Canon R3 Complete Photography Settings Guide

hey what's up today we're gonna be talking about the canon r3 i've had this camera about a month now maybe a little more actually waiting on my second one still but at least i got my first one and i've been diving into the settings and this camera is so complicated i didn't just make a settings video right away even though i've owned the r5 which i still have and one dx mark threes and twos and ones and everything in between this camera is a little bit different took me a little while longer to get the settings kind of how i like them and i think they might still change a lot from here but this should give you a pretty good starting point how to set up your camera i've been using it for some portraits news assignments a little bit but i've shot several like nfl games college football games and then just taking it on trips and i've really liked the way this is set up feels pretty comfortable kind of a good mix between like the 1dx world and the r5 world and i can probably talk about this camera quite a bit so i won't dive too deep but let's get in the menus figure some things out and go from there like always i'm probably gonna do my own autofocus settings video especially with this camera because it's probably the most complex camera for autofocus settings i've ever owned so our first menu is pretty obvious this is kind of your image quality jpeg quality this is the compression applied to each image quality setting you can kind of leave them a default if you want it to be a better quality just click in there and you can move these up and down and i'm just using the joystick to the left of the right of the lcd screen to make these adjustments image type size use your front dial to change the top menu and the bottom dial to change lower menu lms one and two are the various actual pixel sizes and that previous menu again is the compression of each jpeg size and that was the top you have raw and then a compressed raw and same idea the actual file dimensions are the same 24 megapixels but the compressed raw is just compressed i always just use all the full data you know to each their own though cropping aspect ratio this will actually apply like a crop to the file so if you want to shoot in a square format or 4x3 or 16x9 you can do that here 1.6 crop is actually kind of cool if you're shooting a lot of wildlife for birds or maybe in sports and basically it's just like a teleconverter it makes it into like using like an aps-c size sensor um you of course are losing resolution and this is all of these settings are the same as if you were to change it in posts and just crop so um kind of a strange setting to change on a daily basis but you can do it i really wish they had a four by five because i really like shooting four by five uh film but also four by five aspect ratios pretty cool for photography next menu is just your exposure compensation or if you want to bracket you can do it from here too exposure compensation basically adjusts the meter to make the photographs darker or lighter based on usually based on scenes so if you're shooting stuff in a lot of dark environments you'd put your exposure compensation a little bit darker but if you're shooting like say in a snowy environment where everything's white and the meter wants to make that snow gray you'd expose your comp higher to make everything you know basically telling the meter hey this should be brighter iso speed settings um you can set your iso speed in here and you also set the range so if you wanted to you could even go down to low 50. i generally don't touch much in this menu maybe sometimes i change the range but not much that being said i actually will probably turn the auto all the way up because why not hdr shooting i don't use personally um but this is where you could enable that [Music] but this is kind to get more dynamic range i don't use that so i'm not going to dive into it hdr mode would be related to that setting auto lighting optimizer this is basically um this basically applies to jpeg images it basically helps bring your dynamic range into more control um but as it says here it's disabled in manual mode and bulb mode so uh you know those are modes like your manual mode i commonly use so i'm going to skip it highlight tone priority again this is kind of a jpeg setting to help control your highlight tones i don't use it because i shoot raw so so this is a big thing that changed in this camera is anti-flicker shooting in the previous cameras all before this they had this anti flicker shooting the top menu item here and it will basically i think try to time your frames with when the flicker isn't happening h hi high frequency anti-flicker shooting this second menu item is totally new and totally crazy and pretty neat so in high flicker anti-flicker high frequency anti-flicker shooting this is a mouthful uh what the camera is basically doing is you can have it read a scene for if the lights are flickering and at what frequency uh you do this by keeping your camera still pointing it at the environment which you're taking a picture so this could be a stage this could be you know a blank wall or a wedding venue whatever it is and it'll basically then adjust your shutter speed to try to compensate for that i'm using video lights so i don't have any flickering lights in here to do it i'd love to do a video on it though so i should probably do that but it's pretty neat but you have to have the camera steady and it will read the scene it's really really neat but anyways so obviously most of the time i have it off but if you're shooting in a venue that has like sodium vapor lighting or those constant fluorescent tubes trying to think of like the worst offenders or maybe a video screen you can enable this and it'll go to these really weird shutter speeds basically to over compensate that flicker external speed light control i don't really change much in here um i i generally don't use an on-camera flash um and when i use flashes i'm using like profoto lights to do portraits or studio work which i'm doing later today so um but i don't really touch much in here because this is more lit to like an on-camera speed light speaking of flashes if you are planning to use studio photography this i have found that you have to have the camera set to mechanical shutter when you're using strobes so my profoto lights do work i don't have one handy but my profoto flash and everything works with this camera but i have to be in mechanical shutter not electronic shutter metering mode i like evaluative um partial metering spot metering and center weighted average or all other options um whatever you're comfortable with i i'm sure people have different arguments for each one um evaluative is going to evaluate the whole entire frame spot is going to meter right in the center or you can change it to tie to where your auto focus point is personally i like evaluative it's just the way i've worked for you know 15 years now so white balance is very obvious you can change your white balance to whatever you need it to be custom white balance this is where you would take an image of a calibrated gray card and you could load it in and set a custom white balance that way this has been on canon cameras forever white balance shift you could shift you know more green more magenta amber blue whatever uh just basically you can manually fudge around your white balance uh color space i have it set to adobe rgb that's going to be more color information for jpeg files srgb is more of like a web color set or a uh you know a less robust uh set of colors and again this doesn't really apply to raw so it's not really a big setting to change if you're shooting raw but if you are shooting jpegs adobe's going to give you more color information picture style again since i shoot raw i just kind of leave this alone if you want to change it to something else you can here or load in custom ones through the canon software on the computer but generally i just leave it in standard uh again clarity also applies to jpeg files uh clarity you're probably familiar from the computer it's kind of like the mid-tone contrast so if you have your whitest white and your black is black in a frame which right now is probably my cheek and my sweatshirt that's kind of contrast clarity would be more the difference between like you know my shirt that's probably a little bit grayish because the lighting and like my cheek so more like the mid-tone that's probably not a very accurate description but it's more like mid-tone separation um i'd leave it alone because i'm shooting raw lens aberration correction this data might pull over the raw files i haven't actually tried to turn it off and see if the raw files still read it but basically this is going to help fix vignetting distortion stuff like that and again this is applying to your jpeg files and like i said it might apply to the raws but i don't think it does uh long exposure noise reduction this is basically uh noise reduction applied if you're doing long exposures think astrophotography or like landscapes or stuff like that where you're keeping your shutter open for a very long time high iso speed noise reduction exactly what it sounds like when using high iso speeds this is the amount of noise reduction applied to those files i don't shoot jpeg so this would be applied to the jpegs me personally i would recommend low or medium if you are shooting jpegs because once you start going too far it's just going to start throwing away details so that's my own opinion but dust delete data is for basically you can load in to try to figure out where dust is on your sensor if you're doing a sensor cleaning so not a setting you use commonly um multi-exposure and focus bracketing multiple exposures when you take a series of pictures and layer them on top of each other this is something you'd kind of dive into to do that creative effect day to day i don't really use it um if you were to enable it um you could yeah you can dive in here and do what you want but basically the you know additive average bright or dark this is like how the photographs are mixed together whether you know you're just like taking if this is gray and another thing on top of it goes gray do you average the two grays out or do you take this gray and add more light to it to then make it like brighter that'd be an example of how these work and then you can set the number of exposures if you save the original images stuff like that focus bracketing i haven't used basically when doing macro photography or still light photography or other things where it's hard to achieve all the depth of fields you need you could go in here and it would basically walk the camera through multiple focus points and then you merge them together in post um and yeah so and it might actually merge them in the camera for you i don't actually know because i don't do a lot of still life photography um but yeah basically this is for that kind of stuff you'd obviously have to be using a tripod and shooting something that doesn't move so again this is really mostly for still life photography or macro photography stuff like that drive mode so this is kind of interesting this is actually one of my things i don't like about this camera um so you have the ways you'd expect to see single shot meaning it takes one photo for every press of the button high speed continuous plus which means that it's maximum speed high speed continuous which is um yeah anyways hold on and then low speed continuous and then of course i have disabled but you then have a timer like you know for taking a picture of yourself and putting a timer but i disable those because i wouldn't use them so single shooting is exactly what it sounds like that's a single photograph per button press the reason there isn't a number attached to the high speed continuous high speed and low speed continuous is because they would be dependent on whether or not you're in electronic or mechanical shutter mode in electronic which is what i would recommend using with this camera virtually all of the time high speed continuous plus is that 30 frames per second high speed continuous is i believe 15 frames per second and low speed is either three or five it's pretty slow um so my problem is is there's no way to slide between them there's no way to say well i don't really need 30. maybe i want to be at like 25 or 20 as an example i'm hoping this comes with a firmware update but as of right now you gotta either choose 15 or 30. that's a pretty big gap um for me 15 is plenty for everything i've shot so far which has included nfl games but i could see wanting to go to 20 or so uh high speed plus the 30 frames per second would probably be pretty good for like hockey or maybe shooting sports like archery or skeet and stuff like that um so i i could see going to 30 sometimes but most of the time i kind of maybe want to be in that 16 to 20 range day-to-day and as of right now you can't do that interval timer this would be for making like time-lapse photography silent shutter function you would think i would have this on basically at all times but i'll actually show you why i leave this off in just a second this is a simple way to set it to being a silent shutter but i always leave it on off even when i need the shutter to be silent and i'll show you that in the yellow menus in just a second shutter mode this is again like the r5 and r6 and all the mirrorless r bodies i pretty much exclusively use this electronic shutter i haven't had an issue with any problems this is a new world compared to the r6 and r5 where you could get some warping and warbly images i'm using electronic 99 of time the one time i'm going to mechanical so far is when i use strobes so um yeah using strobes portrait photography with studio lighting or using a flash you do have to go to mechanical but i leave it electronic release shutter without card pretty self-explanatory but basically the camera will or will not take a picture if there's no memory card in it i always turn this off and if you rent a camera make sure to turn it off because i don't want to start taking pictures and then not realize i don't have a memory card in the camera yes i know the message comes up but it's happened image stabilizer mode on or off in here um i think i generally just leave it off i generally shoot at higher shutter speeds for me i don't know that's just the way i i see it um i could see it introducing artifacting of some sort there's i've never had it happen but it seems more possible with it on so i just leave it off customize quick controls uh this would be for like your um kind of what's on your back screen when you hit this q button on the back so you can adjust these as needed so those are very per person specific so i don't really dive into them the defaults are generally fine for me i'm sure there's stuff i could add or take away depending on what i'm doing but anyways touch shutter i turn off that's basically like the ability to touch the back screen and have it take a picture i would never want that so i keep it off image review i also have set to off this is basically the photograph automatically popping up on the back screen hold would mean that it just stays on until you do something 8 seconds 4 seconds and 2 seconds means it pops up for either 8 4 or 2 seconds personally i hate the back screen blinking or plopping up so i always have set this to off and then viewfinder display i think would turn it off or on if you were taking pictures it would you know do you want the image to pop up in your eyeball which obviously i would also disable uh metering timer i don't change i don't think i've ever changed the metering timer on a camera but i think this is basically how much time it would continue to meter without you like activating it again not something i've ever had an issue with it being at the default setting display simulation and ovf sim view assist are probably more complicated than they appear i actually read up on this yesterday and kind of got a little bit lost so basically display simulation which is nine top thing and nine this would be when you're looking at the screen do you want to see exposure plus depth of field meaning that it would not only show you the proper exposure through your viewfinder or screen but it would also show you the anticipated depth of field so it would stop the lens down to say f11 or f56 generally when a camera is operating the aperture stays wide open and when you take the picture the aperture closes down and then opens back up so exposure plus depth of field would be um it would you'd see an f56 or f11 and if you're using a lot of stuff that's you know fairly closed down that might be pretty convenient exposure only during depth of field exposure would obviously be that it just simulates the exposure without adjusting the aperture to so it stays wide open but it you know will look like what it's going to look like and exposure only during depth of field preview i think would mean that it would not stimulate the exposure until you hold down the depth of field preview button and then disable would be more like using a traditional camera or a camera with an optical viewfinder that when you pull the camera up to your eye it's just kind of giving you an average exposure regardless of your camera settings so if you're used to an optical viewfinder and you don't like that when you put the camera up it's you know showing you a really dark image then you would want to disable it so far i've been using exposure sim and that's why i use my r5 too and it's pretty good i don't have too many problems with that i could see using and disable if you do a lot of studio work if you're doing a lot of studio photography then a lot of times the studio is pretty dark and then the strobes go off and it's very bright so maybe your exposure is 1 160th at f 11 at iso 100 but the room is you know pretty dim then that'd be a problem uh optical viewfinder simulation view assist um so i think this would be this is this camera's complicated um so this would simulate what an optical viewfinder would be like so i think you have to disable the other exposure assist and then turn this one on if i'm correct i have not tried this setting i literally was just reading a document about it last night and did not get to test it but yeah so these are kind of how the photo this is how the photo is shown to you while taking pictures versus unrelated or related to the exposure you have set optical viewfinder stimulus shooting info display so this is just basically like what information you're gonna see while you're while you're in your viewfinder and stuff like that so you can go in here and kind of edit these screens and what shows up and stuff like that the viewfinder display format someone actually commented on my other video what this does if it only display two is if you have glasses i did not know that so display one is gonna spread out over the whole entire use the most amount of space and then display two is a little bit smaller so if you have glasses you're not trying to like you know see into those corners as much i use display one and i normally have glasses on i'm switching to contacts lately but um that works okay for me but if you're you know harder of seeing or maybe at different glasses display two might be able so you can see the corners a little better display performance uh so this is also related to the electronic viewfinder so power saving is going to be like 60 frames per second and i think smooth is more like 120 frames per second i've been shooting sports and all kinds of stuff with power saving and haven't noticed an issue i actually thought i had it set to smooth before i made this video and then inside of smooth there's an option here if you hit the info button for suppress lower frame rate i think that means it basically forces it to be at that higher frame rate instead of being able to drop down which i think could affect like the way the camera behaves in lower light um but yeah so far i've been having good luck with power savings um i guess smooth might be a little bit faster i haven't had it like i said i thought i had it on smooth so i guess power saving is okay for me and yeah so autofocus uh i think this deserves its own video but i'm basically using the way the camera was out of the box more or less um i always use a back button auto focus settings meaning that my focus is not activated by my shutter button but instead auto autofocus is activated by a back button you know like the af on or asterisk button and stuff back on the back side of the camera so with that being said i'm going to use af as servo mode always af area you can set this just like any other camera i personally like to use either the one point autofocus the spot autofocus or the expand af area i have great luck with all of those generally i'm using expand af area or even the expand af area around but this new camera works different than old cameras so i actually have been really liking this subject tracking is interesting uh i have it set to on meaning that basically if it sees um the thing you have it set to detect it's going to start like tracking that thing inside of the frame so i have it set to on and then i have it set to people because most of what i do is photographing people you can set the people animals vehicles for like motorsports or none so any of them and i would assume most people want it on people or animals so in addition to leaving the subject tracking on i also leave the eye detect on you could disable it if you wanted to but if you're going to try to detect animals or anything i always like to have it focused on an eye so why not leave it on so switching track subjects um this allows you to basically set how quickly um the camera could switch to a new subject um i've had good luck so far with just the default setting but i could maybe see turning it down if anything but yeah i've had pretty good luck so far with just leaving it on one so far just like the 1dx3 and the 1dx2 and r5 and all that i've been using two with pretty good luck this has been great for shooting football portraits and all that it's certainly awesome but yeah i've been having pretty good luck with just leaving this in servo mode 2. these are like the other cameras pretty similar obviously so as i usually say in most of my videos i'm generally working between two and four for most stuff i do so far too has been pretty great this is for one shot autofocus so basically if you are using one shot autofocus if it's set to focus so make sure the camera is focused before you hit the shutter button if it's set to release then uh it will you know fire when you hit the shutter button or push the shutter button all the way down versus waiting for the camera to be in focus uh preview autofocus i actually don't know what this is uh i i have no clue so i am gonna leave it disabled but i don't know what that would mean um lens drive when autofocus is impossible what this basically means is if a camera cannot focus it will either continue to go back and forth and try to focus or it will just stop trying to focus i will usually leave it on because i'm in control with that back button anyways so i just you know can just take my thumb off the back button if i see that it's stuck trying to figure something out um autofocus assist beam firing uh for this particular camera it's when you're using a flash and basically it would like fire off that um infrared uh autofocus assist beam that like red light that comes out of the front i leave it on because it's rare i use a flash but if i do that's obviously helpful you can limit the autofocus areas that you can select from if you want to on this camera so far i've left them all enabled but right in here you could uncheck the ones you don't want and then hit ok to save that selection autofocus area selection control basically this uh on the behind the shutter button here there's a little grid button that is that button indicated on the left side and after hitting that you can either hit the mfn button by the shutter button or you can hit that front control dial by the shutter button to choose between these autofocus areas while you're inside the viewfinder i do switch it to the main dial i used to always use the mfn button but this is way quicker so i hit that back button and then i turn the dial and change my mode autofocus point selects sensitivity this is basically how fast or slow the autofocus point moves when you grab the joystick again default's been pretty good for me but you can make it faster or slower orientation linked autofocus point i leave it for same for both vertical and horizontal and you could change it so it would be different based on if you're using a camera vertically or horizontally and then that could either be that just the if you use the middle one then it can be a different whole setup so maybe you turn it vertical you want to be you know a spot focus and then when you turn the camera horizontally you want to be expand that would be the middle one the bottom one would use the same auto focus setup like that you know grid or whatever or point and then just the point then the point would be different i leave it the same for both i've tried all of them for me personally leaving it the same works better for me i'm kind of doing all the autofocus settings so maybe i don't need a separate video manual manual focus peaking settings if you are using manual focus this will highlight the things in or out of focus with like a red area or whatever color you choose i turn this on when you're not using manual focus and none of this comes up so it doesn't distract you but it does make manual focusing a lot easier when using um like say a vintage lens like this you know tt artisans 51 4 i have for the rf mount so it makes a lot easier to use something like that and get that accurate focus a lot easier focus guide same idea this is basically to help you get more accurate autofocus and this basically shows it shows these two triangles that crisscross and uh then it helps you know if your camera if your camera's in focus or not again i leave it on because if you are manual focusing everything helps it be a little bit better uh electronic full-time manual focus this basically means that no matter what the lenses that have electronic manual focus will be able to be manual focused at all times um i have it set to off because i don't have a good answer why i don't want to accidentally bump it in manual focus so i have to tape down all my new lenses um electronic model focus uh you could actually change see if it's one shot enabled uh disable and autofocus mode um lots of different things here so uh basically that's what you're changing um with the rf lenses you can now change your focus ring rotation so basically if you want to focus like a nikon where it's you know backwards from canon and a bunch of other people you could do that um one thing i do change here is the lens manual focus ring sensitivity i have it linked so it feels more like a traditional lens where it's like i'm going to change it from this to this it's going to be the same amount of manual focus this top setting is the default and that basically means that if you're moving it slower or faster it will be able to tell oh they want to make a bigger jump or they want to make a smaller jump so if you're into fine tuning maybe the top section is better i'm just used to old lenses and how you would manual focus like a cinema lens or an old photo lens and i just want to be kind of more linked to what it would be no matter what i don't change much in the blue menus the only thing i really change is in menu 4 and that is going to be this image jump with control dial which is the front dial so this top setting here and i change it to this setting here with the key so what this means is that if i were to protect a photo or tag a photo as people use both terms this way when i'm in playback looking at photos on the back of my camera if i grab that front dial it's going to jump from tagged photo to tagged photo to tagged photo rather than and it just makes review and tagging and everything a lot quicker and then you can still use the back dial to go in through the photos one by one but then that front dial will say like hey what photos did i tag today i can just flip through really quickly you could also set it to stars if you like using stars or you know i think yeah basically a bunch of different ones here and then the other one i change or the way i have it set up is the rate button and i have it to do the key which is protect or tag and if you're using photo mechanic they come in with that little tagged mark which is why i use it and then if you hold it it will record a memo currently with this camera's current firmware once you protect a photo you can't record a memo and that's the way it's been forever but the 1dx mark iii just got new firmware and i'm hoping this does too and the r5 that even if a photo is protected you can hold it down and then record a memo so if you're watching this when this comes out if you protect a photo you then can't record a memo you have to unprotect it record the memo and then hit it again to protect it again it's pretty frustrating but like i said it looks like they're finally changing it uh memo auto quality i leave it 48 kilohertz i actually tried the eight kilohertz option and it sounded terrible um i don't change anything in these but if you want to you can enable like showing where your auto focus point was or showing if you're clipping if like you know something's totally white in your photograph you can add that information in this menu five network settings i am not going to dive into but basically you would use this to connect to you know wireless networks or ethernet networks and you can set up servers to then upload photos with ftp i i do this i've used it at a football game already it's fantastic it transfers extremely quick it's absolutely amazing actually the yellow menus i'm not going to change much you could customize your file name in here if you want to obviously format your card set your date and time not a lot of things i'm touching except for this in the second menu so remember earlier when i said that i do not turn on silent shutter mode so what i do is leave it on so it's not silent then over here in this volume menu so yellow menu number two you can go in here and adjust the volume of your shutter and you can hear it right now so if you go to zero there's no noise and one is pretty quiet so depending on the environment you're in you might want it at one or two i've been leaving it two generally or i put it at zero so when i'm doing something on a television set um or anything i have to be totally quiet like a recording studio i'm gonna go to zero and thus i get my totally silent shutter um having to manually dig through all the menus over and over what's also nice is i turn the focus beep and the touch controls and all that stuff all the way down because i obviously don't want the camera doing this noise that's the worst noise ever um there's not much i'm gonna change in here this is all probably defaults uh eye control man i control i control i have off i've had absolutely zero luck with this i know there's probably a million people that want this camera for the eye control if you wear contacts if you wear soft contacts i think specifically it's gonna be real pain i tried setting up with glasses i think twice and had no luck at all and i think i tried with contacts once and also had no luck yeah basically you're not gonna see any eye control settings in this video because it it just hasn't worked at all for me is the short answer um everything else uh is gonna be pretty much default in all of these these these menus um yeah not much i'm going to be changing in here orange menu this is what most people are pretty confused by this first menu i don't believe i change anything at all these are all default settings the second menu uh this first option here same exposure for new aperture uh what this basically means is if you're using a lens that has a variable aperture like a 100 to 400 it goes from four to five six or you know 200 400 with the teleconverter by turning this on when you engage that teleconverter on the 200 to 400 or you zoom in a lens that the aperture is changing it's basically adjust your iso speed so your manual exposure stays the same so if you set it to 1 200 at f 4 and then you zoom in it needs the lens is physically a 5.6 it will go from say iso 400 up to 800 or if you engage that teleconverter it's a setting that people don't use and it's awesome i love using this setting and it was on the older cameras too it's just kind of buried um restrict shooting modes this is where i turn off some of the shooting modes i'm not going to use so i basically turn off you know program bulb and i turn off some of the custom modes because i just don't use them that much so i can always go back here and turn them on but generally day to day i'm not using them for work shooting modes or metering modes i don't change uh shutter speed range and aperture range i don't change restrict drive modes on menu three again i'm just leaving a lot of these things at default drive modes i just turn off the self timer that's uh these self timers because again i don't use them for work that much but you can totally leave them on and just not ever set it to them and that's the same thing so the direction for tv and av i don't touch customizing buttons i'll get into in a second customizing dials i do change these so i have my front control dial set to aperture so when i'm in manual mode uh it controls my aperture which is backwards most people it's the other way around i like doing it this way because when i use aperture priority it's the aperture and i go to manual mode it's also the aperture which is nice and obviously then the back dial is set to my shutter speed so it just more similarly acts in manual mode like it would in aperture priority mode which is all i really want out of it so customize buttons is where everybody gets confused and lost on this uh setting up a camera i think so again i'm setting up back button autofocus so this is pretty similar to how i've set up every other canon camera but my shutter button is going to be either metering start or ae lock so i use ae lock because i prefer to have the ability to if i'm using aperture priority or you know something like that or auto iso i can kind of manipulate the camera and then lock my my exposure and then fire some people don't like that and they use metering start which basically does nothing then except take the picture so personally i like it with lock this is the first time ever i feel like this camera is missing like a button or two and on the top of this camera they took away like the 1dx style buttons like the iso the light uh you know all those buttons that are up in front of this display they they took them away and it's kind of driven me nuts so for the first time ever i'm repurposing the record button to be white balance there's not really a quick way other than going to the lcd screen and finding a way to get to white balance which isn't a big deal but for me personally it's slow uh so i changed this to white balance instead of record um and that's mainly because i don't know i mean i'm not using this for video but i'd switch it to video and then i can use it as record still um mfn is this button up by the shutter button and uh basically with that by default and what i've left it on is called dial function which i can actually show you here um you hit it and it basically brings up this quick menu that the back button goes left or right and then this front dial controls you know the setting so you can change you know your frame rate your auto focus your white balance and this seems good enough but like again right here it's like i can go into kelvin but i can't change what kelvin kelvin is which i use a lot but anyways so maybe you keep that record button set the way it is uh and and you don't need and then this button could be something else or you can use that regardless dial function has been pretty useful to me and i've liked having it there the front manual function button i have set to unlock and what that basically means is a lot of times with all my cameras when i'm using them i'm usually using more than one camera they're bouncing around moving around a lot uh so i usually on the back where you turn the camera on you can instead of going all the way on you go halfway and it says lock and so that will lock dials it'll lock you know basically locks in your you can lock in your exposure your dials all that stuff um so 90 of the time i actually use my camera locked so i can't accidentally change my exposure and i go reach for another camera and now it's too bright too dark wrong aperture whatever so this front button i have it set that you basically can hold that down and it overrides the lock so then you can adjust your dials while holding it down pretty useful the light button on the top i have so far left as a light button because sometimes you got to see that screen um i could easily see changing this to something else maybe if i get eye autofocus this is where i would enable it uh but so far i haven't had any luck so you know uh mode button is right in here in the iso dial and that basically lets you go from manual aperture priority uh shutter priority um again this is default and obviously useful autofocus on uh which is on the back uh i have set to be autofocus on so everything we set earlier in the autofocus menu uh it works that way so what that means is that by default i'm moving the point with the joystick all that and then it'll activate the autofocus with that autofocus on button and i'll get to the two things i have set up probably in the autofocus video but anyways and then this the smart controller is the autofocus on button on this camera and the 1dx mark iii they're the only cameras that have had it yet has an infrared sensor on it and so basically while moving your thumb on the button it will move your auto focus point if you're not have the highest dexterity that might not be awesome so you might want to turn this off and and or turn it on one nice thing that's new is you can now have it turned to move the auto focus point but only when metering is engaged which is kind of nice that if you you know if the camera's been sitting for a little bit it won't move it the second you touch it but um inevitably once you touch the auto focus point with your thumb then it's gonna you know enable it but i have had a little bit better luck with having on during metering it feels like it gets bumped incidentally a little less so the star button i have set to during autofocus start as well however in here you can set it to a bunch of different things if you hit the info button you can then adjust the way in which the autofocus is turned on so what i have is this check mark on the left is whether or not this thing to the right is enabled if that makes sense so basically like autofocus area doesn't matter what this says on the menu right now because it's not checked so the only two settings i have changed is that i want it to start in the position in which i have the autofocus set to so if i move my point over to the right it's going to start over there but basically all this is doing is ignoring the subject tracking so by default when i use the af on button if it if i have the focus point here at the chest and i got subject tracking on and there's obviously a head above that the camera will go from here and it'll jump to the space which is obviously awesome right however sometimes situations are complicated and it will say oh you're trying to focus on this but there's a face right here and it'll go jump on this person's face who might be behind the person that's the biggest problem i've had with this camera over the last few weeks is that it's like almost too smart for its own good so by disabling that subject tracking by just going over one button say when there's a running back with the football and i have the focus point right on his chest it'll focus right on that chest and be totally great versus the first game i did i did not have this set up and it would kind of like oh there's a guy chasing him and like you know maybe that face is a little more clear that head's a little more obvious to the subject tracking and it would jump to that person's head so anyways so i have it set to af if you hit info you can access these and i just have this checked on and then checked on and then over here in subject tracking i have it turned off obviously this is super powerful you can set up a fully custom whatever you want that star button to do the af point selection button i have it set as af point selection i could see maybe this gets repurposed for the eye autofocus button because i don't change my auto focus point selection a lot dazzlefield preview button i almost never use depth of field preview but right now i just haven't found anything to put there if i'm honest i think what's going to end up happening is i'm going to change the depth field preview button to the eye control on or off and then the selection to be eye autofocus or maybe the record button this whole eye control autofocus is super complex hasn't worked for me yet but also it's like you have to turn on eye control and then enable the eye control to move the autofocus point and then like use an autofocus mode that's using that if that all makes sense i had it working once and it's like for most things i'm doing just moving the point works great anyways i digress lens function button this is only applies to super telephoto lenses that have a button i could have it set to metering and af start or it doesn't matter i never hit that button so i don't really use it the set button i have changed to exposure compensation when this is really great is if you're using manual mode and an auto iso you can then override your exposure compensation really easily so this way you just hold in that set button on the back dial and then turn your front control dial to adjust your exposure compensation this last one direct auto focus point selection just like the other cameras i basically have this so the joystick will move the auto focus point so i can either use the af on thing or i can use the joystick sometimes the joystick's better sometimes it's easier but most importantly sometimes you're wearing gloves and if you're wearing gloves that infrared does not work so it's nice to have both over on the video side i doubt i changed anything at all and again because i don't really shoot video on this camera going to menu 5 smart controller is set to on and enable uh this is that um infrared you know device on the autofocus on button um vertical controls are on so if you turn the camera sideways you know you you you know want to use them menu six the audio compression is a video setting and that's for audio recorded during video i turned the compression off if i ever were to record video on this um even though the autofocus even though the audio might be not really that great out of this camera versus like a audio recorder or a video recorder anything like that obviously if i want this i want the best quality audio i can get always want the best quality audio you can get and the last thing on this menu is a release shutter without lens i turn this on because if you're using like a vintage lens that's adapted if you're using one of these cheap manual focus lenses or anything like that they don't talk to the camera so if this is set to off which is the default um then if there's no communication in the lens it won't fire so one of the cool things about rf camera bodies and other mirrorless camera bodies is that you can adapt old glass to it so um you know like i have uh like an old you know canon uh you know 135 uh ffd or fl lens here that's from a canon ae1 and i'm able to use it on this camera which is pretty cool a menu 7 i'm not touching anything here and menu waits to clear it my custom menu i just basically kind of add some things that are things i use quite often obviously the shutter modes what i'm going to change a lot going from electronic to mechanical if i'm using strobes or doing studio photography something i do a fair amount so that's an easy thing to change um display simulation again going back to this it's kind of more complicated than i thought when i originally set it up so this might need to be changed um but i did leave that in there for the same reason that if i was doing studio stuff i could turn off the exposure simulation uh record function and card folder this is something i change so that sometimes i got to do jpegs to one card and raws to another if i'm working an event with an editor formatting card and then volume which is where you access that that shutter sound um and all that so so i hope you found this video helpful um the r3 has been an amazing camera so far now for two months now i guess i actually turned down my pre-order at first they were like your pre-order's in and i was really uncertain about this camera i have the 1dx3 and that was like the camera i had and the camera i wanted and you know why would i go to this mirrorless camera but i pre-ordered them and um i've been pleasantly surprised so i'm actually transitioning to all r3s and r5 um the rf lenses uh like this 85 1.2 which has been my new addiction um are absolutely incredible i would really love to dive into this camera and do a walk around with it with my buddy and and do like more of a formal review but i hope this helps if you're watching all the way to the end here please share this video on any user groups or anything that might help out i actually talked to a company recently about reviewing some products and they told me splat out that i did not get enough views to get the product to review it so um that does help if you're sharing them and you know liking and commenting and helping me out getting getting more you know the wheels turning so to speak anyways uh thanks so much for watching i hope this was helpful and i'll see you in the next one

Channel: Brett Carlsen

Views: 25,649

Keywords: canon r3, photography settings, camera settings, how to, camera setup, autofocus settings, custom buttons, customize canon r3

Id: CC132RF-HC0

Length: 52min 25sec (3145 seconds)

Published: Sun Feb 20 2022