Riding Mower How We Check Out A Mower For Sale / Diagnose Issues & Fully Repair Briggs & Stratton

hey we're back here this morning with this DT 3000 uh did a video last week about the tires on this thing and getting them back on the bead we got the tire in uh we're going to fix this thing up for selling it now I'm going to show you everything we check out and everything we go over to get this thing uh ready for sale and everything you should look out for if you're buying a riding mower so if you're going to buy a mower you should check these things out also before you buy it obviously first thing is the tires you know or any of them dry rotted or anything like that this one does have some dry rod on it from where it was sitting not sure you can see it a little right there yep we're going to replace this tire with one that is different tread because I have never seen these tires before these are carile Turf Maxes all this thing up and we got a bunch of smoke out of it it took a minute for it to start now that could mean quite a few different things with an engine like this it looks like it has some LED headlights so that's cool so you started it up it starts but it smokes that's something you really want to be wary of if you're buying a used mower and you don't know the status or where it came from you don't know who it came from be very careful of that I'm going to pull these pins out of the front so we can get the hood open and I can show you the next thing to look for now these pins just come out so you can flip the bumper straight down and then the hood comes straight up and off after you unplug the headlights a lot of times these LEDs kind of wreak havoc on an electrical system of these for some reason I haven't seen any that it really worked too well so we might end up putting regular bulbs back in power started it did hesitate pretty good when it went to start on these V Twins A lot of times that's a sign of a valve adjustment or an issue with the cam uh cam shafts on them do fail quite often but if it turned over pretty easily after a minute I would check the electrical see that there that electrical on the positive it's just real loose that's probably why is because of a bad electrical connection is why it started like that real slow it could be an issue also with the selenoid or with the starter check the oil you see any silver in it whatsoever pass oil level on this is good now we paid I think $225 for this the guy was asking I think he maybe was asking 250 or something he said he'd take 2 25 uh good good mower for that kind of price you know we're just going to tune it up and everything and looks like somebody has a new filter in it already what we probably need to do is go ahead and drain the fuel uh and see if that's the issue but if you're buying something at this point you're really taking a gamble with this now we have some oil around down through the bottom side if you are buying this you'll want to check all down around the engine make sure that there are no see it looks like oil down there really one of the most common causes of oil being down in a spot like that is going to be a blown head gasket it's all kind of down in those areas it's kind of on the other side all around also looks like we've got something leaking from there so I'm not really sure exactly where the oil is coming from I guess it could be from the valve cover gasket or something like that just leaking down doesn't look like there's any major seepage down at the sump gasket or anything but it is pretty wet up front yeah this down at the bottom it looks like we've probably got some blown head gaskets just based on the outside and what's going on it could be the valve cover gasket leaking you know down and getting on there we'll do a leak down test to confirm you know if there's a blown head gasket or not that'll be our next step on something like this since we already bought it if it's something you're checking out and you see these same signs I would definitely pass this will tell you you're going to have to do some pretty good work which we knew when we bought it and you know it's just that slower time of the year so we get to it as we can and fix it up and sell it steering seems like it's really loose up top where is all that play coming from we're looking down in here everything's looking really tight looks like that other you look at the steering and it's not tight you want to make sure to see where that's coming from it looks like on this it's coming from the tie rod end most of that play is the rest of it's just normal front end back and forth we'll want to replace that along with those bearings and let's check out the belt for the drivetrain you can look straight at the belt and you can see the quality of it now that I think is a seam Mark that I'm looking at right there other than that everything looks perfect I don't see any cracks or anything in it if you do you'll want to replace that belt you can also put the brake on on and you can spin The Idler pulleys that that belt spins on they sit kind of right below here and there'll be some idler pulleys if you have that brake engaged you can get up under here and feel them right along the belt and you can spin those and make sure they're not making a bunch of noise looks like they're further up here and I don't have that brake locked in but spin them make sure you're not getting a bunch of noise out of your pulley make sure they're not locked up or anything like that as long as they aren't you won't have to worry about it we'll let this deck down next and we'll check it out spindles look like they've seen some better days let's see idler pulley don't sound real good at all and then the belt looks like it has oh no that's not a bad spot the belt actually looks okay thought it had a bad spot there but I don't see feels soft enough looks like the brake here does not have a pad on it anymore looks like that's the same way on both sides oh no the other one does so we'll need the right brake let's see see how the spindles are we're going to need a shoot cuz the shoot's broken here I might have a used one laying around I'd probably go ahead and just put some new blades on that oh that's spindle if you're grabbing your blade and you're moving it up and down you can hear that that's playing the spindle that means the bearings are going bad or the housing's bad you want to replace or repair that if you've got a lot of extra time on your hands go ahead and replace the bearings they're kind of a pain to get off sometimes otherwise just replace the whole spindle assembly they're not going to be too much more we're going to put new spindles we'll put new blades on this new idler pulley basically rebuild the deck I don't think we're going to mess with the belts the belts seem in pretty good shape get this belt or this brake going side shoot going and then we will do a leakdown test to confirm if there is a head gasket issue or not that's the last step once we've verified uh that there either is or isn't we can go from there what we'd like to do I've probably got some other engine sitting here that would work for this should it be a case where this wasn't worth it or that was one side wasn't running now not everybody obviously has a leak down tester that they can use at home if you're doing this and you're doing it out in the field where you're testing this from somebody unplug one cylinder so if you unplug one spark plug you're just running on the opposite side now they should run independently on each cylinder you shouldn't need two cylinders to run if it's not running on one cylinder you know that it's either dead you got a bad uh rod in it it's got push rods that are bent or valves that are stuck or something going on where there's no compression to that side or there's no spark to that side both the both of them get the fuel from the same spot there's that positive in this case we know that the number two cylinder is working the opposite side here going to unplug it on that side if you unplug one of these and they don't work and you're diagnosing it at home you can check your spark you can pull the plug out and you can hold it against the side just with a rag just kind of hold the spark plug and look between the tip of the plug and where you're holding it against the metal at if you visibly See Spark that obviously you know it's working if you don't you know that something's going on with either the kill wire which we have a video on or one of the coils which we also have a video on on a similar engine like [Music] this seems to run pretty good independently on each cylinder I think what we're going to do is we're going to drain the gas right now since it kind of smells like bad gas as we're taking a look at it this fuel line up front I don't know it's kind of brittle I'd really hate to take that off of there some some of the Chinese stuff that they have it's if you use it from some of those carburetor kits or get it online somewhere it's kind of like that we're going to have to take this whole top off and replace this fuel line also even though I don't want to unfortunately sometimes that's just what you have to do look like mostly 38 all around the outside so we've just got a bunch of 38 space bolts all the way around the outside here so we can get that fuel line replaced and then there's 5/16 screws on the top that hold the Shroud on now that you've tested them independently if you're in a sale if you're not getting any smoke they both seem to be R running pretty good on each cylinder independently you've checked all your belts out and everything like that the next thing you'd want to do is go ahead and take it for a drive see how the how the hydrostat transmission responds when you go from forward to reverse and make sudden changes if it's slow to respond or you get a bunch of whining or anything out of it you'll want to just note that because that probably means that that uh transmission is towards the middle to the end of its life depending on how long it takes and how bad it is right that off 516 the top just come off like such and then the whole top pull straight up oh I missed one on the other side last one whole top pulls up and off unfortunately to get to this front you have to take the majority of that off to begin with that's okay though because if we get this fuel line replaced I'm going to replace it from here and then I'm also going to replace it to the fuel filter down on the inside where the head meets I don't really see anywhere that it's yes I do if we look down in here you can see pretty easily along the head in between the head and the block we can see permex there's a permex right down in there all the way down in you can see that Permatex so somebody's had these heads off before and done a Dandy on them is what it seems like of buildup down in there let's do the leak down test see exactly where we're at again if the transmission winds or anything like that that'll be a situation where you'd want to pass also other than that you know really the situation with the deck if the spindles and stuff are bad as long as you're handy and have some tools available that's not too bad to do either now this thing here again we would have seen that oil in probably pass to begin with we saw it and it's one of those things where you take the gamble on it you know for that kind of price this is a mower that you stand to make a lot of money on if you can get it running right and we have other parts and things like that around that it shouldn't be any issue to get this going we got the one fuel line replac now to drain this if you do not have we've got like an electric fuel pump we'll basically pull it off on this side of the fuel filter since I think this is a newer fuel filter um we'll pull this off and we'll go ahead and suck the fuel from the tank from there and drain it completely dry and flush it all the way out uh and then this fuel line will be replaced and we'll drain that filter also to make sure that we know that the fuel in it is good and see how it runs from that point cuz it was running pretty crummy originally if you have this mower running and you're getting ready to buy it and you check the oil and you see smoke coming out of the dipstick hole if you're looking down in that's a Telltale sign of a blown head gasket if it's blown internally instead of towards the outside so be aware of that know that when you go to buy one of these if you don't have this you can let the fuel pump pump out your fuel from here so if this is hooked up it's got to be in the valve cover so it can get the pulse as long as your pulse line is hooked up you take the outlet line here off and you can put it into a different line and just drain it down into a bucket once it's going down lower than the tank most of the time you will not have to worry at all it'll continue to flow until it's completely out or close to it very bad fuel line it goes from here goes up over and then it drops down through the frame comes to here and then it comes down on the back side kind of like right here and then drops down underneath the frame basically about right here right before it comes just right on the inside drops down through and then it rides all the way along the rail right along the inside of that rail kind of right here on the opposite side you can see it right through that hole that's it on the other side and it goes straight up to a 90° in the bottom of the tank now I blown through this tried to get everything dried out it's not quite dry yet we'll let it dry for a little bit while we do this leak down test and we'll replace all that fuel line going up through to make sure that none of that breaks off clogs up and they don't have any issues with it once we sell it to do a leakdown test on this we'll want to take the spark plugs out first it does look like this w is a little bit chewed but it's not to the wire really what we'll probably do is replace it with either a new one or a used one we have plug out and this just makes the engine easy to turn over by hand for us you can take the valve cover off if you'd like and we can watch the valves uh to to use a leakdown tester we're going to want to be top dead center so basically that what that means is on the compression stroke when your Piston's coming up when it gets all the way to the top that's where you want to test this at show you exactly what I'm saying both of the valves will be closed when it's at the top of the compression stroke those are just four 3/8 head bolts so as we're coming up here that is not completely open that is not the compression stroke it's still open as we go back around your intake valve is going in it's coming back out your piston is going to be coming up at that point so it's coming back up and as soon as it gets to the top that's where you're going to want to be that's the top dead center of the compression stroke because Vol both valves are completely closed and the Piston is all the way at the top of its travel now you can kind of rock this back and forth and figure out exactly where top is especially without those spark plugs in it's very easy to do but if you're turning clockwise from the top it'll be right there and if you notice your magnet if you've got the top off here it's right as it comes to spark cuz your your piston is coming up Fuel and air is rushing into the cylinder you get that spark and that's what drives that piston back down in order to give you power and combustion all right so top right there top dead center and we're going to use a OTC 5609 leak tester kit now it's showing you exactly what your PSI reading should be uh depending on what they are usually they say 5 to 10% at the very most as far as loss goes and we'll go up to right about 100 PSI as far as the pressure goes and this comes with adapters and everything like that if you need them the the original one on here works for what we need it for going to screw that into the spark plug hole again there's a bunch of adapters if you got this one a lot of times you can rent something like this from an auto parts store if you don't have something handy we're just going to hand tighten that it doesn't have to be super tight and we're going to all right compressor is still going but it might go off anyway let's give it slowly give it some pressure you don't want to go too fast cuz it can actually spin the engine slowly go up we're at 35 and we're at about 34 so this is the output pressure and this is the input pressure you don't want more than 10% difference from the input pressure to the output pressure as you're going up at top top dead center if you have that you know you've got something going on or something leaking you should also not be able to hear any air escaping anywhere if you can that means there an there's an issue let's go up to right here almost to 100 lb and we're at I'd say right about I don't know 90 2 4 6 about 98 as far as what I hear some leakage somewhere let turn this compressor off real quick and see now we're hearing some leakage coming from somewhere and it's not from here it's not from the spark plug hole so we're not getting a lot of loss of pressure I suspect that it's leaking to the outside somewhere it's hard to tell right now I'm just going to spray some simple green on it see if we can get any bubbling from anywhere on the [Music] outside not sure exactly where it's leaking at at this point definitely not losing a lot but again I'm not really sure where it's leaking from I don't see anything to the outside the oh there it is okay so that's just back into the crank case where I'm hearing that leaking from and that's not a that's not enough for us to be concerned as far as loss it goes through the piston and cylinder so that's all that's escaping through the Rings is about 2% that's pretty darn good let's go to the other other side and do the same thing so what we were hearing is that actually coming back through here if I had to guess and I was thinking it was coming from the outside of the head that we needed to replace that head gasket or something H it's interesting I don't know if that just fell down in there or if someone's had it open it came open pretty came open and off pretty easily do exactly the same thing and rotate this around while checking and seeing where top dead center is so the Piston's coming back up your intake valves closing everything is good to go now if we were on the opposite stroke we'd be coming up and right as we're at the top the intake valve would still be open that's not correct it's got to be on the compression stroke which is when it comes up and both valves are closed all the way at that very top again rock it back and forth figure out exactly where that top dead center is both of those valves are oh see how it turned my engine there easy enough if you lose this if you lose your top dead center it's easy enough to mark on the flywheel back to the block where exactly your top dead center is and you can do that with just a marker or anything that you want really that way you don't have to refine your top dead center if you lose it coming all the way up right there top dead center perfect then should be pretty well perfect and that's really with the magnet you see it comes it's about it's still coming up right now and your spark comes and then that's when it starts to come back down it's kind of right after that so the magnet sits just shortly after and again both of those valves you should be able to just wiggle these if you can't and you know you're not at top dead center of the compression stroke okay this time I'm going to do it a little bit slower let me try to it it does get dangerous if this pops off on you and this takes off you don't want your hands anywhere close to this so be careful there we're at 30 lb and it looks like 30 25 on the so we're at 35 and it looks like about 33 on the meter let's keep going again real slow so it doesn't just take off on us we're at about 50 here and we' we've lost a little bit 65 and it looks like we only have about 60 on the output up to 80 lb and it looks like we have about 76 or so so we're at 100 lb and we're at about 9246 so we're losing about 4% and again I think that's just through the Rings that's not a bad reading on this cylinder either the other one is a little strong ER but you can check around the outside with simple green also and see if you get those bubbles if you get any bubbles in between the head and the block from this while it's pressurized that instantly tells you that you've got a blown head gasket to the outside real quick easy test cuz that air will actually be escaping all the way to the outside I'm not seeing anything like that here that's just escaping back down in even though there's oil over here so if I had to guess that's because of these gaskets as opposed to what I was thinking with the head gasket we've got everything else on order I went ahead and pulled the fuel line grommet and elbow out of the tank it sat right up in there and I just pulled straight down now we're going to replace the grommet we'll put that back into the tank first and then put that nipple back and then we'll put fuel line on it and we're going to use a 07- 392 fuel tank bushing and then we're also going to replace the rocker cover gaskets these actually just came in perfect timing 690 971 and then we're going to adjust the valves while we've got this off now to do that you want to be on that same compression stroke and you want to be a quarter inch past top dead center and what that does for you as that makes sure that when the Piston goes back in at least a/4 of an inch it makes sure that the compression release is not engaged approximately right there we'd adjust both valves at that these are going to be 04 to 006 in as far as the Valve gap goes to do this this is a t40 and you'll need a half an inch and it's actually a 13 mm not a half2 in now if you didn't understand what I just said about the top dead center this Piston's coming up on the compression stroke coming straight up out it's at the top right right here now when that goes back down in a/4 of an inch that's where you want to adjust at actually don't think I was quite far enough to begin with we're in a good spot right where we are go to the intake first and crack that open we're going to move our star all the way in until it's where we want it to be then we're going to set from there so we'll set the nut we'll hold the star where it's supposed to be as we're as we're tightening the nut down against the set all right that is perfect now we do the exhaust valve I want to tighten that just a little bit more sometimes you have to adjust them a bit after you've set them it's not always going to be set on the first time that's perfect a lot of times honestly my free hand does a lot better than the rest now this has to be torqued to 100 uh inch pounds check that those are tight they will back off over time and you'd want to do that actually before you set the valves I've already checked that on both sides got the cover and the spark plug back on the other side put this cover back on [Music] okay see what size fuel line we [Music] need just kind of a smaller piece to go to here get this hose clamped back on this other one here in a little bit for now we'll hook it up I got a couple gallons of good fuel in it we'll choke it and see what [Music] happens oh looks like they got the throttle set way too fast on high so we'll have to turn that down some and wait for the rest of the parts at least we can drive this thing around now and it's starting to sound good we got the parts in to get the rest of this taken care of the only thing I didn't order was uh the rotary coil I'm not really sure where this came from it's a 11578 it was sitting on the shelf so I'm going to use it instead of this one that has chew marks all out of it or instead of ordering another one just took the boot off even OEM coils don't come with a new boot for some reason we'll take the kill wire off just pull it straight out and then two 5/16 bolts holding it on clean up the magnet if you'd like get it nice and shiny it's not going to affect your electromagnetic field but may make you feel better about it and also clean up your studs where it's going to mount these will be marked whether it's an oem or an aftermarket it should always say this side out or cylinder side on one side this one looks a little bit different again I'm not sure where it came from but the part numbers match I don't normally use aftermarket coils on anything rotary has over the years improved a lot though I have been happy with a lot of their parts hopefully this one doesn't let me down just throw a business card in there in between the magnet and the coil as we come around I'm going to line it up exactly in the middle cuz this one it's kind of hard it doesn't overlap on each side very well to be able to space it we've got that in there kill hooked up as far as tightening these I'm going to use a hand wrench to tighten them down as opposed to the impact you don't want to overtighten them they're pretty small bolt sizes take the business card out you can spin it around you want to make sure the magnet is not hitting if it's hitting at all that's not right it should not be rubbing or anything like that if it is take it back off and respace it throw this on here and we will make sure that we are getting good spark and that everything is working well before we put the top back on it's blinking high right there but we know we were getting good spark because it was running good let me plug the other one back in and make sure it's running good again it's still kind of high as far as the RPM goes okay all that's hooked up everything is working good we are going to address the issue with the speed of the mower next I will take this front off it looks like just half inch maybe maybe 14 mm here no it's a half in just taking this off to kind of get a little better access and a little better view for us the problem it looks like to me is that whoever messed with it before tried to right here there's an arm and that's what the spring for the throttle connects to what they tried to do is they tried to bend this out there's a bunch of marks right on this piece and you can tell the whole assembly has been bent out this way which puts more pressure onto the the spring we're just going to take a regular Old Phillips see if I can't pry from the side and get it bent back okay there we go very technical muffers just kind of hanging there but that's okay if it falls off it may get loud but still test the [Music] RPM it's running pretty good that kill is kind of acting a little bit weird when I turn the ignition off it doesn't seem like it wants to kill right away it's kind of strange I'm going to wait for this it might might be able to grab on those bolt yeah just going to wait for the muffler to cool but it looks like it can just barely grab on as well tighten them back up while we can yeah it was running way fast just bending that tab back there got it basically perfect I'll double check it by the end if there's anything you know if it's off at all by the time we're all done with everything I can readjust it pretty easily you know even from right here and this just kind of slides down in these slots they line up at the front if you don't line those up nothing else is going to follow a few different pens starting with a couple on the front the same on each side just take a pair of needle nose take each one off one back over here I think that one's hard to see yeah just pull straight out out and that's just for the crossmember support it pushes straight off towards the back and you've got one here for the lift pulls out and then this bracket pulls off to the side that holds the support so you have to lift it up to take the tension off of it this is also your adjustment for the deck if you're going right to left if you want to adjust it if you bring this up that brings this side of the deck up and that's on the back side for the front side if you need it a little bit higher there's an adjustment in the front where you would adjust those set of nuts we can take the belt off just slides kind of off towards the front and then we just have there's one right here see if I can get a little bit better light should be a little better or not there's a cotter pin or a pin either way that holds the cable on top this one's kind of kind of a pain because it is a cotter pin probably put a regular pen in it just going to take it straight out though and then there's a washer on top but this washer should actually be on the bottom there okay just straight pulls out and that comes right off get it out of the way we just have that one other one on that side or the two holding it on and then we'll pull the whole thing out we jacked the mower up just a little a little bit to get it high enough to slide this out if you don't have a Jack or if it's sitting down and you can't get it off the ground you'll want to lower these wheels basically pull them to the highest spot up to allow you enough room to drag it out still quite difficult if you do it that way we've got it just slightly jacked up and that allows us to pull the whole thing out pretty easy there 7/8 for the top get it right out sometimes they don't like to come out right away you'll have to hit them with the hammer if they don't now we got new pulleys and everything El so I'm not worried about damaging them if you didn't probably don't want to hit it with the Hammer's on the other side this over here has a cover on the other side before you can get to the spindle assembly and it's got T30 slots on the inside now those are 38 bolt uh heads if you want to try that a lot of times they are so rusted out that the 3/8 won't work that you've almost got to use the torqu in order to get them out and again that's a T30 there's three of them the other one's still stuck in there take the spring off off of both sides just relieves the tension from the brakes put those just off to the side for now and then we need half inch or 13 mm take these and remove the spindles on each one I like to do one spindle in one brake set at a time since we're doing the brakes sometimes those have good grooves in them like real bad notches and stuff if they do you want to replace that bushing piece this is a brake it should spin here and then there's a washer that sits directly under it you will clean that up well also you can clean the washer real good just make sure there's not a bunch of rust up under there that one looks great actually we'll Lube it real good make sure that that sits there well when we get it back together grab the new [Music] one pay attention to where this goes nine times out of 10 your bolts holding the spindles on will break off depends on how bad they are obviously those did okay when you pull this off there is a piece up underneath that sits in between the spindle and the deck so you want to keep that the way it is or at least I like to just put it right back on exactly how it was can see the blade assembly and everything we're replacing all this so we don't care we're just going to toss it to the side and grab the new one replacement this one comes pre-threaded if yours doesn't have threads on the inside you may have to thread it yourself it's always a possibility depending on where you're buying these spindle assemblies from together just like such not going to put the blades on right now because I'll flip it upside down and check the actual blade balance once we're done with everything to make sure everything is in line where it should be we will want to make sure this is in there like it was last time before we're tightened down I don't think I got to believe it was like that yeah okay one started so it's all pulled up tight make sure your spacer is up under here also new pulley for the top size it up make sure the other one is the same size good to go it's a little wobble there for what I usually like not going to hurt anything when we grab our new pieces for the brake I like to grab and just cuz they're kind of painted on there you want them to be free this bushing around the outside it's like to grab it and just kind of free it up that way it actually spins like it should you can put some lube on there just keeps it moving freely on where it goes make sure it goes inside that bushing and then it is free so when this engages it should come back as it do we'll put that spring back here shortly work on the other side first half inch again for the brake it's in good shape kind of rusty up underneath and on the washer a little bit make sure that's cleaned up well that way that brake operates properly if not it'll get stuck same thing with washer I don't prefer to my hands all chewed up not bad though feeling pretty good the other side's got some rust on it get that all cleaned off make sure it's nice and smooth when it goes back on there same thing here free it [Music] up that only that one only two out of three broke this came off away I don't know where it went back on but honestly doesn't really matter there's no dimples or anything that match up sometimes they just get into kind of a little dent in one area or the other and they'll stay up on there tighter if you put them back exactly where they came from is the only reason I mentioned that before [Music] pretty good underneath three start the third all set for that one for the brakes I'm going to actually leave this off for the time being because I see another issue as I'm looking it is a not an uncommon issue see it quite a bit take this spring off for the return for the time being so it can free float that just pulls back and off and that's for The Idler return so your brake comes back seems a little bit a little bit stiff so we'll take this apart and we'll clean all that up and lube it up get all the rust off of it over on the swing arm the issue I see though is right here on this arm there's a notch that's sitting that allows The Idler to get caught on the brake because that's where the brake rides for this side and then it will not turn off the brake will not be able to come back when that's the case the best way to take care of this is to grind this down at an angle back to where it should be [Applause] w now you can replace that whole swing arm if you'd like that'll also solve the problem it works well I'm just trying to get the little burrs off the top and the bottom nice and even all the way now instead of having a notch that you could feel right here that's all gone perfect for the fact it's about to fall off the table it's all set pull the 14 out and we're going to first get the Ider off this is the one we're replacing it was in real bad shape got a washer stuck to the top I was going to use for the other one and this needed to go a little bit closer so I'm going to bend it just a tiny bit so it sits closer to this when it goes on there got a replacement for it all these part numbers are in the description if you take this off in order to fix these bushings you will want to make sure it goes back exactly how it came apart cuz this can go as we remove it this could go back down on there several different ways it does not have to stop in the same spot well it's up again against basically the bracket on the right hand side keep everything the way it went and you won't have a hard time putting it back on whole assembly and everything actually comes up and out we're replacing this belt we'll take it off see how much rust is in there how much rust is up underneath that's what was keeping this thing from coming back easily that's quite a bit of surface rust but nothing that can't be fixed [Laughter] the cleaner you get this the easier it's going to move it kind of looks like a there but I don't feel it as much I think we're good we got this whole same thing if I has real bad rust around the inside you'll take some flexible sandpaper and get it in there because you want this to roll smoothly especially along here with all that rust it's not going to roll smoothly there at all be careful when you're working with things close to your hands obviously I work with a lot real close and never really have any issues but you can never be too safe looks good the top doesn't really matter get this one switched out looks like both of those keepers are in pretty good spots so I'm not really going to pay too close of attention to him if you don't get that washer on there A lot of times you'll run into an issue where the nut will actually be small enough to where the pulley can work its way up and off we've seen that happen quite a few times when customers have brought them in and tried to do them themselves moving in there real nice and smooth with this up underneath see exactly how smooth this all goes back together with some shots of penetrating grease and of all over everything keep it nice and loed up probably add a bunch more in between and everywhere else it goes on a real thin and then it turns real thick after just a short period trying to think here how all this Jaz went back together it went just like that okay doesn't take long to forget exactly how these went sometimes it's looking good roll smooth and again we'll tighten that down right against where it was Sameer up this down in along with our other one you know what I think that's backwards this supposed to be supposed to be this one got them backwards on [Music] us see where my n went there it is and this I actually bent just a hair too far bend it back make sure both spin perfectly fine on their own we can put pulley on the front this other spindle that we didn't finish it is that one's is quite a bit truer everything's free like that I'm going to tighten this one up just a h more that other socket didn't work well on here it almost seemed like it wanted to spin I think I've got a 23 on it now is what I have on it and put the return back in here it should all return very nice and easily smoothly it is work working well when you have all these cleaned up you can put your new washer down new brake on this side in install it [Music] still free and again that piece up underneath we want some lube on on both sides and then we want some lube on The Middle on both sides and then all around those moving Parts keep you nice and greased up couple of these Springs closer inspection on this side tells us that this bracket is on wrong installed it in the wrong spot because if we try to put this spring on from here to there it's not tight enough these can go on a few different ways I think it just needed to be rotated just like [Music] such that was the one I kind of dropped when it was coming off and didn't pay much attention to Guess That's supposed to be a lock nut or something it just doesn't go on real terribly smooth thing spins freely we can put our belt on real quick and then we can put the screws back in for our assembly last spring now the spring has good tension on it over here where it's supposed to new husa built wrap these all through like they should be each side good I'm not too terribly worried right this second about cleaning the deck well because we power wash it all off afterwards get it 100% cleaned up this deck does look like it's got a little a little surface rust to it but nothing too terribly bad that I'm worried about everything as far as the brakes go it's the brake is coming off on both sides when you engage it so it's away from the pulley and then when you let off it's coming back and then it stops it from turning both of those are working properly and our engagement is working properly it is good to go the deck is good to go except for the side shoe many times I will take a just take a pair of pliers for the little keeper on the end cuz it just comes and Pops straight up to put that back on there A lot of times you can just barely lightly tap on the back and then you can just push it right back on and it's a keeper just like it was to get this installed it's pretty easily take it off just like it is and you install it on here just like it was spring towards the back and line it all up once it's lined up and pushed down in where it's supposed to be this will go straight through the hole and watch on the side watching here and it's wanting to take off on me exactly there it goes I'm just lining up the bracket and everything and pushing it on in now it's back on the inside it's barely going to hit this real lightly with the hammer one time all right right Keeper's on there it's not going to let it come off side shoot Works want to get as much of this off as you can otherwise it'll gather moisture that moisture sits on That Metal and it just rusts out just better to be nice and free no grass it's why it's better not to mow your wet grass if you're mowing your wet grass this is what's happening up on underneath almost [Music] always a lot of stuff up under there even though it didn't look like that much see what these blades look like like got a 42 [Music] in those are them on the other side looks like we're going to line up well also there are two different sides to the washer it's kind of cued you want the part that's higher towards the nut you want the part that's cued towards the blade just going to hold it on there some people install those wrong if they come like that want to make sure these line up perfectly the back side of each of these as we spin it around is perfectly lined up with the other that means it's going to cut well it's going to be even because the outside edges of those are at the right spots if they don't match up you probably got an issue where the decks kind of mangled one way or the other you can also check at the outside edge if you hold your finger here so that one comes exactly to where the other one is same thing here you hold your finger right to the edge when the other one comes around it should be exactly at your fingertip like the last one was and this is as I put the deck back on I usually like to go ahead and pull the engagement over first makes it a little easier some reason I was thinking that went on top but it does go on the bottom that will work can go here I was going to use just a regular pen but it looks like this Cotter pen is going to be just fine to reinstall you can pull it to the back where you get this back one all hooked up before you go any further once it's back up underneath then we can start to lower the deck back down once it's into position make sure this bracket is over this way if it's not you'll have to take the deck back off or take the bracket off in order to get it set up front hanger bracket start with those okay get my side one side in and then I got my back one right here get in and slip my belt on it does kind of hinder your ability to line things up if it has pressure under it though so do pay close attention to that a couple more on the other side all right one in and one in if we watch down below take that sticker off that pulley not that it's really going to make much of a difference if any difference if we Engage The Deck you can see both Brakes come off and the belt gets completely tight that's how it should be should have tension against it all the way through and nothing should be rubbing if there's anything close to rubbing or anything rubbing you want to address it before you put this into service everything here with the deck looks good all we've got left is just the bearings and the drag link move the wheel again to get these bearings out I like to start on the side that has the Greaser and empty them down through and I'm just kind of got it at an angle to catch the lip you sit in here like this so this is sitting at the bottom but it's sitting just like this catch the lip around the outside and just beat it down through that one's out flip it around do the same thing to the other side you just want to make sure you don't get along where this flat side is and ruin where your G Circ is out clean those clean all that grease out just everything bad inside all the old grease pull it on out put some new stuff in when we're all done where the grease C is it goes right straight the flat part goes towards that what I like to do is grab a big hammer that's flat and I like to hit it with another one straight bed on works pretty well this one I usually like to put the same way although on the opposite side it doesn't matter as long as you hit it level it'll go down on there nice and smooth perfect now the bearings are replaced and they're in there correct we can put them back on I think I'll actually leave it off right this second while we do the drag length looks like it's a/ inch on top 9/16 on the bottom now didn't feel so hot this sits just like such so it has another one that goes straight up in so we have to also remove the nut from that and we'll hold on to the lock washer also cuz we'll reuse the nut in the lock washer on this side I'm going to turn until it's closest to me so I can access it through here and actually straight up through I can get down in there with a socket guess it's all the way off sure where the went guess it and the lock washer just sitting right on top what it appears put our new one up in there oops new one goes just like such straight up in then you put your lock washer and your nut on the opposite side not on the same side like it was on that other [Music] one tightened up on that side other side get this in our lock nut our lock washer and our nut anyway might just Jack this up a little bit more so I have room tighten it down here going to put our one on there that fills all the Gap looks like these were maybe a little bit wider or didn't go in quite as far and then we will put our cap over it we do the same thing to the other side and then we will make sure this deck is level and we'll take this thing for a cruise as far as the deck level goes we spoke about it previously how there's adjustments in the front got adjustments here if you need to bring the front up you'll loosen the back nut and then you'll will bring the forward nut back in order to bring the deck up in the front if that's where you need to bring it up in the back there's those adjustments that are 9/16 volts that are right here 916 nuts I'm sorry and those will allow you to raise the deck from side to side if it's off one way or another now I the first thing you want to do is make sure that the tires are aired up before you're going to level the deck battery terminals were one thing that were not tight whatsoever we're going to replace these with new bolts it's no real good way to get a a good tightening out of a flathead bolt and a regular nut take negative always off first positive off second and we're going to use qu 20 stainless steel bolts washers and lock nuts to replace these looks like I came one lock nut short I'm going grab a grab a positive cover for that also there's a battery tray cover that goes in to hold this down also which is kind of normal on these mowers and I think I have a used one somewhere I can replace it with seems like it just keeps going on and on doesn't it no matter what you get to the next step and you need something else we're pretty well finished here though something to hold the battery down either that cover or we'll just do some sort of bungee strap or metal strap wrap to make sure that that doesn't slide anywhere and stays where it's supposed to let's get some greasing done these front axles honestly and the inside of the tires are the only places on these that have anything that is greasable okay [Music] [Music] everything now runs well on this everything works good like it should put the hood back on all this thing needs is just power washed up and sprayed down and then it can go out for sale just goes to show you how much work there actually is that goes into some stuff like this when you get into Old tractors and how it can just just keep going and going and going no matter where you think it's going to end hopefully this helped you in some way shape or form to get your mower back into working action or teach you something thanks for watching like And subscribe now we can take the boot off just by taking the taking the pair of pliers and kind of yanking on it that one's kind of stiff so I'm going to get a torch things should be plenty toasty now e equp comes off looks like we've got three washers on this one normally it only has one or two now before we take this off this is something when where if you have a jack when you're going to look at a mower go ahead and jack it up and grab a hold of this tire and see if you can wiggle it side to side like this see that play side to side how it's wiggling on that shaft you can hear it too that means that the bearings on the inside of that tire are worn out these don't actually have balls or anything in them it's not a ball bearing they wear out pretty quick I like to put new bearings in them if there's any kind of play whatsoever we'll do that that switch the tire out first I don't believe I have bearings for it but that's okay I wanted to get that tire done that way we can move it around nice and easy before we get it up on the table Tire we're using looks like Deli tire tread is as close as I could get what we do before we install a tire is we'll go ahead and install a rim on the inside of it overnight make sure that it all pops out the bead pops out if not you can use a strap around the outside you can use a bead black F or anything else to get these sealed to the bead so right now it's nice and nice and filled out eventually we'll take that valve stem out once we unmount this other Tire break the bead now if you don't have a bead breaker or a tire machine or some way to do this you can buy a portable one if you'd like but otherwise it's very hard to do this this it can be done with just a tire iron but it's much more difficult now this you just push down and be break the bead do that to both sides it's very easy to do little sides are off we always do it with the valve stem side up wherever the hole for that is it's a lot easier that way just getting this tightened up against this Rim we're going to spray it down with some Simple Green get some good Lube [Music] going then we're going to take our tire bar here and we're just going to throw it up under the other Underside and turn against that middle piece uh tire iron works the same way just up underneath and and over and around again you can do this with a with a vice holding something like this um as long as you have a tire iron you know it is definitely possible but this you've got to be able to hold the rim in place with something which is the hard part just to spin hold it just work it around takes it right off and do the same thing with the other side now you can spray that bottom side also usually it has enough Lube on it that it'll just pop off see how the lube got down onto the bottom also this thing is extremely clean it seems like so far A lot of times you get them open and there's rust or a bunch of buildup of stuff around them this thing feels pretty well spotless around where the bead is take our valve stem out now now if this has a bunch of sealant or if this has a bunch of rust or anything like that around it you want to take a wire brush to it we have you know something like this it'll go on your drill and it just run it all along get that all cleaned up you know you don't want that that rubber along that inner bead either if it's along right in here where the bead seals it's going to keep it from sealing properly the cleaner the better get that finished up new valve stem in pull it through all set now there is still a little bit of some residue around the outside that's further outside the bead than where I'm worried about all along the bead is perfect where it seals take the valve core out of the tube now when we install this tire the bead is already kind of to the outside it's already helped us to get this thing going going to spray it down and you don't need a special kind of lubricant some people will tell you you do you don't need a bead sealer as long as everything's 100% clear and clean it's it's not going to matter it's going to seat get some good grease on it though we use the bead Buster bunch of people have told me there's stuff out there that's a lot better and a lot cheaper going to try some different stuff next time we use this all around and it does seem to help Pop That bead make everything seal a little bit easier as long as you have some lube it's good to go you don't want to uh you don't want to rip the bead or anything as you're putting it on should just kind of push on should be really easy on the top one I like to use the Tire Tool again on that bottom one should just lock right on for you Tire tool just take and hold and then once you get to there if you're having issues push this down further so you get more of the bead down out of that area and it'll come right straight [Music] around looks like I hit the hit the valve stem a little bit a lot of times with this method and with us already having the spead kind of set back to the outside it'll just air up without even having to remove the valve core or [Music] anything there went both sides we're at 16 I'm going to go just a little bit further you can go up to twice what they're rated for in order to seat the bead if it won't air up immediately like that what you can do is you you can use the strap method uh that we show in another video I like to leave them about 14.2 14.3 and then when I check them the next day if there's anything under 14 after everything settles we'll throw it in the water and see if we see any bubbles spray them down anything with some soap content to it all around the bead see if you see any bubbles forming [Music] there if there's leaking you'll see some bubbles forming pretty good you can also go around the valve stem and around the valve core the bubbles will be pretty big or you'll see them actively flowing if there's leaking sometimes there's really slow leaks that you won't see right away but the majority of stuff can be completely taken care of just like that now some people were asking why I did not tube this tire when I'm selling stuff and it's got dry red tires on it I don't feel good about it I don't like to sell them that way that's why we're not going to tube it we didn't tube it didn't really talk about tubing it much around here there's a lot of locust trees we see and people like their tires to either be you know good aired up how they are or a solid Tire we do those occasionally also make sure that there is a washer behind it make sure that washer didn't fly off and the part with the valve stem goes out especially on these Craftsman we got our three washers and then our clip now normally I'd wipe this all down real good we're going to have this all back that all back off here shortly to replace those bearings I'm just getting this on here in order to be able to move this thing around

Channel: Individualized Repair Inc

Views: 35,508

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Id: OgzmEyoDueM

Length: 103min 56sec (6236 seconds)

Published: Wed Feb 07 2024