DIY Covered Patio | Building A Roof To Cover My Concrete Patio | P1 Foundation, Framing & Roofing

I'm pretty sure these are deep enough all right so this project is probably the biggest single project that I've ever attempted to do and what we're doing is putting a roof over this patio to make kind of a covered patio space to get away from the sun we love our patio the only problem is that it's all concrete and we get sun from about seven o'clock in the morning until about three to four o'clock in the afternoon and it gets hot out here there aren't enough patio umbrellas in the world to create the kind of shade that we're looking for so we're trying to create a place that has some shade for us where we can get away from the Sun and relax and I think I've come up with a way to do this that's a little bit different than I've seen in my area or some of the ideas that I've even seen on YouTube so I've already started getting the foundation ready and set there's a whole lot more work to go with this project and then even this project is just a small portion of what we have planned for the rest of our backyard makeover so here are the plans that I came up with in Fusion 360 and the things that led me to this design was I wanted the structure to cover the entire patio and actually have an overhang going towards the pool then I couldn't build any closer to the property line on the right hand side of this so I had to match that side of my house and I matched the slope of the Gable that I was attaching it to and then the third thing was I didn't want to have an obstructed view out at the end I didn't want to have a beam like you would have on rafters so I like to go with trusses and then the third thing that kind of makes this unique is the way that it connects to the house it being so much wider than the Gable it has to extend up and over farther leaving this unique Breezeway or Courtyard type of place that I think is kind of really cool but then once I was done with my 3D model I turned this into a set of hard copy plans that I printed off and took to the city to get all my building permits then once everything was approved I actually started this project while we were finishing up the last of my fencing projects that I've been working on and I had this mini skid steer in auger already rented I just rented a larger sized auger 18 inches in diameter and use this to get the rough size of the hole and get any dirt out of these holes that I could the other tool that I rented was this concrete saw that I used to cut out some concrete squares on the on the one side of the patio so that we could get the holes a little bit closer to the place that they actually needed to be everything was going great with these the two holes on the other side were really easy we got down to full depth over 48 inches and then on this side when we were doing these we hit something hard right about 30 inches or so down and that auger wasn't going any deeper so then a week or two later after the fence was done I came back and cleaned up these holes and got them to the proper depth and width that I needed and for the two holes on this side of the patio I found out what that hard thing was that I hit and it was Rock solidly packed Rock and this isn't naturally occurring rock this is something that was built in the construction of my house or something that was dumped in the leftover from somebody else's and it was packed in there I didn't film this because this was frustrating and I it was not a fun process but we got all that out there and we got the holes to the proper size each one of the holes was dug at least 48 inches deep and then 24 inches in diameter and in most cases they were deeper and larger in diameter than they needed to be and I made sure that I dug underneath the concrete a good distance and belled out the bottom of the holes so they were wider at the bottom than they were at the top and that the center of the footering was going to be at the center of the where the post was going to be and then I also made these really quick just so none of the dogs fell in the holes now we're on to the part where we fill back in the hole that I've worked so hard to dig and what I'm doing here is creating the footer uh the footer is going to be 24 inches in diameter or the the width of the hole and then 12 inches thick of solid concrete I thought this was a little bit Overkill but when talking to my city engineer that's what they wanted for the structure of this size so I'm not going to argue with them so to start I mixed up four 80 pound bags of concrete and poured those into the hull in between each bag I moved the concrete around to keep things level I used a piece of rebar to try to get out any air pockets that would be in there and then actually the after the fourth bag halfway through I ended up getting in there and walking on it stomping on it and packing it down I'm not sure if that's a recommended move or not but it's what ended up working for me that it kind of helped me get everything packed in there then I repeated that process mixing up and dumping in four more bags for a total of eight bags then I ended up measuring it at the end checking to make sure that my hole shrunk by about 12 inches ensuring that I had 12 inches of concrete in there and it was the proper depth and then the last thing that I did was I took a trowel real crudely and real fast and just smoothed off the top of it ensuring that my post was going to sit on a flat surface of concrete while the footings were curing I went back to the house and started tearing it apart as minimally as possible just to expose the area where the beam was going to connect and to hopefully try to keep it mostly watertight while we were working on this later that evening when we weren't in direct sunlight anymore I got out my new favorite tool and that's this laser level it's designed to be used indoors but when we're not in direct sunlight you can actually see it outside in this laser line that it's projecting is lined up to where the beam is going to attach to the house and I'm projecting that out so that I can put in a temporary post to put in a string line that'll help me the next day install the two posts that are going to line up with that edge of the house and make sure that everything's where it needs to be the next day I came back and installed the first two posts and these things were no joke these are six by six pressure treated posts and they're 14 feet long way longer than I needed but the difference between like a 12 foot post and a 14 foot post was about three to four dollars so I figured what the heck why not go with a little bit of extra then you know you're not going to run out but definitely having a second person to help you handle these and maneuver them is not the pure weight of them they were just awkwardly big in size and heavy but I ended up getting these in the hole and then started bracing these up and one thing that I did to help was I created these little two by four pieces with screws in them the screws went into the expansion joint and basically created like a little cleat that helped me brace them on the concrete side on the other side I braced them just like a fence post only adding a few more braces just because these things are so big big heavy and awkward uh that I I didn't want these things going anywhere then I was checking these for Plum level in every direction and they didn't actually touch the string line I made sure to keep him about a sixteenth or an eighth of an inch off of that string line so we weren't moving or manipulating that string line making sure that we had a nice true line there and these posts were exactly where they needed to be then again that night I got out the laser again just to double check the locations of these posts to make sure that they're Plumb in line and in the correct location and I thought this was cool you could see the laser lighting up the actual String Line showing us that that string line was right in the correct place and it's also lighting up the edge of the post and showing all the imperfections of how one post had a slight twist to it and wasn't exactly a hundred percent straight the following day the last two posts were installed and this time I had my dad here helping me and that helped immensely having somebody else to help hold that post up and check for Plum while you're putting up the bracework made all the difference in the world and made that so much easier plus it was easier to check measurements this way we checked measurements in both directions in between the posts and then we also checked those measurements diagonally to make sure that they were all on the correct locations in square so that this structure was actually going to hopefully come out somewhat Square then after all the posts were installed I mixed up two more bags of concrete for each hole this was just to go around the base of the post to make sure that we held it in place place then I came back with a trowel and really quickly just sloped the concrete away from the post so that any water that drains here is going to be shed away hopefully from the bottom of the post then back at the house I removed part of the wall sheathing to expose the entrusts of the Gable on top of the roof I marked out this rectangle and then I cut that rectangle out with my multi-tool [Music] that exposed a hole through my roof down to the truss that I'm going to use here in a second and I'm not going to show you how I did it but this is what I use that hole in the roof for I installed my first truss through that hole and attached it to the end truss on the existing Gable what this is going to do for me because I'm not a professional and I'm not getting this done in a week is it's going to allow me to put that first truss in make that attachment to the existing roof and keep it semi-water tight and then also by installing that first truss I could get out my handy laser again and I could find the exact bottom of that truss actually where it is and send that measurement out to each one of my posts and make a location of where my truss would line up on each one of these posts the next day I used that line where the bottom of the truss was going to be that I marked out with the laser I used that as a reference measure down the height of the beam and Mark that on all four sides then additionally I marked down the distance between the blade and the edge of my circular saw and made another Mark all the way around the outside I'm going to use that Mark to line up my speed square and clamp that to the Post and use that as kind of a guide when I'm using my circular saw to cut these posts to height even using the circular saw at its maximum depth it still doesn't cut all the way through the posts even when you go around all four sides so then I used a Sawzall to finish off the center after that I Loosely installed the Post Cap brace just with one nail so that I can move it around later which beam is going to be made out of three lvls each one's almost two inches wide 12 inches tall and 24 feet long and they look heavier than they actually are but it was kind of crazy how each one got heavier as we installed these so to make each beam we installed each LVL individually we found out that putting the first side of the LVL on the ladder then coming back to the other side putting that side on the post and then going back to the other side putting that side on the on the other post and then sliding it into place works pretty well for us we repeated that same process for the second LVL and then once we had two of them up there I used some Quick Grip clamps just to make sure that we clamped them together pretty tight and then I use the framing nailer to attach these things together I nailed them from both sides making sure that they were really well connected then we put up the third LVL and then went back and nailed that one to the other one foreign to do the other side we repeated that same process with a little extra supervision this time [Music] foreign [Music] then at the end I came back and fully attached the post-cap brace with all the nails once both beams were in place I started on one end and I marked out 24 inch centers all the way down the length of that Beam for where my trusses were going to be installed the way that I Mark these are a little bit Overkill I like to give myself a center line and then a line three quarters of an inch to the right and to the left to make sure I know exactly where this thing is going and it's super easy to line up when we're installing these trusses then yet again later that night I came back with a laser and I'm really starting to love this thing this time I'm using it to make sure that my marks for my 24 inches on Center for the trusses on one beam line up with my ones on the other beam and as you can see here I got these things to line up pretty darn close that means that both beams are in line with each other and that means that the trusses are going to be installed pretty darn Square then just to make sure I was doubly sure I I checked it again at the other end of the beam and things looked great out there as well then the next day came the most awkward part of the project or cumbersome part of the project and that was installing the trusses uh you can see I have my dad over here helping me which was was a definite must uh this would have been really difficult doing this by myself but you can see we get the truss up there upside down and then I'm backing up the ladder kind of pulling it as I go definitely OSHA approved for sure then I get that truss up over that Center board that I'm using to attach the top of the trusses together you can see that we slide it along the beam until we line it up with the marks then I'm going to get off the ladder go over and temporarily just use a screw to screw it in place on one side I made sure that I lined up all the trusses really good on our right hand side here and then I went over on the left hand side and got them as good as I could to line them up not every truss is a hundred percent the same I did install them the direct way that they came off the truck so at least they were all in the same orientation then I went back up to the the top of the ladder screwed them into that top board and then of course it was raining while doing all this but I came back and used the framing nailer to make sure that I really nailed these things in place additionally by code each one of these trusses had to be installed with a hurricane strap each one of these has 10 Nails in it so I don't think these things are going anywhere at this point I thought it was a good time to go ahead and backfill the post I probably could have done this earlier but now at least the beams are installed the trusses are installed so the the main structure of the building is attached together and locked in place so I thought now was a good time to go back and fill these holes up I know some of you guys are going to freak out that I'm putting dirt around a post I talk to multiple Architects and Engineers these six by sixes are I believe 0.6 pressure treated rated I can't remember what the number is but they are like water resistant for 40 plus years in ground and they even said that they're going to last longer than that but I did pack the dirt in these really well packed it down every eight to ten inches or something really packed it in and then when cleaning up I definitely watered that dirt in and then over the next few days I'm going to continue to water it and let it sit over the winter to let that dirt fully settle after picking up some more lumber I'm going to be using these two by sixes to create our rough fascia boards but before installing those I have to go back and cut the overhangs on the trusses to length when I ordered the trusses I ordered them a little bit long because I had a feeling that I wasn't going to be either going to be able to install them perfectly or the trusses weren't going to all come 100 perfect and I'm glad I did I went ahead and marked these and cut these with a jigsaw not the most perfect way to do it but it got a good enough cut for us to get them all straight then I came back and nailed these in with a framing nailer each one of these got about 2 two Nails on each truss to make sure that they were held in place and then I installed each one of these boards not necessarily the easiest thing to do by yourself the big thing was that I left these boards overhanging the ends so that I could use those to build overhangs on those ends later before building the overhangs on the ends of the gables I decided I wanted to install the plywood sheathing first so I got out the Kreg track saw figured out these angles for these triangles and then cut them out once I had them cut out I took them up and temporarily clamped them in place foreign [Music] nailer and nailed them in place [Music] since I don't have a drop truss really the only thing that I could do was use 2x6 spacer blocks to build out that overhang and then use the same two by six as the outside fascia piece some of them were nailed in I really preferred screwing them in I felt like that was a stronger way to do things but then I repeated that same process on the house side and then the overhang dead ended into the roof of the house installing the roof decking is when this thing really started to feel like it was coming together and we were making some serious progress here I'm installing four by eight sheets of half inch OSB roof sheathing and I'm using a framing nailer to nail these in place I'm also using h-clips these h-clips are code and the reason I believe we use these is not only to hold the two pieces of sheathing together in between the trusses but it also provides spacing for expansion and contraction one major thing that really helped me out with this was my dad down below and he was pre-cutting everything for me so that I was starting with the correct spacing making sure that I had a good overlap from row to row foreign [Music] [Music] [Music] about a two inch gap on either side this is going to leave a nice Gap at the top so that I have an area for any heat to escape that trust in area and go out the top Ridge vet foreign [Music] now I'm no professional roofer and I don't claim to be and it's been a while since I learned how to do this stuff in college but for me I'm starting off with a layer of ice guard in my area this is something really good to do for homes it's code for a structure like this I'm not a hundred percent sure to be honest but that's where I'm starting off I think it's a good way to protect ice from coming back up underneath those shingles when installing this I'm only taking off the top layer of the sticky part because we're going to have to come back and do something to it later and I'm using cap nails every so often to nail this in place I know because of the angle of the sun here those wrinkles look terrible later on I'm going to be able to get rid of those they're not as bad as they look after the ice guard was on I covered the rest of the roof in synthetic underlayment uh this was a little bit harder to install than I thought uh it was hard for me to keep it straight I'm sure there's a technique out there but I ended up playing with it a few times and ended up getting it straight I ended up getting most of the wrinkles out of it and uh putting in cap nails in most of the places that they said probably used way too many cap nails but wanted to make sure that this thing wasn't going anywhere and was staying in place I think the big thing was that I started at the bottom and worked my way up the way that you're supposed to that way all the water runs off of this and it's going to be super tight if it's 100 straight I don't think it's going to matter and nobody's ever going to see it after the roof was completely covered I moved shingles up onto the roof and that was uh that was really fun moving bundles and shingles up a ladder but these shingles were ordered last year when I had my roof done because of storm damage So in theory all of these shingles came from similar batches or were made at similar times so they all should be 100 identical and this roof should match my roof a hundred percent minus a little bit of sun fading or losing some of the granulets on the main roof here I'm coming back and pulling up the ice guard that I haven't completely stuck down yet because I want my drip edge to be underneath my ice guard that way all water and stuff runs down over top of the ice guard and the ice guard can make a good seal to the top of the drip edge nailing in the drip edge with the roofing nail every two feet or so then on the gables I put the ice guard over top of the underlayment and on top of the ice guard then I installed a row of starter shingles around the entire perimeter of the roof letting them overhang the drip edge by about a half to three quarters of an inch and that really gave me a good straight line and then these have a row of tar around the outside edge which is really going to seal down the edges and that first row of shingles after the starter shingles were in then I did the first complete row on the bottom of the roof yet again it's been a while since I've done this I'm making sure that I'm paying attention to my nail spacing make sure I'm holding the gun at the right angle so I'm firing in the nails perpendicular to the roof and making sure that I'm getting them in the actual nailing strip themselves where they should be there's some thought that goes into this where you're placing your nails and what your offset or your stair step is going to be on the next row so that you're not leaving a nail in the place where there's going to be a gap on the next row I'll be honest with you I worked probably one or two rows at a time going up the roof for the first half yes I use chalk lines to cheat a little bit to help myself keep these straight I took it slow watched my reveals watch the nail gun making sure that I was driving those Nails incorrectly and yet again paying attention to that nail spacing and overlaps then when I got a little bit more confident I started you know really working into that stair step instead of just doing one row at a time I was doing four or five and yet again this was probably the most rewarding part of the roof because you really start seeing some progress and you really start making progress fast and who doesn't love using a nail gun another thing that made it really nice for me is I had my dad yet again down below and I was yelling down measurements to him and he was pre-cutting all of my pieces for me so all I had to do was stand up there and nail he was cutting the shingles and throwing them up to me and they fit like a glove it really made this process fast [Music] on the other side of the roof things got a little bit more complicated to tie into the existing roof and shingles I very gently removed their shingles using their stair step pattern and then I used my overlayment that I left long on purpose and I overlaid it on top of their underlayment tucking it underneath those existing shingles and then just like the other side I used that same process using their stair step pattern and worked my way across the roof I did the first few layers first to make sure that everything was straight and everything was going well and then I started using a more aggressive stair step pattern doing multiple layers at a time this worked out really nice when doing multiple layers at a time or multiple rows at a time you don't have to move around the roof as much and things go A whole lot faster foreign [Music] [Applause] [Music] foreign [Music] I cut off any overlapping shingles just so we kept that top open and we can vent out any heat through that ridge vent and then on either side of the roof I installed about four ridge cap shingles to seal off the ends after that I installed the plastic ridge vents across the entire Roof then I came back and nailed in these ridge cap shingles along the entire length of the bridge cap to give that ridge cap the same look as your roof there are some slight gaps in the ridge cap that this does keep water from getting in but mostly they're just kind of for show and then here's a quick look at the old roof and the way it Blends into the new roof and the way you step flashing to keep everything watertight all right so I'm not proud of this but it's now two months later than the clip that you just saw and not to make excuses and that you want to hear my excuses but with my son starting daycare for the first time in the never-ending streak of illnesses that we've had and then me actually starting my day job of teaching again uh progress has ground to almost a halt I'm still working on this still getting stuff done it's just a whole lot slower than I ever thought this could possibly take and I'm actually kind of embarrassed but that being said I'm still working on this there's a whole lot of work to go and there's going to be a second video that that shows all of that progress I'll try to keep you guys up to get up to date on my Instagram I really want to start utilizing that more but in the next video we're going to be wrapping posts wrapping Beams I have tongue and groove that I'm thinking about staining before I put up there or just put it up I'm working on electrical right now for can lights and ceiling fans we have siding that needs to go on either end I have fascia and softening and then I'm going to have somebody come out and put gutters on and I'm going to dig the downspout lines and so there's there's a a lot that's that needs to go on with this project still and I think it's going to make a good video either really late this fall but probably the first video that I post in the spring first outdoor video that I post in the spring so there's a lot to come if you like the video please hit the like button as always if you want to see this project get finished or any of the other projects that I now can do because this one's done something like decks and sheds and more fences and more drainage and some other cool stuff around the pool I really hope you guys subscribe but other than that I hope to see you guys in another video

Channel: That Tech Teacher

Views: 762,705

Keywords: Diy, diyprojects, thattechteacher, coveredpatio, patio roof, patio, trusses, roofing

Id: 5nqZ00DW540

Length: 27min 13sec (1633 seconds)

Published: Thu Nov 03 2022