Dining Table Bench Seat With Storage

I'm Mike Frankton welcome back to my shop aka the boardroom so in this video I'm gonna be building a bench seat and it is one piece in a larger Commission and as with all jobs I start by unloading some materials you start with a shot of my working drawings for small projects I don't put a ton of effort into these really just some drawings with basic dimensions clear as mud right alright so here you're looking at the brains in my shop and that is a clipboard that I keep all of my notes receipts and drawings on and this may seem like a small thing but it's not I put the clipboard on a piece of quarter-inch melamine and that's important because as you can see in this shot I can balance the clipboard in my sliding table saw and also on the fence on my chop saw and this really helps me stay organized when I'm cutting out parts so after breaking down a couple of sheets of plywood it was time to apply some solid wood edge banding which I do with type on three and some homemade spring clamps and if you're interested in how I made these spring clamps check out my channel and you'll find a video title to built-in cabinet TV console and floating shelves and I talked a little bit more about the process of making these and I know that you can buy this type of clamp but I felt like that was a little cost prohibitive I ended up making a hundred of these clamps for a little less than 150 bucks so after the glue is dry I'm using a lipping planer to flush up the edge banding to the surface of the plywood and in this shot I'm doing what's referred to as a climb cut and that's basically where the direction of the cutter is forcing the tool back at you and it's a little bit more dangerous to use the tool this way but it does give a cleaner cut can I hold the tool in such a way that as I make the first pass it doesn't quite cut all the way flush then I come back and use a little more pressure over the cutter to flush things up perfectly and here I'm using my biscuit joiner with a special fence attached to it to flush trim the ends of the edge banding this biscuit joiner is made by lamella and they call it the top 20 I don't know why they call it the top 20 but I think recently it was replaced by a newer model that's the top 21 and now I've moved on to cutting the joinery for the two cases that will make up the structure of this bench seat electus and all of the inside surfaces prior to assembly all right you're witnessing the first actual help I've received from the shop apprentice and he came up with this idea all on his own here I think this was overkill but I assembled these cabinets with biscuits and glue some staples and I followed that up with some screws and if you don't know that is referred to as the hat-trick of cabinet making here I'm attaching an additional fence to the biscuit joiner and it helps balance the tool when you're using it in a vertical orientation or when you're using it on narrow stock and I attached the bottoms in the same way with biscuits glue screws and nails so if you've noticed the two interesting looking lanterns over my shoulder and you want to know more about how I built them take a look at my channel and you'll find a build video so if you're wondering why I built this bench seat in two halves the reason is it's a little over eight feet long and building two independent boxes and joining them together seemed easier than trying to splice plywood and here is my method for marrying the two halves together biscuits and glue anytime you're joining two boxes like this the chances of everything lining up perfectly are basically zero so I add a little chamfer and it just creates a small shadow line that kind of hides the seam between the two boxes next it was time to glue and clamp the two halves together a couple deep reach clamps and plenty of glue and this thing's solid as a rock once the two halves were built and joined together it was time to turn my attention to building I guess what will refer to in this video as a face frame as I mentioned earlier the piece is a little more than eight feet wide so I was able to order ten-foot material here so that the face frame can be one piece and I don't have to do any odd splices so the flip stop on my chop saw station only goes out to eight feet so here's how I deal with cutting longer material and that is I just make sure to hold them tightly together and cut them both at the same time and we're going to do the same thing for a layout I make sure the pieces are lined up on the ends and make the marks on both parts at the same time use the edge tech sanding discs to clean up all the inside edges prior to assembly so when I'm gluing pieces together that are going to be joined with biscuits I like to make sure to get a little bit of glue on both sides of a slot I think that's really important to getting a good connection and for this kind of work there really is no better tool than a good biscuit joiner they're fast they're consistent and they're easy to use it doesn't really take a lot of thought when using a biscuit joiner to get very good results and the resulting joint is very strong and one light pass on each side through the wide belt sander just to clean up any small discrepancies in the joinery all right now it's time to cut the miters for the two side pieces and the front piece was back to the edge tech just to clean up the top edge before gluing all these parts to the case so I also chamfer the scene between this front face frame and the box all right time for some more biscuits I'm guessing you're sensing a theme at this point but in this case I'm really not using the biscuits for strength using them for alignment during glue up sure does make glue ups less stressful when you don't have two pieces slipping around on each other here I just have the side-pieces temporarily clamped in place and i find that doing this helps line up the location of this front piece before committing and nailing it down once the front piece is clamped and glued in place it's real easy to come back and adjust the side pieces ever so slightly and glue and nail those in place as well and here I'm just adding some plywood strips that will act as the feet these will also act as the support for the base molding that's going to be wrapped around the bottom and since I'll be attaching the base molding to these strips I wanted them to be aligned perfectly with the front face and since this bench seat will be sitting on top of wood floors at some point after I'm done with the build I'm gonna attach some anti skid rubber feet all right now I'm working on the back of the bench and this will be pushed up against a wall but even still I wanted to cover up the edges of the plywood and doing this will also cover up the screws as well as the seam between the two boxes that I've joined together all right at this point the box is basically built so I decided to turn my attention to building the lids so you might be wondering why I chose to move on to building the lids rather than attaching the base molding to the box and sanding and routing and things like that and the reason for this is drying time I knew I needed to edge man the lids so I wanted to get those clamped up and drying as quickly as I could and keep the project moving forward so I milled up a chunk of lumber and ripped off a few strips so in my opinion I think that the jointer and the bandsaw should be very close to each other and I say this because I do as much ripping at the bandsaw as possible and I'd like to use the bandsaw because it creates a little bit less dust and it is much safer than the table saw so for edge banding door parts or face frame parts this is kind of my standard operating procedure to bounce back and forth between the jointer and the bandsaw and I'm clamping this up with a jointed face against the edge of the plywood and the bandsaw and face will be sanded later alright now that the edge banding is drying it's time to turn my attention back to the main box and I give it a quick sanding prior to attaching the base molding and I do this because it's just much easier to sand that surface than it would be to sand up against the edge of the base molding once the pieces were cut to length I could glue and tack them in place if you find yourself watching more than one of my videos I think you'll notice that I have a handful of tools that get used all the time and these mitre clamps are one of those tools really like them they help lock my door shut and I use them on most projects so when possible I like to leave my moldings long and then trim them off later and I find this to be real convenient because then you don't need to worry about the miter cut and the length of the piece you just worry about lining up the miter and then cut the piece to length later alright just fitting the last of the edge banding for the lids once the edge banding was dry enough I could use the lipping planer once again to flush everything up next it was time to deal with some hardware so I get these hinges from Rockler and I think they're called like a torsion hinge and basically what that means is there's some friction in the knuckle and it prevents the lid from slamming it actually kind of prevents the lid from closing under its own weight you actually have to actively push the lid closed and this projects going to be in a house with a couple of little kids so I wanted to make sure that the lids weren't going to be chopping off any little fingers I'm using a spacer and a jig to locate the pilot holes for these hinges and I'm also using a VIX bit which is a type of drill bit that helps Center a pilot hole since people will be sitting on this I wanted to make sure that the lid was touching the case all the way around so here I'm just routing out the thickness of the hinge and if you ever find yourself routing on a very thin piece of wood I find that clamping a second sacrificial piece will really help balance the router this tool is known as a center punch and it's very much like a Vicks bit but instead of having a drill bit it just has a little punch and a center punch is a nice alternative to uh Vicks bit here's a nice close-up of a Vicks bit and you can see there's a spring-loaded drill bit inside that cone shape which makes sure that you drill centered in the hinge hole and here's a center punch same thing except it just leaves a mark as opposed to drilling a hole and this is convenient if you don't have the right size fix bit for the screw that you're using now it's time for a few finishing touches just adding a round over here to the top edge and it's always good to vacuum a project prior to finishing and then it was time for some primer I've been asked a few times about my spray setup and it's a fairly simple setup I have a 5 horsepower 60 gallon air compressor I run the air through an air dryer and into the spray gun and I use a different spray gun for each type of material that I spray if there's enough interest I can put together a video on my process for spray finishing so if that's something you'd like to see let me know in the comments section below my finishing schedule starts with two coats of shellac based primer and after the second coat if any area looks a little thin I'll throw a little extra primer on it at that point in time when spring water-based topcoats as I'll be doing on this project it's very important to get a good primer base for two main reasons first if any moisture from the top coat seeps through the primer base it can cause grain raising and second moisture behind the primer coat can cause adhesion problems all right now it's time for - quick pro tips 1 stir your water-based material about twice as much as you think you need to and second you want to run your material through a filter and of course here I'm just showing off my awesome shop built filter stand and this is my process for giving my right-hand bone spurs and carpal tunnel so if you didn't pick it up from the can the top coat that I'm gonna be spraying is Sherwin Williams chem aqua and it's described as a waterborne lacquer and here's the reason I like to run all my material through a filter for the most part like to work from least obvious face to most obvious face so on this project that means I'll start with the inside then move to the back then the sides and then finish off with the front and on the lids that means doing the bottoms first and letting them completely dry and then flipping over and doing the top so I start with a light first coat and I do this to introduce as little moisture to the surface of the wood as possible I follow that up with a good sanding and then I come back with a second heavier coat and when and where possible I like to let stuff sit for several days before touching it just to make sure it's fully cured so after a few days drying time it's time to add some non-skid non-marring feet so that my beautiful piece doesn't ruin the beautifully brand-new wood floors in the house this is going to be delivered to for any larger project with a lid I don't think that there is anything better than these hinges they really have a nice smooth feel to them at some point the customer is gonna have two cushions made for the top of this and they're gonna be attached with Velcro as I mentioned in the beginning of this video this bench is just one piece and a larger Commission and the next project that I'm going to be working on is a dining table so stay tuned for that build video in the end I was really happy with the way this turned out it's a simple project but it was still really fun to build

Channel: Mike Farrington

Views: 440,328

Rating: 4.910223 out of 5

Keywords: carpentry, woodworking, fine woodworking, sherwin williams kem aqua

Id: j6-VxNjkPXA

Length: 19min 0sec (1140 seconds)

Published: Tue May 01 2018