- Is that your gear?
- That's my gear! Look, it's dedicated by Jennie! It's crazy! LOIC: How many wedding
dresses did you make? I don't know, I didn't count. About ten. LOIC: About ten? No more? It's half the time for
us. One per 2 seasons. It’s beautiful,
I’m waiting to see the show. If there are plants I usually love it anyway.
It's gorgeous, it's green, it's beautiful! 3,2,1 go! -What is your role at CHANEL? I am the head of the haute
couture tailoring workshop. I have a team of about 48 people. And our second
role as first workshop is to work with customers. We do the tests, the orders, the technical
advice. It is a pretty demanding profession. - Do you travel a lot?
- Yes. - Are you going to do fittings abroad? It can be New York, Hong Kong, it can be
Dubai - depends on where the customers are. This is the first look that is worn by Vittoria,
it is an intertwining of fibers. It's two fabrics. We have a very dense fabric. And here we have a
fabric that is very light on the drawing level. There is a lot of work on the belts
and on the pocket tops. At the cuffs. There are three folds which are very fine and
which emphasize the pelvis of the silhouette. LOIC: I thought there were two pieces. There are not two pieces. It is a dress. We have
the impression that it has a jacket and a skirt. We have this collar which is made of cotton pique.
These are biased strips, it's very delicate to make! LOIC: Like in tennis polo shirts? It's a bit like that. But it's cotton
pique so it's much more delicate. LOIC: The lining was put on at the
last moment, was it like yesterday? Last night. - At the last moment?
- Very last moment. - Can we see the label?
- Just there. And There you go. - What's written there? The season, the model number and the
name of the workshop. Madame Jacqueline. - Is there a little chain down there? Not for dresses. Not for
dresses. We simulated a slit. So that it does not open,
it is closed at the bottom of the folds. - Of the folds?
- It’s technical. It's not easy because for it to be light, there is a lot
of work of removing fibers, to thin it - it's meticulous! When you see it like
that you don't realize it. Look the buttons are beautiful too! When you look at it,
it's like there is a chain at the bottom of the button. It resumes the reeds on
the ancient soils of Aubazine. When you close the jacket you put a press button, so
that it looks neat. It is done to embellish the model. There is something that’s beautiful too, we
took up the idea of the wires we made a "cord" and we put it in finish all
around to frame the jacket, the pockets and the sleeves. It gives the illusion that it is the
fabric that ends like this but in fact it is something that is added. - What is the name of the material?
- I just know there is cotton in it, a lot. - Is it a whole new creation?
- A total creation. - It doesn't even exist in stores, I imagine?
- Of course not! This is a fabric that has the impression of stained
glass to represent the stained glass windows of Aubazine. - I don't understand,
what's going down there? It's sequins. It is a weaving in which sequins are slipped
inside and the sequins move. They live, they can move. - They're covered by some kind of caning?
- Yes. Caning of silicone? No, it's a fiber, a thread. And you see the
reverse is white because the fabric was painted. There is the chain in this one. - I don't see how the chain is hung? This is a work of art. We don't see it,
it's sewn! - Where's that?
- Take a good look at the thread. LOIC: I just saw it! There is one thread over here. And like one thread on this side
so that it does not move. Everything is clean. Great delicacy. - It takes a long time to do?
- Over two hours. This is great and it represents the
stained glass windows of Aubazine. I love this season because all the
dresses are light and transparent. There are a lot of games of black and white
in full dresses like that, like this one. The hanger is heavier than the dress! - Can I try? It weighs nothing!
- It’s like a feather. - Is it a guipure on a tulle background? That's it. On a background of silk tulle,
petticoat. You know it well! - Where are we? We are at the beginning of Chanel's history.
We are before Chanel. We are at Coco's. Where the signs started to stir in
her head to make it what we know. I find it beautiful. And the idea of sheets
for example. This kind of irony of the convent. The boarding school creates an atmosphere
of immense nostalgia. We are in the legend. LOIC: What do you think of this
set? Do you know what it's for? It is the heath of Corrèze, you recognize rosemary
for example. Do you know aromatic herbs, Loic? LOIC: Not really. It smells super good! It’s rosemary, come on! LOIC: It's a perfect smell in the morning. Aubazine is a village near Brive with a Cistercian
church, a strong, beautiful Cistercian abbey. Inspiring stained glass windows for Chanel. And
above all, there is the Chanel paradox at Aubazine! That is to say both the eternal black
and white religious of the young boarder but there are also the garments of pageantry
of religious holidays, sumptuous embroidery, and there is a contrast which obviously
testifies to all this history of Chanel couture. This dress was made in the workshop. There is quite
a work of pleats. The belt is also made with pleats. - Did you do that in the workshop?
- Yes. We did some research and then
we how some samples to Virginie. - It looks like dominoes falling.
- Yes almost! - It's hellish origami, right?
- It takes a long time to do, yes. - You dream about it?
- It’s a sewing workshop job. LOIC: There is a layer of
veil. And there we see below. Yes,
it is the loose pleats that give volume. LOIC: What is it? Organza on silk tulle. Embroidery is silk
tulle with tops like that. And a handmade pattern. - It's painted underneath!
- It is light, it weighs nothing. A puzzle. This skirt has no darts. To silhouette
the body they were made on the bottom. We tightened everything with dots so that we
don’t see large pliers that cut the pattern. It can't be seen but it's a headache. - Only you and the client will know. I don't even know if the client will know,
it's our secret! It’s a beautiful embroidery
from the Montex workshops. LOIC: Is there only one button,
or is there also one below? Yes invisible! LOIC: What are these buttons,
it looks like they frosted. We have a whole range of button samples and Virginie
puts them according to colors, embroidery, fabrics. Another sublime dress from Lemarié. LOIC: I can see the difference
between the two, with and without a belt. LOIC: There are two fabrics,
two embroideries, two different pieces. Exactly this one is embroidered on organza, this
one on muslin to give lightness to the skirt. It’s a great job. LOIC: Can I lift it? I’ll be
able to say that I wore it. This one should be heavier
than the previous one! LOIC: Frankly, it's not heavy,
we're less heavy than a puffer jacket. - Is there a bustier inside?
- Yes. - Is it handmade?
- Built by hand. All haute couture preparation is done by hand
and once we are sure, we sew. At the last moment. - When was this dress finished?
- Last night. - Did you finish late?
- No, around 10 p.m. - It’s fine.
- I had 17 models to make. It is said that the Chanel logo would be
inspired by an intertwined stained glass. It’s a dress by Lemarié and Montex. All the
embroideries are inspired by the Aubazine theme. We can find the floor, the stained glass. It is a pretty
embroidery as it’s layers of tulles with handpainted flowers. You can see the sublime
stained glass windows by Montex. - Is there ever a literal CC? There
are interlaces but not the literal CC. You have to see it, guess it. This season, dresses play with
black and white transparency. Flesh-colored so you don't see the whale bones
structure. The bustier is made of silk tulle. To make it light and transparent. All the whale bones are inserted in
flesh-colored tubes so that no trace can be seen. LOIC: People in the comments have asked me
if whale bones were made with actual bones. Obviously! LOIC: Don't say that because
they'll believe it. What is it made of? This one is plastic. Sometimes it’s made
of metal. But here we needed transparency. LOIC: How is it going to close? There is a zip in the bustier and in the dress.
It’s worn like a cape so we left it open. - Like a fold.
- There are also some pretty jewelry buttons. LOIC: How many layers? Under the dress there is a petticoat of silk tulle on which the
dress lies to give volume. And the dress from below, all in lace. - Is it simple lace?
- Yes. Above you have the dress. The lace is ennobled by an
artist. It is a lace from Solstice and it is handcrafted. It was two strips of lace that we joined and sent back to the
artist, who remade a strip to make it neat and well finished. Then it came back and we
were able to continue the dress. It was lace bands that were not
predestined to be used in this way. LOIC: It's a Chanel code
for dresses to end like that. Yes, with the teeth of the lace. LOIC: Is this a lot of work? Yes, it’s tricky. It’s fragile, you have to be careful.
You need good hands and we only have good hands! LOIC: How many people have
worked on this dress in your workshop? Two people who rigged the toile
and a person who made the dress. - So it's collective.
- Yes, all the dresses are collective. LOIC: But you make the toiles? I do them with my seconds
and two toile makers. - How do I get hired?
- You will have to pass a test! LOIC: If my cousin is a bridesmaid
and she wants to buy this dress? She makes an appointment with our Haute Couture saleswoman.
She comes into the salons and we take a measurement. We create a mannequin with her measurements, on which
we will work the toile. We do a first fitting in toile. A second fitting in fabric. And a
third fitting that is more advanced. Then we deliver the stitched and
finished dress. Two or three fittings. LOIC: But she lives far away and
she can't come. How do we do it? We come to her. We always come to see the client. LOIC: It increases the price of the dress! We don't care! LOIC: What is your job at Chanel? A bit of everything! LOIC: You’re one of the head
seamstresses of the flou workshop? Yes, there are two flou workshops. LOIC: What does a flou workshop mean? Everything that is thin, light fabric. Evening
and afternoon dresses like that in a thin crepe. - Is that the wedding dress?
- Yes, with its tiny tulle collars. LOIC: What is the white
line at the end of the collar? A dot made by machine to
finish the tulle with a white line. The fabric is difficult to work because
it is thin. It slips in the fingers. - What is the name of the fabric?
- Georgette crêpe. - Who did the pleating?
- We did at the atelier. - Why did you do it yourself?
- Because we are Haute Couture! - You know how to make pleats.
- Yes we learned too. - There are ateliers in Paris that make pleats.
- Yes but they are handmade by us. - And did you add a belt?
- Yes Virginie had belts embroidered by Lesage. - The belt is on, right?
- Yes posed by flanged points. You see they are loose so that
they position themselves and fit. LOIC: How is it closed where
there are no more visible buttons? It's a secret. There is an invisible zip. And a little stapling. - These are theater buttons.
- Transparent Combinas as we call them. And then there are
jewelry buttons to decorate. - How long to make this dress?
- Some time. - Weeks or months?
- Weeks. And then the veil,
magnificent work of the Lesage workshops. - I thought I saw Chanel logos.
- Only arcs of circles. - Are they feathers?
- It's tulle. We supplied the tulle and the Lesage workshops did everything.
It was simple for us. They’ve got the all job done! LOIC: It’s Virginie who
define how much decoration? We go to the studio and show a drawing, Virginie
decides their place, less blue, more pink… LOIC: If I buy it to get married, are you
coming to my wedding to help me make it perfect? Of course we come. - Do you come yourself?
- Yes it's me. - Even if I get married far away?
- Anywhere! We follow the dress until the ceremony. The show was sublime. It’s pure,
simple, feminine. Humble and at the same time powerful,
magnificent. What I found interesting was that
even if a piece seems simple it never is. There is a beige suit,
a jacket and a skirt in tweed. We totally expect that at Chanel. And then a veil covers everything
like a dream or a memory. At a Chanel show, we are attentive to
everything, from the set, to the girls walking. The dresses, the music. The staging,
the general atmosphere. The people who are invited.
Every detail counts at Chanel. LOIC: Did you cry at
your wedding dress or not? Each time, even when it wasn’t me. She’s so cute. She’s thought she walked
in the wrong direction. I found it poetic,
romantic, a little gothic. Something pure and Victorian at times
with long collars and puffy shoulders. It was a dream, I loved it. And glasses! I love these glasses! LOIC: They're crazy, they suit
you too well. Almost Cruella de Vil. I feel like being Cruella de Vil!
