Did Adam Ondra Really Lose The Olympics?

the official rock climbing Olympic debut was in the summer 2021 Olympics in Tokyo and it was pretty hype four Sports will be making their Olympic debuts at the Tokyo games karate skateboarding surfing and Sport [Music] climbing pretty cool right rock climbing finally getting the respect it deserves except not really the the event kind of sucked to be honest I I don't mean to be that guy but everybody's thinking that the event was terrible underarm to overarm to squeeze in it would be significant these finger holds tiny and they bend their toes underneath to try and get that almost extra dynamism the entire event was a [ __ ] show you had iconic professional climbers Legends and then you had this guy who the [ __ ] is this I don't even know who this is I mean it doesn't matter he won but with the help of advanced technology generative Ai and my Mass brain I have recalculated the scores of the last Olympics using the official International Federation of sport climbing scoring system you know the one that actually works we'll get into everything that went wrong with the Olympics including the scoring and subsequently how I fixed each issue starting with the biggest issue speed climbing you see in traditional climbing competitions having lead climbing and bouldering the primary two disciplines for competition mushed together in a combined format actually works pretty well you simply do 100 points for each format and 20 200 points total you combine your scores out of 200 Whoever has the most points wins pretty simple but the Olympic Committee was like listen we already put your lame ass sport in the Olympics all right we at least want the cool one in there right the one where you climb really fast it looks crazy false start from Duffy he goes first false start we have seen we want that one and normally you think it was a fair compromise right just throw speed climbing into the mix everybody's happy but the problem is there is no way to score speed climbing I mean I found a way don't worry I mean I figured it out but there was no way for them to score speed climbing they don't have the big brain like I do they don't have the generative AI the advanced technology so they took this beautiful perfect scoring system and threw it in the [ __ ] trash and instead they decided to do like whatever place you get in each event you multiply that place by the other place and whoever has the lowest score at the end wins they turn rock climbing into [ __ ] golf so I not only corrected the scoring system for the entirety of the Olympics so we can see who won but also I decided to redo the scoring without speed climbing to see who actually climbed the best with like actual rock climbing so we're going to start with the women's competition first because it was much less controversial people really didn't have anything bad to say about it except the scoring system was dumb but it seemed like the right people ended up in the right place but there was one problem that I noticed while making this video while redoing the scoring and one athlete got [ __ ] hard really hard and it was Jessica pills so when we look at the scoreboard we can see Jessica pills got sixth in speed fifth in bouldering and third in lead pretty unremarkable scoring right it doesn't seem like she really got screwed over that bad she didn't plays very well but if we stick to the scoring system set in place by the Olympic Committee but just take out speed climbing we can see Jessica pills actually would have gotten fourth place without speed climbing now I know a bunch of you were thinking so what she she's still didn't place what what what are you getting at why you sing over Jessica pills so hard first of all [ __ ] you I don't need a reason second of all you'll find out in a second if we were to take the bouldering and Lead result and score them using the official ifsc scoring system you can see that Jessica pills would have gone from Seventh Place to second place now granted this is still without counting speed climbing but if we throw speed climbing into the mix we push it back in there we can see that she would have gotten third place meaning that with the fairest scoring system possible Jessica pills should have gotten on the podium she should have gotten third place she got seventh now we're not going to get into the scoring system just yet and how I did the math and rescored all these things but these are the final results for the women's using the new scoring system and you can see uh y has like double the points of everybody else you're probably like what the [ __ ] is going on ignore Yan's scores all right if we graded the Olympics on a curve y would have taken first second and third place now to find the reason why Jessica pills got screwed over so badly we have to take a look at the bouldering section here you can see that there are three women in the finals that are all within one point of one another this is because the way we score bouldering in competitions is 25 points per Boulder four Boulders for 100 points point total the first attempt on every Boulder is free every attempt after that it's going to cost you all right negative 0.1 points per attempt and the only reason this point penalty exists is in the event of a tie where like say two people both top all four Boulders and end up with 100 points and you'd be like okay one of them topped all four Boulders in four attempts the other one topped all four Boulders in five attempts so they used up one extra attempt so their total score would be 99.9 therefore taking second place and not to get into the nitty-gritty of this but this literally only affects a tiebreaker scenario like it would take 50 plus failed attempts on the bouldering section for this to affect your placement at all so what happened to Jessica was you had three competitors her included who were all within one point of each other they basically all tied competed exactly the same in the bouldering section but one of them had their score multiplied by three and Jessica had her score multiplied by five so even though the three of them performed almost exactly the same on the bouldering section they got completely different scores and then Jessica went on to stomp these two in the lead section but it didn't do [ __ ] because she was already destined to get seventh place so to summarize the women's Olympic finals we can look at our final scoreboard in first place we have yanya gber which big [ __ ] surprise you could throw acid in her face she'd still make the podium not a huge jump here but in second place is a Kion nuchi who was originally in third place so she actually earned second place and the big shocker is with the combined format the fairest scoring system possible Jessica pills takes third place now you might be thinking to yourself what a [ __ ] show right this thing seems like a complete cluster [ __ ] that's not even bad all right we haven't even gotten into the bad stuff yet that's just the women's final people aren't even complaining about that let's get in to the men's final what can I say about the men's Olympic finals that hasn't already been said about your mama it dry depressing overhyped and dumb as [ __ ] now this men's final had a stacked roster right iconic names like Adam Andra yakob schuber and tamoa narasaki and none of them lived up to the hype but before we continue getting into the Abomination that was the rock climbing debut in the Olympics a quick word from this video sponsor RNA for those of you that don't know runna is a rock climbing apparel company that also makes the world's greatest chalk mag dust is consistently rated year after year as the world's leading best rock climbing Chalk in my opinion now anyone who watches this channel knows I talk about rugy RNA sorry I talk about runna in their chalk all the time mostly because they pay me too but even before they paid me to I did an honest review before I knew anybody who worked there before I knew anything about the company ranked every chalk and this was by far the best chalk and that's actually how I got sponsored by them uh full honest opinion though uh no jokes aside or all jokes aside everything like that this is the greatest chalk that exists and now not only can you get the greatest Chalk in the world but you can also get the world's greatest chalk bag the Church of dinology chalk bag has just been dropped it's covered in dog hair it's actually a chalk bucket I misspoke but still if you're a fan of the channel and you need a chalk bucket and you need chalk head to the rungy store get a chalk bucket get some chalk Church D chalk bucket we also have T-shirts I'm not wearing it right now just imagine this logo right here on a white shirt that's what it is Church of dinoy gear chalk best Chalk in the world click the link in the description below with every purchase of a church of dinoy chalk bucket you get free mag dust I'm not going to lie even though I am biased that's a pretty pretty solid deal you get free mag dust with the chalk bucket I mean they're not going to leave you hanging look you get the chalk bucket you got to put Chalk in this you get free mag dust this is the bundle right here that's a pretty sick deal anyway pick yourself up a chalk bucket pick yourself up some mag dust and let's get back to the video it's time for a quick recap we start off with speed climbing coming in last place is yakob Schubert big surprise there a guy who doesn't give two shits about speed climbing takes last no big deal coming in sixth place just ahead of yakob is Nathaniel Coleman followed by Colin Duffy and big surprise here ad aandra coming in third place was Mika moam in second place T and narasaki neither of these were that shocking these are both the big dogs right the big threats coming into speed climbing but the big surprise first place is Alberto hinz Lopez this is the guy I was talking about before and uh spoiler alert this turned out to be kind of a big deal so next we move in to the bouldering section starting with Boulder number one the slab Boulder first up is Alberta who does manage to secure the Zone hold but does not end up sending the boulder followed by Nathaniel Coleman who flashes the boulder yakob Schubert flash Callin Duffy flash Adam Andra flash second attempt Timone araki Flash mik mo flash basically everybody flashes this Boulder except Adam MRA who got it in two tries and Alberto hinz Lopez who didn't send it at all moving on to Boulder number two the dino Boulder Alberto is up first he sticks the dyno on his sixth attempt but is unable to top the boulder next up is Nathaniel Coleman who sticks the dyo on his second attempt and eventually on his third attempt is able to top the boulder as well next up is yakob schuber who does eventually stick the dyo on his fifth try but is unable to top the boulder he also has this pretty nasty fall he's kind of funny sorry aob he's kind of kind of a funny fall next up is Colin Duffy who sticks the dyno on his third attempt but is also unable to top the boulder followed by Adam Andre who is unable to do the dyno at all this is important it comes up later the last two once again being Tamo and arasaki who sticks the dyo on his second attempt but is unable to send the Boulder and mikam who flashes the dyo but never ends up sending the Boulder so quick summary everybody except for Alberto sent Boulder number one and nobody except Nathaniel Coleman sent Boulder number two and now we move on to the third and final Boulder Boulder number three I already said the third Boulder God damn it and now we move on to the third and final Boulder this thing [ __ ] this thing for those of you that didn't watch the Olympics this Boulder was way too hard Boulder number three everybody got the Zone on their first attempt and nobody topped it so everybody got the exact same score on this thing I heard people speculate that it's like v14 which I know you're like Pro climers claim v14 not in 4 minutes they they don't so here are our final placements for the bouldering section as you can see Nathaniel Coleman easily secured first place being that he was the only one that was able to top boulder number two in second third fourth and fifth place we have mik maam tone nasaki Colin Duffy and yakob schuber all of them are within 0.5 points of one another which also will be important later because as you can see their placements don't reflect how close to each other they actually were they all had the exact same like they all topped and zoned the exact same amount of Boulders but in slightly different number of attempts and in sixth place is Adam Andra since he was the only one that wasn't able to stick the dyno and in Seventh Place coming in last was Alberto hinz Lopez as he was the only one that did not top a single Boulder that's right the rock climbing Olympic gold medalist didn't top a single Boulder in the bouldering section and finally we have the lead section I'm just going to Rattle these off really quick up first was Tor narasaki who got to hold 33 out of 45 next up was mik mm who got to hold 23 out of 45 after him Nathaniel Coleman who got to hold 34 out of 45 after Nathaniel Coleman we have Adam Andra who got hold 42 out of 45 Alberto hinz Lopez at hold 38 out of 45 Colin Duffy at hold 40 out of 45 and one competitor left yakob Schubert now at this point the Olympics are almost over right we've been through so much we went from speed climbing to a terrible bouldering session to the lead wall yakob Schubert is climbing on the lead wall he's getting close to the top at this point Adam mandra is in first place everybody's stressed out they have no idea where they're going to place they are they going to get a medal we don't know all we know is that Adam Andra is in first place until yakob Schubert passes where Adam Andra got to and actually ends up topping the entire lead route now you're probably thinking oh my God Adam Andra is in first place this guy passes him tops the route bumps Adam Andra down to second place and takes first place for himself if that's what you're thinking you're stupid and you don't know how to do math everybody knows if you're in first place in a competition and somebody passes you you get sixth place that's right Adam Andre got bumped from first place to sixth place and then you would think that guy that knocked him off his throne to take first place would also or be in first instead but no yakob Schubert actually got himself third place I'm starting to think that the Olympic Committee is not a group of mathematicians so now let's take a quick look at our final scores for the Olympics in first place we had Alberto HZ Lopez followed by Nathaniel Coleman in second place and yacob Schubert in third now is the moment you've all been waiting for the official rescoring of the Olympics to see who actually should have won there's going to be a lot of math here just so you guys know so if you just want to skip to the part where we talk about where people placed I'll put time stamps in here it's going to cut right now and then go to when I'm done talking about all the math but anyway let's get into the scoring so we're actually going to start with lead climbing and work our way backwards it'll make sense in the end but anyway the way lead climbing works is you have around 45 holds on a lead route right the first six holds are just to clip in right to get to your first clip so hold number six when you finally make contact you clip in and you get hold number six is is one point if you're wondering why the first 11% of the lead wall is only worth one point it's because you climbed to v0 to get to the first clip all right it doesn't mean [ __ ] hold 7 through 15 or one point each meaning that once you get to hold 15 you've secured 10 points hold 16 through 25 are two points each meaning that once you secure hold 25 you've gotten 30 points holds 26 through 35 are three points each meaning that once you secure hold 35 you've gotten 60 points and holds 36 through 45 these are the big do these are four points a pop meaning that hold 45 is worth 100 points this is the official ifsc scoring system by the way I did not make this up this is how they score lead climbing right this is how you get your 100 points the higher up you get on the wall the more points you get it kind of makes sense so now that you know how we're going to score the lead section we're going to get into the bouldering section this is where things get a little [ __ ] all right it's this is kind of wild but anyway typically as I said before there are four Boulder problems in a competition all of them being worth 25 points a pop 100 points total 1/3 of the way up each Boulder is a bonus worth Five Points 2/3 of the way up each Boulder is another bonus worth 10 points and 3/3 of the way up which we call the top is 25 points now this is where we run in to our first God damn it now this is where we run in to our first problem there were only three Boulder problems in the Olympics not four so if we do 25 points a boulder we only have 75 points total meaning it's not as valuable as the lead climbing thankfully there's an easy fix for this each Boulder is now worth 33333 repeating points but this now creates a new problem that the bonuses are worth too little now 5 and 10 points isn't very much out of 33.3 repeating points so another fix I guess would be to take 20% Which is the first bonus hold and 40% which is the value of the second bonus hold and just apply that to 33.33 3 3 3 3 3 3 3 3 3 3 3 3 3 3 3 3 and this would be all well and good if it weren't for the other big problem which is that they didn't have two bonus holds they just had one zone hold so how are we supposed to score that one zone hold if if we don't have the two bonus holds so this is where things get complicated this is where we have our first score break this is where I'm going to be splitting into two separate scoring categories uh to for the entire Olympics okay basically since the Zone hold is halfway down the boulder problem like right down the middle and the two bonuses are 1/3 and 2/3 of the way up why not just split the difference and instead of 20 or 40% we just say that the zone is worth 30 % of the value of the boulder which in this case would be 10 points but then I thought this seems too low right 10 points total for the zone or 33.3 repeating points for the top that's a pretty big gap so why don't we do 40% instead and make it 13.3 repeating points there's a lot of math going on all right so God this so much so much math I basically did all the math every scenario every outcome using both of these scoring system systems we all [Music] right be back G hey what was that M forward in time to view alternate Futures to see all the possible outcomes of the coming conflict how many did you see 14, 65 how many ruin I'm going to be 100% honest it was not worth the time there was one slight little part what one little scenario where two people flipped by one place that that was it that being said this is one of two point splits that I do meaning that there are four total Point outcomes that I created and they are consistent across the entire board there are two times that two athletes are within one place of each other across all these different points of meaning that my math is much more consistent than the stupid [ __ ] ifsc Olympic Committee dum dum brain scoring system oh God okay now we're moving in to the speed climbing section hold on to your butts so scoring speed climbing or having it in here at all is just weird as [ __ ] it was such a dumb idea the way they do speed climbing is in a tournament bracket format which you can't score right there's no real way to score a tournament bracket now obviously The Simple Solution would be last place gets zero first place gets 100 and you divvy up the points uh in a linear fashion amongst all the other athletes in between and you know what I did that 16. 666 repeating points per athlete per place outside of last place and if you guys didn't think I took this video seriously now you know just how serious this actually is now this is where our next Point split comes in because I thought it was really stupid that getting last and speed climbing would get you zero points and that getting first would get you a 100 points first of all none of these athletes are professional speed climbers they're all professional regular climbers so who's to say that their performance warranted them getting a 100 points to get 100 points on lead you have to top the entire wall to get 100 points in speed you just have to not fall now some of you might not agree with me on this but what I decided to do was take the average of last place for both bouldering and lead and the average for first place for both bouldering and lead and make those the bottom and the top of the range for speed climbing and divvy up the points in a linear fashion amongst all the athletes in between now I did do a little [ __ ] with it I'm I'm not going to lie but basically what it came out to was so nice so nice mathematically it was basically last place gets 30 points first place gets 90 points and it just worked out that there's 10 point increments right in between I swear it just worked out that way it wasn't because I was tired of doing the math it worked out that way okay okay so now that you know all the math and you know what the two different scoring systems are and now which so it's having four scoring systems with combinations of all of them it's time to get into the results the results are absolutely wild I know when you hear all the math it sounds like ridiculous or like I'm just doing some weird [ __ ] but genuinely this is much more fair and accurate to their performance than the actual scoring system they did like they did not do these athletes Justice at all just so you guys can see before I get into it I have so many notes on this I have a chart uh for women's and men's all this [ __ ] like that like it's crazy so without further do the final Olympic standings are coming in seventh place mik mam consistently no matter how you Blended scoring systems or which ones you picked mik always comes in last place which might seem a little shocking right I mean this dude got third place in speed climbing and second place in bouldering he seems a little weird d to come in dead last right but you have to remember he was part of that pack right that pack of dudes that were all in the middle uh in the bouldering section that basically all got the exact same score so him getting second place in bouldering was fair but it wasn't a sub substantial lead his second place put him 0.5 points above sixth place and on top of that he barely and I mean literally just by the smallest margin possible made it halfway up the lead wall now this is where things are going to get juicy right things are going to get a little spicy here coming up in sixth place second to last we have our silver medalist Nathaniel Coleman now this one was pretty shocking to me as well because when I was doing the math I was like this makes no sense Nathaniel Coleman got first in Bow bouldering like if he got first in bouldering there's no way he's going to come in sixth place but you have to remember the only reason he got first was cuz he got a top over a Zone on one Boulder which is great and all but it's like a 20-point lead which 20 points can only get you so far and I mean this in the nicest possible way trust me but nethanel Coleman got absolutely pooped on in the speed climbing and the lead climbing you kind of forget that when you see how well he did in bouldering but he didn't do too hot on the other ones coming up next in fifth place we have another one of our medalists yakob Schubert now this one might seem equally as surprising as Nathaniel Coleman right he' got first place in lead climbing so it's like once again how does he come in fifth place if he got first in lead but you have to remember he got dead last and speed climbing kind of kind of balances out the first in lead right puts him smack dab in the middle and then fifth place in bouldering kind of pulling him even further back to the the the the poopy side poopy side of the leaderboard and this is where you can clearly see how the Olympic Committee scoring system heavily favored getting first place in event which you might say maybe you like that maybe you think that's a cool system that first place in bouldering first place in lead and first place in speed each got a medal which seems like maybe was the point that they were going for now me personally I think that's stupid because the whole point is it's a combined format that you have to do well and all if you get first in one thing it doesn't mean that you should be able to get zero points com in dead last in another event and still deserve a medal because you got first in one of the other events you're supposed to be good at all of them which brings me to our next competitor coming in fourth place and the ACT actual Olympic finals is Colin Duffy now originally Colin came in dead last which is dumb as [ __ ] because Colin performed pretty average in everything right and by average I mean amongst Olympic contestants but still he pretty much consistently placed right in the middle so why why would he be all the way in the bottom it's CU their scoring system makes no sense I mean if you think about it Colin got the third highest on the lead wall being beaten by yakob Schubert and Adam Andra two literally the best lead climbers in the world were the only two that were able to beat him not to mention in bouldering the only reason he got fourth place was cuz he was part of that giant cluster the the man cluster that we talked about where everyone got the exact same score so even though he got fourth he basically tied for second and then he of course performed slightly below average getting fifth place in speed climbing which is why he's brought down to fourth place now it's time for our Podium placers these are the athletes that won the medals the best of the best and this is where things get a little complicated unfortunately second and third place all comes down to which score scoring system you use if you decide to use the 0 to 100 speed climbing scoring system or the 30 to 90 if you prefer the 0 to 100 speed climbing scoring system then in second place the silver medalist is tamoa narasaki followed by Adam Andra in third place that's right Adam Andra and taraki both should have made the podium not only that but if you use the other speed climbing scoring system the one that I think is more fair the only change it makes across any of these combined scoring systems the only change is that Adam gets second and tamoa gets third that's the only changes in scores that happens at all across all these so whether you disagree or agree with any of my scoring systems they are all completely consistent no matter how you mix and match them except for the speed climbing scoring system swapping Adam into MOA for third and second place and by far the biggest surprise of this entire thing is that no matter how you do the math which I kind of kept this to myself but there were actually eight lists total but one of them was completely useless so I just cut all four of those options no matter how you do this math doesn't matter what you do every single time Alberto hinz Lopez takes first place in the Olympics now I know a huge amount of you are probably shocked or at least I like to think so if you're still watching you're probably shocked right everyone's like just wanted confirmation that he didn't deserve gold right there's a lot of [ __ ] talk online about Alberto hinz Lopez and how he won Gold even though he didn't deserve it hopefully this puts a little bit of that to rest because he genuinely did win gold no matter how you spin I mean he did perform extremely consistently across all the disciplines I mean he got first place in speed climbing which it's not his fault that speed climbing is in the Olympics so if we are counting it then he took first place and on top of that he got fourth in lead climbing being beaten only by Colin Duffy who was only beaten by Adam and yakob so he was right in the middle and obviously the elephant in the room is that he got last place in bouldering right he came in seventh out of seven in Boulder and he didn't top a single Boulder which obviously to me is kind of silly that somebody who couldn't top a single Boulder wins gold but you also have to factor in the fact that him not topping a single Boulder put him like 20 points behind second place because nobody was topping [ __ ] and I figured now that everybody knows the official placements and where people should have placed uh we might want to look at how people would have placed if speed climbing wasn't in the Olympics but we did the official scoring system because if you think about it this is how it's going to be this summer right the Olympics are coming up this summer and they're going to have lead and bouldering combined without speed so we can actually get a real look at how everybody would have placed in this format coming in third place our bronze medalist in the combined format is Nathaniel Coleman that's right without the drawback of doing poorly on speed climbing Nathaniel Coleman actually climbed very well he did very average in the lead route and got first place in bouldering so getting third place makes perfect sense in second place our silver medalist in the combined format we have Colin Duffy Colin Duffy got screwed over the most I think by speed climbing being in the Olympics either him or Adam Andra because he climbed very well he was in that pack the man pile once again in the bouldering and he got third in lead climbing so he did very well I mean in this official scoring system that the ifsc scoring system combined format he beat Adam Andra and tamoa narasaki and finally in first place in the Olympic combined format our gold medalist we have yakob Schubert I literally went out of my way to make this entire video because I remember watching the Olympics thinking it was the dumbest thing ever that yakob Schubert did not win gold to me it was so obvious that he out climbed everybody else like just by a crazy amount I mean obviously I'm a little biased because when you do something cool like top the lead route and everyone's freaking out it makes you look stronger than everyone else but he was stronger than everybody he did better than everybody else the only reason yakob got bronze and not gold was because he sucked ass on speed climbing which just makes me like him more I'm being honest so for those of you that want a good idea of how the competitors might place in this up coming Olympics maybe you think you know yakob wasn't going to do very well cuz he got bronze last time well now you know he actually got gold so if he's going into the lead in bouldering he is actually the favorite in the lead bouldering combined format I don't know if they have like [ __ ] DraftKings for rock cling or Europeans do do Europeans gamble is gambling legal over there is anything legal over there I don't know what you guys do over there put your money on yakob Schubert all right so some final thoughts uh the scoring system absolutely stupid I don't know if I've said that yet terrible scoring system the that uh like one less attempt on a Zone on a boulder problem is equally valuable to getting 20 holds higher up on the lead route just makes no sense it's so stupid and also Jessica pills I mean going into this I honestly didn't even think I was going to look into the women's because I was like yeah the women's was fine nobody nobody you know had any issue with the women's y obviously won it was pretty obvious but uh I'm glad I did because you know everyone talked about how Adam seemed like he got screwed over a bit which as we can see with the final result he did he should have gotten second place the same exact thing happened to Jessica pills she got second to last just like Adam did when she should have gotten bronze realistically this stuff does bother me though I really I take competition and like fairness really seriously I just think it's something worthwhile as a human being in this life to you know have fair and fun competitions I think they're fun I think they're cool I think they give you something to admire about humans and when we're stupid about it and we don't do it right I think it's just dumb I feel like at the beginning of this video I was like cracking a lot of jokes being all funny and then as it got more and more Technical and I started getting more and more heated it just became like a mathematic rant anyway that's it hey I got nothing else for you that's all that's that's everything I can't think anymore my brain is fried man I'm I'm done I got flies flying around in here CU I crushed an apple in here earlier and uh they're mating oh that's that's cool

Channel: Climbing Stuff

Views: 92,858

Keywords: Rock Climbing, Bouldering, Olympics, Competition, Real Winner

Id: g3YZgaYB1ZU

Length: 29min 22sec (1762 seconds)

Published: Sat Jul 06 2024