DIY Dream Bed || Modern Bedroom Renovation for my Loft || Woodworking & LED Lighting

what's up makers my Clifford here and this time I'm a dust trail maker I'm going to show you how I created my dream bedroom now in addition to the bed itself I also built surround cabinets that give me tons of storage I've built two floating nightstands with soft-close drawers I added flush undermount LED lighting to serve as reading lights above the bed I added LED lighting underneath the bed I added a glass touch panel on either side of the bed to control the LED lighting lastly I added a big leaf maple live-edge slab headboard behind the bed so let's get going and see how it was done oh yeah and since this is a really long project I put links to the specific sections in the video description below so that you can jump right to whatever part you want to see right now really easily in my mind this seemed like a really simple remodel to start with I was going to demo and remove an old bed that I'd built in my pre youtube days and also remove some built-in IKEA pax wardrobes and then replace those with a new bed where the wardrobe had been I say that it seems simple because it actually turned out to be about the most challenging project I've ever done I made so many mistakes that I actually struggled for a minute with whether I should even release this video but ultimately I decided that people could learn from my mistakes and that there are some other techniques in here that people might find useful the first challenge was the seemingly simple task of breaking down the ten sheets of plywood to be used for the bed and surrounding cabinets I can't fit a 4x8 sheet of plywood into my elevator to take it down to my basement shop so I had to start the process of breaking everything down in my garage it's been setting up a temporary shop there to do that and then take everything down to my shop where I could cut out all the pieces that I would need to make up the cabinets and the [Music] so we've got the sides of the cabinets that are gonna go to the sides and on top of the bed cut down and we're gonna start assembling them down here in the shop we're gonna do this a little differently than you normally would so we're only going to assemble these sides in the top and the bottom down here then we're gonna carry that upstairs attach it to the plywood sheet that we can then put again to the wall then after that we'll go ahead and put the drawer fronts on them but for now let's just use pocket whole joinery to assemble the sides tops and bottoms of these cabinet so that on camera segment was recorded while I still thought this was a great idea to put the plywood sheets against the wall and then use that basically the wall as the back for all the cabinets because I thought I could just screw right into the wall wherever I want and I thought I was gonna make alignment keys but there were a number of issues and flaws in this plan that I discovered as I went along now onto the 200 or so pocket holes I had to drill for this now pocket holes don't get a lot of love but they really serve a purpose for this product cuz I could hide most of them except for the fact that all right so just had a major setback after drilling about a hundred pocket holes I discovered that he call it on my credit head slip so the the holes on like ninety seven of them were way too deep I could go back through all of those holes like it was like a hundred of them and plug those with dowels sand them down so we could get back to where we started and now I have to read drill all them at the proper depth lesson learned every few holes I'm just throwing the bit right back into the Kreg jig so I can just double check that the length is correct simple enough to do and it's gonna give me some peace of mind I don't know maybe it'll prevent somebody else having the same thing happen to them so let's go do this again I won't subject you to socket Hall boredom anymore I'll just after two days nothing but pocket holes I was ready to be done with them and move on to assembling however before I could assemble the cabinets there was one more task that seems small but because of the sheer number of cabinets actually ended up taking me another probably day and a half or two days and that was edge banding all the pieces of the wood I just used some iron-on edge banding that I got some big rolls of on Etsy I'm gonna put a link in the description because it's a really good source for higher quality edge banding and in this case I got maple that matches the plywood very well and these edge banding tools are invaluable when you have a lot of edge banding do they really help take it off much quicker than using a razor blade like I've done in the past I also picked up a j-roller tool instead of just for lying on the pressure of the iron to push the edge banding onto the piece of wood and this really did help it adhere better and I think gave me much higher quality results in all the edge banding done it was time to move on to assembling the cabinets and I started with the upper cabinets would go above the bed and just to clarify while that rendering showed one large cabinet I actually made two cabinets because the span of the upper cabinets was longer than 8 feet so I couldn't make it out of one sheet of plywood and just broken into two and the design was very straightforward just basically a box I'll probably go back and add some shelving or organization to it later but for now there was enough going on in this build I just kept it simple next I moved on to assembling the side cabinets these are going to have shelves on the interior and drawer fronts that will make the whole cabinet facade have a clean modern look now the first cabinet I was able to assemble using pocket holes from the interior that I'd drilled into the shelves themselves however for the second cabinet which was a bit narrower I couldn't get my drill inside to screw into the pocket holes even though that was what I planned on using so I changed up the plan and decided to screw in from the side and use dowels to conceal the screws for the shelves I first drilled a small pilot hole for the screws then I would use a Forstner bit that was three-eighths inches to drill a larger hole that the screw head would sit inside of it then go back with the dowels to cover the screw head this technique of drumming in from the side and using dowels to cover the screw heads was actually easier so I wish I'd actually done that for the other shelf as well but again live and learn in hindsight is twenty-twenty next I moved on to making the floating nightstands and the drawers that would go inside them I made the drawers first because I thought it might be easier to assemble them and then cut the floating cabinets to exactly the right size to fit the drawers and hardware besides of the drawers are going to be made from half-inch plywood and I started by cutting a quarter inch channel in the sides using my router table then took those sides over to the table saw and cut them down to the exact dimensions for the drawers then I cut the bottoms for the drawers from some quarter inch MDF and in retrospect because of the width of the drawers probably should have gone with half-inch material for the base but it seems to be holding up okay for now to assemble the drawers I just kept it really simple I used wood glue in the slots between the MDF and the sides squared it up and then used my cordless nailer to secure the drawers while the glue dry then I decided to give the drawers a little bit of a personal touch by first spray-painting them gray and then using street art stencils and Montana gold spray paint to put some cool designs on the underside and the inside of the drawers since this is a built in bed I envisioned it staying in my loft even after I sell it and move on and so this was a cool way of doing something personal but hidden so it wouldn't mess up the more general appeal of the bed and hurt resale value with it to assemble the floating nightstands I just used glue and pocket holes to connect the sides to the top of the cabinet cover for the bottom of the cabinet the location of the drawer slides prevented me from using pocket hole joinery and since you wouldn't see the underside of these cabinets I just used a Forstner bit to drill a pilot hole and then screws straight into the sides from the bottom next it was on to installing the drawer hardware and I actually removed the bottoms of the drawers just to make it a bit easier to do the install for the slides I used some soft close Hardware that I got off Amazon and I used rocklers drawers slide installation jig which made it a bit easier to get the job done I'm not going to provide a whole lot of details on that process because there's a ton of videos out there on installing drawer slides and I didn't do anything differently than any of those wall TV before installing the shelves and floating nightstands I had to install the plywood wall panels which were just made from three and a half four by eight plywood sheets I'll explain why these plywood wall panels weren't such a good idea in a minute but first I'm gonna show you some things I did to prepare the panel's before installing them I cut out some rough holes before outlets and I'm gonna have an electrician come back later so I didn't worry about making those too pretty right now I also used a Forstner bit to drill holes and locations where screws would be at visible location so I could go back and use dowels to cover those screws later now let's go back to the question of how I thought this was a good idea in the first place the previous owner was my loft had covered the drywall with wallpaper and I hate dry walling and I didn't want to mess with removing wallpaper so seemed like it would be easy with the metal studs there using the special screws I found that the design would screw through the drywall and attach suds to attach a bunch of plywood sheets across the entire wall the first fundamental issue is that working with pew sheets of plywood is just unwieldy and was really difficult to get them installed I ended up enlisting with parents to help me out the second and biggest issue was that the wall itself was bowed by about I'd say an inch or so from the middle to the sides and this meant that the plywood sheets didn't form a flat surface when they were just screwed directly through the drywall to the studs that ultimately created a lot of problems when trying to install the cabinets and get them flush since I was using these plywood sheets as the backs of the cabinets a better system would have been to use some long French pleats that would run the length of the wall it could be easily shimmed out to be flat to install the long runs of cabinets but live and learn if anyone else tries this I just don't recommend do it this way I [Music] decided to bring all the cabinets and the floating nightstands upstairs to the bedroom to do the staining they're just so I had a little bit more space and as usual the supervisor was making sure everything went smoothly I decided to use general finishes black water-based gel stain on the cabinet when I was trying different stains I really liked this one because it was black but it let the grain of the wood show through which is what I wanted with the maple however I will say that there was another small mistake in the step it really would have been better to stain all the pieces of wood before assembling the cabinets with this stain you wipe it on and wipe it off immediately and it's really important to get an even look that you do the whole surface at once which is really challenging to do once the cabinets are assembled I would stain all the wood before assembly if I did this again [Music] after the stain had dried for 24 hours I applied four coats of polycrylic matte finish off-camera and then it was time to install the floating nightstands and the surround cabinets i shimmied up the floating nightstand on the left side and then used some heavy-duty L brackets to install it into the pie wood wall I couldn't find any way to show that on camera but I did make sure that one of the L brackets was located on a metal stud I then installed two heavy-duty L brackets that would hold the side cabinet I used a scrap piece of plywood with a level here to make sure that the two brackets were perfectly level and spaced from the top of the plywood by exactly the width of a plywood sheet so the top of the cabinet would line up with the top of the plywood wall panels and then screwed one of the L brackets to the scrap piece of plywood and extended my level across the installed cabinet and the scrap piece so that the L bracket could be used as a guide for pre drilling holes which would then result in the top cabinet being perpendicular across its top with the existing cabinet I then repeated this process to install the second top cabinet and the right side cabinet before moving on to install the second floating nightstand on the right side of the fence [Music] okay got a little issue with installation because I can't access these drawers from the back when they're closed and we need to get these inset drawer fronts aligned with the cabinet so what we're gonna do is just use hot glue attach it temporarily with the hot glue and then that way once we get it aligned and adjusted using the hot glue get a dial in we can go back and attach it permanently with screws from behind [Music] after the drawer fronts were installed I removed the drawers to install the handles the screws that came with the handle were designed for 3/4 inch wood and so I had to use a Forstner bit to clear out the half inch plywood in the back so that the handle would fit tightly through the 3/4 inch maple front [Music] next I went back to the shop to prepare the doors for the side cabinets and top cabinets for the soft clothes hinges and I was going to use to make the cutouts in the door panels I used a one and three-eighths inch Forstner bit on my drill press off-camera I had done some tests yet set the depth stop on the drill press to fit the hinges but I wanted to test fit it there quickly made sure it was good and then moved on to do the cutouts for the rest of the hinges use the right angle tool to align the hinges perpendicular to the sides of the drawers then use the hinge itself as a template or a center punch to mark where to drill for the hinge screws [Music] i shamed each door up to where I wanted it on the cabinet carcass and then marks the center point of each hinge on the inside of the cabinet card I made an acrylic copy of the template for the cut-up pattern that came with the hinges I clamped the acrylic kool guide so that its centerline was aligned with the holes I'd marked on the inside of the carcass then drilled the holes for the mating part of each hinge and with that I could attach the doors for the cabinet [Music] so we're about halfway through the bed build we've got the cabinet surrounding the bed done and it's time to move on and actually make the bed itself and I was pretty excited that at this point it was starting to look a lot like my Sketchup model and by the way if you're into design decisions or just seeing stuff behind the scenes go follow me on instagram because I make a lot of community to design decisions over there as my builds are in progress but let's not get ahead of ourselves there's still a lot to do so what you see here behind me is the first bed that I made when I moved into this loft and it had a wood wall there originally that I've taken down the bed itself is made from a 2x4 frame and select pine now the select pine won't match the maple that we use for the cabinets so what I'm gonna try to do is take this apart and then I'm hoping that we can actually reuse the 2x4 frame from this and then just skin it in maple plywood to simplify the bed build so let's get going dissembling this and see what we find underneath and while I'm tearing down that old bed let's take a minute and talk about this video sponsor audible audible has a massive selection of audio books and now with audible originals the selection has expanded even further audible originals are exclusive audio titles created by celebrated storytellers just for audible members every month audible members get one credit good for any audiobook you choose to audible originals that they can't get anywhere else personally I've really enjoyed listening to audiobooks while I'm in the shop I've recently been listening to a book called creativity the psychology of discovery and invention it explores the creative process and some of the most creative people in the world one idea I found very intriguing was that it's perhaps more important to put yourself in situations that lead to creativity than it is to have some innate ability to think creatively definitely recommend this book if you're looking for ways to inject creativity into your projects right now audible is offering my subscribers their first audio book for free when you try audible for 30 days just visit audible.com slash from industrial our text material to five hundred five hundred to sign up so there is one modification I'm gonna have to make to the frame from the old bed that I'm reusing and that is that the old frame had built-in tables this one's not obviously so we're gonna have to cut these down and the frame is just really the width of two two by threes I'll put in another two by three there it will hold two pieces of maple plywood at a right angle that will create the illusion of a thicker square I also reuse the platform from my old bed now if you don't have this I'll leave a link to a video that will show you how to make one of your own out of inexpensive one by fours but since I have this platform I used it as a guide to make sure that I was squaring up all the size of the 2x3 frame correctly I then used screws to attach the frame and this does not have to be pretty at all I just basically hacked this together this is probably because the old bed was one of the first projects I've ever done and if I was designing from the ground up I probably would have done this a very different way but you know I hired the frame so I figured why not use it and I think skinning it was a solution that worked out pretty well at least at the end result the first step of skinning the bed was to mark and drill for dowels in the top pieces so I first laid out all the top pieces of the sides in front then used the right angle tool to mark where the dowels would go and lastly disassemble it and use the doweling jig to drill the holes for the dowels I used the dowels because the 2x3 frame was not perfectly parallel to the ground or square and that could lead to the top boards being uneven with one another so the dowels just helped those boards to line up and be flush with one another to attach the skin pieces to the frame I just I'm going to use pocket hole joiner ease and it won't be visible again so not a big deal and they're really an ideal way to quickly join these large pieces I then use the same black stain and this time I learned to stain before assembling the bread frame which made it easier and then basically made a bunch of big L sections that would skin around the outsides of the bed and give the appearance of a larger beam when they were installed and continuing a theme of just sort of hacking this together I just use screws going up through the two by threes into the plywood frame and I forgot to get footage of this but I also had drilled pocket holes into the 2x3 spacer pieces at the bottom of the frame and use those pocket holes to attach the frame to the plywood side so with that I'd repurposed the old bed into the new bed now I'm gonna go back and walk through all the electronics and that starts actually before the cabinet install so we'll go back in time a bit so I'm using my shaper origin computer vision assisted handheld router to cut out a hole here for one of the outlets that will go on the side of the side cabinet by the bed total overkill but I really liked and wanted to try out the concept of bringing a handheld CMC to the job site to make really precise accurate cuts there instead of having to lug the cabinets to the shop I also use the shaper origin to cut out l-shaped recessed cavities and the underside of the top cabinets that would accept some LED lighting and give a really cool overhead lighting for the Fed to hide the wiring for the outlets and lighting I drilled holes inside the cabinets that wouldn't be seen when the cabinet doors were closed to control the overhead strip lighting I got these black glass faced touch controllers that I think will match the look of the bed really well that said if anyone knows any wall-mounted DC switches that would allow for Luksa controllers let me know in the comments below because I'd like to install it so I mentioned earlier that the shaper origin was a bit overkill for this project of just cutting out the controller so I'm showing here how you could just cut out the holes with the jigsaw and Forstner bit although cutting it out after the cabinet is installed was a terrible idea a hundred percent should have done this before installing cabinets anyway for the Fed side outlets I found these really cool extension outlets which looked and installed just like regular outlets but have an extension cord running down the back so I could thread that through the cabinet and into my existing outlet I then moved on to installing the LED strip lighting in the channels I'd cut in the underside of the upper cabinets so I'm not sure that anyone else is going to have the exact same kind of lighting over their bed but I just want to throw out there is an idea that this would make a really kind of cool under cabinet lighting in a kitchen or even in a bathroom over a vanity so this temporary installation was pretty straightforward but I did have to solder some extension wire from the LED strips to reach the controller and connectors between two pieces so it would fit smoothly around the l-shape in the channel I drilled a hole through the LED channel fed the power and ground wires that I'd soldered on through that hole into the upper cabinet and then used the adhesive tape on the back of the LED strip to attach it in the channel I remember that bow I mentioned in the wall well it actually created some space between the shelves and the wall in this cabinet which I took advantage of to run the wiring through if it had been there I would had to drill some holes in the shelves I then wired up the LED touch controller which is very straightforward there's just a power and ground in and a power and ground out so if the power organ ground out went up through the cabinet to the LED strips and I connected a pigtail adapter to the LED in which could then connect to the 12-volt power source I then went back down to the workshop to cut out l-shaped white acrylic diffusers which will give the LEDs a really nice solid look and I just used a table saw and jigsaw to do this so I first made a cut through at the thickness of the channel and I didn't go all the way through so I left a l-shaped piece there and then cut it out roughly with the jigsaw I then took the smaller L section back to the table-saw really carefully using the micro jig for protection made another cut that again didn't go all the way through but cut it to the same exact width of the channel and since I'd cut the channels with a router the inside corners were rounded and not square and so I just took the same quarter inch radius and marked it with a Dow and used my standards round over the edges to the marsh now one important note here is that before I had cut the acrylic diffusers I had made some test cuts on small pieces to dial in the width so it was the exact same width as the channel and the plywood this allowed me to press fit the la diffuser right in so the LED diffuser almost looks like an inlay with a nice flush fit into the plywood then it was on to making the slab headboard slash wall art that would sit behind the bed now I'd purchased a slab that had already been planed for me so all I had to do was cut it to size and finish it the trickiest part was getting the two sides cut parallel to one another so to do this I just marked a straight line on one side where I wanted to cut it I then use the right angle tool as a guide for a beefy tape measure that I could send straight across and Mark a line perpendicular to the other line I marked and then I could mark a line perpendicular to that and know that it was parallel to the other side then pulled out my track saw to cut along those lines making a second thin pass on each side to make sure that I got a clean blade mark free surface now there were some pretty bad lines in the wood from planing it and so I pulled out my belt sander and gave it a pass with 80 grit to remove those lines to get it a nice smooth surface to start with then pulled out my random orbit sander and sanded it down up to 240 grit then it was time to apply the finish and for this slab I decided to use a matte polycrylic and honestly I think you probably could have used anything on this piece of wood because man did that great and just look at it I mean this piece of wood is spectacular I'm going to love waking up and looking at this every day I then moved over to the table saw set it to 45 degrees and cut some scrap plywood to make strips to use for French please I then used my cordless nailer to attach two of the strips to the back of the slab I made a mistake here because I was using scrap plywood and I'd plan to just have the two pieces extend parallel to one another as if they were one long piece but after nailing in the first piece I realized that extending the second piece straight along from it would actually have exposed the second piece above the live edge so I ended up a staggering the two French leaves [Music] we're in the final stretch here just gonna show you a few things off-camera that I did put in the French cleats on the wall again you see how they're staggered that is because I messed up when I put the cleats onto the back of the live edge slabs I was thinking I was going to put some sort of tile or something else on this area behind the bed or maybe even paint that portion of the wood but I actually decided with the live edge slab hanging there in the maple the light maple I really like the contrast of the black walls so I just decided to stain it with the same stain that I used on the rest of the cabinet [Music] and with that there were only a couple finishing touches left I made a last-minute decision to add some LED strips underneath the bed to give it a cool floating glow and I just used some warm white LED strips and attach them with the adhesive backing I also went back with some hot glue just because in my experience the he sit back even tends to give out and pull all the time I'll have to go back and add a controller for these later right now they're just hardwired in decisions lastly I built a headboard which was basically a square plywood box and stay in the same color put behind the bed in with that the bed was done alright guys so this was a seventh month project in the making and I'm really happy how it finally turned out I finally have a bedroom I wanted at my loft and I hope you guys dig it too as always if you like this video remember to hit that subscribe button hit that Bell button next to the subscribe button so that you get actually reminded when I upload new videos and hit that like button to let YouTube know that you enjoyed this video also remember to go grab your first book for free from audible by going to audible.com/veritasium industrial - 500 500 that's it for this time and I'll see you next time [Music]

Channel: Modustrial Maker

Views: 2,355,805

Rating: 4.9047551 out of 5

Keywords: DIY, modern, bed, diy bed, how to make a bed, how to make, how to build a bed, led lighting, led, led strip, under bed lighting, under cabinet lighting, diy cabinets, diy modern bed, how to make a modern bed, live edge, live edge slab, live edge headboard, headboard, diy headboard, floating side tables, diy creators, woodworking, woodwork, renovation, remodel, remodeling, bedroom renovation, plywood bed, modern bed, platform bed, modern platform bed, diy platform bed, floating bed

Id: GPihxS3LDAs

Length: 31min 9sec (1869 seconds)

Published: Fri Oct 26 2018

Reddit Comments

[u/olympia_gold]

Need For Speed: Underground (Bed Edition)

[u/TheCrapIPutUpWith]

Do you have some more picks of your space? Bed looks fantastic and high-end.

[u/FearlessAttempt]

FYI: Your hyperlinks in the video description are broken. They don't actually link to the timestamp when clicked.