Cobb Accesstuner, lets get to tuning. Step 1.

as kids are talking about actually tuning your car so you just purchase some parts cob Perrin many of those companies out there and you've installed them on your car because you want to do it yourself and you want to start doing the tuning yourself so the parts are installed you're all done you cleaned up from all that grease eNOS and you're ready to actually start using the car and using these parts so the point of this video here is to go over those first steps you know the cop stage to tune was good enough even with the parts even stalled or you're just gonna go straight to the pro tune or your tune in this case and you wanna you want to hit that next level of what the performance can do without really having to add that many part so I'm talking stage 2 stuffing in this case right now always the basic minimum parts the intake the down pipe the exhaust maybe an up pipe something like that these basic parts we're really gonna start opening the car up for the fun driving so we're I'm gonna go ahead and uh get access to Naropa and we'll get started alright so you can see me look to the right a little bit and that's my other screen I have over here kinda have some notes to kind of follow how I want to talk about this cuz there's definitely a lot to cover and I want to keep things kind of in order so that I don't over talk things or I don't miss something so the first few things that we're gonna actually talk about is basically understanding what you're looking for in your car so the first thing I want I want to look at is your primary open-loop fueling so in this case this is going to be the cop Stage two this is what they have set now I pretty much just filed this myself I've made some adjustments here in there but we'll worry about what I've made adjustments to later and state that this is a pretty decent following for for as far as you're fueling targets go you if you wanted to say enriching it a little bit here just to be safe with your car if it's hot outside or you know you just want to be extra protected you can add you can remove the fuel I add a little bit if you were there if you really needed to but just remember that when you look at this just because you put this number 1107 at 2.25 load and 1600 p.m. the car is not gonna change because you change this number this is just what the car wants to target in this case so that you can go back and look at your logs and see did you hit this target not you can make that adjustment so just that's something to keep in mind that these numbers are just like a scale that you're looking at and you're trying to hit that number based on other factors so that's the first thing I wanted to make sure that we talked about the next thing that we'll go into and it's a load so I won't touch it right now because I want to go in a little more detail but you need to worry about you calculated load and you need to adjust this based on what your car is doing what I would state is a good starting point and again don't quote me on this a lot of professional reading but a good starting point would be to scale this up to 3.0 that at least with the basic intake in an exhaust and down pipe you should be hitting somewhere in there at your peak peak moments 2.75 you're definitely going to blow past that and at least hit 2.8 2.9 so we'll go into more detail on that so those let's go with some examples as far as what are you going to change first what is the first thing you're gonna do well let's make sure that you're starting on a clean point so you've added the parts to your car like the parts that Cobb recommends for this stage - if that's the case then we'll file the stage too - if you haven't and you're starting from a stock map because you're adding your own parts in or you necessarily don't have an air intake that follows Cobbs rules in this case you're going to start with the stock map and you're probably going to want to start with a stock intake and any other stock parts that you you've changed we you know as far as the air incoming goes because you want to get a good math reading so that everything reads properly so that's just a cavity that in there most of you probably starting from some kind of table stage to two so the first thing we're gonna look at here is as far as starting off we need to make some adjustments to the map something to change the way that the car is going to react when certain situations happen because we're no longer following what Subaru is recommended because you've changed the parts so the first thing you want to do is change the damn reset and that is basically whenever you use the access tuner the access port to reset the ECU or you let the battery set unplugged for ten plus minutes or so or however long it takes to reset it when you actually go to turn the car back on and ECU has been reset through the learner or the stock parameters in this case you want to have the car start somewhere so Subaru actually starts you're damned if you're using a 32-bit ECU or like a 2004 STI or newer STI version then in this case you're gonna have a one damn to be your your cars running perfect so they have that now it's kind of recommended some people say you should bump this up to a point eight and then drive a little bit and the car will bump up to one me personally when I get in the car I want that car running exactly peak performance I don't gas the car as soon as I reset the ECU obviously put the car warm up and do its thing I Drive about five five miles or so and then at that point the car should be good and not jump in but I don't want the car to to have to make any or more adjustments that he needs to so I start this at one slow that's something you can learn and play with to see what you like but you're not going to hurt anything by starting at a lower value to get to one just personal preference in a sense so the next thing that we'll look at here is is the threshold so thresholds the next thing we'll look at and this is basically the damn threshold so what this is trying to say make sure I check my notes to say right so basically if the dam falls below a certain point not only will the car make changes but it'll make changes to the fueling as well and all the different parameters that are set based on what you have here so the first thing we'll start with is the fueling change Subaru as you can see has the dam when you hit 3.0 point three five that's when the height detonation fueling will take over and in that case it'll be a different map that's going to run a lot richer probably 0.5 0.6 AFR richer in this case to kind of protect the engine in case that happens now me personally if for my understanding and FrontPoint you know just some common sense here if you hit point three five I'm a built performance engine stock engine may be able to handle it but when you start adding parts to it and improving the performance you hit 0.35 and you're still running lean in a situation or something there's some damage done to your car already so a good suggestion is to change this to a 0.75 and basically that'll be one maybe two drops to your dam and then you'll hit that fueling you could set it to 0.85 if you're having issues or if you're if you're having dam drops a lot you can save that fueling so it's a good good number to play with but for like a standard value 0.75 should be enough to cover you for two drops the timing will drop and then if fueling drop after that so the next thing we'll look at is all the low drains we'll worry about that load range will boot we're about that so we're gonna look at the MAF calibration nope math limit max so again this is a stage to tune so in this case we're gonna actually change this 300 you you probably won't 300 but just to be safe we're gonna bump it up to about 500 again you probably won't hit 500 on the stock MAF sensor you may have to double check that but you want to get close to it so bump it up higher just so there's no issues with the you see you making any Corrections for anything that happened or any out of form crazy numbers so the next thing we'll do is load limits limits so again low it is basically what the highest load that you think your car will see in this case setting your car to 4 G's was a good high number to set start/end so that you don't have to worry about any issues as far as the car making any adjustments to it I bumped mine up a little bit I went to 5 just to be safe so that you don't have to worry about it but 4 should be fine for most I personally am only hitting like 3.6 3.7 in my currently tuned car all the way up to where I'm at now so you're not even hitting 4 but just bump this up a little bit just so you have some room to play with if you want to mess around with some of the other tables here see you can have some of the launch control stuff flatfoot shifting I make those adjustments on the actual access tuner when I'm driving the car so I don't actually set a value because I don't want flat foot shifting to actually be active the majority the time if I want to be active I'm actually gonna you know get to the access port and make that chain on the access port just so I can use it fortunately I'm focused on the road and after rpm some time so I'll hit that fuel cut and the car will be very very erratic when it when that happens so I person don't do it you can set up your launch control here again I don't use launch control I actually have never even used it so that's up to you to make these changes you can watch all kinds of YouTube videos I made make one once I start to use it but you can make your adjustments here let's see next thing idle speed idle speed I can't type today not at all so I have a speed with the targets a I don't know about B and C you can make those adjustments so they talk at 700 with the stage to tune you can keep it at 700 once you start making changes to your injectors and anything that affects fuelling directly you might want to bump this up just to kind of create a smoother idle I'm standing about 800 right now because of the fuel pump and the injector change and and and the line and everything and it car seems to run just a little bit more smoother at the higher rpm and again this is not a daily car so it's okay if I do that I'm going to see Rev limit I don't think I put notes for that let's see we have here fuel cut so yeah you can set rev limit you know personally I actually set my rev limit to sixty eight hundred and sixty nine hundred so I dropped it down a hundred rpm just because after sixty five hundred the engine itself really kind of tapers off a small amount so it's wood it I don't actually hit rev Rev limit all the time I'm shifting but so that's something to take a look at this one again just something to and we'll do it this way speed limit where'd she go speed limit so you can set your speed limit in this case you can increase it up a little bit again you're probably won't hit those limits but it's there it's a number to make adjustments to well let's see I think that'll be that'll be it for as far as some of the initial things are gonna want to make changes to again if you're you know if you have like different intakes and stuff when you're starting at those points you may want to start from a stock intake get your car tuned up to a good level as far as improving that stock tune that stage to tune with your stock parts and then add in your part and then go ahead and tune for those I know it's extra work and extra steps but going from just a stock based tune with the math and then trying to jump to a bigger intake or a bigger math or whatever the case may be cold air intake things like that you're changing that air turbulence and it might just be a little bit harder to really dial in the actual loan the math scaling so but it's a suggestion but I personally went straight to it and just made the adjustments it took whole took a few weekends of getting math math logs and stuff but they can't be done but let's talk about the load scaling that is one thing I wanted to get into into some details about as I close out all my information that I need here so load let's start with the the most basic load table here and that will be your fuel table so as you can see we talked about earlier your load appears going to need to be increased there's different ways to approach this and you're probably going to hear different viewpoints from some guy who's been tuning for 15 years and some guys I mean for 10 years and some guy who's excuse me like like me that's been like into it for two years and I'm not doing anybody else but myself but uh you can have different approaches and then again you're gonna have your own approach because your car is gonna be different than my car or that guy that it's been tuning for ten years and all the cars he's tuned so there's different ways you want to look at how you want to approach your load where what do you do what do you do with your car how do you use your car what's the purpose behind it so in my case what I kind of did initially as I went and said well like we talked earlier you're probably gonna see a load up to about three you can grab this number hide it all and then you want to interpolate horizontally and what that kind of does is it takes the numbers across makes them all somewhat equal and then you can make your adjustments there that's one way of doing it but I did because I wanted to keep these kind of stock values and you really don't expect too much out of these portions here so I went and made adjustments here and what I did is just interpolated those numbers this is where I want my adjustments to be later on you can make adjustments here if your load increases like beyond like four or five then you might need to make some adjustments because in my case the stock tune is of the stage 2006 STI we only have I believe 14 or 15 rows where the newer cars I think had some more so you that's the first thing you want to do you want to figure out what your load is gonna be how you want to use your load or how you want to drive your car and what you need to do here you've two different ways I showed you know neither's best per se or worse it's just figure out what works for you so once you make that change you do need to actually make that low change and a lot of a lot more than that you need to make that change in other places so if I'm just typing in load let me go start going through these all these different type of compensations we can make adjustments to I guess it's gonna touch upon a lot so let's not do load and we'll just go through the quick ones that I know so obviously you're going to make some adjustments to so ACH you're not going to touch too much fuel in tables you're definitely going to be touching a lot of fuel tables so in this case your open-loop fueling you're gonna make your adjustments their transitions your fuel learning you're not going to make too many adjustments there let's see over on tipeee enrichment that's a different story we'll talk about tipping later that's something I'm still I still want to cover ignition tables you're definitely gonna make some adjustments here so again there they went up to 290 here but you're gonna make you and I think this table actually has one or two more rows than the fuel tables are open-loop so you're gonna apply your change here and the same basis but you're gonna actually give this table in my opinion a little bit more leeway so you might actually want to go to like say 315 in this case your fuel as long as you're staying the same as you in long as you're not increasing too much as far as your logos that fuel you're just gonna keep carrying over so if it's 10.5 and a certain rain at a certain access then if you're at 300 and you get 315 and there's no table there it's just gonna keep that 10.5 going which is not a problem that's something you can make adjustments to you when you make a more power and whatnot so it makes you hit the you knocks it you're not here I know there was a a prom ignition same thing so this is the other big table this is actually the same columns rows as your primary open-loop so you're gonna make your change here and then I think under not control there's gonna be some load ranges so you're going to come into your not control if your course not yeah you're fine knock and I believe your feedback knock so you're gonna make some change yeah so yeah at least definitely your load range here so you ever want to increase this load range for the course knock learning or in this case feedback knocks just to call it course lock in that situation and then you're fine knocks you want to increase this to match the number that you put in your loads so that the car knows to continue to watch for knocking those higher loads I think that covers the most for the low limit yeah I covers the majority of changing there might be a wonderful that I I miss but go through and check all your tape all the tables and make sure that your low ranges have been increased to cover the change that you made so if you're going to be running on pure open-loop in this case you want to go into your your closed-loop here and go into your closed-loop fuelling compensation and again this is something you're not really going to worry about because you're gonna be running and controlling your own fuel and you're just gonna want to zero these bad boys out here in that case your car is pretty much going to rely on the open-loop map now this applies and I don't quote me on this again this applies to the DGD or the O for 206 St is I think at the newer ECU's they started making some changes that are different and I believe those guys actually have to I haven't looked too much into it because I have a mess with it but I actually have to basically tell the car to switch earlier to primary in that case so what's the first thing you're gonna do you know I don't make this video too long but I do want to cover this so what's the first thing you're gonna do you got you made these changes you're gonna go out and you're gonna flash it in take the car for the drive car may not run the way you want car may have a few issues definitely don't wide open throttle the car but what are the first few things that you don't want to do well you made these changes and you want to dial in the fuel so I'm just going through my notes here real quick you're gonna want to calibrate the MAF sensor for open-loop and what you're going to do with that is you're going to kind of go through and calibrate the drivability of the car we're not talking why open throttle yet we're just talking with drivability so the first few things that you're going to do is you're going to come up to here go to your options and you're gonna pull up what you're actually going to datalog what I suggest and there's a few different ways you go out dish you want to do the math voltage and the math mass airflow you obviously want your throttle position you're gonna want your commanded fuel because you want to see what your car is looking for then you're gonna want to do your wideband so in my case it's not showing here so this is a debugging Oh - I have innovate so it's going to show somewhere in here depending on what option you chose up here to choose your your wideband here to log or however you're logging it injector duty cycle that's just to be safe to make sure you're not hitting any any issues rejected you recycle and you're over fueling if you're just doing a stage to tune once we lean it out a little bit you should be fine as far as that goes your mana food relative pressure so you know your boost and then of course the most important stuff is to make sure your car is not knocking and we are going to do the fine fine knock feedback and where is the dam and the dam so those are the really basic ones you want log so you can gather data about what the car is unchecked I guess gather data about what the car is actually doing and then we'll talk about how to use that data and how to reapply it to the car in another video because that's going to be a whole other discussion this is state this is the start it's a stage one we made some changes to the car we didn't do anything too drastic enough to you flash the tune you can drive the car don't wide open throttle because you've made changes and you don't know exactly what they're doing yet but you're ready to start that process for tuning just be ready to basically grocery-getter this car from this point on you're really not going to be touching wide-open throttle for a bit until we make these adjustments that need to be done so I plan on trying to pump a video out once a week about this going into the steps you want to take - to get to the point of wide open throttle so I'll get this uploaded it gets to you guys and you start next one so yeah

Channel: Joes Garage

Views: 5,800

Rating: 4.8899083 out of 5

Keywords:

Id: -rko8zItIVw

Length: 23min 46sec (1426 seconds)

Published: Thu Nov 07 2019