Concrete Form / Expansion Joints / Troubles and Changes.

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uh so here's my expansion joint material just half inch thick expansion joint foam is what it is similar to shipping foam really what it reminds me of let's quickly do a back of the napkin just in the head calculation on how much this floor is going to expand and if this is going to be enough and it should be at least i believe it will be so concrete expansion is very similar to steel's expansion that's why you can put rebar into concrete and they don't tear each other apart due to temperature changes and i know that steel on average expands about a thousandth of an inch per inch per 100 degrees fahrenheit you know in all directions right so an inch block of steel raise it 100 degrees it'll expand to you know a thousandth of an inch larger than what it was so this is 13 feet wide the pad so 13 feet what is that in inches 13 feet so that's 146 i think 146 inches so if we raise the temperature in here 100 degrees fahrenheit this pad would expand right to left about 146 thousandths of an inch that's half inch material so slightly over an eighth of an inch expansion more than good enough right to left now front to back is totally different because the expansion's the same per unit but there's a lot more units in length right it's 47 feet long so that's gonna expand what is that 47 and 12 inches that's that's 564. 564 inches from front to back so this will expand per 100 degrees fahrenheit in length slightly over a half of an inch right 5 8 of an inch no not 5 8 of an inch 100 yeah 5 8 of an inches 0.625 so slightly over half an inch let's just say that we'll have expansion joint material in the back and in the front so we'll have an inch of expansion capability front to back which is more than enough and if we get temperature swings any larger than that i don't care if this pushes on the pad or not right so should be adequate i think anyway back of the napkin right correct me if i'm wrong but i think that's pretty close [Applause] so there's a look at our expansion joint material nothing fancy just some soft foam right it's got a tear line on it looks like you could take a half inch off of it if you wanted to easily and we're just connecting that to the wall with uh some construction adhesive man that autofocus is absolutely horrible using the old caulking gun right here she's so excited i haven't talked much about hazelnut she's gotten big she's she she's what she's in good shape but we have to watch her really close because she has she has uh she has seizures she does have health issues and she will sometimes fall straight out of the tree and start having a seizure on the ground so we have to watch her she's she's good but you know she's she's got some issues she's by far the best jumping squirrel that we've had out of all three this of the squirrels we've raised the little hazelnut is a good jumper stop biting me get on the tree they love to play that's really all they want to do so she's gonna get in the bail have a squirrel in the bill so i'm in phase two of my gutter installation it's not raining today so i figured i'd take advantage of that i bought a tube of this gutter sealer it's just a adhesive that stays flexible or a sealer that stays flexible because you know these aluminum gutters swell and contract and i don't want it leaking at the joints so i just bought a tube of it's not very pricey i got to get these gutters on the lower side of the shop because they're going to erode all that water that runs off the roof is going to erode my bank that's supporting my shop extremely fast if i don't go ahead and start taking care of that wow so putting gutters on the lower side of the shop was a big priority for me i'm glad to have it done my son helped me it was definitely harder than the other side simply because there's just no access with at least no ladder access where i extended the overhangs of this roof by a foot that made it even harder than it already was to reach up to the you know to the fascia board and get especially trying to adjust gutters right they got to be pretty close so we ended up just getting on the roof and doing it made it easier what's so good about that it's just an adhesive that or glue that stays somewhat flexible because these are aluminum they will expand and contract you know with heat plus so if the adhesive was just strictly solid or dried hard it would crack and start leaking so if it stays flexible you know it moves with the gutters instead of that cell kind of stuff i don't know if it's silicone or not it's something like that all right okay okay [Music] yeah i know there we go you let go of it it won't fall now i'll have to mount it to the building well there's the downspout hooked up at least okay with the straps and concrete anchors now like that make sure that i'm level so the reason this looks so high off the ground is because this is going to be filled filled with dirt back here so won't quite look like that after after it's done here's the concrete anchors that i'm going to use just put them in the hole and then hammer this pin in and it spreads it out it's just a bracket to mount this gutter there we go those are really nice anchors they look good right and they hold pretty good for stuff like this these are made by cobra drive nail anchors is the brand or is the name i think i need to pick up some shorter bits i don't have any of the short mason bits well i don't have a quarter inch short mason but i got a few of the others [Music] there we go it's good enough right is it supposed to go in there or not come on wow that didn't make it easy that's good enough now once that's filled in you know nobody's going to look at this anyway but still now all the water will go quite a ways down to the creek right get it away from this area so it's raining let's climb up on the roof see if our gutters are doing what they should be doing i don't see water pouring over the edge so that's a good start let's walk down here wow this is nice to walk down through here without anybody pouring rain on you oh it's working i can hear it running out the pipe listen now like i said this is not going to look like this when i'm done it's not raining hard my truck windows down it's working it's working looks pretty good to me i don't see any deep spots or anything the water's moving from this end down to the sh to the downspout i didn't see any leaks in the joints while i was down there that's a good thing people have mentioned gutter guards and stuff because of all these trees and stuff will definitely fill these gutters every year probably 17 times with leaves and twigs and stuff we'll trim them back as much as we can but you know the wind blows leaves and you're not going to stop it possibly some gutter guards of some sort although i'm extremely skeptical of those especially some of the ones with the little holes when you have the leaf stems or like a cedar or a evergreen tree with a little twigs man that just gets stuck in those i've seen it then you gotta pick each one out individually can't blow them out can't sweep them out it's working water's moving good so here's what i've decided to do and that is to pour directly to the top of the pad from the center of the shop back even though that will put a little error about an inch and a quarter by the time we get to the very back of into our new pad you know i'm willing to to live with that right because no pad's perfect you just get them as close as you can and i want to avoid as much of a transition as i can plus it really won't matter from the center of the shop back because i plan to build the wall of this grinding room back right over this transition so you won't even see it but from that point forward you will and that's where we're going to build our screed plate and then we'll address the inaccuracies in the old pad in the future but i'm not willing to put that much error into the new work from there forward so that's the plan pour directly to the top of the pad here screed plate from here up so this doesn't convey well through through the camera but hopefully you can see how poorly this concrete was graded right here is the one of the worst spots a big old pocket now i'd like to think that they did this on purpose not the pocket but graded this so heavily towards the door to you know run water outside the shop but i just don't think that's the case they didn't put rebar in the concrete they didn't put a footer on the shop they didn't compact the ground so why would they have then said whoa you know we need to grade that towards the door really i just think you know maybe they didn't know right and they just done the best they could but we're going to have to work up to this and our new pad is going to be higher than this old pad so we got to put a screed plate here we got to have something that's strong enough to keep the concrete from bowing it and you know something thin enough to where we don't have a huge gap here when we pull that screed plate out once this concrete's you know set hard enough to remove it so that's what we need to work on is our screed plate [Music] [Music] so i've just set this plate on top of the rebar here and i can just barely see the laser on here and all i'm going to do is mark it on one end mark it on the other straight line in between the two make a cut all the way down the length of it and then concrete anchor this to the old pad but in a way that i can pull it out right but yet it will hold it up against the pad flush so that's the plan [Music] so right about there is where it's going to be and i need to fix this to the pad but yet in a way that it can be removed as well so we'll put an anchor out here here there and maybe one or two back there do so [Music] so so there's what three inches looks like it's quite a bit right there's going to be quite a lip there but that three inches is not a bad thing actually as long as it continues over quite a ways to this way because that's a pretty good amount that's enough for us small concrete pour actually you know use some bonding agent and potentially you just cap this pad right up here now i don't know how it acts over here it may come up high but you know we got too much too much stuff over there to check it but you get the idea it doesn't really matter but then it tapers off into nothing so i think bringing this grade up an inch was a good idea and changing from my original idea of splitting the difference almost between the error front and back right i was an inch lower that means even though this pad is an inch high right now it'd be two inches high if i poured seven inches thick and left the grade as it was the only benefit to doing it the way i originally intended was that it would take an inch of air out of the front right i decided i'd move the majority of my air up front right that gives me a good two and a half three inches right that i can skim coat the top and a thicker skim of concrete if i use like a you know a grout mix it'll be a better outcome because it'll be thicker right it'll have more more strength to it i believe so i may texture the floor put some anchors in it potentially you know i don't know use a bonding agent and then pour a skim coat over this and just accept the inch error that i'm going to have inch and a half high on my new pad in order to screed to this floor from basically here back but you know the transition will be good and this wall will cover it anyway so it doesn't make any difference but i think that was my best option given the circumstances that you know i'm working with here so i've gave this expansion joint a lot of thought and not that i don't think that what i have here you know if it stayed in place wouldn't work i think it would work just fine the problem is that i don't have anything to screed to on this side and i can easily see you know a few guys in here pumping concrete around this stuff flopping off the wall because it hasn't stuck well to anything that i've tried and it's just peeling off on its own so you imagine it getting hit with a screed and stuff i'm just decided that i'm not going to use this stuff i'm going to peel this off and i got something that i think will work even better give me something to screen to and perfectly serve as an expansion joint as well do [Music] ah [Music] [Music] [Applause] [Music] so foreign so so so let me tell you why i chose to use these products at least my thought process behind uh why i chose these now i needed something to screen to something to you know put a board on to pull the concrete out good and level all the way across the shop something that wouldn't move so this 1x6 wet treated lumber you know plenty good for that also need an expansion joint around the perimeter this will somewhat act as an expansion joint on its own because it's wet treated it's probably as expanded as it's ever going to be right you can you can almost see the the treating agent that's in this that's so wet and it will only dry out and shrink in the future at least that's my thought anyway but i decided that i would also cap this with some of this half inch insulating foam just in case right and to give some insulating property in between the pad and the and the wall right i don't know if you'd want to use this on its own it's relatively rigid although you know we'll give some and i'm not for sure if you'd want to use this on its own as an expansion joint but between the two right you're going to have a gap between this material and the lumber and in between the lumber and the wall and all together it should give way more than enough expansion room for my concrete pad to grow or to move right so that's my thought process behind the materials that i chose should work should work fine i think so i've got some work that i need to do along this back wall before i can put my expansion joint all the way across it and where i cut out this center section of pad i couldn't get my wet saw completely flush against the wall so it left me with a portion of the old pad the old concrete floor sticking out from under the wall a bit and that stops me from running my expansion joint completely you know against the wall so i'm going to have to use air hammer and chip that out a little better that way i can get a good flush joint all the way across the back of the shop and it doesn't look funny you know on one side versus other not that really matters but you know i'd like for it to be a little neater than what it would be otherwise if i just left it like this so air hammer it is even though it's not my favorite tool to run you know sometimes you have to [Music] [Music] [Music] so like i said last week i've decided to screed to the top of the pad on this back section of the shop even though this is the highest portion of my existing pad the old pad and is really about an inch and a quarter this back 25 percent of the shop about an inch and a quarter inch and a half higher than what i really want to be so what that will do is end up with a pad that slightly slopes to the outside wall here now i don't plan on washing down cars or anything like that in here so it's really not a concern as far as where water is going to go and if it ever was you could end up you could put a drain in this wall and it wouldn't wouldn't make any difference but water will tend to want to run to to the side because of this issue but you know this is a rebuild and not new construction so you just have to settle on some imperfections you know and deal with them i'm sure that the guys who've rebuilt old homes can attest you know you just try to end up with the product that you're happy with and settle with you and not being exactly what you want but that's what i'm going to do run my treated lumber all the way up to the top of the pad instead of to the top of the laser on this back wall [Applause] so some of you guys may remember me buying this bauer 20 volt cordless drill four or five months ago for this project simply because it had the hammer feature and at the time i didn't want to spend the money on a higher priced drill right i wanted to try this and you know see if it meet my needs and up to now it has actually it's done pretty good but today the battery charger decided that it no longer wanted to charge my batteries now luckily i did buy the extended warranty for this thing when i bought it because i you know expected that i probably have some issues and i was correct so it's always the electronics almost that crap out on these so i'll be able to get it replaced but still it's a headache to have to deal you know with exchange you know going to town and dealing with all that but first problem a little little disappointed really that happened so soon [Music] um uh so these tapcon anchors definitely nice you don't have to deal with setting you know a separate anchor in the wall right drill your hole run this in it you know they hold pretty good i like those a little pricey but nice so man there is a lot of prep work involved in you know pouring a concrete pad a lot of work that a lot of people wouldn't even even think about but my idea here is that i want everything to be as straightforward as possible for the guys that come in here to place this concrete that's all i want them to do come in here pour the concrete in here screed to my selected points finish it and that's it right i'll worry about all the details so still need to finish the form in front of the shop or otherwise my concrete will just pour out in the driveway which i don't want so i've got to do that finish greasing up uh or spread my formula release agent on my forms here this is just vegetable shortening same thing i used on the forms for the concrete pudding and it worked really well not only for fried chicken right multi-use product got to remember to loosen these bolts or else these things won't come out when the time comes and maybe weld on a couple eyelets that way i have something to pull from because as soon as this concrete's set up strong enough to where you know can hold its own shape these are coming out got to figure out where my control joints are going to be because all concrete cracks there's two types that that is and that that will crack right and hopefully by putting control joints in your concrete you can persuade the concrete to break in that weakened plane or weaken joint that you intentionally put in the concrete so i'll probably end up putting three across the pad here breaking this into four sections and hopefully it will crack down in that joint and not diagonally across the floor now the reason why i'm doing seven inches of concrete in here a lot of people would do four some people do six right and i'm doing seven and the reason for that is because i don't know what the future holds in this building for me and have an opportunity to put a good strong floor in here and not try to you know get by with as little as it would work could bring in a big boring meal in the future which i would love to have could bring in a power hammer for doing blacksmithing which is a big interest of mine that i may try to pursue in the future i just don't know right forklift whatever you get the idea and i want this to be plenty strong which it will be there's no doubt about that so that's it i think man i'll be glad to get this done it'll it'll be nice to have the roof and the floor done and then it's just details so that's it i think so thanks for watching guys i really appreciate it thanks to my viewers patrons and subscribers you guys are awesome it's much appreciated so that's it thanks for watching and i'll see you next time hold on to your dream oh i know you wanna scream since the day you're born you're just a flower on your own waiting for the sun to blossom
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Channel: Steve Summers
Views: 45,759
Rating: undefined out of 5
Keywords: Repair, fix, motor repair, how to, Milling, metal lahte, machine shop, metal work, machinist, cnc, welding, rebuild, beautiful, awesome, homemade, heavy duty, machines, Abom79, restore, tools, custom, success, precision, surface grinder, truck, shaper, amazing, Railroad, Anvil, brazing, DIY, wood, machining, metalshaper, restoration, K&T, Tips, tricks, industrial, mini lathe, Bandsaw, wildlife, car, cold start, blacmsmith, maker, outdoors, frist start, Blocks, concrete, construction, remodel, home improvement, Gutters, strange
Id: SpultCfbvLo
Channel Id: undefined
Length: 37min 26sec (2246 seconds)
Published: Sat Nov 28 2020
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