Congo is a multifaceted country in Central Africa. Crossed by a powerful river whose banks are covered with an incredible abundance of flora, it is a nourishing land with striking landscapes. Deserted beaches of fine sand lined with mangroves, primary forests sheltering the last large gorillas, or even ethnic groups with ancestral traditions: this complex country is full of secrets. It is its inhabitants who will reveal them to us, a people with phenomenal laughing vitality, greedy for the things that make everyday life vibrant. The journey that awaits us may surprise us. Located on the west coast of central Africa, the Republic of Congo is separated by a river from the former Belgian Congo, which became Zaire and then the Democratic Republic of Congo. The Lesio, Louna and Léfini rivers gave their name to one of the last Gorilla sanctuaries in Central Africa. Located in the north of the Pool department, about two hours by car from Brazzaville, the capital, the Lésio-Louna-Léfini Nature Reserve is also one of the largest in the country. This vast park was created in the 1950s, although with few dedicated resources. The proximity of Brazzaville, the conflicts bleeding the region, but also the increased demand for meat and poaching have caused its population to fall. It was only in 1990 that the Englishman John Aspinall, in partnership with the Ministry of Forestry, began experiments on the re-introduction of Gorillas. Beyond the blue lake, the primary forest reasserts itself and reveals an incredible bustle of activities. The Lésio-Louna reserve is only accessible by canoe. This site welcomes the gorillas during the period preceding their “release” into the wild. A 25-hectare island created on the Louna River allows primates to roam freely and in complete safety. Auguste Ngollo, the park's eco-guard regularly comes to feed them Here, he calls Kebou, who arrived from London Zoo in 2017. We had to leave him here first on this island so that he gets used to the African forest, especially since we have a forest with lianas, so they have difficulties, that's why we preferred to put them on an island. We feed them twice a day at 8 a.m. and 3:30 p.m., they each have at least 10 kilos in the morning and 10 kilos in the evening. 4 gorillas live in this area. Since 1987, the project has collected 89, all victims of trafficking or poaching, but also 22 Bonobo chimpanzees, which were transferred to specific sanctuaries. This gorilla there, his name is Kango, he comes from London, there were 4 of them, and he is the oldest of the Gorillas from London, he is the one who bears the name of the couple, of the Kango couple, he is 18 years. It is difficult to say when this group will be transferred to the southwest of Léfini, where the gorillas are released after their adaptation period. The greatest predator of primates today is still man: poachers make every effort to enter reserves and capture newborns , despite increasingly effective security measures. Away from the park, the Ipopi cliffs overlook the Léfini river. Taking the northern route, we cross the equator line at Makoua, indicated by a decrepit monument. Twenty years ago, this large town with sand and red earth roads was famous for growing cocoa and coffee. With the war, crops have now been abandoned. However, Makoua is still an essential stopover for travelers taking the long road from Brazzaville to the north of the country. The “Likouana aux Herbes” river is a very particular tributary of the Congo River. During the high water period, its watershed is almost completely flooded. In Epéna, where it reaches 11,300 km², the basin is covered with dense forest, submerged six months out of twelve. Rivers are devoid of infrastructure, forcing the population to organize themselves to move around. Canoes are therefore essential, for transport as well as for fishing. In Etoumbi, the ferry runs on elbow grease. This is an important axis which allows you to reach Mbomo, located at the entrance to the Odzala-Kokoua National Park. A laterite track crosses this 13,000 km2 primary tropical forest, declared a UNESCO biosphere reserve since 1977. 25% of Congo's plant species are concentrated around Mbomo. At the entrance to the village, we meet in the backwater on laundry days. The inhabitants live from agriculture, in particular from Cassava. Safous, wild plums, improve cassava-based menus. Sheltered from the sun, a family prepares one of the traditional dishes of Congo: Maboké. In the pot, the sheep tripe stew finishes cooking. It will then be poured into banana leaves garnished with spices and condiments. Maboké refers to the stewed cooking method, it is also available with fish. Often served spicy, this dish is not made for delicate palates... The village is also home to tribes of Baka pygmies. At the end of the harvest, this large family shares a dance of celebration. The Baka territory has shrunk over the years, squeezed by the forestry industry. Little by little, its people became more settled, making it easier for children to go to school. However, near the border with the Central African Republic, certain tribes still live in the middle of the forest. We leave Mbomo to reach Ouésso, in the Sangha region. Bordered by Cameroon to the north, and by Gabon to the west, the Sangha is the second region of the country in terms of surface area, and yet one of the least populated. Ouesso is the hub. An agro-forestry capital with an equatorial climate, it is also a port city and a dynamic welcoming city. On the outskirts of the city, Guy Mikam and Béatrice Mebit run a dance school whose teaching is inspired by neighboring Cameroon. The sound of percussion resonates from Balafon's music stands playing Mendjang. The Mendjang dance has existed for decades, it is our ancestors who taught it to us, it is the grandfather, Curata, who is the creator of this dance, in 1959, it is a dance that we practice at the occasion of marriage, death or public events. The equatorial forest is home to the Sangha River which comes alive well before sunrise. In Mbirou, a memorial hidden by vegetation commemorates an episode of the First World War, just as deadly in an Africa then colonized by many European countries. In the heart of the forest, in August 1914, a group of French soldiers were surprised by a German commando. Cassava is grown in the forest. This tuber is part of the staple diet of much of central and west Africa. Channel and her friends are going to harvest a few plants to sell on the market. To make your way through such dense vegetation, the machete is an essential tool. After having roughly pruned the perimeter, we dig up the roots. Here, we specialize in the cultivation of Cassava and bananas. To plant cassava, you must first clear the forest, after felling the trees, you carry out a burning process which is left to rest for 2 to 3 weeks before planting the seeds. A long walk still awaits him to reach the village. The Ouesso market on the banks of the Sangha opens at first light. Fish and meat must sell as quickly as possible, before the hot weather. The chestnut leaves coat the cassava and its condiments. The plant has just been cleaned, and will be sold as is. These are the leaves of the forest, the packed chestnut leaves, they are used to tie and wrap the cassava, we have already soaked it in water and prepared, here it is the staple food with the banana, it takes a lot of leaves to package all the cassava, it comes from far away, we bring it by canoe. The cassava is first soaked for 3 days. Retting releases the fibers. Then, the tuber is dried in the sun, then cut into pieces. Part of the production will be sold on site, the other sent to the mills. In these markets, women control operations. Between merchants, we call out loudly to each other, and deals are concluded quickly. In town, the shops are barely more structured. Unique shops offer both meat and fish. We also find workshops where cassava is transformed into flour, essential in the region's daily diet. In the suburbs of Ouesso, the Jitarine group is in full swing. We recognize the traditional dance steps, but also the gris-gris decorating the dancer's waist, signs of practicing fetishism. I started very young, at the age of 7, it was my ancestors who initiated me, I am now 37 years old. There are 2 types of dance, one public and another for a fetish sequence, during a death for example. At the exit of the town, logging trucks loaded with huge trunks are waiting for the ferry to cross. We take the southern road which leads to Brazzaville, stopping at Oyo, in the Cuvette province. The region sees all the rivers coming down from the north converge to flow into the Congo River, forming a series of deltas. Oyo extends on the banks of Alima, one of these tributaries. From May onwards, the banks of the river are dotted with fishing camps. After being smoked on site, the fish will be sold in the city's markets. Barrels can weigh up to 40 kilos. The fish come from the river area of Mousaka, from Loukoulela sometimes from Liana. The porters rush despite the overwhelming load of the barrels: they are paid per unit transported. It's for the speed of the tours, for the work, the barrels are pointed in relation to the transport, the number that I transport, the number that we will pay you. Oyo is located very close to Edou, the hometown of President Sassou Nguesso, who has held Congo with an iron fist since 1997. Today it is experiencing the most significant economic development in the country, as evidenced by its infrastructure and roads in very good condition. On the outskirts of Brazzaville, the Congo River majestically regulates life in the region. Stretching over 4,700 km, it is the eighth largest river in the world in length, and second only to the Amazon in flow. The islands that dot the river host ephemeral fishing camps , where people come for campaigns lasting a few weeks. The island of M'Bamou faces the cliffs of Dover, so similar to the English coasts that a British explorer named them that way. 270m high, they are surrounded by sandbanks. Very close to the capital, the town of Kintele has experienced rapid expansion. It is in fact the favorite destination of Brazzaville residents, who come to spend the weekend there. Luxury villas abound along the river. In calm weather, these extendable boats are unbeatable for transporting passengers and goods to the capital. Brazzaville is a recent city, the result of the meeting in 1880 of several colonial towns. For several years, it has been undergoing permanent modernization work. Thanks to the revenues from the oil it exploits in Pointe Noire, the metropolis is trying to develop to catch up with other cities in the country. With a population of one million eight hundred thousand inhabitants, the capital is divided into districts, the oldest of which have a close link with French colonial history. Bacongo and Poto-Poto are the first two to have seen the light of day. The Plaine district is home to “La Fresque de l’Afrique”, a masterpiece of Congolese pictorial art, erected on the pediment of a former covered market. Created in 1970 by a collective of local artists, it traces the history of the country from its origins to the 1960s. Nearby, a memorial is erected in memory of Pierre Savorgnan de Brazza, an Italian-French explorer at the origin of the creation of the city in 1880. Built in 1892 in the center of Brazzaville, the Sacré-Coeur Cathedral dominates the summit of the Butte de l'Aiglon. It is the oldest in Central Africa preserved through time and conflicts. Nearby, the Total market is, like many others in the region, a lively place full of fruits and vegetables. All the traditional products grown in the north arrived by river: cassava, banana leaves and other sweet foods abound on the stalls. Here, we chop Koko which will be served with cassava or plantains. Tshombé caterpillars are full of protein and very popular on the market. However, you have to get used to it to fully savor them. In the heart of Makelele, the first district, the Bifouiti district enjoys a fine reputation. Temple of basketry, you can buy simple products like baskets or baskets, but also sophisticated furniture. In recent years, however, this craft has suffered from the rise of plastic fibers. Justin is working on an imposing armchair. Currently I'm making a chair, it's a lot of work, I need a day to make this chair, I started this morning, I should be able to finish today. General de Gaulle is an important character in Congolese history. After the installation of the capital of Free France in Brazzaville from 1940 to 1942, he reflected on the question of the emancipation of this former colony, which gained independence in 1960. The basilica of Ste Anne erected in the Poto-Poto district in 1943 is also a strong symbol of the French period. At the time, its daring architecture caused a lot of ink to flow. Not far from there, the school of painters is a real local institution, founded in 1951 by Pierre Lods. No artistic rules are imposed on students: the key word is spontaneity. The Miké style, which means “small” in Lingala, developed in this school. Characterized by the representation of small characters. It's not like an academy, it's a school, a bit like a workshop, a painting school, each of us is free, each student is free to do what he wants, we are just there to see what they are doing, guide them in their work, each student is free to inspire themselves. The inspiration comes from the elders, the first students, they drew little characters, as they saw them at the time when they were in their village, they painted little characters on the walls, when they were came here they continued, we called it Banas Miké, which means small, they said at the time that they were drawing children, Bana Miké, that's how this style started. Just a stone's throw away, the sculptor Serge Louis Diabangouaya works on different media. In our countries, particularly in our Congo, there is a lot of wood and we often don't know what to do with it, a large part of the wood goes into the fire, I recover it. There are also old barrels that I also collect and which I try to promote by making lamps. Nature inspires me a lot and I even compose with nature, my sculptures are partly made of wood which I keep in its natural state, it is very rare apart from lampshades that I modify the trees, I prefer leave as is. Brazzaville faces Kinshasa, capital of the former Belgian colony which became the Democratic Republic of Congo. The river represents a natural border between these neighboring countries. Turbulent, it is formidable during the rainy season, during which its flow can become dangerous. Local residents, who know the pitfalls and dangers, do not hesitate to play there, swim, bathe or do laundry there. Tsui Teke is a coveted fruit and very appreciated by the Congolese. It grows on a fragile tree with thin leaves. Christine Makany has developed a technique to make a sorbet. Tsui Teke is very rich in antioxidants. It grows mainly in the Téké plateaus, that's why it is called Tsui Téké and it is harvested during the dry season, it has been domesticated by scientific research . We have fruits that only grow in the tropical Congo forest, it would have been a shame to only consume them in the traditional way, we decided to enhance them with sorbets and ice creams. There is Malombo, Minguégué, Tondoro, there are yellow Malonbo and red Malonbo, there is ginger which is found almost everywhere but you know that the quality of the fruit depends on the quality of the land so ginger in Congo has a very particular flavor. The work with the fruits is precise and requires a lot of time to obtain optimal development of the aromas. At sunset, we go to discover a timeless place, where the Bantus of the Capital perform. Created in the summer of 1959 by former jazz musicians, this group is one of the precursors of rumba and Congolese soukouss. The concert attracts many Sapeurs, these neo-dandies who display beautiful costumes. For Wielfried, Sape is an art of living. Like his friends Michel, Franck, and Ley, Wielfried claims to be part of “the Society of Ambianceurs and Elegant People”. This play on words promotes a certain idea of Congolese chic, far from the style of the nice neighborhoods. You see, I matched my hat to my vest and then you have the color of the shirt which goes with the pocket square, the blazer with the pants, and everything you see... what, you see that's the Sape , what… the Sape is not just anything. We must first define the Sape, the Sape is the company of ambiancers and elegant people. Most of the time, it was the parents who were the whites' cooks, they dressed neatly like Europeans and gradually, the Congolese appropriated this culture of dressing like Europeans and eating like Europeans. , came the heyday of music, so young men began to take music and clothes. Sape is many things, it is a behavior, it is a great culture, you must first have something in your head, you must not talk about Sape without saying anything. My clothing style is first of all linked to everything French, everything French so the choice and quality of the fabric, I don't wear just anything, I don't wear piracy and I know where to find quality clothes. We are now leaving the capital to reach another metropolis: Pointe Noire. On the Atlantic coast, the landscape changes radically, especially around the Gorges de Diosso. This geological curiosity of the region is the result of torrential rains which dug large cirques in the friable laterite. On this beach, vegetation barely covers the ruins of the old port of Loango, a former Kingdom which was the crossroads for the sale of more than two million slaves. Coming from the Gulf of Guinea countries, they were torn from their land with the complicity of the tribes in the areas affected by the raids. The violent cultural uprooting of the deportees was the least of the evils they suffered upon their arrival in America. The slaves took this avenue of mango trees to reach the beach where they were dragged onto the boats. Despite the erosion of time and rampant vegetation, this rare place of memory in Central Africa still has a sacred dimension. It is on this site steeped in history that the induction and funeral rites of the lords of the Kingdom of Loango are still practiced today. The ancient Tchibete lagoon has almost disappeared. The ocean is gaining ground every year . The beaches of Pointe Indienne and Kouilou are shrinking visibly. Making its way through the Mayombe forest massif, the Kouilou River flows into the Atlantic Ocean, 50 km from Pointe Noire. Born 1 century ago to satisfy the needs of the French colonial empire, Pointe Noire is today the 2nd city of Congo. The presence of the ocean offers a lifestyle very different from the inland regions of the country. The city currently has more than a million inhabitants. The oil industry has given an unprecedented boost to the entire city. In the center, on Boulevard du Général de Gaulle, the traffic jams are legendary and the activity is permanent. Around the market, taxis and public transport compete for customers. In the early morning, on Songolo beach which extends outside the town, numerous canoes return from fishing. In these waters, nearly 30,000 Beninese and Congolese compete, leading campaigns that can last for days. When the fishermen arrive, the fish are unloaded by the diggers, handymen who also lend a hand around the boat. Armed with carts, the Koroman help the women transport the fish they have just bought. The man in the green jumpsuit is Jean Félix. He works for the Rénatura association, which raises awareness among fishermen about safeguarding biodiversity. Since 2005, this NGO has worked in partnership with Congolese sailors to facilitate the release of sea turtles accidentally caught in artisanal fishing nets. My job is to tell the fishermen that when they capture a turtle they must release it, I then come the next day with new reels which will allow them to repair the nets. Since the launch of the program, more than 12,000 incidental captures have been detected and the turtles released. Here are the reels, there are 4 reels... During the spawning period we do patrols along the coast, we spot the tracks in the morning to monitor the new spawnings, then we follow the hatchings we accompany them towards the sea Unloaded, the fish must still be smoked away from the beach. The fishmongers here take the fish and smoke it to then sell it, because you have to process it before eating it, you can't eat raw fish, there are no canning factories, even if there are some. , they are not big enough to preserve all the fish that we have, so we have to smoke it and then at home, you know, people like to eat smoked fish. The smokehouse has the capacity to process a thousand fish. This essential operation lasts 2 days. The roadsides along Cayo Lake are full of stalls like the one in Salama, busy preparing a Maboké. This is a traditional recipe based on fish and spices, stewed and wrapped in banana or makasa leaves. There is fish inside, we add the spices, the onions, the pepper, we wrap it in leaves, we put it on the fire, it stews, it is good to eat, it This is what the Congolese love above all, and what's more, everything I prepare is organic. Cayo Lake south of Pointe Noire, on the road to Cabinda. In the past, settlers cultivated Papyrus plants there to exploit the fibers and develop a paper industry, which is why the Cayo is today nicknamed “Lake Papyrus”. An interesting fishing area, it is especially home to many species of birds: Weavers, Martins, Crested Fishers and even African cormorants, many of whom take advantage of the gentleness of this environment. It is in this haven of peace that our discovery ends. of the Congo. This Central African country will have revealed several faces: a wild nature which still deserves preservation efforts in the face of the appetites of the forestry industry, well-established traditions, and a strong personality which we can't wait to rediscover.
