Contrast Paint Sons of Horus Leviathan Dreadnought!

hey guys it's andy from mediocre hobbies here bringing you a kind of requested video um so i showed you guys how to paint up some of the new horse heresy tanks over the last couple of weeks using the artist opus dry brush style a lot of stippling some dry brushing some weathering and i really like the result and some people did have some questions as to whether or not you could transfer my infantry videos over to painting larger miniatures so for anyone that's unaware i have done 18 legion videos so video on how to paint each and every one of the legions from the horus heresy um and now people are wondering whether these are transferable up to larger miniatures so today i'm going to test that theory and i'm going to paint a leviathan dreadnought and i'm going to use the exact same method i use for painting my sons of horus um infantry and character so they will match him perfectly i think the rhino i did fit in quite well but this should alleviate any fears that any other people have um just before we get into the video i just want to say that it means a lot to me you guys here here watching my video if you are enjoying them make sure you drop a like and if you haven't already subscribed to the channel is very important to me and the success of this whole project so if you take two seconds out of your day and hit that subscribe button it would mean a lot to me okay guys let's get into painting okay so unfortunately i was not one of the lucky few who were sent a plastic leviathan dreadnought so we're gonna have to suffer through this with the forge world resin one um there was a little few complications because it was the resin one the surface was a little bit more porous which means it grabbed the shade a little bit more which led to a tiny bit of splodging but we'll just ignore that for now so as per the normal uh sons of horus scheme that i do we started with a tear down turquoise all over the armor panels because of the porous surface that the resin was giving me it was trying to grip the shade a lot more so more time was required kind of pulling away um like drips and drops to make sure that they weren't going to pull and give you kind of a nasty surface now in a scheme like this it doesn't matter too much because we're going to be layering over the top of it for any of these um heresy schemes where you're leaving at a contrast stage you want to be a little more careful making sure that there is no pooling if you're working on the new plastic one you won't have this issue if you've seen my imperial fist one you'll see how quick and easy and smooth contrast does apply to tanks if you're working on any of the old forged world resin ones just be aware of this fact it will take a little bit more time to make sure that you're going to control the shade and not have it pool in places that you don't want to so for instance when i layered this like this huge blob of teardown turquoise onto this miniature here it just sat in that one spot and then i had to work it through and keep pulling it around i was using the tank or the dreadnought as like a palette for the shade just kept going back to that pool pulling a bit more applying it back and forth and just making sure that it wasn't going to stay that super dark color that was there a bit of a pain in the backside but we worked our way through it you see me here going back to the large amount that i left at the start until the actual blue starts to show through you can see the rough texture of the resin right there absolutely bizarre but i do love leviathan dreadnoughts and i did get my hands on or have ordered the plastic one so i'll be doing that up as an imperial fist one whenever it decides to arrive and i'm very much looking forward to that process more than the resin one here i also built this resume when the rest one first came out so i've had this for quite a number of years but that's enough complaining about the model we'll we'll solder on through the rest of this video so here it is with all the teardown turquoise applied to all the armor panels now it's time to um black out all the other parts so for this we're gonna go to black templar and this is like uh for the exoskeleton of the entire dreadnought i like to put this down as kind of a first coat to doing metallic silvers and stuff and if you have watched my imperial fist a video that came out last week saturday sorry you will see how i do this process but i will show you again in this video if you haven't caught that video um two videos in a row being dreadnoughts but no complaints for me i tried not just one of my favorite things in the uh 40k universe so just carefully go through the uh black templar across all of the other parts of the miniature that aren't the tear on turquoise armor panels like i said this is more important on some of the schemes where you leave it as just the contrast layer on one that's like this it's not too bad if you accidentally hit another piece because it will be layering up afterwards but the less you hit the more work we have later on uh we're going to give all of those black parts now a light dry brush of silver just to catch the edges and start the the kind of silver processing once again this is another stage that if you're leaving at the contrast stage you might not want to do this bit as you will hit the armor panels a little bit and because you're not layering back up again it will uh kind of shine through as mistakes unless you're going super light then you can just kind of pay it off as chipping or whatever as you can see i didn't hit the armor um a lot while i was doing the tri-brushing stage but i have a lot of experience with dry brushing but it's up to you what you want to do next i went down to nolan oiling the entire miniature i just want to darken it all down and make sure that the recesses are really nice and deep and for the layering stage this is what i do on my sons of course infantry videos um and the one i did for my prey tours horse prey tour all exactly the same steps next time to move on to the of horse layer paint and this is where we are going to start um being super neat and tidy and we're going to layer up all of the armor panels on this sons of horus leviathan on power armored pieces you can get away with one coat most of the time certain parts of infantry like shoulder pads or maybe the helmet or the backpack bits that are going to be standing out on the battlefield you may want to give a second coat to on the leviathan dreadnought all of those panels are big and flat and some of the other color will shine through so if you want a solid coat make sure you're giving it two thin coats because we have built up the color using the teardown turquoise it's going on super effectively nice and smooth here's the legs done well first coat anyway come back and do the second coat in a moment now it's time to work up those big flat armored panels as you can see i'm taking my time i'm leaving all of the little nooks and crannies all those little square parts or bits that acts like like uh separate panels and i'm gonna make sure the lines all around them stay nice and dark and that will really accentuate that nice shade stage that we did these are the panels that will of course stand out the most on this piece so you're going to want to take your time up so there they are with one coat here's me going in with the second coat and you can see the impact the second coat has on the paint job it immediately gives you this nice smooth layer with great coverage and all we're going to do is repeat this process across the entire dreadnought until we have something that looks like this nice neat tidy armor panels we're gonna go over to corvus black now we're just going to use this to layer up um uh some of the armor panels on like the weapons we're going to do the helmet as well and the bit that runs around the top of the missile launcher havoc launcher whatever it's called i'm not 100 sure the heresy name for the shoulder mounted rockets on the contemporary dreadnought maybe it's a typhoon launcher i don't know uh so i'm gonna do the helmet and then of course there's like casings on both of the guns and the tips of the quad auto cannons then we're gonna do those in the black as well i took this opportunity now to uh throw on all the different transfers that i wanted and it was a hard decision deciding where they were going to go which ones they were going to be but in the end i think i went for the right amount in the right places and i think it really stood out iron breaker is then used to layer up all of those metallic bits all those bits that i gave a light dry brush too it's time to hit all of a higher point of those with the iron breaker as a highlight so friends on the barrels of the quad cannon we're just going to do the tops and the sides of the barrels places that light is going to hit if the light is coming straight down on top of it i'm going to leave all the undersides that nice dark shaded metallic this will give a really nice effect and it's it's super quick and easy to do if you want to panic too much about the uh getting every nook and cranny we just want to give the illusion of a nice paint job now jump to the sides see we're going to see the side of the barrel below it i wasn't really sure what i was going to do with this kind of chest grille part and so i decided quite later to the paint job to do it in gold and you probably could have done this before the uh black wash stage and then use the black wash to shade it down that's probably what i would have done if i could go back and but as it stands i didn't think about it so i did this and those kind of six bolts that run around the side of it i did those in gold as well and just add a little bit of extra color right now i thought that the the scheme looked a little bit bland i thought it needed just a little pop of color and so i went for gold and red for the rockets this was another really quick simple step but i think it added to the kind of paint scheme quite well so the camera decides to focus that is this is another stage where you want to take your time the kind of the black is finished the green is finished you don't want to be hitting any of those parts because then you have to go back and try and fix the mistakes and covering over red is quite difficult we're going to go back to our iron breaker and we're going to touch up all the gold as a as like a highlight stage so like i said if we added on the gold to start before the normal oil when we were going in with iron breaker before this to kind of layer up all of the gun and all the other metallic parts we would have done the gold at the same time i was really pleased with the result of the gold parts like i said i thought it really acted like that cherry on top and for color it really broke up the amount of blue on those big flat panels unlike other legions the transfers on these guys aren't extremely interesting either so they really give you a lot of color a lot of pop from the flat panels and but yeah next uh we are going to use um abaddon black and it's time to add a little bit of weathering and damage to this like i've said in multiple videos before my legion armies are going to be based around the siege and late harris ears everything is going to be chipped and worn and bottle damaged and weathered it's the way i like it so i'm using the sponge technique with a little bit of abaddon black and i'm just adding uh scratches to the surface of this remember this thing is known as a siege dreadnought it's it's job to walk up in in front of a hail of fire and puncture through fortresses and provide support and overwatch fire so it is going to have a lot of little chips and damage on it as everything under the sun takes pot shots at it as it crosses the battlefield i showed a lot more of the stippling the sponge as you can see i'm not particularly careful when i'm doing it once i have the right amount of paint on my sponge you can kind of just go ham and all it will do is add little dots of black to the miniature last but by no means least i'm going to add some of my favorite weathering powder this is what i use for anything that's based on that martian scheme base so a lot of my sons of horse tanks and all my infants travel around their feet and stuff that's exactly what i'm going to do here i'm going to feed it around the feet and then any other parts of the miniature where it would sell so i'm actually going to go for the creases between the head and those big shoulder panels those big crevices i'm going to feed some of it into there a lot of the back pieces um there's like vents and that kind of feed oxygen to the the engine the power pack i'm going to feed it in there i'll see if that's sucking in air it's going to be capturing a lot of dust and dirt and all the little cracks and crevices and stuff will also catch a little bit so use it as much or as little as you like or not at all if you like your tanks to be a little bit more pristine than this then skip this stage on the sponging stage and it will be a kind of pristine dreadnought at the start of the heresy or something that's looked after a little bit more than my war machines and but this is a quick and simple um step it adds a lot of detail makes it look like you put a lot more effort in than you have and this is my finished sons of horus leviathan dreadnought using my contrast and layering techniques that i use for all my infantry this guy will of course blend seamlessly with my infantry and you can use this technique on this or anything bigger or vinyl spartan kratos anything that you want to do this technique will work for all in all i'd say there's about two hours of painting in this guy so two hours of painting have a war machine like this on the table i think is pretty damn good okay guys and there we have it a leviathan dreadnought painted up using the same style as i did for my infantry some people will ask in the comments is there any point in contrasting up if you're just going to layer back up all the armor afterwards i've had that question quite a few times and what i will say to that is absolutely you need to build up colors to make sure you get the a nice strong coat you can do with tons of horror screen but you will be doing layer after layer after layer the teardown turquoise actually fantastic base coat for the next layer of paints and by leaving that in the recess is all shaded it makes the uh the miniature look like it has a lot more depth so thank you guys so much for sticking with me till the end of this video if you have any questions about anything that i did drop it in the comments below and i'll get back to each and every one of you guys if you see real value in what i do i want to support me and the channel even further there's links to things like my patreon below thank you guys so much for watching and i'll see you in the next one

Channel: Mediocre Hobbies

Views: 11,670

Keywords: warhammer, how to paint warhammer, painting tutorial, how to use contrast paints, mediocre hobbies, games workshop

Id: xU_PyqcVV9Q

Length: 15min 5sec (905 seconds)

Published: Tue Jul 26 2022