The North Face presents: ALPHANE

[Music] for me like what gets me super motivated is climbing like at my limit kind of knowing like i can do it takes a little bit of the fun out of it for me i really like to just be able to like try something and be like holy [ __ ] like is this even possible like can we do this stop that stop that [Music] [Music] [Music] is yes there you go come on come on come on keep it together come on come on come on let's go i'm on you relax come on come come on so we're here at alfvaine moon project a notorious project that dave found back in like 2003 or five he did this climb next to aofan moon it's classic like a day so now we're trying this one and progress is going pretty well almost have it in two parts probably been like 10 days now a lot of beta changes [Music] we thought that like the first part the crimp undercling to this was like 8c for me because i have a really hard time like crimping this hold and it's kind of my anti-style and i'd always thought that it would be like 8c for me but like maybe easier for somebody else like maybe ap plus [Music] [Music] [Music] [Applause] then the next part was like 8c80 plus so the breakdown was 8c to 8c plus [Music] [Music] see what you've got on this end [Music] to the top now all right definitely just go through that fast i was just getting pumped on my left arm [ __ ] right arm is fine all right very sick day [Music] we're at bella luna today and we're gonna try to link the whole thing to the top it it used to drop off at this brick about three quarters of the way up but roman cleaned up the the top of the boulder a few days ago and we worked out the sequence and it adds you know adds maybe a 7c or 7c plus finish to the existing line and takes it to the top of the boulder so it's really the the king line here i feel [ __ ] good today [ __ ] yeah really your whole thing [Music] [Music] nice the top ads dude honestly i was like pretty convinced i was going to fall hey guys we're here at elfane moon mighty hung's crossing he's going to blow out his bicep does that hurt yeah dude they're just warming up [Music] day 18 alfine moon project you want another one day 26 [Music] here we are again day 45 man here we are getting closer every day just got to keep trying just got to keep trying all right cut all right today's the day day 60. feeling really good today winds come in here we go let's go day 100 [ __ ] man i feel beat down man i feel [ __ ] beat down but i listened to this podcast from martin keller the other day [ __ ] he sends day 200. i'm halfway there let's go honestly i don't know my friend on my phone [Music] i remember back when i was younger [Music] [Music] [Music] [Music] my friends uh [Music] [Music] is [Music] oh [Music] [Music] come on come on maddie let's go dude easy dude come on dude i'm so good man come on you got it man yeah that's it yeah perfect maddie come on come on dude very good yes nice yes nice solid it is i've learned how to rest there which makes that move doable like before i was trying to rest like this but if you just like rest like this you can like get this hand okay to do this move and then the top i kind of figured out rope climber maddie like you see like these rocks in the river and you say wow this rock has super beautiful colors but you don't even think about climbing it really no so at the beginning i remember the first images that i have about that rock is just me looking at the beauty of the structure prioness this super special place because the rock for some reason creates this crazy swirly lines um it looks like a mosaic you know like it's the best rock i've seen like for real [Music] ah [Music] huh hot [Music] okay [Music] [Music] oh of course warm up uh this is squalo bianco in the river block it's cool it's like a longish boulder many moves it removes kind of the same in difficulty kind of has everything to it [Music] left hand i bring my right foot up come in and one two double clutch [Music] actually it was weird last year i tried this thing and the first move gave me a lot of trouble you have to do this heel hook and then do a really extended move off the heel hook and i actually could barely reach last time this time it went pretty fast so i think if i can get through that and then my crux is the last move hitting that double tick [Music] yes [Music] good [Music] come on yeah oh [Music] gonna be hard to put together the whole thing you know kind of like a lot to do on it a lot of points of like failure where you could totally fall just for the leftist wall though that's this amazing project that we've always looked at but you can never tell if it goes because like the river rock here is so polished and there's not that many features [Music] but once we wrap down it and check it out a little bit closer there's like totally grips sick crimps like feet kind of hidden and stuff in the moss and everything so yeah kind of came together it's incredible project like for sure one of the best it's like [ __ ] kind of air ball you know it felt hard though i was like looking at it i was like [ __ ] this move so hard and just like connected with it nicely my foot came off but it didn't matter [Music] tall vibes [Music] making moves [ __ ] psych dude that's so cool [Music] you can like fully iso it just left foot only yeah go to this yeah and then you can plug up these gum and then i can bump to the high one and then adjust and then a bump to the tip cool yeah this move the first move is i wouldn't say it's the hardest move definitely not but it's for sure one of them yeah it's definitely one of them this one is really hard this one is not crazy yeah this moves probably the hardest like that section is probably the crux yeah and then the last bit is like probably similar in difficulty to the first move the last move but you're just i'm so [ __ ] tired now i gotta eat some cheese and bread [Music] like when you're there and looking up i don't know it's just the last one and it's scary so it's hard to commit so [Music] come on oh [Music] well that's that'll be my swiss trip god damn it all so yeah jimmy basically had to book a trip home and had to cut his trip short which sucks because he was about to do that boulder and he grabbed this hold slipped off spun him out a little bit and then he just wham right on the crash pad severe sprain which ended up being torn ligaments in the ankle pretty unfortunately [Music] [Music] kind of flat but at least it's side pull yeah and if you squeeze maybe that's a good option exactly and then i think even if you don't yeah a little sketchy climbs out this mega roof right here kind of crazy landing physical moves but pretty perfect all-time climb [Music] [Music] left-handed yeah amazing moves yep i'm finished yeah we should go working with athletes man horrendous all right we're having a moment they hate when you elevate they're stacking up as i'm handing them out yeah i had to go delegate i feel like i'm floating i'm lost in the moment they never believed that that would really fly i had to go demonstrate i had to set them straight they hate [Music] yeah it's only it only feels a lot more elevated from the start like from the start it definitely feels elevated but in iso like it's not really that crazy [Music] [Music] like brick and these are like slow people yeah come on [Music] come on nice dude come on yep nice dude you got it very good sean yes come on come on come on yes easy dude easy very good nice yes perfect very good jug right up there yeah you can move your feet there's a good guest on yeah and you can put your feet out left nice dude yeah nice solid hell yeah sick god congratulations first try oh maddie's here i came but just as your good luck charm take some cred oh yeah there you go what you get blasted dude the last move after like going to the last tick right here oh man i went left hand i didn't know where to put my feet so i was like dude it looks so when i saw it it looked so sketchy i saw your foot i was like oh man that doesn't look like this is a solid i was like whoa in the coral i was like pumped i was like just like let me get over the lip i'm not chilling i definitely want like a little skin [Applause] [Music] i had to set them straight they hate when you elevate elevated [Music] [Music] [Music] don't need a replacement [Music] don't see the ground that i know [Music] i know [Music] [Music] let's go yeah finally you guys did owned it [ __ ] limit going to the ledge yeah way to commit i was like a little pumped and i fell and just caught it but i didn't catch him in the good spot you're really waiting for it turn my head off we're headed to crestiano to try dreamtime one of the world's most famous boulders today is day fourth on the boulder so yeah i'm psyched i think i can do it today the weather's good feeling good on it [Music] so [Music] my life [Music] formula one qualifying first of the year one try watch the formal one another try a little bit from one as my first time here i wanted to check out during time off the wagon you know the boulders that i've always heard about and seen the videos and i have an elbow epicondylitis that's still here you know go for his elbow and it's been really bothering me for the last few months and i didn't know if i was going to be able to climb at all on the trip i almost didn't come but i was like you know what i might as well just change the scenario start try to stop thinking about the injury a little bit and just go out and climb with those guys a little bit and yeah i'm really stoked that i was actually able to climb uh i really had to peek and choose what i would hop on you know what kind of boulders i could try but during time uh didn't hurt me at all and yeah just psyched i got to climb on that [Music] bye [Music] so oh what makes this route hard is the fact that it's extremely powerful and at the same time extremely technical and you need to be able to know how to climb and how to use friction holes and i think what makes this climb like one of the best for sure and hardest projects i've seen is the the full package like it's got every style and every technique on it the bottom is pretty basic power climbing on edges and then when you get to the midway break the style changes up a lot and you start grabbing more open hand style grips you're doing some weird heel hooks you're doing hard walk-offs weird drop knees and style just completely flips and then when you get to the finished jug you still have this like outro v10 which is very much on you all the way to the top so to do this whole thing it requires both power and endurance i probably put in like i don't know eight or nine days so far and i'm still trying to make some links on it i think it's really hard it's definitely that next step [Music] but it's really like the actual process that's like if you make that fun and everything then that's like what you remember and what counts to me more so like i love projecting almost more than sending now that i'm like all sussed and starting to feel really good it's like i'm like thinking they're less hard like originally you thought they were harder but so it's hard to tell when you get acquainted with something it all feels easier [Music] i think i'm like hyping it up to be too hard that i have to be super fresh but then maybe i do just it is that hard and i have to be that fresh i can't tell yeah it's hard to tell when you get close to do a climb everything feels easier and probably should feel easier because that means you're gonna do it so who knows maybe it still is like eight seed hc or eight seed eight c plus but now that i'm about to do everything feels really solid and so i think it's more ap plus to hc welcome to alphane moon here you can see that we have a hard project in which sean rabateu is going to demonstrate shortly let's see if his skin is good enough to be able to stick to these non-existent grips and be able to propel his body upward to the finishing jug this is going to be a very very very interesting battle let the games begin [Music] so [Music] is [Music] yes [Music] come on [Music] getting too high and then i was like [ __ ] i'm like stuck like the foot feels so far [Music] and before i feel like i'm kind of like getting into the foot and like pouring out more cow on the go like that i feel like i'm more quirky i think i was like going out too far like there i really stayed in really on your back huh like something like this has happened like three days now or it's just like something that i've always done right and then on the send go i just don't realize that i was doing it to not try so hard this airflow [Music] come on very good he's done like a lot of hc first descents and hc plus that no one knows yet but he's like crushing it and i think sean personally is maybe the best climber i've climbed with at the moment this thing's hard it's really hard [Music] oh oh i got there and i was like so pumped i did like 11 moves and i couldn't move hi sean easy come on on come on very good sean easy dude come on dude come on man let's go come on very good come on very good man come on get it get it yes very good nice yes solid dude you're good come on john come on come on man come on dude come on easy sean let's go stall it dude come on place it well yeah you got it solid dude you know this yeah yeah easy come on man come on come on jug yes come on man jug come on come on come on very strong stop that good dude jug's coming up come on man come on dude yeah rest rest rest come on relax [Music] [Music] awesome [Music] please get on your knees came from the jungle up in the trees i got a few tricks up in the sleeves [Music] [Music] it's over big battle thanks boys [Laughter] sick bro i'm so pumped dude you almost fell with the jugs in your hands [Laughter] it was crazy i feel like if you couldn't if you didn't find that left heel hook you would have done [ __ ] yeah i was like oh my [Laughter] champagne party

Channel: mellow

Views: 815,994

Keywords: 8B+, 8c, 8c+, 9a, adam ondra, alex honnald, alphane, alphane 9a, alphane v17, bouldering, broken bone, broken leg, brooke, chris sharma, climbing, climbing falls, daniel woods, felipe camargo, film, free solo, giuliano cameroni, hardest boulderr, hardest climb, jimmy webb, magnus, mellow, movie, reel rock, rock climbing, shawn raboutou, the north face, tnf, v14, v15, v16, v17

Id: Rx6GPpO37C4

Length: 47min 7sec (2827 seconds)

Published: Mon Aug 22 2022