DEFEATED! Tow Lot Bought 500HP Mercedes CL55 AMG Sat For 7 Years

so I bought this cl55 AMG at a tollot auction local tollot closed down I bought five cars this is one of them unfortunately it's from the state of Wisconsin which is corrosion Central at least that's been my experience and the roof is corroded this car is aluminum I don't have a key it's been sitting since at least 2016 and um she's a little rough I don't know that this car is necessarily worth fixing it's definitely a good parts car for what I paid for it it was cheap 1,200 bucks it's got good brakes on it m113k Supercharged V8 I don't know if it runs I can't even get the hood open so now I'm going to remove the E which is the ignition and I'm going to take that over to my buddy's shop and we're going to program a key for that and I'll bring it back back we'll see if this thing can come alive if I can even figure out how to get the hood open all righty there is the Eis or ignition we're going to take this over to my buddy's shop get a key program for it that's the next step so I'm over at my buddy shop Spartan Autoworks and we have that Mercedes E on this crazy Contraption here and we are going to read some data from it so that we can program a brand new aftermarket key Eric us through the process okay so what we're going to use here is vbd uh progue to read theis so we can save all the passwort calculation when it comes to 215 220 230 this the best way to do it so we're using a click and go uh from LA carch and you have to get the appropriate adapter you can also use this on the im608 as well um which requires an appropriate intermediate adapter so we're going to put this in the click and go or the the is and the click and go we're going to assemble the VB diog with the adapter and then we're going to set up to read we've got it all connected and now we're going to read some data out of the E okay so we got our settings over here verified we have power to our VV prog because that's what we'll need for this particular uh read so now it's going to read it's going to unlock the chip lights oh I missed it you get it okay so now it's all now it's all read out so now we're going to save this file and we're going to have to put it into vbd you could use uh cgdb there's a couple different programs you could use but now we're going to put it into vbd IMB to make the key and calculate the password now we've loaded up vbd which is what we're going to use to make the the key itself so I'm going to set the key into vbd imv we're going to load our e file which is the hex or hex file we just read which is right here so we're going to open that so now it's going to show us our keys and our key hash so there's already four keys programed to the car so we'll just add key number five so we are going to I'm just going to go ahead and make all these Keys uh not that it really matters but we're just going to go ahead and prepare the key file and then we'll come back and show you how to actually burn the key now we have our key file made we're going to go to read and write key we need to identify key make sure it's a cleared key so it's brand new key a brand new aftermarket key we're going to load our key file so we're going to come down here to key5 v51 open we're going to rer key writing success identification key there it is now this use time some that really doesn't matter now we'll reassemble the E and tach it on the bench real quick all right so we got our new key we got it hooked up to our test test Gateway here plug it in as I drop the key uh we're going to plug it in good to go all right fire up the car so how's that for making a key in a minute or less that's great well it's 900 p.m. the kids are in bed and I'm up here at work because I refuse to be beaten by this Hood This Hood doesn't have fists but regardless I got to get this thing open I had my guys drag it in and put it on the rack so that I could at least get underneath it because this hood latch it will not let go and yes I know I could cut the hood the hood is valuable I could go through the headlight that's worth some money and the fender everything here has some value so my goal here is to get this hood open without damaging anything it may be impossible but we're going to get the hood open one way or [Music] [Applause] another well now this is the first time I've been underneath this thing and she's got some cobwebs and some Rust and a hole in in whatever Shield this is yeah oh what is this a leaking ABC shock no way that doesn't happen it's fine it's parts car fine still got cats on it so that's good those were once were very expensive but what I need to do is get through this jungle of cobwebs and junk I've kind of taken some of this apart already but not not enough to get anywhere so now I'm going to lower it down a little bit we're going to knock the wheel off of it we're going to take the inner Fender out and we're going to see if we can get to where we need to get to ah very nice that was a concern of mine is that wheel wouldn't come off they do that you know is that enough I've already yes that did not help me I mean it kind of helped me I'm going to go up a little bit I don't know if we can get through this or not it's going to be tough so I'm just looking at how tall I am or lack thereof and I need to get right there so this is going to be um an ordeal it's going to be fine I mean we'll get it open it's just a matter of what survives and what doesn't and I suppose I could take some more of these brackets out this one could come out easily but that's not going to help me let's pull the lower splash guard down so that I still don't have enough room I am going to wear my safety glasses because you never know it could be a bunch of rodena up here that's a lot of uh a lot of ick I got to get this out of the way what am I doing sometimes I don't even know a I regret that decision oh well it'll sweep up it's crusty under here so I got to get my hand up this looks like I've got an ABC line oh there's all kinds of speeders up there subframe is kind of in the way fans definitely in the way but I think I can get this line out I can get some movement on this line right here I think I can do this whether I can un unlock that latch or not that's uh that's another question okay okay how far can I get H it's not very promising it's halfway up the fan oh we are we really running into some problems here I am so looking forward to this what if I go oh man this is I don't have small enough arms for this this job and I thought we were on to something let's look at this a little bit different way all I'm going to try to find an access point to the cables I don't know if that's going to be possible or not but we're going to try don't need that I don't know if I can get my hand up yonder or not we'll find out I can't feel a thing I didn't think this was going to work but I had to try it I think I'm about uh a few inches off here I can can feel oh there's a there's some stuff nothing of any kind of importance that I can open that or pull on that cable with so we're going to have to uh yeah we're going to have to cut yep let's get the tools okay well we started cut no I'm just kidding Let's uh let's move the camera so I don't ruin [Applause] it oh we got smoke coming up from Up there [Music] okay hopefully there's nothing too important above it blue I need you I don't know if that this is going to help us but I do know that we are going to try it oh boy there's a harness Right Above It great placement all right we'll be all right I hope I'm sure it's nothing major yeah that was right into the harness neat well I'll have to fix that but here's our cable and there's the box where it goes from one to two so if I just yes I really tried hard to figure out where I was going to cut uh is unsuccessful clearly but it's nothing some butt connectors can't fix you want to be gentle waa okay I see the cables they look bad see if we can break this box did that pop it no way no I didn't pop it I know what you guys think I just ruined this car first off whoever parked this thing and didn't come back for it they ruined it second no one is going to fix this because I'm going to destroy it getting the hood open yeah don't go back back in your home don't do that here I know what to do there now you can't go back home that felt wonderful all right so I don't know which one's which here two cables I think this is the most work I've ever gone through to get a hood open I think it's this cable right here we have to break that into pieces I don't think I'm any better off than I was another problem is I don't know which one's which so so we don't have that to contend with okay that's an all that's left is this nub oh I'm moving the car in an unsafe fashion did that do it I don't I doubt it no it sure didn't I was hopeful oh come on this is tough well one cable broke and it feels like that was the cable I needed oh my God it's winning make sure we get this real tight on here this is almost a lost cause here guys but I don't give up that easily please that's not going to help us can I see anything from the hole I've created though I can see the area of the Lash can I get my hand in here without cutting it no this is going to slice me up like Edward Scissor Hands we don't need that what a great design I mean there you can't get the hood open if you don't own the car so that's nice I'm probably in the arena I could also try to go in I guess do the grill the grill is not in the best shape and I really hate to cannibalize any other parts I guess if I push this harness out of the way I might be able to open this hole big enough to get my whole hand in there I guess that's the next step all right oh I cut through an AC line we didn't need that hey at least there's no freon in it could have been bad look at the size of the hole now see if I can feel anything and the goal here is also to not cut myself oh I feel where it attaches Let's uh let's make this hole bigger a little bit oh there's an AV who put an ABS pump here I didn't do that oh man we are we are so close all this just to get the hood open oh I think I can I think I can do this but it's going to be real dumb is there anything down here no I'm going to open up this area all the way down to about [Applause] here let's see so much room but did it help me I don't know guys I think it helped all right we're going to operate strictly off the Feld it's not a really good angle for either of my arms unless I go nope nope maybe if I laid across the hood and then I couldn't pop it see the nice thing is the Mount the ABS is mounted in this these rubber pins if you push up really hard you can get them out of where they're supposed to go it's sealed the latch is sealed who who did this unless there's some something I can chame a screwdriver into who designs this stuff and also why do I still want one let's try some stuff all right I've I've really done some damage here I think I'm getting pretty close all right there's the sheathing from the cable let's try to pull on the cable again I think I'm just going to have to keep prying on it I'll try the cable one more time there's no way that's it no W it's dropping rocks I see the L moving oh come on let's go get something to wedge into that hood all right we're just going to wedge this trim tool ow that didn't feel good that would just be too easy what Incarnation is happening I'm moving the latch I can see it yeah yes yes where is the release it's right here oh okay we're going to just uh let that sit and simmer drop this car down what a disaster that was so it may be hard to see but you can see I had to open up the core support I used a really long saww blade and I carefully avoided the ABS pump motor and then I was able to get to this bend the the latch back at least the the part that holds the cable that was broken and then if I pull on this and pried on where the uh loop or whatever the hook is on the hood that's how I was able to get it popped what a fight okay first time this Hood's been open in years oh she's crusty but the hood the hood stays up this little what a pain okay uh yeah where do I start definitely looks like uh five old mouss has been in here hopefully hasn't been tuned on too many things and hopefully this thing will start there is should be a place to put power under here is a jump point please so it's pretty dusty and dingy but nothing's taken apart it's missing the lid here I wonder why and boy is she Rusty so let's see is there anything that I can use behind here uh nope so now it looks like I get to pull the floorboard well not the floorboard but the there like a panel up here and I think I have access excuse me there I think I have access to the power wire the battery cable behind this ah yes I see the battery cable so I'm going to spend a minute and get this apart so that we can uh have access to that cable all right I've got this peeled back you can see the junction block you see this car power up it all come on do something spark there for a second this around this so that you can't do this oh we have dash lights stuff's happening I don't know what it is let's see if we can pop the truck no that would be just too awesome all right well I'm going to go get the key and and the ignition and we're going to get that plugged in see if we can power this thing on I've got our key with ignition I've got two connectors well it seems to be unhappy well I uh I got it reconnected and look at that 143,000 Miles now I don't know if the ignition turns sorry if this is dark ignition still does not turn well at least I know the miles I still want to get in the trunk this will do it doesn't sound like anything's happening negative neat all right I've got my uh programmer here we're going to see if we can get it to wake up the Eis module which is the ignition key and let us turn it S type 221 also not what this is this may not work sometimes we just got to try stuff that's not working okay so we're a little further now I've got my Power Probe hooked up to power we're going to go over and apply 12 volts to one of the terminals on the E which is the ignition switch and see if this thing comes alive let's see if we can't give power to terminal 15 I doubt this is going to work still can't turn the ignition but stuff's happening Fan's running oh look at all the dust stuff's unhappy hopefully my uh little incident with the harness isn't causing any problems let's see oh it's angry One Headlight Works fan works clusters lit up I don't know if I can get it started with the Power Probe that might be an ordeal oh it says no miles so we got some problems yeah well I'm not sure what my guys sacrificed to the trunk opening deities but they got the trunk open without destroying anything I don't know what they did but the only thing that was actually in here that really helps us in any way and doesn't help us at all is easy access to the battery terminals and the batter is dated 6 of 14 so that'll give you an idea of probably how old this or how long this car has been sitting I don't think there's very many 9-year-old batteries still left but what we're going to do next is we're going to test for all the powers and grounds at the Eis and hopefully we find a problem that we can easily Rectify okay doie I have uh everything connected I've got a jump box in it I think this is the one from the car we're going to be able to back probe this I hope this is pretty tight quarters let's find a good ground I have this is my favorite Power determining device all right I've got that's three two I do not have power at terminal one I have it at two and I have three and then I don't know what terminal four is and doesn't look like five is used so let's go look at the wiring diagram all right terminal one is well it's terminal 15 that's a it's terminal assignment one but they call it terminal 15 I'm missing that there's a starter relay like just a fuse so we need to see we need to go to the right front fuse relay module say right rear of engine compartment see if we have power right here and if it if we do or if we don't either way we're going to check this fuse fuse 29 is 20 Amper the fuse that we're chasing is in here but I don't see any 20s which is uh alarming everything's a little crusty in here as a matter of fact I don't really remember taking the cover off of this but maybe I did I did bring a bunch of extra fuses I see something that's a little suspicious right here uh that's a destroyed looks like a 10 amp or at least that's what it was oh that didn't go the way I planned I see why it's destroyed looks like somebody tried to get it out and it is um it's fused well there's half of it I don't know what they used to try to get this out but it doesn't take that much effort okay so that was a red fuse which is a 10 amp and I don't really want to put another one in because it was blown this just goes straight for the fire and put a 20 in there I have no idea if that's it's supposed to be before we go any further I'm going to check the rest of these fuses to see how they look just do a quick Vis on them I don't see anything else popped there might be a five amp right here that's a little fishy that one just fell apart all these fuses are just trash they're just corroded this clearly has some moisture in it this box might be a problem too will you just there I I'm going to try some unconventional things here I mean conventional for this place but unconventional for your regular repair I've got the jump box attached got my Power Probe attached and we're going to take the Power Probe we're going to apply it to terminal 15 which wakes everything up going to see if we can do that real quick all right the Dash is powered on fan is powered on see we go there we go fan is angry we're going to ignore that loud noise and what I've decided to do is be the starter relay now I've already checked the oil there's a dipstick right there so we're going to pull the relay in and it died what happened let's go find out oh it it shut this terminal down so let's try that again see if we can turn this back on I hope I don't have to be the relay and turn this back on because I don't have long enough arms for that all right we're powered back on there goes the fan we're going to go around the back side so it's not quite so loud I bet you the same thing's going to happen but you know it's worth a shot here we go nope okay let's try something else it might be hard to see but I've got the button zip tied down on the Power Probe this is a bad idea don't try this stuff and now we're going to try this again probably let the smoke out of something but it's fine it's cranking that's promising doesn't sound so good though let's uh give it a little ether cuz I don't think it's getting any fuel okay so this is going to be the best way to do this I think I think there's some hoses and stuff down here I don't know if I can take this all the way off or not oh there's a clip okay so there's one crank case hose that's fine we're just going to set that aside we're going to open the throttle body spray it in hopefully this thing barks off a little bit or maybe it doesn't we got to try it that's probably good but that's better all right I'm going to go power everything up all right time to be the starter relay it wants to it almost fired let's load it up with a bunch more fuel no I needed those come back no I think there's still some circuit that's just unhappy but the the engine is uh not locked up so that's a good sign now I made it Angry probably got to let the starter cool off for a minute or not no we're killing the battery but I think it'll run but I see some not so great looking things that is probably going to keep me from trying much harder let me uh shut this down and I'll show you what I I'm looking at that's uh that's bad that supercharger pulley is is not good you should never see the ball bearings exposed there should be an outer cover as you can see it's starting to come apart it's actually come apart it's pretty much gone so I don't know how much more I want to mess with this um I don't really have the the an extra pulley I don't have the tools to try to fix this this might end up being a uh a compression and leakdown test at a later date but I really want to hear it run we're going to try a little bit few more things to see if we can close the fuel pump relay at the same time all right contact that sounded good it wants to start the fuel could be bad too there's so many variables right now I don't think it's getting fuel all right we're going to tear into this this is the fuel pump cover and we're going to get this removed and see what's behind well that's pretty messed up well I can feel that there's some this is warm this has some temperature in it which means that it's it's been seeing some voltage some power I don't see anything leaking but I bet you this thing's locked up it's going to Little Couple Taps to the Hammer while all power is applied and we may have fuel pressure again we're going to try that okay now I'm going to check the fuel pump to see what it sounds like with power I've got my uh Power Probe hooked up to my jump box I just heard something make noise so I don't know what that was I'm going to go by color here that should tell us which one's power yeah okay so this one's ground because Brown on on uh German cars or on European cars is Earth typically speaking so now it is shorted okay let's get uh the fuel pump to for later this is going to take a little bit of uh effort here but it'll it's going to be fine guys nope that's not how we're going to do it this alligator clip whoever designs these things clearly only cares about one thing and that is safety and that's not what we're after today we are hammering on a fuel pump while giving it voltage that is not what I'm safety is not what I'm interested in come on it might be too far gone guys I think the pump is dead it has perished it's been down for too long no this is not working out too well it was worth a shot I called my buddy Eric and asked for some help and he brought over this tough book which has all of Mercedes uh diagnostic equipment at the OEM stuff so I've been in here uh moving stuff around trying to take a look at where um the can system is all the connectors I need to check there the reason for that is the the reason the key won't turn is it's got a breakdown in the can system so something's pulling the system down I'll kind of show you how I figured that out or how that was figured out so on your Eis module this connector here has three wires that are required uh to be connected for the key to turn the ignition these are literally just outputs for voltage input and output for voltage that's your normal ignition switch wires but here you've got a power a ground and a Kline and we we tested for power we uh took some little pins that I have here and in my meter and we have power we have ground which only leaves the Kline which is part of the network and uh then we try to connect the scan tool to it and that's what we're going to do right now system diagnosis can trouble codes there's the codes that I saw earlier shorten can wires can wires are interrupted well sorry about the rolling bars guys but this is oh that's not what I wanted to do here is the x36 connector that's the can connector that's on the left side of the dash that's the one that has the ignition switch according to this so X3 6 left front Sam right front Sam steering column module there we are Eis easy s control unit that's the ignition switch so i' I think I've identified which can wires are coming from that so I'm going to isolate everything else we're going to hopefully get rid of this one this one we might leave the instrument cluster I don't I'd have to pull every single one of these to figure out which is which I think we can leave the Gateway module I can figure that out and um but we're going to try to delete all these and bring them back one at a time and hopefully we can turn this key when we isol which one is the problem so this is how I did that I went I got two of these disconnected you see right here I I found uh which color wire is the Kline which is this wire right here that red striped brown wire and then I found that same color wire on this connector for the ignition switch and then I did a continuity test between this and then I did the this bus bar essentially is what it is a can bus bar and then I did this one on its own and then I did this one and when I did this one we have continuity like so the things I'm starting to notice is that this connector does not like to fit in this this can connector it just does not like it get out here like leave hey uh so I don't know if that was the problem originally when I took this all apart to get the Eis out to program a key I think I disconnected all of these which I don't I know I I tried doing this with this disconnected and then I reconnected it but I don't I don't understand why I can't get this one back in so I'm going to play with this a little longer and see if we can get that back in because if this wasn't seated that could have been a problem all along okay we've made some more progress and uh I called my buddy Ed and he helped me out so I did I did test continuity from the high can wire which is this wire right here on the Gateway module and when I had all of these plugged in to this bus bar I had continuity with both sides so it was shorted so one of these is shorting out the can system so what I'm going to do is I'm going to do a continuity test between each of these I'm going to try to isolate which one of these is the data link connector which one of these is the Gateway module and which one of these is the Eis and if I can only have those things in the system and there's and those things are not shorted the key should turn that's all I'm trying to do here is just get the key to turn all right let's see if we can get this done here going to do these one at a time we're going to make sure that that these do not have communication with or continuity between the two all right no this is very difficult I need different uh pins here all right so that one's good all right well that one test okay there's no corrosion anywhere in here so it's not like it had a water problem or moisture intrusion I think I have an idea we're going to try to find x35 um basically we've we've gone through x36 right here and we've gone through x34 but uh the way that this reads looks like it goes from oh my God that's not what I wanted to do I I am bad at using this just FYI also not what I wanted to do um oh hey I can scroll so x34 x35 and x36 they all are connected right here and then there's some others that connect well actually they don't so this is it right here this is the linking oh my God stop this is the linking one right here so I I've had a good look at 34 I've had a good look at 36 but I haven't looked at 35 and it says 35 is um hold on 35 is basically the same place as 34 just on the other side so we're going to pull that apart and see what that looks like the seat was acting up pretty strangely and you remember uh the left front seat control modules on that one so let's uh and the the driver's door it controls all the windows the windows went down as soon as I powered on this car so I think there might be some problems there but let's dig in and see what we can find all right I pulled the carpet up Dugout x35 it doesn't look like it's corroded I don't see any major issues here uh it doesn't look like this side has been wet so that's a good sign uh however I am looking at uh these connectors and it looks like what I believe is that uh this one comes from since it goes from 36 to 35 to 34 the one that was creating a problem and throwing Cod was this one if I plug that one in and run the test it will throw an interrupted code a 9306 but if I if I leave that disconnected it doesn't throw the code which doesn't mean that that's the problem it just means that the problem is further down the chain because what I believe the way this works is that this connector since it's got that little identifier on it is the same as this connector which I can prove in a continuity test this one right there I can prove that in a continuity test that's probably what we're going to do I'm to kind of get better access to all this we do a continuity test prove that and we're just going to work down the chain let's do a little recap that is x36 that is x35 and this one in the footwell is x34 so when I disconnect x34 from x35 it doesn't throw codes but when I reconnect it it does throw codes which tells me the problem is with this side here this is where the problem is with the can Network and I have it throwing a code now so what I'm going to do is disconnect each one of these one at a time close but then as I was digging in here look at that connector and there's obviously been a water in here there's tons of corrosion everywhere even up there on that Junction this is not not looking good so basically what I'm doing is I will pull one connector from this bus bar and then I will delete the codes let's just erase the codes actually before we do that just pull one of these I've done my test those are all good circuits and I have three bad ones which is not really a surprise um I really expected one but there are three so now that there are no trouble codes let's see if that ignition turns bad news guys it still doesn't turn so while I may have fixed a problem or eliminated a problem it is not the only problem well we have a blown fuse here fusing were 78 it's a 7 and a half so we're going to put a 10 in it just for 25% extra capacity and it just popped the fuse yep cool so I found fuse 78 it's right here and it looks like it goes to the steering column module the alarm signal horn the engine control module and the ignition switch I don't believe the ignition switch is the problem but you know those connectors on that uh engine control module look pretty rough so the next thing we're going to do is we're going to disconnect the engine control module we're going to put another fuse in it and we're going to see if it pops if it doesn't we're kind of stuck in the water I don't have another computer and this is the end of the line for me but if it does then it's uh either the steering column module or the alarm signal we'll find those disconnect them and hope for the best they put these engine control modules in the the literally the worst spot possible this is it here it's actually pretty loose in here but I have been playing around with this trying to get that loose fixing that fuse so let's pull these connectors out uh that one's not too bad but this area fills up with water because stuff comes off the windshield the drains get clogged uh let's keep going here that didn't feel good oh no it's it's okay let's keep going I don't see anything terrible yet just it's not it's not perfect that's corroded let's get this one this is a power and ground connector typically you have to have power on ground for you to have a lot of corrosion through electrolysis that is not coming out okay oh oh yep lots of corrosion in this connector little bit over here these three look pretty decent although there's a little bit in this that is that is bad we're going to open this up and see if it's corroded on the inside a lot of corrosion came out of that when I pulled that that's side doesn't look too bad does this come oh this is sealed to this I can't see what the back side looks like this really doesn't look too bad I expected a lot worse I don't see any problems with the board I've seen I've pulled these apart before not just on these cars but all cars and you'll see all kinds of corrosion CU if they're wet when there's power going through them uh it's bad that you don't want that the can that's pretty corroded right there so I'm going to put this back together try to go a little bit further I don't know how much farther I can get with this car it's uh it's not looking too great I'm going to give the car 12 volts and if this pops right away that means it's something else if it doesn't pop we'll connect the computer back up and see if it blows the fuse I got plenty of fuses here these big twood door cars are kind of a challenge here please don't po or please pop okay awesome I'm not done yet so we have proved it is not the engine control module because it still blows a fuse with that disconnected I mean I suppose it could still be wiring but we're going to go to the next stop which is the alarm signal horn which according to the internet is in the left front fender like behind the wheel behind the fender liner so let's go dig [Music] I think that's all of it don't mind the beeping that's my uh J box that shouldn't be hanging out of the car all right it's [Applause] fixed that's this thing right here all right it's not corroded looking let's go see if it blows the fuse again car has power again the engine control module and the siren are disconnected now we're going to install a fresh fuse and if it pops then we'll go to the steering column module no pop now I really wonder if we can turn the key come on baby please be that I don't really want to fight anything else key turns it doesn't start but the key turns on its own it says Computing data Computing data climate controls on I think that the uh jump box is low so let's put the other one on it and see if we can get it to crank on its own power let's turn the key off oh it's so awesome DME is connected again and if the key still turns we're still good oh the key is still in the right position here we go nope unhappy so because it doesn't engage a starter let me see if I need to be on the brake I wonder if I have to be on the brake for that to happen nope it doesn't want to engage the starter I don't have anything disconnected so let's see if we can uh hook up a noid light and test for injector pulse before I give this an alternate fuel source all right there's the Noid light no pulse that's not good let's try one more time nope okay let's go pull codes out of the engine control unit for the first time does it communicate if it doesn't communicate we're we're pretty much dead in the water here I think that's that corrosion fingers crossed oh man we're in trouble codes ah stored in current stored in current stored in current something is shorted to ground oh man this is a whole it's got to be that all that corrosion let's just fix it by deleting them all and see what comes right back which is going to be everything because everything was stored in current uh yep yep oh there's less of them throttle P 1220s some throttle codes short circuit to battery or open circuit for the intake air tap set sensor air flap electrical fault throttle valve short circuit to ground let me go dig around and see if I can find any reasons why well I found a missing fuse a 20 Amper in this fuse box uh I didn't know that it was missing a fuse because you could barely see the terminals because everything's kind of corroded but since I replaced that I cleared the codes I only have a fuel tank level code which I'm not really that worried about and I can hear the throttle body humming along which is a good sign I verified that when you use the throttle pedal the gas pedal the throttle plate moves so that's awesome so now we're going to be the starter relay again because it still doesn't start or engage a starter and we're going to see if we have injector pulse all right here we go oh that was kind of promising let's give I have no idea what that was we're just going to Anno ignore that sound and then we're going to give it some ether [Music] oh yeah let's do that [Music] again still don't have injector pulse but it's running on [Music] either well it runs but I still I ain't got injector pulse but why let's go run the codes again now that we had it kind of running let's see electronic esm oh it's got lots of codes can air pump charcoal canister oxygen sensor all right so that's stored we're going to just fix it by deleting them H all kinds of codes still still all right or crank so rle plate is clicking around look at that just one code uh I did that last time also so I think I have one chance to see if I have injector pulse before I spend the time it takes to hook up another fuel source so let's go see if we have injector pulse no pulse it does run without knocking though and I can tell you the pulley on the blower sounds absolutely terrible I don't know how much more I want to try this no's all right no I'm done [Music] I think I'm going to call it guys I heard the engine run it doesn't knock it doesn't sound wonderful because starting fluid is not the correct fuel but it does run and uh I can do a compression test on it now I can do a leakdown test on it I feel good about being able to communicate with everything we know we've got corrosion in the DME I think I'm going to call it man I really wanted to get this thing to run an idle but I just I don't see it happening time was not nice to this car this certainly isn't the ending I wanted I really wanted to hear this thing rev and idle and see how everything sounded but everything starts to get stacked against that idea between the pulley on the supercharger looking like it's going to explode at any moment and God knows how old the oil is I don't know if there's coolant in it or not this a lot of question marks plus there's clearly some other wiring issues in this car time does not do these cars any any favors at all these cars do not like sitting in the weeds they don't like sitting outside and while this was a very very expensive car a lot of cars that are now 20 and 30 years old that are in dire need of either repair or being put out of their misery we expensive new also and you know it just takes one type of owner to wreck a car I'm not going to say anything about the person that owned this because this came out of a tollot so I don't really know the scenario it could be that no one could figure out what I figured out of what was wrong with it or maybe everything I found was stuff that the elements and time caused to it either way I feel a little bit better I know the mileage of the car I'm able to turn the key so I know the key and the ignition that whole system worked I know that the engine doesn't sound like a box of rocks that's getting ready to explode so I have confidence that the bottom end is good we're going to do a compress and leakdown test when this thing gets inventoried I will not sell the computer out of this because I suspect that is the reason we don't have injector pulse amongst some of the other issues that came up in codes either way I don't always come out smelling like roses it's not always the case I know in a lot of videos in the past I've generally been successful and I would be lying if I told you that I kind of pick stuff where I would hope that the outcome would be uh favorable you know my tuition my experience usually tells me how something will end up and you know I don't have extra CL 55s or any 215 chassis Mercedes around so I don't have extra Gateway modules or Sams or engine controllers or any extra parts for these cars this is the only one I have which makes fixing it on the cheap a lot more daunting but either way I'm still somewhat content I'll feel good about selling the drivetrain these are great engines they generally don't have problems unless they've been abused you know 140,000 Mi wouldn't call that exactly low but it's not terrible considering the car is 20 years old this was without a doubt 10 times harder than the burned Miata Miatas I know very well and I have 10 of at any time this I don't know very well I had to enlist the help of my friend Eric and my friend Ed they walked me through several steps of the diagnosis process and I could iron out some issues now I don't know whether the can issues I found were going to keep this thing from getting this far I didn't realize there was another fuse box in the car but either way I can sleep better knowing that I got this as far as I could I generally don't spend this much time trying to get cars running in other salvage yards other businesses I guarantee you they don't go through this kind of work because it just totally negates any kind of profit the time invested but I'd like to show you guys how far we will go you know we'll we'll check the oil filter for metal and the oil for metal we'll do some things to make sure that what selling is good put a boroscope in the cylinders the normal stuff we would do on an engine like this is probably worth $3 or $4,000 I hope you enjoyed this video I know it's outside of the norm but maybe it will become the new Norm but hopefully not quite this bad I I don't think I could do this again for a while as always I love all the comments all the feedback and even the criticism I love it all and I'll catch you on the next one

Channel: I Do Cars

Views: 452,576

Keywords: Mercedes, Mercedes-Benz, W215, CL, CL55, CL65, CL500, AMG, Kompressor, M113, M113K, Supercharged, V8, Old car, I Do Cars, Salvage Yard, Mechanic, parts, junk, salvage, Engine, Swap, pulley, CAN, Wiring, Diagnosis, key, programming, scanner, W216, E55, S55, CLS55, W220, DAS, 2001, 2002, 2003, 2004, 2005, 2006, V12, Turbo, Twin Turbo, Dyno, Exhaust, exhaust clip, Fuel pump, injector, ECU, ECM, Engine computer, water ingress, corrosion, terminal, CANBUS, How to, Fix, Repair, MB, M112K, Supercharger pulley, Tune

Id: I7P5-Jw2wFs

Length: 58min 51sec (3531 seconds)

Published: Fri Oct 27 2023