Caterpillar D4 steering clutch and bevel shaft rebuild (part 1 of 2)

the day i've been dreading for a while has finally arrived it's time to rebuild the steering clutch bevel gear shaft assembly and this is for a 1950 caterpillar d47 there's the assembly and i was waiting for this puller to come in this is the second puller i ordered the first one got lost and this one was lost for a while i had to call fedex and i very calmly asked them to send me my my package didn't even have to use the outside voice and it finally showed up so usa made with global parts well that sounds exotic this thing's pretty big anyway i've kind of been not looking forward to this because apparently it's hard a little bit dangerous a lot of people have been warning me about it but i think i have all the right stuff to do we'll find out here pretty soon won't we what do you think charlie can we do this in one video what are you thinking one video okay three videos here we go part one of three all right really quickly here's what i've ordered for it before starting so i got these are bearings for the throw out collars these are the main bearings and then i got new springs new clutch discs and then new seals so that should be everything on here really the only wild card the studs that run through these springs sometimes i hear those can get bent and then the holes that those studs run through on this drum those can also be kind of ovaled out and you have to replace the drum so we'll see we'll see how those look but everything else is basically should be okay and will get replaced these bearings i used the cat part number and i found a few suppliers but they were all out and i think the price was 40 45 bucks each so i looked at the trade number the little you know part number on the side of the bearing and it was a timken 555s and i looked just online on like ebay and i found a bunch of them for for like 20 bucks each so these are really old but they uh they look okay in there they're not rusty or anything so uh yeah it's a 555s cone bearing hopefully they fit i mean it's the same part number it should in a previous video i bought this porta power this is a generic chinese made port of power goes up to 10 000 psi though which is what i need and i also bought two rams i got a 20 ton low profile ram and a 30 ton this is a hollow ram here unfortunately this is not going to work as i'd hoped or as as planned because i don't there's no gauge on it so there's no way to tell how much actual power i'm putting down and when i go and press these hubs onto this bevel shaft here you have to set it kind of with a somewhat specific amount of force which is going to be 10 tons in my case and there's other stuff i need to press on too with specific force so at the time i also bought this gauge this is a 10 000 psi gauge here which will tell me you know if i'm using the 30 ton and i'm at 5000 psi then it's 15 ton and it just just scales like that so i was gonna install that and then i got to thinking about it and i said well you know what is a normal hydraulic system right now it's like 3000 psi so all the fittings i bought i mean what are they rated for so this is uh one of the fittings i got or i actually had on hand and i went and looked it up and sure enough these fittings are not even close to rated to 10 000 psi so i mean the usually it's like something like that would be maybe 6 000 and then it would have a burst pressure of four times that uh but a t is is way less than that so i did some fine looking around online and i found this tee from pack uh here's the part part number so enterpak actually makes porter powers um this that's kind of what one of the things they do so uh this is rated for i believe over 10 000 psi it's a very thick wall well-made piece there just as an example here's a straight these are both straight fittings the one on the right is a standard hydraulic fitting and this is a high pressure one you can hopefully see that the wall thickness is uh maybe i don't know 50 bigger or thicker so i don't know i might be overthinking this whole thing but um i figured i'll go ahead and play it safe i just you know top goals of 2021 would be not getting shot in the face by 10 000 psi of hydraulic fluid because you know i'm gonna be standing here pumping this and in and you know this is what two feet from my face this thing wasn't even really that tight on there so i might need to top it off with fluid because i did lose a little bit but we'll see if it leaks under load obviously the gauge isn't even getting moving from this final little safety step here i wrap this sheet metal around all those fittings just so if it does uh rupture hopefully it doesn't shoot right at my face maybe it'll shoot that way that would be uh that'd be ideal probably okay well i've already pulled off there was the this nut here and then these are the lock lock bolts so i've pulled those out and then in the holes where the lock bolts go i'm gonna put this this is just a grade five all thread the polar arms on that puller are fine thread so this should still work though all right i'm i'm not reinventing the wheel here by the way i found a guide online that was pretty uh helpful it was a picture guide so i'm going to do it kind of the way they did it uh this is an aluminum block by the way so it should keep these this and from hopefully mushrooming and then i'm gonna put my ram here and then i'll just put the polar arms right here [Music] and then i'll just run a few nuts down on each side and give it a shot nice so i guess we'll give this a shot and see what happens i think the wink link in this system is going to be either that all thread and those nuts or that i maxed out the 20 ton we'll find out so i'll be hiding behind that post charlie i'm going to dial 9-1 on this phone if something happens you hit 1 and send let's get this let's try it out we're at uh about 2000 psi and this is 6 000 we're about hitting that's six thousand nine thousand i'm getting close to ten that's just i think the pump's giving out it's not holding it all right well that's not gonna work well the good news is that my hydraulic press didn't explode into my face um unfortunately the 20-ton ram did not work on here i kind of wasn't expecting it let me just kind of talk over the numbers of what i'm doing here though so this is 5 8 coarse threaded all thread this is grade 5 so there's charts of this stuff online but if you look it up it's good for two of them you're good to about 19 and a half tons before it starts to stretch so i probably got to about 19 before my press started bottoming out so i'm gonna have to switch over using the 30 ton hollow ram which is going to be a little bit rough because the spacing here is four and a half inches and this thing is just a nudge over but i think i can squeeze it in there and then uh since i'm using 30 ton i'm gonna have to switch over to grade eight all thread which i had to order and uh grade eight all thread should get me up to about 27 tons before it starts to give way so if this thing isn't popping loose by about 25 tons i'm probably going to go ahead and shut it down and find another way to get it off so at least with this way i can use this nut and screw this back on and this is going to act as the stop to keep this drum from launching off like a rocket ship once it breaks free if it breaks free so i'll just give it a few threads there so it doesn't get hurt and this is the grade 8 all thread that i'm screwing in yeah it's not going to want to ride on here so we're gonna have to go up higher all right here we go make sure i'm well hidden behind this pillar here where are we at right now uh 4 000 psi [Music] it's 5 000. six thousand and that was it that that kind of scared me a little bit all right well uh so six thousand psi is is i was about to actually release the pressure but it was right at six thousand so a six thousand that's six sixty percent of 30 ton would be 18 18 tons so i must have been really close before with that other with that other uh ram just oh oh oh there it goes all right so this come off now this this needs some cleanup that's for sure what is this so there so this is the bearing cup oh this is the seal so i have a new seal this is really nasty out here so unfortunately my new bearings do not have a new cone to ride in and these actually look not good there's some pitting in here and definitely fails the fingernail test so i'll have to see if i can find a bearing with a cone this stuff's all pretty gross i think this is just supposed to oh yeah i can see it's loose this is just kind of not pressed on it's just sitting on here someone put some force on this to get this off before so i this thing is i said there were scratches on but i think it's fine it just sits up here and i think it just keeps oil from it keeps oil on this uh bearing that's its only real purpose so it doesn't need to be perfect um so really it's coming down just to the bearing getting this bearing off i think i have the perfect size uh puller for this though let me find it real quick [Music] there we go all right this is going to be a little janky even by my standards but there's just no space to get under here and this this uh shaft's too long to get a normal size puller on so i got a couple leftover head head nuts from the original engine and i'm just going to stick them in here just to hook them in with a couple spots here where you can get them in here and then i'll use the legs that came with the puller which are 5 8 fine which should thread into here [Music] all right here we go [Music] got some pressure on it i'm going to heat it up a little bit and see if it it'll pop off here [Music] [Music] okay well i got these two nuts welded on i seriously doubt this is gonna work i don't think my welder has enough juice to penetrate this or it's just doesn't like that kind of steel it just is not getting a good weld on there [Music] oh [Music] [Music] okay there's not much left here so let me just try to get this press back on here and see if this pops it coming yes it's coming off now we can see how much damage i did cutting it so on this video i'm only going to do just the side this is the hardest side to do because of this bearing but the other side is going to be exactly the same i'm doing one set at a time so i can uh make sure i'm putting it back together right by having it as a reference plus it's a lot easier to work with it like this instead of sitting on its side there we go so yeah there's a little bit of a gouge right here nothing on the other side and then the only other fudges are right here and here that's completely fine right there so that could have been a lot worse but i did get it off the other side i can use a puller on a lot easier the seal out first here there we go [Music] yeah well you know i think my welder's just not strong enough it just didn't loosen up at all either that or just this is too thick of a race here so [Music] got a snap ring i'm not sure what that really retains looks like this maybe gets hit off appears to be some kind of retaining screw in here okay this is uh 4b 9820 wrench also known as a 7 64 or 7 yeah 764 force allen wrench takes these screws out okay this a lot of moisture in this bearing i can see the new bearing is like a plastic retainer i don't think it really matters but it's i'm interested to see if this is a an original bearing or what this is so i am cheating here i bought this tool just because i don't want to screw around with springs flying off of here and hit me in the face so it goes like this or this i think it goes this way and uh so this will go here you know i was gonna do all thread on here like through it but i have to block these studs off because if you press compress the springs they're just gonna um these studs are gonna pop out the back but this is off my press and i can get as long as i take an even number of springs out like right there so i can get four springs out and then leave these the last two and do those as a second pass just as long as it's symmetrical so this should actually yeah it's going in easy so the ones on the sides where there's no backing um let's see if you can see this [Applause] those ones are not compressing but these ones are so i'm gonna go ahead and keep my face away from here so that's good enough there i can pop those retainers out and then if we look under the bottom i'm not gonna look under there but i'm assuming they're sticking out for studs okay the retainers out see if i can suck them out with these magnets here i got these for the drain plugs these are rare earth really strong magnets anything that keeps my face out of here all right that is one two three four five six seven eight that's eight so i'm gonna let this up is there anything worse than springs so here's the old springs let me get those in frame there and the new springs are here so so the big one's actually pretty close but the short one is about a quarter inch longer which just means that these are probably pretty tired so i'm glad i bought new springs over here i'm gonna have a lot of stuff to clean i'm not sure how this comes apart so these holes also look round i'll check a little closer when i get them off but i think this looks this is probably okay where's the stud yeah i mean that fits in there real nice i'll check all them make sure they're not there's no wobbly ones but these all look i think these are okay and then i got a bunch of these i'm just going to go toss these right now these are probably covered in asbestos so obviously i'm glad i bought new steel discs because these are just completely destroyed they're covered in pits so this surface here is actually i can feel it feels really smooth this one has a lot of stuff build up on it i can't really tell yeah it's going to come off i'm not going to know until i clean this thing off now we've got quite the mess here and quite the mess here but i think i'm going to end the video there so off camera i'm going to clean all the stuff up and then put it back on and once this side's done i'm going to flip it around and and do the other side so it'll take me a while to clean up it's not really fun stuff to film you you don't really want to watch that well that's all the hard stuff out of the way for this the last big hurdle is going to be pressing that hub back onto this tapered shaft it needs to be done do i forget i'll have to look up i think it was 10 or 15 tons i'm gonna have to fabricate some kind of apparatus to do that i have a few ideas but we'll get back to that next video while i'm here i got the engine right in front of me here i just i was thinking about this the other day a lot of people are asking about the pony start on here so first of all there is no pony on this engine i mean it's it's supposed to be right there it's gone there was no pony on the original engine so i've been thinking about and i know a lot of people are talking about how hard it is to start cold and i appreciate that i have several like my tractor is very hard to start cold the way the pony works here is it it blows his exhaust through here at the intake there's a there's a separate pipe inside the intake manifold and then it comes out through this exhaust here and that helps heat up the intake air and then also the pony's spinning and you can engage that clutch and it spins the flywheel which it takes a long time when it's cold to heat this engine up so kind of the direction i'm thinking is since i don't have a pony i really don't want to deal with a pony i have the starter i'm thinking i have another intake right there i'm thinking about drilling a few holes in here and adding a couple grid heaters in to keep the intake charge air up and i mean it's it's not as good as probably not as good as a glow plug that's inside the pre-combustion chamber but i'm thinking if i if i'm able to heat that intake air up then that'll uh that'll you know aid in starting i am not an expert on diesel stuff i don't know i mean that's kind of the direction i'm thinking maybe if you if you know better let me know in the comments but just as a frame of reference you know out here in the northwest like right now it's almost december and it's 50 degrees outside fahrenheit it does not get cold here i feel like i'm almost over the the hump here on the hard stuff that needs to be done once the steering clutch bevel shaft is done i can put the transmission cover back on i can put the engine in i can start the engine i can work out all the stuff that i'm sure i got wrong when i was putting this together and then it's after that it's just you know clean up cosmetic stuff probably everything else which is a lot of stuff i'm sure so anyway keep an eye out for the next video and i really appreciate you watching guys thanks so much and i will be back very soon

Channel: Pacific Northwest Hillbilly

Views: 81,820

Keywords: bulldozer, caterpillar, d4, old iron, recovery, heavy equipment, tractor, d4-7u, diesel, restore, diy, D315, swap, restoration, dozer, clutch, transmission

Id: lR3zO_voYSY

Length: 23min 43sec (1423 seconds)

Published: Wed Dec 01 2021