Curved Screen Upgrade! 270 Degree Wrap Around!

hi everyone and welcome back to the project today's video is going to be about upgrading this projection surface that have been using so I'm going from a 180 degree surface with two projectors that you can see here to a full 270 degree screen projection surface with three projectors you can see here this video is going to be a really long one I apologize for that but I've crammed the whole lot into it if you look at the description down below you can see that I've marked at the times where I'm talking about stuff so if you don't want to see the whole manufacturing you don't want to see the calibration or later on see some flying footage click on those times and you can skip forward alright so you can see here the screen whoops this is basically finished I have it calibrated and completely yet but I'll show you how I do the rough one you can obviously see that I now have three projectors I actually got the third projector which is that one there for 350 Australian dollars on gumtree so I was pre cheap okay so here's everything I need to make another section the top and the bottom brace which are the 90 degree curve I cut them earlier when I built the rest of the screen three braces one on each end and one in the center and an extra leg to support this some ordinary glue and a whole bunch of screws okay so here is those bits combined to make the basic frame you can see how simple it is a couple of bolts some screws I just want to show you how I glue the MDF one basically I'll just lay it like that cover the whole inside surface with the clew then grab that laid in the middle two screws to tack it in the center and then go along and clamp it so there's probably two screws there two screws there and the rest is all clamps holding it to that curve and then once it's all dry I trim the edges so you get a nice even cut rather than having to rather than trying to work the size of that out cutting that and then gluing it on large part banging the centre trim the edges so you can see I've just laid the MDF out it's only um three millimeter thick so it naturally wants to curve now I'm just going to take the screws in and we'll all be good to go okay so here it is with the MDF cover on it still clamped in place obviously while the glue dries all I'm gonna do now is just trim the outside of the MDF so it's the right size and I'll just do that with all right so what I'm doing now is just strengthening it up a bit I have flipped it over and I'm just running glue in all the joins and then I'll flip it over there so I'd do it on both sides so there's enough glue to hold the whole thing together I'm the screws in the screen surface will be removed so I can not have any lumps and bumps in it I'll just fill those holes and sand and flat you can see inside there and I want inside that and then I'll flip it upside down and do the same thing on that side and then I'll flip it this way and run them all up inside so basically every joint will be nice and strong okay so here it is just with one coat of white paint on it just really just seal the back to stop it from being dusty in the bedroom the front is gonna stay white I'll actually paint it with the screen paint that I've got when it's inside more bolted together because I can coat the whole thing and make it nice and even rather than have this one pad it separately so next thing I'm gonna do is just take him in the room and bolt it up Chuck a leg on it that's good to go just thought I quickly take the opportunity to show you the difference in color it's a bit hard to pick up in my other videos because it all sort of little spray or white that's what hasn't been coated with the screen paint yet and that's actual screen paint color you can see that it's a on a matte gray mixed with a little bit of aluminium um it's it's a formula that I've off the internet black widow it's called so it's a specific formula or I'm mixed up you have a look at this video here and um it'll explain to you what makes I used anyway so when I painted this I had some paint left over so I've got about half a liter which should be enough to cut that so what I'll do now is I'll get this mounted up it's pretty easy all I need to do is remove that leg that one bolts where that link would go I'll draw another hole in there so there's a ball at the top as well and then there's a leg that will be on the back of that similar - this leg that's down here so there'll be a leg at the back of it which will also join those two together and then that way gets moved onto this end and then once that's on I will run some tape to fill the gap down the bottom and paint give that a coat give that one coat and then give it probably a second coat and just blend it on to that one so I'll go over the tape so it'll be the same color and then hopefully there'll be no gaps and then obviously so once that's up this whole cockpits going to get twisted that way so that will be the center so now all I'm gonna do is just um unhook up these two side consoles I'll leave the cockpit in in place but I'll just take the side consoles off so I've got more room to move around to do that all it is is two cables on each a USB cable and the power cable and then they just pull clear I'll put these in another room and get around the way and we'll be good to go okay so you can see that I have taken this leg off that used to be there and replaced it with a long one and you can see how the longer ones actually bolt on to the back and then obviously there's a lip so the new screen can get bolted to it so once so that leg there now just has to get bolted onto the edge of that screen and then the screen gets lifted up and these big stainless steel bolts go through it and there's also a couple bolts on that leg which hold it up as well okay so it's done took me about an hour I think to get a right there a couple of bolts in the center there and about 270 degrees what I'm gonna do now is me at that third projector it would be pretty easy all I need to do is measure out bolt it up when I installed this one I put another joist so it'll bolt straight up and then I'm just gonna run the cable back up through the roof all right so I was just about to me at the project and I remembered something very important luckily before I started mounting it I just laid out the laser level so it's on the halfway point there and the halfway point on that screen and I realize that you need the lens even beyond that the lens of the projector has to be sent to the screen so that lenses dead-center with that wine so I was about to mount the projector exactly where that one is but over here but then that means my lens would be this way and not in the center so I actually have to offset that projector mount so basically it'll be the width of that so I'll measure there I'll measure the center of the projector and do the offset for where the lenses and the lens will be pointed dead straight on that okay so the addition to the screen has been installed all I need to do now is just try to add some drops treats and paint that one the same color I'll just run a bit of tape on this gap just here this is a little bit of a gap and I'll do the same thing I did with that one you just run tape down it it's pretty it's pretty noticeable when the screens not on but when the image is on the screen you don't really notice it that much so just write a bit of tape in there paint that grey I'll probably give it two coats and then I'll just give the whole thing one more coat to blend it all and then it'll be done the projectors mounted that was pretty easy all I need to do is fix that I just ran out of those ball Mo's wall plug things so I just temporarily run the cables like that and so I go to the shop and get another one but anyway it's free projectors 270 degrees of screen okay so the screens basically finished all of it at who now is far up the computer and the software and align the whole thing you can see that I have marked out known points on the screen itself so I'll just use there's a little bits of electrical tape like arrows so basically I've measured the exact halfway point mark did the exact halfway point marked it halfway between each screen measured it marked it and then measured the halfway point marked it so basically each panel has nine nine points of it being the four corners of each panel the halfway points and the halfway points that way so it's like a big cross that is so once I get in the software I can tell the software the known points and then it will guess the warp for me and then I'll just tweak the whole thing using the grid it's actually pretty easy to do once you get your hand around how to do it with the keyboard shortcut especially you just sit in there and then I mark one eyeball or I know some people get lasers and try to get every single thing perfect I'm not that pedantic I basically one mark one eyeball as long as I'm sitting in the aircraft and it looks correct and there's no obvious warping I'm happy with it okay so the computers still not hooked up this is just the projectors mounted in the roof and I've put on their test patterns that tell me so I can double-check that the entire screen surface is covered which it is and I've got a pretty decent overlap in the center here this is the bit the software will blend one important thing to do is make sure that you go in these and reset factory settings before you do anything and make sure all the key stone on them is turn to zeros so you don't want any keystoning going on on this you just want a straight image coming out of the projectors because all the key stone and all the warping is done by the fly away software look you can see that it obviously overlaps that's just the nature of the projector if i zoom out on this one for example you can see that you need to zoom it perfectly so that you cover the little gaps when I only have the two I could actually zoom out a bit because I didn't need to overlap the middle bit here because that would have been behind the instrument panel however now that there's three I'll have to zoom this one in a little bit and now they're all sort of zoomed about the same so you can see the overlap you can see there'll be no bits of the images it's not covered by a projector and the software will do the rest okay so here we are in the desktop environment I just turned it on for the first time and all projectors are working and so is the main instrument panel what I need to do now is set it all up and calibrate it so the first thing I need to do is turn on Nvidia surround so these three sharp is one be big screen in Windows so you do that by just right clicking and going Nvidia control panel and then God knows where it's going to pop up it right there which is good and then I just go standard surround I just 1 4 & 3 so you can see the 1 4 & 3 so I put it in that order 1 4 & 3 and then enable surround and it'll blink at me all right and now it's treating it as one big desktop it's also disabled the main use for a panel or just need to close this now it's a bit of a stuff around trying to find each window where is it there it is so I'm finished in the video control panel close that and then I just need to go to display settings and you can see it's several set up those three projectors display number two and that one there is the main instrument panel I just need to extend these the sways and I just need to actually turn that on because all the water turned off okay so now we're windows it's set up as the three projectors is a big number two and number one is the main instrument panel I'm so I'm finished in that now I just need to run the Flyleaf software to warp this thing so you just open up you open up a mess of calibration display Pro you just open up the look at over here so let's see so you need to know about the client file fly less and you will get this window and this window here is where you telling everybody projectors are in that so you go down I'm going to make it three and it is three by one so now the software knows is three projectors as part of that one monitor minimize that and run the server which is just here I will load the recent project file here we go we will change it so if I just click this over here so right now it's a bit hard to see but um you just need to assign which project that is to which thing so I'll just click in any like that for double-click project the wand select connect and there we go now it knows that let's predict tomorrow that's projected to and that's projected three now I can just start walking wait so because I'm not running it on this I could try and put that down on the manage for a panel but it's really hard to see behind the behind the gauges so I just do it a bit warped and weird so you can see that the software now knows which projector is which and now I'm up to warping it it's all tied back in the software and then I click on screen this is where I get all the measurements of the screen and how many points there will be that I want to move around the screen it will make sense in a second so I can set how many rows I want how many columns I want and then that will tell me how many dots or an actual surface that I can manipulate to warp it so I've even put all the screens details here you can see that because it's a 270 degree screen sort of you go from the center so negative 125 degrees that way and 125 degrees that way makes up the whole thing and then you start in the center again so begin vertical is because it's 120 centimeters tall you go down 60 centimeters and up 60 centimeters x axis tilt you don't worry about so this is where you set columns and rows so it's going to put a grid over my screen I want an even number on each screen so I basically you can pick whatever number you want if you want to be super accurate into a hundred little grids and you can move them all around individually I do ten ten rows and 20 columns per screen so 60 in total 20 20 and 20 the next screen you go to is just here views so this is hey hey you set each project hour so that you can see it's it's highlighted here what projector one is doing and going calm 1 to 21 so you have to remember that it's not it's not 1 to 20 it's 1 to 21 because you want that overlap and then this one will be 19 so it's 1 grid in that way so it overlaps with two grids 19 to 22 I think it is so it overlaps there and then that one is column 60 all the way over to 39 so there's a two column crossover there and a two column across over there so you get that nice blend and then you can zoom it on this one here and move that around if you want to to see exactly what you're doing so when I you can see I'll push on view that's what that projectors covering you push on that view there sorry projector three that's what that position is cover covering so the way I'm showing you now is the manual way to do it this software you can actually set up a web camera and then you tell it a few points in the camera itself will walk the screen for you I'm just doing it the easy way so well the manual way not the easy way so now I go to screen grid so you can see when I click that screen projector one is near grid project the two there's a grid and projector three there's a crude all right so here's the grid on projector one so looks really complicated but it's not all I need to do is move I think it's full it needs to know four points to walk the screen for you so what I'm gonna do is move one of these grid squares to a known point so I'm going to move this corner right here to the corner of this and then I'm going to move this corner down here that the project is putting out to the bottom of that screen and then I'm going to move the corner of that one into the arrow that I've marked so you can see I've put these little arrows up here I know that's the halfway mark so I know grid number 10 which is back here needs to be moved on to that so it's really easy to do you can click the mouse and drag them around but I thought it's just easier with the keyboard so I'll just click this some a way out of that screen so you can see that when I move the keyboard I can just switch between which one and then that is also switching on that one you can see the purple cross is the one that I'm going to be moving and then all you need to do is hold ctrl and you'll move that so if I go up and select at the top left hand corner and then I hold ctrl you can see I can move that so all I need to do is move that point on to the screen the actual physical part of the screen that I know is the top left hand corner so you can see I'm moving it to about there is the top left hand corner then I'll go down and select the bottom one again hold ctrl so I've selected that one that's down on the floor now I'm sorry hold ctrl and now I'm moving that one so I need to move that to the corner about their so the reason that I've marked the reason I've got ten columns is an even number so I know that if I get number five which is the halfway mark I can put it right on that arrow which is the halfway mark on the screen and then I'm gonna do that for all the projectors so all the projectors will have six points known to them they'll be the corners the halfway corners the centers and then after that all I have to do is click calculate and it should do a rough warp for me so what I'll do now is off-camera I'll just go and move all those positions around and then I'll come back when I'm ready to walk so one thing that I forgot to mention is so when you've moved the grid to the point that you'd know on the screen is correct it's important that you push the space bar which you'll see turns into an arrow which tells the software that you've locked that one in that one's where it's supposed to be all right so I'm basically ready to warp so you can see when I click v1 it will bring me the grid looks like a shoe model but you can see on this one how I have that was the flat grid I've moved at the points that I know physically on the screen are correct to the correct points and marked them in the software as the correct bit so I've moved the corner down to the corner that I marked I've moved the center down to the center that I marked I moved that end at the end to the end that I marked and the same with the center and the edges I haven't done the center in this one I've just done the center in the middle and then if I turn on all if I click projected to and projected three same thing so you can see on this grid how much I've moved those points you can see that one right there is moved to that known point you can see here's an arrow that I've marked and I've moved the green bit to where it is so all I need to do now is click on this little icon down here which does on each projector that one there which does auto perspective so click that and it's sorta half whopped it half walked it sorry click that on that one messed up a little bit but that's alright clicked out on that one okay so you can sorta see that I'm getting somewhere now so the biggest issue it sort of got the curve pretty well the biggest issue will be the overlap so you can see how this one here is not overlapped with that one so all I have to do is manually go in and move them so all the grids line up perfectly across and that these arrows that I've marked on the screen a perfectly level this one here's a beneficial nozzle but that's alright I can fix that up manually by moving each individual point to the grid to the one in the center or mixing and matching them so they're designed so after or I get so people some people get laser levels and make it all perfect some people do all that sort of stuff I basically sit in the seat and mark one eyeball up until I can get a nice straight level I know that these arrows are all straight so as long as everything looks to me like it's a nice complete grid I'll be happy with it so basically all you need to do is jump in here and then so I just say I want to fix this bit up here all I need to do is make sure I'm on projector three which I am and then I can use the keyboard to find you can see the purple cross moving to find which one I want to move and then I can move that one up see so I can move that up to the top and I can move that up to the top and you can even click continue with something moves the ball at the same time but anyway I'll um I'll sit down and probably take me about half an hour to get this nice and lined up how I like it and will be the video okay so you can see so pretty much got it wall lined you can obviously see the overlap is bright up but that will be fixed in the next step you can see that the grids all line up the numbers all line up and I think we're at a pretty good warp right now so we'll have to do now that I've moved all of those calculate it will calculate and there is a it's very multi complete a pretty good war it looks like you can see it perhaps the whole way around I can change the image if I want to to something with a bit of perspective it looks pretty good alright the next step is to edge blend so you can change the colors and the brightness in the overlap all I basically have always just left it standard like that and it has worked really well you can see that you can't really see the edge blend in between those two projectors there on that panorama you can just you that's only because this projector is a different model to the other two these are st pluses this one's an st standard i fixed that by manually changing the brightness and once we're in the game on that one because the two st pluses are a brighter projector the knee st so that's how fix that i don't fix that in the software now fix the perspective you just click on perspective this is where you would put your head position so you alright you go in there and you can move your head to where it would be I'm basically right my Center which is where I want and I'll tweak that once I actually get the cockpit back together and start flying a bit I'll realize if it's a little bit out I usually put my head position a little bit further forward than it really is that gives me a better rear would a better view around the rear because it thinks my head is forward so it squeezes that that view out a little bit and you don't really notice but you can sort of see a little bit around the back so now I just click find fresh rooms and then calculate perspective you know I just go cube or tunnel and it will you'll see that the perspective in that tunnel is pretty much perfect as to where your head would be look to the left lift that a tunnel or you just click this cube and you can see what I can see that's the left projector front so what you think right now is basically the viewports that des will output so there'll be a viewport right there on the left view point out there in the front view point that way banks will make sense all right now all I need to do now is I'll save this quickly export so this will actually export a dcs world see right there dcs world lui which then all i have to do is cut and paste that into my monitor confit and dcs will put the perfect viewports and it'll be perfect it also outputs a separate one for the desktop environment right so i've saved that data all i need to do now is open up sorry close that one i just need to open up immersive display price a bit hard when you're in this and the desktops not walk but you just gotta find it unless you've it's dead here on the floor somewhere here yes you display right now a message display below I'm sorry immersive display Pro will run it's all freaking out because my last what is it right alright so now I just have to find that one I just made so I go external calibration and always save it in the same spot which is and I say we're just here I'm fig 12th of April 20 single and then I just click desktop warping and bag she's walked mostly 270 degree desktop so the next thing I need to do is I just navigate to that folder that I saved the Lu way in which will be in config and here it is here sorry lui so you can see that it has saved in Lu AE which is the viewport settings for these projectors for DC s so all I need to do is cut and paste sorry cut and paste this section here into my monitor config and then when I start this yes it will be walked perfectly that's how easy it is no messing around with Lu ways trying to work it out myself in DES flawless it's it up for me and it'll work I have to tweak it a little bit just to get I'll have to tweak it now because I've lost the city you screen but it shouldn't take me too long but some get it in this yes and see what it looks like ok so here I'm sitting in the aircraft the flight up DCs and you can see the difference is pretty amazing I've still got the little triangles marked where on where I was calibrating the screen before you can see this triangle right here and this triangle right here used to be the edge of my screen that was with the two projectors running 180 degree screen I've now obviously got the three projectors and they are running the 270 degree so I had that much more of a view I can see my wing I can see my wing man just over there that's pretty cool I can also see my wing on that side that will probably get cut off once I walked the images but you can see how dcs is now my output three viewports the left viewport the center viewport and the right viewport so when I push the warp 3d button up here on the UFC it will warp these images together and I'll get the correct perspective so there's not these three viewports it's gonna blend them all into one so that is my 3d setting I can still see my wingtips can't see more oscillator I lost a little bit there but still looks pretty good something's going on with the field of view here I can tell this needs to be in a little bit I'll probably need to move it back a little bit I think but that can be tweaked when I get around to it in the field of view settings in fly ways that will tweak that for me but it looks pretty cool can see my wingtips all the way back over my shoulder I like it you want to rotate Kirra yeah that's pretty cool yeah being you I can being able to see my wingtips is pretty epic I can almost look over my whole shoulder I am going to I can already tell just by this little quick play around and I'm going to dish track I are completely and I'm gonna switch back to using snap use just to halt the way over my wing and look up strike without the throne a pit yeah this is pre epic so look there's still a little bit of work to do I just need to I can see there's a weird warp see how that road he's done a weird angle just there yeah everything there is sort of warping so I need to fix up the warped just here I can also tell that I need to fix the brightness of this projector here it's not just because the sun's there it's because this hope in a sky is a little bit too broad and obviously once I get it all lined out I will remove the little arrows I've got marking the center points so I can also tell that I'm rendering the three viewports instead of two has given me a pretty big performance hit it's definitely not as smooth as it used to be I think I'll be able to fix that with tweaking settings which I haven't got around to yet but this is pretty cool yeah that's pretty cool wah-wah [Music] attitude altitude wah-wah well ah voila pull up pull up yeah that's pretty cool Oh look it still needs a little bit of Twix done to it but I'm pretty impressed a little idea the UM the extra view you know lots of words really I don't know what to say it's a cool word [Music] [Music] yeah that's pretty cool okay so that brings us to the end of this video thanks for peeps for watching make sure that you hit that subscribe button if you haven't already if you have any questions throw them in the comments below and all I'm trying to answer them they tips for watching [Music]

Channel: The Warthog Project

Views: 306,883

Rating: 4.9399962 out of 5

Keywords: dcs

Id: PLd-00W2HEg

Length: 37min 10sec (2230 seconds)

Published: Fri May 08 2020

Reddit Comments

[u/alexcd421]

I created my own really cheap triple projector display. If you want a really tight display like his, or get the projectors up out of your way, you need short throw projectors. I opted for a wide angle. I made a screen out of poster board and the diameter was about 6 feet. I bought cheap projectors off of Amazon since I didn't want to pay for short throw, and got the free trial software for Immersive Display pro. It wasn't as amazing as VR imo, but 1000X better than triple screen monitors.

https://imgur.com/gallery/TThYk5x

http://imgur.com/gallery/1Gdmh58

http://imgur.com/gallery/syuhmu9

Projectors were around $120

[u/Tikana11]

I’ve seen a couple setups that have this kinda stuff. Usually ran by racing teams and the likes in what I’ve watched.

I figure at this point though most people would just go to VR lol, or alternately you wouldn’t need this range of visibility in sim racing.

[u/rasheedwiggins]

You'd see that more often a couple of years back. eg: https://www.projectimmersion.com/

Been mostly replaced by VR or big triples now

[u/FoxBearBear]

Meters...

[u/eskamobob1]

Projectors in sim racing are a bit old hat. If you look up threads discussing them they are all from around 2016 or so. The problems with projectors is that low input lag and high refresh can be extremely hard to get with decent resolution. For something like a 3x 1080p 120hz 8bit setup you are looking 3-5k for the projectors alone and you still have to set up the screen (another easy 1-2k depending on material used) all for a fairly washed out look with high eye fatigue rates. Other posters are right that it is predominantly used in pro sims at this point simply because it costs so much compaired to even a fantastic triple setup.

EDIT: it also makes the footprint of a normal 8020 rig look fucking minuscule