COMMON FAILURE: KOHLER COURAGE Engine. USE a BRIGGS and STRATTON OPPOSING TWIN? how to Wiring , Carb

morning everyone from jeff's little engine service so my father-in-law brought in his lawn mower said it was making a really funny noise uh a scary funny noise like a lot of clinking and clanking and i said it sounded really bad well when i pulled the dipstick to check for oil there was no oil and what you can see on the dipstick here those are metal filings never a good sign to pull that out of your engine so this engine's a goner i'm not even going to start it up to listen to it i'm just going to replace it i have some used lawnmower engines out back i think i'm going to use first thing i need to do is just take this thing out of here it's a 20 horsepower kohler courage engine and a real downfall to this particular kohler engine is that it's a gravity feed fuel system and if the carburetor floods all that extra gas goes into the engine oil compartment and causes a too high oil level and of course the oil would be diluted with gas at that point and if you run it that way for too long you might notice it smoking but eventually you will ruin your engine and i believe that is what happened here so getting this engine out of here should be pretty easy we just have four bolts that hold the the engine to the frame and then we have of course the engine pulley that needs to be uh taken off first we have some wires we're going to have to disconnect here and we're going to have to keep track of where and what those are so we already have the mower in the rack let's go ahead and jack it up here this is a new rack i picked up about a year ago it works out great so the first thing we're going to want to do is pull off the wiring here to the headlights and here disconnect the wire from the hood and it looks like if we have the hood at that position we can just lift it straight up [Applause] and i'll spray a little bit of penetrating lube into the motor mount holes to try and loosen those things up for me looks like this cover here is going to have to be removed the heat shield 3 8 bolts on each side [Applause] there we go so now it's probably time to get to the engine pulley there it's a 5 8 bolts on the bottom of the pulley there it looks like we might have to take the little support here out of the way to have room to get to the bolt there we go hopefully this pulley isn't stuck on here that can be a real pain in the rear when that happens well it's not falling off like i would like probably take off the belt i guess usually you can just pull it off there we go one side off [Applause] then like i say you can just pull it out of there usually all right see that pulley come down that means it's not stuck that's good news so now we need to take off the motor mount bolts there's four of them i'll show you where the motor mount bolts are located [Applause] okay so you have two there under half inch and there's two back there one down two down this one here i might have to shorten my extension for that yeah that one's definitely tucked a little way up in there but you can get to it three bolts down one to go let's see if we can find that one on the other side well i get to the other side here to try and find that last motor mount bolt and it appears what's going on is you have to go up through this hole here and i think you can reach the bolt let me try that oh ouch oh dang i might have to use a something different here oh it looks like we'll just have to rotate the steering a little bit to get that steering bracket out of the way which direction here looks like that direction all right now we can get to that hole a little better and you can see the bolt right up in there okay all right bolt number four so uh if we put the emergency brake on it'll loosen up the drive belt here and we'll be able to pull it off that pulley easily um but at this point we'll probably be able just to lift the engine right off so it'll be time to disconnect the wiring here and then we'll also have to disconnect the throttle cable over here looks like this line coming off the gas tank will have to disconnect and of course the fuel line so to get the wires apart at the plug here um you just simply squeeze on both sides and wiggle it and it comes apart and then you have a 7 16 nut that holds the starter motor wire on and you'll want to disconnect the headlight wire from the engine there nope come on dang it there we go and at the other side here we're going to disconnect the throttle cable and the fuel line [Applause] and i think the fuel filter i'm going to try and disconnect here at the carburetor so i think if you take off the air filter cover here you'll be able to get to that fuel line maybe i think we're gonna have to take off [Applause] an air filter backing plate too to get to that fuel line but that's only two or three bolts here [Applause] oops did you guys see that you got two uh you got two i believe they're 10 millimeter nuts here and there's another connection somewhere oh yeah there's a 5 16 back there [Applause] all right it's a shoulder bolt now this thing will come off and i can remove the fuel line [Applause] and you just give it a twist here so i'll just screw this bolt into it can't find my hose clamp right now so we'll use this and you'll have to thread it in a good half inch or so to get it to stop the gas from coming out all right there we go stick this aside put this back together just so it's just keep track of everything [Applause] and this line here is just a an air uh vent that goes into the carburetor here so you can just unplug that looks like i'll have to disconnect it there also [Applause] i'm not being real careful with everything just because this engine is junk now so i'll just rip it out of there i think this engine is almost ready to come out of here uh double checking my work here make sure all the wires are disconnected i've only removed the one plug and this the starter wire but i think that's it now we just have to muster up some strength to pull this engine off [Applause] all right folks remember bend with your knees oh oh so this is what you have after you take the engine off pretty clean glad it came off that pulley easy [Applause] so if you look at this lawn mower you activate the blades by moving this lever so it's manually activated not electronically activated some lawn mowers just have a knob you pull um to engage the blades and this is important because uh it can it determines what used engine you can put in there um the lawn mowers that have the lawn mowers that have the electronically engaged blade clutch require a bit more electricity so the alternators have to produce a little more amperage uh what engine should we use for that lawn mower i have one in mind welcome to the junkyard by the way uh the one i have in mind is this one here it's only a 16 horsepower engine but it's in really good condition and runs great and i'm pretty sure i can tune it to run like a mad dog and this lawnmower had a transmission blowout so we can go ahead and use the engine for it here's the transmission blowout pretty brutal but at least we have a good engine here i know that and thanks to my friends at grip tools for sending me this hose reel it's an excellent tool and i mounted it to an old pressure washer frame i'm able to put all the uh the tips where the old pressure washer tips used to go so now we have converted this to a uh air station you do have to install the piece yourself here after you receive it but that's about all you need to do other than mount it up and i had to put a couple of old rototiller weights here on it to keep it from tipping over and this will help me get air pressure out to the junkyard because the junkyard is at least 50 feet away we got 50 feet of air hose here so let's do it i work all around this property and i don't have air everywhere so i just wheel this thing around you can see i have some air hose heading out this way [Applause] okay oh we got to watch out for this guy he will sneak up on you okay now i have instant air and 50 more feet of hose you can see i have a about a hundred foot extension hose coming out of my garage to the back side of the property back on the back forty and i'll show you how this works so now we have air all the way out to the back 40. so i think what i'm going to do is just tip this thing kind of on its side looks like my neighbor's mowing his yard we're going to tip it on its side and wedge a log under there so we can get to the bolts easier oh there he is back there i see him you can't sneak up on me chunky okay wish me luck lift with the legs there she is she is a beaut all right now i just have to figure out how to get that engine way over there almost there there we go folks you want to make sure the surface is nice and clean when you remount the new engine or the used engine and i think i'll probably remove that pulley to get it out of the way for when i mount the engine so if you put on the parking brake that will loosen that drive belt now much easier to get that belt off of there all right so all these wires can look kind of confusing but there's really not that many what we have here these are your headlight this is your headlight wire of course and if you look you can see that the headlight wire ends up going into this plug right here so you know that that's probably where one of the power sources needs to come from off the alternator and i would bet that that yellow wire is probably the ground wire and yeah let's see what we've got oh i was worried about this muffler fitting in front here i kind of have a couple of issues going on here one as you can see it's pushed the engine is pushed right up against the gas tank and my other concern is that this exhaust pipe here is right up against the frame so let's see if we can address those problems well nothing seems to be going right with this repair i decided i was going to take off the gas tank and see if this gas tank will work on that other cub cadet um so i need to get this off of here disconnect the fuel line okay so i have this gas tank off of here and here my chicken and now i need to get this tank off of here i measured it it looks like they're about the same width on the mounting bolts back in there you can see there's one on each side so i think the tank should come out now hopefully remember this engine's not even mounted in here yet i might have to take it out to get this gas tank out i think i do let's do it one gas tank removal see what we have for fitment here interesting go grab those other brackets so i think this gas tank is going to work uh just going to have to bend the tops of the bracket a little bit to get to where the mounting holes are another thing i'm going to have to deal with is the fuel cap doesn't um come out of the the side anymore you can see that hole there was for the fuel cap so now we're going to have to probably just drill a hole here i'm thinking okay so the gas tank went in all right let's see if everything fits [Applause] you remember the mounting bolts wouldn't line up oh yeah all right you know i think that's gonna work now i may have to take a little piece of this frame out here for that muffler tip but all in all we're looking good well as you can see we're finally starting to make progress um as i mentioned i think i need to do something about the muffler here because it's the exhaust pipes contacting the frame so i'm going to make some indentations in the back of that in the back of this exhaust pipe make it flat back there because i don't need much room that should give me enough clearance there just by squishing the exhaust pipe a little bit and then i'm going to go ahead and make sure that the pulley installs correctly and then probably mount the engine up so i think i'm going to heat this baby up and then bend it well let's try that i don't want to sit here all day [Applause] let's see well you know sometimes you just gotta get kind of medieval with this stuff [Music] yeah i think we definitely did get the clearance that we need right on time to get these motor mount bolts in okay i think i finally got one of these bolts started up in here yep [Applause] yeah this was the hard one to get to got that hole to get up in there but i think everything's going together here yep right on so that's all four mounting bolts are lined up and in place [Applause] and i can show you the clearance now you know it's not much but at least it's not rubbing yeah i think that's probably enough clearance of course uh i can give it another [Music] whack yeah i think i got a little more clearance perfect we're good [Applause] all right we're starting to look like a lawn mower again i'm gonna get under here and tighten up these motor mount bolts okay one up in the hole here where's that other one i forget one yeah i think i forgot one this back one over here all right so as i mentioned um we're using different mounting holes than where the kohler was mounted but all the holes line up with these new holes all right so all the bolts engine mounting bolts are in place and locked down i think it's time to put this pulley on and [Applause] this pulley it doesn't have a separate key the key is built into it there if you can see but the old engine that came out had a spacer so i got to take that spacer off i think and use it i didn't measure the shafts i probably should have but i think i'm going to have to use that spacer nice okay so it goes this way and then we have the pulley that goes on looks like i'm going to have to take off this belt keeper to get the pulley on i probably will just loosen up one side and take the other side out or i'll just take both sides out okay now the pulley goes on and i need to slip that belt over i have to put down the camera to slip that belt over [Applause] put the bolt in place everything seems to be going together nicely all right ladies and gentlemen we're about wrapped up with getting this engine mounted up [Music] here right everything is in place [Music] yeah guess i can go ahead and put this deck back together the belt just slips back on we'll put the belt keeper back in place everything's in place chunky plug here that round hole right there here is the ground so we know the corresponding hole right there is the magneto coil kill wire and these are the only other two wires that come off this engine are red and a white and both of those go up underneath the flywheel to the alternator i have a manual i can look up that's going to going to tell me exactly what each of these wires does so let's check that out so the manual is not real clear unfortunately but one thing it does say is that the red wire should be two to four amps dc unregulated um for charging the battery and the other wire the white wire the closest thing i can find in the book it says that the white wire is a separate 5 amp ac circuit for lighting control so the white probably goes to the lights and the red is what recharges the battery i took the plug off and it was not easy i basically just had to use a razor blade and slice it down the side here there is a special tool to get these out but i don't have it so i just used a razor blade so we know that this wire goes right into this one so that's our connection there so the color i took out of here um had a fuel solenoid on the bottom of the carburetor which gets power from the engine or from the battery and that connection was the red wire with the white stripe so i don't need to use that connection [Music] i can just leave that connection empty and what i see here is these two red wires one of them loops around here and goes right to the lights and since they're connected i'm assuming the other one uh is power as well so um the red wire out of here out of the alternator is going to go to those red wires there actually just run one of those red wires because i'm going to cut one the one that goes to the lights and hook that to the white wire here which once again is the ac power remember red is the dc that goes back to charge the battery and white as near as i can tell is the ac circuit so you can run it right to your lights in other words you're not using battery power to run your lights but the engine does have to be running to turn the lights on i'm going to have to disconnect or at least pull these wires out of here and i just use a needle and you can see the tab down in there and if you can get it you can pull the wire out there we go [Music] and as i said the uh the red wire is going to go into this connection and we'll want to definitely separate the wires here with some some tape and then this white wire we're going to splice right into the the wire that goes to the lighting system so yeah i'm going to open this up here so we can see what we're doing and now you can see what i mean here this wire yeah this wire this is what goes to the lights and if you follow it back you'll see it's red wire down in here that ends up going into the same connection there so we're just going to want to make sure we cut the right red wire which is this one so i'm going to cut it okay and we'll want to cap that wire off the red wire here we'll have to connect this one to this one i'm going to open up this wire protector here so i can get the starter motor cable over the other side because the starter motor is now on the other side but there's plenty of room to reach so i have the starter motor wire now going over to the starter motor which is on the other side of the engine after i started looking into this uh lighting circuit a little bit uh i didn't see any sort of light switch that you turn on and off to turn the lights on and off sometimes the key if you move it to a once it started if you move it back position that'll turn the lights on but that's not the case on this model and i don't see any sort of uh on off switches for lights so i think what was going on was this thing it just always lights up the headlights when you're driving it but i think i'm going to go ahead and put an on off switch on this for the lights and i'm going to take i'm going to use the on off switch from the uh the mower out back that i got this engine off of once again to the junkyard here yeah and uh [Applause] this is the switch i'm going to use looks like it still works and i'm going to cut these wires off down low so i can just reuse the wires so the way this came off uh this white wire was going to match up with this white wire that comes from the alternator and the blue wire is what goes to the lights to power the lights i don't have the wire connectors that i'm looking for the splicer connector so i'm just going to use these [Music] okay that one's secure i need to do this wire too so all right now this is just for testing purposes obviously i'll make a much longer set of wires here just want to confirm that i actually know what i'm doing oh man that's the wrong size that stinks i guess i'm just gonna have to squish these a little bit it's the wrong size connectors but it'll work as long as it's a nice tight fit like that i'm just crimping them a little bit together and then jamming this ah rat farts [Applause] oops i forgot i didn't lock these down all right nice tight fit and like i say this is just going to be for testing so we can test out our lighting circuit i believe all of our wiring is connected and once again you're going to want to uh insulate these wires wrap some tape around them or some heat shrink we have our engine kill wire attached we have our charging dc wire that goes to the battery and we have our uh ac power off the alternator that goes directly to the lights well now that we have things back together i'm kind of curious to see if they'll at least turn over so i have the parking brake set let's give it a little shot here yeah that's what we want i have the fuel line here i'll hook back up actually i'm gonna need to get a new fuel filter this one's this one's dirty and let's see i might want to run it up here just so you can see the uh the fuel filter i like that positioning and it's not a gravity feed system it is a fuel pump so we can do that all right right about there so now we need to worry about the cables uh throttle cable and choke cable this lawnmower only had one cable which when you moved it up here it was in the choke position but now we have to run a choke cable and a throttle cable uh i grabbed this choke cable off the old lawn mower that i took the engine out of and there's plenty of length with it and i'll just have to make a square hole somewhere on the dash and mount this so we have the choke cable taken care of the throttle cable miraculously what i did was i re-routed it through this heat shield instead of on the outside of the heat shield and it barely barely fit as you can see it's a very tight fit but it works see there it is and it's not hitting anything inside of there it's not up against the head or up against any hot components so i think we're going to be good with that rerouting right there i think what we need to do now is get medieval once again and drill a hole so i can get to the [Applause] gas cap all right let's get after it [Applause] it's my tool and this gonna do my best to mark the center point above the gas cap which i think is right about there right about there [Applause] whoa that didn't work [Music] there we go we'll try this again that's going to be tough [Music] nice and slow i guess is the trick [Music] that wasn't too tough i think that'll work [Applause] i'm just gonna smooth it out a little bit [Applause] i want to test this engine out it's been sitting for about a year out back i don't have the choke cable hooked up yet but we can test it out [Applause] [Applause] so as i said this mower has been sitting for about a year so um the fuel in the carburetor may have dried up so we'll probably have to turn it over for a while uh to get fuel to start pumping again into the carburetor we'll keep an eye on the fuel filter here it should tell us if our fuel pump is working when we turn the engine over it should fill up with gas [Applause] see that so that's we know the fuel pump is working and pumping gas to the carburetor and i'll manually put the choke on here we'll have to manually hold the choke on here while we get it fired up for the first time yeah so far so good [Applause] so so i'm just trying to let the smoke clear out a little bit before i come back and start talking oh but anyways um it runs you saw it smoked a lot at first i'm not real alarmed by that because the engine's been sitting for so long but the fact that it was starting to clean up not puff out as much smoke tells me things were good but it wasn't running exactly the way it should i had to use it the choke a lot to get it to stay running so we're going to look into this engine a little further to make sure we have it running in top shape it's probably just been sitting too long i think the first thing i'm going to do is replace these uh crappy auto light spark plugs the reason why i call them crappy auto lights i've had auto light spark plugs fail on me right out of the box so if that doesn't frustrate you i don't know what will yeah it's pretty fouled up spark plugs are in pretty rough shape new ngk which are the best spark plugs on the market in my opinion put the other side on okay so that's the first thing we want to do is replace the spark plugs i guess i should check the condition of the air filter should be in good shape oh not so much shake that thing out so it could use a new air filter but i think this one is should work for now good morning folks from jeff's little engine service so i've been wanting to make this video for a long time what we're going to do today is rebuild a carburetor on the good old briggs and stratton twin cylinder this particular one is a 16 horsepower but they pretty much are all the same as far as the carburetor goes the engine sputters and won't rev up i've tried adjusting the carburetor but it just won't run right i also have to have the choke out about halfway for it to run good so i think it's time to rebuild the carburetor on this thing what you want to do is take off your air filter cover it'd be a good idea to replace this air filter it's pretty dirty so all right so you can see what we're dealing with now is basically um just three bolts you have your breather hose there which you can basically just get put your hand underneath and pull that out so let's go ahead and take those bolts off so this is how we do it in 2017 folks saves on my particle tunnel syndrome i have my wrist and it's much much quicker all right so there is a gasket there be careful not to lose it uh now you're dealing with uh four bolts same size five sixteenths and uh you go ahead and take those off [Applause] at this point it's a good idea to take off the choke cable one two three four man this thing's slick [Applause] all right so be careful not to knock any more crud into the carburetor when you take this part off once you disconnect your cable here you can lift this part right off and we can see what we're dealing with here that actually look at looks like it's in pretty good shape that's a good sign everything's nice and clean what i do notice is uh if you look directly down in here into the float bowl you can see sediment and what not in there there's a lot of stuff in there we need to get out let me switch to the other side here for you now we need to get into uh that bolt there that's your carburetor drain plug there so what you have here is a 5 8 inch drain plug that you want to take out to drain the gas it's a good idea to have a rag there there's also a little o-ring on this plug you want to make sure is in good shape it looks like our o-ring is in pretty good shape you can see the sediment a little bit better now there's chunks of stuff chunks of stuff there and there so we'll clean all that out but what we also need to take out right now is the main jet assembly which is located back in here and that's that brass plug i'm going to adjust my camera so you guys can get a better view so yeah that brass plug back in there is an allen wrench and you want to be really careful taking it out because if you strip it out it's brass so it's really easy to strip out so make sure you have the right size allen wrench as near as i can tell it's a 3 16 so i'm going to make sure i get a good tight fit in there before i try to loosen it oh all right we're good and sometimes you have to stick a screwdriver down in here to push it out to help get it out there you go and you'll want to make sure that this uh main jet is nice and cleared out make sure the hole is clear so now we're going to take the um fuel pump apart and you have to be a little bit careful doing this because parts literally will jump out at you so um be careful i'll show you what to expect when you start taking it apart looks like they're quarter inch or you can use a screwdriver and i'm going to go ahead and disconnect the fuel line just to get it out of the way these are pretty long bolts so there are three i think three springs that you have to keep track of and i try to take it off with the black plastic part first okay oops i forgot to remove the uh the vacuum hose off the bottom here so you want to disconnect that too you'll also want to inspect that hose to make sure there's no cracks in it or anything because that's what operates your fuel pump off of your engine vacuum pressure okay so i have this assembly apart let's take a look see what it looks like here on the inside so this part here is your diaphragm where your fuel your fuel pump diaphragm you can see we have a little copper spring there and we also have this spring here that has a little cap on it uh when you tip it oh that's the telephone don't mind the phone that thing rings all the time i think we're missing one of these copper springs uh so you have these springs like i showed you but we're also supposed to have a spring um right on that post there so i'll have to review the tape to see if that thing came flying out of there when i took it apart or if it was missing that could explain why it wasn't running very well so i guess it that spring was missing but i'll show you how to put it back on when we reassemble once again everything on the inside of the fuel pump looks nice and clean this is the carburetor kit you'll want it's a briggs and stratton part number 694056 you'll see your carburetor mixture screw right there you'll want to take that out and make sure that those passageways are clean under there and i'll show you how to set it to the initial setting when i'm reassembling i'm going to mention on some models the main jet that you pull out of here is considerably longer it's about oh two inches long piece of brass and you'll want to clean out every little orifice and hole in that so luckily this carburetor was not in that bad of shape i didn't have to scrape the gasket surface much and i didn't have to clean out much from the inside i've taken these apart before and it's been a mess taking me a couple hours just to clean out all the gunk and corrosion but luckily this one's in pretty good shape all right so let's take this apart all you have to do is pull this pin out hopefully that's not stuck in place um and you take the float off shake it listen for uh see if there's any gas in there this one's still good still floating here is your float valve that you can investigate if you like um sometimes you can tell when they're bad at the tip other times you can't tell but it's always a good idea to replace it when you get a new carburetor rebuild kit let's see if i can get this gasket off of here um actually before i destroy this gasket i want to match it up from the gaskets in the kit here because that's how many gaskets they give you to choose from apparently there's a lot of different models the same style carburetor but you can see we have quite an assortment so we'll want to match it up dang i think i got it on the first first grab i should buy a lottery ticket so the new float needle comes in a box and be careful because this is as you can see where all your springs are so you don't want to lose those you'll need this clip and there's the valve that little copper spring like there is is one of the springs that is missing in the carburetor so it gives you all the parts in this carburetor kit to basically rebuild the entire carburetor and you attach the float valve just like that the way it came out of there now that we've identified what gasket we need it's time to get this old gasket off of here nice it came off in one piece someone must have rebuilt this carburetor recently and they did a pretty good job except for that one spring that was missing so this is your float needle and this brass piece here is called the needle seat when your carburetor gets in really bad shape you have to replace the needle and seat on this model however you can get away with just replacing the needle 99 of the time you usually only have to replace the seat if the lawnmower has had a lot of use and is about 50 years old so you'll want to clean out the inside the best you can try to make sure there's no sediment or corrosion left floating around in there i usually stick a q-tip down into the seat something soft and clean it out just to make sure there's no particulates down there and you'll also want to make sure that the gasket surface is ready for a new gasket the gasket goes on first make sure you put it in the correct direction some of these gaskets fit kind of stiff so you just have to push it down into place like that now i'm going to go ahead and install the float valve i don't think it matters which way you put the spring on oh god dang mosquito okay okay the float valve is dangling off the float put it in place make sure the clip doesn't come off they give you a new um hinge pin in the kit but you usually don't need it all right so the pin is in place the float can move freely uh you can see the the clip is still where it's supposed to be in place now what do you want to check is you want to make sure that the gap is even so to adjust the float you just want to make sure the gap is the same in front as it is in back when you hold the float upright like this you want to make sure you want to make sure the float when it's in the down position has equal gap all the way around and this one does so i don't need to readjust it so this component is ready to go back onto the rest of the carburetor time to clean this sucker out a bit kind of hard to get any sort of brush down in there but this seems to work pretty good there is a lot of little nooks and crannies you want to make sure to clean out you'll also want to make sure that these tiny little passages ways here there's several holes along here you'll want to make sure that they're clear by sticking a little piece of copper wire or something down through it [Applause] and you really want to make sure to get down in there because that's where a lot of the uh sediment ends up and that's also where your main jet is so make sure all those crevices down in there are cleaned out there was also a little bit of corrosion on the front of the fuel pump here make sure to clean that all up i want a nice good gasket surface all the way around we'll go ahead and put the main jet back in now be careful you don't want to tighten it up too much because it will break or strip just want to make sure it's good and snug and for sure i want to mention that oh pardon me and don't forget to clean out your adjustment screw passage there i poked some wires in there and blew some air in there and looked with a flashlight and i could see it was clear so so we can put that screw back in and set it to its preliminary adjustment so the initial adjustment on the screw here is one and a half turns out so what you do is you screw it in all the way very lightly just screw it in until it light until it stops don't tighten it just right to there and now you back it out one and a half turns half one one and a half so this part is all clean and reassembled so we can go back in place and i'm not going to use that uh drill to tighten these up all the way because i'm always worried that that drill is going to strip things out so i'll use a good old-fashioned socket wrench for that and when you tighten these down as with anything you want to kind of stagger how you tighten it down just semi-tight semi-tight and then i'll go back around and cinch them down you want to cinch them down pretty tight but not so tight that you strip things out remember it is an aluminum carburetor so aluminum pretty soft metal it's easy to strip okay so all right that should be good now we'll work on getting this fuel pump back together that can be kind of tricky [Applause] don't forget the carburetor plug here [Applause] so this gasket goes first like so and then uh looks like it goes like this all right so we have our new gaskets on this part and then we have our new diaphragm here which will install also so here's where it can start to get tricky you have to start balancing all these parts so your first copper spring goes on that little post and of course your big one here big one goes there and we have our little cap and then we have this [Music] now this side you just want to make sure you don't have these springs fall out then this goes together on that side like so and now we just have to install this last little copper spring on the front of the carburetor i think i'm going to jack up the lawn mower to make it easier [Applause] because basically it goes right there we're going to jack it up a bit here to try and help us out while we try and hold all these parts together should make it a little easier you'll want to put this little spring in place hopefully it stays for you [Applause] well here we go try to keep everything in place i will put the screw through the middle hole here just to help hold all the gaskets together like so and now in one movement i'm going to push this up against here try to keep everything in place [Applause] actually i think i'm going to put in i think i'll put in two screws to hold the gasket and the diaphragm in place [Applause] like that so now i have two screws in here all the springs are still in place i think i'll be able to put it up here [Applause] okay very carefully straight on and don't worry if you mess up like i just did just take it off reposition everything and try again try this again i think we got it this time yep and keep pressure so the springs don't fall apart when you're tightening these down just give it a little wiggle hopefully nothing's bound up in there not too tight because you can crack the plastic backing plate there we're almost ready to test this out i inspected the vacuum line it's still in good shape so we'll put him back on and here's our fuel line we'll put back on [Applause] so everything is all hooked up again so remember this carburetor is empty of gas so the fuel pump is going to have to work for a little while before it fills up the carburetor and runs so [Applause] let me go ahead and close the choke [Applause] so all this time the fuel pump is filling up the carburetor yeah runs a lot better so to properly tune this engine the air filter assembly has to be back on there so let's go ahead and put that back together so i should mention uh also that not all of these carburetors uh have that adjustment screw down there some it's a it's a jet so you have to take it out and clean it but uh there's no adjustment you just screw it in tight and call it good so with this one you want to be out about one and a quarter to one and a half turns from um when you screw it in and it stops you back it out one and a half turns or so to find the adjustment um you while the engine is running at a low rpm you uh you turn that screw slightly one way or the other and you can tell that the engine performance improves so um it's just kind of a trial and error thing once you adjust it with the engine running slow then you'll want to rev up the engine and make sure things are still running good and do the same thing with the adjustment while the engine is running at high speed and then go back to low speed and adjust it and you just kind of go back and forth until you find the happy spots well folks that's how you rebuild the carburetor on a briggs and stratton industrial commercial 16 horsepower through i don't know i think they made them through 20 horsepower industrial commercial twin it's a good looking engine a lot better than that crappy color we took out of there and i did test out the light switch and everything seems to be working just fine the lights turned on i just need to extend these wires now and decide where to put the light switch on the dash i think i'll probably put it somewhere around in this area good luck with your project folks

Channel: Jeff's Little Engine Service

Views: 348,471

Keywords: briggs, twin, straten, stratton, stratten, koler, kohler, ohv, intek, courage, wrong, which, way, how, where, whats, problem, work, wont, dont, start, 917., craftsman, model, fix, repair, replace, does, lawnmower, riding, jon, john, deer, deere, poulan, toro, snapper, husqvarna, starter, motor, test, check, rebuild, clean, carb, engine, service, mustie, mustie1, belt, spark, wiring, filter, adjust, valves, oil, on, off, take, put, procedure

Id: _n9__HGz60A

Length: 79min 25sec (4765 seconds)

Published: Thu Sep 23 2021