Distortion free bead rolling hand made car body panels, Rear wheel tubs. Tips and Tricks #19

[Music] hi this is Trev and welcome to my blog bead rolling have you bought yourself a bead roller you've rolled your first pun like that and then it's all buckled and warped and distorted out of shape and it's really frustrating if this is you and you haven't found a solution to the problem then this could be the video just for you so here are my rusty old wheel boxes I think you can see that they use by date is well and truly expired so I'm going to make some fresh new ones from scratch and this video is going to show you from start to finish how I did it this video is mostly going to be concentrating on the bead rolling on the top panel how to do it without creating distortion so we've got our new piece of metal here and as you can see it's got no structural rigidity whatsoever so we need to roll a bead into it or fold it to give it some stiffness so when we bead roll something this is a typical bead roller here with the set of dies that we're going to use it distorts the material it distorts the material for a variety of reasons mainly it drags the metal in from each side and it also stretches it along the bead particularly in the shoulder area so it's disproportionately stretching along the bead which means that it tries to force the material around the lower wheel as we can see with this thin strip that I've bead rolled this is a pre stretched piece of metal that I be rolled and you can see that it lies nice and flat and the other piece here is one that I didn't bother doing any pre stretching and we can see that it's pulled the panel out of shape just what you don't want to happen so we got our piece of metal here marked out with a sharp and this is where I'm going to be droll along those lines I'm going to use the highest chrome wheel we've got on our wheeling machine to pre stretch the material I'm going to port moderate tension not too heavy and not too light we don't want to be doing a hundred passes but we don't want to veer off the line and also pour an awkward second line in that we've got to try and disguise afterwards so I'm tensioning up the English wheel and I'm pushing the material through not pulling it back on there change sides from side to side if you're not used to using an English wheel this is the easiest way of ensuring that you stick to the line and it doesn't waver off because if you start pulling it back in the other direction and you're not used to doing it you're going to be all over the place one for the back push funds there so yeah this is the kind of result you want to end up with as you can see it's now stretched we're actually going to use the bead roller to absorb that extra material so that lies flat again afterwards so I'm setting at the bead roller here to release the unveil on top of the material to trap it tighten it up till it's finger tight and then we can use a spanner to correctly tension the rollers against each other and you can measure out exactly how many turns you want you know ie one turn one and a quarter one and a half two turns etc and if you make a note of exactly how many turns you gave it then you can replicate it on the next bead that you've got to roll releasing the tension again to remove the panel don't just drive off the end of the panel you can see here that the top wheel is the one with the bead and it's pushing directly on top of the pre-stretched area so that's the way I've gone about it and it seems to work really really well though for a motorized B roller and one that's strapped down too so there we have it on nice tension-free panels their lead nave flat on the table as you can see they're not trying to spring anywhere so in my efforts to keep things brief I realize that I've breezed over too much of the detail so our English wheel setup epic Rome wheel Noah chrome wheel I've used the highest crane wheel available on the lower we're looking at about moderate tension I would say you want to put the material through about 10 to 15 passes you don't want so much tension on it that if you veer off the line slightly you almost roll a second bead into the material you don't want too little tension because you don't want to be passing it through a hundred times to create the stretch required so keeping the material in this position with the mini bead facing skywards we move over to the bead roller so the bead roller set up with a male wheel mounted on the top and our bead facing the male we almost turn it inside out on itself the tension required on the bead roller is probably one and a half to two turns dependent on which model of bead roll you've got try out on some scrap metal first and get the desired results before you turn it on your project little neat little trick here is to use some masking tape to measure out the lengths so that I know where to fold and I'll just line up with the pen line and then I can fold that using the folding machine next so on a long panel is best to use a set square just to make sure that you've got a perfect 90-degree position before you put that fold in so you can use the old panel as a former and a book it really doesn't have to get too much more technical than this guy's but old panels just telling me where the curved section needs to be and then I can use this piece of tube to put a nice radius in it and you can do a lot just by bending things by hand as long as you're careful of course [Music] [Music] now we have it more finished so the rest of the video is I'm going to go back over what we looked at in the hammer forming video I'm going to show you some more hammer forming detail that was missed out of the first video and we're also going to give you a bit of an overview on creating the sides doing some folding as well with a folding machine and basically marking stuff up it's going to give you a bit of an overview really in this video right from start to finish including the painting stages so I've used the old wheel box to mark out our template for the site this template will be used to mark out the steel that the site is going to be made out of pay close attention to the line going directly down the center because this is a symmetrical panel and we can have a line down the center which will be extremely useful for keeping everything in check I'm marking it out now using my washer technique so I can mark out the width of the two lips because we're hammer forming it the inner lip needs to be not as wide as the outer lip because we're going to form it around the curve and the less material that's there the easier is to shrink it so our two sides are all cut out all I need to do now is to put our folds in all folded up and ready for hammer forming she's an electric shear here to correct the panel I'm using the template also to correct the wooden former I gave greater detail in my last tips and tricks I've had to get this to fit accurately so it might be worth watching that video if you haven't already seen it the gange is checking for accuracy so this wooden former is now screwed to the side of the panel on the inside [Music] and the hammer forming I'll put a bit more detail the detail that was missing people said that I hadn't bought enough detail in from start to finish so I'm trying to give you a little bit more of that missing detail I was also quite flattered by one or two comments from people that were claiming that the video was a fake and I'd actually made these panels using a machine and then laid the panel over the top of the wood afterwards and pretend it that I've used it to form the panels so I was quite flattered by that so thanks very much for those comments like I said if you haven't watched the previous video certainly watch this after you've watched this one because it's going to give you more detail about how to do this procedure something I didn't really cover in the last blog I was making the hammer for Marie into a kind of sandwich panel ie sandwich in the metal between two pieces of ply and the reason I didn't do that with this particular hammer forming project was because there are some quite tight radiuses and what can happen I found personally is that the metal the rise up where you're trying to shrink it around the corner and it'll rise up in a way underneath the ply you can exert enough pressure on it to keep it flat that's why I prefer to use my dolly method on panels with tight radiuses if the panel was like a straight panel or maybe maybe radius the other way then I would certainly use a wooden sandwich technique on that I've punished the lip over as far as I want to take it for now and it's come out as well as it could have done really so what I'll do next is I just offer up the top section whilst the wood still in just to make sure that the fit is somewhere near so this is the first trial fit of the two panels and they fit like a glove couldn't have been happier I did go into a far more detail about how to ensure an excellent fit between the two panels in the previous blog I've got my two sections prepared ready to be spot welded together this panel goes at an angle on the ends and the reason they've done this is because there's three holes that are drilled through this panel to attach it back to the vehicle I think this is offset so that the hole on the end doesn't get tangled up with the lapped weld it seemed of job with this one as well so this one's job walled so they all sit nicely on top of the other one so that the lower section will lay flat against the van rear panel I've used many different types of world through primer I've used the copper ones the zinc ones the aluminium ones all sorts of types and to be quite honest with you you're never ever going to eradicate the issue of pummels rust in between but it just gives it a bit of extra protection I think what's more important is that you actually seal it afterwards to stop any ingress of moisture I think that's actually more important than using this product full stop I've used this stuff this time rang because I'm just trying as many different ones as I can this is a kind of edged world through primer what I find that's good with this stuff is that it doesn't scratch off as easy I find that a lot of the zinc based the metal based ones they can scratch off very very easily in this does seem to be more resistant to scratching I would say [Music] so the two sections and I spot welded together are the particular struggle getting these lengths right here across there and there I realized that it could very easily become twisted as I was welding it up so I I gripped it I measured it several times to make sure that the length was exactly the same from there as it is to there so that the panel didn't twist around long enough too much of an issue along here because all I've really got to do is make sure that this panel fits as Fletcher's I can get it along there which means that the back edge are like pretty flat anyway so the next thing I've got to do is turn the panel round and take the template but I've already offered up to the van internal quarter panel to make sure that this fits properly so I just offer it up into the panel and then I can make any little tweaks and adjustments to the edge of this lip before we then go and offer it up to the van just to make sure it's gonna fit properly first trial fit I'm happy with that very happy so the inside of the wheel box has been coated with a product called rust Buster wants who want this is one of the hardest wearing epoxy coatings that you can buy I believe so anyway independent tests have been done on this product and it's coming very much on top what I have noticed with it is that it doesn't like sealer very much so what I always do is I give the metal a bit of a key up at least eighty 180 give it a real good key and then I've thinned it down and blasted it to nice thick coats on there give it plenty of protection and then what I do once it's fully cured is then I seem seal it with some polyurethane afterwards not before and then this stuff then doesn't attack the polyurethane because it's drawing now it only attacks it when you put it on top of it so what I'll do is I'll seam seal this so that no water can get between the sheets of metal the other side has been done with a product another epoxy product called HP body always make sure epoxy products are welke before you put anything over the top the paint won't stick that well to it unless it's been thoroughly keyed if it has been thoroughly key then it sticks really really well but you must get in all the little nooks and crannies so that's just another little tip I would definitely like to lay on you don't let it cure and then blast some it over the top because it just won't stick and it could come off in a big sheet if you're not careful we're all prepped up and ready to go I've seen sealed all the joints or pay particular attention to this joining right here I've wiped it in a wiped it back out again because I want it to look like it's sort of fairly original I don't want it to look like it's full of sealer and all one panel if you get one trying to say you can still see the definition of the panel edge against the other panel coming this way so I'm going to get a paint on next please have certainly come out well enough very happy hope you can see the difference with the sealer line now you can see that this edge is clearly defined now it's painted whereas this sealed edge here looks like it's made the panel into one piece and that's the difference I was talking about well thank you very much for watching I really hope you enjoyed the video and if you did please give it a thumbs up if you got anything to add then there's a comment section down below because lots of people read that and share information in there as well and if you didn't like it well that's not really my problem is it hammertime who when the whammer's competition from the last time around of course the question was what is the new color of my Bedford wheels and the answer is red or orange or orange e red okay a winner will now be picked at random so who won hammer northern monkey we also read yes as the question correctly so northern monkey you're the winner all you've got to do is email me your address I'll get this posted off to you right away my email address is in the video description congratulations to Jeff the last hammer winner I'm glad you're pleased with the hammer gesture dear holding this hammer in front of his camper van that he restored and saved from the scrapyard so I've got another one of these hammers who would like this beautiful planet egg hammer all you've got to do is answer the fairly straightforward question I fit in a non genuine engine to my Bedford van what is the engine I fitted answers in the comment section below and then you too could be the winner of one of trev's famous polishing hammers so the next hammer winner will be announced on the next metal shaping video barring that I give metal shaking videos a rest just for an extremely exceptionally short time so don't get too excited folks don't start panicking just yet and I do still have a few metal shaping tips up my sleeve that I'd like to share with you but what I'm going to show you next is I'm going to cover a few more bases because whilst I've been making these metal shaping videos I've also been packing in other videos in between and the most commonly asked thing is being asked all the time is Trev what gauge method Lee use and that question isn't is simple announcer as you would believe it so that's probably going to be the next question so that it nails that issue for me fair and square on ahead because I keep being asked this over and over again also going to pack in a paint polishing video so I'm going to show you how if you've sprayed something and it looks a little bit orange peeling and you want to make it a little lovely and flat and lovely flat and shiny and perfect and everything I'm going to show you all the processes the odd person they use to polish up the my paintwork I'll share with you those little tips and tricks as well and I'm also going to show you a rust removal remedy that I borrowed off somebody else probably somebody off the internet which has been very very successful for removing rust from small items of bodywork so these are the videos there can kind of come next and then we'll crack straight back in to the metal shaping stuff so thank you very much anyway guys thanks for watching if you'd like to help support the channel you can leave a donation there's a link in the video description but only if you want to help support the channel and I'll catch you next time so bye for now [Music] [Music] [Music] [Music] [Music] [Music] [Music] hmm

Channel: Trev's Blog

Views: 131,533

Keywords: panel, beating, welding, forming, bead, rolling, english, wheel, hammer, body, repair

Id: 2ab0De10w3A

Length: 27min 32sec (1652 seconds)

Published: Fri May 03 2019