We are now in Isenfluh. It is named after
a little village below us. The next big village
would be Interlaken, so it's quite
close to civilization. The first who discovered it
was Michal Pitelka - Czech as well. After that, we also
bolted some routes. I'd say rock-wise,
it's not first class, but it is always cold
when it's raining. It's deep,
has big roofs on top of it and it's also a good place
when it's too warm. We are at least
1,200 meters high here and in the afternoon,
it's always shaded. Isenfluh is pretty close to big mountains
we have around here, to the whole
Jungfrau region. So landscape-wise,
it's also pretty nice. The place was,
kind of, secret for many years. Now it got published in the guidebook
and that's why we are here! - Want some? No?
- Thank you. You're strong enough,
you don't need it. But this one maybe... You should try that out.
A typical Swiss cookie. The pure Swiss power! The route Adam is on,
I established around 12 years ago and actually, I thought
it was going to be way easier. If you look from the bottom up,
it looks quite easy. Then I soon found out
it's pretty hard. First I bolted all the way
from the top, from the big roof down. Then we found out
it's actually... ... way too hard for us
to climb the whole section. Then we put
a belay in between. That's where Adam is right now,
on this smaller roof. The next 15 meters
from there are damn hard. To up there, it's a 7c+
and then on the upper part, I barely could
link the moves together. It's way over my league. So I proposed to Adam
he should try it out. We were here together
in spring, also with Jakob [Schubert]. They tried it,
but ripped a hold unfortunately. So it's gonna be interesting
what solution he finds now. ADAM: Okay, slack a little bit!
STEPHAN: Yep! ADAM: That's good!
Ok, climbing! STEPHAN: Come on!
... ADAM: Take! ADAM: Good.
STEPHAN: That looks good, yeah! ADAM: It's very similar
to what we did before it broke. STEPHAN: Okay! It's a very tricky route
in terms of the handhold sequence but also for the rope drag. There's this roof,
which is a total roof, but the hardest part is
going over the lip. The crux move is
getting this really bad kneebar, getting the undercling
and then, as the rope goes against this lip
of the roof, you kind of... It's really hard to get up. The rope drag
basically stops you from doing it. There's this okay kneebar. I'm considering placing
a new bolt somewhere around here, hoping that... ... you clip it, go left, and the rope
will go somewhere around here. Ok, climbing! Nice!
... Works well but I definitely
need to change the bolts. After I broke
the kneebar foothold, I thought
the kneebar method is over. Now you're kneebarring basically
to nothing, but it somehow works. - It's super cool, looks possible.
- Yeah! The kneebar just
works well enough to get the undercling,
which feels impossible but the kneebar
helps you to get a bit higher. The right foot is already low enough
so you can get it in and all of a sudden,
you're above the roof and it's fine. Nice! I think I will change
some of the bolts as well. STEPHAN: Yeah, up?
ADAM: Yes. Because if you have a slightly
longer quickdraw in the crux pinch... ... the quickdraw is
basically in your handhold. STEPHAN: Yeah. How did you actually call
the first part - the 7c+? We never gave it a name. Ah... Here is the guidebook
and it says Isenfluhent. Ah, yeah...
That name is not from me! The guy who made
the guidebook named it then. What do you think
of the name? What does
it mean - Isenfluhent? Well, Isenfluh
is the name of this place and... it isn't fluent. Ah, okay.
So it's a nice game with words. Could be worse the name. Ok, climbing! Nice!
... ADAM: No way! I don't know. Previously, I was a little bit
in the rope when I did the move. Now it feels really hard. You can either do
this really bad kneebar, like, kneebar on this, go into this undercling
and then just stand up. That's the straightforward method
but it's pretty powerful. Or use this intermediate
and go into that slopey crimp but... The kneebar is good
up to a certain height but higher, it starts feeling sketchy. Or you take the first intermediate,
put your feet up and just power
through this section. It's really hard
to feel what's the best. Ok, climbing! Come on!
... Ok, that's it! STEPHAN: Nice, good! ADAM: Yes. I really hope
the rope will work like this. Well, actually,
it didn't work. When I was doing the crux move
while having clipped this new bolt the rope got stuck on this arete
just above the lip of the roof. So I removed this bolt
and resorted back to the original plan which was
clipping the bolt in the roof and running it out through the crux
without any other clipping. Two days later, I was ready
for a serious try from the ground. Nice!
... It was such a fight! I can't believe
I stayed in the crux. Everything was kind of wrong,
but I still somehow held on. STEPHAN: Amazing how he
finally did it with the hard pinch. Just with the undercling to get in,
change the feet suddenly... At a certain point, I wasn't sure
if he was going to make it. And he must
have thought the same. But with how he is,
he pushed himself up and made it, and it was awesome! I'm super happy
that somebody finally climbed the second part as well. That was awesome! So, so lucky because... If I fell off
in the undercling, maybe I would have
a good chance to send it next try. But I didn't fall and then I was stuck in the next
move and thought it was over. But I got the pinch,
I got the undercling, and I was fighting
to get the thumb. I was a bit numb, so I wasn't sure
if I have the thumb or not. I thought it was over, but then
I put the foot in and I was like, "Oh, I have it, I'll do it!" But then I took
the next side pull... No more power
in the right biceps! And I thought it was impossible
to go back and shake. Yeah, yeah! In the end, I thought, "Ok, I have
no chance, so let's try to go down." And somehow I just scratched with
a knee pad on some spike and I was like, "Ah, good!" And then... yeah,
it was on the limit. Oh, sh**,
you were making me so nervous!
