COMPLETE GUIDE to PUPPY TRAINING - What to train FIRST

hi everybody this is a puppy training tutorial compilation of the most important behaviors to train your new puppy firstly congratulations on your new puppy and i hope you enjoy the tutorials the first thing you want to do when using food is teach your puppy how to take the treat out of your hand some puppies won't find the treat very quickly so if you're trying to train them something then it interferes with the training so make sure that they can find the treat immediately and eat it also if you're going to be using treats on the floor teach your puppy to find the treat i like to use a pointing gesture to help them out if they can't find it good job it really depends on your puppy's personality as to what behaviors you'll work on first if you have a puppy that's very shy and reserved i don't suggest working on that game which is no mugging where you get the puppy to back away from your hand and then reinforce instead i suggest teaching that puppy if they're worried about hands to touch your fingers and receive a treat for that so i'll link a tutorial on how to train that that is a great exercise for puppies that are a little bit worried and reserved as well as teaching the puppy to like handling so conditioning handling to be something positive is one of the first things you work on with your puppy if your puppy's not that interested in food i don't suggest working on leave it exercises right away instead i suggest working on attention games recall things where your exercises where your puppy is running towards you and being reinforced with food if your puppy doesn't seem that interested in food i suggest one of the first games that you play is an attention game where you're motivating your puppy to want to move towards you and move towards the food rather than a no mugging or a leave-it game are you ready puppy so you move away from your puppy click as they come towards you or mark with a marker word and then drop another treat boy oh boy awesome if your puppy was really not interested in food you could also toss the treats to make them more exciting like that it helps if you use treats that are a different color than the surface of the floor so your puppy finds them easier to find good job puppy if you have a puppy that is over excited about the food i suggest using low value treats like his kibble to train with it first and work on impulse control games calmness around food and the settle now i suggest working on the settle with all puppies check out the written description for this video with links to video tutorials on how to train the specific behaviors i talked about in this video puppies start to learn the moment they are born even inside the uterus puppies are learning through the environment you can start to train your dog with food the moment your dog finds food reinforcing as you can see here this five we called foster puppy is finding food very reinforcing and we can start to capture the behaviors that we like if your dog is getting distracted and wandering away this means that the treat is not reinforcing to your dog try using a variety of different food to see which one is the most reinforcing to your dog remember to keep it healthy you can use real meat and your dog's daily diet to reinforce the behaviors you like there are many ways to reinforce your dog such as using food toys and access to the environment here you can see i'm reinforcing the behavior of a wonderful recall and attention with the reward of getting to plan the environment again you can also use access to dogs and people as a way to reinforce the behaviors that you like an example of this is never letting your dog meet a person or another dog if they're barking or whining instead you're going to wait for that moment that your dog is calm and relaxed and that is the moment you're going to give your dog permission to go and say hi to the other dog or person see you next time and don't forget to subscribe to channel kiko pup is footage of one of the first training sessions i had with wish if i didn't give her a piece of food immediately which she would then take hard she would bark whine and seem frustrated i made sure she had a meal before training so she wasn't hungry and had food around the house any time she settled calmly i would get some food and drop it between her paws i did this for three days she started settling all the time even when we had guests over because i want her to settle with distractions i also started working on her settling while other dogs were getting treats as well as working for treats okay so when i lure her like this she kind of opens her mouth and looks a little annoyed and frustrated and is trying to bite the treat out of my hand which is normal it looks like i'm going to give her a treat so instead of holding it so closer i'm going to hold it further away and just click her for following me in a calm manner to get the treat then when she's good at that i'm going to get the treat closer to her because when it's closer it's confusing and frustrating because the dog thinks that you're giving them the treat and then you're playing a keep away game so of course they're going to try and take the treat if you're tantalizing them with it ready great so i'm moving the treats slower good job and now she's really good i'll hold it closer to her face this is one of the first games that i play with all my puppies it's not only great for building your relationship with your new puppy but it's also great for teaching your puppy to want to move with you when out and about and it also builds their motivation to want to work for the treats that you have the game is very simple you move away from your puppy and then you reinforce your puppy's choice for wanting to move in your direction a very simple way to play this is making an enticing noise as you run away from your puppy i like to say like that or clap my hands some puppies are a little bit scared of clapping so you might just want to try the high-pitched voice and if you're a guy and you don't want to make a high-pitched voice or you just can't you can try whistling like that to get your puppy enticed to want to move towards you and then if your puppy has a marker like yes or a click you can click as your puppy is moving towards you or if you don't have a clicker or marker yet you can just simply feed as your puppy gets to you and i suggest holding your hand out further away from your body and low to the ground so the puppy gets used to running to you and not jumping on you as they come towards you as soon as the puppy is eating the treats you're then going to take off running away from your puppy in another direction and then reinforce your puppy for getting to you i suggest keeping these games extremely short like 20 seconds to 30 seconds and i suggest playing the games in your living room and out in your yard first and if you have success with the games then then you can try them on a walk outside the front of your house or in the park like i'm going to show you in the footage with my own puppy now it's really important that you stay safe so you want to have your puppy on a leash and harness or a long line in a harness or in an enclosed area so i'm in an enclosed area with a fence so i'm dropping my puppy's leash while i'm playing this game i find it easier to play this game when you can create more distance from the puppy sometimes if a puppy is not that interested in following you and you only go five feet away that doesn't really entice them to want to keep coming towards you so i suggest investing in a long line so you can get further away further away from your puppy while still staying safe in case your puppy were to run away if you have a puppy that's not that motivated by the food you want to refrain from moving the food towards the puppy and into their space puppies and dogs are just like us and if you're not feeling like eating something and someone is trying to feed you the thing it becomes even more punishing so you can actually make the dog not want the food even more by trying too hard instead playing this keep away game where you're moving away from your puppy you can really teach puppies that aren't that interested in food to suddenly really want what you have i hope you found this video helpful for your training don't forget to like comment and subscribe to channel kikopup you can also become a supporting member of this channel by clicking the join button see you later guys bye the positive interrupter is an attention noise that you can use to get your puppy's attention and to also stop them doing an undesirable behavior this staffy is having his first training session on the positive interrupter or attention noise at first i was clicking the puppy for offering eye contact clicking the exact moment the puppy's pupils met mine and then feeding a treat then i started to make the attention noise and click as the puppy's eyes met mine if the puppy didn't look up i would make another noise to get the puppy's attention so i could click the eye contact and reinforce with the treat it's a good idea to keep training sessions very short with your new puppy this training session was only 30 seconds long good job today's tutorial is on how to teach your puppy his name now my puppy's name is halo but i haven't started calling him that yet i've been calling him pup pups because it took me a long time to choose a name and that's fine so when i get a new puppy i condition papa as an attention noise so that if the puppy is doing something i don't like i can get my puppy's attention and redirect my puppy to some other activity but today i want to teach him his name means look up at me and that i'm gonna ask him to do something in the future step one say your dog's name put down a treat then move away repeat multiple times at first i'm just gonna say halo which is his name and then put a treat down and you saw he had no response to his name halo halo halo good boy halo that's awesome halo so you might start out with this game every time you start conditioning your dog's name step two say the name click or use a verbal marker like good as your puppy makes eye contact the next step is seeing if your puppy will make eye contact with you after you've said his name so i'm going to say halo and he happened to make eye contact with me and i clicked it what to do if your puppy doesn't make eye contact if your puppy doesn't look up at you within two seconds of saying his name you can make an enticing noise to capture him looking up at you or use a kissy noise or an attention noise if you've already trained that if you're having trouble getting your puppy to make eye contact with you i suggest checking out my attention noise video so if i say his name halo and he doesn't look up i can then make my kissy noise oh he's already looking at me you ready halo good mark and reinforce halo cuckoo cuckoo good for some puppies it might be easier for them to make eye contact with you while you're standing up but for other puppies it might be easier for them to make eye contact with you when you're sitting down like this ready halo good halo good job step 3 practice in different situations with your puppy in different locations and positions halo good halo good go get it halo good go get it teaching your dog his name can be especially useful if you have multiple dogs in your household splash free good job good job everyone tug-free good wish free good good job wishy here we go halo good wish kiko splash tug this should be one of the first games you play with your new puppy the game plan one make an attention noise and click as your puppy comes towards you then feed your puppy in front of you two make an attention noise then say your recall and click the puppy for running to you then feed your puppy in front of you click and feed your puppy for continuing to stay with you three say your recall click your puppy for running to you and then feed your puppy in front of you click the moment the puppy is running the fastest when she comes to you have one or more family members or friends sit apart from each other and take turns calling the puppy back and forth first you're going to entice your puppy to run towards you click the moment your puppy's running the fastest and feed in front of you feed random treats for the puppy staying with you before the other person starts to call the puppy back if you only give your puppy one treat for coming to you in this game your puppy could soon learn to just run back and forth getting treats from people and not learn the exercise of coming when called and staying with you you can add your cue when your puppy is reliably running to you if your puppy stops coming to you go back a step make sure to feed your puppy when all four of her feet are on the floor and not on you to not reinforce jumping by using the clicker to mark the behavior of your puppy running towards you you're not only teaching your dog consciously to run towards you but you're also using classical conditioning which is creating an emotional response in the animal by doing this you can condition what looks like a reflexive behavior watch this footage of the puppy's reaction to hearing the cue come after it being paired with food only just a couple of times in this first training session problem solving try different treats we are using boiled chicken a tasty and healthy treat for young puppies if the puppy is reluctant to come run backwards crouch make exciting noises pat your legs or sit sideways try a less distracting location use a long line attached to a harness for safety never attached to a collar it could cause severe neck injuries i'm first gonna warm him up and get the behavior that i want which is him running to me so i'm just gonna back up and as he comes towards me i'm going to i can feed and we went over this last one and then when i get the behavior i want reliably i can start adding the q here so i'm saying bear here and question for coming there here good job bear here and i don't have to feed on the ground but it's a good way of uh getting to be faster than your dog because if you beat them in their mouth they can catch up to you really fast now this is the hard part that we had it's the distraction it's calling them away from something like for example if it was a dead rat or something um you want to be able to call him away so i'm going to put the treats down there and then i'm going to say bear here now if he wasn't if you didn't come with me i could um walk backwards bam here good job and now i'm gonna click him for staying with me so he's not just darting back to the thing that he wanted he's he's genuinely staying with me if it was another dog over there and i want to release him to go play again maybe it's bella that i'm calling him away from i'm gonna say okay go say hi or okay go get it and then he can eat the treats so it's not really a leave it it depends how you want to play the exercise they could never get it or they could get it maybe it's his ball um maybe it's a toy there here awesome and then try again i mean basically by repetition it becomes easier for him there here step one back up and click your dog for running to you step two add a cue like here or come and click as the dog is in motion and feed for the position step three once your dog is reliably coming without distraction add distractions with the dog in a harness on leash put a piece of food a ball or some other type of distraction down out of reach call your dog away from it and click your dog the moment he thinks to turn in your direction at first next you can click the dog as he turns and runs towards you add different types of distractions problem solving if the dog does not turn away from the distraction back up so the dog is further away and try again do not jerk the dog away as this will not be teaching the dog to want to come to you off leash when there are distractions we want to click the dog's choice to choose us over the distraction adding environmental distractions once your dog or puppy is reliable at coming to you in a place of no distraction or the place that you usually train start training in other locations vary the distance of your recall and remember to keep training sessions very short so that your dog doesn't become too tired or too full work on environmental distractions and distractions such as food toys other dogs and people separately before adding the two together always use the highest value of reinforcement for such an important behavior see you next time and don't forget to subscribe for more free training videos so this proofing game that i'm playing with wish you can either play in grass where you put low value treats in the grass or you can use a snuffle mat if you're working indoors or a blanket with little folds and put low value treats so her kibble that she doesn't particularly like it's a little teeny kibble here that i've sprinkled in the mat for her to find um now i'm going to practice calling her away from it so first if you think your dog's not or your puppy is really not going to come you can get your puppy to move away with a treat wish look a high value treat so i've got some really good hot dog here and then practice the recall wish come where she can't reach the mat at first to give her you know 100 success where it's not too hard you can also click your dog choosing to come to you during the game so if your dog thinks on their own to turn away and come to you wow that's amazing okay ready okay go get it right here where's the treats so now i'm gonna let her snuffle for those treats and i have really high value treats so if you can't find a low value treat maybe you can use bits of carrot or something that the dog doesn't really like there we go now i'm going to call her good job i'm not going to let her go back until i give her the release okay go get it awesome good girl good girl i keep dropping treats push good girl okay go sniff wish come yes good girl look whoo awesome [Music] awesome okay go get it go get the treats and the snuggle map right here look right here awesome i'm gonna try it off leash and with distance because i've worked with her quite a quite a lot she knows i'm going to call her awesome good girl and i don't particularly care about sitting i didn't want to release her yet but i'm talking so i don't particularly care if the dog's not sitting when they come to me i'd rather just feed the dog for standing and then if you want to have a sit then feed your your puppy for coming to you and then sit ask them to sit good girl sit good girl but i personally i don't have any you know i'm moving around usually so i don't specifically want my dog to come and sit with me i'd rather she come and just settle or just stand and hang out with me are you ready okay go sniff not you swashers go snoop wish splash me flash down go sniff now i put hot dogs in there and let's see if she can come away from eating the hot dogs so if she couldn't i could put her back on leash so if she doesn't i'm gonna show her what i have click and treat and then release her okay get it wish come awesome okay go get it so i'm actually calling her away from the same treats that i have right now and i'm using my voice and my movement to get her excited about me i have you know a faster rate of reinforcement than this mat because she has to look for it and when she comes to me she gets treat treat treat splash go sniff now i'm gonna try with with another dog competing for treats now if you have a guarding dog or a puppy this is not a good game to play but i figure it will make it harder for her because she might want to stick around to make sure she gets all the treats wish come good girl okay go sniff wish come on oh yeah i'm gonna try from a distance again and i worked on the recall so um it's been i've had her for uh 10 weeks is it yeah 10 weeks so the recall is really strong and highly reinforced if you had just started working on the recall this is not a good exercise because you really want to build the recall to have this extremely high reinforcement history before you start making it difficult push gooseneck wish me go sneeze um i also trained her to you know leave dogs alone while they're eating so it's kind of a little bit she doesn't want to interfere with splash eating so splash you scent get it good girl flash can snuffle over here whoosh what a good girl freaking treat freaking treat multiple treats so she doesn't just run back and then i'm gonna send her okay go smith go up come on get your cheeks good girl now the test is if i can get splash to come to me while she's so distracted because she's like i'm not even training i'm eating treats squash pump yeah and if your other if your puppy comes when you call your adult dog and there's lots of distraction i would feed it okay now i'm gonna sprinkle just treats in the grass running out of treats oh hi if your dog chooses you over eating treats in the grass that's also something you can click and now i have to stop because i've run out of the high value treats and all i have is kibble left so good girl okay go sniff i have a couple left go sid see if i can get both of them look treats what that did good job i knew it was hard now your favorite behavior smashers go sniff go get the treats in the grass go on josh loves getting treats out of the grass going and uh wish likes the frisbee don't you you prefer this huh this video is about solving and managing puppy mouthing and biting as well as teaching the puppy to be calm confident and relaxed when handled because most puppies when you reach for them and pet them excitedly or even just pet them calmly it can make the puppy aroused and also want to mow that your hands or your clothes now puppies are very similar to human toddlers in that they're exploring the world using their mouth now most toddlers use their hands but they also will put things into their mouths and when a puppy sees things they're naturally going to want to try putting that thing into their mouth so if you reach for your puppy and you're touching your puppy the puppy wants to naturally do the same back to you but they're going to be using their mouth so we need to train the puppies that when we reach and touch them it's not a game of mouthing it's simply that we're petting the dog in order to calm them down or just interact with them in a calm manner if your puppy started to bite at your hands like this i suggest getting your puppy's attention and then say oh my goodness look what is that and point out a toy that already exists in the environment so don't get a toy out of a new place like on top of a counter and give your puppy a toy because they could quickly learn they can get your attention by biting you to get access to toys they don't have but i suggest having some cool toys around that you interact with often that the puppy likes and then get your puppy to play with those toys and interact with those toys when he's feeling like checking things out in the environment with his mouth or chewing on things when you first bring your puppy home you want to really create a reinforcement history for playing with his toys right from the start don't just leave the toys out and hope he'll choose those over your socks and shoes or better yet pick up your socks and shoes so your puppy is more likely to spend the day playing with his toys that you want him to play with rather than your stuff or your clothes your hair and your hands so as you can see this pup really enjoys playing with his toys managing and preventing mouthing and biting pet and handle your puppy calmly and gently instead of petting your puppy excitedly play with a toy with your puppy write a list of the times your puppy bites and avoid putting your puppy in those situations unless you plan to train your puppy if your puppy becomes over excited and mouthy you can put him in his pen where he can play with his toys we can teach puppies what to do when being petted handled and groomed by setting up short training sessions you can use a portion of your puppy's breakfast and dinner to work on handling exercises and i suggest working on them daily when you first get your puppy step 1 touch and feed a treat at the same time the reason that you want to feed and touch at the same time is that if you have a mouthy puppy and you just reach for your puppy your puppy might either lick or bite at your hand as you're reaching for your puppy or if you have a timid puppy you reach for your puppy and your puppy might back away and that's not the first thing you want your puppy to do when you reach for them in a training session so i suggest starting out every training session by feeding and touching at the same time so if you're going to be touching your puppy's feet you touch and feed at the same time practice touching the top of the head and you're doing this all calmly so the puppy isn't finding it overwhelming at first so now i'm touching on the back of his shoulders like this and feeding and then once you've done that and your puppy is seeming pretty contented to get his treat while you touch him at the same time you can move on to the next step which is making the petting the predictor of food because at the first step you're simply teaching him what's going to happen to him while he's not doing anything and then the second step is teaching him that the actual petting is what predicts that the food is going to come step 2 touch your puppy say good or click and then move to feed a treat so i'm gonna touch him say good and then give him a treat good good good once your puppy is calm and relaxed with you placing your hand on your puppy you can also practice stroking gestures it's right there good good step three add duration to the handling and teach the puppy to ignore the treats the third step you might not actually get to in the first few training sessions because it requires a couple of other skills to be taught to the puppy one either that the puppy can look away from treats that you're holding like that good or that your puppy can offer you eye contact or at least look up at you when you make a kissy noise or an attention noise good like that and i did not know that he would do all that so perfectly you're so clever okay so after doing step two where you reach mark good and then feed you can start to wait until your puppy offers you eye contact or doesn't look at the treats because you don't want your puppy to only think that handling is okay if he's looking at food because when the food becomes out of the picture then suddenly you might get the mouthing and biting or over excitement with handling again good so you reach touch your puppy calmly and wait for your puppy to stop looking at the food or look up at your eyes and if that doesn't happen within two to three seconds you can make your attention noise or say your puppy's name if that's his cue to look at you good now when i make my attention noise and my puppy doesn't look i make a little blowing noise like a breathing noise like that good and then i mark it and then go to feed a treat you want to make sure when you mark your puppy for calm behaviors like handling that you don't race to get that treat into the picture because what you can create is a puppy that's getting excited about the treat coming so you want to mark pause and then feed the treat step 4 keep changing the picture practice these handling exercises while the puppy is sitting standing laying down as well as while you're standing above the puppy or to the side of the puppy it's really important that during this training you handle your puppy calmly however you should do some training sessions where you simulate what other people might do to your puppy before you can tell the person that that's not an appropriate way to pet a puppy good if your puppy opens his mouth gets excited leans away or backs away go back to step one where you touch and feed at the same time if your puppy is still too excited then stop training and wait until another time to train when he is calm here you can see my puppy ducks when i try to touch him on the head so i go back to step one of touching and feeding at the same time if you have a puppy that leans away or backs away from you when you try to touch him you can play this game as the first step where you move away from your puppy and to reach the treat the puppy's face rubs against your hand to get the treat in your hand so you can hold your hand under his chin as he reaches for the treat or have your hand above his head then you can turn it into a petting gesture and start to pet him before you give him the treat good today i'm going to be talking about how to teach your puppy not to mouth or bite at your clothing accessories or your hair good puppy what i've already worked on with this pup i've only had him a few days is working on a calm settle for food which he's doing right now so i can talk to you now naturally when i train dogs i never want to let them rehearse the undesirable behavior so in my videos you'll never see the dogs doing the things that they're not supposed to do i only show you the small approximations of how to train the dog what you do want them to do but in this case because i get a lot of requests of people saying hey how come you're never using untrained dogs it's because when you train with positive reinforcement it always looks like the dog is already trained because you're breaking the steps up small enough that the dog can succeed every step of the way so this puppy has never had any training with mouthing and biting and i will show you that my puppy does mouth and bite at clothing when it moves around but it's not very good training to do this on this rare occasion i will show the dog rehearsing the undesirable behavior this is because the behavior of tugging is one i do want for when playing with tug toys in the future also showing this specific undesirable behavior is not stressful for this dog seeing what the dog does in a situation before training actually makes the dog more likely to do those behaviors in the future instead a smarter training plan is training in small easily achievable steps where the dog doesn't even have a thought to do the undesirable behavior again as you can see this is a normal puppy puppies naturally want to grab at anything that moves fast or is dangling like a dress or your hair or some jewelry or this dishcloth or a sweater sleeve as you're putting it on so this is a normal puppy but you'll see during the training the puppy is not going to be doing this type of behavior the point of this exercise is to teach the puppy that when things are dangling around it means to ignore them and you can still play tug with your dog but it's really important to put that on a verbal cue like get it and always say get it before you offer your dog a toy to tug on so they don't get the wrong idea that anything that's dangling in their face is fair game to be tugged on in this exercise you can either use a clicker or a verbal marker so you can either click and then feed a treat or i have a nice calm marker good that means i'm going to slowly deliver the treat to the puppy like that the game is pretty simple you start off with distractions that are very easy for the puppy to ignore so with this sweater for example if the puppy's over here settling or you could have your puppy on a leash and you could have a helper the helper's just going to show the sweater and move it slowly and as you move it you mark and then feed a treat so the puppy is associating that when the sweater moves and they stay still they get a click and a treat and basically you're training the puppy to do nothing when they see this happen good job when your puppy is having success you can start to make things more exciting so i'm going to move the sweater past the puppy like this good good job i'm gonna dangle my sleeve good job good boy once your puppy has mastered settling with the distractions you can now practice when you and your puppy are standing up and moving which is harder for most puppies so you'll need to go back to marking the moment the distraction happens at first to set your puppy up for success good good good okay good job good good good boy good job when your puppy looks calm and can easily ignore the distraction you can increase how long you make the distraction happen before you mark you can also increase the difficulty of the distraction most puppies find fast erratic movement harder to resist than slow predictable movement good good if you have a puppy that's extremely excited about grabbing moving things you can feed the treat as you move the thing at first so i'm moving this thing and feeding the puppy like that good job and now i'm going to do the leash first and then mark and feed good good good good if your puppy were to grab onto whatever it is that you're working with put a high value treat to your dog's nose and then start over by making it much less arousing good also i have a video on how to train the queue drop so that you can teach your puppy to let go of things that they start to pick up or they're tugging on you can also use a kissy noise or the recall if you see your puppy going over to someone else to pull on their shoelaces or to get their clothing you can make your kissy noise attention noise or call your puppy to you so that your puppy isn't practicing that behavior when you see your puppy get interested in something like someone's shuffling feet or shoelaces interrupt your puppy and redirect him to something you do want him to be doing like playing with his toys then make a mental note to work on that specific distraction in a training session good job here's a list of the steps step one mark as the distraction happens step two mark after the distraction begins step three add more time before you mark step four add difficulty and variety to the training for the most successful training you want to work on the distractions before the puppy is exposed to them in real life for example having your kids move in front of your puppy for the first time in a training session and reinforcing your puppy for remaining calm as it happens beginning first by having the kids simply walking past your puppy i'm just going to work on the behavior of a default leave it from the hand because as you can see what this dog is doing he thinks i might give him the treat because i'm holding treats which is a normal um thought for a dog but actually i'm going to click and reinforce the times when he's not trying to get the treat on his own so the absence of trying to get the treat gets the treat click and reinforce your dog for backing away so you can practice no mugging from your hand as well as your bait bag and that's going to save you a lot of time down the road when you're training and your dog suddenly thinks oh i think i shall take that treat good job click your dog for staying away from the treats once you click and reinforce your dog for backing away click and reinforce your dog for staying back add eye contact or click your dog for looking in a different direction than at the treats once you've reinforced your dog for backing away from the treats you can now ask for eye contact or looking away from the treats so anytime the dog looks at your eyes or looks away from the treats in your hand or bait bag you can click and reinforce here you can see i'm helping the dog out by making a noise with my mouth to get the dog to look at my face so i can click and reinforce hold out two fingers and click as your dog goes to sniff your two fingers dogs will naturally want to sniff your hand if you outreach it towards them make sure you're clicking the precise moment that the dog's nose is touching your two fingers because if you're too quick or you're too slow with the click you're actually clicking your dog for not touching your fingers so make sure that your timing is precise you also want to make a very clear hand gesture so your dog is learning to only touch your hand when it's in the certain gesture and not all the time this is rylo a nine week old puppy's first clicker training lesson and you can see on this next touch that he gets so excited he does a little spin when he figures out that touching the hand means that he'll get a treat keep raising criteria try the hand gesture in different positions and from different distances away from your dog if your dog's succeeding keep making it harder and if your dog's failing make it easier if you're having trouble trying to get your dog to touch your hand try moving your hand away from your dog or hiding your hand and then representing it again you can also try getting up and walking away and clicking as your dog just comes towards you if your dog is licking or nipping at your fingers click just before they reach your fingers you want to add the verbal cue when your dog is reliably touching your fingers every time you hold them out to do this you simply say the word touch before you reach out your hand touch good job okay don't touch it touch is a wonderful behavior for many reasons one it's a great exercise for shy dogs to build confidence with interacting with people and being handled it's also a great way to teach your dog to come here's a game you can play after you add the verbal cue all you have to do is throw the treat away from you after the dog's touched your hand and you've clicked to reset your dog to come running towards you from different directions make sure to do this exercise on carpet or flat ground if your dog is having trouble finding the treats in the grass here's another game you can play can your dog touch your fingers when you hold them on the ground can your dog touch your fingers when you hold your fingers slightly above their head can your dog touch your fingers when you hold them in any location here's another great game to play can your dog leave the treats in your hand to touch your fingers [Music] the q-touch is a great tool for training new behaviors and tricks you can teach your dog to follow your hand as a lure when you're showing him the touch signal to do this show your dog your touch signal and move your hands slightly click for your dog following your hand for one second then increase criteria so your dog follows your fingers for longer and longer periods of time step one toss a treat in the bed so the first step is throwing a treat into the bed and clicking your puppy for going to eat the treat as they as you click you want to then feed the treats in the bed so the bed is this huge reinforcement so good job then you can give a release cue like free and click your puppy for coming away from the bed ready good boy awesome jump step 2 pretend to throw a treat so after repeating this step of throwing a treat in and cooking your puppy for going to eat it you can then go on to the next step which is pretending to throw a treat in and once you pretend to throw a treating you click your puppy for going towards the bed or into the bed and then they still get the treat so you click steps towards it or a step into the bed and then throw the treat job so here you can see he's not putting his feet in the bed so i might just wait and see if he might go to sniff inside the bed and by mistake put his foot in the bed then i can feed multiple treats for being on the bed it's easier if you have a bigger bed if you have a very small bed that they have to curl up in they might be less successful with this exercise so the bigger the target zone the easier the exercise is right okay so if your fake treat isn't working anymore simply go back to the step of throwing the treat into the bed good boy step three wait and see if the dog thinks to go to the bed so after playing this game a couple of times you can see if your dog might think to go in the bed on their own so just a step towards the bed equals a click and a treat ready good boy i'm going to feed him the treat in the bed ready step four add a cue now i'm pretty sure this time that he's going to go right into the bed so that's when you add your cue when you know your puppy is going to head on over there and go in their bed so you must freak i wasn't quite sure who might do it so i didn't say the cue this time i'm gonna say go in your bed good boy awesome so um some puppies some dogs might not think to lay down when they go in their bed so you can actually once they've gone in there lure them into the down position with the treat and give them the treat as an added step so they've gone in their bed and then you lower them into the down position move your hand away quick and give them the truth and then keep reinforcing them for staying in the down position step five proof the behavior now you can practice proofing it from different parts of the room ready go in your bed good boy free so in your bed awesome job and you don't always want to give them a treat as soon as they get in the bed once they've learned it because then if you don't then they get frustrated and say hey where's my treat so to proof the stay in the bed while other things are happening you need to do a whole bunch of different distractions and if your puppy gets out of the bed if they don't quickly run back in you can simply quickly lure them back to the bed into the down position and then make the distraction easier so kiko bite your tail yes so go in your bed i'm simply going to take a step away from him yes yes yes yes almost free yes you also want to remember to mark the the release queue so if your puppy gets up out of the bed you want to say yes and feed them a treat if your puppy doesn't get up encourage them to get up so you say the release cue free and if your puppy doesn't get up you encourage them yes good boy step six combine the behavior with a settle so the next step to this is teaching the puppy to settle in the bed and i have a tutorial on how to teach the saddle but basically you have the bed next to you and you work on a settle and you can see the link to the video if you look down in the description so basically you wait until your puppies not thinking about the food and then you reinforce them it makes it easier to teach your puppy to go in his crate or pen and relax or lay down if you've already worked on a saddle with your puppy like my puppy's doing here or if you've also worked on teaching your puppy to go to his bed and relax on his bed now i'm going to put the bed inside the pen that he hasn't worked with yet now i've worked with a crate with him before but this is a new pen that we've just got and i want to teach him that it's the same concept so putting the bed in there really helps step one throw a treat into the crate the first step is throwing a treat into the pen clicking and reinforcing your puppy for going into the pen or crate and then continuing to click and reinforce your puppy for staying in there you might have to click quite quickly or say yes quite quickly and throw a treat in there to keep your puppy in there if your puppy thinks to come out just let him and if you see that your puppy doesn't want to go into the crate or pen to get the treat that means he has some concern about it so one thing you can do is take the top off the crate if it's one of those plastic crates or take the top of the pen or simply work on the bed more before putting the bed into the crate because that will give your puppy more confidence about going into the small space that he's unsure about what you don't want to do is block your puppy from coming out because that can teach the puppy that once he's in there he might get trapped by you and it might make him more concerned about going in so just let your puppy come out and let him build his confidence on his own about going in are you ready puppy free good job mark can feed your puppy for staying in the pen for 15 to 30 seconds and then use a release queue like free or release to mean they can come out so i'm going to say free and if he doesn't think to come out i could lure him out or make it a little enticing noise to get him to come out and then i'm gonna mark and feed him a treat for listening to come out of his pen step two pretend to throw a treat into the crate after repeating step one multiple times you can then pretend to throw a treat into the crate and as the puppy goes in to look for the treat mark and then give him multiple treats clicks and treats for staying in the crate good job if your puppy doesn't think to lay down you can lure your puppy into the down position free get it by just holding a treat down like this or working on the down behavior before you add them together the first few times that you pretend to throw a treat into the crate on the next time that you repeat the behavior i suggest actually throwing a treat because puppies are extremely smart and they'll quickly figure out that you didn't actually throw a treat in so they won't go in as you pretend to throw the treat so if that happens you can do other techniques like putting the treat in through the back of the crate or dropping the treat in from the top good job halo free good job if at any time your puppy offers going into the crate on his own mark it and reinforce it because it's a wonderful behavior for a puppy to offer if you're training something else where maybe you're teaching your dog to pot you if they offer that without you asking then it's a big deal but if it's something calm and wonderful like going into the crate and laying down i would just mark and reinforce the puppy offering without even being asked step three turn the throwing gesture into a hand signal the next step is turning the throwing gesture into a pointing gesture are you ready so i'm going to pretend like i'm throwing but i have a pointing finger and i'm going to click and reinforce him for going in there good job once your puppy is reliably responding to the pointing gesture you can add your verbal cue so you can say go in your crates or go to bed or whatever it is just before you then point at the crate are you ready so i'm gonna say go in your crate and then i'm gonna point click and reinforce step four add a verbal cue it's not necessary to phase out the hand signal but if you wanted to do that you can say go in your crate and click and reinforce your puppy for going in without doing the hand signal if at any point your puppy doesn't go in when you say go in your crate you can revert back to pointing to mean go in the crate good job teach the puppy the door isn't the cue to come out it's really important to teach your puppy to have the door opened and closed in training sessions rather than just seeing what might happen so i suggest closing the door clicking and reinforcing or you can even reinforce through the roof so that the puppy learns that when the door is closed you can still have access inside like that good job and then opening the door and marking and reinforcing the puppy for staying down so you might want to feed the treats low like this so that the puppy stays in the down position while in there rather than thinking to pop up when the door opens [Music] by teaching the puppy that the door isn't the signal to come out but your release cue halo free then you have a puppy that when you open the door they're not struggling to get out of the door as you're opening it which can end in some frustration behaviors hey pupsy in this tutorial i'm going to teach you how to teach a really important safety behavior to your puppy or your adult dog basically when you reach for a dog to grab their collar or grab their harness a lot of dogs find that really intimidating and scary so we can actually train them to enjoy finding having their color grabbed or their harness grabbed a really reinforcing experience so that in an emergency if you need to catch your dog while he's loose and frightened and maybe hurt or if a neighbor or a stranger is going to catch a dog they're not going to find it this strange intimidating experience to suddenly be grabbed a lot of dogs don't like having their color grabbed it either makes them overexcited mouthy or makes them want to scuttle away by repeating this exercise over and over again you will condition a new emotional response in your dog to love having his collar grabbed step one reach say yes then feed so the first step is simply reaching towards the puppy or the dog and marking with a verbal marker like the word yes so i'm gonna reach yes and then feed the treat yes good boy and i can do it from standing up too yes if you have a very shy dog or puppy you can stand to the side of the puppy and reach from the side as at first so they're not feeling intimidated by you yes yes if your puppy's doing great you can start reaching from the top and from the front yes yes yes step two touch the color say yes then feed the next step is touching the puppy's collar yes so as you touch the collar say yes and then move to give a treat if you do it both at the same time the puppy could not might not be understanding that it's the touching of the collar that's meaning the treat is coming but just your hand moving so you don't want to teach your puppy to love your hand weaving to give him a treat you want to teach him that it's all about the color yes that means the treat is coming if your puppy is really mouthy or bitey and you can't even get your hand near their collar without them biting you then you can first start out this game by feeding and then touching what you will be doing is showing your dog what you're about to do without giving them a chance to get mouthy or frightened when your dog becomes comfortable with this exercise then move on to reaching first and grabbing before saying yes and then feeding yes yes try it in all different types of scenarios so lumos has been laying down while i reach to touch his collar and i've been reaching with my left hand and doing the same gesture change it up so now i'm going to move over here yes and grab him with my right hand yes good boy yes awesome this is teaching your dog to trust you so even if you think your dog might be okay with having his collar grabbed you want him to really love it and enjoy it and really trust you that when you're grabbing his collar it's all about your connection with him and you and it's got nothing to do with you trying to intimidate your dog hey splash step 3 teach your puppy to feel comfortable being led by the collar another thing you can teach your dog is to be led by their collar so even though i don't use a collar to walk my dog on because i'm worried about it damaging their neck at some point in their life they might actually have their collar grabbed and had have someone lead them by their collar say if they got loose so it's a really important safety behavior so i'm going to teach that to lumos right now i'm going to grab his collar and then i'm going to put a little bit of pressure on it towards me yes and i'm going to mark the moment that he moves towards me if your puppy is really scared of you touching their collar you can simply pull on it a little bit yes and say yes as they feel a little bit of pressure on their neck yes good boy yes awesome he's doing too good yes so say for example i don't know he's really nervous or frightened he's loose he doesn't have his harness on in the street i need to get him i'm going to get his collar yes and lead him away without him making him more scared if your dog looks nervous or unhappy when you pull forwards on his collar you can use food to lure him forwards and teach him what you want him to do first then when he is comfortable you can practice without the food yes if your puppy looks fearful backs away or becomes mouthy go back a step to either just reaching or feeding and touching at the same time if you have an aggressive dog a dog that has bitten or a dog that does not like being touched get help from a professional trainer first in this tutorial i'm going to show you how i do a puppy restraint now it's very important that you don't do this with an adult dog especially a dog that's scared or aggressive because you could go too fast too quickly and there is the potential for scaring the dog or making the dog bite you so it's really important to teach the puppy to be restrained because as an adult if the dog has to go to the vet and needs to be restrained for shots or has an injury and you know you have to restrain your dog while they're getting medical care it's really important that the dog finds it calm and relaxing rather than very scary in the moment that he needs to be restrained so the way that i like to teach this behavior is in small steps small successful steps so you're not scaring the puppy anytime along the way step one build calm confidence when touched on different parts of the body first you're just working on touching your puppy yeah and using a calm marker and calm cheek delivery so what do i mean by that well you're bringing the treats to the puppy very slowly and you want to also start training when the puppy is sleepy and not very excited yeah so you touch the puppy yeah and then you give the puppy a treat awesome yep good job okay so you want to do it when your puppy's laying down but also standing up because what can happen is if they're standing up and you reach and try to touch your puppy and they back away get it yep and you know you're going too far too quickly make the game easier if your puppy gets over excited mouths your hand or backs away if you have a shy puppy check out my video handling shyness and if you have a mouthy puppy check out my video on how to stop your puppy mouthing and biting move on to step two once your puppy is comfortable with being touched step two restrain and reinforce i like to lure the puppy between my legs and then put my hand against the puppy's chest mark and feed this way if your puppy doesn't like your hand on his chest he can back up once he's successful you can sit down and restrain your puppy in the beginning you want to use a higher rates of reinforcement so you mark and feed immediately as you begin restraining your puppy and every few seconds don't mark if your puppy starts whining or struggling instead walk away from your puppy and see if your puppy wants to join you then work on the exercise in step one step three increase duration and use calm massage increase the amount of time between when you mark and feed you can use calm massage as well as breathing deeply and sighing to help calm your puppy down step four vary how you restrain the puppy you want to vary the restraints so restrain your dog in a sit restrain your dog while standing or staring your dog while you're cradling him and see if you can restrain your dog upside down most dogs hate being upside down but it's necessary for them to be stranded upside down in certain circumstances at the back for example and for grooming it's really nice if your dog is comfortable upside down so you can see what's going on on the underside of them i'm going to lift her up yep and mark as i lift and then feed now if she finds it very aversive i can simply start just squeezing her yep while her feet are still on the ground yep yep [Music] yep good job so good yep yep good job yep yep good job so when i laid her like this she didn't like it at all i'm just gonna let her get up if at any point your puppy panics or gets over excited i suggest taking it back a step to just touching yep and feeding so your dog is confident and happy to have your hands on him step five add once your puppy is really relaxed and calm with being restrained when there are no distractions you can start to add distractions so for example if you were in the park and you were holding your puppy and you saw a squirrel or another dog you might want to escape you and run towards the dog and that would make him frustrated so i'm going to put a little distraction of treats down here yep and then i'm going to say yep and feed my dog for understanding the concept of you can't get those treats right now because i'm holding you now if your puppy struggles and squirms you can put the treats further away or use a distraction that's less exciting so maybe there's some kibble far away and you're feeding your dog hot dogs or cheese yup for having the impulse control to not just squirm to go and get what he wants so this is a great exercise for dogs that are impulsive and they can't control their impulses idea is that you want your dog to understand that the best place to be is here being restrained with you yep ready okay and then you can release your dog to go and get the treats go get him come on yeah right there here's a quick way to teach your young puppy to play fetch now this is a very useful skill to teach a young puppy because if they steal your socks or something like that for example you can get your puppy to fetch it to you and drop it first you get your puppy interested in the toy then you throw it and when you see your puppy has the toy in their mouth you make a kissy noise or go and go the other way and most young puppies will forget to let go of the toy when they go towards you so they'll carry the toy towards you and if you have two toys you can then play with the puppy with the other toy wait until the puppy has the toy in his mouth before making enticing noises or moving away from your puppy to entice him to move towards you when your puppy gets to you you can gently play tug with your puppy and then drop the toy and show your puppy the other toy and move it around until your puppy drops the toy he has in his mouth you might want to use a bigger or longer toy than i'm using here if you think your puppy might go for your hands while you're jiggling the toy around good job yeah yeah yeah yeah oh boy puppies shouldn't really play fetch until they are adults and their growth plates have closed because of the jolting movement that happens when the dog gets to the toy fetch also needs to be limited in adult dogs to prevent injury that said i like to train fetch to young puppies as one of the first behaviors that they learn while they still have the tendency to want to hold on to the toy in their mouth when they're called i suggest throwing the toy three to five times to teach the concept in a couple of training sessions and then when the puppy is great at fetching you can then play games that don't involve jumping or jolting movements for example teaching the puppy to put his toys away or having the puppy chase you with a toy in his mouth to then play tug with you good job you got it you got it professional dog trainers and performers who have injury prevention and the health of their dog in mind always choose to train and perform and play with their dogs on a non-slip surface this is because if you work on a slippery surface it's like when you're on ice and you slip a little bit that happens to dogs and it's really hard to avoid so the best solution is yes train your dog to be confident when they walk on slippery surfaces but when you play and train with your dogs train and play on a non-slip surface like a carpet or grass outside some carpets and mats are actually slippery so you need to check and make sure you don't just have a carpet that's slippery you want to make sure your dog's not slipping when they're moving around it's also really important with adult dogs when you're working on jumping and jolting movements like agility and stuff like that you want to be working on a padded surface like some dog training arenas have a padded mat that the dogs perform and train on or grass is the best surface for doing jumping movements i don't suggest having your dog jumping in the house high on a carpet like this because there's just not enough padding conversely sand is also not a good thing to perform jumping and jolting movements because it's too giving so i suggest investing in a training surface for your puppy or adult dog if you're not going to be doing jumping tricks and stuff like that and working on stuff inside i like to have an area rug like this for my puppy training and yes it's harder to clean with a puppy but you can get a cheap one and then just throw it away and get another one it's also really important for my puppy here because he likes to play a lot in the evening and this is the print of space for him to play in and he won't go and venture onto the hardwood floor to play with his toys he sticks to the carpet because it's non-slip and that's really going to help him grow properly and not get any early injuries from slipping today i'm going to show you how to train the cue drop now if your dog's not interested in toys i have another video on how to train drop using your dog's chew stick and i'll link that in the description below this is a very simple technique for training drop and i find it highly effective first you have to get the dog interested in playing with the toy so this might take a little bit of time if you have treats out and your dog thinks that he's going to get treats so you might want to wave the toy around you might spend a few minutes getting your dog invested in that toy once your dog's invested in tugging on the toy hold a treat to your dog's nose and when your dog lets go give them the treat then you want to cue your dog to get the toy so you can say get it or whatever you want but be careful because your dog might get your hands so you might want to use a bigger toy than i'm using here if you have a dog that might go for your hand instead of the toy are you ready get it so you say get it first and then move the toy around you want to make sure your dog's really invested in tugging on that toy but not too excited that he might be not wanting to let go of the toy for the treat if your dog doesn't let go of the toy for the treat you need to use a lower value toy or a higher value treat to play the game and maybe be less exciting about tugging on the toy so once you've played the game where you put the treat up towards your dog's nose and he drops the frisbee or the toy reliably then you can start to add your cue so you're just going to say your cue drop and then put the treat to your dog's nose ready get it it might take a couple of training sessions to get to the next step but the next step is saying drop good marking and then moving your hand to feed the treat drop you can mark and feed multiple times before cueing get it to teach your dog to wait for the cue you can also add eye contact if your dog knows to look at you good get it good boy drop good good boy good ready good this video is an exercise to play with young puppies to prevent toy guarding now i'm going to continue to make videos of different exercises to prevent resource guarding in young puppies these exercises are not meant as a plan for a puppy with severe fear issues and severe resource guarding and these are not exercises to play with adult dogs that have severe resource guarding issues because what's needed for these two different topics uh severe resource guarding and puppies and adult dogs is a personal plan for that specific dog rather than just following the video because if you go too fast too quickly you could actually do more damage than good so what you need to do is find a professional dog trainer who uses only positive reinforcement and counter conditioning to solve the problem and get advice to let them help you through the problem toy guarding prevention exercise for puppies in this footage this nine week old puppy is not very happy about having a hand reach towards the toy that he's playing with without any previous training step 1 give your puppy a low value toy if your puppy is not interested in the toy you can play with your puppy to get him interested in the toy again step two walk towards your puppy drop a high value treat next to him and walk away the point of this simple exercise is to use counter conditioning to change the puppy's emotional response to an approaching human when he's playing with his toy practice approaching and dropping treats from different angles what you should be seeing after a couple of repetitions is that your puppy happily drops the toy and looks at you expectantly when you walk towards him when he's playing with a toy if this isn't happening here are some things you can try use a higher value treat like real meat or cheese use a lower value toy or something that isn't even a toy toss the treats towards the puppy from a distance at first practice this step of approaching and dropping a treat in multiple training sessions using different toys first starting with low value toys and then moving to the toys your puppy likes the best step 3 reach towards the toy say yes as you reach then feed a treat step 4 reach and touch the toy say yes as you touch it then feed a treat step 5 say yes as you pick up the toy then feed a treat and then give the toy back yes here's footage of before the training session slowed down as a hand reaches towards the puppy the puppy gets very tense after the first training session of just a couple of minutes you can see this puppy's behavior has changed drastically in my opinion this exercise is a great way to prevent behavioral problems down the line as well as a great trust building exercise something pretty amazing happened at the end of this specific training session lumos the border collie puppy who usually wanted to play keep away with a ball fetched the ball to the handler for the very first time great behaviors to teach your new puppy to help prevent guarding issues are drop it leave it eye contact and bring it some dogs have a tendency to guard and others don't if you have a puppy with a tendency to guard remember that it can be more likely to happen when the dog is in a new situation or stressed a dog with guarding issues needs to have a management and prevention program in place to prevent guarding in the future seek professional help if needed a great book on guarding is mine by jean donaldson this exercise is not meant for puppies with resource guarding issues or adult dogs who guard step 1 hold a low-value chew for your puppy to chew present a high-value treat to the puppy then give the chew back yes step two if your puppy is reliably dropping the chew for the food you can say drop before you move to give your puppy a treat drop get it drop step 3 ask your puppy to drop the chew say yes good boy or click as he drops it then feed a treat drop yes if your puppy doesn't drop the chew after you say the queue either make an attention noise or simply put the food on his nose if he still won't drop it it means that you need to use higher value treats and a less valuable chew yes you must drop and then present the treat if your puppy loses interest in the chew play with the chew to make it more exciting [Music] drop good boy step four when your puppy starts spitting out the chew when you say drop you can try this exercise with your puppy holding the chew on his own yes yes it's important to build the drop behavior to be very strong using low value choose first before continuing to higher value choose leo drop good job awesome if you need to take a chew away from your puppy say for example if the chew got too short ask your puppy to drop the chew drop a handful of treats away from the chew and then hold your puppy's harness or color as you reach to pick the chew up so that the puppy doesn't lunge forwards and go for the chew again after finishing the treats you can practice the scenario in a training session and then give the chew back to your puppy so he doesn't think that every time that you drop treats means that you'll take his chew away did you guys want to get a chew hmm this video is on the topic of separation training for young puppies and adult dogs now the way that i like to approach separation training is teaching the dog what i do want him to do when being left alone and leave very little room for error or variation of their behavior so the way that i'm going to approach it is to teach the dog to think to go and settle and take a nap in his bed you can also along with this training teach your dog to play with toys on his own and chew on bones on his own and then in the pen that you leave your dog you can leave bones and shoes so they can have a choice of whether they want to take a nap or play with their toys but with the initial training i like to focus on teaching the dog that when he's having time separated from you it's time to relax and take a nap this training plan of teaching the dog exactly what you do want him to do leaves little room for error and will make the dog less likely to vocalize use his bed as a chew toy learn to put his feet up or try to dig and bite at the enclosure all of these are natural behaviors a dog might offer without any training when being put behind a barrier oftentimes trainers will simply put a dog in a pen and suggest ignoring the behaviors you dislike however this can cause an extinction burst where the dog can become frustrated the behaviors can become more intense and the dog's behavior and emotions can begin to vary this is not the best plan to teach a dog to become and enjoy being left alone the best plan is reinforcing the behaviors you do want your dog to do step one reinforce a settle and calmness around food by reinforcing a settle and calmness around food first it will make it easier for the dog to be calm and relaxed during the separation training it will make it easier to add duration as well as your movement away from the dog without prior training the dog might be excited confused or frustrated by receiving a piece of food from someone who then walks off with the food while he's behind a barrier to train the subtle and calmness around food wear your treat bag around the house or have treats in jars in different rooms and when you see your dog relax and settle on the floor not thinking about the food calmly walk over and drop a treat between your dog's paws or use a calm marker like good and then deliver the treat slowly to the dog it might take a couple of days before your dog can truly relax around the food on the counters and the food in your bait bag but if your dog is having trouble with this you can use low value treats at first to do this training you want to get to the point where you can drop a treat for your dog between his paws and move away and your dog doesn't think to pop up and follow you you also want to make sure that your dog looks relaxed that his muscles are relaxed and that he has a soft expression on his face step two teach the dog to go to his bed and go in his crate by teaching and reinforcing your dog for going to his bed this will make the bed a visual cue for the dog to move toward and relax on when left alone in the future you can work on teaching the dog to go to his bed and go in his crate as you work on step one by practicing them at different times during the day check out the written description below for full tutorials on how to teach your dog to go to his bed as well as how to teach your dog to go in his crate i suggest first working on teaching your dog to go to his bed and then putting the bed inside the crate to create clarity i suggest having a cue to tell your dog to go into the crate as well as a cue to tell your dog when it's time to come out of the crate all done oh boy step 3 add duration while next to the pen or crate now you can practice the subtle in the bed while inside the pen or crate if you have a pen like this one you can sit in the pen with your dog if you have a dog that you think might whine if you're on the outside of the pen and work on the duration of the subtle in the bed while in the pen now you can use a book or a phone to entertain yourself and when you see your dog looking relaxed and all sleepy you can mark by saying good and then reinforce with the treat or simply calmly move and feed your dog a treat and the slower you move your hand the calmer he's going to be rather than if i say good here you go boy yeah good job nice saddle good job sorry halo you can practice this exercise while in the living room watching tv or working on your computer if you have a puppy that whines or barks or panics when you walk away from them while they're in a pen i suggest setting up the pen and sitting next to the pen just out of reach so they can't bite you or mouth at your clothing through the pen and then when you see your puppy settle you can reinforce your puppy by either slowly dropping a treat between their paws or dropping it from above but it's a lot calmer if you go very slowly like that step four add movement away from the enclosure by reinforcing the dog for relaxing behind the barrier when you move around the room it will help teach him the concept of relaxing when something stimulating is going on that he can't reach this is a great exercise for all dogs especially those that can get easily aroused or frustrated when they cannot reach what they want to interact with this step will also help teach a dog to relax when you walk out a door and he cannot come with you at first move slowly and calmly while near the pen or crates and mark and reinforce your dog for relaxing on his bed you can use a clicker for this exercise if your dog remains calm when hearing the clicker but if it excites your dog i suggest using a calm marker word like good before then moving slowly to drop a treat between your dog's paws you can practice moving around the room sitting on different pieces of furniture talking to family members interacting with different objects in the room and then returning to reinforce your dog every once in a while you can go and stand next to the crate and release your dog calmly from the crate i don't suggest releasing your dog from the crates when you're at a distance and that you always release your dog from the crate when you're standing right next to it in a very neutral boring manner what to do if your dog gets up or starts to do a behavior that you don't want him to i suggest that if you're doing a training session and your dog gets up and puts his paws up on the barrier or starts whining and barking i don't suggest that you should assume that if you ignore the dog that they'll stop doing it and think to relax and be calm in their pen instead i would quickly interrupt that behavior and then lower criteria so that it's easier for the dog and that the dog doesn't start to think to start offering those behaviors when he doesn't know what to do another problem with ignoring unwanted behavior and then reinforcing the behavior you do want is that you can sometimes create a behavior chain where the dog first offers the behavior you don't like before they offer the behavior that you do want if your dog gets up to follow you and he doesn't yet know to offer the behavior of going back in the crate you can lure your dog into the down position and then drastically reduce criteria so if you took 20 steps away from your dog and that made him get up just take a couple of steps away from your dog and reinforce your dog to get him back to the point where he's feeling comfortable and relaxed being in the crate while you move away another technique you can use if the dog gets out of the crate to follow you is to stand or sit next to the crate and see if the dog offers going back inside the crate to begin the training game again once your dog is successful with the door open you can practice with the door closed if at any point the dog gets up or looks worried and wants to come out of the crate or pen you can either open the door calmly or open the door and go and sit in the pen with the dog so that he can calm down and realize that he's not trapped inside the pen to make it easier for the dog when you're first working on the noises of the door opening and closing you can be in the pen with your dog or have your dog on the outside of the pen so the dog doesn't suddenly feel trapped when he's seeing the door open and close for the first few times so every time the door makes a noise you can say good and then go to feed your dog a treat good step five alone time when you start leaving your dog unattended it's important to use a safe setup for your dog the setup i have here could be extremely unsafe for some dogs that might think that they could climb over the top or push the pen around the room and perhaps chew on power cords or pull your curtains down so you want to make sure it's a safe pen and for some dogs it might need to be much taller or that it has a lid and a base so that the dog can't get out and that perhaps you have an extra security where you you lock it with a carabiner or a clip also you might want to choose a floor like getting some linoleum from a hardware store to put down underneath the pen in case the dog goes to the bathroom and your floor could easily be ruined by that if you just got a new puppy or dog who is already comfortable with being left alone you can immediately start leaving your dog for short periods even when you are still working on the different steps in this tutorial anytime you see your dog settle down for a nap you can encourage your dog to go in his pen then you can sit with him until he falls asleep then when you hear your dog wake up and start to move around you can calmly let the dog out of the pen if you have a dog with separation anxiety or you're not sure whether he'll panic when he wakes up you can leave the door to the pen open to transition to leaving your dog in the whole house first leave the dog in a pen and when he has stopped chewing on inappropriate things and doing undesirable behaviors when you're home watching him you can then transition to a room and then to the whole house when you change the picture go back to leaving the dog for short periods at first and be home to monitor his behavior some dogs will do better with being left in one room rather than in the whole house if for example there is a place in the house where the dog might sit and bark at noises or sites outside i like to create a leaving ritual with my own dogs i send them all to their beds i give everyone a treat and then i wave and say see you later guys and then i walk through the door and close it now the great thing about doing this during the training sessions and when i have to leave my dogs when i have to leave the house is that it teaches the dogs that when i do this behavior it means to relax and take a nap so if i need to use it in other situations like i need to leave them in the car briefly or i'm staying at someone else's house and i need to leave them there briefly that it's the same behavior that is at home let's go to bed when leaving your dog for the first few times i suggest using a video camera or putting music on and being home so that if the dog starts to worry you can return and then go back a step in the training plan when raising criteria you want to make sure that you're not predictably making things harder and harder for the dog so if you've left your dog for longer than you've ever left him before then the next time that you leave your dog i suggest leaving your dog for an extremely short period of time if you have a dog that gets over excited by greeting you when you return you can change the picture by making your homecoming about going out to the bathroom or receiving a treat instead of a greeting then 10 minutes later after your dog has had a chance to calm down you can then greet your dog as you would have when you got home do you guys need to go to the toilet halo this way to set your dog up for success provide enough physical and mental stimulation before leaving such as walking and playing a training game a small pen or crate is not a long-term solution for leaving a dog for extended periods of time the end goal is having the dog loose in a room or loose in the house where he can move around and make choices throughout the day you might need to hire a dog sitter to come and interact with your dog if you need to work long hours dogs are social animals and spending too much time alone or in a small confined area can cause behavior problems the topic of this video is how long should you spend training your dog in training sessions and the answer is it really depends on a few factors which i'm going to be talking about but it's extremely important to remember that every single interaction that you have with your dog is training them something so you're technically training your dog a hundred percent of the time that you interact with your dog and i don't mean to overwhelm you with that idea but you need to be mindful of your interactions with your dogs between training sessions because they're constantly learning every interaction that you have here's a list of factors to consider when deciding how long a training session should be for a specific behavior you want to consider the dog's age the dog's size the personality of the dog how mentally or physically taxing the behavior might be for the dog how physically fit the dog is how the dog is feeling on that specific day and the rate of reinforcement that you're going to be using the first factor that i mentioned is age if you've just brought home a young puppy i suggest keeping training sessions short and for me short is under 60 seconds so if you want to work on more stuff in a day you can do multiple training sessions throughout the day if you have a puppy that gets very excited by food i suggest training after a meal i like to feed all my dogs a big breakfast so that they're not over excited by the food during the training but if you have a puppy that seems uninterested in your treats or your or the kibble that you're using to train you can use the breakfast to train the dog or train before a meal after a few successful short training sessions with your puppy you can then experiment with the length of the session and if your puppy looks disinterested it's no big deal just make sure to keep the session shorter the next few times keep in mind that older dogs might not want to train as long as they used to when they were younger so you might keep sessions a little bit shorter for older dogs to keep them in the game if you're using food to train your dog in training sessions size plays a role in how long the session can go on for so for bigger dogs they can eat more food because they have a bigger stomach but little dogs can't so you can cut the treats extremely small for these two little guys they can even be the size of the head of a pin if it's cheese something like cheese like this i also use the toy dog kibble for them which is very small and then another thing is if i have larger treats like the toy dog kibble i measure it out before the training session and then when the bag ends the training ends because there's just not enough room in their stomach to continue training the personality of the dog can also help determine how long training sessions should be my little chihuahua kiko here has always preferred short sessions and if i go too long then she starts to slow down and get disinterested by the training my terrier here is the complete opposite when i kept sessions extremely short under 60 seconds he started to get way too excited by training so instead of doing short sessions throughout the day i would do longer sessions like three minutes and five minutes and i found out that by doing that with him it made him way less excited about training which was good because he was too excited he started making noise like growling and whining while he was training and by having the longer sessions it helped with that issue that i was having with him i have three really easy border collies so i can't screw up very much because they could train forever and not get over aroused or frustrated during the training the next factor is how mentally or physically taxing the behavior is for the dog so mentally taxing might be that the dog is learning a new behavior and they've never done anything quite like that behavior so if you're teaching something new usually dogs tire faster than if they're learning something that they've already learned and you might be proofing it or just reminding them about it and physically taxing there are some behaviors like laying that are very easy for dogs to do and their other behaviors like sit pretty for example when a dog's learning sit pretty at first they don't have the muscles to sit pretty for a long duration and so by repeating the behavior your the dog is actually getting tired so one solution that you can do is train multiple behaviors in a training session and if one is physically taxing then the next behavior you could work on is laying down so you could do sit pretty and then laying down and then maybe circling around you so that the dog isn't getting tired from the training which will then turn into disinterest in training when training behaviors involving movement you also want to keep in mind how physically fit your dog is because for example if you asked me to do 20 push-ups i would say no thank you but another person would say oh wow that's really easy i can do that and the same goes for dogs so the fitter your dog is the longer they usually can work so if your dog is out of shape or overweight they're going to probably not be able to work as long as your friend's dog who is physically fit the next factor is rates of reinforcement that means how many treats you give out during the training session so if you're using a high rate of reinforcement like i did for example in the video where i was teaching my dog to bow i was giving treat treat treat after treat i'm going to keep the training session extremely short one so the dog doesn't get full and two so the dog doesn't get overwhelmed if you're using a low rate of reinforcement maybe you're working on a stay with duration then the training session could be much longer so for example if you're working on a stay and your dog is staying for one minute and then 20 seconds the training session is going to be much longer than teaching a a sit pretty behavior the final factor that i'm going to talk about is how the dog is feeling on a specific day now there are some dogs that even when they don't feel very well they'll still be super excited to do training but there are other dogs that they're just not having a very good day and it starts to show in the training session and so if you notice your dog is seeming disinterested or overly frustrated for some reason i suggest ending the session and then trying again later or instead trying another day and instead of training you can substitute that for giving them a food puzzle or a yummy chew stick to entertain themselves with and create some variety in their day and then save the training for later when they're feeling better the method that i like to use for determining how long training sessions can be is doing a few short training sessions and then doing a trial session where you go on a little bit longer and see how the dog does if the dog does great then i suggest doing a few short training sessions again not back to back and then another trial session where the training goes on for even longer than the previous trial and see how the dog does now i find that when you vary what you do in training sessions for example training a few different behaviors in the same session that can actually help dogs work for longer in training sessions where if you work on the same behavior for two minutes dogs can get bored depending on the behavior for most dogs i suggest the majority of training sessions be between 30 seconds and five minutes but then you might want to do a much longer training session because you've gone to a field where you want to work with your dog and then you work with your dog for 20 minutes and the dog could be fine with that some dogs can work forever like my border collies here and that brings up a really important fact that they can work more than they should so i like to set a timer when i do active behaviors so that i don't overwork them one thing i also do is play a song on my phone so when the song ends i know about how long i've been training because sometimes i can get a little bit carried away so it's important to keep in mind that when you're working with dogs that can just keep going in this video we're going to go over puppy safety now puppies aren't made of glass but we need to take care when training them letting them interact with the environment and also when letting them interact with other dogs now in my opinion the three most important things to consider are the repetition of movement jumping and jolting and rough play in this video we're going to go over all of those and i think it's really important for all puppy owners to know about this so that's why i made this video so why is it important to limit rough play as well as jumping and jolting movements in puppies well their bones ligaments muscles and joints are all in the process of growing and are more susceptible to injury than in the bodies of adult dogs now there's something in puppies long bones that are called growth plates now these consist of several specific cells that allow the bones to grow and they only close between 12 to 20 months of age depending on your dog's breed and size now it's generally accepted that while these growths growth plates are still in your puppy's body or your adolescent dog's body you shouldn't have your dog jump repetitively higher than their ankles which seems completely crazy but this doesn't mean that you should never let your puppy ever jump until they become 12 to 20 months and then suddenly start drilling them on jumps and agility it means take care not to repeat jumping higher than the ankles until they the growth plates have closed and then after that you're gonna carefully work your dog's body up and muscles up to be able to jump as high as you wanted your dog to jump rather than suddenly crazily letting them jump just because the growth plates have closed so here are some other things to consider in regards to preventing injury the correct diet how much you feed your puppy if you're feeding too much or too little you can leave your puppy susceptible to injury and incorrect growth process sleep and exercise are also really important the puppy's got to be getting enough sleep and exercise the puppy shouldn't be getting too much or too little exercise as that can be detrimental to their health and also can cause injury jumping and jolting movements say you've been watching tv with your puppy woo and he doesn't want to stay with you anymore he wants to jump down and play with his toys instead of just letting him jump off the couch you can help him down to prevent him jumping higher than his back now that can be very jolting this is really really really important for toy dogs i see a lot of people with toy dogs that aren't taking care with the dog jumping on and off of their really high bed or letting the dog run down the stairs if you're not like me and you don't like to micromanage your dog then simply teach your dog to sleep in a dog bed on the ground to keep them safe from jumping up and off of the couch all the time because that is something that puppies love to do you can carry your puppy down the stairs to prevent injury if this is not possible you can have your puppy on a leash or train your puppy to walk calmly take care on slippery surfaces as slipping can cause injury to a growing puppy train and play on non-slip surfaces like grass padded floor or carpet so i've just got limos some food over here and i'm reinforcing him on the ground for not jumping up in the kitchen because the floor here is very slippery and if i were just to walk on in with his food goal he might think to jump up so as i walk i'm gonna drop food down on the floor you can also use a marker word yes if you're worried your puppy might jump chaotically then you can practice these games with your puppy's food and toys on a non-slip surface first so another really important concept for me in preventing injury in puppies but also in adult dogs is having your puppy or your adult dog wear a harness when attached to a leash now this is because if the puppy runs and hits the end of the leash suddenly there's a huge jolting action right on their neck which is very delicate so when fitting a harness i like to make sure that the harness doesn't rest on the neck if the dog were to pull and also doesn't impede the leg movement when the when the dog is walking now all dogs are different shapes so one harness might fit your dog but it might not be a good harness for another dog so you basically need to put the harness on and see if it touches the dog's neck if the dog is making a gagging sound in the harness then it's basically working in the same way a collar is putting pressure on their neck the longer the leashes the more force to the jolt if your dog or your puppy were to hit the end of the leash there can be extreme force so take care even in harnesses if you have a long leash and you grab it and your dog runs to the end of the leash that can cause a huge injury wearing a harness doesn't mean pulling on leash train your puppy to walk on a loose leash from day one rough play a lot of people have the misconception that dogs and puppies know what's best for them in regards to play and interacting with each other there's the potential for injury during rough play as well as if your dog is playing with larger or stronger dogs puppies and adult dogs can play in a safe manner as long as you're there to monitor it and interrupt it before rough play starts repetition puppies naturally offer a wide variety of movement when playing with another dog or playing on their own in training sessions we want to set it up so that we're not drilling the puppy and making the puppy repeat the same behavior over and over again because that can be bad for their health and cause injury it's really important not to drill your puppy on behaviors that involve a physical movement so i'm going to give you some tips on how to avoid drilling your puppy on the same behaviors one way of doing it is counting out how many treats you're going to use during the training session another way of doing it is timing how long you train for and a third way is you can film your training sessions and watch them back and sometimes i myself am horrified at how long i keep going with my own dogs so by doing these types of methods it stops me from over training another idea is keeping a training log so you keep track of which behaviors you work on each day and what i do is i plan to not train the same behaviors for at least three days if there's something that involve a really physical movement so for example if i'm teaching leg weaving and i've worked on it quite a lot i might spend two days not doing leg weaving stand to down stand to down is quite a physical behavior so you're not going to make your puppy repeat that every single day because that could be bad for their joints so that's the example i'm going to use right now for this training session we're just going to work first down to down for 10 treats and then we're going to move on and do some other exercises the more behaviors your puppy knows the healthier i believe they will be because they're using all their muscles rather than simply repeating the same behaviors over and over again so that's why i really like to do canine freestyle with puppies so i'll do my training demo where did i put my clicker over there okay so the last three ready down good boy stand awesome down well done stand good job down good job stand down awesome stand stand good job and now we're going to move on to something else if you're going to teach spin to the left you also want to teach spin to the right leg weaves is also another great behavior to practice with your puppy but obviously all these behaviors you don't want to do them repetitively so a great way to prevent this from happening is to teach multiple behaviors and practice them on different days of the week tugging with your puppy is a fun activity and can also be used as a reward during training however you want to keep in mind it is a behavior and so the concepts of jolting and repetition apply to tugging you don't want to hurt your dog by playing too much tug with your dog or playing too roughly with your dog so there's this misconception that you should train one behavior first with your puppy and then when that behavior is really good you move on to the next behavior well not only is there a problem with the fact that your puppy will be repeating the same movement over and over again but it's also not good mentally dogs thrive on variety and so you can make training sessions fun by adding variety of behaviors to the training session so in my opinion i would in a training session you can work on spin to the left and spin to the right right in the same training session or if you want to work on the dog circling around you you can practice going one way and then going the other way right in the same training session so this idea of repetition doesn't really apply to behavior modification all these dogs over here are lying really calmly waiting for me to finish training lumos and you can feed as many treats for calm behaviors as you want if you want to practice eye contact good job you can click and reinforce that or say yes and reinforce eye contact a calm settle a leave it behavior as much as you want you can repeat it as much as you want leave it good boy leave it awesome and the reason is because the dog's not doing any repetitive active jolting movements during that those types of exercises this video is on the topic of house training your new puppy now if you've just added an adult dog to your household you can use these same techniques and i suggest by treating the adult dog like an untrained puppy at first you will set your dog up for success by teaching him where you do want him to go first rather than leaving it to chance now it's important to understand that puppies and adult dogs come to us with a prior learning history so they have a preference already as to where they like to go to the bathroom for example if the breeder has been having the puppies go to the bathroom on grass or the previous home that you've rescued your dog from the dog used to go on cement and nothing else the dogs and the puppies are most likely going to want to go on those specific substrates or surfaces so to set yourself up for success if you get your puppy or adult dog and they're just not going to the bathroom where you want them to go you can experiment by using different surfaces like pebbles grass and sometimes horrifyingly enough concrete some dogs will only go on concrete if that is where they have been living before so what we can do is first use the substrate the dog prefers or the puppy prefers and then you can start switching it once you're having success with the dog going to the bathroom in the location that you want which hopefully is outside or in a litter box in your house and then once the dog is learning to go in the correct places then you can start switching the substrates it also helps if you add a cue to go to the bathroom because then you can give your dog the idea to go to the bathroom on new surfaces house training essentially consists of these two things one training your dog where you do want him to go and two using management to prevent him learning to go where you don't want him to to train your puppy where you do want him to go bring your puppy to the preferred location in a calm and neutral manner if the location is extremely big like outside you might consider having your puppy on a leash and harness or having an area in the yard that has a pen in it so you can take your puppy to the pen and then let your puppy wander around in the pen until he's gone to the bathroom once he starts to go to the bathroom i suggest waiting till he's just finished to praise or mark and reinforce with the treat now if you have a puppy or an adult dog that gets very distracted by you carrying or holding food that can get in the way of learning where to go so i suggest keeping the treats inside and using just praise when outside so after the puppy's gone you can make exciting noises like yay good boy oh my goodness like that and then you could play with your puppy as well while outside once you start to recognize the signals that your puppy is about to go to the bathroom you can add a verbal cue to the behavior i actually like to add a verbal cue to both peeing and pooping and this is very helpful if you're traveling somewhere or you there's an emergency and you have to leave the house and your dog's just not thinking to go to the bathroom you can tell them to go to the bathroom and it's really easy and puppies can pick it up very quickly so you just say the queue just before they go to the bathroom and then after they go to the bathroom praise them or feed a treat one technique that i learned when working at a shelter to help dogs get the idea to go to the bathroom is to calmly walk in circles and figures of eight in the area that you want the dog to go as if to simulate what another dog might be doing when they're searching for the right spot to go to the bathroom rather than just standing and staring at the dog who might then stand and stare back at you or doing exciting movements in front of the dog while they're trying to concentrate on going to the bathroom now once the dog starts to go to the bathroom it's important not to mark or get excited in the middle of the process because sometimes that can make the puppy stop peeing so i suggest waiting right till the end when they're just finished to then praise your puppy or mark and reinforce with a treat when you first bring home your new puppy or adult dog i suggest bringing them to the preferred location at least once an hour to give them the opportunity to go to the bathroom they might not need to go every single time you take them but the more frequently you take them out the higher the success rate of the dog learning to go in the correct location because if you wait too long the dog might go to the toilet inside your house now in between taking your dog out you can keep your dog in a pen or i suggest having your dog loose and watching your dog a hundred percent of the time while he's loose also to limit the amount of your house that he has access to while you're watching him so at first you could begin house training in your living room or the room that you like to be in the most and you're watching the dog the whole time and the doors to the other rooms are closed or there's a barrier there that way you don't have to get up every time your dog goes searching into another room and then you can work on room by room so first maybe you'd work on the living room then maybe you'd work in the bedroom and if you have rooms upstairs you can practice having your dog upstairs in a room and then at a certain point you can say something like do you need to go to the bathroom or do you want to go outside and then you can show your dog how to get outside to go to the bathroom or your puppy because what can happen is sometimes dogs don't understand that they can go to the door to that leads to outside when they're upstairs and might just go to the bathroom in one of the rooms furthest from the area that they hang out in similar to humans puppies and dogs tend to want to go to the bathroom in between activities so for example if your puppy has just been sleeping and is now awake he'll probably want to go to the bathroom so taking your puppy out to the bathroom at these times will set you up for success with training your puppy where he should go when he wants to go other examples of change of activities are when your puppy's done with his dinner or a meal when he's finished drinking water when you've finished doing a training session with your pup or when he's done playing with another dog using management and prevention for house training it's important to understand that when an animal rehearses a behavior no matter what consequence follows that animal will be more likely to do that behavior than if the animal had never done the behavior to begin with so what does that mean it means that if we set up the environment so that the dog isn't thinking to go to the bathroom in the house and preferring to go to the bathroom outside that is going to be more successful than trying to just let the dog do what he wants and then when he goes to the bathroom punish him another side effect of using punishment is that you're not teaching the dog where you do want them to go and what can quickly happen is that the dog can make the connection that the punishment only happens when you're in the room when the dog goes to the bathroom so there have been many cases where dogs will hide in the house to go to the bathroom or only go to the bathroom in the house when the owner leaves and that can make it even harder to train the dog to go in the appropriate area so what should you do if your dog does go to the bathroom inside your house i suggest if you see your dog just about to go to the bathroom you can run to the door going let's go outside and show them that it's outside that you want them to go to the bathroom but if you have an extremely sensitive dog or you've rescued a dog that is kind of scared of you sometimes if you act too excitedly when they're going to the bathroom they can find it so extremely punishing that it almost acts in the same way as if someone were to scold their dog or hit them with a newspaper so you have to be sensitive as to whether you're scaring your dog when you're trying to entice them to go outside some puppies are very happy go lucky and you see them just about to go to the bathroom you can pick them up and take them outside other puppies they see you coming and they're terrified the next time because they remember it was such a traumatizing event when you pick them up so you have to really take care with that once they've started going to the bathroom in your house there's really nothing you can do and i don't suggest using punishment what i do suggest is then increasing your vigilance and increasing uh decreasing the time between when you take the puppy out and cleaning whatever it is that the dog went to the bathroom on so i personally like to use something called nature's miracle to clean things and i promise you they have not paid me to talk about them i don't do any sort of sponsoring products but that is my favorite product for for cleaning up something that you don't want the dog to then mark on again so i will either clean something with nature's miracle or i'll simply throw away whatever it is so if it's a small cheap rug i will throw it away or use it for something outside rather than set my puppy up for failure by having something that smells of urine in the house now bleach and just washing stuff in the machine can sometimes not remove the odor of the urine for the dog and that can make them want to go to the bathroom even more in those specific areas that they've been before another idea that you can do is to if your dog is repeatedly gone to the bathroom in a specific place you can sprinkle food there and play find it games where the dog eats food off of the area where they go to the bathroom so they can start learning it's a place where they eat rather than go to the toilet you can put a bed there you can put their water bowl there and naturally as as clean cleanly people we don't want to go in the areas that the dogs have gone to the bathroom in the house so you might unconsciously avoid those areas especially if it's under a table so i suggest if you're doing a training session with your dog and you've cleaned the area and it's now dry you can start training your puppy or dog in those areas so the dog's associating that area that it's not a toilet very frequently if you have rooms in your house that you very rarely use those might be the rooms that if they're open and the dog needs to go and hasn't been able to get your attention to go out they might go in those rooms so you can if you're doing a training session you can use those rooms for training and that will make your dog less likely to want to go to the toilet in those rooms if you have an adult dog that started to poop in your house one thing you can do is feed the dog at regular times rather than a random feeding schedule like a leaving food down where they're just eating randomly at different times and making them go to the bathroom randomly you can also walk your dog at predictable times so i suggest a walk in the morning and the evening to get them stimulated to want to poop and if they don't poop on the walk you could do some type of activity that gets them a little bit excited so maybe playing chase or throwing a ball or doing something that gets the dog a tiny bit excited to make them want to go to the bathroom it can seem a little bit overwhelming at first taking the dog out all the time and supervising the dog a hundred percent of the time when he's not put away but i really suggest that at least for the first two weeks when you get your new puppy or dog to be doing this because not only can you just be focusing on house training but by supervising your dog 100 of the time that he's loose you can also be reinforcing your dog for all the appropriate behaviors he's doing like relaxing at your feet when you watch tv or playing with his toys or playing with you with his toys and you'll be right there to interrupt behaviors you don't like for example bothering your cat or going and chewing on your furniture so if your dog is doing these inappropriate behaviors you're already there watching and making sure that he doesn't have a reinforcement history for rehearsing these behaviors so i like to use a kissing noise or a recall so if the pup goes over to chew on the furniture you can say pop-up and then redirect the dog to playing with his toys and by doing this in the first two weeks you set yourself up for faster training and also your dog isn't rehearsing all those undesirable behaviors which makes them harder to get rid of in the future it's important to note that going to the toilet can also be a sign of stress or anxiety so simply working on just house training and not working on the problem that's causing the stress and anxiety can mean that the dog will continue to go to the toilet inside the house for example if your dog goes to the toilet immediately when you leave the house it could be that the dog is worried or anxious about you leaving and when you work on the problem that is really going to help with the house training problem that you're having using an indoor toilet for house training a lot of people are on the fence about whether they should use an indoor toilet such as a litter box for their new puppy or adult dog when left unattended in a pen now there are some pros and cons to using a litter box and i'm going to go over them some of the cons to using an indoor toilet with your dog is that the dog can start to generalize to other things in the house so for example if you're using pee pads sometimes a dog can start to think that your shirt in the corner or one of the grocery bags is a pee pad and then go to the toilet on those but in my experience if you're taking your dog out as frequently as you would take your dog out if they didn't have a litter box that problem is going to be very very unlikely to happen as if you're only having your dog go to the toilet inside the house in the litter box another con is how much room they take up so the larger the dog or puppy the larger the litter box has to be and some dogs don't like to pee and poop in the same area so if you have a dog like that once they've peed in the litter box or the pea pads they're not going to want to go near that to go to the toilet and conversely if they've pooped there they might not want to pee there so you need to have a larger area for them to be able to get away from whatever they've created before one way to get around this is to be very cleanly and continually clean the litter box and not leave the dog in that pen long enough where they would need to go multiple times so walking your adult dog or puppy just before they go in there and having them go to the bathroom first is going to set them up for success if you're using pee pads in your pen some puppies and adult dogs like to play with them and tear them apart thinking they are an interactive toy that you've left for them to play with like the other toys you might leave in the pen so i suggest taping the pads down in the litter box at first and you might need to tape them down always but that can help the dog not think to have the idea to pick up the corner and just start tearing away at them especially because some of them are really expensive some of the pros to using a litter box is that when you leave your puppy unattended say you go to the grocery store and then suddenly you're stuck in traffic and you're not getting home as soon as you thought you would that you have that peace of mind that if your puppy does need to go to the bathroom he can another pro to using a litter box is that if there's terrible weather outside and your dog just won't go to the bathroom outside you still have the litter box in fact when i lived in sweden and i just moved there there were a whole bunch of fireworks going off every day for celebrations and it was very traumatizing for my chihuahua to go outside so every time she went outside she would get very scared and then she couldn't go to the bathroom so i got some pee pads and then she could go to the bathroom inside and i could work on her fear of fireworks in small achievable steps and get her over that without having to drag her outside you know five times a day and experience these scary noises so the litter box really saved my training for my little chihuahua kiko and um also some dogs actually my little dogs were really great um in sweden but some dogs just don't like going in rain or snow so having that litter box there for your little dog to go in when they really don't feel like going to the bathroom outside can be very helpful it really depends on your dog and your circumstance as to whether a litter box is going to be useful for your training for example my latest puppy halo when i got him at eight weeks he was extremely house trained the breeder had trained him to go to the bathroom reliably outside and also she'd worked on separation training so i could within days just leave him in a pen and know that he wasn't going to go to the bathroom or feel like going to the bathroom if i left him in there short enough because he knew the toilet was outside however with my previous puppy wish she didn't seem to know that the bathroom was outside so i had to use a technique where i put pee pads everywhere in the pen except for a small corner where her bed was and then i would sprinkle cable on there so she could start to learn to pee on the p pads i also think she had less control over her bladder because she would walk around and suddenly you know she'd be playing and then peeing so if you have a dog that's doing stuff like that where they have very little control of their bladder um or they need to go so frequently compared to another puppy i find using the the pee pads or a litter box extremely helpful in the training in separation training especially because then you don't have to worry while you're trying to teach your puppy to be left alone that they need to go to the bathroom and and that your house training is getting ruined while you're doing the separation training so what if you have a dog that is just peeing on everything or completely unhouse trained what you can do is use that same technique of setting up a pen where everywhere is a toilet in the pen and then you gradually shrink the toilet into one corner so you might begin with the whole floor being just pee pads and then grab figuring out which corner the dog likes to sleep in and not go to the toilet in and then you shrink the pee pads into the corner that the dog uses the most and then put it in a in a box then if you take your dog out frequently enough um outside as you would with a dog that doesn't have a litter box so you're taking the puppy or adult dog out every hour to go to the bathroom and every time you notice there's a change in activity in the dog then what i find actually it's been a hundred percent is that the dog prefers to go outside rather than in the pen so i've trained both my little dogs and i got my little terrier with a house training issue and he always will prefer to go outside rather than in any sort of litter box inside even if it's snowing so that's my technique for training dogs to uh to go to the bathroom outside and utilizing a an indoor toilet but it's also important to know where to set up the litter box to begin with most people will naturally want to put the litter box as far away from the door of the pen as possible where you enter and then have the bed and the food near the door where you come in and then the toilet at the back that makes sense to us but to puppies if they're left in a room say this room and there's a door over here and their pen is here most puppies they will come to the the gate to look for you because they want to go to the bathroom and then some puppies won't think that oh i need to go to the bathroom i'll go back to the back wall and go there they will stand at the gate and then they'll go to the toilet there waiting for you because they prefer to go outside so with dogs that prefer to go outside and have a litter box i suggest putting the the litter box at the front of the pen towards the door that you come in and out of the room and then at the back having the bed and the water and the toy area for the puppy to go in his crate and sleep in his bed and play with his toys and then if he needs to go to the bathroom then he comes to the gate area and that's where the toilet is i find that is the most successful way to set up an area but it really depends on the dog some are extremely house trained and they'll really want to go to their litter box especially if the breeder has trained that behavior so it's important that if you have gone to a breeder or maybe the humane society or rescue that you got the puppy from their foster's used a specific way to teach the dogs to go to the bathroom you can use that same way in the pen that you set up this video is on the topic of the advantages and the disadvantages to using crates and tethers with young puppies now in my opinion it's extremely important to teach every puppy how to behave when in a small confined area like a crate as well as on a short leash this is because even though you might not intend for your puppy to ever be in that situation in their whole life because you live in the country at some point there might be an emergency or you might need to go to the vet and your dog will have to be on a leash as well as have to be in a crate if they're going to get an operation for something say your dog's broken their leg and they need to be kept in a crate in the back room of the vet before the operation or after they wake up so for me it's extremely important to teach dogs how to behave on a leash and in a crate when on a short leash or in a crate a dog's movement is very limited they can literally stand up turn around and lay down again so i believe it's extremely important for us to teach dogs that when they're in a situation where they can't make any choices that they should enjoy relaxing it's time for a nap or just to settle and look around in the environment and know that they will be released at some point without training your dog what to do when confined on a short leash or in a crate some dogs are going to be okay with it and figure it out that it's a time to relax but other dogs with different personalities might feel frustrated stressed or even anxious in these situations without any training i like to think of it in the way that what a person would feel like is most likely similar to being trapped in an elevator you have all these intentions about what you're going to be doing during the day and then suddenly the elevator closes and doesn't open again and that can feel for some people very stressful frustrated and when you had intentions of doing other things and not being standing in an elevator the time in the elevator can be extremely stressful and for some people even frightening because you don't know if you're going to get out again and i believe that's how some dogs feel when they're put into crates and they've had no training so i like to train the crate as a bedroom so when the dog goes into the crate they know it's time for sleeping and when the door opens then the sleeping time is over like a bedroom rather than an elevator when you've taught your puppy or dog to settle when on a short leash or in a crate it can then become an amazing tool to help you with managing your dog's behavior say for example if you'd like to go to a cafe with your dog you can sit down and because the dog is confined to a short leash they know it's time to relax and take a break or if you need to go on a plane somewhere and your dog goes into their crate it's a great way for the puppy or the dog to relax on the plane being in their little crate i personally love bringing a crate or a short leash and a mat to parks and places where if i'm going to be there all day the dog needs a break and the perfect place for a dog to relax and get some sleep is inside of a crate or on his mat personally i prefer the crate because the dog knows that nothing's going to bother him while he's asleep so i always bring crates for my dogs if we're going to be doing some all-day event so they can relax and have a break when they need to crates and leashes are also great for managing behavior for example introducing dogs together where you're practicing working on dogs settling near each other and the leash is there for safety in case one dog were to get up and overwhelm the other dog another great use for a crate is that once your puppy understands that a crate is about taking a nap or settling then you can take the crate and put it in your car and then it makes it so much easier to train your puppy to relax and take a nap while you're driving somewhere now if you don't train your puppy to be calm and relaxed in the car what can happen if you go exciting places is that your dog can learn to walk around inside your of your car looking out the windows and getting excited and then when you get to the place that you want to go the dog can be way too excited and it can kind of interfere with your training of teaching your dog to walk in on a loose leash when out and about there are some disadvantages to using crates and tethers with puppies and for me the biggest one is that it really limits their movement and choices so young puppies are kind of like human toddlers they need to move around constantly for a large period during the day because their body won't grow normally if they're not moving around if their movement is limited to standing up turning around and laying down their body is going to grow differently than if they were loose moving around and interacting with the environment because as they're doing that they're building their the correct muscles and their legs are going to grow normally with the movement where if their movement is too limited and they're spending way too much time on a leash or in a crate they're not going to grow in the same way as a dog that is loose their brains also in my opinion aren't going to grow the same way if the dog isn't interacting with the environment like the toys in the environment and the nature outside if they're just on a leash or in a crate prevented from doing any sort of activity or making any choices of their own so in my opinion in conjunction with training your dog to relax and take a nap when on a short leash or in a crate it's extremely important for us to teach our puppies what to do when loose in the area that you're going to be leaving your dog as an adult so you might have your dog inside your house or confined to a bedroom or something like that when you're gone and that way during the day while you're at work your dog can make choices that involve moving around and using their body rather than just standing up turning around and laying down again now if you keep your puppy or your dog on a leash and in the crate all the time that's not going to teach your puppy what to do when loose in your living room or loose when home alone so it's extremely important to work on those behaviors i personally when i get a new puppy i'm not tethering the puppy to me because in that first two weeks the puppies literally a blank slate in your house they have no reinforcement history of anything that they want to do and so i'll have my puppy loose and i'll be showing my puppy all the behaviors and all the things i want him to be doing when loose and interrupting him and getting his attention when he starts to have ideas about what he would want to do and by doing this for two weeks i usually with every puppy have a puppy that can be loose in the house extremely fast the only thing you want to keep in mind is that when you have a young puppy that's around eight weeks they're going to be chewing on stuff because of their teeth growing in and then once the chewing ends you think you're scot-free and that the puppy is never going to chew on anything again but as they hit around five months or 20 around 20 weeks sometimes even 18 weeks they can start to want to chew on stuff again and then you'll need to use management so i suggest that you shouldn't leave a puppy loose until they're about six months old um but instead of confining a puppy to a a crate or on a short leash i suggest that the puppy has a large pen when the owner can't watch the puppy and and direct the puppy to be making the correct choices about what to do when loose in their house on the internet there's a lot of information about using a crate or a tether to teach your puppy not to go to the toilet inside your house but in my opinion it's more important to focus on the idea of teaching your puppy where you do want them to go which is outside so instead of confining the puppy to a crate and a leash all the time while inside so they're not wanting to go to the toilet in the same area that they're laying i suggest having the puppy loose and then frequently taking the puppy out when he wakes up from a nap when he's just eaten when he's just had some water when he's just played when you've just done some training together those are the perfect times to take a puppy out to see if he go if he'll go to the bathroom and also taking the puppy out extremely frequently and reinforcing your puppy when he does go outside and i do have information on house training and i'll link that in the description below but for me it's extremely important to teach our puppy the skills of being loose in your house and not always confined to a leash or a crate because what can also happen is um if a puppy and i've seen this a lot because i get a lot of emails from people that they've been cra house training their puppy by keeping them in a crate or on a leash all the time and then when the puppy's not in the crate or the leash the puppy doesn't know how to behave and starts to behave abnormally so uh some of the things that i've seen and this is not based on any science it's just opinion and experience but um what i've experienced a lot is puppies where they they're kept too long in a crate and too long in a leash one let loose they tend to have pika which is they start to devour things that they see so when let loose they just start eating things like coins or pebbles or trying to eat bark obsessively and when i've suggested to not have the puppy ever in a crate in a crate for a few weeks and instead in a pen the puppies have stopped obsessively eating things another thing is biting really hard and being over excited so a lot of puppies they immediately sleep on a leash or in a crate but when loose in the house they don't know how to settle and they run around excitedly um just doing stuff obsessively so if you notice that that is happening it could be that the puppy's spending too much time in a small confined area or can find on a leash and the side effects are showing when the puppy is loose so for me to prevent these side effects when i do leave my puppy i like to leave my puppy in a large pen a puppy-proof pen so they can't make any mistakes that has a crate with a bed in it some toys and some water if the puppy is extremely unhouse trained i might have puppy pads in there but if i'm home and i'm working on house training i'll put the puppy into that pen when i can't watch the puppy and then the puppy can move around and make choices naturally and have their body grow naturally where they feel like moving and they can then i will frequently take the puppy out to go to the bathroom and then put the puppy back in the pen and get back to work maybe i'm editing a video or something like that and then the puppy can make choices while i'm working in regards to tethering your puppy or your new adult dog to you the whole time that you're home with your dog i've actually found some disadvantages to that and one is if you don't train your puppy not to pull on leash or what to do when on a leash before doing this what you can do is teach your puppy to pull on leash because if you just tie them to you at certain points what's going to happen is the puppy's going to want to do other things and every time they pull they're going to be rehearsing pulling on leash the other possible disadvantage that i've noticed when clients have told me that they've used this method in the past is that the dog has a tendency to have less interest in the person that they're attached to than the other members of the family so a lot of times people will want their dog to bond with their say their child who the dog's going to be the service dog for but when the dog is has to be with the person and can't get away so they're constantly with the person and there are other people that the dog would like to interact with sometimes it can work against the idea of bonding and the dog just literally wants to get away from the person and get to do the things that he wants to do so for that circumstance i believe the best way to build that bond in that relationship is through choice and reinforcement when animals find it reinforcing to be with you that's going to build your relationship with your animal where they have to be with you all the time and they have no choice to get away that's not going to that's going to habituate them to being around you but to really build your relationship it's extremely important to use reinforcement so in that example of a family wanting the dog to like the the child that they're going to be the service dog for the best way to do that would be for the kid to use the highest value treats and perhaps the family when they train the dog they use lower value treats than that child and that when that child works with a dog they're using a really high rate of reinforcement and maybe with the parents they're using less high rate of reinforcement so the dog is realizing wow this kid is amazing so the question that you might be wanting to ask is how long is too long for my puppy or adult dog to be kept in a crate daily and in my opinion the answer is it really depends on your dog's genetics their personality their previous training and their previous history of behavior inside of a crate so for example if you have a mellow dog that likes to sleep all the time and likes small spaces then that dog is going to do way better being kept in a crate than another dog that is more active or a dog that is very impulsive and feels frustrated when he wants to do something and he's blocked from doing that certain thing so i find those dogs don't do as well in a crate because their choices are confined to very little choices of basically just standing up turning around and laying down again and i find for some dogs that um is very frustrating for them and it's hard to for them to actually enjoy being in a crate so um yes we can teach some dogs to spend a few hours in a crate but there are other dogs that could spend eight hours and be perfectly happy coming out for example when i flew from sweden to san diego and my little dogs were in their crates they were in their crates for nine and a half hours and when i opened the door for them to come out they didn't come out of their crates because they were relaxed and happy sure they had full bladders but they were so comfortable they didn't want to come out where other dogs the nine hours even with tons of training would have been extremely stressful for for some dogs so for me as i previously said i like to train the dogs to be loose or confined to a single room in the house when being left and that way the dog can make choices as to what to do when home alone rather than be in a crate but you might have to use a crate for some reason for example you're at a hotel and um they have to be in crates at hotels or your dog's never been in a hotel before and you know your dog's going to be better in a crate then loosen the room but if you're keeping your dog in a crate because you know they're going to destroy your house or go to the toilet all over your house you really need to think of a way to be able to set up training sessions so that you are working on the issue with the goal of the dog being loose and not making mistakes so one way of doing this is getting a dog sitter to come and walk your dog and let your dog out of the crate so they're not spending the whole time you're at work confined to a crate where they can just stand up turn around and lay down but they're actually having some activities so the crate is becoming a bedroom where they're they're sleeping and then they're also able to move around and make choices during the day because the dog sitter comes to help and let them out and do stuff with them but um one way to progress from a crate to being loose in the house is if you think your dog is destroying stuff because of other reasons like separation anxiety you have to work on those problems in conjunction with teaching them the appropriate behaviors so you might start out with the dog being left in the crate then a secure pen and some ways to secure a pen is getting those x pens with a top and a bottom and securing it with with zip ties or carabiners so the dog can't get the top and the bottom off and then expanding as your dog succeeds to having a whole room to themselves where you're home while the dog is being left in the room and you have a camera so that way your dog is learning to be alone in a room and then when your dog can be alone in the room while you're home you can practice having music on where your dog doesn't know if you're home or not and because you're in the house you'll be able to hear your dog moving around or you can have your dog being filmed and then you can know if your dog is doing something that you dislike inside the room so just to reiterate a leash and a crates are amazing dog training tools when you teach your dog what to do when on a leash or in a crate and you're also teaching your dog what to do when they're off leash and loose in your house it's really important that dogs take treats nicely during training otherwise they can bite your hand or they can get over aroused by the treat delivery and then that can kind of interfere with the training that you're doing so i'm going to show you how to teach your dog to take treats nicely and then you're going to do these sessions on taking treats nicely separately from your training and until your dog can take treats nicely you can deliver the treat in a way that your dog isn't going to bite your hand so the first step is choosing a time when your dog is a little bit sleepy and relaxed and you can see that wish here is not in a very excitable mood it's the perfect time to work on it because when she's excited her mouth has started to get hard when i give her the treats so um i suggest when you train this exercise that you cut the treats a little bit bigger and you use treats that aren't messy so if you're holding a treat and little crumbs are falling off if your dog does bite they're going to get little bits of crumbs and get reinforced for taking the treat hard so i've got some string cheese that i cut up in pretty big pieces usually i don't use such big pieces some hot dog some turkey hot dog and some kibble now if you have a dog that is extremely excited by food you can do something that my friend shawn davies does which is use a treat that the dog doesn't really even like so by giving the dog a piece of carrot and they take it like hmm i don't really like this that much then they get reinforced by the treats they really wanted so that's a great technique for starting other great techniques are working on some impulse control and calmness first so i'm going to link in this tutorial capturing calmness where you feed your dog for settling and not thinking about the food so when your dog is relaxed and calm and not thinking about the food so right now i don't know if if wish is still thinking about the food but it looks like she's noticed something out the window i can say yep and then mark her by feeding her between her paws so that's a really great first step to teaching a dog to be calm around food which will help to make their mouth less hard when taking the treat because it can also have to do with the dog's arousal level game one so this game is i'm gonna go and i'm gonna put the treat down between her paws and i actually haven't played this with her so um let me just line her up better so you can see so i'm going to go and i'm going to put the treat down between her paws but if she touches my hand to get it i'm not going to let it go i'm just going to move it back if she waits for my hand to put it down then i'm going to release it and move my hand back calmly it's really important that you don't move fast during these exercises to calm your dog down around treats you're going to move slowly and if the dog goes for your hand you're just gonna move backwards not in like a hahaha you suck kind of way but in a just oh i'm not gonna give it to you if you're gonna take take it excitedly good job so i have my hand down on the ground and then i'm going to release it and let her eat it it helps to put it under the dog's chin so that they don't have to lunge forwards to get the treat good job awesome you could add eye contact when you wait for the dog to look at you wish him now with some hot dog if your dog is successful with the low value treats you can start using higher value treats good job wish if you notice your dog gets very excited you can always take a break and wait till your dog has relaxed to begin the training again good job game two so the next game is moving your hand very slowly towards your dog and then as it gets there releasing the treat if you only feel the dog's lips and tongue or very soft teeth good job and it's important as kay lawrence actually mentions that you get the treat to your dog's face rather than hold it out so that they have to snag it once your dog is successful with a low value treat then you can start using higher value treats this is cheese here good job you can also practice doing things like a exciting treat delivery so i'm going to throw the cheese that's going to make her more likely to want to take the treat hard out of my hand good job also practice in different positions so standing up and giving the dog a treat awesome all the dogs in front of you at the different sides she thinks she's supposed to do something good job go between oh you wanted a cup cup okay good girl game three so another technique for dogs that take treats extremely hard is teaching the dog to lick the treat out of your hand so when you feel the tongue licking you release the treat into their mouth just a licking tongue then you can put it on a cue once the behavior is reliable that the dog is licking the treat out of your hand then you can add the cube lick lick good job yes so you say lick and they don't like then they don't get the treat it can take some time to train this as you saw um tug isn't reliably licking the treat into his mouth sometimes he tries to take it good job when your dog is reliably licking the treat out of your hand five times in a row i would suggest adding the cue lick before you present the treat good let's see what that looks like in slow motion adding the marker the next step once your dog is taking treats softly is incorporating the clicker if you plan to click and then feed your dog a treat with your hand i suggest that you do this exercise all you're doing is you're thinking about what position you want your dog to be in while you're training when you haven't given your dog any information yet so i don't mind standing laying down or sitting but i definitely do mind shuffling the feet or offering strange behaviors in between so i'm going to practice seeing if she's taking the treat softly before i click so she is so next up i'm going to click and then move to feed her a treat and she did it very nicely she's not moving around she looks great another thing you could do is if you want your dog to stare at your eyes instead of the treats you could you could wait and see if your dog would look at your eyes before you click and treat awesome great i'm gonna practice with her sitting and also standing awesome so if she does take the treat hard i'm just not gonna let go because we're not really training anything important we're just working on how she takes the treat good job i'm also using the low value treats now that i'm using the clicker because the clicker does make her excited now i'm going to practice with her standing up so she's taking the treats a little harder in the standing position than she was in the laying down position so i'm going to wait until her mouth is soft before i start clicking there she almost got the treat for taking it hard there you go good job i'm also still using the slow treat delivery to set her up for success so this time i'm going to see if she might look at me before i click good job good girl you can also practice with your marker words like yes good good girl wish good wish yes yes when i said yes i saw her pupils died awesome what to do in training sessions if your dog takes treats hard so while you're training your dog to have a soft mouth during training sessions where you're training other behaviors you can either feed your dog in a number of ways one successful way for some dogs is feeding like a horse where you put the treat on your hand and bring it under the dog's chin and then the dog usually eats it quite nicely there are some dogs that that scrape your hand or just slam their face into your hand to get the treat so then for those dogs i wouldn't suggest using the feeding like a horse method that it works really well for tug another method is putting the treat down on the ground and releasing it and if the dog goes for your hand obviously you don't give the treat until you've um until the dog doesn't touch your hand there's also tossing the treat but what can happen okay is it can make the dog very excited but if you're training freestyle for example um and you want your dog to be very excited no big deal legs legs [Music] jump through good boy sit hold balls awesome this video is on the topic of introducing a new dog to your multi-dog household now if you have a dog that has never been around dogs or you're just not sure what your dog will do around other dogs or has acted fearful anxious reactive or even aggressive towards dogs i suggest getting help from a veterinary behaviorist or a trainer that doesn't use any forms of physical or psychological intimidation to help you with this training first encounters set up the first encounters so all dogs have a positive experience when in the presence of the new dog control the environment to reduce stress and arousal don't let the encounter get to the point where one dog feels he has to intimidate or correct the other tips for first encounters begin in a neutral environment this will be less startling for a dog who has never encountered dogs in his own home and will allow you to create greater distance if needed than confined to a room settles together have both dogs settle on a mat at a distance and receive positive feedback for noticing the other dog such as verbal praise and treats calm walks together walk parallel from each other at a distance mark and reinforce when your dog notices the other dog if one dog is calm confident and friendly with other dogs you can have that dog walk ahead of the other dog that is unsure after success with parallel walking you can practice walking past each other in an arc and then past each other in a straight line decrease the distance if the dogs are calm and confident and increase the distance if the dogs start to show signs of stress or unease having the dogs settle first at a distance and then closer together is a great way to reinforce the dogs for being calm in each other's presence what can happen if you have a puppy whose first experiences are with playing with the other dog when meeting it can be hard to teach the puppy that the sight of the other dog isn't an invitation to play and bother the other dog unless you have an extremely calm social and confident dog when first meeting another dog especially in a situation that he is not used to it can cause him to feel stressed and excited this excitement can sometimes cause a dog to overreact or act unpredictably so the safest method for preventing the dogs from having a negative experience during their first encounters is to break the steps up so the dogs are feeling safe and confident every step of the way when i first got my latest puppy halo he was very confident and relaxed around my own dogs but when seeing strange dogs in the environment he started to become a little bit timid so what i did was meet people with calm friendly social dogs and i had them walk in front of me so that halo could follow behind and build his confidence and i also worked on settling with the other dogs to build a positive association with the new puppy every time you give the puppy a treat you give your adult dog a treat you want to do it in that order because that means you paying attention to your puppy predicts that you give your dog a treat if you give your dog a treat and then give the puppy a treat the dog's not gonna get as strong an association of the puppy predicting something good happening so anytime you pet your puppy or give your puppy attention or your puppy moves and you have a dog that's worried or dislikes the puppy you pay attention to the puppy or the puppy does something and then good job wish then wish get something amazing hey wishy good girl so brave good anytime you see your dog look at the puppy when they move you can also mark tell them how good they are and then give them a treat now you want to make sure that the distance is far enough apart that your dog is comfortable if your dog looks like your dog is threatening the puppy or doing warning signs or just can't look away from the puppy and is too hyper fixated then you need to create distance so when they were first hanging out wish was on the other side of a barrier getting used to the puppy for a couple of days before being this close and off leash hey wish good job good job it really helps if you have another family member or friend to help you with this because it can be a little bit tricky to train two dogs at once first interactions if you're blessed with introducing dogs that are social calm and polite with each other you might not need to manage the social interaction at all kiko my chihuahua is one of those dogs that i rarely have to manage at all around puppies unless the puppy is a little older and might actually hurt her by jumping on her splash my 12 year old border collie who usually has no interest in playing with puppies found halo to be the perfect match for her and they play very similarly so i didn't have to do much management at all when they were playing if one dog is calm confident and friendly and the other dog is a little bit unsure and needs more time to warm up you can have the confident dog stand sit or lay down calmly and the dog that's unsure can approach and sniff the dog from behind briefly without having to go face to face with that dog you can feed the dog that is getting sniffed and keep a hold of his collar if you are worried he will suddenly turn around and go face to face with the dog that is unsure keep the sniffing short so no dog gets overwhelmed two to three seconds is a great idea you can then cue the dog to move away with you on leash only do this with dogs that are comfortable with the exercise as some dogs do not like being sniffed when they have their collar held or when eating another variation is allowing a dog who is following the other one enough leash to sniff the dog he is following briefly before then creating distance the dog in the front can be receiving treats as it happens to set my puppy up for success to feel confident during a positive interaction with a new adult dog named tank we first walked with the dogs on leash together and then practiced a saddle at a distance from each other and then closer before then allowing the dogs to interact these three of my adult dogs were extremely comfortable with being loose with the puppy right from the start because they've had so much experience with puppies wish my three-year-old border collie was very fearful as a puppy of dogs and people and especially of being approached and touched she had an interest in being social but she was terrified of being touched or having the other dog go near her face so she would back up towards dogs she made a lot of progress and started to socialize and play with other dogs but then when she hit nine months old the day that she went into heat it was almost as though her brain reset to being extremely anxious and extremely fearful around dogs even around my own dogs suddenly she would act terrified if any of my dogs were to walk past her let alone even approach her even today she requires carefully planned introductions with dogs to prevent her having a fearful or anxious response she was already very used to having other dogs visit my house while she relaxed behind a barrier so it made it much easier when bringing the puppy home i would switch between having wish behind the barrier watching the puppy interact with me and the other dogs and then when the puppy needed a nap i would put the puppy behind the barrier and wish could be with the other dogs at first i used a double barrier so the dogs couldn't go face to face for some dogs the barriers might need to be on either end of the room at first so the dogs are 10 or 20 feet away from each other go sniff good good girl wish i first set up training sessions where the dogs could learn to interact through the barrier with guidance and reinforcement here i am throwing a treat behind wish so i can test to see if she'd like to approach the puppy again or if she would prefer to have a break if you have a dog that doesn't have a history of being calm friendly and benevolent when playing with other dogs of all ages in all situations when introducing the new dog to your household i don't suggest that you should just let them play together in the first few encounters and hope that nothing bad happens the calmer the dogs are the less likely they'll be to overreact so by taking it slow you can build on short positive experiences leaving your dog wanting more interactions with the other dog rather than the first experience of playing being a negative experience for one of the dogs it's a great sign if your dog initiates play in the first few encounters but just because your dog tries to initiate play with the other dog doesn't necessarily mean that he won't suddenly feel overwhelmed when actually playing for example if the other dog were suddenly to do something that your dog was not expecting like putting his paws up on your dog's back or biting at your dog playfully if at any point a dog is getting stressed overexcited or offering undesirable behavior you can interrupt the dog using a positively trained cue such as a recall an attention noise or the queue leave it come here let's go play with your toy instead here right here if your dog is just not listening you can separate your dogs and give them a break from each other it's important to learn what appropriate and inappropriate play looks like in dogs but at any time when you feel unsure i suggest interrupting the dogs and having them take a break apart from each other or just working on the settle use management and prevention between encounters and interactions keep the dogs in separate rooms when you have to leave the house to prevent them having negative interactions while you are not home having the dogs in the same room with a barrier can be problematic for some dogs because they can intimidate each other or get frustrated by not being able to reach each other monitor all interactions in the first stages while the dogs are building their relationship and learning how to interact with each other appropriately thank you for watching don't forget to like comment and subscribe to channel kiko pup to show your support you can also become a supporting member of this channel by clicking the join button or clicking the link in the description below see you later guys

Channel: Dog Training by Kikopup

Views: 3,215,244

Keywords: puppy training, dog training, what to train first, dog training tutorials, puppy training video, puppy training course, kikopup, emily larlham, dogmantics, puppy training 101, puppy training basics, professional dog training, puppy training no biting, stop puppy biting, puppy barking, obedience, best dog trainer, youtube dog trainer, puppy training come, teach your puppy to listen, shy puppy, online puppy training, puppy training online, how to train a puppy

Id: 4dbzPoB7AKk

Length: 179min 42sec (10782 seconds)

Published: Tue Jan 21 2020