Creality CR-10 Smart - 3D Printer - Unbox & Setup

hey guys in this video we're going to be taking a look at the creality cr10 smart and this being the latest iteration from creality as a smart printer so i am pretty excited to see what this thing's all about so in this video we're going to unbox it set it up and do some prints so hopefully you enjoy the video let's get started [Music] uh [Applause] [Applause] [Music] all right so the cr-10 here comes in this box it's pretty decent size they got a little picture here what it looks like the box measurements here on the bottom which is 66 by 57 by 29 centimeter so yeah not small but also not too big and the weight on the shipping label is 18 kilograms which is 40 pounds so it has a pretty good weight to it all right so let's go ahead and open it up and this is what we see on top we do have a page here that shows some kind of cautions saying recommended to use creality software and apparently pretty important to have this start a g-code if you want to use another slicer you could and use the code here all right so we got the typical black foam that's soft very nice and this is what it greets us so you guys probably can't see this too well but i'm going to go ahead and pull things out here one by one so we got the manual here and it is separately wrapped we got 200 grams of white pla on a spool which is really nice we also get a full kilogram of appears to be white pla from saintsmart and by the way this is where the printer came from all right so we got some smaller stuff up here looks like the bowden tube our ac power cord decent length looks like part of the spool holder and what's nice about this thing if you guys can see maybe but the middle actually rolls separately from the outside part here so that's kind of like it's got bearings basically that's very cool i'll definitely like that we also get a spatula it is somewhat sharpened so all right so this looks like the other part of the spool holder so creality's been using this design here on its latest printers and it works pretty good we got a rubber foot under here but this part here is actually metal definitely feels more robust than usual so i definitely like this better than the clip-on kind so yeah all right so here we have a couple braces looks like and these are for supporting the top of the printer the gantry it doesn't wobble around so this should give us a lot of stability all right here we have something pretty cool which is the looks like touch screen display there's a protective layer on there take that off a little bit but yeah it looks like a horizontal kind so i'm pretty excited to see what the ui looks like and also to mention that it is quite large so that's nice all right so we got a few more things in here well i guess just this which is our hardware some bolts that's pretty much it and we can go ahead and take this layer off and you guys probably won't see this but this thing is packed very well see if i can tip it over foam on the sides and the printer nestled there in the middle with the gantry on top of it so yeah very well packed and it looks like it's pretty much pre-assembled just the two main parts that we have to connect together so all right so let's pull the gantry out and this is what it looks like very nice i love the attention to detail here on everything very cool looking shroud here on the hot end smooth face the rails and you guys can see we have dual z-axis lead screws and i guess most importantly we are tethered here with the belt on the top which is very important for the dual z very happy to see that all right so the base is the last part pretty heavy and very nicely built just the initial here impressions is very high quality kind of materials everything's heavy duty and it's even thinner than i think i've ever seen before for especially this large printer and it's got plenty of weight so we got a mix of metal and plastic construction but overall feels very solid and there appears to be a door here in the front too okay there is and it's actually very large not so deep obviously but wow look at that there are some tools and other things so we get snippers we get a double sided eight and ten millimeter open wrench we get the nozzle wrench a usb adapter to microsd and whatnot else full size sd card a gig a cleanout needle looks like extra parts nozzles and clips and we also get a set of hex wrenches or allen wrenches that are in their own little housing so that's nice and organized very cool so i love how creality presents itself and this tray here is very convenient now you could take off the foam here and just kind of you know throw everything in there and you'll have a little more room but if you want to have it organized like this it looks very nice put that back in but yeah we're going to take a closer look at all the details here in a bit let's go ahead and move it out of the way and you guys can see the box is empty here and as usual here for creality very well packed and i think the first thing i want to do let's see if we can do this safely is i want to flip it around upside down maybe like this and you guys can see the bottom of the machine and what i want to do is i want to take off this cover here in the back so we can see on the inside the electronics and the power supply well i guess i should have grabbed my tools while they were not upside down and surprisingly it all still stays in i guess it has its own little spot and actually one detail i missed was on the back here you guys can see but there's a magnet here it actually magnetizes so when you close it i guess the the lid stays closed so really nice attention to detail there and speaking of attention to details i know some people think reality is losing their way and whatnot else and they're you know not innovating as much you know yeah i can feel like that somewhat especially with a bunch of printers coming out and they're pretty much all the same they just have different little features here and there but i do have to say that it seems like reality still makes a pretty solid printer whenever they come out with one and you do have innovation it's just not big enough you know to really be like wow because you know if you think about it 3d printers have been around for a good five years of like really good innovation so we kind of now are being saturated by very many different kinds and brands and everyone's wanting the slice of the pie i guess so it's a little harder to separate yourself i guess from everybody else but me personally you know i see a lot of 3d printers i still really like reality and feel like they're usually one of the more solid choices these days but yeah there's a bunch of little bolts here i'm going to take out and hopefully this cover here pops right off all right so after taking quite a few little bolts out let's see if this cover comes off well there we go and it looks like we do have a fan connected to it on one of the ends here we'll just lay that over all right so let's start here with the power supply so the supply here is reality branded which is interesting it is the slim kind so it does look pretty much identical or at least very similar to the meanwhile one and just branded reality now and it is the 350 watt 24 volt you guys can see how all the connections are nicely routed and crimped so let's go here from the back so this is our power input socket it is fused with on and off switch and the wires coming out of that so it looks like we do have the power wire going here through this relay and this probably has to do with the automatic on and off maybe here we can see the y stepper motor and yeah everything is laid out very good and we have a cut through here for the wires to go to the main board and they do have little caps here on the ends to keep the sharp edges from cutting the wire so that's nice attention to detail everything is nice and smooth here so as we continue we got quite a few things going on here so we got the main board and you guys can see the stepper drivers and everything is integrated which is fine i guess looks like reality board obviously and we can see the version there so yeah i'm guessing this is their newer board and it is also fused so yeah it looks like we have an arm processor but it's quite a bit smaller than you know the older one so yeah this is definitely newer stuff there looks like so here we have another board and not too sure exactly what this is but it does look like it's part of the wi-fi here because we've got some antennas and there's a sd card in here also so and also our network cable plugs into here so this must be some kind of networking board and looks like another board here and appears to be just a power distribution board maybe of some sort but in any case yeah very interesting overall and we have that large fan that's on the other side that cools off the main board so yeah a lot more stuff here than usual we see a creality and that's the box here that where our tools go in so it's like a separate little cubby so yeah overall it looks pretty impressive and pretty clean for this cr-10 smart so i'm going to go ahead and put the lid back on and we'll start the assembly all right so the lid is on and while we're under here i just want to show you guys these really nice squishy feet and there's one on each corner like reality uses they're like a pretty heavy rubber but they're also pretty squishy so and we do have a vent there for that fan and another vent for the power supply and also you guys can see on each side of the printer this is where our bolts are going to go through into the gantry two on each side all right so i got to flip that around and the first thing i'm noticing is what we need to do is adjust the build plate here or the rollers underneath because it is completely loose but before we do that let's go ahead and take off this build surface which is a glass so there's a couple knobs here that release it should come right up i think okay there we go so yeah it's literally a piece of glass with a perforated style coating that basically sticks when it warms up and then as it cools off makes the prints pop right off so yeah usually these work really good and the best part about it because it's glass it's pretty flat so you guys can see we got a pretty large aluminum plate here and yeah so what we need to do is we need to adjust our rollers under here we're gonna need our tool the open-ended wrench hopefully i can show you guys here it might be a little hard to see but yeah you could probably see there's one two three rollers and there's three on the other side now the good part is is that there's only rollers on the outside of the bed so well i guess that's a good and a bad thing but i feel like it's a good thing because it's much easier to adjust them than if you had even rollers on the inside which some printers do and that gets extremely tricky so this shouldn't be too hard we got all adjustable on this side and two stationary and one adjustable in the middle on the other side so let's go ahead and start with this side that's adjustable and bring you down so i don't have to raise this thing up all right hopefully you guys can see that a lot better so yeah we're just gonna spin this first one here until we get some tension so we're just gonna get close and go to the next one because we're not sure how much you know the rest of them need to move so they're all very loose small amount of play so now we're just going to finesse it starting here with the back and basically what you want is you want the wheel to barely squeeze into the channel because you don't want it to squeeze too hard if you're going to have too much pressure against the channel it's going to eat up the wheel real quick because the you know the wheel is plastic so yeah that feels pretty good for that one let's move on to the next one now remember that a little looser is better than too tight so as long as you have no play on the bed that's all that really matters but looser is always better than tighter for these rollers so yeah once you get all that adjusted move it back and forth make sure everything is smooth and it's not wobbling back and forth so if everything looks good then we're done with this alright so for the next part let's grab our manual we do get some pretty cool creality stickers and this is what our manual looks like so yeah as usual very nicely laid out tells us here all the parts of the printer all the included contents and our assembly instructions so yeah it looks like here for the first part we're going to be connecting the upper frame which is the gantry to the base with four of the bolts and the bolts that we're looking for in this bag the dark ones hopefully you guys can see maybe but the gantry is literally going to sit right here and then the bolts are going to go underneath so let's go ahead and grab it and set it over just like that now the best way to do this is probably get the side of the printer here off the edge of the table so you can get underneath yeah literally just going off the edge of the table and now we can grab our bolt and go from the bottom so this makes it a lot easier i'll go ahead and grab my wrench i can run him down a little quicker so i'm not going to tighten it yet i'm just going to snug it barely because we need to go ahead and do the other side and also it'd probably be a good idea if we look up here guys this belt here that connects the two z-axis if we can just turn it you can see the whole gantry can come down or the x-axis here and the reason we want to bring it down is because we want the distance here on the bottom between the two rails to be you know as close as possible down there before we tighten everything because this is where most of our printing is done we want it to be the most accurate down here so here you're going to lower it down as close as we can down here or all the way down whatever and we'll put the bolts in here so yeah this printer is actually not very difficult to put together this is our main piece here i'm just connecting the gantry and then the rest is more of the smaller things which shouldn't be very difficult at all so if you are new to 3d printing and are somewhat intimidated by installation this one should not be very hard at all all right so we can go ahead and tighten this side up really good so don't go crazy because we do have those braces but you know pretty snug and i'll go ahead and snug up this side all right so for the next part we're going to be installing the pull rods they call them which is the braces and it's quite simple where they go so here we are looking at one of the sides on the back and you guys can see there's a thread right there at the end so this is where it's going to go on one side and then the other to the top and this is what the rods look like so they are adjustable and this is our hardware we get some longer bolts and shorter ones the shorter one goes to the top and the longer ones with the washer go on the bottom here so yeah it doesn't look like it matters which side is up they look to be the same so if you need to you can unscrew some thread here grab an allen wrench okay so i think i'm doing this wrong just by looking at it here i think the washer needs to go on the other side here so we need to put the bolt through and then put the washer on the other end yeah that makes a lot more sense there we go so the washer is kind of helping it you know not fall through the hole here on the crack that definitely looks more correct so yeah i mean we're pretty good here now before we go ahead and you know tighten it here anything too much we need to uh kind of see if we need to you know screw it in a bit or screw it out but yeah we just have to work with both ends so this side looks pretty good let's go to the other side what i meant to say is to the top here and yeah i'm just to grab the shorter bolt and it's going to go on the outside like this so the way you want to do this is you want to line this up you know as close as possible to that without trying to force it either one way or the other like pushing or pulling so what we're going to do is we're going to you know adjust this part here until we line up perfectly with the thread there so if you have to unscrew it also the whole thing from the bottom to go up or down so depending you know how much thread you got on each side so yeah it looks like we need a little more here all right so that looks perfect so what you want is this thing to be exactly where it wants to be and then just connect the brace so to solidify that position so that looks good right there i'm gonna tighten it up just a little bit here all right and we can grab our wrench here and use it to lock the locking nut down so it doesn't unscrew and same thing down here tighten up this bolt all the way and then lock the nut in and that's it we are very very solid here on this brace so i'm going to go ahead and do the other side exactly the same way all right so this is what it should look like looking here from the back so yeah and the printer now is extremely sturdy so yeah these things really do help with keeping the top from moving around all right so for the next part looks like we need to put on the spool holder and it goes over here somewhere or right about here so this pool holder comprises of these two pieces so the hinge i believe goes like this so basically like this and then it folds over to tuck away and so our spool holder part needs to go on this way and just twist right on pretty simple and i really love this rolling part of it yeah so we do have two t-nuts here that'll go into the channel here on the side that'll hold it so yeah we're just gonna loosen the bolts where the t-nuts can move around and then we're going to line up the t-nuts into the channel might be a little tricky but if you put them flat they should go right in and just like that so it looks like we need to be on the edge of this channel here with the front edge here of this bracket so right about here so yeah with the t-nuts we're just going to unscrew the bolt and then screw it back in and it should lock it in actually quite hard to do with this angle so yeah very uncomfortable to try to turn those little bolts with barely any room so yeah a little bit unconvenient seems like could have been maybe a better way but all right so it looks like i pretty much got it now a little bit of fiddling around but not too bad any case that seems like about where it goes so yeah so you know our spool is going to go on here and then it's going to feed into the filament detector here so as long as it's pretty close should be good and unfortunately we can't fold over but it does go to the side a bit since it hits this brace here so no big deal all right so our spool holder is on and this is what it looks like all right so for the next part we're connecting our touch screen so yeah this is the touch screen display here and it looks like all we got to do is plug in a plug which is taped here so that shouldn't be too hard it's kind of in a awkward place but not too hard to plug though so yeah just like that and i think it just slides right over these little bolts here just kind of interesting way of doing it so yeah literally just lines up on there and then push it down to lock it in very interesting so not the sturdiest yeah just keep in mind it's easy to kind of bump it if i just touch it from the bottom you can see it's already trying to go up yeah i guess as long as you know you don't bump it too much should be fine but yeah this thing looks really nice here up front all right guys and that looks like everything for the assembly part so i was just talking about plugging everything in here and the power cord and then we got bed leveling instruction so yeah as you can see not too complicated now the next part a little intimidating but it's really not because everything plugs in quite simply so let's just go to the side here first well i guess let's start over here underneath and maybe you guys can see there we have the optical sensor so there's a little wire that comes out actually i'm going to go ahead and bring this up a bit so yeah some of the wires are taped here on the side we got the motor wire which is that white one that's going to go to the side here on the back to the motor but the darker one here goes to the z-axis sensor let's go ahead and plug that in maybe tuck it in where it doesn't get in the way of anything maybe we can use this tape that was included and just to hold it here on the side that way it definitely doesn't go anywhere we don't want it to go so the motors actually plug in from the inside flip it around enough but let's go ahead and go to the side here which is where our main wire that comes out from the base here plugs into this junction box and this is obviously quite simple just going to plug it in and they should match up just like that and here you guys can probably see the motor plugs a little easier so there's one here and then one over there it's going to plug into the motor and this other one is taped plug into the other side and actually maybe we can go ahead and use this tape to keep it down also all right so yeah i think that is everything to plug in so there's not much to plug in so not very difficult at all to figure out what plugs in where and we can go ahead and put our build plate back on so whoops i'm about to put it upside down but yeah it simply just slides into these little clips in the back but before we do that let's go ahead and peel off the protective layer so yeah you don't want to touch the build surface here with your hands for sure especially after building the printer it's probably got some grease on it but yeah it just sits in like that and then these little locking clips like in the bed and simple as that it is on so yeah that was a pretty easy assembly i would say quite easy to put together now looking at it i totally forgot that we never looked at the rollers here on the gantry so they actually feel pretty good and this one is a little tight on this side and on the yeah and the hot end is completely loose so let's go ahead and adjust that real quick and the way these rollers adjust is there's an eccentric nut on the inside here and so this one actually feels good this one is too tight so i'm just going to loosen this side a little bit and see what happens all right that's feels a lot better better tension so yeah the best way to gauges is you got to be able to spin the rollers stationary if they're too tight and you can't spin them you got to loosen them up just a bit but yeah on the gantry here going up and down it's okay to be a little tighter because they don't move up up and down you know a lot compared to let's say the y axis constantly going back and forth and the x here so yeah all right so i'm happy with that let's go to the hot end it's completely loose so the eccentric nut is on the bottom so we're going to tighten it up a bit here okay that's too tight back off just a bit there we go and that feels perfect so you want there to be friction and you can still spin the roller that's the main thing you can't spin the roller that means you're way too tight now we're going to check it all right and that feels really smooth and there's obviously no wobble so there we go so that's how you adjust rollers not too hard but you know if you're confused take your time until you get it right because this is quite important to get good print quality and you know long life out of these parts here all right so let's take a closer look at the cr-10 smart and you guys can see it's a very large printer or pretty large it's filling up this desk pretty much front to back and it is quite tall also so keep that in mind it is a pretty nice looking printer looks very polished and has a nice aesthetic to it so let's start here at the top we can see we got a creality logo very nice finish on the front of the channels smooth a lot of pieces are metal and pretty heavy duty like these brackets here flipping the printer around we could see the back side little guides here with bearings in them that's for the lead screw and also you guys can see there is a gear here for the belt and that's to tether the two lead screws together and that is very important for a dual z-axis setup you definitely want to have this belt so very happy to see that we can see the braces that we installed they go all the way down to the back here and it definitely makes the printer very stable so the top doesn't move back and forth pretty much at all so it's very solid so let's go ahead and go down from there we can see that these brackets here are metal and we've got brass bushings same thing on this side but here we have the extruder assembly and this is the mechanism that reality uses it's one of those interesting kind that kind of like move the whole top i don't know if you guys can see but it's moving the whole top here back and forth so i think like this it's locked in and like this you open it up to feed it through i remember this creality cr6 had this and i had some trouble with it so we'll see how this one goes we got the extruder motor underneath and on top here we have the filament detector and it does have a brass fitting inside so that's nice not going to wear out you guys can see the junction box here is completely covered injection molded plastic very nice attention to detail this is our x-axis motor here and this really nice cool looking cover it covers up the gearing here going down from there we got the two z-axis motors and looking down we can see the rails is made out of two pieces three rollers on each side are compressed around and that's how the bed holds itself our y-axis and stop switch the y-axis motor with the gear under there the adjustments on the other side we'll take a look at that in a second very nice strain relief on the heated bed wire here that comes out and then goes right in into the body we have a nice solid frame there for the bed assembly and it is a heated bed but it is not insulated so might take a little longer because of the size but see how that does and here we have the ac input port that is fused with an on and off switch so yeah i'm still pretty impressed how thin this base is it's very thin and also here we have the manufacturing sticker you guys can see the print volume is 300 by 300 by 400 so yeah very nice size and the weight is 14 kilograms which is about 30 something pounds so all right so we'll flip back around let's go ahead and look at this x-axis assembly here so we have the x-axis and stop switch in this little box here this is very nicely presented here very clean you guys can see this piece here piece of metal it's an optical sensor here and that's the z-axis and stop switch there we have the extruder with the bottom tube coming out and the wiring into the hot end and we do have a little clips here on the bottom tube on each side that's nice to see so it won't move around and the hot end is quite interesting especially the casing here so appears to be pretty typical reality stuff in there just the cover itself is quite different you guys can see how much air there is on this side so this whole part here is just for aesthetics i can stick my finger in there so yeah i think it's mostly just for looks it does look pretty good we've got a little crowley logo there in the front so underneath we can see the fan duct for parts cooling and our nozzle there with a silicone sock so yeah pretty interesting looking design here for the hot end we'll see how well it does so another important thing to note that we haven't really talked about is that we do have tensions here on the belts pin this little knob here and it makes the belt tighter or looser so yeah this is a really nice little feature here to quickly tighten or loosen your belt you got to be really careful because you don't want to over tighten them if you over tighten them you're going to have a lot of vibrations in the print so you want to be barely tight that's kind of hard to explain but just make sure you're not playing music on the belt so and same thing for the y here in the front we've got the same tensioner here and we can kind of tell like i think mine is a little bit too tight right now they probably send them like extra tight from the factory because they will loosen up over time just sitting so that feels a lot better now but yeah you can experiment with this you know make them tighter and looser and see how your print quality goes so and probably the best part of the printer is this really large build plate which is glass with the perforated dimples there that when they heat up it'll stick and then when it cools off the prints should just pop right off so and having the 300 by 300 by 400 is quite a large volume guys it should accommodate a lot of the projects that you would do so in the front here we got some qr codes some warnings more qr codes here we've seen the tray already very cool little tray that's magnetic so yeah definitely love that very cool design on the whole printer got this really futuristic kind of look here looks like we have a sticker for the sd card peel that off and that exposes the slot and next to that we got the screen itself which is a touch screen and it's quite large let's go ahead and peel this protector off of it a very nice screen for sure i haven't seen this kind of screen on reality i'm pretty excited to see the ui on it now if we go to the right side of the printer again check out that really low profile very nice here we have the usb port the ethernet port and also a button that looks like is for the power so and to the left side of the printer there's not much here just that spool holder that we saw earlier which unfortunately doesn't really fold over like it's supposed to unless i'm not doing something right but the brace seems to be in the way and if i go too much this way then it's not going to center up well with the filament detector here and if i go too much that way it's going to be definitely in the way of wires and things like that so yeah not a big deal just kind of didn't really make sense seems like was an afterthought maybe because of the braces so yeah overall very interesting printer and quite modern feeling and i can't wait to power it on and try it out so all right so let's go ahead and power this thing on i got the cord plugged in in the back so i'm going to hit the switch back there and nothing happens so that means we have to hit this big switch here on the side the silver one i'm gonna go ahead and do that all right so boots up looks like got a nice reality logo there there we go so yeah looking at this ui here it looks definitely different than the usual or at least the more budget printers like the ender 3 version 2 and things like that so so here looks like we have a big plus button i think that's to access the files on the card that we haven't put in yet but here on the side we can see we got home prepare settings and the leveling so let's go ahead and go to prepare and what i want to do first is i want to home the machine and make sure all the axes work so let's go ahead and hit the home here and there it goes it's moving around so we got the x the y and the z coming down well actually done i guess the z doesn't home with that so we do have a separate home for the z i guess let's try that i'm going to click that okay so it goes to the middle and i think the reason it does this is because it has the pressure sensor here and the tip of the nozzle meaning there's a mechanism inside here that uses a pressure sensor to do the leveling or you know once it touches the bed so yeah sure enough that's what it did it actually touched the bottom of the bed going back down yes okay so the pressure sensor in there looks like it's working also and the gap that it's got right now is pretty much perfect now one thing that i haven't mentioned yet which is quite interesting about this printer is the bed is actually not adjustable at all the way it comes is the way it is there's no way to you know spin some knob here and lift or lower a corner the way it works is it uses the out of bed leveling system to get all the different measurements of the bed and that's how it knows you know when to compensate depending on where it is so now i think before we activate that let's go ahead and raise this thing up a bit what i want to do is i want to preheat the bed itself but not the nozzle because we don't want the nozzle to be hot right now for the automatic bed level so let's see we have some functions here axis movement feed return okay so we got different screens here to choose from on the bottom and start temperature preheat abs or preheat pla so yeah lots of options here okay so it's gonna hit on pla preheat we're gonna be 260 on the bed which we need to not probably preheat this at all so we'll just go to zero for the nozzle okay it doesn't like that okay let's just click on cool down and just click on the bed and enter sixty and there we go now we just have to bet so yeah you can click on these little options here to select what you want to you know preheat so very interesting i definitely like the setup it looks a lot more mature and a lot more professional and if we click home we can see that we can still see you know all of our important parameters here so so the bed is set to 60 and it's at 42 right now so we're going to give it a little time here to get hot and right here we can see we got the z axis offset at 0.20 so this must have been set already from the factory maybe but let's go ahead and click on the leveling here on the bottom and you guys can see all of the points here on the bed where it's going to measure and it looks like it goes in this kind of pattern and i think it's smart enough to know what to do with the nozzle embed because it's actually saying here to wait till you know gets to zero so let's just go ahead and start it so we're gonna click on start okay so it actually wants the nozzle to 120 on its own so yeah this thing is smart enough to adjust everything as you need it we didn't have to go back and try to pre-heat anything so okay so we're just waiting for the nozzle to get to 120 and it should go to the next step here all right looks like it's moving around again so it's going to the center and it's taking a measurement there and now it looks like it's going to go through the pattern and you guys can see here it's on number one and now it's going to number two so the blocks light up as it takes those measurements and while it's doing that guys i want you to hear the printer overall it's pretty quiet mostly just fan noises it definitely has silent steppers because the movements are very quiet so yeah i wouldn't say ultra silent printer but definitely on the quiet side all right and i'm guessing that is it for the bed leveling so because all our blocks here are filled out and i guess colored in that means it has the measurements saved all right so let's check out the settings here so in the settings we have pla preheat abs preheat lighting control i don't know what kind of lighting we got here okay so there's some led lights okay i didn't even know about that if you guys can see maybe over here to the side there's some lights shining very cool i guess we'll leave those on one touch shut down okay so that shuts down the whole thing i don't know that was a good idea to do or not but so yeah as you guys can see that's the smart shutoff feature that it has so it can shut off using the software let's power it back on here see in the settings we were put the light back on you can restore factory and restore that work here we have languages quite a few and about the machine cr-10 smart firmware screen version and the print volume here 300 by 3x4 so yeah very nice yeah so pretty actually intuitive ui here not very hard to use so we got prepare axes movements our filament feeder and also our temperature that we can preheat let's go ahead and preheat for pla we'll go back to the feed here but i think we need to move the z up a bit so let's do that go back to feed let's go ahead and install some filament so i don't want to print and white on our first prints so let's just use this red here that i have grab our snippers we do have a little lock you gotta unlock and we'll cut this on an angle so i definitely love this drawer so this is a full kilograms pool and it's gonna sit right here and man this bearing is super good look how easy that turns that's crazy i definitely like that so yeah we're gonna go through the filament detector and it does light up blue here on the top you guys probably can't see that and then into the extruder mechanism which we're going to unlock in the back and i'm going to go ahead and push it all the way through the bowden tube here and out the hot end so be the fastest way and you guys can see it's purging down there very easy and now we just gotta not forget to lock in the extruder mechanism so just let the lever back down and that should be it so we should be pretty much ready to go guys so let's grab our sd card totally forgot that it was in here so it plugs right here full size card very nice and it's upside down looks like yep sure enough it is and it does click in there so let's go home and i guess we're gonna push this big plus button here and looks like there's nothing on here well no big deal we'll just uh jump to the computer next and we'll check out what's on the sd card and also maybe try to slice something too all right guys so here we are at the computer and i got the sd card plugged in let's go ahead and open it up and we can see that there are definitely folders in there and i'm guessing the printer could not read them so yeah we've got a user manual in pdf form software and drivers so this is you know if you want to install the reality slicer so this is probably going to be the best bet if you don't already use cara but we're going to try cura here we've got troubleshooting so let's see what this is about so it's a pdf just kind of explaining the trouble you can have and how to resolve it this could be i guess useful if you're having trouble and then we've got model here and this is where all our g codes are look how many there are two so yeah and then we got operational video which is a video from creality i guess which is actually pretty good if you want to you know get the overall quick view of it so let's go to model and i think what we need to do i'm not going to print all this let's just pick one i mean we know the dog pretty well and it's not that long two and a half hours looks like so let's just do this one so i'm going to pull it out and then i'm going to drop it back in here on the top on the front so hopefully we can see it and read it now but while we're here let's go ahead and open up cura and see if we can't figure out really quick how to slice our own file for this printer correctly so what you're going to do is you're going to click over here where you got your printer selected i'm going to add another printer and then we're going to go to non-network printers then we're going to scroll down until we get to creality a bunch of printers out there guys and obviously they don't have the smart model in here yet but looking at all these i'm guessing the 10 s is probably going to be our best bet so let's just go with that open it up so this is basically all of our parameters 300 by 300 by 400 everything here looks good now the thing that we really need to check is the starting g code this is going to be the important part and i don't know why my window is so small i can't even make it bigger in any case guys hopefully you can see that going through all of these g-codes the only difference that i see between this and the g-code that they provided with that paper that we saw earlier was this part here on the very top where it says e5000 actually needs to be e 500 see so we're just going to delete one zero and it would be e500 because we got x 500 y 500 and z 100 and the e is 500 so this extruder is not at 5000 but at 500 so that's the only really difference i see the main thing here is this g28 home this is like you know the main part here i think that they really want you to have so the printer doesn't go anywhere but stay i think in the middle but in any case i think that's all we really needed and this should probably work so let's just go with that and we'll go ahead and slice our own print let's go ahead and throw in a calibration cube that's going to be a good little start and if we look at our parameters here they're probably reset so we need to go over them really quick and we'll keep the layer height at point two and everything else looks good here now the wall line count should be at three because the walls turn out much nicer that way top layer should be five i'm getting a more solid top four is fine for the bottom usually for me everything else i'm just gonna leave it the way it is twenty percent of the info let's just change that to 15 so it's a little quicker 200 on the nozzle and 50 on the bed i do like 60 on the bed especially for these types with the perforated it seems to stick a little better print speed will keep at 50 as our base and yeah guys pretty much everything else is the same here we have retraction so because we have bowden tube i think we need to change this to 6.5 it's about the usual and more importantly this from 45 which is the speed to 25 i think that's correct and then we got cooling here skirt 3 which is what i like and that's pretty much it we have special modes here for spiralized mode once we do that but other than that that's all i do guys i pretty much use just the basic generic settings that every printer pretty much uses and i like to use this because it kind of gives me a baseline of you know depending more on the mechanical abilities of the printer than you know trying to finesse it with the slicer so i believe that basic settings that come with you know the printer itself should be already very good in any case let's go ahead and slice it and you guys can see here is 35 minutes so we're going to save to removable it's going to go straight to our sd card and we're not going to inject it yet and the reason for that is because i'm going to go ahead and slice exactly the same settings here obviously the benchy so yeah everything is going to be exactly the same i'm going to slice that and you guys can see it's only two hours and two minutes for this benchy and we are good to go ejecting it so let's go back to the printer and print out some of these prints all right so let's go ahead and plug in our sd card and hopefully it works this time we'll click the plus here and look at that we got some files the ones we sliced and the dog file that we dragged in there so let's go ahead and start with the creality dog there that came with the printer and then we'll print the calibration cube and the benchy for the benchmark so i'm going to click on the dog and then push play and looks like it started so right now it's heating up the bed for some reason to only 45 we should probably change that that's not going to be a good outcome i don't think so let's do 55 so it's preheating the bed first and i'm guessing then it's going to pre-heat the nozzle actually we should go ahead and probably turn on our little light there let's see where's that at oh wait we can't even do anything now okay well that's kind of weird i can't do anything it's stuck in this menu here well hold on okay so if we click here on the any of these things you have this menu here that you can control certain things so we got the nozzle the bed the print rate which is how fast it's going is at 100 right now uh the lighting turn that on so it does turn on fan control is checked and then we have finished shutdown so we can actually get the printer to shut down after it finishes so let's go ahead and click that and see if it actually works so once it's done it should just turn off completely and i guess that's one of the smart features there and the best thing probably here is what we have is the z-axis compensation which is the offset and we're at point two zero right now and we can go up and down so once the print starts you know if it's too low or too high we can adjust it on the fly right here all right yeah so these things don't do anything on the side when you start printing and we have the file name here percentage finished and the time which is two minutes so far since it started so looks like we've heated up on the bed now the nozzle's starting to heat up so yeah as you guys saw there it took about two minutes or so for the bed to heat up it was completely cold maybe like two and a half and the nozzle is also taking its sweet time so yeah probably gonna be four minutes plus on you know just getting started and there it goes and yeah it looks like it's definitely like four and a half minutes for it to start so let's see what it does it's probably gonna probe the middle sure enough that's what it's doing okay that's way too high i can see it so i need to go ahead and lower that down probably good right there all right so it is printing everything looks good it did take a little bit to get started and they did slice this with the z-hop which i really don't like but anyways it is what it is i guess we'll see what comes out yeah see if i can zoom you guys in a bit more but yeah overall looks like no issues and it's doing a great job so there is a little bit of sound from the motors but it's very ever so slight so i'm going to bring the microphone in again so yeah pretty quiet mostly i would say fan fan noise is quite prominent here alright so we're going to let this print print out and we'll see how the little dog comes out all right guys so our first print is done with this little doggie here so the build plate here is cooled off completely so let's go ahead and see how easy it is to take it off and it's okay sure enough it just popped right off so this stuff works really good and our dog turned out really nice so let's take a closer look here and look at those reflections very nice layer adhesion notice how smooth everything sits now there's a little bit of stringing but that's just in the slicing but it's very minor here a little bit on the top too nothing too serious so yeah the layers went down beautifully you guys can see that reflection there pretty impressive actually but this is a cr-10 smart so we do expect good quality and we're definitely getting that reality quality here very cool so it does have a raft let's see how easy that comes off all right so they slice this thing really nice comes off easy yeah very happy about this so this gives me a lot of hope for this printer to be a pretty solid printer so far now speaking about pretty solid printer did have an issue that came up which is the display here i don't know if you guys can tell but there's some kind of weird artifacting going on in this side over here maybe just a defective display so yeah i just wanted to point that out but it's still usable you can go through everything just uh the display itself something's going on with it in any case so i'm going to change out the filament to a silky black that i normally do and we're going to print out a 3d benchy and a calibration cube and we'll take a closer look at those all right so i loaded up some black filament let's go ahead and start the calibration so i'm pretty curious if this is going to work hopefully our cr-10s i think is what it was profile there was going to work but i guess we'll find out here in a second all righty so far so good [Music] okay so it's purging that's normal so the offset looks to be just right also all right it might be a little too close let's see should probably go up just a little bit so i am quite a bit lower than i was earlier so i went back to point two and that seems to be right so that's what it was from the start i guess i'll leave it at that all right well everything looks good and it seems like the start worked just fine so yeah i'm gonna let this print out and we'll also print out a benchy and then we'll take a closer look at them so all right so our calibration cube is done and the benchy also and they both turned out really good so let's go ahead and look at the calibration cube here first so here we have the x-axis looks pretty good there's some slight vibrations but not too bad at all then we have the y which we do have a little bit of vibrations there and that's probably because our belt is too tight so i did loosen it for the benchy we'll see if it got any better our x wall here pretty good we can see you can see the infill a little bit through it and the white wall we can see the little vibration there so yeah overall very nice very solid the top and the bottom which i changed the layer height as it was printing so so let's go ahead and look at the benchy i haven't pulled it off yet see how easy it is oh that's amazing still surprised how well these beds work they grip when they're hot and they just let go when they're cool off so and you guys know that vinci's tend to pop off the build plate so yeah you guys can see it turned out really good you got the seam here overall very solid and very smooth layering guys so we can see a little bit of vibration still in the y but you know this bed is large and it's a piece of glass i guess it's quite expected but it did seem to get smaller because i did loosen the belt a bit but yeah it looks great got the box here also looks pretty good chimney looks nice everything is round we do have a little bit of stringing very small we've got six and a half retraction right now so maybe we should bump it up to seven but it's not bad at all just very fine here and this printer seems to be really delivering on the print quality and i honestly don't expect anything less from reality and they've been doing this long enough and they've been giving us pretty much excellent print quality with most of their machines you know they do have to be adjusted correctly and somewhat tuned but from my experience so far i've been very successful with reality machines and getting good prints now another thing i want to mention to you guys is about the screen again it does dim down when you don't touch it for a while so if i touch it it gets brighter so i'm going to go ahead and print out a few more models including spiralized mode and also we'll talk about the strengths and maybe some weaknesses of this printer so so a little update on the auto shut off it actually works you just have to wait about five minutes or so until it shuts itself off so yeah i guess if you power back on you're gonna click the switch here on the side okay yeah there we go you guys can see the screen still messed up so yeah very cool that the auto shut up does work all right so we do have another issue here and i'm printing the spaceship and spiralize mode as you guys can see there's like these steps so the printer is pausing and then continuing pausing continuing so yeah it's almost like it doesn't have enough memory or something but i did have the same problem on an ender 3 max before and someone suggested to turn off the power recovery so whenever you lose power it remembers the z height so i guess in this spiralized mode these newer machines are not able to use power recovery at the same time as you know using the spiralized mode in the slicer so let's go ahead and cancel this print because it's obviously a fail here i'm going to click stop confirm it moves to the side all right so i'm not sure exactly if we have this setting or not hopefully you guys can see this but let's go to settings let's see machine language device i don't really see anything okay so this is bed leveling so yeah i don't really see this feature here it doesn't give me a pretty deep configuration anywhere that i can see so yeah looks like we're out of luck with this thing which is kind of unfortunate to be honest we should be able to turn on recovery we don't even have control for the filament detector or simple things like that so yeah even though this ui here it looks nice it's quite limiting here compared to the old-school printers like let's say the the inter three max which still has the old-school layout there's probably a workaround maybe there'll be an update that you know you'd be able to fix this issue but right off the bat here i don't really see any options to make this work so i guess we're gonna have to skip the spiralized printing and go to my final thoughts all right and so here we are with the prints that we printed so let's go ahead and look at what we have so we've seen the little dog we've seen the benchy and the calibration cube those all turned out very well so let's go with the frog here so i like printing this print because it's quite small and petite and has quite a bit of detail here around like the fingers and the legs and the arms and you guys can see how well the layers are sitting on this frog so very nice and smooth beautiful print we got the stitching right on the back side as far as the layers go down i mean this is definitely reality good layers and even here underneath his chin it's really nice and clean so a tiny bit of stringing just barely so nothing serious which by the way everything was printed at 0.2 at 50 millimeters a second that looks really really good also impressive how well it sticks to the bed and pops right off when it cools off so another thing i really like printing is this bearing and this just shows you know how accurate the printer is because if this can spin because it's functional that means the printer is doing really good and yeah i was really impressed with this thing it spun right up basically so i didn't have to even put a wrench in it or anything i just kind of wiggled it a bit and it started spinning so yeah very accurate and it's very smooth like probably one of the best i've seen in a while so yeah this printer has definitely got accuracy now i think one thing you know that kind of is obvious if you guys can see there's a little bit of under extrusion here and there so yeah i think the printer is under extruding just a tiny bit and i have a feeling that gives it the accuracy too because these gears are actually a little bit looser than usual too so yeah but yeah very smooth and it just worked right off the build plate very nice now the other print i printed was the shark and this is a pretty cool print because it's multiple pieces that come together and you guys can see there's quite a few pieces that had to join and nothing broke loose the bed holds on pretty well it's quite impressive how well it works and it just pops right off when it cools but yeah this little shark here turned out really nice again the layers go down beautifully so 0.2 layer height still looking very very nice now the shark does have a mouth that's supposed to open i haven't tried to open it yet let's go ahead and grab these snippers and see if we can maybe pry it open okay so it looks like okay wow that was easy so the very tip of the middle tooth there was kind of grabbing on and then it just popped open all right well that was very easy normally it's a little harder than that so yeah again this printer's very accurate and yeah the mouth works perfect yeah the shark turned out great and as you guys saw earlier our spaceship did not print because of the spiralized problem so the astronaut and his buddy the squirtle there are pretty sad but that's okay not everything goes to plan always now let's look at the squirtle here so this is in silky silver and you guys can see this very nice we do have a little bit of vibrations but other than that the print looks quite stunning and this is a very very revealing kind of filament so yeah you would be able to see everything here and again i can see a tiny bit of under extrusion here and there but it's whatever so slightly so i don't know if it's just the printer needs to be calibrated a bit or maybe the extruder assembly that i talked about earlier having issues before maybe is not you know doing its job and we got the astronaut here our last print also very nicely printed layers set beautifully and you guys can see maybe around this m usually there's vibration but it's very clean so the helmet here looks good overall pretty good print but looking at it you know pretty close it does feel under extruded somewhat and that kind of shows up in the print a little bit it just feels like it has a little bit more layers than it needs to but of course this is point two so looking at the bottom here guys this is all we had just these few ridges here to hold on to the bed and it did held on no issues and printed out the whole print a very nice print overall i do have a little bit something here but unfortunately the astronaut is sad because he doesn't have a spaceship but overall the printer did an excellent job with putting the layers down so obviously you guys probably already know where i'm going to go with this thing i obviously like the printer i like the overall unboxing and the ease of putting it together and the material quality on the printer is top notch i would say reality does a great job with you know the overall feel and polish for what these printers are now one thing about this printer that it's kind of a little confusing is the name smart and i guess i kind of see where the smartness comes it does have this external switch where it can power itself off i guess that's smart power resume i mean that's smart but just about every printer has that um i guess the best smart part about it if that's smart is maybe the out of bed leveling and mine works perfect so it did probe the bed and then when it was printing something large i could see the z-axis adjusting as it was going around so that part works just fine and honestly perfectly because i mean it's literally perfect no matter where it's on the bed now another feature that probably makes this printer smart is the wi-fi capabilities or the wi-fi box i think is what it's called that's inside this printer and it's reality is basically way of connecting to it so i think that part is pretty intense and it even has bluetooth and things like that that you can really access the printer through your phone and your computer or wherever you are so i'm not too much of a software guy so i don't get into those things i'm more of a hardware person so i like simplicity in a way where the printer just works as you use it without you know giving you a headache or making you trying to figure out certain things i understand the wi-fi and the convenience of it but i still like the simplicity so this is why i still use sd card to slice and move files around but yeah if you are interested in a more advanced kind of connection this printer definitely has that so let's go over really quick of the great things about it so it does shut off when it's done so that's pretty smart the design of this thing is amazing i love the overall polished look and how it's built and the profile is very thin the 300 by 300 by 400 print volume is amazing i love the build plate with the perforated glass works excellent also like these adjustable tensions for the belts on the x and y the little cubby here with the tools very nice we also get silent steppers so the printer is actually very quiet but with that said the fans are a little too loud in my opinion we do get a full-size sd card slot that's cool and a pretty awesome large touchscreen display that mine has a little bit of an issue as you guys saw there and also i do like the sturdiness with the bracelets there in the back that keeps the printer very solid so printing something really tall is not an issue with vibrations not that we tested that out but some of the things that you know maybe are not that great is the extruder assembly here and the way it works i mean it seems to work fine but i would have preferred the older style maybe even like a dual gear extruder that would have been you know my preference also don't really love this pool holder because it's a little flimsy i do like the spinning part because it's really smooth but the flimsiness of it is not great the lights under here are kind of cool but they're very limiting and they don't really light up the printer or the printing area as well as you would hope for so yeah it's i guess okay and probably one of the bigger negatives is the fans are just too loud so it kind of makes the whole silence experience not that great and last but not least you guys see here we cannot print spiralize mode so something with the software there in any case guys as you can see here i think the printer overall is great for a person that knows what they're getting but i think if you're you know a little new to 3d printing and not too sure what to get you might want to skip this one not because it's not a great printer just because it's a little more complicated than it needs to be to enjoy 3d printing from your first time so if you're already seasoned and you know what you're doing i'm sure you can you know figure this thing out and get it exactly how you want it but yeah guys this is the cr10 smart so hopefully this video was useful to somebody it is a bit unfortunate that we weren't able to print everything we wanted but sometimes that's the way it goes so if you enjoyed this video then hit that like button and if you want to get a printer like this for yourself check out the links in the description and also go check out my other videos i have quite a few 3d printing unboxing and setting up videos that i think you'll find something interesting there and also if you made it to the end of the video i just want to say thank you for watching and supporting this channel i really do appreciate it so as always thanks for sticking around and i'll see you on the next one peace

Channel: Just Vlad

Views: 27,017

Keywords: 3d printing, 3d printer, 3d printed, creality cr-10, cr 10 smart review, creality 3d, 3d print, cr 10, cr-10 smart printer, creality cr-10 smart, 3d diy printer, creality 3d printer, cr-10 3d printer, cr10 printer, cr10 review, cr-10 smart 3d printing, cr-10 v2, creality cr-10 v2, cr-10 smart, creality 3d printer setup, creality cr-10 smart review, creality cr-10 smart 3d printer review, creality 3d cr-10 smart, cr 10 smart, 3d printing for beginners

Id: nASomewmJe8

Length: 61min 58sec (3718 seconds)

Published: Fri Aug 13 2021