When we travel to Kenya, we generally go to see wild animals. Here, nature is everywhere, and even on the motorbikes. But I am going to discover a more secret Kenya, where the wells know how to sing and where the buses know how to whistle. This is the sound of the bus calling customers. Here, the railway tracks are pedestrianized. So, to get lost in unknown deserts, to meet horned cows, to travel while getting some fresh air, the train is not bad. In Kenya, there is a place, a mythical place, an emblem, a mountain that climbs to more than 5,000 meters. Or more precisely, an ancient volcano, whose silhouette which emerges at dawn on the horizon is famous throughout the country. This is Mount Kenia. Mount Kenia is the second highest peak in Africa. It is located very close to the Equator and And on its slopes, when the sun rises, wild life slowly wakes up. Just before going to take my first train, I decided to savor this magical atmosphere a little. It's crazy because there, there are zebras in single file and right next to them, there are cows, quiet. So. Everyone lives together. They're pretty darn cows, by the way. They have huge horns. That's crazy. Good morning. How are you ? Your cows are incredible. Yes, they have big horns. But there are two different races here. Boranes and glue them with their large horns. Very pretty. What is the glued breed like? Glued. They are originally from Uganda. Yes, it's incredible. They cannot be easy to put away in the stable. No, it's not easy. They are free in nature. We make them sleep in herds at night and then they go to bully wherever they want. So you never put them in the stable? No no no. Oh no, they wouldn't like it. They might even fight with you. These cows do not like to be stressed. They want space, nature with grass. It's true that they look cool. Sometimes they become aggressive when the cubs are born, because they want to protect them from other cows and wild animals like lions. Moreover, lions cannot kill them because they protect themselves well thanks to their horns. You mean these cows can resist a lion? Yes. What do they do if a lion comes? They attack him. They stand in front of him, raise their heads and stand like that. They face the lion. They can even run towards the lion and scare it with their horns. My work tries to protect livestock from lions, but also to protect lions from livestock. Avoid them meeting each other because cows can be aggressive if they feel threatened. Oh yeah, they are brave. Yes, quite. Very courageous. But boran cows, the normal ones, are afraid of lions. They are fearful. If they see one, they run away. Oh, that's crazy. I didn't know that there were cows on this planet capable of fighting lions. That's crazy. And have you ever seen a cow gore a lion, really? Two years ago, a lion approached my herd's enclosure. And as soon as the herd saw the lion, they urinated. It was the first sign. And they started making this noise to warn of danger around them. Within ten minutes, we arrived with another farmer to check what was happening. And we saw a lion near the enclosure. He wanted to go over, but he was rather frightened by the cows, because they were circling and moving like that. And with their big horns, it scared the lion. The lion was scared and didn't kill them. He couldn't. He was too afraid of her. It's incredible. And did the cows kill the lion with their horns. No, they chased him away. And he was running and running. And so, are you at peace with your cows here? Nothing can happen to them? No nothing at all. And that's why I'm proud of them. No predator can attack them. And that’s thanks to their horns. And do these brave cows protect the fearful cows? Yes. Sometimes they protect themselves. In fact, normal cows hide behind the stuck ones. If I were a normal cow and you were a stuck one, at the slightest danger, I would do like that. I would hide behind it. They are magnificent, frankly. And look at the look on their faces. They are proud, they are beautiful. That's stupid. So, what are their qualities? They are good for milk, for meat, for... Why? No. Their quality is that they are very beautiful. They make little milk and their meat is not very good. Ah good ? And some tribes think that when you have a cow with very big horns, you are brave, you are valiant. Oh okay, okay. And so, are the ones who give you milk the others? Are these the fearful ones? No, they're only for meat. Just the meat? Yes. It’s true that they are beautiful, I understand you. They are wonderful. Honestly, these are among the most beautiful cows I have seen in my life. With maybe the Highlands of Scotland which aren't bad either, but they're really great. I love them, my cows. They are not stressed, they have no problems. They do what they want, they are free. And happy. Yes, they are always happy. Gorgeous. Well done. It was nothing. Well done. OK thank you. Ciao. That’s what life is like at the foot of Mount Kenia. The wildlife there is exceptional and the encounters are often delightful. It's a place that Kenyans love and recently they can come there by train. This is the small Naniuki station. There is the sign that is there. Which is the nearest station to Mount Kenya, which must be hiding somewhere around there in the mists. Mount Kenya is more than 5,000 meters above sea level. And there, the station is almost 2000. And that's a place... It's one of those very pleasant places where the weather is nice and cool. We're fine, even though we're on the Equator, here. And then this is a brand new train. Kenya is trying to revive rail transport a little. So, to get here to Naniwake, they resurfaced an old road from the British colonial era. And they are gradually starting the train. For the moment, there is one who comes on Friday and one who leaves on Sunday. That's all. Just to bring visitors who want to cool down here. We're going to go see that. So here I am, leaving for a long journey towards Nairobi, the capital of Kenya. We cannot say that this train runs at the speed of the cheetah. We are rather on a train that is failing. Six hours of travel for approximately 200 kilometers. But it’s already a big success. There is no longer a seat. Good morning. You are not seated in the same direction as the others, is that normal? Yes, because I look at nature through the open door. Ah, do you like nature? So that's... In fact, it's the best seat on the train. You have to be at the very end, there. Yes that's it. Here in Kenya, everyone loves nature. So this place, for me, is perfect. And yes, so she took the right place, you were fooled. But no, we're fine. We too can look out the window. It doesn't matter what place we have. We are delighted because it is our very first time on a train. So, we have fun. Oh yes, it's the first time. It’s true that the train is brand new. So how does it feel to get on a train? What does that feel like? I love it I love it. Really. I didn't think it was so big, so spacious. And then, we have time to look outside and see landscapes that we don't usually see. In fact, it's very roads. I am really very happy to take this train. Really ? Yeah.. And so, did you imagine it was like that on a train? That it was moving, that we could see the landscape clearly? What did you imagine before getting in? I thought it moved up and down, like on a merry-go-round. But actually, no. It's pretty regular. Ah yes, it doesn't move like that, but it moves a little like that. Yes, but ultimately, it's quite gentle. It feels like you're sliding like a snake. And what's it like to be in a snake? It's good. Because since it doesn't shake, you can drink and you can send messages on your phone. That's good. But there we arrive at our station. Ah, have you arrived? Yeah. Okay. Okay, okay. Thank you so much. And thank you. Bye Bye. Are you leaving the snake, then? Yes, we need to get out quickly. Can I say something? Yes. I preferred to take the train than the Matatu, the bus. Because in Kenya, buses are very noisy. And I don't really like it. And the seats are not comfortable. I never have room for my legs. So, I prefer the train. And I would like it to be there every day. So, do you dream of there being a lot of trains? Oh yes, I want a lot of it. And to go everywhere. Everywhere ? Oh yes. Because it's much more comfortable than the bus. So what do you think about the organization inside this car like this online? I think that it's good. You really have space. I'm not really used to taking the train in Kenya, but I try to imagine, to have ideas to improve it. Ok. So, what would the train of your dreams be like? Faster. Yes, especially faster, because sometimes it stops for a long time at certain stations. Thank you so much. I hope you continue to love trains for a long time. Thanks to you. I saw your look earlier. I have the impression that you want to talk to me. For what ? Because I too prefer the train to the bus. Firstly because it’s cheaper and secondly because here, we don’t get hassled. Who can annoy you in the Matatou people, sometimes they rip you off. They ask you for more money than the normal rate. Whereas on the train, the price is fixed. No one is asking you for anything extra. So the train is better. But you will ruin the buses. Don't worry about them. The Matatou drivers have a golden job. I finally arrive in Nairobi, the capital, in the oldest station. And this station, Nairobi, owes it everything. Because the city was gradually built around the station, which was initially just a small technical stopover along the railway line, near a watercourse called Ngari, Nairobi, which means fresh water in the Massaille language. A small stopover that became a capital. Change of atmosphere. It is a huge city of over four million people. With its business districts, its historic center, its green residential areas, I really want to go and see what the famous Matatou look like, these extremely colorful buses which transport passengers throughout the country. It hurts my ears. This is the sound of the bus calling customers. There, you have all the technique to fill a bus with customers in ten minutes. Actually, look It's the exhaust. In fact, it is a whistle that is installed in the exhaust. It hurts the ears, yes. Motorcycle taxis aren’t pretty either. Look at this. What kind of monster are you? An alien. Alien, well yes. And are you very dangerous or not too dangerous? No. No ? And so your bike is a little mix of alien and Marley, right? Exactly, that's my look. Alright. Okay, thank you very much. So you are scary. What is this monster? He's not a monster, he's the Joker. Joker's laughter. Joker, The Joker. Ah, Joker. You know, the bad guy in Batman. Ah, it's Joker. He is his enemy. That's wonderful. But it's still a lot of work, all that. Yes a lot. It took me two or three days to do everything. Because there is the paint, the stickers. For the helmet, you have to go see a guy there. He is the one who paints them. And you, do you like colors? Yes, it attracts customers. And have you noticed a difference with color and without color? With these colors, I noticed that I attracted girls more. While without colors, it's a bit like everyone. All right. Because you prefer to transport girls, right? Yeah. Ok. And then there is my favorite. You are magnificent, magnificent. Hi. You remind me of someone, you wouldn't be the type to take out credit, would you? Oh no, I don't give credit. Why are you open like that? Because I want to promote ecology. I am a Kenyan environmental ambassador. All right. And why do you want to promote the environment? I see how Kenia is today. If we do not protect or change our environment now, future generations will not be able to benefit from Kenya's riches. And so, do you attract customers as much with this little green carpet as with colorful outfits? Of course. When you see a bike like mine, you inevitably wonder: Why are this guy and his bike all green? And so, the customers, they are like you now. They call out to me, they ask me and I tell them: It’s from Kenya. We must prioritize environmental protection. Alright. Can I touch ? Of course. It's not eco-friendly, it's synthetic. Yes, it's plastic. If I used real weed it would never hold up. With the heat of the sun, it would dry quickly. So a solution had to be found. Ok. And then, it goes a long way because the bike is completely decorated. It's everywhere. Yes, everywhere, everywhere. It is entirely forested. And is there a season? Does it turn green in the rainy season and turn yellow in the dry season? Sometimes, with the heat, the grass gets a little dirty and yellowish. So, I clean it to give it a beautiful green color. Ok, so it follows the seasons a bit. Yes that's it. That's funny. And can I take a ride with you? No problem, I'll take you. And so, I'm going Do you want a hand? Yes. Get in the back. Are you going there? With... Wait, hold this for me. Ok. Welcome to business class. Okay, dry. And do you have a helmet? Yes, I have that one. That ? I'm not sure it's that safe. It's a bit small. No, it's you who has a big head. I'm growing it a little. Like that ? It's okay, are you ready? Lets' go. You don't think I'll ride a motorcycle in Kenya one day with the credit guy? Is your motorcycle comfortable? Of course she is. Shall we sell it first? Yes. The race. The helmet, I'm not sure I'm well protected. That's a bit fair, isn't it? Isn't it dangerous to drive on these roads with all this traffic? Yes, it's dangerous. You have to know what you are doing and have certain rules. First rule: on a motorcycle, you must not drink alcohol. Second: you must always wear your helmet. And third: never stress on the road. No stress. And how do you keep from being stressed? When I feel like I'm going to start to stress, I already slow down. I stand aside and start thinking calmly to have a good mental state. So you have a great mind. Yes, you have to have a mind of steel. It's true because it's between the dust, the traffic, the cars in all directions, it's not... There's dust there. Do you see these guys? Yeah. Well, they encourage me. You are a star. Yes, I am a star. They have never seen a beautiful plant like me. And your pleasure is more in driving a motorcycle or more in being a star? No, what I like is riding my motorcycle and driving it well. Because when I see them, they distract me a little and it could cause me to hit a car. Are there a lot of motorbike taxis in Nairobi like that? Yes, a lot in Nairobi. But me, with my green suit, I am unique. And you too, in a way, are unique. Motorcycles and buses in Nairobi are really something. Without them, Nairobi would not be the same. They are part of the mood of the city. But I would also like to taste the train. On the commuter train, at a time when residents of working-class neighborhoods go to work. I have an appointment at 5:00 a.m. with one of the figures from the Kibera district, where he takes his train, along the track, at kilometer 14. Hello. Hello, are you Philippe? Yes. Mike. Mike. delighted. delighted. To meet you. How are you ? GOOD. But it's very early. Yes, it's very early. You know, we Kenyans are workers. We get up early to work, but we also go to bed very late. Watch out, there's a motorcycle coming quickly. Because in fact, it is the station, but it is also the level crossing. It's both at the same time. Yes, Yes, it's a little suburban stop. And we know that this is where the train will stop. So people are gradually arriving to wait for the train here. And it’s true that there are starting to be people waiting a little along the tracks. There is only one train in the morning and another in the evening in the other direction. So, if we miss it, all we have to do is take the bus or whatever we can. So, you have to come early to make sure you don't miss it. That's why you brought me here so early, there was no choice. No, no choice. So here we are going to Kibera, right? Yes, in Kibera. This is where my school is. So I go there every day. And Kibera is truly one of the largest slums in Africa. Yes. But above all it is a place with lots of happy people. Mike is a dance teacher. He has been working in Kibera for years. It's his world. What are these walls with squares there, all along the railway tracks? These are homes. It was built after the railway, in order to prevent people from crossing the railway tracks randomly. So they built these buildings along the tracks and with their backs to the tracks, and it's rented to the residents of the neighborhood. So each square, inside, is a house, but it does not face the road side. That's it. And that avoids having access to the rail. It forms a sort of protective wall. Yes, but it's true, there are many, many of these houses. Yes, that’s crazy. There you go, it’s Kibera. You're ready ? We are going down. It's sporty, isn't it? Good. This is Kibera. There are a lot of people on the path. It's the street. We also use the track as our main road. You saw how steep it is on each side. Whereas there, it's straight and easy to walk. My school is that way. Lets' go. There are a lot of people on this railway line. It’s the most pedestrian-friendly railway I’ve ever been on. Yes, it's kind of the only street. That's where it happens. It’s a real place to live. This is Mike's favorite neighborhood. He knows the sector like the back of his hand. And Kibera is quite simply the largest slum in Africa. There are said to be over a million people here, but no one has ever really counted. It’s the world of making do, of odd jobs. An incredible maze of tiny streets where you can easily get lost. In the depths of Kibera, Mike is like a fish in water, but above all a kind of protective big brother, known to all. Hi, how are you ? She's one of my students. Is he a good teacher or not? Yes. For what ? He motivates us. Really ? Yes. How does it move you forward? He lets us express ourselves. He tells us that we can be whoever we want to be, so we give it our all. And what did that change for you? I always thought I was lost and that I would never get out. But when I went to his classes, I understood that I could have a better future. And how did he manage to make you change like that? He tells us to never give up, to always keep believing. And it works ? Do you have a better life? Yes it works. For example, now I study more at school. I speak more confidently and have a better command of English. Oh no ? Yes. Are you a teacher of consciousness, if I dare say, or a teacher of dance? I teach everything. You know, dancing is cerebral. Through dance, I try to change the mindset of people here, to break the vicious circle of poverty. We have to break that and give hope, another direction. And it all happens in your head. And to change that, you have to talk, communicate, and believe in yourself. Because what was the vicious circle? It was: we are poor, so we think we will stay that way, so we do not undertake anything that will help us get by. Was that what you wanted to change? Yes, because in fact, people reproduce the same patterns. Your mother lives in this place, so you tell yourself that you too will live here like her. Your mother doesn't make enough money to live on. It will be the same for you too. Your mother was pregnant at 14. You'll know it too, because you think it's written like that. But what I think is that we have to break these stereotypes, break this vicious circle which makes you repeat the same mistakes. And then you can be the person who says no. And when you say no, you change your life. But hey, let's go to dance school instead, you'll understand. This is my school. This is where the magic happens. They're all there already. Good morning. Good morning. Are you ready today? Have you warmed up? Not yet ? Okay, well go ahead, warm up. There are people, it’s successful. Yes, I have over 2,000 students. 2,000? There are a lot of us. It's like a big company. Yes, a company of optimism. We are a big family. We only highlight what is positive. You know, in Kenya, there are more than 82 different ethnic groups. But here, it doesn't matter where you come from, who you are. Here, we are all united by dance. Okay, everyone, now let's repeat. In position. Go ahead, hold her tight with her tutu. Do the tour like this. Yes, that's it. Well, it wasn't too bad. That's good, but I expected a little more confidence and control from you. I will take an example. You two, come and see. You looked totally scared in front of each other during the dance. But here, now, as you stand face to face, eye to eye and because you know each other, you look kindly and without fear. Why don't I get that look when you dance? Does he scare you? Does she scare you? Why when you dance do you feel fear in your eyes? We're going to do it again. Both of you need to gain confidence in yourself. And I want to see you dance together. All right ? GOOD. Look him in the eye. There you have it. I know sometimes I ask a lot of you, but remember to have confidence in yourself. You know, you have to know how to give, give and give again. Because the more you give, the more you will receive in exchange. There is a great energy in this class, it's positive. Yes thanks. My thing is to start with dancing. Then I try to see how I can help them move forward. For example, I would like to introduce you to two of these girls. Good morning. We started a soap factory, liquid soap. And it was you who gave them these ideas? No, what I did was support them so that they learned how to do it. I don't know how to make soap, but I know how to manage an organization. And then, I helped them find a small loan to launch their business and so that they could buy equipment, make soap and sell it. And ultimately, it makes them happier because they have a project. And it works ? Yes, it's a small success in the neighborhood. They are sold in a few stores at a good price. How did he manage to give you the energy to do this? He is very motivating. So when we told him about our desire, he immediately liked the idea. He pushed us to develop it and he helped us find a little money to get started. Are you more than a dance teacher? Yes. Dancing is a very small part of the job. This is my way of attracting young people here. And afterwards, thanks to dance, I can tackle other subjects. For example, I give them free sanitary napkins. I make them talk about their worries. In short, I try to help the whole neighborhood as much as I can. And what drives you deep down? Why are you doing all this? Because it's huge. To be honest, I never thought I would do this one day. Because when I was younger, I lived day by day with my problems. But back then, I didn't have a place to go like here. And little by little, I fell into crime, into lots of bad plans. One day, I told myself that if I want to become better and evolve in the right direction, I must break this vicious circle and change. That's why I got involved in my neighborhood. And by giving all these dance lessons and all this advice to young people, I know that it helps them grow. And they too, then, will go and support the little ones. Then the circle will be closed. And it’s very touching what you do. Really, it's very, very touching. I am honored. And you know, here they say: The sky is the limit. This meeting with Mike was just brilliant. It was suddenly like seeing a ray of sunshine appear in a somewhat dark alley. Nairobi is an immense anthill from the largest slum in Africa to the gleaming business district, it is Africa in all its extreme contrasts. I'm going to take the train again, heading to the central station. This time, I will go north, towards a Kenya less popular with visitors. Good morning. Can I sit next to you? Yes No problem. THANKS. How are you ? Very well thank you. Where are you going like that? I'm going to Mbagasi to see my friend. We're going to do a little business. And do you like trains? Yes. It's fast, it's spacious and there are no traffic jams. So I'm sure I'll arrive on time. It's very fast, it's the best. Because you know, in Nairobi, there are a lot of cars, a lot of traffic, people everywhere on the roads. At least the train is fast, practical and efficient. There is something that makes me very curious, is that Barack Obama, the former president of the United States, he is from Kenya. His grandmother is in Kenya. How do Kenyans see it? In fact, Barack Obama is from Kenya. So, for us, he is one of us. And since he was president of the United States of America, we feel like we're part of it too. Ah really ? Yes. When he was elected, we were happy. We felt so powerful. We felt even more invested in the world, more integrated. And since he comes from here and has a lot of power, we Kenyans all said to ourselves that we were going to be in the spotlight. Because before the election of Barack Obama, foreigners did not necessarily know Kenia. But thanks to him, Kenya became known throughout the world. We told ourselves that as soon as he was in business, everything would become much easier for us, that we would make money, do business. We also said to ourselves that it would be easier for us to go to America. But Barack Obama, he was president of the United States, not president of Kenya. Yes, but you never forget your roots. You never forget where you come from. So, even if he is president of the United States, even if he comes from somewhere else, deep down, he is Kenyan. His heart is anchored here. Did he really help Kenya? Yes a bit. He reduced corruption. He developed new roads and new buildings to American standards, particularly near his grandmother's village. In his grandmother's village? Yes, in the village. And you know, she's known throughout the country. And despite her old age, she continues to help and care for people. And today, he remains very loved by Kenyans? Yes, it is very popular. In my opinion, tomorrow, if he returned to the country, he would be directly elected President of Kenya without any problem. Ok. Hey, I didn't think it would trigger such emotion. It's still strong for you. I have the impression that his election was yesterday. It was so huge. We cannot forget it. I think it might happen again one day. Please. Come on, have a good trip. I'm coming soon. Have a good trip. I decide to push even further, towards the North, where visitors rarely go. A place far from postcard landscapes, burned by the sun, stifling, desert. A few oases, people in strange, dark, round huts. It's another Kenya, a radically different atmosphere. This is the Shelby Desert. Here, water is extremely rare. It is a camel's paradise, capable of withstanding extreme heat and remaining without drinking for weeks. I adore. The slightest point of shadow is in high demand. There is everyone. There are camels, donkeys, men. Hello Hello. That means hello in camel. In camel, sorry, I always mix things up. Something's happening, it's the camel's watering hole. There are people singing. It's incredible. Oh dear ! It's a super deep well. Dado. Good morning. The cow ! It's super deep, it makes you dizzy. How many are there? There are one, two, three, four. There are six guys who bring up the water by hand for the camels. While singing. Honestly, it's It's mesmerizing. I think it's the singing that does that. And they're tough. Dado, hello. They are very busy. Is that very deep? Yeah, not bad. And what is this song? Is this to help you? It's for... What is it? This allows us to gently raise the water while working as a team. Slowly ? But why does it have to be gentle? It's very hot here and it's tiring work. So, singing gives us energy and it is also a prayer for the camels. Yes, so it's a song both to give yourself energy and to pray? Yes, these are praises for animals and also for men. But then, you, all of you who worked at the bottom of this well, are you still there or are you the owners of the camels who brought the camels to drink? These are our camels, the camels of our family. And how many camels are thirsty? Every six days. Ah yes, six days. So every six days, you come here and you go down to Puy all together. And yes. How are you. How are you. There they go. Good morning. Dado. Good morning. Is this Puy a place for everyone? Can all camel owners in the area come? Yes of course. It's for anyone who needs it. This then doesn't belong to anyone. He belongs to the community. We must therefore respect it and not damage it. And where does the water come from, basically? Water comes from the earth. In fact, here, we are in the bed of a dry river. And the lower the water level goes, the more you have to dig to get the water. You always have to dig a little. After my camels have drunk, I should clean the well. That way, the next breeder who comes will find this place as clean as I found it. But now, I really have to go back. We don't have much time. Do you mind if I continue the work? My camels in They are thirsty. It's true that they are waiting. They are thirsty. It's rare for a camel to be thirsty, actually. You have to be strong to do that, they must hurt their backs, right? We are used to. It's part of our job. Of course, sometimes you can get injured. But hey, it’s our daily life. We pay attention and then we take turns, we change places. Is there a better place than another in the human column? For the one at the bottom, it's hard, because he's the one who puts the water in the bucket and brings it up. And the others must both bring up the filled bucket and lower the empty bucket. It's hard too. The last one just has to empty the bucket. Maybe it's a little easier. I think the best place isn't him, it's yours. It looks relaxed. Yes, it's true. You agree I have my feet in the water, because I have to check the flow of water flowing through the small hole at the bottom. And therefore, manage the water level. It's finish ? Yes, it's over. Listen, well done. But you come from far away to take one or two days to come and get this water? Yes. My village is located one to two days' walk from here. Do you take one or two days to come and collect water? Is there no water nearer? No. Here, it is the only corner of the region where we find filled wells. Is there no water near you? For what ? Because it is an extremely dry region. In fact, we are nomads. We move based on where our herds can find food. It depends on the seasons. Sometimes there is water nearby, sometimes not. Right now, it's the dry season. And here is the only place where I can find water. Ok. Is she good? It is loaded with good minerals and it is good for animals. There is nothing better than this water for our camels. It gives them strength, power. So why not drink it too? Also, it will bring me its benefits. Thank you so much. There are several Kenyans. There is the Kenya of nature and wild animals. And then, a lesser-known Kenya, that of burning deserts, cities of extreme contrasts, the Kenya of whimsical buses and trains that take their time. A trip to Kenya always calls for another, slower, more in-depth, more focused on men. Finally, in Kenya, the most beautiful trip is with the Caignans.
