an eigh we'll just take a jigsaw and cut those out now to space these seat slats out I'm going to use 3/8 in Dows now if you don't have 38 in dials you can also use 38 in drill bits or just cut some 38 in shims or pieces of wood to slide in there between these boards once I'm happy with a fit I'm going to sand this before I put it in because it's going to be very difficult to get back there to sand that if we don't do that now to attach the seat slats I'm using the same inch and a qu screws we use on the back and I pre-drilled and counter sunk each one to prevent the wood from splitting I'm going to set my miter saw on 35° and I'm going to cut a angle on the bottom of the legs just to give it a little something extra just so they're not just squared off legs if you don't have a miter saw then you can just do this with a jigsa whatever you got you want to go ahead and sand these leg assemblies before we attach them on the bottom where we cut those angles I'm going to go ahead and round those over just a little bit with that sander so that we don't have any sharp Corners this is where we can adjust our seat height depending on how tall who you're making this is for we typically make ours at about 18 in but if you wanted to put cushions on here then you need to take that into account as well so from the bottom of the leg to the top of the seat we're going to make this 16 in that way we can have a good cushion on there if we so choose and if we don't it's still going to be comfortable for most people to make attaching the leg assemblies easier I'm using some quick clamps that help hold it in place that way I don't have to fight them while I'm trying to get everything laid out so you're looking at about 11 and 1 12 11 and 3/4 from the bottom to the bottom of the rail from the bottom of the leg to the bottom of your front apron with that 3/4 in piece on there that should give you 16in seat height all right from here we have a little bit of an option on what we can do this is the last piece or the last seat slat you see that it's hanging over maybe a/4 in on the front if we flush mount this leg to the front then this is what it'll look like you could just kind of 45 that or sand that over just to give it a little more roundness or you could inset this about an inch and then we can Notch out around that and it'll kind of give it a little more finished look that's what I'm going to do I marked the legs under on the back side just so that I know where they're at just because of that I'm going to use glue here because I want all the strength I can get on these legs the main thing here is you're going to make sure that the legs are exactly 11 and 3/4 from the apron on both ends attaching the next leg assembly should be relatively easy we're going to measure in 1 in again that way we know how far back to set our leg assembly then we can just set it up here clamp it and screw it from inside that way don't have to worry about holding anything up I'm going to make a mark at 11 3/4 just to make it easier on me so for the front seat slap we're going to need to notch this out so it'll go back in there but leave a little bit here to cover the front of that it's just a look thing if you wanted to inset that again you could so I just put a dial in there we're going to slide that back until it bumps out then we'll just Mark the front of that front leg do that on both ends we'll Notch it out using a speed square will help guide you and keep yours cut square is to attach the final seat slat I'm doing it the same way that I did the the rest of them then I'm going to use a sander to round over that front corner it's going to soften up that edge and it's going to make it match the rest of the bench next thing I'm going to do is cut out the armrest they're going to be about 24 and 1/4 in long I want them to stick out exactly the same length as the seat so it all matches and on the front two corners I'm going to round them over similar to what we did on the back slats before you install those handrails you're going to want to sand those down at 120 GP make sure you hit the ends and around that corner just so you can soften up those sharp edges you don't want nobody get in a splinter because you failed to sand the there's a couple of ways you can attach these handrails you can pocket hole up from underneath and then plug those holes or you can just do what we've done on the rest of this bench on as far as the seat slats and the back slats and just drill and screw those in and I think that's what we're going to do here going to flush it up against the back that way the front overhangs and then we'll drill down into there make sure you mark before you drill to make this outdoor ready I'm going to use this cabat Australian Timber oil I spray it on with my home right sprayer very light coach you don't want to overdo it because it will run it's very thin but this is one of the best outdoor finishes I found that takes little to no maintenance about every couple of years you'll need to reapply but it holds up extremely well to the Arkansas weather I've got a whole video on outdoor projects how to finish them what Woods to choose I'll link that at the end of this video as well as that card you see popping up now we dedicate this video in memory of Miss Ronda Brantley sandland one of my wife's best friends at school an amazing teacher and an even better friend we're donating this bench to the J Central Middle School they're having a plaque made for it in honor of miss sanderlin miss sandland you will be missed greatly hey man today I want to show you how to build this awesome DIY modern outdoor chair we're just going to use common yellow pine for this build you can get it at your local home store it's a very easier beginner woodworking project we're going to use pocket holes for the joinery method a lot of you have already built the modern outdoor sectional that we did a few months ago and this is a matching chair to that this project only takes five 10ft 2x sixes and one 10t 1 six I'm just using Southern yellow pine for the this build I've had good luck with yellow pine and outdoor furniture if you finish it correctly like I'll show you at the end you can use more outdoor friendly wood Redwood Cypress Cedar things like that if you wish actually had the build plans drawn up before this project then I build according to the plans and I just cut everything out before I started this made everything go so much faster I was actually able to make this full project start to finish in about 4 hours once I had all my pieces cut out I labeled them so that I wouldn't get them mixed up you want to set your bit at an inch and A2 as well as a jig on an inch and a half and start drilling pocket holes we're going to drill several pocket holes here first thing we're going to do is build the seat [Music] frame going to use tibon 3 because TI Bond 3 is better for exterior use and I'm also using exterior grade pocket hole screws make sure you use a clamp when you start assembling that'll keep everything from slipping and sliding on you wipe that excess glue off as you [Music] go so the main thing is on the seat frame is to keep all of the top pieces flush that way when you put your slats on there they don't be rocking and all that stuff if they're close it's okay if you're off a tiny bit of 16th or so I don't think you'll ever notice it but to be on the safe side try to keep that top flat and the reason I say that is a lot of these Tu sixes that you get from the home store they're not all 5 1/2 in wide exactly some will be 5 and 3/8 some will be 5 and 5/8 some will be 5 and 1/2 so you may wind up with some imperfections there where the they didn't line up just right this video is brought you by 731b works.com go check out our online store we have easy to follow build plans with stepbystep in instructions to help you make awesome projects just like this one I put together this outdoor projects bundle for you save you 20% versus buying them individually now we're going to build the leg assemblies and one thing to keep in mind on the leg rail where the frame that we just built is going to attach you want to drill the pocket holes kind of skewed to one side and we're going to put those toward the bottom so that that frame covers those up you'll see what I mean in a [Music] minute so we put this brace on there make sure you turn these pocket holes that we kind of skewed to one side flip those around so that they're closer to the bottom of the leg that way when we put our frame on it'll hide those pocket holes cover them up won't have to worry about filling those later and you won't see them either and also turn them in toward your seat if you use wood glue on all your joints especially these outdoor pieces like this one is going to make it stronger and two to keep it from squeaking later you can use your one-of A- kind glue spreader or whatever you got the reason I'm using a straight edge here is you see that this piece has a little bit of that rough Edge there missing so I just used a straight edge to make sure that my leg is lined up with the brace [Music] here got this leg assembly done now we're going to make [Music] another these are our seat SL that we cut earlier you want to make sure that they're going the same direction as your front board so that it all lines up right so you should have four of them and we're just going to equally space those out now's a good time to make sure that they're not overhanging on each side so that it prevents your legs from being attached if you feel some overhang you can go ahead and trim those off now using exterior grade screws here for the seat slats and it's always a good idea to pre-drill this stuff especially these soft woods so they don't split and bust on you I'm sanding to 120 grit it's best to go ahead and sand now instead of after you get everything put together because it just makes life easier you should have two leg assemblies and one seat frame I measured up 17 in from the bottom so that the top of my seat will be 17 in and then when you add the cushion which is usually about an inch thick that gives you about an 18 in seat height if you're building these for shorter people you can adjust your height here that these could be the same you've got plenty of space there to adjust that seat height down if you want a shorter seat height you want to make sure that the seat this piece goes across the front and then your slats are going to be running between the two legs remember this is an outdoor chair it's going to get rained on it's going to have you know it's going to be in the weather the heat the cold you're not building a clock so just get it close to your marks about four screws should be good I'm using 2 and 1/4 in screws here make sure that you're flush on each side therey I took a 45 degree chamfer bit slowmo and I went ahead and rounded over the bottoms of the feet that keeps them from splintering later so you can kind of start seeing the chair come together of course we got to put the back on there and it's going to look a little bit deep to you right now like it's sitting too far or too much depth there but when we put that back on at that 10° angle it's going to be [Music] awesome you're going to cut parallel 10° angles on your upright you're only going to need two of these you want to drill pocket holes in the top of your upright go ahead and sand those and make your life [Music] easyier putting the back brace on I should have don't be me I should have put the pocket holes both on the inside I accidentally uh drill them the same way so there's no way to turn that around I put a little glue here where it's going to contact the armrest as well as on the bottom and all I'm going to do is flush that up to the back here of the arm stop stop stop pass me made a big mistake that future me is now here to correct [Music] now for the seat slats I'm going to drill pocket holes two in each in and I'm going to reject this call about my car's [Music] [Music] warranty we got to put the back slats in I've already put one in this top piece has to go on there just I just used a couple of small blocks to put under the this the bottom piece so that it it raises it up a little bit my concern as I'm putting this together you won't have to worry about this if you get the plans is that the back's too high while comfortable I don't know if there's a cushion out there that's going to go that high although you really don't even need a cushion it's quite comfortable I may trim the top off a little bit this looks more proportionate like that I think the other way cutting off 3 and 1/2 in it just looked a little out of proportion that looks better sometimes you just got to wing it and kind of go with your gut and hope I'm not wrong and my wife can find a cushion for that so because I cut those uprights I'm going to need to drill two pocket hole screws so that I can attach to the top piece and the Mas M2 is very versatile as you can see here I was able to do that so I'm actually going to plug these pocket holes just to keep weather out and different things like that it's not really a huge deal if you don't have any but it's always it's not a bad idea they make these plugs actually work really well in two by material just put a little glue on the back just stick them up in there and then it'll dry then you can sand it back down you see it's a little high on one side and a little lower on the other I messed up so while I was goofing around claiming to be the pocketo king I realized that that's crooked and apparently my measurement was off from here to here so I need to take this off before the glue gets too set what happens when you get over confident we're off uh 38 of an inch probably so what I'm going to wind up doing is using the same pocket holes even though I'm taking off 38 of an inch that means I can't use these 2 and 1 half inch screws so I'll go back with 2in screws to kind of make up the difference why are you so heavy that fixed it so we got an even Gap there now that's just a uh oh in my spot so we make sure we use shorter screws on this side and we'll reattach everything reglue refill the pocket holes just creating myself extra work is all we did I took my 45° chamfer bit and just went around the whole enti entire piece that gives it it just breaks up those sharp edges you can use a round over or you can sand it then I did a final sand at 120° I'm going with cabbat Australian Timber oil it's for deck siding railings and outdoor furniture we've used it previously on our outdoor sectional as well as our deck and I really like this so I just pour it my home right sprayer this is a really good sprayer for about 100 bucks I'm going to spray the bottom first and then flip it over and spray the top this stuff is really thin so you have to kind of really go fast or it'll pull up on you I was able to spray the whole thing in about 10 [Music] minutes you can see where it kind of pulled up on me where I was trying to get in those cracks I'm just going to take a paper towel and wipe this off this actually comes off really easily and it's basically just like wiping off excess stain once you do that you should have a nice uniform [Music] look this is where I messed up I lined up the back with the arms and that's not where you line it up so what that does actually is leave 2 in that should have been on the seat because I put this too far forward and I'm going to have to use big hos here to correct the problem might have to knock the back off and move it back because I didn't follow my own written plans like a dummy it was a big mistake on my part let me show you how I fix why did I put it under there yeah this is going to suck rubber mallet yep ruining that blade I need a metal blade H oh the SCU to that's what's going on that did it that did it [Music] [Applause] [Music] I knew oh hos would do it so I got of boogered up this wood I'm going to have to sand that a little bit and refinish it however if you follow the plans that won't be an issue so to touch it up I'm just going to use a paper towel dip it in this can and just kind of wipe it on there A lot of times this oil type finish will have the pigment will settle in the bottom not sure if you can see that so you actually the pigment on the end of the stick there so it's always a great idea to stir your [Music] finishes the pocket hole King has return actually with all the mistakes I made in this build I'm more of a pocket old gesture than I am a king but that's all right I had fun building it get after it make some saw a lot of beginners have trouble with picking outdoor woods and finishing the outdoor project so that they last I'm going to answer 10 of your most common questions about building outdoor projects what types of wood to use what types of finish to use how to make them last as long as possible and if you stick around I'll give you a power tip on how to make that outdoor furniture last a very long time let's go Chris Coleman Justin bannan and Bo Champion all kind of wanted to know the same thing what's the best outdoor finish and there's several to choose from and we'll go through all of them now they kind of had different spin depend on it like which one's going to be outside all the time in other words full exposure to the weather some I'm wanted to know best in covered areas versus outdoor areas there's a few different options to choose from as far as finishes goes depending on the look you want my personal favorite is a penetrating wood oil AKA mostly you can think of it as an oilbased stain for indoor projects but I really really like Australian Timber oil it's made by cabbit and not sponsored I've just used the product for a few years now and find it to hold up for a very long time take our outdoor sectional and cherill both of those creeping up on 2 years now and I have yet to touch them they haven't been refinished or anything and they still look very very close to the way they did the day I finished them and it's held up well still repelling the water like it's supposed to I just really like that product with penetrating wos you don't have to worry about it cracking or peeling because it gets down into the wood grain now you do need to think about maintaining that finish probably every 2 years or depending on how much exposure to the weather it may be a little more often but any finish is going to need maintenance there's also several other companies out there putting out products similar to this like osmo general finishes and different ones like that you just want to make sure you get the ones with UV protection so that it stands up longer in the sun Spar urethane is also another option while I don't care for Spar urethane I used it early on when I very first started woodworking it's hard to get a really nice clean finish with it as far as no brush Strokes or anything like that and you have to put like four or five different layers on another coat you have to put a coat on let it dry for several hours Put Another coat on and just build up that finish to get proper protection and it just doesn't last very long you're going to have to reapply that about every year and finally probably one of the best outdoor finish you can use is an exterior paint now make sure you're using high quality exterior paints and don't cheap out here if you buy the cheap stuff you're going to regret it in just a few months and when you do paint it with exterior paint it still requires maintenance make sure you keep an eye on it make sure it doesn't start chipping or flaking or cracking if that happens you're going to need to refinish that spot just to make sure you keep that wood sealed and the reason it's probably one of the best wood finishes for outside is because it seals in that wood now I made this wood bench in November 2017 the Double Arrow bench we painted it red to begin with and then miss 731 wanted to change the color and we wind up changing it to this dark blue it held up extremely well even outside full sun every day in the elements rain SLE or snow it was just there it it held up extremely well we sold it just a couple of weeks ago because we're changing up our deck and we're going to build some more stuff out there but the day I sold it it looked just as good as the day I built it so for applying the outdoor finish you can spray it you can brush it you can rub it on if it's going to be like a stain but I really prefer to spray it on because it gets in those gaps much easier I like the home right finish Max sprayer got a whole video on this but I've used this sprayer for almost 6 years or a little over 6 years now and I've had zero trouble with it for about 100 bucks it's hard to beat this sprayer number two from Joshua vava I wanted to know what's the best food safe wood finish if you're talking Outdoors then really I wouldn't consider any of them food safe as far as prepping food on the table but as far as if you drop something on the table you pick it up and eat it most all of your finishes made for wood are going to be okay because after they're cured they're basically inert now I'm not a scientist I'm not any of that stuff but for the most part everything that you're going to be using after it's dried and fully cured you shouldn't have any issues with that now the only food safe finishes are things like mineral oil those type finishes that are not really going to hold up to Outdoors so you're not going to use those as an outdoor finish outdoor woodworking projects are probably my most favorite projects of all time for two reasons number one they were the bestselling woodworking project for our business I made more outdoor projects for people than anything else and you get to spend time with family outside enjoying the Great Outdoors without a lot of distractions I'd like to help you build some of those if you go to our website 731 woodwork. store check out our outdoor projects as well as many other woodworking plans if use the code outdoor I give you 20% off any project get out there and make some sawdust sit outside and enjoy it number three on the list Austin Franklin want to know how do you prevent Cedar from graying and pine will do this treated lumber will do this the how you prevent that from actually turning gray if you want to retain that natural color then you're going to want to use a clear finish and those clear finishes we just talked about the general finishes has a clear finish osmo has a clear finish cabin also makes a finish that you can use and there's just multitude of choic ches to choose from but those finishes still new maintenance so every year or so you're going to need to pressure wash it and then put that finish back on there and just keep it maintained you'll keep that color number four on L the question I got was can you use pressure treated lumber for your outdoor projects yes and no I don't like pressure treated lumber for furniture and things like that because it splits it cracks it bows it bends as it starts drying out it's just not in my opinion a good choice for outdoor furniture also the the chemicals they use to treat pressure treated lumber are not meant for skin contact so if somebody's wearing shorts or put their arms on an armrest that's pressure treated it may cause some skin irritation so I would just avoid that for most outdoor projects one thing it is good for is decks and things like that which is what I built my deck out of it's all pressure treated lumber it's held up well there's been a couple of boards that have bowed up pretty bad that I had to replace after it was initially put down that's just the nature of pressure treated lumber if you must use fressh treated lumber I just really wouldn't build it for anything people are going to be sitting on or eating on or anything like that number five Mr Link one wanted to know about the ongoing maintenance of outdoor finishes I previously touched on this but for the most part you can expect to every year or two years you're probably going to need to maintain that finish in some way now oilbased finishes like the cabbat Australian Timber oil I've had mine on for two years it still looks good I'm not touching it now if it starts to fade then I'll just take a pressure washer and wash that wash and wash the uh project down and and then restain it use a cleaner I like to mix bleach with Borax and a little water it makes a really good cleaner for your deck or outdoor wood and once it's dry completely dry then you'll reapply that finish it's really not that big of a deal take you about a day maybe two and then you're back in business every 2 years give or take but that largely depends on the heat level the humidity level uh just your weather in your area too the number six question I got was what clear finishes work on outdoor projects a lot of people don't want the natural color gone they don't want to stain they want to leave it that natural color especially if you use certain wood types again General Finishes outdoor oil osmo UV protection Spar urethane even although it can Amber it a little bit those types are perfect for that clear finish you're looking for number seven firewolf creative want to know the best and the worst Woods to use for outdoor projects I touched on pressure treated lumber already but as far as the best Woods to use that's going to last the longer hold up the best to weather you're looking at eepa IP is how it's spelled teak mahogany those are all great choices although they're very expensive compared to some of the others Cedars Cypress and white oak are also excellent choices for outdoor projects is they just hold up better A lot of people frown on using pine but I've had very good luck with pine as long as you use the proper finish as we talked about earlier you'll be perfectly fine with pine how you like that I've used it on a ton of stuff and it's held up extremely well Pine's a very durable wood if you treat it right one thing you don't want to use is Red Oak while you can use White Oak white o Oak holds up very well to the weather Red Oak doesn't White Oak has a substance in it called tylosis where Red Oak doesn't have it so tylosis basically seals the wood grain up so it doesn't absorb as much water Red Oak doesn't so it pulls that stuff in like a straw so it just absorbs more water and I would avoid that number eight what's the worst wood you can use for outdoor furniture again pressure treated lumber just shouldn't be used for furniture in my opinion number nine Mr Bill Hawk wanted to know what's the best Fasteners to use for outdoors there's some you want to avoid which we'll touch on but for the most part you want to stick to stain steel screws if you can find them or brass Fasteners work well too Craig also makes an outdoor screw that works extremely well has that blue coating on there and then deck screws and things like that also have a coating to prevent them from rusting now what you want to avoid for outdoors are zinc coated screws they'll rust as well as black oxide screws similar to what you would see in a drywall screw those rust extremely fast and when they rust you're going to lose the integrity and they have the very high likelihood of breaking especially if you're using on benches and things like that that need some weight bearing number 10 on the list Griffin Woodworks wanted to know the minimum spacing between the boards on tables benches things like that that's a very important question because outdoor furniture goes through a ton of different environments it's sometimes it's hot sometimes it's cold so that expansion and contraction of the wood is more than what say goes on in your house so what I like to do especially on benches tabletops things like that is leave a minimum of 1/8 inch between each board and while most Woods even pinees soft Woods things like that will expand and contract I don't think that anything more than an e/ in is necessary in most cases now on seat slats I do typically leave about a 3/8 inch Gap that's really only just to help that water drain off there faster so it just doesn't sit there but an e/ inch is fine it's just really up to you but make sure you leave a little gap for that water drainage as well as expansion and contraction here's a bonus tip for you wood glue matters on your outdoor projects I really like tight Bond 3 for outdoor projects because if you'll notice on the label it says waterproof exterior and interior while typ Bond 2 says water resistant it's really not meant for outdoor as much it's you can but the Ty Bond 3 is a better choice if you'll notice their charts they even recommend typ Bond 3 over typ Bon 2 for exterior projects tyon 3 also has a higher PSI strength and it's just a better allaround glue for outdoor projects cutting boards anything's going to get wet you know what time it is power tip time if you want your outdoor woodworking projects to last as long as possible especially those projects that are going to be sitting on the ground or sitting on a patio or a deck then you need to seal that ingrain of the feet that are touching the surface one of the best things you can do is take some epoxy type glue like this from Gorilla Glue Loctite makes some there's several different models I'll link the description below what I use put a piece of painter tape around it and then fill it about a 16th of an inch is all it's going to take and let that dry it'll take a couple of hours or so it says 5 minutes that's not true it's going to take it a little bit of time to dry once that's fully here you can take that tape off sand it down however you want and then put finish on your project that will help keep that water from absorbing on the ground up into the feet because of that ingrain that's open right there seals that up how you doing I'm Matt today we're going to build this awesome DIY storage chest you can use this inside as a to store blankets quilts toys we're actually going to use this on our deck as a storage ottoman because my wife wanted to be able to put our covers in here and not blankets or quilts but the kind that we cover our sectional with our table and a place to kick our feet up and relax a little let me see Kiki put up did y'all see that it barely made it on the camera very easy build free plans available Link in the description below let me show you how I did it so the first thing we got to do is cut out the boards that's going to make up the side and end panels very easy just cut six 1X six is 36 in Long and then 6 22 1/2 in long that's going to make both sides of your [Music] [Applause] [Music] box once that's done I just lay out the holes where the pocket holes we're going to do I just split them evenly going to use my Masa M2 pocket hole jig set on a 3/4 in setting here we're going to start drilling pocket holes two per board evenly spaced very easy be sure and hit that subscribe button click that Bell icon next to it so you get notified of all of our new content after the pocket holes I just sanded everything to 120 grit glue pocket hole screws and a face clamp to help everything stay lined up it's all you need make up all four panels there'll be a link in the description below to the tools and supplies I'm using in this build when you're assembling these panels make sure to keep both ends aligned as perfectly as you can also if you don't have a jointer or anything I didn't join any these boards I just Factory Edge to factory Edge it'll give it a little more detailed look the only size screw you're going to need for this project is an inch and a quar pocket hole screw this is an extremely easy beginner woodworking project that you can do with minimal tools and minimal experience there's free plans available Linked In the description below next thing we're going to do is cut out the legs so I'm going to set my table saw at 2 and 3/4 of an inch and rip four boards 2 and 3/4 of an inch wide by 19 and 1/ quar long then I set the table saw at 2 in and I ripped four boards two Ines wide by 19 and 1/4 in long so I actually just ripped all of these parts out of the tul so if you haven't noticed I've been using CMT blades recently on my Myers saw and table saw if you use the code in the description below at Tay tools.com you can get 10% off these are really really good blades once we have the leg Parts cut out we just use our one-of aind glue spreader and some wood glue glue them edge to edge here what you're going to wind up with is a 2 and 3/4 x 2 and 3/4 leg you want to join them edge to edge I just use pin nails to hold them while the glue dries if you don't have a brad nailer or a pin nailer you can just clamp these and leave them clamped until the glue is dry we got all our sides made and our legs and now it's time to start assembling the box it's pretty simple actually so what we're going to do is I'm going to assemble it upside down it's always easier to do that the The Wider side I'm going to put to the front this is the front of my box and I'm just going to turn we got it upside down we're going to lay it on the bench so that this and this are Flo on the bench that way when you flip it over they're flush on the top this is also going to give it a little more detail than if we just put some legs on there that were flat against the face here so all we're going to do is put glue in there and then Brad nail it or pin nail it in place just going to hold it for the glue to dry you're going to spread that glue with that oneof a kind glue spreader you got once the glue is spread out pretty good now I just clamped it on there because I want to check and see if this is flush down here or what's going to be the top if that's not flush you can adjust it now before you attach it we've got it flush to this face and we've got it all the way against the ing grain of those boards and we're just going to attach those you can use brad nails finish nails you can leave it clamped until the glue dries if that's what you want to do so your assembly should look something like that I'm going to assemble the other end but just to show you your side pieces will go on exactly the same way except they're going to go into this groove we're going to clamp those down nail those into place so that the glue [Music] [Music] dries now that the box is assembled we got to build the bottom and on mine because it's going outside I left gaps in there so I just used four one sixes that I cut 34 and 5/8 in long and then drill two pocket holes on each end then I sand it to 120 grit then I just attach them flush with the bottom [Music] after the bottom is installed I ripped out 2 in pieces and then cut them to fit the size that I needed to go as trim we going to do this on the top and the bottom all the way around then I just cut those test fit them in place and then once I figured out that I like the way it looked then I use glue and pin nails again to hold it in place if you don't have a pin nailer again you can just clamp these until they're dry this gives a box a whole lot more detail than just leaving it without it's very simple to do these are all square Cuts next thing we're doing is cutting out the top we're going to need five pieces that are 37 and 5/8 in wide now make sure to measure your box to make sure that's accurate but we're going to rip one of those down to a smaller strip driller pocket holes get ready to just put glue and pocketo screws in and attach four of those five pieces together [Music] once you have those together take a measurement on your box for the depth and then measure and Mark that depth onto your top and then we're going to rip that last piece out with the table saw it should be about 3 and 5/8 in wide once that's ripped you're just going to attach it to the [Music] top and for the top I just cut some 2in strips and and attach them to the top make sure you leave some space on the front and back so that it can open and close and then I just attach those with glue and Brad Nails all that's going to do is help it be a little more rigid so that the top doesn't flex and warp over time especially since this one's going outside Ain look good ain't it so we got everything we got it trimmed out next I got to sand all this but first I want to go ahead and put the top on because I got to mount the top and then and take it back off so we can stain it here's the top I just put those extra supports under there so that it doesn't Cup on us later it's just glue and some brad nails is fine let's see how she fits pretty good not perfect but it's not a clock it's just a storage box You' got like and there's like a 302 or 16th overhang right there it'll be fine you wouldn't even know if I ain't told you and yours is going to be the same way so I'm going to go ahead and mount this we're going to put the hinges on the back I'll show you how to do that and then we will sand this and get it stained and ready to go I am going to chamfer these edges so that it are not sharp I may actually chamfer the inside of all of this yeah I think I might and then of course the corners top I like chamfering Link in the description below to plans for this as well as all the tools and supplies used in this build so I picked up these hinges at a local hardware store and attached them you see me trying to figure out which way I wanted to put them this is actually the only way they would work so I attached Sals I'd use my spring-loaded nail punch to Mark the holes where they go that way when I pre-drill my holes the drill bit wouldn't move on me I would actually be able to drill those holes more accurately then we just attach those with the provided screws and also attached the handle on the front to help open and close the [Music] lid then I use a 45° chamfer bid on my palm router then routed the inside and outside edges of the whole box except for the top I left it flat so that when you close the lid it closes [Music] [Music] flat then I sanded the 120 grit and everything is looking good so far now let me show you how I'm going to stain this and make it outdoor ready if you want to use this Outdoors it needs to be treated with something that's going to give it a little weather resistance this is what we're going to use so like on our outdoor sectional build we're using this cabbat Australian Timber oil it's in jar brown color then I put put that in my home right finish Max sprayer and sprayed it on you can brush this stuff on but it's really thin like water thin so you just going to spray light coats be careful of runs and then what I did was spray the bottom of the Box first so that I can get the underside of that trim as well as the bottom then I flipped it over sprayed the inside of the box and then all four sides and it takes this stuff about 48 hours to dry so make sure you check the weather not going to have any rain for a couple of days then we just reattach the lid using the same screw holes that we created earlier and as Miss 731 unrolls and packs up this cover you'll notice a little block of wood under the lid there that was just so that the lid could dry while after it was attached now she can kick her feet up and relax now that she's got a place to store those outdoor covers if you haven't seen the matching sectional build there's a link at the end of this video that takes you right to that build it's a really cool easy build as [Music] well hey if you like this video click that box right there it's going to take you to the outdoor DIY sectional Bill we did a few weeks ago click in that box get you a big old virtual fist bump thank you so much for watching hey man today I want to show you how to build this easy DIY lounge chair you can use this on the beach the patio of the deck or even around the fire pit these are so simple to make for this project we're going to use three power tools that most everybody has we're going to take 2 hours we're going to made one awesome project let's do it I packed up the plans and a few small tools into this tiny box to take it with me on vacation with my family to the beautiful Destin Florida they have white sandy beaches and Crystal Clear Water most of the time while I was there I wanted to build this project which is why I brought the tools so I went to Home Depot I picked out some one but twos and some 24s as well as some screws glue and sanding blocks actually bought four Tu fours and return one cuz I only needed three so I got the lumber the wood glue the screws and the sanding BL blocks all for $635 but the lumber itself was just over $23 I unpacked all my tools and you can see I only had a drill a driver and a circular saw speed square and a tape measure first thing we're going to do is lay out everything and cut everything and then we'll start assembling with the plans and makes it super fast let's start the timer and see if we can get it done in under 2 hours make sure to square up the end of your boards because they're not squar from the factory and then I just cut all my parts out with the circular saw you can see me using the speed square here as a guide so that it helps me keep good straight cuts be sure and pick up your mess I built this on the Home Depot parking lot I didn't ask anybody I just I didn't have it anywhere else to work so I decided to do it there I figured it was better to ask for forgiveness than permission if I got caught or asked to leave which I didn't so thumbs up there when cutting out the one by twos I cut my first one to length and then I use those as a guide for the rest of them now you're going to have two different lengths on this chair one for the seat base one for the seat back but I cut them out both the same way using one as a guy time check it took me just over 17 minutes to cut out all the parts to this chair I want to take a really quick break from the video to let you know we have Bill plans available for this project and many others on our website 731b works.com store and if you use the code chair I'll give you 20% off any order go check it out now from there I started laying out the holes I was going to pre-drill it's best to pre-drill holes especially in Pine because they're notorious for splitting if you just drive a screw in there without pre-drilling I use this counter sync drill bit for every bit of this project and it was really easy to use and made a nice little pilet hole to hide the head of the screws or just counter syn it once it was time for assembly I used wood glue on every joint of this project anytime wood touch wood that'll make everything nice and solid this is where I use the 2 and 1/2 in screws is for the 2x4 frames to connect everything together and the inch and a half screws we'll use on the seat slats themselves for the seat slats I drilled a counter sink hole in the center about a 3/4 of an inch away from each end that way everything looks nice and uniform when you put them all together also put a 1 in gap in between each seat slap while I was in the parking lot building my wife wanted to go eat breakfast and I had the truck so she got an Uber to a local breakfast restaurant during the Uber ride my wife was talking to the driver and made friends with her very quickly somehow got brought up that I was making a chair in the parking lot of Home Depot and the lady jokingly said I'd love to have a chair well my wife said you can have it for the base of the chair I left this Gap so that the back slide in there and speaking of the back we're going to cut a 15° angle on one end of the back uprights that's going to make it slant so that when it sets on the ground it connects correctly I just used my speed square for this to lay out the 15° angle then I use the circular saw and just took it slow and cut those angles out for the two before that connects the two 15° angle pieces I just slanted that slightly to match that 15° angle and drove screws to hold it in place this is my son you see here who was helping me with this project so we can get it done and he did a really good job on this thing if you like this type content be sure to hit the Subscribe button click the Bell icon next to it so you get notified of all the new content we've got coming to put the back on because I didn't have a mallet or anything like that I just turned it upside down and it slipped right into place and once you slip it into place those two slats should connect and stop everything where it needs to go from there I just drove screws from the inside to towards the outside to just basically hide those screws you can do it from the outside end if you wish for the front legs I glued and screwed the uprights together and then slipped those in place and they should bottom out on the bottom of those seat slats that way everything's nice and solid be sure to use wood glue when you connect these once that was assembled I broke out those 120 grit sanding blocks and went to town this took a little bit of time and a lot of elbow grip grease but it's well worth it so you don't get any splinters and you knock down those rough edges be sure to hit the edges of all those boards and then also the faces of them this chair is surprisingly light and we were able to do it in an hour and 26 minutes so woo woo it is comfortable it's a good angle I get a lot of comments or emails or messages saying if I had that many tools or a Shop full of tools I could build that too well for this project you don't need that this is going back to my roots where I started with a borrowed circular saw and two drills so don't let minimal tools stop you from building awesome projects the important thing is you got to have some want to you got to want to get out there and make things with the tools that you have start small and you work your way up that's how most of us did it today I'm going to show you how to make five DIY outdoor tailgating or party games I'll show you how to make classic corn oil boards very easy very simple to do but a lot of fun next I'll show you how to make this giant four in a row game after that we'll make ladder talk toss or ladder golf as some people call it and then we'll do a washer toss game and then also 731 pong that my wife come up with let me show you how we did it first thing we got to do to build these cornhole boards is to break down this plywood I'm just using a straight edge and a circular saw so I'm just cutting twoot strips out of this plywood we have plans available to all of these games Linked In the description below next thing we got to do is Mark the holes for the cornhole board I measure down 9 in and then of course right in the center at 12 in Mark that hole and I use a center punch here so that my drill bit doesn't move on me drill a pilot hole then use this Beast of a 6-in hole saw made specifically for cornhole boards actually be careful cuz this thing will hurt you if you're not careful it will twist your arm [Music] bad [Music] [Applause] so the next thing we're going to do is cut the frames for the cornhole boards we're making two cornal boards so we're going to have four pieces that are 48 in long and four pieces that are 21 in long this is just common to [Music] [Applause] a you know what time it is power tip time make sure before you cut the new board you don't want to just this is a new board never been cut from the store this end needs to be squared up before you use it because if you can see that right there it is fairly out of Square from the lumber yard probably a good 64th out maybe a 32nd out of squares so you want to go ahead and cut this end off and make it Square before you take your measurement and cut your first piece so to join all these boards together I'm just going to use pocket holes because they're extremely strong and durable and I like them I like them a lot this is the masca twin pocket hole jig kit this will come with everything you need to drill the pocket holes if you don't have a pocket hole system then pick up some 2 and 1/2 in screws as well this be a very inexpensive way for you to get [Music] started so I showed you the Masa twin pocketo jig because it's very inexpensive and easy to get started however I prefer the Masa M2 pocketo jig because it's a little more versatile and a lot easier to use especially when you're drilling multiple pocket holes now it's time to assemble the frame I'm just using tight Bond 2 wood glue use your one-of a kind glue spreader there spread that glue out used a clamp just to hold everything nice and snug while I drive these pocket o screws we going to use 2 and 1/2 in Pocket o screws here since you're using two [Music] before so next thing we got to do is to cut our legs out I'm going to cut these just a little over 12 in long and I'm going to mark this hole down about 2 and 1/2 in and then going to to Mark Center and use a center punch so that my drill bit doesn't walk on me and then from that Center hole I'm going to use a compass to draw the radius of the circle if you don't have a compass just use a cup or whatever you've got then I just Ed a 3/8 in drill bit and drilled the hole so I use the jigsaw to cut the curve and then I just use my orbital sander to clean those cuts up and while we're sanding I just use 120 grit to sand [Applause] everything also use the little elbow grease right here for the circles then I drilled the 38 in holes using the same bit through the frame using the legs as a guide and the top of the board I just use a 45° chamfer bit just to break the edge so it's not just sharp and [Music] square there is a real easy way to get that angle super simple let me show you I measure up 12 in from the top side or the face of the plywood up to there to get the angle exactly right every single time I just use a 4T level use the bottom of the level down there the bottom of the level here hold it on that 12-in Mark and draw a line that's going to give you your angle should be about between 13 and 15° now we just take them off take them to the MIT saw and cut that line they should be [Music] exact bada bing bada boom look at that perfect 12 in yep I should have painted the whole thing together but I didn't cuz I had a different idea I was going to do but essentially you can just go ahead and assemble the frame and paint the whole thing at one time if you want I just use glue and some pin nails to hold it while the glue dries that's what the final product's going to be I'm going to show you how we did this custom paint job in just a minute the next game is this awesome ladder toss game you're just going to cut 36 in pieces you're going to need four of those and you're going to need 10 5 in pieces to make the base once those are made you're going to sand those up and then we're going to assemble them it's probably one of the easier ones you're going to be able to build and I want to make this portable so I want it to come apart so we can pack it up and take it with us to the tailgate or we can take it to the family reunion or to the party or whatever we need to do so you've got your two 36 in pieces you've got your spacer blocks then you have your Riser where the dials are going to go for your ladder I've got Center on this board marked I've got Center of this board marked and we're just going to line those up you can move your spacers blocks in we're going to glue it and then put a couple brad nails in there to hold it to the glue dries so if you have pieces you're gluing together this is a pretty old trick most a lot of people know just take a little bit of salt regular table salt cuz when we try to clamp This Together everything's going to start moving and slicking and sliding because all of these pieces are pretty slick so we're just going to take a little bit of salt add on this side little bit of salt on this side and do that all the way and that'll keep everything from moving it basically gives it something to grip [Music] to don't leave this in here till it dries because if any glue squeezes out and gets on this board it's going to be stuck so go ahead and take that out while the glue dries I did leave just a little bit of a gap not maybe not even a 64th or 302 there just so we got wood expansion and contraction uh we won't it won't get like lodged in there if the it's real humid out or something like that [Music] and I just cut some 45° angles on each end just so that they're not Square just gives it a little more detail next I use an inch and a quar forcer bit and drill down about a/2 inch and I drill three of these in each upright this is inch and a qu dial Rod you can get this at your home store it's actually made for closets to hang clothes on so it's very readily available going to cut those in 25 in lengths put plenty of glue here in the holes you just drilled they're not all the way through they're just 1/ inch deep and then you're going to inset those dials into that clamp those in place and let that [Music] dry next is time to make the washer toss and yep I said washer you're going to rip these down into 14in squares you're going to need two 14in squares then I cut 4in strips out so that I could make the sides and then I cut them to length here use a/ in setting on my Masa M2 pocketo jig because it's a/ in plywood drill two pocket holes on each side of the 14in square then I just use onein pocket hole screws to attach the sides [Music] then I just use some brad nails to hold the corners in place while the glue dries once that's done I use 4in PVC pipe cut it 3 and 1/2 in or [Music] long so once you measure get in the center you'll Mark a line and then put some clear CA glue the activator mash it in place and it'll be there it sticks really well just use your little bit of sandpaper to knock off that [Music] sharp then I used the orbital sander 120 git sandpaper and sanded everything then we put this pretty cool looking paint job on both of these next is time for the pong game now this one I made a little different because I used 3/4 in plywood because it's what I had available I cut a 15in Square on this one and then rip down strips into 4 and 1/4 in [Music] wide use a similar process using a Mas M2 pocket hole jig but this time on a 3/4 in setting because it's 3/4 in material two pocket holes on each side and then we attach the side using glue an inch and a qu pocket hole [Music] screw so we're cutting this PVC pipe into equal sizes 3 and 1/2 in long this stuff makes a mess when you're cutting it I just make sure to Mark the center one just like we did before clear CA glue use that activator so that it sticks instantly and then I just equally space the four outside pieces of PVC pipe the rules for 731 pong are pretty simple these are foam golf balls Link in the description to these so you throw it from a dist distance 15 ft if you land in the center that's seven points either one at the top is three and then the bottom is one 7 three one check that paint job out let me show you how we did that first we got to build this awesome four in a row game first thing you want to do is just rip a 24in strip out of the plywood and then from there you're going to rip so that your final width is 41 in by 24 in tall and now it's time to lay out all of these holes there's like 35 of these holes you're going to have to drill so it's going to take you a little time so take your time lay these out I've got plans available Link in the description below if you want to lay this out just like this I use a straight edge to Mark these [Music] holes then from there I just take a small drill bit to drill pilot holes so that the bigger bit has something something to got [Applause] it I clamp both pieces of plywood together this is just quarter inch plywood and drill the holes at the same time so that they line up exactly and your drill will hate you when you're done it will hate you it gets so hot that thing is so hot I can't hardly hold it it did not like that once that done the worst part of the whole project is actually sanding the inside of these holes I just used 120 grit sandpaper and it took me a while to do that next we RI the strips down so that we're able to assemble this so now it's time to assemble this these are inch and a half strips We're going to glue those on I'm going to actually use some CA glue to kind of temporarily stick them but also use wood glue that'll take a little longer to dry but the CA glue will help get everything stuck in place and the reason I'm doing that is because especially these half by halfs they could they tend to be twisted or bowed a little so if it's bowed then you're going to want to tack this down straight and it's going to need to be straight should be a/2 inch between the hole and the edge of this piece on each row this piece goes flush against the side this is just starbond medium thick clear just going to put a couple of dabs down through there and we'll spray the activator on this side what the activator does is it basically makes it almost an instant [Music] set [Music] to put the second piece on we're not going to use CA glue because it's not needed here we're going to just weight it down so that everything dries we'll have time to do that while we work on the legs and the base what you want to do is you go and put your wood glue on this is going to give you plenty of time to get everything lined up [Music] now time start on the frame and the legs it's going to hold this four in a row game up again I'm using M mask M2 pocket hole jig to drill pocket holes in the uprights of the legs and then we'll attach those using a face clamp an inch and a quarter screws into the cross member of the leg and you're just going to measure this make sure it's about Center and then drive those screws in that'll hold it and to get these pieces I just ripped a 1 six in half [Music] next I'm going to cut 45° angles on some shorter pieces for bracing and I use pocket holes to do the same thing with these drill the pocket holes and then attach them with the inch and a quar pocket holes for [Music] each once the leg assemblies are attached just put glue on there and then clamp them in place and use brad nails to attach them when the glue dries that's all you'll need all right so we know that once you get the disc in there and you won the game and you're celebrating Victorious and you want to start over you're going to have to figure out a way to dump these I've just cut a couple of small pieces we're going to use a 3/4 in spacer cuz I'm going to cut a little strip of 3/4 in 2 or 3 in wide we can actually move in and [Music] out once that's done I need a bottom tray to actually hold the playing disc that you're going to use as a for and Ro so I just use a 1x six here drill pocket holes in each end and then four on each [Music] side [Music] I use the ones on each end to attach to the [Music] legs then I rip two smaller strips and attach them to the side just so that it would hold those disc in without them falling out basically you're just making a bottom [Music] tray [Music] next we got to cut out all the disc and this is a 5-in hole saw this was going to take some time cutting those 5in disc out of/ in plywood I cut three or four at a time and then I would sand the three or four while my drill cooled down because it doesn't like this it's going to hate you again you need about 36 of these first thing I got to do is spray primer on all of this I used a just a good primer from Sheron Williams sprayed all of it so we had three three different colors we were painting red white and blue so what I did was I just painted everything that was going to be red first and then everything that was going to be blue and then everything was going to be white so that I didn't have to clean them come back I just use my home right finish Max sprayer for this we bought all of our paint at Sheron Williams then the colors are 6524 Commodore blue 2839 Roy cough copper red the old trusty 6112 Biscuit White this 731 brought her design skills into the game and she started taping this off using frog tape so that she could put her spin on it she had an idea in her mind that what she wanted to do so we just let her go first thing we did was just use that Biscuit White and painted a white V on this board you see that frog tape works really well now there's a couple of places where it bled through just a little bit but it's very very very little we also put some red stripes on there tieing the Flag theme did the same thing on the red board used that same frog tape and then she freehanded taped a star this is like genius level to me because there's no way I could have ever done this I thought this come out [Music] fantastic once she got the star taped on there she used a razor knife and just cut out the inside of the star so that we could paint and hindsight we should have painted the V blue and then come back and painted the star white after the blue dried but this worked out because once we painted the star white we took the tape off and then we raped and then painted blue making sure not to get inside that white star that actually gave some really crisp clean lines on the star that is such a satisfying process removing the tape and seeing that clean line check those out that's fantastic now for the special paint job after we got a biscuit white coat on this we just slung paint on there that was super fun and it just it actually looked really cool on that white the way everything kind of tied in with the red white and blue we did that on everything except for the cornhole boards if you like the American red white and blue theme we've got I'll put a link in the description below to all these products w [Music] [Music] w you got to check out my greatest tips and tricks video right there everything I know I crammed it into that video click that box get you the big old virtual fist buum

Channel: 731 Woodworks

Views: 157,092

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Id: bgFF8scEQDg

Length: 92min 12sec (5532 seconds)

Published: Thu Feb 08 2024