Dior's First Female Creative Director: Maria Grazia Chiuri | Inside Dior (Part 2)

congratulations [Music] today what are you wearing yeah are the shoes of course do you buy a lot of tea well it depends it's never enough anyway it's the biggest event of Paris Fashion Week ah the old show we're waiting for the first time in its 70-year history dior's collection is designed by a woman newly appointed creative director Maria grazia Curie what are you trying to say about women today in this world they think that we have to start the game to speak about equality she's at the center of a billion dollar brand spanning clothes makeup Handbags and perfume it's quite impossible to register the formula of the perfume so the only way is the secret we have privileged access to Dior as the Italian designer puts her first collection together in a matter of weeks is it nerve-wracking at this point inside though it's a secret my secret join us inside this exclusive world as we discover the fabulous rocks the psyches of the rich and the courting of celebrities behind one of the world's most famous names [Music] in mid-july Maria grazia-chiore's appointment was announced by Dior fashion boss Sydney toledano now on her shoulders alone rest dior's reputation and its profitability [Music] [Music] she has to hit the ground running to conceive design and oversee the making of an entire collection that will be revealed in Paris fashion week in September I think that's the difference probably about my vision I think is very important that the girl maintained their personality and your friend here with the bums this is an inspiration why not you don't know where comes the inspiration The Inspirations come about everything about the life and that's important he has a bum too you of course Maria grazia has come from rival fashion brand Valentino in her native Rome where she and her design partner nearly doubled profits with their romantic dresses and hugely successful accessories like the cult Rockstar shoes Maria grazia and pierre-paulo together they were one of the greatest success stories of the current ERA of fashion under their leadership Valentino went from being a successful very successful brand into a billion pounds brand from the point of view of being an editor just everybody wanted to wear those clothes so if you're shooting a celebrity on a front cover they were all going to want to wear Valentina because they all look beautiful in these dresses they really knew how to dress women Maria grazia has inherited a highly skilled team she briefs dior's influential makeup Direct director Peter Phillips and Guido Fashion's favorite hairdresser with her vision we want to speak about the women in different ways so we believe it's important to give a young attitude and I saw the girls they look more boyish yeah which is absolutely yeah yeah her mood board reflects the ideas for the new collection her inspiration includes fencing and feminism star signs and superstition the outfits are beginning to come into shape the idea about my first collection is that Dior is not only closer with Mr Dior but also with the other designer and so I use some elements that are come to all uh the New York Heritage yes but with a different attitude yeah and I complete if we want to help me it'd be great not because it's not easy after seven decades there's a deep Heritage at the house of Dior Maria grazia is following in the footsteps not just of Christian Dior himself but the famous names who have previously been chief designer here including e salarong and John Galliano I think that Christian Dior stood so much for a kind of femininity that just doesn't exist anymore I don't think we need a gentle world now the world is tough out there and for Maria Cartier to give to Dio a feeling of what a modern woman not only wants to wear but has to do in the world to go to work to cope with her children to cope with life to go out in the evening that's the kind of designer we're looking for today she's making clothes that will work beautifully on you know a young woman like Jennifer Lawrence you know one of the faces of Dior but I think she will also make clothes that will look beautiful on older women and you think the average age of a luxury brand consumer is 53 she will make clothes that a 53 year old woman is going to look great in see you later thank you to me Dior went out and looked for somebody who was an interesting modern designer and that's who they found in Maria grazia [Music] you know I've worked with many different designers and each designer has their own approach so the first Corporation is always a bit like searching how how to communicate but she's very open in her communication and she illustrates her her vision Peter Phillips has worked with them all from Karl Lagerfeld to Alexander McQueen but now he's working for the first time with Maria grazia on the look for her first show I mean in this case it's kind of a simple and easy brief um there are the sports Elements which she brings into the collection so I like to do maybe Simple Things by enhancing the eyebrows slightly making it a bit more masculine at the same time trying to keep the Elegance of a Dior so it's very solid it's almost like an alabaster skin tone and then if you should turn you can see that I don't know if you really there's a bit of glow on the side of the face I don't know if it captures it use this this is like a powdery effect that you see the shine you see you have this glow another one is for example gel a gel effect you see I get a bit more wet but if you apply it thin it becomes like a glow and that's actually what I put on the side of her face here it Blends in with the skin texture underneath I've got like a pure white like a clown white almost which I'll blended into the skin tone on the nose bridge and on the chin so you kind of get those natural highlights enhanced I just slightly enhance the eyebrow with a very thin eyebrow pencil you can see them here you can see the little Stripes that I put in just enhances them without losing the naturality of the eyebrow can't get more like a bit of a tomboy look it's very detailed yeah quite often it's much more work to make up like this and do like a spectacular splash you have real skills thank you yes I hope so let's spread the word alongside the makeup Department Guido with his team of stylists is coming up with hair designs to meet Maria's brief I'm doing a few different variations of the braid that she wanted in the back of her head so this young lady has uh four braids and there'll be three two one and the kind of where the knot is how high it is how messy it is what texture of the hair it uh is whether it's dry or a little shiny and all those sort of nuances would be something that Marie grazia will sort of pick up on she's very instinctive it's a new adventure British milliner Stephen Jones has worked with the house of Dior for 20 years but how will his relationship with the new creative director work did you like Mary of course in the first question the first the first food thing I spend all the time in this way because I was absolutely in love for this Paper Mario Gotze through the letter and if you look slightly up you twinkle the eyes ah I was completely in love with the first thing I spent all my time with this absolutely bye have a good lunch the choice of Steven's designs for the collection is still not finalized we were talking about fencing and the inspiration for the collection and what she would like to have because she'd never really done hats before we developed this idea which is a little bit like a fencing collar but actually worn on the head and this is a little bit picking up the the quilting from the front of the jacket with the ear flaps but the edges like a visor so we've done in this quilt and we did them transparently like that and also we've done this version in metal which we've been trying some on with this halfway through fitting so I don't really know I never ever think that it's done until the last girl comes off the Runway Christian Dior said Without Hats there is no civilization yeah what do you think of that remark I completely agree with him [Music] upstairs and dior's ready to wear workroom skilled hands are busy putting Maria grazia's designs together known as the putitman or small hands they've seen everyone come and go over the years foreign [Laughter] foreign [Music] thank you this is [Music] tall models will soon be wearing these clothes at the hotly awaited ready to wear show which will launch Maria grazia as dior's new designer at Paris fashion week I like very thin I love a very good [Music] thank you I want to test with the black pants the look with the black pants with Paris Fashion Week approaching dior's new designer Maria grazia Puri still has to take lots of decisions about her first big show which model will wear what and with which accessories Footwear and more important underwear okay [Music] as the fitting draws to a close the studio is cleared of everyone but Maria grazia her closest assistance and two models a new designer at the house of Dior is enough to entice the most powerful person in fashion to pay a visit Anna winter editor-in-chief of American Vogue has arrived for a special private preview foreign will she like what she sees [Music] foreign [Music] the reaction looks positive fashion brands and fashion magazines coexist in a multi-billion dollar industry each dependent on the other for success every year Dior spend countless Millions on placing ads in the fashion press but rather than headline grabbing clothes most consumers will buy handbags shoes cosmetics and particularly perfume [Music] in just three months in 2016 dior's perfume and cosmetic sales leapt by nine percent to 1.2 billion euros [Music] Dior understood that a bottle of perfume or lipstick is all most people can afford so to capitalize on the largest possible number of clients in 1947 he created his first Cent Miss Dior it's still a bestseller as Christian Dior himself realized once you've created the brand you can sell the dream near grass in the south of France Dior still control the same fields of rose and Jasmine used in making some of their perfumes our flowers it's exceptional but these flowers is very very expensive Carol bianzalana is the fourth generation of the same family to own these fields it's a manual picking because we must take only completely open flowers we must pick at a good time in the day it's now on the morning 8 until maximum 12 o'clock for the best the exceptional perfume have you ever been seduced by a man offering you a particular perfume as a gift I don't want a gift for perfume because it's personal choice so difficult to give a gift like perfume a book it's easy not a perfume a perfume yo is your personality it's difficult to make a choice for a person it's a family concern and when it comes round to the Jasmine Harvest it's all hands to the bushes blue Patrol foreign do you in your job have to have a good nose a big one [Music] Dior is Francois de mashi the man in charge of creating their perfumes he is the one who decides what quantity of which flower will work the magic many of the products are sourced from cheaper parts of the world but for the Jasmine from grass it takes 1 400 hours of picking to gather the 7 million flowers needed to make just one kilogram of the Jasmine Essence which goes into some Dior perfumes this lab is where the Alchemy takes place we call it actually finding the right formula is like striking oil and Francois de Machi has done so several times in his 10 years at Dior and before that at Chanel the perfume is very secret that's why we have separate the two Atelier it's secret because it's quite impossible to register the formula of the perfume so the only way to defend ourselves is the secret and so we are maybe a little paranoia about the secret but it's like that under high security the inner sanctum of this laboratory is where the deeply confidential work is done and Industrial Espionage is an ever-present Danger so that's a formula a formula is like a recipe with some raw materials and the quantity can we read that can you show us with it we were feeling too much it's quite secret you know but um Cedarwood lemon coriander gayak wood etc etc and the quantity and that's a perfume are some more expensive than others some are really expensive for instance with Jasmine from grass costs almost 100 000 Euros by kilo that means twice the gold twice as expensive as gold yeah it's quite complicated to grow the adjustment in it a lot of care and the yield is very low it needs more than 700 kilos of floor to get one kilo of absolute absolute of Jasmine it's a product that we use we keep here the product the raw material that we need to make our formula and we have here almost 700 products yeah and here I know yeah it's close because it's our our secret products and we have to open it the lady with the key some products are very fudgy wanna top secret yes um so this is like the Fort Knox of perfume yes no way wow so even you don't have a key only comments would you say that Aroma is going to be erotic well absolutely don't forget that we are mammals and we are very linked with the smell to smears from others can send a lot of messages you know in some moment some erotic smell are very very good smell and and sometimes you can't control yourself because you smell that and it's inside yes we are we are animals back in Paris preparations for Maria grazia's Big Show continue one of Maria's most forthright critics has arrived to see her work a 20 year old daughter raqueli [Music] they spend a lot of time with my daughter she's my muse of course also because fashion is about love and the best love that I have it for my son and my daughter of course the major daughter influence your collection absolutely yes Kelly has eurostared in from her studies in history of art at London University she's come to give her mum support and to share in the excitement I haven't seen much yeah actually I'm very excited but from where I can see like nothing for yourself no no don't worry I know you I miss you so cool thank you [Music] so cool I know I want to show the Soleil the sundress is one of 64 outfits that are almost ready for their Paris Fashion Week unveiling it looks amazing it's so fun I like it honestly I really like it when you see your mother's Reflections yes are you critical always I always I always tell the truth like I'm not interested in lying to her so if I don't like something I just say it to be honest that's very important all the time I ask her please give me your your opinion and honestly I think that helped me to have a right Vision because sometimes the fleas around you could please you but she's also inspiring for me because you know I see the new generation that has different approach because she looked everything with the fresh eyes she has not the same reference that I have so I think give me open mind because she said honestly I like I don't like some times with the age you think too much about the things and that's not good sometimes but Raquel honestly is she's I don't need to lie because I don't for her [Music] it's the day before New Dior designer Maria grazia's first show she's having a final inspection of the location it costs upwards of 20 000 Euros a day to hire the famous Rodan Museum but Dior will only be using it as a grand entrance to the main event they've built their own massive theater in the gardens behind the hugely sought after embossed invitations have gone out and a thousand guests are expected to fill the space these are dishes for the new collection and it's all got to be kept pristine even Maria grazia herself cannot Sully the perfect patina of the Dior gray painted floor this is a house light the pre-show not so white no no exactly which you can see it's quite warm I mean I don't like the thing stripped to its simple Essence with pine blocks as benches and pine boards for runways it probably doesn't matter that the benches aren't padded for those thin fashion editor bottoms this whole enormous investment is all for a show that will last a total of 10 minutes on the fencing room in one of Maria grazia's favorite films this Conte's the innocent mother and daughter are relaxed enough for our Kelly to tease Maria grazia that her first show might be her last message if thank you thank you [Music] the only few moments of Peace are in the intimacy of the short drive back to the studio [Music] time cancel it [Music] [Music] [Music] and then [Music] with her big show only one day away Maria grazia goes straight back to the studio where's that public I mean she has another visit from an influential magazine editor stephanotonke editor-in-chief of American fashion magazine W has known Maria grazier since their student days together in Florence she had the dark look what we used to say you know a little bit like Garth a little bit crazy we were both kids in Florence in the early 80s we were fashion animals so you would go from New romantic to Bohemians than to braggy kind of stuff like a Culture Club this I think is a it's a great opportunity and I'm happy that she took it almondo [Music] Mississippi so I go back to the moral responsibility of fashion and fashion designers I think that's something that I really think you have the power you have the influence but you can talk to people what do you think Maria I think that anything that you do as a huge that you are responsible what do you do about the issue of too many skinny girls honestly sometimes the people forget that in any case we work in fashion and the word mankan is a specific things because some girls asking because they're really skin in natural way other no it's more important to be stronger than to be skin probably that you have to yeah that you have to be fit more in a gym that you can change the message and you can have a positive message there is not only one story someone as Maria grazia puts the finishing touches to tomorrow's Big Show another branch of the Dior Empire jewelry prepares to open an expensive new store [Music] while all those rich clients are in town jewelry director Victoria de castellan hopes they'll take a shine to one of her shiny baubles is it important in selling jewelry for clients to see the pieces themselves in a way of course but we have clients who are just buying without seeing the jury yes does that surprise you I think that's a very eccentric way to buy and I think that's very good way to buy it means that people are what can I say sit down [Music] extravagance it certainly does in this shop where some of the Pieces cost over a million euros [Music] at their industrial Beauty complex a couple of hours south of Paris they all make products that are a little more affordable here they churn out a never-ending stream of potions lotions and lipsticks foreign [Music] basement of the beauty Laboratories they test more and more ways to profit from our apparently endless desire to look younger for longer circulation is foreign [Music] Paris Fashion Week the day has arrived for Maria grazia to reveal her first Dior collection she has had only 10 weeks to prepare for it the world's fashion media are fascinated to see if she can pull it off changes yes three for my daughter ten she's the same she's posting so you have to give them different things another hugely influential fashion figure especially in the vital new markets of the East Angelica Chung editor of Vogue China gets a sneak peek we are speaking about equality yes the same opportunity for men and women because I have a boy and a girl I want that they have the same opportunity but with some human it shows more confidence I can see there's more Whimsical feelings about it British model Ruth Bell is opening the show there's one big difference between her and the other models in the lineup Ruth we're just talking about you're only the only girl with no brain why I want braids but if you try I mean there's nowhere to put a little braids don't mess it up last season I had no hair so I would never never ever go into hair and this is my first show this season with her so I have to actually go and get something done you've had a shaved head I did completely shaved and how did that work professionally amazingly yeah it's kind of uh the reason why I'm here yeah yeah hey look who's behind you you the other big difference about Ruth is that she has an identical twin May is also modeling today in this business how long have you been here we went to Paris for [Music] I thought it was like my mum thought he was trying to sell us something so hurried us away and he sort of dropped his card in our backpack yeah without us knowing and then like exactly a year later we found the card emailed the guy turns out it was totally legit like really nice guy and we were apologizing profusely for being really rude to him how old were you yeah mean when we got scouted 16 when we got signed and I asked the implied question how old are you now we don't look 20 but I promise you we're 57 we just ate really well now in this business uh you're not young we've pretty much a retirement it like hurts me every day I never thought about it like that but thanks thanks for scaring us that our careers are nearly over foreign preparations are being made backstage out front the world media and the Thousand VIP guests are in a fashionable frenzy of anticipation [Music] well just watching because we want to enjoy the show but it's a new designer from Dior and we are very excited to discover it I believe it will be absolutely wonderful what makes you think that just because I trust and someone outside the Rodan Museum the rich the thin and the fashionably face lifted assemble for the hottest show of Fashion Week where are you from Moscow the old show we are waiting something special something nice backstage the models are ready for the show except one who has only just arrived to have her hair done there was a girl that passed out at a previous show and now she's sick and so she will not be joining us here and I have taken her out there Runway veteran Julia Nobis has been drafted into the show at two hours notice that's my fittings which I guess now will be rescheduled until after this the VIPs start to arrive the lower ranks through the pack of Paparazzi at the front gate but the vvips are invited to enter through a side gate with high security and selected photographers Kate Moss of course a Chinese star with her accompanying press pack and avoiding photographers and with never less than four beefy bodyguards the most important VIP of all dior's owner France's richest man Bernard Arno who has led straight to the back door Rihanna Natalie Portman and backstage the last minute touches to Maria grazia's Creations the 64 models flown in for the occasion so exciting to see all the flows all the girls they've transformed these beautiful young women and braidless Ruth has been chosen to lead the whole parade I just did Bruce did you what did you do gave her like an 80s Vibe didn't mean I I did a little I don't want to mess it up it's like it took ages ages and it's like I'm aunties everything is ready is it nerve-wracking at this point inside though it's a secret my secret [Music] The Collection says a number of different things about the Dior woman today because there wasn't Just One Look [Music] there are the tarot card dresses you know Dior was a great magical thinker she certainly believed in lucky numbers and lucky symbols so I think she picks up on the power of magic [Applause] [Music] foreign there was the fencing section which I suppose presents or suggests the idea of a woman being strong and being powerful but also being deaf and being Swift and then there was also this section that reimagines the Dior codes of tailoring which includes the tuxedo jacket the bar jacket [Music] smile did you spot yes [Music] how does Maria grazia's first show compared to dior's first show with the new look of course they're totally different and if we were to see the new look today would it look so new no because fashion is about reinvention it is about change Maria grazia's first show does draw on the Dior Legacy the Dior history the Dior language whilst also looking very new [Music] [Applause] Anna winter tries to make her usual quick getaway [Music] I thought the show was very feminine and very delicate yes so I'm very proud as an Italian girl a girl and an Italian thank you it's wonderful to have Marie here and to have a woman adore it means so much to all of us what do you think about the feminist slogans on the T-shirt I love the feminine song and I'm all for her Revolution how many of your hats were used I think we used about seven or eight we added one just at the end so I definitely remember that's it yeah yeah that's him incredibly talented and a lovely person the fashion world is notoriously lavish in its praise today even more than usual reactions are so positive I'm very happy do you think there's reactions are sincere I think so I tell you I have some experience now with the business so they always tell you it's nice it's fine but you see during the show I think I got a lot of positive reactions within minutes Maria grazia is being proclaimed the newest Star in the Dior firmament [Applause] wonderful fresh new with a lot of energy a similar to what we really needed and protected by tight security the ultimate boss Monsieur Arno how was it was wonderful and she is so bright and it was Soldier so it's a terrific successful can you tell whether it will be a commercial success I'm sure fantastic no problem out of stock very soon I'm happy because I did a good job for myself that's important I very feel well with my cautions because I'm very serious women and I think that the company like you gives a lot of job but many people and so the people like me that was in this position as a huge responsibility or especially in this time [Music] foreign [Music] changed the face of fashion creating an Empire from his south of France retreat his blueprint for a brand using headlines of fashion to sell a range of luxury goods and cosmetics has been copied by many despite recession and economic upheaval the public appetite for luxury continues to grow [Music] the emperor may be dead but his Empire lives on [Music] foreign

Channel: Luxury Living

Views: 599,930

Keywords: christian dior, maria grazia chiuri, haute couture, dior dress, high fashion, dior runway show, dior model, Inside Dior Documentary, History of Christian dior, maria grazia chiuri dior documentary, maria grazia chiuri first dior collection, maria grazia chiuri pronunciation, maria grazia chiuri interview, maria grazia chiuri dior, christian dior song, christian dioro, maria grazia chiuri valentino, maria grazia chiuri 2024, christian dior documentary

Id: BxI_VPMkwOQ

Length: 46min 58sec (2818 seconds)

Published: Thu Dec 29 2022