Converting a Terminator Chaplain

everyone Liam here welcome to this week's YouTube video this week we're going to be going over how I kit bash the Terminator chaplain that you can see on screen this video is going to be the first in the series based around how I'm building and painting my size to the emperor Army for 40K hopefully you find it useful potentially entertaining but regardless let me know what you think in the comments below I really appreciate the feedback and naturally I want to make these videos as good as possible if you do want to share your own work feel free to check out the Discord we've got an amazing community over there it's completely free and I'd love to see you work but enough of my ramble let's crack on with the video so this is the Games Workshop Terminator chaplain that's just come out I really like the new Space Marines and I'm a big fan of all of the new releases this one I do like it just missed the mark a little bit for me the issue that I have with it is twofold first of all the Torso is very lackluster in comparison to the rest of the model and the pose is a little bit dull for such a interesting character so considering this is going to be my effectively the leader of my cyes of the emperor Army that I'm doing it needs to be a little bit special or it needs to be at least more more special than the current model um and I'm really not trying to to bag on GW here like I Love Games Workshop models I'm not the sort of person who's going to make a YouTube video who just tries to bring them down for clicks um I really am a fan it's just this particular one wasn't as exciting as I wanted it to be so we're going to make it hopefully a little bit more interesting now I don't want to spend huge amounts of money on kit bashing a model so I grabbed one of my Leviathan captains I've got two or three of them laying around just cuz they a dime a dozen let's be honest the levia and Terminator captains and I'm going to use that as a donor model so what I've done is I've prepped all of the pieces for the Terminator captain that I'm going to be using and I've prepped all of the pieces for the chaplain that I'm going to be using so the main thing that I'm going to be using for the Terminator from the Terminator Captain is the arms and the Torso the chaplain itself I'm going to be using the legs The Shield and the head so the idea of this is we're just going to kind of try and kit bash these together and get something that really works the biggest piece of this is going to be trying to save that torso so it's going to be basically swapping the legs that's going to be the most awkward part because obviously these are two different models and it's got to make sense uh with the pose and the chaplain legs are a little bit bigger you won't notice it at the end especially with the cloak from the Terminator captain on the upside the chaplain head as you can just see just slides straight in so that's really simple it's just the case of removing the plug from the Terminator Captain the back of the head of the Terminator captain and then sliding the chaplain head in place that's simple the Terminator chaplain Shield arm goes on his right arm I want it on the left so we're going to have to have a little of a play around with the hands and then I've got this Scythe from the death guard kit now I do like this Scythe it's a little bit on the nose I know for scy of the emperor but it fits the chaplain and it fits the chapter my only problem with this is what I did find and and this is something I find quite a lot is actually the Forge World stuff can tend to be a bit plain in comparison to the GW stuff so I might have to come back to this in the future and do some green stuff work but I definitely don't want to do that at the moment so some of this is going to be quite simple some of it is going to be a little bit more more challenging first things first we need to slice off the legs now I'm just using some hobby clippers for this so this is obviously slicing the legs off the Terminator Captain it comes as one piece with the Torso the chaplain nice enough the legs come completely separate so you can see that I've just clipped off the two legs at the thighs and then what I'm going to do is I'm going to start being a little bit more careful start being a little bit more precise now I can on the upside this chaplain has thigh plates which is what I was just checking on the sprew the thigh plates on the chaplain are completely separate to the legs which means I don't have to try and save those thigh plates on the actual Captain I can just cut them off so all we're trying to do here is everything from his chest below so even the stomach is going to go because if you look at the legs on the chaplain the legs are the obviously all the legs the thighs and the stomach so we're going to slice off off all of the belt which is a bit of a shame cuz I like the belt on the captain and it would have fit for this but it is what it is so once we've got all the big chunks out way out of the way so you can see I'm still using clippers here cuz none of this needs to be particular careful I just have to be careful once I start getting towards that chest as soon as I start getting towards that Aquilla I have to be really really careful cuz I don't want to damage it and that's where the exacto blade comes in the knife now what I would say to you with this is be careful I'm notorious for being really quite careless uh and I'm always cutting myself so if you're going to do this my recommendation would be for a start you're going to use the xacto blade use new blades so they're really sharp now I know that might seem a bit crazy to some people but what you want to do is you want to remove very small pieces of plastic at once right don't remove massive chunks like I'm doing right here you want to do very very small pieces and if you do that with a new blade what happens is is you get very little resistance and there's a very little chance of you actually cutting yourself so be careful with this the other thing is on the inside of the Torso I'm removing all of the like the plug and everything from the inside of the Torso because potentially what's going to happen is the legs are going to have to be pushed up into the Torso so I'm trying to make some space you can see here I'm slicing away very carefully or carefully you you be more careful do as I do as I say not do as I do as I say I'm a know with this sort of stuff but gradually remove the excess plastic so you've just got the upper torso right so you've just got that chest plate so you can see I'm slicing it off and then I'm scraping the last little bits so it's nice and smooth this takes time right you really need to be patient with this don't rush it if you rush it you're going to hurt yourself and worse you're going to damage the model pick which one's worse for me it's worse to to damage the model so really really slow take your time decent blade do not use a blunt blade if you use a blunt blade you'll probably end up damaging the model as well while you try and force it so yeah as for the actual connection point I I had enough I had enough of a connection point between the Torso even though it's Hollow and the legs to just glue it which you'll see very soon if for whatever reason you've in your conversion or your kit bash whatever you want to call it if for whatever reason you get to a point where there's not a lot of contact point between the Torso and the legs or or anything else you're doing my recommendation would be is to get a big chunk of green stuff right green stuff is really really tacky so what you can do is you can fill the hole with green stuff and then press the legs in this case into the green stuff now that in itself won't stick but if you place superglue between the contact points of the plastic and the green green stuff it will stick now you're still going to be able to stretch that green stuff apart but once you leave it for 3 or 4 hours you're going to have a rock solid connection so that's how I do it normally just because what happens is is it gives you a lot of movement and flexibility as well because even if you glue the plastic to the green stuff you can still move that green stuff and reposition everything so I don't need to do that in this case but it's something to bear in mind just be very um be be very thoughtful about the fact that you're going to need to potentially move these legs quite a lot and what you're going to find with this SL at the moment I'm just slicing out big chunks of the center of the behind the behind the Torso just so I can fit those legs in so I can fit the the guy's core um in into the actual torso and have some movement to adjust it now I'm not although I'm doing this conversion now I'm not going to glue these legs on until the end because I want to know what it looks like once the arms go on because I don't want to I don't want to have to Repose the arms because that means I'm going to have to do some sculpting and I really don't want that for for this particular piece so normally I would be doing legs then arms then head in this case I'm going to do the arms first and I'm going to adjust the position of the legs for however the arms sit so I'm going to glue the Torso together now so the back piece of the Torso and the actual front piece of the Torso so that's all in one piece and then I'm going to leave the legs off so as I said normally I would I would have the Torso and the legs Glu together so I can get the body position in this case I'm not going to do that because I don't want to have to convert the arms and I don't have that many arms speaking of which the Forge World Scythe the first thing that I'm doing is just slicing out the hand now I really don't like resin I'm I'm going to be honest I'm not a big fan and this is nothing to do with for Forge World I'm just not a fan of resin in general Forge World is a lot better than it used to be but I'm just not a fan there is one big benefit of this so what one of the big benefits when it comes to conversions is the fact that you can just get a haird dryer and you can just warm it up and move it so that means if you've got anything where you need to put a like a pin through it you can very easily heat it up reposition them and then what will happen is is you can put your pin in place and I'll show you what I'm talking about in a second and then you can heat it up and move it back again so it gives you a huge amount of flexibility which you don't have with plastic so you can see right now I'm trying to basically drill into the shaft of this and it's bending that resin right what's probably going to happen is I'm going to snap it like this it's just really awkward to get to by the time I start drilling into that the pin Vie the pin is probably like the drill is probably going to snap that resin and this can be incredibly frustrating especially when you're using plastic models W plastic pieces but with resin there's a really easy way around it yes it's very flexible but we still don't want to take the risk especially as Forge World resin specifically is quite expensive so in this case what we're going to do is we're going to get a hair dryer which you're not going to see cuz it's going to be off camera but we're going to get a haird dryer and we're going to heat up the resin the resin piece and we're going to bend it into a different position so what this is going to do is hopefully it's going to save us a lot of stress because we're not going to have to worry about snapping the model snap in the piece and it gives us a very easy way to drill and work with this so once we start drilling you want to try and get this you need to get this hole as Central as possible my drill bits a little bit too big actually as well make sure you got the right size drill bit but couldn't find my smaller one so what I would say to you is when you're drilling these holes make sure sure you score a mark first so you haven't seen me do it on this one I've just started drilling but when we get on to the next bit I'll show you but basically what I'll do is I'll get the tip of the exacto blade and which is what I'm doing here so I'll get the tip of the exacto blade and I'll score just a shallow Mark right so the idea with this is is when you put the drill bit in place it stops it from slipping and stops it from going into your finger or at least hopefully stops it from going into your finger the other thing is is while you're drill in as well if you can brace the model against the desk so if the drill bit slips like it slipping here it slips into the desk and not your finger and if your if the drill bit is slip in the way it is on that video then I would say you need to score a deeper Mark right it shouldn't be doing that so again you can see me going back with that exacto blade and I'm making that Mark even deeper so when I go back in with this drill it should hold its position and then I'm hopefully not going to stab myself so just be careful I know I I always say that I'm not and I'm not cuz I'm just irresponsible as a general rule so just be careful with it you see that I'm now heating up the Scythe again bending it back into position so I haven't damaged it so I'm trying to be responsible with this I'm just honestly like if if these were really cheap I probably wouldn't care so much but five weapons from Forge World are not are not cheap and even if you buy them from bit sites they're like two or three quid so anyway you can see the scyth is now back into its correct position so what we've got to do is we've got to put a pin through it but before we do that we need to make sure that hand fits so dry fit everything this is really really important so we dry fit the hand are we happy with it yes or no if we're not we need to change the position of the cuts this one was absolutely fine it needed a few small adjustments like just a little bit clean up but that was it as for um as for the pin what I did do is I drilled all the way through the hand so I can put the pin all the way through with this as well you don't need to do this I prefer when I'm doing something like this to drill the hole in the hand a little bit bigger than the pin same as in the weapon the reason why I do this is because it lets me it gives me some flexibility so it lets me move the position of the hand rather than it just being stuck exactly where I've drilled those hole you don't need to do that not everyone not Everyone likes to do it it's just what I like to do so you'll see it here I dro the glue into the hole in the hand and then when I push the pin through the pin will not sit straight there's a big gap on either side of the pin the end of the day the super glue as I work that pin in and out the super glue fills and it will glue it Rock Solid but for me I want that PIN to be able to move so it gives me some flexibility in the position of the hand on or with the Scythe so I make sure that I can actually line it up obviously the pin that I've used is massive so once that's dry I'm just going to snip off half of it so it's the right size but again like for me because I'm not a particularly careful person as a general rule I do it in a way where I can make up for those potential issues now you don't need to do that if you're quite prec prise um and very careful you'll probably be a lot better than than me at this sort of stuff at kit bashing conversions and all sorts of stuff this is just how I make up for it so you can see me inserting the pin in making sure it fits okay next thing is obviously glue now even with super glue you should have a few seconds to work with the position of this hand so you should be able to get the pins in place and then twist the weapon so you get it at the right angle and what I would say is you can see me like working it in and out a few times that's because the superg glue kind of sits on as a like a little bit of a bubble on the inside uh on the outside of the the actual hole isas if you work the pin in and out it pops the bubble and it makes the super glue go into the actual hole that you've drilled which works for me so you can see me playing with this now I keep moving the I keep moving the weapon around the hand you can see there's a little bit of a gap and it's too far over because the pin is loose in that hole it gives me lots of M movement to make sure that that weapon isn't going to be sitting like too close to the Palm or too close to the back of the hand or too close to the knuckles or anything like that so again like gives me loads of flexibility that's something that's really important we're going to move on to the storm Boler next or rather the storm short so the first thing that we need to do is slice the storm Boler off of the arm apparently an extra wound From The Storm Shield is a really big deal I don't know I haven't played 40K in years and I'm frankly learning it all a new anyway this is probably a good time for a plug for any of you guys who are here watching this video still if you are looking to improve your painting and improve your miniature work feel free to check out the members area you can just sign up through YouTube memberships you'll get additional video content and much more indepth video content including a in-depth fundamental series on how to improve your painting as well as all the project logs that I've got going on or have been doing means a huge amount and it keeps the channel going thank you very much and I really appreciate everyone who does support me through the membership program through patreon and YouTube but as always not everyone can support with money and I appreciate that so if you hit the like button please subscribe if you're enjoying the content and you know what if you want to be part of the community as I said at the beginning of this video join in the Discord and share some work we'd absolutely love to see you there but without further Ado you can still me still you can still see me scraping off this stormbow the the handle of the actual storm Bol itself I'm going to keep because that fits really well with just Him holding on to the handle of The Shield I'm just going to slice off the bottom of the hilt Asel be very careful with this you can see that I'm slicing off quite large chunks once again do smaller chunks right nice sharp blade smaller chunks very very slowly so you don't put a huge amount of pressure on yourself so you're not or the model so you're not going to slice into you for anyone who's even mildly experienced in this hob hobby nose these blades hurt like a lot and there can be quite a lot of blood so be careful and honestly it's really quite funny one of the one of the things that you know from an experienced hobbyist is the amount of scars that they have on their thumb but anyway digress so you can see me slicing the the stormbolt was now gone as long as we get this relatively flat that's all that matters and then what you want to do is just sand it smooth cuz some of that that hand is still going to be shown so you can see me scraping it nice and smooth then what I would suggest you do is get a bit of sandpaper as well and just sand it so it's all nice and smooth so it looks nice but that works the next thing that you're also going to have to do you've got to think about how the Storm Shield is going to connect to that hand so you're probably going to have to slice down a little bit of the flat of the hand the outside of the hand and start playing with dry fitting the fit for the Storm Shield because you do need it relatively flat and this is what I'm going to start doing now the other thing the the way that I'm doing this I didn't want to have to slice the hand off well I couldn't slice the hand off cuz the hand that connects to the storm shield on the chaplain is the wrong side so in this case I kept the storm Bol a hand and what I ended up doing is as you can see slightly slicing off the bottom and then gluing the actual hand to the shield now it kind of just looks like it's floating so the hand from the original chaplain hand I sliced the hand off and then basically I glued these two bits of plastic to the top and bottom of the hand now this isn't the cleanest work here but what you need to remember is you do not see the storm shield from the inside the model is black and if someone's looking at your model from the underneath then you probably want to tell them to get your hands get their hands off your bloody models anyway so it's really not a big deal if you were doing this for a competition then I'd be talking to you about resculpting this completely to make sure that it's right but this is a tabletop piece and it's part of a piece that is never going to be seen right you're just not going to see it especially when the whole thing is black because he's a chaplain so kept it really simple glue the hand onto the shield and then trying to keep this in Focus it's proper small and then what I'm doing if iuck can grab them there we go is I'm placing on the the top of the the top and bottom of the handle from the original chaplain hand that held on the Storm Shield now I've got fat fingers and I'm incredibly clumsy so you can see that I've stabbed this part of the model with an exacto blade you will not see that tiny little stab mark because I haven't pressed incredibly hard and I'm just sliding it into place and I've got no issues like showing off like this is not a perfect conversion because people are always talking about how like they have to have everything that's this amazing Masterpiece and it's frankly not true especially when you're doing tabletop stuff right if I if if I spend the amount of time painting on every Army model that I was doing as I could I would finish in about 40 years right it it's just ridiculous so what you need to remember is you need to pick the standard that you are happy with with this Army now this looks fine you're only going to notice any issues here is if you look really up close and as I said you're not going to going to see it because it's facing downwards and it's facing towards the model and it's black so that's good enough it's good enough for me if you wanted to improve on it the fact is is you'd probably have to scrape down the inside of that Shield to make sure it was all flat and then you'd probably have to clean it up with some green stuff if you want to do that that's great that's your choice but you don't need to panic about it it's not that important it's never going to be seen now I'm gluing the arms on again this is a weird thing to do normally because we would want to glue the legs on first but I'm happy with the arms I'm happy with the shield kind of slightly to the like out to the left and then the scyth kind of like held alongside him going backwards now I've played with the legs so I know what position they're going to be in and I know I'm going to want the head looking towards the shield Direction so nice and simple I'm now going to place the head in so the head and the arms are now going to dictate the position that I want the legs in but bear in mind I have already dry fitted those legs right so it's not like I don't know where they're going to go so the head is turning a little bit I'm not a big fan of heads facing directly forwards generally looks very boring very unnatural um I know that seems ridiculous but it does to me anyway but it's definitely boring so you can already see we have some imposing like he looks quite imposing now I've got a choice to make here those legs this is the position that I want the legs I really like them I can either have him leaning forward slightly which makes him quite hunched and intimidating or I can have him kind of like walking like standing almost upright which makes him a little bit taller um and a bit easier to to see from above if that makes sense um but I decided that do you know what most people are going to be looking at it from across the tabletop and when it comes to photos I can take the photo from whatever angle I wanted so I decided to go with something a little bit more intimidating so what I've actually got is when I glue these legs on I'm going to do him leaning forward a little bit so he's a little bit more hunched the Gap in that torso the big hole in the Torso before I glue this this that would that Gap that you see right now on the left that big hole that's the hole that I would probably fill with a little bit of green stuff if you don't have enough contact points for this to dry properly I didn't have that issue but it's a really handy little tip glue the green stuff in glue the legs to the green stuff that will hold as long as you don't rip it out and then you can just basically twist and move those legs around because the green stuff is flexible and then when you leave it it's going to dry perfectly it's going to about to dry perfectly solid sorry and that's basically it for the conversion so really really straightforward well relatively straightforward I think for a nice kit bash um and I'm really happy with the result you can see me slicing the back of this um his bum basically just because the it keeps hitting against the cape so I'm just slicing it a little bit so it sits flush with the cape that's all that is but again I'm really happy with this the next step after this is just basically add the details that come with the model so whatever the I don't know the tassle things are that go onto his groin uh that comes with the chaplain and little details like that that just come part of the clip part of the clip and that's it for this week thank you very much for watching means a huge amount to me as I said previously if you did like the video hit the like button and if you want to see more make sure you hit the Subscribe button makes a massive massive difference to the growth of the channel cheers

Channel: Phoenix Miniature Art

Views: 56,500

Keywords: Kitbash, SpaceMarine, SpacemarineCaptain, Leviathan, TerminatorCaptain, LeviathanTerminators, GamesWorkshop, Warhammer40k, Warhammer40000, PrimarisSpaceMarines, MiniaturePainting, MiniatureConverting, WarhammerHobby, Spacemarinechaplain, Warhammer

Id: PvRkePt0NDo

Length: 25min 56sec (1556 seconds)

Published: Sat Nov 04 2023