Capture One Colour Correction for Landscape Photogrphy

hi i'm robin whalley welcome to lenscraft last week i was out in the peak district to photograph the heather at sunset i did manage a couple of shots that i liked before the light faded and the sun hit this big thick bank of cloud this has thrown out the colour balance on a lot of the images shot around that time so they're appearing a bit too pink and blue so today i'm going to walk you through my color correction for this landscape photo in capture one but before we jump into the color correction i need to make some other adjustments that are important to the overall result i'm going to start by selecting a new tone curve for the image currently this is set to auto which is picking up the camera setting i was using at the time to shoot the raw file now i shot this using the fuji xt3 which was set to use the fuji provia film simulation i find the previous simulation on the fuji has a slight pink and purple tint to it and this could be exaggerating my colour balance problems instead i'm going to change the tone curve to the film standard setting i find this opens the shadows a little bit and reduces the purple tint slightly now i can begin to balance the exposure in the image before i correct the colours that's because changing the tones in an image can often have an impact on how we see the image colours to help balance the exposure i'm just using the high dynamic range sliders because i'm most concerned about the shadows and the highlights in this image if i push the shadow slider right it opens the shadows i can then use the highlight slider to reduce the brightness in the sky by moving it left after this i just use the levels adjustment to control the black and white points in the image and then to open up the mid tones using the mid tone level by pushing it left i'm still not entirely happy with the highlights in the sky so i'm going to make some localized adjustments using a gradient mask now i'll use the highlights dynamic range slider to darken that area now that the exposure on the image is looking more balanced and less contrasty i'm ready to adjust the overall white balance i'll do this using the background layer in this image i have a nice grey rock that i can use as a white balance target if i didn't have that i'd need to adjust the kelvin and tint sliders manually to achieve the white balance i wanted when i click on the eyedropper tool in the white balance section it activates the white balance sample tool i can then click on the rock that i want to be a neutral gray color sometimes it's useful to click around a few points on the rock just to find what works best when i find a color balance that i like it gives me a starting point to refine with other color tools the areas that i want to improve further for this image are the sky which i feel still looks a bit too red also the foreground heather which i'd like to make more obvious and more colorful i'll start with the sky because i already have a selection for that now there's lots of ways i could adjust the color in the sky one way is to use the white balance controls again but rather than that i'll demonstrate using the color editor i'll start in the basic mode but might switch to the advanced mode if the basic doesn't give me enough control as with the white balance i'll select the picker tool and use it to sample the sky the area i want to adjust is near to the brightest part of the image because it looks a little bit too red there after sampling this area i can see the editor has selected the orange colour swatch now i can use the hue slider to move the orange tones in the sky towards yellow also adding a little saturation and lightness helps to keep the image adjustment looking natural this has improved the sky but i can improve it further by tweaking the white balance of the layer reducing the tint slightly removes more of the redness whilst reducing the kelvin slider then reintroduces blue to the thicker clouds now i can create a new layer with the gradient filter to select the foreground i'm going to use this to adjust the heather by first increasing the tint slider to introduce more pink into that area then i'm ready to make a targeted adjustment of the heather using the colour editor this time rather than sampling the colour and then using the sliders i'm going to click and drag with my mouse when i drag left and right i adjust the hue for the sample color if i drag up and down i'm affecting the saturation and if i hold down my alt key or my option key on a mac whilst i'm dragging left and right i can control the lightness what i want to achieve is a strong pink colour for the heather as well as making it lighter and more obvious in the scene when i have the color roughly as i want it i'm going to darken the overall image so that it doesn't look like it's now the middle of the day rather than using the exposure or brightness sliders for this i'm going to use the tone curve what i like about the tone curve is that it gives me precise control over different tonal ranges by adding a midpoint to the curve and dragging it down i can darken the entire image without affecting the black or white points because i'm using an rgb curve rather than the luma curve this adjustment intensifies the colors just a little bit further the downside to what i'm doing though is that it's closing up the shadow areas and it's making them a little bit too dark so you can't see the detail in there if i add a point to the curve on the shadow tones and then move it up i open up the shadows giving the image this softer feel after this i can go back to the adjustment layer for the foreground to refine the colour balance and tonal adjustments the image is looking a lot better so let's compare it with the starting image this looks about right so at this point i'd take the image into photoshop to apply the next level of refinement and adjustment now there are a few important points that i want to highlight about what i've done in this video first i haven't separated adjusting colors and tones by this i mean i recognize the two need to work together to achieve a finished result you can't just edit the colors and ignore the image tones second i've made temporary adjustments to the tones to allow me to work on the colours better i also haven't tried to do everything with just a quick adjustment or done it on a single layer i've built up the effect gradually thirdly i've divided the image into different areas that need different treatments that allows me to work on each one independently this gives me a greater control over the finished result and it keeps things looking natural for example i couldn't correct the colour in the sky without negatively affecting the foreground and heather i also couldn't adjust the heather without affecting the sky finally i'm not trying to achieve a finished image in a single tool capture one is my raw converter it's extremely powerful and it can achieve a lot but i want to use other tools that i think might better suit the finished image the conversion i've created is only my starting point for the finished image now i hope you found today's video helpful if you have please take a moment to share it and don't forget to subscribe i'm robin whalley you've been watching lenscraft i'll see you next week for another video

Channel: Robin Whalley

Views: 1,967

Keywords: Lenscraft, Lenscraft Photography, Robin Whalley, Photography, capture one, capture one pro, photo editing software, capture one tutorial, capture one pro tutorial, capture one color balance, capture one color, capture one color correction, capture one color editor, landscape photography editing tutorials, colour correction and colour grading, color corection, colour correction, landscape photography editing

Id: 4i4locfIgNg

Length: 8min 46sec (526 seconds)

Published: Fri Aug 21 2020