CREALITY'S ENDER 3 MAX - NEO - QUICKSTART GUIDE

hey guys today we're going to unbox build and do our first prints on our Ender 3 Neo [Music] so once you've unboxed it this is what you're left with be very careful when you get to the Gantry here it is permanently connected to the base unit that's underneath it in the box so you kind of have to lift this out pull out the base unit and collectively bring both of them to the table it's a little bit tricky so just be be cognizant of that you don't want to be yanking on any of these chords too hard so we only have really two pieces to assemble which is kind of standard we've seen that on many printers and I'll just kind of cover what we got in the Box before we get to building so we've got our sample spool of filament nicely vacuum sealed here we've got all of our assembly tools and the micro USB stick here which probably has some pre-sliced files there's also some Flush Cutters in there as well we've got our manual which we'll absolutely read and some sort of a warranty card of sorts a scraper which is sharpened we have two pieces for the spool holder here and of course the screen and then the power cord so first things first in the assembly bag we're going to need Allen Keys wrenches and the long bolts that they have here so there's four of them there's gonna be two for each side and slightly different from most printers that we've seen it's actually going to bolt through the side of the uprights instead of bolting up underneath through this unit there's really the side rails don't really overhang the uh the bed you know they're covered by the bed so can't really bolt up through in that way so laying this on top here like so so the uprights fit into those kind of milled notches on the side just be careful of all the the wiring make sure you're not pinching anything and then we can bolt through that with these long screws there's two holes in either upright just make sure you're not cross threading them or anything you may have to like slightly lift to uh to align the holes there we go and so then screw those in so now that we've got the uprights connected to the base there we're going to work on the screen so this cable here it's got a little key on it and there's a little notch on the back side of here so you know it only goes One Direction connect to that and then on this bracket here we have some t-nuts that are already screwed into just going to loosen them so that they're freely spinning on the back side there and then you can you can kind of spin them to try to line them up with these grooves here so make sure that they're all like horizontal you can also spin them by spinning the the screws but they should slide in like that and then just reach underneath and quickly twist them hopefully they turn in the channels there and tighten them down the back two screws at least you can kind of look on an angle through the slot to see that they've Twisted inside that slot to make sure they both kind of fully engaged and so that's right there let's take protective film off and then for the spool holder and just take a look here so on the back side over here it's just going to kind of click in and this is the part that the spool rides on so just kind of a quarter turn there so the idea is that oops that this is going to go on the top rail there and then just press it down and it should kind of lock in there we go and there's a little bumper on here so it sits on the table to support it slide that all the way to the back there we go and then we have a couple more cables here to connect yeah this does have a hinge so it can kind of like move out of the way almost so on the back side we have this cable that's probably labeled Zed yep Z1 so this is our Z Motor connect him we've got this bundle of cables that's handling all this stuff that's already pre-connected for us we don't have to worry we have this cable here which is for the bed just make sure plenty of slack on that so we don't have to worry then on this side we have the other Zed motor connect that one okay and I can also take off the protective film here so they did include their kind of textured glass build surface on here and these little Clips the front Clips rotate kind of out of the way like that they're very hard on the fingers that's for sure there we go so rotate those away and then the glass can slide forward out of the back clips that way you can remove the glass and slide it back in like that I've also seen people use you know mirror other materials as well whenever you're moving axes manually should move them very slowly just you don't want to induce any voltage backwards through the system but just moving this I'm feeling that there's no binding or buckling in the in the wheels you know there's no slop in the bed so I don't actually have to adjust the eccentric nuts on the wheels that are riding on the sides of this 40 40 rail here on this 4040 rail speaking of we have our tension adjustment for the Y belt we also have the tension adjustment for the X belt here they seem pretty good from the factory so I don't have to play with those um and at this point I think we're just about ready to uh to turn it on on the hot end here just taking a look so we've got our fan shroud for our part cooling fan that comes in from the side we've got a um a probe here like a BL touch style probe for automatic bed leveling and of course this is a Bowden fed system so you've got your extruder gear mechanism on the top side of the x-rail so the power cord plugs in here behind the screen right behind this upright and there's the power switch on that Inlet so click that and in just a minute the screen should turn on in the front here I should have mentioned this earlier we have a little drawer to store all of our tools and everything so when I'm done I'll load that drawer up so the screen's up we can see the bed is to 24 the hot ends 24 and I just want to test the axes so if I prepare and say Auto home so it's home the X there we go and the Y and then it should bring it kind of to the center and the probe deploys and then it's just going to touch the bed there while that's going down we're still going to want to do our Corner leveling like we normally do so we will home all the axes which is what we're doing here and then we'll do the manual bed leveling at the corners and then kind of re-home the axes I'm going to assume that from the factory The Zed offset for the probe is already set if it's not set correctly when it thinks it's at zero if we put the Zed all the way down and we do slide a piece of paper under there there will be an improper Gap if that offset is not set correctly so that's a pretty pretty quick test okay so it's now homed itself and if we go to to move and we move the Zed right now Zed's at 10 millimeters if we bring it down and I'm just going to put paper underneath here bring it down to zero and there is not even remotely any drag so right now Z is at zero supposedly but it's actually like two or three millimeters off the build surface right now so we're going to have to set the Zed offset if we go to it's going to be under prepare yeah and Zed offset and we can make it further negative and as we make it further negative it's actually moving the hot end down and narrowing that Gap so somewhere around there is anyway a little more sane so we're at minus 2.44 millimeters or so what that means is when the probe hits the bed the nozzle is still 2.4 millimeters above the bed so it says even though it's hit the bed you need to move down 2.4 more millimeters before the nozzle is in the right location now I just set that roughly because everything's cold right now we'd want to do that much like our bed leveling we want to do that when things are at temperature so let's warm this up and we'll do preheat pla and so that's going to set the hot end to 200 and the bed to 60. okay I'm jumping the gun a little bit the bed is at 59 degrees the hot end is at 163 and I can feel that the amount of drag has actually changed already um so if I go back to the Zed offset and bring this further negative there we go so I've got kind of that much drag if that makes sense so I'm at minus 2.48 in my case so if we go back to the main menu and go to leveling it's actually going to do the automatic bed leveling you know the five by five or so probing of points but we want to just make sure our Corners are saying first so just in case you haven't do a home Auto home or home all axes let that finish then we're going to bring the Zed down to zero in the center just like we did and move the Zed To Each corner and check Each corner with our leveling paper get those Corners all balanced out check the center again and then at that point we'll do the auto bed leveling to make a whole topographical map of the surface there so let's go to move we'll bring Zed down as I said okay and just going to adjust my Z offset because it feels a little bit tight minus 2.4 feels good okay so now I'm just going to move the Zed up just to make sure I don't scratch the surface and then I'll move it to the corners so we just want to avoid where the clips are now I'll move the Zed down and again just so I'm not scratching the build plate for the surface here I raised The Zed before I move it to the next location so I've gone once around you're probably best served to go a second time around and just double check because you know as I'm making adjustments to these other three corners here I am impacting that corner there as well so now that we've leveled all the corners and uh checked our Z offset we can go to the main menu and go to leveling and now it will actually probe the surface of the bed for us you can put G29 your start g code to make sure that you do a bed leveling probe every time you print or you can do a leveling which will save the mesh and it'll reload the mesh on every print once that's done we're going to throw in this micro SD card here into the front over here yep in the front over here and we're going to print the pre-sliced files [Music] so in front of me I have two test prints from our ender3 Neo we also printed the factory file and then it went missing but once we were convinced that the factory file printed fine we moved on to slicing our own we used prusa slicer and loaded the default profile for the ender3 Neo and use those settings and just modified the temperature to 200 I think for our value pla which is shown here in silver so this print here is a drawbridge I believe this piece kind of like raises and the drawbridge can raise as well so clearances are very good everything moves as expected so that's good kind of quick test of tolerances and there's no print defects at all to speak of in this print it's very happy with that one this here is kind of a planetary gear setup it's printed in place of course and from a clearance perspective everything spins as as expected so again good tolerances are good no print defects to speak of on this one you will see a little bit of kind of pock marks or zits instead of lining up the Zed seam all in one zipper in a line they're kind of spread out throughout the prints you will see tiny little dimples where that retract happens at the end of the layers but I'm not complaining at all so hopefully you found that useful and enjoy your new Ender 3. remember like And subscribe and ring that Bell to get notified when we upload more content thanks for watching [Music]

Channel: 3D Printing Canada

Views: 18,521

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Id: 86hyDhsGVm4

Length: 14min 33sec (873 seconds)

Published: Mon May 29 2023