Chinese Chainsaw Challenge - Will it Run? (Unbelievable Amount of Problems)

hey guys welcome back so today working on this 58cc chainsaw this one is branded craft world and I've never heard of this brand before so I did a quick search online and found that this is actually a common saw that's made in China and it's sold under a lot of different names anyway this saw does not belong to me someone reached out to me said they recently purchased this saw used and it had no air filter or cover you know that said he brought it home started it and it ran great for about two or three minutes and he hasn't been able to start it since now the person who bought this doesn't have a lot of experience with small engines so of course the first question I asked him was did he mix oil in the fuel and he said he did so I told him to drop it off and as soon as he gave it to me I pulled the engine over and it does not feel like there's a lot of compression there so I asked him again about the oil and the fuel and he clarified that he put oil here and straight gasoline in here so that is not a good sign because this engine as most of you know it has no sump it has no oil the fuel has to have oil in it and it seems like he may have run it for a couple minutes without any oil so most likely this engine is dead and this saw brand new sells for only about a hundred and eighty dollars and after digging on Amazon I could find them on sale for about a hundred and forty so most likely this is going to need a new top end and unless that is dirt cheap I would say this might be a tear down video anyway let's not jump to conclusions let's pull the plug out maybe get the compression tester in there see where we're at and go from there I can tell you already it's not exactly the best design looks like this post is in the way from getting the spark plug out Maybe looks like a new plug don't think it's seen any use all right let's check the compression on a two-stroke you need at least 100 PSI to get it to start you know the higher the better but we need I would say at least a hundred and we are at 40. so yeah I I would say this engine's cooked let's put a little bit of oil down the cylinder see if that makes any kind of a difference [Applause] all right let's try this again we'll do it with the throttle open this time no change 40 PSI so yeah I think that's the problem there's not enough compression so there's a couple of things we can do to verify that the cylinder and the Piston are damaged we can pull the exhaust off and get a look at the side of the piston and cylinder and that's probably the easiest I could also use the Boris scope and the boroscope tends to make things look worse than they really are but I say we start there that is the easiest thing so let's take a peek so far actually not terrible I can see some crosshatch in there let me switch to the side camera that should give us a better View ever what I can see actually the cylinder does not look damaged you know right now the Piston is at the bottom of its travel And the cylinder cross hatch it is still there so yeah maybe this engine did not cook itself so I say we put the spark plug back in maybe put a little bit of pre-mix down there and just pull it over see if we get any signs of life foreign [Applause] turn the ignition on and right now the throttle is locked to full open throttle see what we get wow I was not expecting that I thought this was going to be a tear down video and based on the 40 PSI I gave this no chance so maybe there is some sort of compression release because this engine it is not dead so let's add some fuel to the tank and try this again choke ignitions on and put it back to full throttle Maybe thank you foreign okay try it again this time no throttle leave the choke on let's try it again I'm gonna lock the throttle open again choke it doesn't like running with the choke off [Music] thank you I really thought this was just going to be a tear down video this saw really isn't worth putting a lot of money into fixing and I would say this is most likely a carb issue the sauce starts when you have Full Throttle choke on can't get it to rev up at all and if I turn the choke off it starts to rev a little bit and then the engine promptly dies so I think we do have a fuel issue and there is actually a little puddle of fuel forming under the saw and it does not seem to be coming from the fill so most likely there's an issue with a fuel line or maybe the carb is just flooding over not sure I think either way that carb does need to come out so let's take some of these parts off get better access and get that carb out of that saw foreign plug out first I've never worked on one of these saws before so far it's not too bad to take apart you know some saws you gotta remove the entire engine to service the carburetor it looks like these two screws right here is all that holds the carb in and it should come right out now I'm sure rebuild kits are most likely not available for this since it's a clone saw and a clone carb I'm willing to bet a replacement is dirt cheap so that is most likely the route I'm going to take here and we've got a couple fuel lines here one on the top one on the right and I think that's it there's no Purge bulb on this one and of course the linkage then we should be free remove the choke and the throttle linkage and that is it pretty easy to remove carbs actually dry there's no signs of flooding and now that I'm taking a closer look I can see a side of the case is wet where the cap is so yeah the cap might be missing a seal or maybe I didn't tighten it enough foreign so let's just pop that off and see if there's something not right that cap is already on there so tight I can't get it off so yeah I don't think tightening it is the answer as far as stopping the leak nothing obviously wrong either so I don't know if we're missing a seal potentially or maybe I just need to tighten it a little bit more so let's try the easy thing tighten it a little more and see if that works well I think that did it it's been about 10 minutes and everything is dry no more fuel is leaking out of that cap so that problem is solved and I think the carb issue too might be sorted out because I took a look on eBay I just typed in 5800 Chinese chainsaw and a carb that looks just like this came up it's only eight dollars so I've already placed that order and we'll give it a try in a few days when it gets here new carburetor showed up today and I'm kind of unloading the Parts Canon on this one meaning you know I don't know for sure that it is the carburetor you know chances are it is but there are other issues that would cause the saw to starve for fuel like it is here let's just compare these real quick yeah they appear to be the same this rubber piece here just removed from the old one and should install right on there so let's just double check the Jets on the old one to see where they're at I guess starting with the low speed I mean there's no saying that these jets are correct wow low speed was two turns out which is quite a bit and same thing with the high speed so I would not have expected that I would think the initial setting would be closer to one to start with let's just see on the new carb where it shipped at about one and three quarters so I'm going to set the initial setting I'm thinking one and a quarter and go from there I'm going to do the same on the high speed so right now we're at it it was about three and a quarter turns out which is way too much so we'll also set that at one and a quarter and that's an issue I find on clone carbs a lot of times they just put these jets in during assembly just so they won't fall out they don't actually set them to where they should be or even in the ballpark now it's not to say that one and a quarter is the final setting you know it may not even start like that and if it doesn't we'll open it up a little bit maybe a quarter turn and try starting it after each adjustment and once it's going then we can fine tune it so I think we'll just get this bolted on we'll start with trying to move this piece over something like that it's just a dust boot and the adjustment for the idle is right down in there and the other interesting thing is that I noticed on the old carb there are no gaskets whatsoever and there's absolutely nothing and I don't think it ever had anything and I don't think it's meant to which seems kind of cheap I would think a gasket would seal better than just metal on metal it's just a metal o-ring right there and of course the metal carb body so that is another reason why this may not be running right so if the new carb doesn't run it right we'll probably try adding a gasket maybe check the fuel flow check the spark arrestor and just kind of start Crossing things off the list so yeah let's get this installed see if that solves the issue start by getting the throttle reconnected that's the post line for the pump and fuel supply the choke lever which I think when something like that something's not right the throttle is hanging up on something so I'm guessing the butterfly might be hitting the intake so we might be misaligned a little bit you can just see it snapped open once I loosen these bolts a little yeah something's not right so let me pause it here I'm going to pull this off take a closer look and see why that throttle is hanging up the old and the new look the same as far as the size of the opening I did double check it they both came in at 15.9 millimeters so I don't think it's the carb that's the issue and the throttle plate when the carb's uninstalled has no issues opening and closing so it must have been hanging up on something let me get this oh actually it's not the carburetor it's the actual throttle lever itself is not it's not moving so the issue has nothing to do with the carburetor oh there we go that's a little concerning but what do you expect it's not an expensive saw so we'll get this back to where it was and then just finish it up by putting that plastic piece on the top to kind of hold everything in then we'll try to start it foreign okay let's try it out well I just tested it and unfortunately the camera did not record it but you did not miss much it's not running any better no matter how I adjust the jetting so I'm thinking that low compression number is a real issue here but I am going to add a gasket just to make sure between the carb and the engine and we'll try it one more time you know I guess the other issues it could be include fuel flow from the tank to the car but I did test that and there's no blockage in the line or the filter so that is not the issue and you know we could have a clogged spark arrestor but I don't think that's the issue either because it won't even idle and I can kind of rev It Up and then it starves out for fuel it's getting air from somewhere you know so it could be compression issues it could be a crank seal you know whatever it is I'm leaning towards a problem that's most likely not worth fixing on this socks you can buy a brand new one pretty cheap of the same model foreign let's try it again hopefully it's recording this time choke on ignition on leave the throttle at idle that's pretty much all it's doing [Music] so I've got the low speed now two turns out [Music] foreign [Music] [Music] [Music] [Music] [Music] foreign [Music] and yeah that's that's all it does you know I spent quite a bit of time on the lost footage trying to tune the carburetor anywhere from one turnout all the way to three turns out on the low speed jet and there's really no noticeable difference as far as how it reacts you know I can kind of get the saw to rev up if I work the choke but I can't find anywhere where it's happy to idle you know it's just not running right so I'm thinking that even though the cylinder looks good there has to be something wrong with the Rings maybe the Reed valves if it has them there's just something not allowing the saw to run and knowing that the prior owner did say he had it running for a couple minutes with straight gasoline you know I'm leaning towards maybe burned up rings so I'm going to get the exhaust off so we can look at the side of the Piston that'll tell us more than we knew before because as the borescope only let us see the cylinder by pulling the exhaust we can actually see the side of the piston and the condition of the Rings at least on the exhaust side so yeah let's get the exhaust off and see if that tells us anything thank you those are pretty loose it's not a good sign we got a random chunk of aluminum behind the exhaust let me zoom in here so you can actually see so there's a look at the Piston you can see the Rings let me just rotate the engine that piston does not look bad and you can see the back of the cylinder there as well so yeah this does not clarify what's going on with this saw but I would say the Piston the Rings the cylinder they seem to be good I'm kind of on the fence as far as where to go next on this this is throwing a lot of mixed signals to me the owner says he ran it on gas and after looking at the Piston the Rings the cylinder I'm not seeing any signs of damage in fact it looks brand new which makes me wonder has this saw ever run from the factory more than a few seconds and I'm thinking it hasn't and most likely that saved the saw when the owner tried running it on gas because chances are it ran for a second like we're seeing now and then stalled out and that actually saved the saw now we still have the low compression issue I mean 40 PSI is extremely low you know that said the saw wouldn't run if it was really 40 PSI you need closer to 100 to run a two-stroke engine so what I'm thinking is that there's an issue with my compression tester I mean it's not that it doesn't work I know this works I use it all the time on generator engines but those engines are much larger the ccs are around 420 and this is only 58 so there's a very small volume of air that's getting compressed and when I add in this tester with this long line there's no Schrader valve down here so now it's actually compressing not only the volume that's in the cylinder but the volume that's in this line and as a result we're only getting 40 PSI up to the gauge so to prove that I'm going to start my trimmer I know this machine runs well and then I'm going to pull the plug we'll put the compression tester on it and it should be over a hundred on a running machine but I think we're going to see something different foreign open false and according to this the echo has 25 psi and we know this is a good running machine so I would say this is wrong you know it's not appropriate for a small engine without the Schrader valve down there and that's a good thing because if this runs and it has 25 psi according to that gauge well that one has 40. so that gives me some reassurance that there's enough compression in that chainsaw to run and compression is not the issue so if it's not compression what could it be you know we have spark we have timing we have compression so we're left with fuel there has to be something with the fuel either not enough or too much air like a leak either at the base gasket or one of the crank SEALS or even on the intake boot you know another possibility is a clogged spark arrestor on the exhaust and this exhaust actually does not have a spark arrestor and I can see through the exhaust I mean there is no obstructions in here at all so I'm going to actually put the exhaust back on I don't think that's the issue I'm going to focus in first on fuel delivery I'm going to make sure that we can get fuel from this line and then I'm going to take a look at the pulse that the engine is providing because that's what actuates the fuel pump which pumps the fuel up to the carburetor and yeah we'll just see what that tells us and we'll go from there so I'm going to test the line going to the tank using this brake bleeder and the Mighty Vac so if I start pulling a vacuum we should see fuel coming up and into this container and you can see there's no issue pulling fuel a containers filling up very quickly so there's no issue with the line there's no issue with the fuel filter so let's check the impulse line going to do a very similar test except we don't need the container to catch any fluid this line runs down into the crankcase so every time the Piston goes up and down there should be a pulse of pressure and that's what drives the fuel pump on top of the carburetor so what I'm checking for is to make sure this line isn't clogged if I pump some pressure in it should go down and not build pressure look at that it should not be doing that I mean it is going down but it's going down way too slowly so that line that's obstructed and like that it's not going to drive the fuel pump or if it's going to drive the fuel pump it's going to be extremely weak and that's what we're seeing so let's get to the the other end of that line I think we need to get this stuff out of the way we'll get the line off and see if there's any junk in there it's hard to tell but I think I think I see something in there let me just shine a light through it yeah I think there's something in there let me grab this pick yeah I can feel something in there foreign that out still there oop whatever it is it just moved I almost got it out seems like it's part of the hose maybe a defect and how it was made or just a scrap from manufacturing now there might be another piece here just blow some more air through that oop oh that piece is gone but I did see another piece blow out oh it's got two pieces now that might be it that's it two tiny little bits of rubber came out seems to be the same material that the line was made out of so most likely just some scrap from manufacturing and they must have been positioned perfectly to clog this line and with a clogged impulse line the pump would not have worked and the saw would have starved for gas and that's exactly what we saw it sounded like it was starving for gas so let me plug this line back in we'll do another test to make sure it's not building any pressure and if it's not then I think we're going to have a runner and if there's any doubt we can now see the light through this line so that obstruction is completely gone all right let's double check this perfect we are not building pressure and I'm also going to just turn the engine over if the pulse is making it we should see the needle on this gauge bouncing around perfect and that needle it's bouncing back and forth so we're definitely getting a pulse so I think this is going to be a runner let's get the car back on and give it another try okay let's give this a try I think we're together enough switch is on choke on lock the throttle give it a few pulls [Music] [Music] all right [Music] [Music] I think that's the longest this saw has ever run so let's um you know what let's put the cover back on that's going to make things a lot easier and then I'm going to try to dial these needles in a bit you know we're a little off but playing with the choke I was able to keep it running and rev it up so that is a huge improvement over where we were before and I just realized I put on the old carburetor and it's running pretty well I wonder what the new carb would sound like let me swap the carbs real quick let's try this again this time with the new carburetor choke on lock the throttle open the choke [Music] [Music] laughs [Music] nice to be honest I thought this engine was going to be smoked and this was going to be a tear down video yet here we are the saw starts it idles and it revs up you know that said we're not home free yet the idol is unsteady and it keeps leaning out so I would say we do have an air leak you know it's either between the car or the engine or potentially one of the seals or maybe the base gasket so I'm going to actually pull this cover off we'll get the bar off completely and I want to restart it and just spray a little bit of starting fluid down by the crank seals and also by the intake to see if there's any change in the way the engine runs because wherever the leak is it'll draw that fuel in and most likely stall the engine and that'll tell me where to focus my attention so yeah let's get this off we'll start it again and try to find that leak foreign [Music] [Music] [Music] [Music] foreign [Music] [Music] things well they've escalated a bit so let me catch you up real quick uh the last test you saw was me spraying the carb cleaner all around the crank seals the intake boot the impulse line and the base gasket and there was no change in the way the saw was running so the next step is to do a pressure test and in order to do that you have to block the exhaust as well as the intake so I cut up an old tube into two pieces and sandwiched those pieces between the exhaust and the head and the intake and the head so now the crank case is sealed with the exception of the impulse line and now we can apply pressure to see if there's any leaks so let me show you what I found so I'm plugged into the impulse line I'm just going to pump it up to 7 PSI I guess first off see if we can make it there and if we do does it hold we're holding steady no issues so I'm going to let the pressure out and I'm going to switch to pull a vacuum and we'll pump it up to seven you see we're not pulling a vacuum so we definitely have a leak when trying to pull a vacuum but not when building pressure so right now I have no issues going up to seven or even higher it holds just fine but if I rotate the crankshaft Watch What Happens that air starts leaking out so we do have a bad seal on the crankshaft and I pulled off the flywheel and if I spray it with water you'll see the issue this is actually soapy water so I'm going to pump it up again and we have a massive leak out of that seal and this saw is basically brand new so I really wasn't expecting that so we do need a new crank seal you know potentially this one was not installed right so I'll take a look at that in a minute and the other issue is the flywheel itself I buzzed this nut off and didn't seem to come off without issue but now that it's off I went to put it back on and it pretty much drops in place like the threads are gone I'm pretty sure it's the nut threads that are gone so I'm gonna have to run to the hardware store and get a new nut and hope for the best so in the interim let's get this plate off take a look at that seal and see if there's anything we can do to stop that leak there is a problem with the seal I'm not sure it shows up really on the camera but this side of the seal it's slightly below the level of the aluminum and on this side it's actually sitting proud so this seal is crooked and that that might be causing this issue so I need to drive this side down just a bit and we can recheck it see if it's working any better fixing that seal did not fix the issue I think the damage is already done so we do need a new crankshaft seal at least on this side you know get a set just in case you know most likely the clutch side has damaged as well but I don't want to pull the clutch unless I absolutely have to you know given what happened here I am a little bit gun shy so I'm going to make a trip to the store see if I can find the right thread pitch nut hopefully have a higher grade material and see if the threads on the crankshaft are still good and there's an up close look at the threads on the crank and they do look good you know I don't think we have the issue on the crank but if I put the nut on that was on there I think you'll see the issue it pretty much can drop all the way down without having to screw it on so that is a little discouraging but I'm pretty sure it's the nut just got back from the hardware store and I picked up an M8 1.0 and this is a hard item to find in this country they did have one thankfully it's a great eight not exactly the right nut for this crank but really I just wanted to see that it engages the threads and just doesn't drop in place and that I would say engages the threads on the crank so yeah at least the crank is good and I'm going to spend a little time try to find the correct one which would be serrated with a flange on the bottom so we're not dead in the water yet a seal kit showed up today and it contains everything needed to rebuild this engine and it was only eight bucks and that eight dollars actually bought me two kits so technically this kit was only four bucks which makes this seal about 50 cents so let's just get it out make sure it's the right part yep seems like it's going to be fine so to get the old seal out I need to drill a hole right in the center of the seal being careful not to Nick the outer race or the crankshaft or drive the drill bit too far and damage the bearing underneath and once that hole is there you can thread in a screw like a wood screw and just pull the seal out or if you have a pick you can also pull the seal out so I'm going to use the pick and we'll just put a little hole right there and we're not through yet there we go I can actually see the defect in the seal if you look kind of on this side you'll see it's not completely round it is distorted and that is why the seal was not working anyway I'm going to spend a second clean up the surfaces I want to make sure the new seal has a nice clean surface so that we don't get any leaks kind of surprised actually to see a ball bearing in here I mean a chainsaw should have one but at the price of this uh I wasn't sure if I was going to see it so that should be good this is nice and clean I'm just going to add a little bit of oil to the seal on the inner and outer race and tap that in place two stroke oil might be a better choice here but I am all out so motor oil will have to do so let's check this again we'll start with the pressure test will pump it up to about 7 PSI and it's not perfect it's a lot better it is dropping very slowly though so let's just double check the seal that we put in there make sure it's not still leaking don't see any bubbles let's just rotate the crank a little and I say that crank seal is good but we are losing pressure slowly it's just below five and a few seconds ago I pumped it up to seven so we do still have a leak let's check the vacuum and we cannot build a vacuum so I guess the question is where is the other leak you know I'm willing to bet it's the other crank seal and there's really no way to double check it unless we get the clutch off so let's pull the spark plug out I'm going to put some rope in there just to lock the engine up and then we'll try to get the clutch off without stripping any threads and we'll double check the crank seal under there and for something like a chainsaw ideally you'd use a piston stop it's something you just screw into the spark plug hole and it makes physical contact with the piston when the engine turns over and that prevents the engine from rotating and makes getting that clutch off a lot easier and the concern here is that two strokes have ports on the side so if you're not careful you could get the Rope caught in those ports so in this case I actually rotated the engine so that the Piston was about halfway to the top and I'm hoping that will minimize the chance of the Rope getting hung up and hopefully I don't destroy this clutch there is an arrow here it's almost impossible to make out but I believe it's a righty Lucy In this case that is on there [Applause] foreign [Applause] but we're in foreign seal is also bad let's just double check the other one and no leaks from this new one so to get this one replaced we're going to have to remove the oil pump and then we should be able to pull this one out just like we did the other side I think I'm going to just leave that on there we have the clearance we need and this seal is seated so it is really surprising this saw has very little use and yet we have two bad seals anyway this one's much more narrow so I'm going to use a much smaller drill bit and pull it out the same way this one's deformed as well in that corner very interesting so this one may not go on as easy the other side the crankshaft was tapered so it went on without an issue and this side has a shoulder so I might have to come up with something to transition it onto the shoulder or else it could fold the seal but we do have two so let's try the easy way first I think that's it Let's test it again let's start with the vacuum test we couldn't build any pressure last time I tried this and I have no issue getting up to 7 PSI and it's holding fairly steady so I think we're good let's just try adding some positive pressure good enough for me not perfect but it is a million times better than what it was so I think this saw is going to run quite a bit better so let's clean this up a little bit put everything back together and see if it runs any better foreign so I am going to torque the flywheel down but I don't know the torque spec on it and to be honest I don't want to go that tight you know given what happened with the nut you know if this was a name brand saw I'd bring it up close to 20 foot-pounds if I didn't have an exact spec for this I'm going to do half that I'd say yeah I'd rather have the flywheel loosen up and Shear the flywheel key then strip out the threads on the crank and we're already there I'll push my luck let's bring it up to 140. good enough gonna double check the compression I've removed the rubber from each side so the engine can breathe normally now I'm not going to use my trusty Harbor Freight kit this one I've used for years and it hasn't let me down on larger engines but as we saw on really small small engines it's not a good choice so I picked up a Mighty Vac compression tester and the big difference here is the Schrader valve down where it screws into the engine so this should reduce a much more accurate result on any engine and especially something like this that's so small foreign What compression we have and since it runs I'm going to go out on a limb and say it's going to be over a hundred yeah that's that's some good compression we're over 130 say about 1 32. so 132 PSI it's a big difference from the 40. that the other kit showed I think we're almost home free here there's really only one issue left well actually two now the first one is this safety it has never worked since I've had the saw the idea of it is you're supposed to hold that down before you can pull the trigger the issue is it stays down and even bigger issue is that this linkage is somehow now disconnected or not connected properly to the trigger so I'm going to pull this cover off there's a screw right underneath here and I believe this should just lift off and then we can reconnect things the way that they should be and this looks like an easy fix there's a spring right here that actually should be underneath between those two plastic tabs right there so that should go right back in without issue and as far as the linkage for the carburetor you can see that metal rod down in there it's not in the right spot there's actually a whole kind of right there or I think that linkage belongs so let's fix those two things and then I think I think we'll be ready all right so that Rod is all set then this piece should go there with the spring underneath like that and this cap actually holds the rod in place that piece right there now we're together throttle is locked and now it moves fully perfect let's give this a try I've got the carb reinstalled as well as the spark plug now I actually don't think this is gonna start because if you remember the Jets on the original carb they were turned out quite a bit over two turns and this carb the new one I think is even worse and now that the leaks have been fixed all the air is going to be drawn through the carburetor so it's going to be air and fuel coming through and having those needles out as far as they are they were compensating for those leaks and now that those are fixed I think we're going to be running too rich so most likely I'm going to have to run those in to get it to idle properly so let's give it a try joke on actually we'll lock the throttle foreign [Applause] holy cow all right that was not expected the clutch unthreaded itself so I clearly did not tighten that up enough and I don't know where all the pieces are and even if I did this spring is now mangled so we need a new clutch for sure anyway let's start it again and make sure we at least have a good engine let's give this another try get the throttle locked choke on and hopefully we don't lose any more parts this time yes [Music] it's kind of acting like it's starving for fuel again interesting so right now I am pulling the fuel tank from the saw I lost a video clip which kind of explains why I'm doing this the last clip you saw was me trying to run this engine and it was acting like it was starving for fuel so I double checked the impulse line with the Mighty Vac we had an Impulse so that was not an issue I then tried to siphon fuel from the tank using the fuel line and the tank was full yet I was only getting air from that siphon so that told me there is an issue with the fuel line and the only way to service the fuel line is to get the tank uninstalled foreign [Music] [Music] there it is you can see the hole right there so yeah this line is shot and it's a little different from most lines in that there's kind of a Barb and an inverted Barb on the other side which kind of locks this in place it's actually a good design but really the only way to remove it is to cut it out and I'm hoping I can put a standard line in its place otherwise these are available on eBay they're only like six dollars so let's cut this one out yeah that's what I was afraid of this opening it is much too large not really the standard for chainsaws so if I use a standard chainsaw line it is quite loose in there it's not going to make a seal and even if I grab a larger line something I would use on a generator although it fits better there is still a gap there and that's going to leak not that it matters anyway because this fuel filter and really all chainsaw fuel filters are not a good fit they're just going to fall right out and then you're going to have issues with the saw so as much as it pains me to do it I need to order the correct part and actually I need to order a few parts I need the air filter the air box cover and a new clutch apparently but I don't want to order any of those parts until this saw runs properly so let me pause it we'll order this part put this back together and hopefully we'll hear this thing run properly at this point I would say we're well past the hour mark on this video and what do we have to show I mean the saw has not been torn down more at any point than it is right now we basically have a chainsaw carcass and a box full of Parts you know that said I think this is the final piece of the puzzle at least I hope it is so let's get it installed and try this again I realized when I showed this line earlier it was a little out of focus so you can see right there that is the part that was really letting in the air but even if you look at the rest of the line it was in pretty bad shape and I did test this initially way back in the beginning of the video and it didn't have a leak and on that lost footage what I found was that if I held the line a certain way it would siphon fuel right out of the tank and of course if you moved it the other way so that all these cracks opened up it would pull just air anyway for the new line I'm just going to use a bit of oil to help with the installation and this one is a lot softer too than the one that was in there so we'll just add a little bit of oil put that in we need to take the cap off so we can pull it through and there we go and that should fix that problem so I'm going to fast forward I'm going to get this reassembled back to where it was the last time we tried testing it and hopefully this time we get a better result I'm going to bring the torque up a bit on the flywheel right now it's at 140 inch pounds you know I'd feel better at 180 it's pretty small though the the Fastener I think it's it was an M8 1.0 so I don't want to go crazy on it but after what happened with the clutch I think a little extra torque would be an order foreign foreign all back together at least to where we were before so let's pull it over see if it'll start choke on lock the throttle [Music] [Applause] let's try it with the choke off thank you foreign nice let's try it again this time we'll adjust the jetting a little bit if we can [Music] foreign [Music] that's all I needed to hear these saw it is idling properly it's revving up it's doing what it should do so the jetting it's actually not that far off you know I tried to tweak it it stalled out and honestly I don't think I'm gonna try to tweak it anymore right now we need to get an air filter the air box cover I need to install the cooling and of course get a new clutch so let me get those things and then we'll finish it up I think we're ready to finish this thing up the new clutch came today and included with that was a new needle bearing you know together shipping included only seven bucks and I also located an air filter and an air box cover that I think will work for this saw together these things were only eight dollars shipping included and I also picked up a new side cover the old one clearly has been run for some time with the brake on and the plastic melted and became distorted to the point where this band break isn't really on the drum anymore so it's ineffective and this was also Dirt Cheap I think 11 bucks so I say we get the saw fully back together and get it outside and see what it can do I'm going to start just by getting the clutch back on so I'm just putting some grease on the new needle bearing we'll get that installed then we can put the drum on the washer and then the clutch itself foreign and this time I actually bought a tool that'll let me tighten that up so let me pull the spark plug we'll get some rope in there and just make sure that the clutch is actually tight this time so this kit actually came with a piston stop so I'm going to give that a try I've always had some reservation about using such a thing because you're really putting trust in the threads for the spark plug that they are strong enough to survive a bit of torque which yeah I'm not sure I trust it on this saw but I guess we'll find out how good the threads are I think that'll do can't actually use a torque wrench on this because my click style torque wrench only works with right-handed threads not with left so yeah I might have to upgrade but for now that'll have to do foreign foreign ah so close it's well it's the wrong color but more importantly it's not a good fit so I guess the good news is we have an air filter that seems to fit but not the correct air box so I need to shop around find something a little bit better well I did scour the internet quite a bit looking for a better cover yet unfortunately I struck out this is the best we're gonna get you know that said I did find something that's going to help us get a little closer this filter it's pretty big and it's preventing the cover from going fully down so I did find a smaller version of this filter and this actually is going to help things quite a bit because it fits better it's a lower profile and even though this cover is too long it at least goes on all the way now it's not being held up by the air filter the only thing kind of holding it up now is just the plastic tabs right in the front that don't fit right here because the cover is too long so I'm going to cut those tabs off and we'll see what that gives us My Hope Is that we can get it to fit at least good enough for a short-term fix and with any luck you know the proper cover will turn up at some point [Music] [Music] [Music] [Music] oh yeah I wouldn't call it ideal but it is the best we've got and certainly better than nothing so let's get it outside I want to get the saw warmed up and then we'll tune the carb a little bit and put it to work see how it does all right so now it's the Moment of Truth time to find out if it was worth all the effort so I'm gonna get the saw started we'll let it warm up a bit you know potentially I might adjust the carb a bit you know right now it is set pretty close to the way the original carb was set so I think we're pretty close so once it's warmed up I'll try cutting the small log right here and assuming it goes well and the chain is sharp and the engine doesn't have issues then I'll move on to something a little bit bigger and see how it does it's been about a week since I last started this [Music] [Music] um [Applause] [Music] [Applause] [Music] [Applause] [Music] [Applause] [Music] all right [Applause] [Music] [Applause] [Music] it did pretty well on those two test Cuts you know I wanted to say the chain though is exactly sharp it does need to be sharpened and the chain did loosen up as well when making those cuts so let's correct those issues real quick and try it again foreign [Music] [Music] [Music] [Music] [Music] I don't know [Music] oh my God [Applause] [Music] [Applause] [Music] [Applause] foreign [Applause] [Music] all right [Music] [Applause] [Music] [Applause] [Music] [Applause] [Music] wow [Music] that's a big difference a sharp chain makes it made quick work of a small log and had no issues going through the larger ones so you know at this point I would say we are a hundred percent and for a while you know I didn't think we were going to get there I went into this assuming it was going to be a tear down video based on what the owner said about running straight fuel in this machine and thankfully this saw had an unbelievable amount of issues preventing it from running you know we had a questionable carburetor a clogged impulse line cracked fuel line and two bad crank seals so was it worth fixing yeah I guess that answer depends because you couldn't bring this to a shop the labor rate for the repair would have exceeded the value of the saw very quickly and if you know how to do the work you know I guess the good news is the parts are really cheap for about twenty five dollars I got this up and running fully and I did have to spend another 25 dollars to replace the missing parts the air filter the air filter cover the damaged clutch and the damaged side cover so in the end it was fifty dollars to bring this machine back you know was it worth it yeah I guess that's for you to decide you know in the end I would say you get what you pay for I mean I have a 40 year old steal I have done nothing to it other than basic maintenance has the original carb the original lines the original crank seals and it has never given me a problem so yeah you get what you pay for so I hope this video helps someone thanks for watching I just wanted to take a second and thank Ken Tom Stella Henry and Pete you know early on in this project I was on a call with that group of people they are all excellent Small Engine mechanics and have more experience than I do when it comes to two-stroke engines anyway the topic of the saw came up and we discussed kind of the problems that I was having with it and that group brainstormed and came up with a lot of great ideas on things to check and I dare say if I hadn't have had their assistance then things may have turned out differently anyway they all have their own YouTube channels so I'm going to leave links to them down in the description and if you like small engines which I think you do you might want to check out their channel so thank you guys for the help and I definitely learned a lot on this one

Channel: James Condon

Views: 1,123,895

Keywords: 4500, 45cc, 5200, 52cc, 5800, 58cc, Air Leak, Borescope, Broken, Carburetor, Chainsaw, Chinese Chainsaw, Clutch Removal, Compression Test, Crank Seal, Fixed, Flywheel Removal, Fuel Line, G5800, Garbage, How To, How-To, Impulse Line, Junk, Low Compression, Pressure Test, Repair, Running Lean, Small Engine, Starving For Fuel, Surging, Trouble, Troubleshooting, Vacuum Test, Will It Run, Will Not Rev, Blue Max, Farmertec, JonCutter, KW-5800, KraftWorld

Id: chEqXHjCM64

Length: 110min 8sec (6608 seconds)

Published: Thu Jul 13 2023