Converting our RV Fridge to a High Efficiency DC Compressor- 8x More Efficient! and Better Cooling!

hey everyone I'm Tom Morten today my wife and I are going to be converting our existing RV propane electric refrigerator to an all electric compressor evaporator style units similar to what you'd see in a residential home and we're gonna be doing it ourselves before we get into the actual conversion let's talk a little bit about refrigerators that would be used in an RV there are two primary types that are used in an RV we talked more about this in a previous video that I will link below the primary types of refrigerators are the most common type is this that we currently have installed it is a propane / electric absorption refrigerator now this fridge works by actually using heat and not a compressor to run the refrigeration unit it's kind of a complex process of heating an ammonia water solution evaporating the ammonia re condensing it with hydrogen cooling it off and mixing it all back together and it's a closed-loop system and while it is kind of complicated it can work very well the most convenient feature of this type of refrigerator is that you don't need hardly any electricity to run the fridge at all if you're utilizing the propane burner all you need to do is control that with some electronics and a propane valve and it's an incredibly minimal draw on your battery and typically you can get a lot of runtime out of a propane tank the second style refrigerator used in an RV is more like a conventional residential refrigerator or actually a residential refrigerator this is becoming more and more common to put residential refrigerators in RVs these refrigerators run only on electricity as they use a compressor - compressor refrigerant it's a cycle of compressing the refrigerant into a liquid back to a gas the expansion of the gas cools off some fins and that's how it creates the cooling cycle the big benefit of going with this style refrigerator a lot of people are going with them because they can put a full-size residential refrigerator in the RV and get a lot more refrigeration space they also tend to be a lot more efficient compared to utilizing an electric heating element to run the absorption style refrigerator the big con to these fridges however is that they need electricity all the time so you either need to be plugged in with your RV or have an extensive solar system or generator to be able to power that fridge all the time so today we're gonna be using our existing refrigerator and converting it to the compressor style refrigerator and why might we want to do that our unit is getting old and not cooling so great anymore and this is something that actually can happen with RV refrigerators even when they're brand new the absorption style a lot of times the cooling is just not up to par for the amount of heat that it might be in outside these refrigerators reject the heat outside so that if it's really really hot outside it has a much harder time getting rid of that heat right now our fridge is hanging in the 50s which is not even sanitary it's not cold enough to keep bacteria from growing in your food and our freezer is hanging somewhere in the 20s which is just not cold enough to keep ice cream hard and well they keep stuff frozen it's not as cold as it should be now the cooling units in these refrigerators can be replaced and we could replace the propane electric absorption cooling unit in this fridge with another cooling unit and probably get better performance out of this this existing cooling unit is probably about seven years old in our fridge so we can put a new one in and probably see better performance now in our case we recently installed a large solar system on our RV we have about 1200 watts on the roof and about 5.2 kilowatt hours of battery storage capacity so putting in an electric fridge is not the end of the world for us so we started to think about what if we were to put in a residential fridge we would have to demo out this fridge probably do some modifications the RV itself and we can put a residential refrigerator in but there were some drawbacks to that first of all demoing this fridge out and changing the configuration of the RV would be a lot of work and we'd probably lose some storage while doing that secondly the residential refrigerators event their heat inside and while we typically are in warmer climates venting that heat into our RV was not real desirable for me as well lastly these residential refrigerators require 120 volts AC so that would mean that when we're off-grid which we are almost all the time we would have to keep our inverter on all the time we like to turn our inverter off when we're not using AC power and our rig to help save battery in doing some more research on options we came across the company called JC refrigeration in Shipshewana Indiana that manufactures a compressor style unit that will give us the benefits of the residential style cooling systems that is a retrofit for an existing gas electric model the retrofits also offer a super high-efficiency DC compressor so we can run it directly off the batteries and solar system without having to run our inverter the last reason that we chose to go this route is that while it's uncommon the propane fridges can potentially be a fire hazard in the back of your propane fridge you have a little flame that burns almost all the time one more reason that going with a compressor style fridge like this is a benefit to us is that we can keep it on all the time when driving a lot of people don't like to run the propane gas while driving down the road and technically you're not supposed to especially if you pull into a gas station there's a number of safety hazards so we are gonna be able to leave the fridge on with the compressor running all the time when going down the road now so we happen to be in the Shipshewana indiana area recently so we decided to go pick up one of these units directly from the manufacturer at JC refrigeration JC refrigeration is an aftermarket RV refrigeration specialist located in Shipshewana Indiana they hand manufacture high quality cooling units for RV refrigerators they got their start manufacturing cooling units for Amish propane absorption fridges but found a niche in RVs where they build a superior propane absorption unit with much greater cooling capacity during our visit we got to tour their facility where they manufacture and install cooling units for RVs we were blown away by their attention to detail manufacturing quality and pride they have in their work while their retrofit propane cooling units are some of the best on the market they recently have noticed interest in compressor electric cooling units and now offer what they call the HVAC unit that utilizes an AC or DC compressor as mentioned before we opted for the DC compressor and while they can install it at their location but they do offer a do-it-yourself kit which we chose as we could not be there with our RV we picked up our unit and headed home to install it so they'll put the unit in the box for you if you're picking it up or they can also ship these units go ahead and remove the packing material they specifically said that this unit needs to be tilted only forward as it's currently laid down right now you want to lift it up only in this direction you don't want to tilt it I decide it all or that direction at all because the coolant and the refrigerant and it needs to stay in the refrigerator in a certain way in the box of the unit you're also going to have an accessories box for the installation in the box you're going to find a tube of heat conductive thermal mastic a tube of great stuff foam insulation a roll of aluminum tape a number of screws and also a replacement fuse that will show you where it goes later as for the unit itself it is pretty straightforward down here at the bottom is the new compressor and basically what you're gonna do is this is just gonna plug into our existing refrigerators control unit when it used to turn on the gas or the electric unit now it is going to use that electric unit to turn on this compressor this compressor is crazy efficient compared to our current fridge as well this is a DC model they do make an AC model as well that you can choose between the AC or DC models we chose the DC model because this can utilize 12 to 24 volts of power our RV actually has a 24 volt battery so we'll be using it on 24 volts but you can also usually just use the existing 12 volt leads to your current fridge and plug this right into it because it draws so little power this draws around 60 watts of power and our current heating element our fridge draws around 400 watts of power the 120 volt version of this compressor draws a little bit more power I think it's somewhere around eighty to a hundred watts but it's still a fraction of what the existing propane electric unit will use if you were to go with that 120 volt version it's super easy all you have to do is plug it into the existing board where the 120 volt heating element plugged in previously the rest of the units pretty straightforward as well the unit compresses the gas and then it heats up in these fins here there's a fan to blow the air across these fins and reject the heat and this is all on the outside in the back of your refrigerator the coolant then runs up in to the evaporator this is actually using a capillary tube style evaporating unit here and on the back side here you can see the two areas where it runs first the coolant lines run up here on the back side of this plate and this is going to be connected to your free the coolant lines continue then down to the refrigerator section and these two are going to connect into the back of our fridge all this foam insulation and such is they're designed to be removable from the fridge this actually is the insulation for the back side of your refrigerator for this project we are going to be removing the refrigerator and laying it down on its face so that we can access the backside of it so in preparation for that we had to remove everything out of the refrigerator luckily we're in a place where we can utilize someone else's refrigerator for a couple of days while we do this after we removed everything we shut the refrigerator off so that it could thaw and now before we pull it out of its place we are going to show off the power and the propane to the refrigerator so I'm gonna actually pull the electric fuse for the fridge circuit a 12 volt circuit that the fridge is currently on so that we don't accidentally short anything out when we're working with it back there all right now we're gonna shut off the propane to the entire RV so now we need to get at the back of the fridge so you're gonna have to remove the access panel on the side of your RV as the fridge needs to be removed from the RV and you remove it to the inside we need to disconnect all the utilities from the fridge and that's going to entail well the AC is as simple as unplugging it from the outlet and I'm just gonna tuck this up here somewhere as it's gonna go with the fridge and the cooling unit as it moves forward disconnecting the DC from the fridge which is this wire right here this is the 12 volts electrical comes down here and we're just gonna take a screwdriver and disconnect the two terminals and we hold the fuse so this power is not live but nonetheless it's still a good idea to disconnect the positive wire first and pull it out from the terminal block and once you get the the wire out you're going to want to wrap it in some electrical tape so that if it was possibly live that it won't short to anything and also so that you know that this is the positive now we're gonna disconnect the propane I've just got myself a crescent wrench here I put it on there and of course it's seized on there all right let's get a second wrench on there now that we've got the propane the 120 volts and the 12 volts Electric disconnected the only thing holding the fridge in here is the anchor screws there are two of them in the back that I know of one is down here and one is on the other corner there we're gonna go ahead and remove them now all right so we got it all disconnected and before I walked away though I was looking over everything and it looks like this fridge had a fan kit installed after the fridge was put in there's this switch down here that has some wires they wrap all through all the other wires and go up behind the fridge this fan I don't think is actually connected to the fridge I think it's on the RV frame regardless I'm gonna have to make sure that none of this is connected to the fridge so the fridge can slide out without ripping out these wires crawlin up top and looking at the fans on top of the fridge it appears that the fans are actually connected to the fridge itself so everything should move together however this fan switch is attached to the wood in the back here are the RV so I'm gonna go ahead and remove the fan switch so that it can go with the with the fridge as well when we take it out now that we got everything disconnected on the outside we are back inside the rig and we need to disconnect the screws that hold it in on the inside to do that on this are on this fridge and some are going to be different there's a little top access panel here that you can disconnect with a screwdriver pressing it up it'll pop out and just come loose over here like so [Music] on the bottom of the fridge there are two more screws okay so now we're going to try to pry out the bottom of the fridge a little this is called a cat's claw that I'm using to fridge to move out alright it all looks good here everything's shifting that way we'll just keep on sliding it a little bit at a time now that the refrigerator is ready to come out all the way we've put down some cardboard and some towels to help Pat it on the floor because there are some sharp edges around this and we will be laying it down so the handle don't want anything digging into the floor and damaging that that's gross you see it clean okay now we got the fridge out now and we need to disconnect the fins inside from the existing cooling unit and that's this right here also we're gonna remove this thermistor wire and we're gonna remove all those screws because the only thing sticking out on our fridge is these handles I'm gonna go ahead and remove them and we'll tape the door shut so they don't fly open when we close them in the freezer section we're gonna remove the metal racking here and also this plastic cover on the back now we can see all the screws that hold the cooling unit onto the back we're gonna remove all of these all right we should be good now to tilt the refrigerator forward everything should be disconnected from the cooling unit in here so we'll tilt it forward take care of the rest on the back and then we should be able to remove the old cooling unit alright we've laid it down now we can get a good look at what we've got going on here one of the reasons this probably isn't working so well is this is super dusty just cleaning this off I bet would improve the performance of it but nonetheless we need to take all this stuff off the back of the fridge the first thing we're gonna do is remove the four screws that hold this on on each corner so this new unit is gonna reuse the computer control panel here but we're going to take off all the gas controls on it because that's not going to be functioning anymore so I'm gonna go ahead and remove the cover and start taking apart the wires so I'm gonna remove the control power and thermistor here this is what senses the temperature in the fridge and this is the one that actually powers the control board up top and we're gonna let them from the back of the fridge here so I've just decided to take everything off the board I think it's gonna be easier that way the board itself has everything labelled on it really nicely as to what it's used for all this extra stuff is not gonna be used anymore so we're just can set this aside I'll put it back together later all right so pretty much everything is disconnected we're just gonna remove the drain hose and I'm gonna set it down here in such a way that when we lift off the cooling unit it'll stay with the fridge everything else should be good how they recommend actually removing this unit is by taking a backing plate and using a piece of pretty thick aluminum here that I'm going to slide underneath these coils what this backing plate is gonna do is I'm going to use a pry bar to pry up on the coils which go in right here to the cooling unit which is this whole piece and this pry bar is where this backing plate is going to be protecting the existing fridge from my prying actions so for all the prying that I expected to need to do I just started to pull on this and it looks like the whole thing's just gonna pop right out pretty darn easily in one giant piece make sure everything is detached all right you just want to swing it down here all right well here we are old the new can you tell which ones which so with the absorption unit there's some major differences than our new unit of course over here this piece is the boiler this is where the ammonia water solution that is held in this little tank boils it boils off the ammonia which comes up condenses to liquid ammonia somewhere up here and does some magic with hydrogen and other things in there to make cold comes back down in here where it reabsorbs with the water and comes back down reaches back to the boiler to start the whole process over over here it's a closed loop system as well but you only have one gas instead of water ammonia and hydrogen it's a refrigerant uses the compressor to compress the gas rejects the heat through the coils comes on up condenses into a liquid through this little capillary tube here which Reva evaporates into the coils and gets cold up here and then comes back down and restarts the process all over again well the new unit looks considerably smaller and it is it's a fraction of the size of the old one it weighs probably about the same the compressor is a pretty heavy unit on the old one here we're not really going to reuse anything on here except these fans I'll probably take off this fan kit and remount it in the top somehow it's clearly not gonna mount on this the same way that it did over here but we'll figure out a way to use those fans to help get the hot air out from behind the fridge all right this is the back of our fridge without the cooling unit on it all this junk in here needs to get cleaned up this is the thermal mastic material that we're gonna have to be adding more of they gave us a tube of this it's kind of like a clay material that's the whole purpose of it is to help conduct the heat or cold but he's from the fridge into the coils so we're gonna clean up all this stuff and we'll put all-new on for the new unit that's gonna be going in here this is the fins from the fridge we'll probably actually remove this entire unit to get it all cleaned up those are the fins you can see them there and we'll put that on to the we'll put it on to the other unit before we install it in here just so that everything hopefully lines up really nicely [Music] we got the back of the fridge all cleaned up now we vacuumed out all the old thermal mastic and got it all the tape peeled off around it now I'm gonna go ahead and peel out the fins from the refrigerator section and we're gonna install these on with a new cooling unit the next thing we're going to do is take the thermal mastic that was provided with this unit and we're gonna apply it to the cooling plates this is the freezer plate and this is the refrigerator plate after that we're going to install the fins on the refrigerator section now I'm going to take the fin assembly from the fridge and mount it to the refrigeration point with the master [Music] [Applause] [Music] alright I'm gonna set this aside here that thermoelastic is okay again always leaning it forward and now we're gonna go inside and prep the fridge to install it now I'm gonna take the foam insulation that was included in the kit and I'm gonna lay a bead all the way around the edge of the box where the new cooling unit is going to go in to seal it up nicely lay the bead at the height of the step all the way around about a thumb-sized beam [Music] now I'm lying a second feed of about the same size on top of the first when working with this stuff be really careful not to let it drip on anything you don't want it to get on it is incredibly hard to get off not really anything cleans it up well and also wear gloves you don't want to get it on you because it'll take days to get it off next we're going to bring the unit in it's gonna be a two-person job we're gonna bring it in and set it down in here I'm really hoping the fins aren't gonna push a whole bunch of this foam into the fridge though because it's they definitely stick out a little wider there drain hose out of there okay this is a can here we go nice and slow all right the unit set in nicely now you can see there's a little bit of a gap around the edges here we're just gonna take a little bit more of that foam and make sure it's sealed all the way around okay now we are going to apply some foil tape that was provided in the kit all the way around the edges of the new cooling unit now we're just going to attach it to the back of the fridge with the screws I use the existing really short screws on the corners because this fridge has vacuum panels on the corners that you don't want to puncture but they have supplied some screws that and some holes in the inside of the panel just go maybe in the back of the fridge there's not much more than foam to hold it on so most of the the strength is here here and then all the screws that are gonna hold the freezer part in are gonna hold the whole top unit in as well I'm now gonna secure the control panel in a place that is easy to access for the new unit alright for the control panel I'm going to become connecting the compressor to the AC neutral on the negative and the AC heater coils for the positive and this relay is now going to be what's going to be controlling the compressor basically you have your AC positive and negative 2 power neutral and line and neutral the line goes through this fuse through this relay and then lights up this connection over here so now when the temperature sensor senses that the fridge is too warm it will turn on this relay to run the AC heater but it's now going to be running the compressor via this circuit right here we are also going to be upsizing the fuse that's on the board here the is right now it's an existing 5 amp fuse that was there for the AC heater with a 20 amp fuse for the new compressor the fuse was included with the kit I'm now going to reconnect the temperature sensor the thermistor in the fridge we're going to bring the control wire back down from the control panel and reconnect it from the display panel I guess on top of the fridge and the this is a heating element that I'm just going to reconnect to here and that's for the climate control of the fridge we're now going to tilt the fridge back upright we have to do this relatively quickly before all the foam is completely set so we can get those freezer screws in there and pull the freezer in tight before the foam is all really hard doesn't look like it drift of foam in here all right well everything's in there we're gonna now you put the freezer screws back in they don't appear to line up exactly so our holes are off by just a little bit on the plate in the back and I can't get these existing screws back in there as they currently are we talked to the manufacturer and they said that in this case that's why they provide the self-tapping screws is that we're gonna actually shift the holes over in the back of the freezer a little bit we don't want to put any new holes in the plate that came with it because we can accidentally strike one of the cooling hoses that's behind the plate so we're just gonna drill a new hole well see if the self tappers will work if that's not gonna work I'll just probably have to get a drill bit in there and drill a new hole in the back of the the freezer to line it up with the new cooling unit the holes aren't so far off that we won't have extra holes in the back the existing washers that are there we'll put them back on with the new screws and they'll cover up any extra hole that we've made [Music] [Music] okay there we go they're all in there I could feel it snug nice and tight against that back pleat so should be good well here it is we got the new unit on upright it's now time to wire everything up the compressor wires are going to connect to the basically the heater output wires where the AC heater output wires were so we connected the negative to the neutral and the positive to the AC line connection if you're using an AC compressor you could just connect it exactly as the previous unit was connect the line to the line and they're totally neutral the fan I just connected I was actually able to reuse one of the wires from the existing control circuit connect it to the therm the thermal switch here that will turn on this fan when it gets too hot and I just connected that to the same place on the board where the existing fan was connected for the negative of the fan I was just again used a piece with one of these little L connectors from the existing control panel and I used a little Spade connector for this project you're going to want to have some of these Spade connectors and also some of these female adapters so you can connect to these various parts the next thing I'm going to do is I'm actually gonna test this tune it out and make sure it's working before we put it in its slot so I made this test harness here we're going to run this on the 12 volt so what I did is I've got a positive and a negative lead and then I just jumpered them to two more female connectors to connect the Spade on here where we're going to connect the compressor so the negative side is going to make sure this is my negative I'm going to connect to the battery negative on the board and then I'm going to jumper it over to the negative position for where the compressor is negative so these two are actually connected together on the back of the board this is the wire that goes through the relay so for the positive we're going to connect it to the battery positive location on the board and also to the AC line input which is right here on the board so now what's gonna happen is that this positive is gonna jump out over here go through our new fuse this relay will click on to fire up the compressor let's plug it in now I've run these leads we're just gonna connect it up to the existing fridge power supply or it used to be make sure that I connect my positive to the positive line right where it was before and it's just temporary so I'm gonna throw a wire nut on there and the negative on to the negative here verifying triple-checking that I'm using this correct wires all right it's all hooked up here's a moment of truth we're gonna put that fuse back in that we pulled out originally and turn this sucker on here we go turning it on light came on it's an auto so that should be AC it just shows AC so it sees power it's not actually AC and I can hear that compressor running back there well there we go you can hear it's running it took a little while to start up the compressor started three or four times and then shut off I'm guessing it was testing the system or something there is a little box alongside the compressor that I think probably is a computer that is sensing current or pressures or something in there I'm not sure exactly what it does but it's monitoring the system and was probably just starting it a couple times there would've been a vapor lock or something but it's running now I can feel the coils are already getting hot and the return line is getting cold so I think it's working we're ready to put it back into its spot here we go start dipping go ahead all right hold it right there mister slide it in which way let's stop right there I'm gonna go look at the back and make sure okay I'm gonna have to go ahead and remove the little fan bracket here because the motor is clearly gonna hit it the motors gonna come another two-three inches it's gonna come out to about here it's also gonna gas lines in the way have to bend this whole thing hopefully that won't be a problem so I could use this setup that I set up earlier to test the unit out but we are actually not gonna be using 12 volts to power the unit 12 volts does still need to power the brain but we actually pulled 24 volts from our battery that we're gonna connect to the compressor side of the power so these jumpers basically are no longer needed and I'm just gonna trim them off wiring for the compressor retrofit is actually quite straightforward and if you choose to do this jaesi refrigeration can help you figure out your wiring while refrigerators have different power boards there are basically three compressor retrofit configurations that I've laid out in this schematic this is a simplified schematic leaving off control wires showing only the power connections in the upper right the 120 volt compressor version shows that basically nothing changes and the compressor just plugs in where the heating element used to the DC compressor option can be run on 12 volt or 24 volt configurations the 12 volt configuration in the schematic shows how I use the jumpers the 24 volt configuration which were actually utilizing replaces the 120 volt in with 24 volts DC both DC configurations require upsizing the fuse on the board and a 12-gauge 20 amp DC circuit lastly we need to cap off the propane line if you have the right sized cap you can put it in here and just screw it in so this project overall took us about a full day to do the conversion the fridge also once we got it fired up was able to cool down to food-safe temperatures in just a couple hours so we were able to get all our food moved back into our fridge in the same day it's been about two months since we installed the new cooling unit and we've been very happy with its performance so far previously our refrigerator was running at about 50 degrees and our freezer was running in the 20s now we are seeing temperatures in the refrigerator of the upper 30s to low 40s and the freezer is down in the teens all the way down to zero so much much improved there is one thing that we've noticed that now that it's working so well that our fridge fins are actually freezing over which hasn't ever really happened for us before so we will have to be defrosting those occasionally but much better problem to have then your food going bad we have operated this unit in temperatures ranging from below freezing all the way up to like 90 degrees and we have seen very consistent performance across the board in temperatures below freezing we have noticed that freezer temperatures start to rise which is a very common issue with RV refrigerators because the heat load in the refrigerator where the temperature sensor is actually is too low so the compressor is not running enough our fridge has the low ambient switch which a lot of RV refrigerator --zz have and that actually just turns the light on inside the fridge even when the door is closed and it adds heat load to the system causing it to run more and it was able to bring that freezer temperature back down by warming up freezer temperatures I mean that the freezer was back into the 20s instead of in those low teens so it was still actually working really well I have calculated how much power this refrigerator has been using and it swings wildly with those temperature differences as well in cooler temperatures we've noticed it run around 500 watt hours of power per day all the way up to about 1.5 kilowatt hours of power in those 90 degree temperatures when the compressor is running a lot more to keep itself cool this is an incredible improvement over the previous unit on Elektra only as overnight our unit would use four to six kilowatt hours just trying to run it on battery so in the course of a day our previous unit could be using eight to ten kilowatt hours so this is an enormous power saving and allows us to run it on our solar system easily so when we fired this thing up for the first time we did notice some noise differences and it does sound more like a residential style refrigerator versus the absorption unit that we had before just in the sense that we could hear the gurgling and the the compressor are kicking on and off nothing really that loud with just a new sound that we had to get used to we did have one issue with this unit and that is that we were running on 24 volts DC our 24 volt battery that we have in our coach it actually runs much lower than 24 volts and the DC compressor has a low voltage cutoff that low voltage cutoff is in there to protect your battery system but because ours runs at such a low voltage it was actually taking the refrigerator offline much earlier than it should have this voltage cutoff on the DC compressors is actually programmable and I was able to get a variable resistor and connected across pins in the back to change that low voltage setting and were able to get the fridge to continuously run even at the lower voltages of our system by changing that setting overall we're exceedingly happy with how this project turned out the unit is performing exactly as we had hoped it would and the installation went really well we followed the easy step-by-step instructions in the videos on their website and while it was very easy to follow we do recommend that you have a do-it-yourself mindset and you absolutely have at least one other helper to help you with everything for the whole project JC refrigeration manufactures these HVAC cooling units for almost all refrigerator retrofits they even make them for the large double door units the units also come with a three-year warranty and you can purchase an additional three-year warranty on their website if you're interested JC refrigeration was great to work with through this whole process as well they were easily reachable by phone or email with questions and customer service is definitely a high priority for them so if you're looking to improve your RV refrigeration efficiency on electric or you're wanting to step away from gas lately the JC refrigeration HVAC unit is definitely worth considering thanks for sticking with us through this extensive RV upgrade project we really appreciate you watching and we'll see you next time bye-bye stop recording now

Channel: Mortons on the Move

Views: 477,945

Keywords: RV fridge upgrade, DC compressor fridge, RV DC compressor fridge, RV residential Fridge, RV fridge cooling unit, RV fridge not cooling, propane absorbtion cooling unit, Dometic Fridge, Norcold Fridge, Dutchair, JC refregeration, Amish cooling unit, Best RV fridge, RV fridge Solar, Solar Fridge, Solar Refrigerator, refrigerator, upgrade, DIY, Refrigerator Efficency, Improge fridge efficency, off grid refrigerator, off grid fridge, solar powered fridge, DC compressor, DC fridge

Id: Yte1V3CkDrw

Length: 39min 24sec (2364 seconds)

Published: Fri Nov 30 2018