Civrays InMoov - Right forearm

[Music] everyone welcome back to the channel we're going to be doing a bit more robot building today on the in move as you can see here I've got the right forearm super pleased with how this is turned out so what I'm going to be doing in this video is showing you how I put this thing together okay so let's take a look at the right forearm I've got most of the parts here ready for the shell of the forearm we will obviously have the servo bed to go inside as well I've done a little bit of work on some of these parts but before I start I want to just show you a few things I've bought to help me with this part of the build I did say that I wasn't going to be painting the parts and you can see that already I have attempted painting one of them I just couldn't resist it I wasn't really happy with how they looked freshly printed so I have sanded this part filled it a bit and started to prime it it does need a little bit more work and I think I am going to go ahead and paint all of these parts here as I said I have purchased a few things to help me along the way I've switched to a different filler so instead of using the artex filler I've now switched to this wood filler I thought I'd try something different and the art exfill has seemed a bit too soft but to be honest I've tried this wood filler and it isn't much different it's very similar to the art X Billa but I will reserve judgment on it until we go a bit further along and I'll let you know how that goes and the other thing I purchased was some new wet and dry sandpaper at various different grit levels I'm not quite sure what range I've got here but I have got a good range of different grit levels and I'll hopefully explain what I use as I go along so there's a couple of things are BOTS and paper and filler and then one other thing I've purchased is these little clamps I didn't have these for the left arm when we were building the left arm and they should come in handy for clamping these parts together as we glue them okay so they start having a look at some of the parts I have used the new filler on this part here I mean he's looking quite smooth the camera doesn't show all the imperfections but he's looking particularly smooth there are some little imperfections in there I coated it with this stuff all over let it dry overnight so it is you know had a good chance to dry and then I've sanded it and haven't sanded all of it off so we actually can't see any of the 3d printed lines but we is slightly rough in some places I'm finding as I'm sanding it it's not really improving that so again I'm not sure if this filler is too soft you sand it and it just sort of pulls chunks out I'm not sure what to do with out whether to fill it and sand again or wood to prime it and see what we have after that I think I probably will try filling it a little bit more and resounding I think it's tempting to move straight onto the priming stage but that's a mistake I believe and we need to get it smooth before you start painting so that one's done the others haven't had any prep at all this is how they come straight off the printer it's not bad it's a pretty good finish but it's a bit grainy and this one I'm trying to get rid of so we'll need to sand these and fill them there's three more of these to do they saw the big one here and this one will need to just clean up the edges a bit a little bit the brim left on those will need just cleaning off once we've got them probably all up to this stage because they're all pretty smooth will then start gluing them together that's what my clamps will come in handy and I will just be using normal super glue so what I used on the first part was this P 240 grit sandpaper and I think I'll just continue with that on the earth on the next three parts I'm just gonna clean up the edges with a knife now one problem we had with the left arm was the the piece that fits inside here was a bit tight so I think it's important to just give it took file inside this part here you could do this wet mr. paper the sandpaper is there waiting bright paper waiting it like you see the plastic tool stop spices from melting so I'll move on to filling this next part I tried to push the filler right into the grooves that the 3d printing method is left want to try and completely cover the whole part with just a very thin layer yeah so they're done I need to let them dry for several hours now let that go hard so same as last time we glue their two halves together I've clamped them as you can see with the new clamps that I've got and I ran a little bit of extra glue around the inside of here so I'll leave them for a few hours to set hard and then we'll sort fill across this gap and try and sand that so we lose that line so I've removed the clamps and I've put some filler across here so we'll be able to sand that later to try and get rid of the lines what I'm gonna do next is glue this piece on so that would be the wrong way of doing it you see you kind of got this curve going in and then back out again that's not correct it goes the other way around goes this way around so you've got a nice gentle line on each side of the arm so I've put some filler around this end piece it's the end piece that glues on to the forearm and I filled it and then sanded it back and you can see around here it's pitted and here so I think what I need to do here is put a second coat of filler in and then sand it back again so here's the forearm cover with their first coat of primer put on I put a couple of bits of tape on the inside of this sort of bracket here because I didn't want too much thicker paint building up inside there so now when we did the other arm this is a little narrow in here so I didn't want it to be reduced in width anymore by several layers of paint this is still a little rough it did drip a little here but we can it's hardly anything we could send that out I'll sand this down again and give it another coat I'm quite surprised I can actually still see some of the printing layers through that but the paint's not on that thick so sand this down and get another coat on it I had a minor setback with this part I actually dropped it and this end piece smashed off nothing was really broken it just detached this part from the end so I had to redo it and I filled it again I'm gonna have to resend it and sort of rework that area should be fine now it's just sent me back a little bit so starting to look good now this is the third coat of primer after the second coat of primer I sanded it very lightly with P 400 grit sandpaper and I'm now going to give this third coat very light rubbing down with the P 1500 grit which is quite smooth sandpaper I'll give that a sand down and then we'll get hopefully one last coat of primer on it before we switch to the top coat here you can see I've put the first coat of white on the forearm cover it's going to need another coat because it is it's not quite covered here we'd want to do two coats anyway and the other side of the forearm is had the final coat of primer so just needs a a light sanding and then we can put the color on that as well so let's move on and take a little look at the servo bed I've got all the parts here ready off the printer they've still got their brooms attached so we'll need to clean those up we've got the main servo bed here we've got this front cable guide this will go in at the front here and then we've got the rear cable guide which will go on the top there sure which way around or for going out in a minute I'm just one screw in the top here then we have the spring tints you know we're not actually fitting the springs but I'm gonna just put this part in just so I I know where it is I don't lose it later we will put springs in at some point I just don't have any Springs at the moment so what I'm gonna do is just clean off all these brims and start putting these parts together this is a two and a half army it's real we're just gonna run that through that hole there so just striking everything off before it's hot enough okay yeah um some of the holes are already quite clean spot has come out surprisingly well on the furniture just one you can see down that's got a little bit plastic in so I'm just running with three chests just make sure the holes are clear again I don't need to go mad for the power drill this rare capable guide here again that looks super clean these parts that come out really well these parts definitely look more refined than the original ones okay so we just have one screw on here thing this part is you can get it the wrong way around could go that way or we could turn it and put it and there's the correct way you're gonna have to look down the holes and see that they they should be angled inwards point towards the servos so the fishing lines will come through these holes here and then go off in this direction towards the center of the part so that's fine looks like you probably want to fit the servo before we fit this because we've got these holes under here where the servos fit end so we probably want to put this on after we've installed the servo so I won't put the screw in for now already seems to be two and a half meters so we don't really need to draw it out yes gone together surprisingly well so I think it is best just to try the parts for fit before you start screwing things together one other significant notable difference between this part and the last time we built because you've got these extra parts here now and I believe they are for an extra servo to attach in there I'm not sure so I could be telling you incorrectly here but I believe that is for a double actuated thumb there's two holes down in there and then one hole back here so I think you fit the servo in with just three screws that does look a little awkward to get the servo in there and we're not going to be fitting that I haven't actually seen the design for the double acts like double actuated thumb so I'm not going to be building that but it looks like you could fit an extra servo down and yeah yeah so we won't be fitting right and it's kind of annoying really because that's where we attach to our circuit board before and it's gonna get in the way and as we're not using it it's a shame that it's there but it would be pretty handy as an upgrade if we want to upgrade the thumb at some time in the future so I'm not totally against having it there it's just a little annoying in my particular scenario where I don't need it but it says it's a nice idea I believe we need to just file these parts out a little bit here these this doesn't quite fit in here and I think there's another locating lugs that are just there and they're not quite fitting in so just a little bit of filing to get those to sit right because we need this bed sink flat in there okay so they sitting in there flat now you might just want to file out this part here I didn't put it's quite tight there and this part here this one here didn't seem to be so much of a problem there's a lot more clearance on that but this one here and this one here a little tight and so that's sitting in there flat now so a little tricky decide what order to put things in but I think what I'm going to do is take the bed out and install four of the servos that'll leave us access to this screw here and if we don't fit the servo that goes in here we can still access this fixing hole here all right so these are the servos that have bought Gatti's off eBay they are the mg 996 our tower Pro we used these before the mg six six nine are in the other arm I believe I believe it's the same survey but they weren't marked as Tower Pro so I'm not in fact I early convinced about the origin of these I got off eBay but you never know where they really originated from they feel they feel very light and the the cables seemed very thin they cost twelve pounds four five so they really are low cost so they might not be particularly high quality they should do fine for the fingers and haven't had any problems with the first set but these do look a little different they come with this Rohan's we use the round one so we can discard most of this stuff and we do need the little black screw that's important not to lose that because that it's the screw that we screw the servo horn on to the top of the servo with there like that so I'll just start putting things together so I can understand this design a little bit more now I noticed this on the first arm but it didn't really understand what was going on this servos mounted a little bit of lower than this one it's kind of messing with my mind to figure out how that works you know how how come this one be lower than that one both servos are the same size so why is this ones mountings lower and what it is is that this servo is actually sunk into the bottom of the part and actually comes out at the bottom slightly whereas the one on the other side doesn't and I'm guessing Geils designed it that way to give a little bit more clearance on this side of the arm maybe as the arm curves over this one was just sort of catching slightly so he's lowered it down just to improve that that works quite well one thing I'm a little baffled with with though is the this one has quite a lot of gap between the white plastic part and the black plastic of the servo so it looks like you've got enough room to actually install the anti-vibration mounts you have a you have a rubber Bush that fits in the end and then a metal sleeve that goes down the center and the idea of that is the vibrations coming from the servo rotating don't travel through to the actual the rest of the parts because the the rubber absorbs the vibrations so that's the idea of those that's why you get those with servos but the problem is they do fit on that one this one they don't really because it touches the why plastic and the problem is these holes the fixing holes for the servos are too large so you can install that and then when you put the screw down there's the screw which comes with the servo that fits in there see there just fall straight into the hole you know it's just the holes just the fixing holes are just too big so I'm not quite sure why why Geils designed them with such big holes I can only assume that he doesn't use these little screws he uses bigger screws they have bigger screws here which yeah they're still too small I'm going to have to use quite large screws and that means that they'll be too big to fit down the metal sleeves so we're gonna have to discard the anti-vibration dampeners so on these two the labels just come out through these parts here in the sides another one on this side here two rear ones what I've already done come straight out the back and then believe the final server that goes points the other way goes for what the cable comes out through that hole there we've got four of them in there now I fit the two fixing screws down to screw the bed down I did actually take these two out again and screw the bed down because with these servos II and it was difficult for me to tell whether the bed wasn't was completely flat on the bottom so I popped these two servos out made sure the bed was 100 percent flat but these two screws in here this one and the one down in there and then you can just about squeeze these servos back in it just flex a little bit to get them back in probably made a little bit of a mistake because you don't want to tighten these up don't tighten these servos down until you've got the last one in if you leave them loose you still have a little bit of flexing in here which allows you to get that last servo in so I'll probably just slacken the screws off on these two and then get that last servo installed if you do remove the screws from the front of here you can just about squeazy then push that down get it in but now I've had another problem because I believe it's hitting on the screw at the bottom for the screws underneath it I think you need to use countersunk screws for the fixing the bed down this one's fine because we've got space but this one down here is going to need a countersunk screw in there so I'm gonna have to try and take that out again so that's important countersunk screw in this position here it should give us clearance to get that servo in okay so they're all in now I haven't screwed them in super tight you've just just don't just tight enough to hold things still these three here and this one at the back they don't sit down on the servo bed but the fixing points so you screw them in things kind of Bend it's a little annoying this is the only one that actually sits down flat and fits properly I have made a mistake here this is a little annoying and I'm probably going to seriously regret this but I've forgotten to install the m3 nuts we should have put one in in here one in here and one underneath this part here that's down in there and there's a fourth one for that actually has to go in here and this is going to be the problem one that's gonna be really difficult to get in now so I may have to remove this servo to get that nut in there I better sort that out because we're going to need those later I figured it would be a lot easier to do these nuts in here if I took the servo bed back out again just gives us a lot more access I did have to apply a bit of heat to these two here and this one is a little distorted now but we should be out sort that out but these two here were actually very loose so I've put them all in and I've put a little bit of superglue on each nut I'm kind of hoping that I haven't super glued the bolts in but even if I have they should come out quite easily I'm finding this glue isn't that effective actually so I'll just let them dry for a little bit and then we'll take those bolts back out and get the servo bed back in so I've put the servo bed back in and I've installed the first servo horn I just went through that to figure out how to do it and now I'll do the next one now and I'll show you what I did so the first thing I did was to just run an eight and a half millimeter drill through this hole here just by hand it barely takes anything off but just uh and that's to make the black servo horn fit then just push the servo horn end is that another one with the the row of three holes lining up with the notch and then we use the center hole on the two sides to put the screws in and I'm just using the screws that came with the servo these tiny little screws I drilled through with the one and a half millimeter drill just through these the one in the middle on each side I just using my hand to drill through these I'm not using the power drill these are quite delicate so what I'm doing is I'm gonna screw them all the way in and then I'm just gonna back them off a little bit by screwing them all the way in once and then I'm doing it and it means that when we do the second time it would just be there a little bit easier and then what I'm doing is I'm just cutting off the extra bit that's coming through the back screws are quite soft so you can cut them quite easily I have used a dremel before to cut screws off but that tends to make the screw really hot and then it melts the plastic it's not a good idea to cut screws with a dremel when you've got them stuck through a piece of plastic and then I'm just filing off the sharp edges just takes it down a little bit okay okay so I'm going to do next is on these three holes here that line up with the notch the two outside holes this one and this one just going to run through them with a two millimeter drill we have to run the fishing line through those holes so just want to be a clearance on them okay and finally I'm using the one and a half millimeter drill I would use a 1 millimeter if I had it but this is a smaller stroller got when you drill down these holes here you have to be really careful because you don't want to crack the plastic at this point I cracked quite a few when I done the first arm so we just want to go really slowly and again I'm just doing it by hand rather than using a power tool you can see we just opened that hole up same on the other side just really gently then we could just pop that onto the servo up I'm not worried too much about these today because I'll probably remove them again when we actually set the arm up and then we hold them on with the little black screw I'm only fitting them really so that we don't lose them for later I probably will remove them when we run the fishing line through so I'll do the other three off-camera and then we'll come back okay the next thing to do is to fit this rear cable guide and as I said before we want the holes to run in which towards the servos so then the very last thing we're going to do today is slip the cover over the top so everything in there so we just want to pop that on one issue we have with this is you can see that there's a section cut out in here and I think you have to just cut this piece off the same yourself yeah so we just need to chop a little better out I use the Dremel for that I think if we don't it I think it hits this servo here so we have the same problem with the last time so I'll just cut a little piece away from that [Music] then we should be able to fit this on just seem a little tight down this end here so then the last thing is to put some m3 screws in here so I actually run out white paint when I was doing this otherwise this bit here would have been painted white as well I'll come back to the painting sometime in the future there it is the or on complete we will have to open it up again when we come to attach the hand so we can run the cables through and we'll have to do the electrics as well but we'll leave that there for today quite pleased with how that's turned out this is probably the most disappointing bit it didn't quite fit very well here and I wasn't quite happy with the finishes the paint in the end I did accidentally mark here a little bit here and this side hasn't had quite enough white paint on it so it's not quite as as white as this side but I'm gonna come back to the painting at some point in the future anyway there's no point spending too much time on these parts because for all I know I could break this at some point and we'll have to replace it anyway but there you go so if you liked the video please like and subscribe to the channel if you got any comments on what we could have done differently or any improvements then I'd be really pleased to see you leaving comments below other than that thanks for watching and I'll see you next time [Music]

Channel: Steve Rayner

Views: 6,915

Keywords: InMoov, robotics, 3D printing, finishing 3d prints, sanding, painting, servos, forearm, robotic arm, servo bed, Civrays InMoov, 3d printed robot, inmoov arm, robot hand

Id: zL4bfUO8RuU

Length: 43min 25sec (2605 seconds)

Published: Mon Nov 25 2019