DIY FIRE & EPOXY DESK // SHOU SUGI BAN

[Music] why hello there brent here with the bring your own tools on today's episode if you want to see how we completely made a one-of-a-kind desk with two by fours and a flame torch with a little bit of epoxy we'll keep on watching let's get started [Music] so as you can see there's a slight bevel on all four corners and i want a nice perfect even surface to glue upon so therefore we're going to cut about an eighth of an inch off of both sides and then glue the actual table together so let's start cutting for this project i followed a couple parameters first and foremost i wanted to make sure the materials were easy to obtain and secondly and most importantly they were cost effective this is basically as simple as you can get because these are just your generic two by fours that are eight feet long that you can get at any general hardware store and as that be the case this is also some of the most inexpensive lumber you can get for a table because for this project i purchased ten two by fours and it cost me around forty dollars as for cutting the material i would highly suggest acquiring a feather board which is that big blue thing on my table saw which basically just acts as a third hand and it allows you to push the material up against the table saw fence and therefore you have very little wiggle room when it comes time to actually pushing the piece of lumber down the saw blade and therefore you get a much crisper cleaner line in the long run now that we have our boards fully flattened out it's now time to glue them together and the one tool to really help us do that is our biscuit joiner now this actually cuts perfect horizontal slits into our sides of wood which inevitably fit perfectly with these biscuits now these don't provide any strength for the table whatsoever but it does make it a lot easier to glue this entire table up versus trying to use a lot of clamps to even it out evenly so let's start biscuiting i first place a pencil line mark between each board approximately 12 inches from each end as well as in the dead center i also place a nice little star emblem on one side just to make sure i know exactly where these boards need to go back to because we're going to be flipping them back and forth and i don't want any confusion in the long run i line up my biscuit joiner with the pencil line i made previously and then cut a perfect slit on each pencil line now for most woodworking projects i would actually have my biscuit space approximately 12 inches from each other however i obviously have the space much further apart mainly due to the fact that we're going to be line this thing on fire and i'm not going to be worried too much about the small minute differences between board board at this point it's now time for globe and i'm actually using titebond 3 for this application well in all honesty i did use type on two because i ran out of type on three at a certain point but the only real difference in this application is one type on three drives a little bit darker than type one two and tight bond three actually provides a little bit longer of a working time than type bond too just keep that in mind on your next woodworking project as for the application of the glue i'm just using a rockler silicone glue brush which works perfectly because glue does not stick to it and therefore you can use it on multiple projects i also highly suggest applying glue to both sides of each board that way you can ensure you have proper glue coverage and trust me you're going to need that on this project because we are going to put these boards through the ringer as for clamps i'm using my standard three-quarter inch pipe clamp which is one of my favorite clamps because one is inexpensive and it's extremely versatile because you can connect it to any three-quarter inch pipe as far as length goes as long as it has a threaded end i'll make sure to leave a link in the description box below on where to actually purchase these ones if you're interested at this point time i'm just cleaning up some of the excess glue that spilled out once i tightened all my pipe clamps and trust me you're going to want to do that because the less glue you have to sand down the better in this application i let the table dry for approximately 24 hours and then remove all of my clamps now before sanding i decided to remove the excess material on both ends that i need to cut down which is approximately six to eight inches on both sides just make sure you are accounted for this ahead of time so you don't have a biscuit that you're cutting straight through i will decide to get a track saw one day but before then it's easy enough just to use a level with two clamps on both sides to ensure that you have a nice guide all the way across which provides a perfectly clean straight line for heavy duty standing where i really don't care too much about the finish i always go straight to this veritable speed disc sander by dewalt it's a perfect standard to remove a lot of material in a very quick orderly fashion as well as the fact that it has a shroud so you can actually collect the majority of all the dust with a shopvac connection system the beauty about this shop vac is that you plug in your sander directly into it and once you turn on the sander it actually turns on the shop vac for you and turns it off simultaneously at the same time okay well being that we are basically using a flamethrower to torch this tabletop you got to be careful so i got a live hose i got wet blankets and a fire extinguisher so just keep that in mind especially if you're doing this type of torching because i don't want to burn down my beautiful house this is connected to a propane tank as you can see you can adjust it from this angle and basically open it up once you open it up you prime it and once it's primed it is ready to go so as you can see it doesn't take much now the fun begins this technique is called sho sugiban i actually did some research just to try and pronounce it correctly so if there are individuals that know how to pronounce it correctly please let me know if i did apparently it's an ancient japanese wood burning technique which actually reduces the ability for wood rot pest resistance weather resistance fire resistance and uv resistance so apparently there are quite a few advantages of doing something like this maybe not as quite as extreme as i took it but inevitably the thought process behind this technique is actually beneficial for the longevity of wood when working with fire of course number one priority is safety first so making sure that you're taking care of yourself as well as your surroundings is most important but guess what slow motion is pretty sweet with fire which i just have to obviously add because it's so cool right so if you can see this is basically a little bit more scorched than over here and that's what i'm looking for i want that gator skin look over this entire surface so i'm basically planning on doing that to the entire surface and seeing what happens but this is exactly what i'm looking for right here yep i had to leave this torch on for a significant amount of time in each specific area and i tried a couple different techniques whether that was staying on the same board and going from left to right or going up and down as you can see here in more of a circular pattern which actually worked out pretty well by no means is my technique scientific but i basically was just leaving on there in order to have a consistent char all the way across now there are different layers of char that you could also put on this this is definitely more of a significant layer and if i wanted to i could really let this thing burn and see what happens but the one thing i wanted to be considerate of is making sure that i did not heat this table up to the point where the structurability and the integrity of the actual table was in jeopardy due to the fact that i glued these boards up so you do have to take that in consideration on this specific project because it's not just wood we're talking about we're talking about wood and glue [Music] now as you can see there's quite a significant dip in the middle due to the fact that we took a large blow towards this thing and just curled up on both sides what i'm gonna do to try and minimize it is i'm actually gonna flip it over and burn the back side to try and at least even out slightly we'll see how it does but that way we can use less epoxy in the long run full disclosure i really didn't know if this was actually going to work but i'm super happy with that i did it this way because it actually flattened out almost perfectly just by applying a little bit of heat on the backside as well as some much needed pressure by me staining on it it completely flattened out within 10 minutes of blow torching at this point in time it's now time for epoxy and of course we are using our total boat high performance epoxy for this tabletop pour it's a two part two to one mixing ratio so just keep that in mind when you're mixing thoroughly and it provides a perfectly crystal clear finish in the end with a lot of the epoxy that i use especially the ones that are in my garage during the winter they tend to thicken up a bit what i always suggest doing before you start pouring is placing the epoxy into a tub of hot water for just five minutes it reduces the viscosity and actually makes it a lot easier to pour thoroughly over the entire span all i use to spread out the epoxy is just a thin plastic spreader that's really all that you need in order to have a nice flat surface because this liquid will be self leveling as for the edges i do take a foam brush to apply the epoxy because it makes it a little bit easier to get a proper consistency of epoxy on all the edges once i have my first coat fully applied i then take my torch my small torch and apply a bit of heat just to pop all those small miscellaneous air bubbles at this point remember this first coat is really only a seal coat because you want to seal in all that beautiful burnt wood and bark that was created with the larger torch it also reduces the chances of more air bubbles coming to the surface after you apply your second coat because you already have those small gaps in the wood completely covered with epoxy now after our first coat i did realize that there are more drips coming off of this corner which inevitably is because i did not level that corner first so make sure you double check make sure things are level if they're not level go and put a shim right underneath there level it out and that way it will avoid excessive drips on one edge versus all the others now let's pour the second coat i let the first coat of epoxy dry for approximately two hours and at this point the epoxy is basically tacky to the touch and as you can see the color and the beauty is already coming out but we gotta make sure it's perfectly smooth which is what the secondary flood code is all about because the first coat is still tacky you'll have perfect adhesion between the two coats now full disclosure i have to give full credit to fellow youtuber cam over at blacktail studios he is a amazing woodworker and actually learned this burning and epoxy technique on his channel and i loved it so much i had to do it on mine and i will leave a link in the description box below on where to find the video that's inspired this project as the epoxy is wet you do want to remove all the drip edges if possible at that point with just your finger however if it does dry thoroughly go ahead and just take some 300 grit sandpaper and sand it smooth and guess what drips be gone as for the back side all i do is apply a bit of halcon clear by total boat to seal in that beautiful burnt wood look it doesn't have to be epoxy because no one's ever going to see it but i do want to make sure it's fully sealed because i don't want to have an exposed wood char on the bottom of my table and every single time i touch the bottom of the table my hands are black no one wants that except i don't know maybe coal miners i apply the halcon clear with a foam roller and just distribute the solution as evenly as possible over the entire backside once that clear coat is dry i want to step it up a bit with a bit of technology and i actually take a couple items from doug mockett this first one is specifically a wireless charging pad that's hidden because it's actually underneath the table i actually installed this in a previous project and i loved it so much i wanted to install it on this one as well the nice thing about this kit is that it actually comes with this specific bit which gives you a perfect dimension as well as a setting screw so you know exactly what depth you need to set to so you don't go too deep i actually personally screwed up the placement of the first one but luckily it blends in perfectly with a little bit of fire at this point go ahead and insert the charger then put a set screw in place and it's ready to be powered up i also wanted to install a usb unit from mockit as well because not all devices can charge wirelessly now comes time to actually fixing up this whole office space yes i know it's pretty ridiculous and yes it is not the most professional looking but that's why i'm trying to make over this space into something much more enjoyable that you actually want to sit at i am making a rail system and actually support the table top i'm not going to go into too much detail other than the fact that i'm using a tube steel that i may placing onto the wall because in my next video i'm going to be showing how to install a brick stencil system on the wall for a more decorative look as well as hook this table top up to an adjustable height desk so please stay tuned for that one but at this point all we have to do is plug in our market units and guess what we are done [Music] i truly loved learning new skills and trying new things and this project was something that i took on for the very first time and i didn't know what was going to be in store for me but it turned out absolutely beautiful and i love how i was able to incorporate a few smart gadgets along the way as well as the fact that this finish turned out absolutely beautiful it's a charred metallic look almost it was actually hard to capture the finish on film so please leave a comment down below on what you think of this finish now comes time to putting this whole workspace back together and it's a perfect way to introduce today's sponsor which is carl friedrich they specialize in making high quality leather goods that are manufactured in tuscany italy and the fact that i'm a dual citizen with italy just means that i have to love that it is the season right now for gift giving and if you want 15 off please check out the link below and type in byot15 at checkout i love products that you can automatically tell the high quality aspect of it just by touching it and carl friedrich is no exception to that it's beautiful it's sleek and just like my desk it's one beautiful sexy beast oh yeah

Channel: BYOT

Views: 105,563

Keywords: byotools, diy, do it yourself, how to, tutorial, start to finish, byot, SHOU SUGI BAN, desk, epoxy desk, total boat, total boat epoxy, shou sugi ban technique, shou sugi ban furniture, shou sugi ban desk, shou sugi ban table, computer desk, diy computer desk, how to shou sugi ban, mockett, woodworking, 2x4, 2x4 furniture, 2x4 projects, 2x4 workbench, shou sugi ban tutorial, diy desk, rockler desk challenge, FIRE & EPOXY DESK, FIRE & EPOXY, how to build a desk, building a desk

Id: niWMhRuELDM

Length: 16min 25sec (985 seconds)

Published: Mon Nov 30 2020