Canon EOS R7 Tutorial & Camera Settings

hi i'm tony northrop and this is my free tutorial for the amazing canon r7 mirrorless camera if you have a different camera or if you want to check out our tutorial for the iphone visit this link sdp.io tutorial there's a lot to learn so this is a long video follow along with your hands get the camera and work with me that way you will remember it better bookmark it so you can come back to it later and use the table of contents in the description so you can skip around to different parts that you're interested in don't forget to subscribe to the channel we have tutorials and reviews coming up the manual for this camera is a thousand pages long i've read it so you don't have to but what you should do is grab your phone and download it and save the pdf to your phone so that when you're out in the field and you need to remember where some setting is you can quickly search that pdf grab the pdf of the manual from this link canon will regularly release firmware updates for the r7 that fix bugs and improve functionality the camera will not tell you about this it is not like your phone to get those updates you'll have to just check canon's website or what i do is follow canonrumors.com and they'll tell me whenever there is a new update dslr users there's a lot to learn about this new mirrorless camera you have to change the way you shoot the most important thing you can learn is that you can actually switch to live view the rear screen here and actually interact with the screen in the dslr world that didn't work that well all your focusing systems changed but here in the mirrorless world everything stays the same whether using the viewfinder or the rear screen being able to flip it forward is incredibly useful of course you can get in front of the camera and film yourself like i am now but even if you're like a portrait photographer this means that you can set your camera up on a tripod frame the portrait subject and then get in front of the camera to adjust lights use a remote trigger to fire the camera you can be fixing the model's hair or even like hold something out of the way and snap a picture remotely being able to see what's happening while you're in front of the camera is incredibly useful one drawback of mirrorless is that it's using batteries all the time this is an electronic viewfinder which means it's consuming electricity when you look through it that's not the case in the dslr world therefore you should be turning it off and on every time you pick it up fortunately canon put the on off switch right here next to your thumb so you no longer have to use your other hand to turn it on and off you don't have to worry about the battery charger anymore on the side here you will see the usb port charge through that just like you do your smartphone plug it in every night it's usbc so it should work with just about any usbc charger but it does require a certain amount of amperage so test it out before you go travel but you no longer have to travel with your battery charger so your bag is going to be a little bit lighter also dslr users you're probably used to using the thumb stick and like scrolling it around and picking one of your focusing points you no longer have to do that now you're going to let the camera pick the auto focusing point most of the time and other times you'll use a tracking mode well you basically use focus recompose but you can compose out to the corners of the frame because autofocus works great all over the frame it opens up so many new possibilities let's talk about the actual hardware of the camera now the first thing i want to point out is the diopter that is right here next to the viewfinder this dials in a glasses prescription hold it up to your eye and then turn that diopter up and down until the letters and numbers at the bottom of the screen look sharp don't look through the lens look at the actual graphics in the display this can get hit accidentally in your back so if suddenly you find that your camera is not auto focusing on anything it might just be the diopter and if you adjust it for yourself and then hand it to somebody else they might have a slightly different prescription than you so they might think it's all blurry and need to adjust that you got a free strap with your camera but to me it's kind of ugly and it says canon all over and i'm not the type who wants to advertise some particular brand my favorite strap are lucky straps i love them because they snap on and off really quickly if you want to check out lucky straps head to this link here let's talk about the memory cards under this door here next to the battery pop it open and you'll see slots for two memory cards those are uh two sd cards uh s2 is a little bit faster than standard sd cards you can put standard older sd cards in there but they'll be slower but they'll work just fine you can tell you just two card because it has two rows of contacts at the back because this is such a fast camera with big 30 megapixel files i strongly recommend getting two uh s2 cards there's a reason that you'll want two the camera can write simultaneously to both cards that way if and when an sd card fails you will have a second backup copy you might never have had an sd card fail but i did a the world's biggest poll of photographers over 4 000 people and i found the more shots you took the more likely you were to have had an sd card fail i've been a professional photographer for 25 years i probably had six or seven memory cards fail so it doesn't happen all the time but when it does happen it can be absolutely crushing like what if it's your kid's first steps or a wedding or something of course you should just take that simple step and put two sd cards in here are recommended links that you can use to get two of them i recommend getting big sd cards 128 gigs at the minimum but preferably more like 256 gigs or even more the reason is you don't want to have to be formatting a memory card all the time you want to be able to leave your pictures on the card for a few weeks for an entire trip or maybe even a couple of months because it acts as an extra backup like what if you copy the files to your computer and then your computer fails and then you don't have any pictures i also recommend getting some extra cards and stashing them throughout your life get really really cheap like eight dollar sd cards and put one in your glove box and your purse and your office desk your suitcase you know why because at some point you're going to take the memory cards out and put them into your computer and forget them not put them back into your camera and if you don't believe me read this testimonial from somebody who took that advice from an earlier tutorial and it actually did save their butt once you put a memory card in there you'll want to format it that erases all of your pictures so be sure you're ready to do that but it also allows you to reuse the memory card now i want to show you the menu system on this camera so i'm going to hook up an hdmi field recorder on the back of the camera i'm going to push the menu button in the upper left corner and now i'm going to go over to the wrench icon here go down to format card on page one select this and then i'll select the memory card scroll to ok it's going to warn me and now my memory card is blank and completely ready to use here's a camera setting everybody should change right away and that is release shutter without card with this setting enabled you can take pictures without having a memory card in your camera and this screws people over because you'll grab your camera you go to take some pictures and then you realize it was not recording the whole time so let's go in and turn this off just right away going back into the menu this time i'm going to the camera tab page 7 and you can see release shutter without card is on by default so select that and i will choose off i'm doing all of this using the joystick on the back of the camera because i have to record it but you should be touching the screen you can even drag your finger left and right to quickly make selections makes things much easier let's talk about the ports on the side of the camera the top port here is for the microphone if you use an external microphone for example if you're vlogging like this you should definitely connect something into it rather than using the on camera mic the end camera mic is not good quality and audio quality matters even more than video quality to people down below you'll find a panel for the remote shutter trigger i will recommend a wireless bluetooth shutter trigger that i like much more than the wired one so you can probably cover that up and never open it again at the bottom you have a headphone jack clearly labeled if you are recording video and you want to make sure you don't record any wind then that's a good thing to hook into on the right side you see ports for micro hdmi if for some reason you want to hook up a field monitor like i am but you'll probably never need that and then usb which is useful for either transferring pictures if you don't have a memory card reader or for charging the camera if you have a usbc charger with enough amperage i don't know about you but i'm human i tend to make mistakes and when there's a really important picture that i want to take i tend to get a little bit distracted and forget things and that has made me screw up so many pictures that i made a little checklist for myself something to read to calm myself down to make sure i'm not forgetting anything important and i print it out and i stick it right here you actually have room for a couple of little checklists if you want to use it if you want to check out my checklist you can just download it and print it yourself it's completely free visit this link here stick it back there and then you read through it and that will help you get the perfect shot without making a mistake because human error really is a thing underneath your lens here you can see the camera's sensor this sensor will tend to collect dust you should clean it if and only if you start to see annoying dust but if you do get some dust on your sensor order a sensor cleaning kit from this link here you need like a wet swab aps-c sensor cleaning kit and if you use the sdp dot io clean link you can see me demonstrating exactly how to use it i have done this dozens of times on my cameras i find it to be quite safe if you do it properly i always get dust on my sensors when i travel because that's when you're out and about maybe in dusty areas probably changing lenses on a regular basis to get the shot thus i always travel with one of these in my bag so you might want to practice before you travel and then make sure you pack one in your camera bag so that you are prepared when you're out and about now when we talk about the buttons on the camera you're probably familiar with the shutter button which is right under your index finger here half press it and by default the camera will focus fully press it and the camera will take pictures directly behind that we have the mfn button if you push that it brings up some quick settings so you can push that and push it again to alternate between each of these different settings if these settings don't make sense to you right now don't worry i'll explain it in just a little bit use the main dial that's the next dial right next to the shutter button to actually adjust these settings so you can see i can quickly adjust the iso up or down here or go all the way down to auto iso which is what you should probably generally leave it at behind that to the left we have the record button it looks just like a record button push it and you start recording video push it again to stop you don't necessarily have to be in video mode on the camera though it's smart to switch to video mode the next button over is iso now i just showed you how to change iso but this is just a quicker way to do it push it once and then you can use the main dial to quickly adjust the iso over to the left we have the mode dial this switches between your fully automatic modes and things like fvp tv avmb all these custom modes don't worry i'm going to explain what each of those means i just wanted to show you where the actual dial itself was went over from that is the lock button when you push that the controls lock and cannot be accidentally adjusted i never use the lock button and in fact it's only ever been pressed accidentally and frustrated me when i went to try to change settings but maybe you're quickly handing your camera off to a tourist to take a picture of you and you don't want them screwing things up you could lock it so they can't mess it up for you of course the next thing down is the power button you can turn it off on or switch to video mode for stills use on for video use the video camera and whenever you're not shooting with it you should turn it off to save batteries if you don't it'll go into power saving mode but you'll be surprised how quickly you burn through batteries if you don't turn it on and off going to the back of the camera we have a combination control dial and thumb stick you can see if i turn the dial in the current settings i'm adjusting the exposure compensation making the picture brighter and darker if i adjust the thumbstick well it's not doing anything right now because of my auto focus mode depending on your mode you can select a different autofocus point by using the thumbstick or by touching the rear screen to the right of that is the af on button which always activates autofocus now in its default configuration this does exactly the same thing as half pressing the shutter so you would never need to use it right but later in this video i will show you how to use back button focus which is the technique i use that decouples autofocus from the shutter button and activates it only when you press af on and it's such a pro way to do things that i know you're going to love that to the right of that you have a button that has an asterisk that little star on it and that is a metering lock and i never use the metering lock so you should think of this as a customizable button something you could assign later and something else i'll show you later and below that you have a button which by default acts to magnify things so i can press it and then press info to really zoom in again this is probably not the most useful function in its default configuration but you can change it to do almost anything and we'll talk about that in a little bit below that you have the info button which changes the amount of garbage that it shows on your screen so by pressing it i switch between many different display modes you can see the simplest display mode here just shows nothingness which is nice if you want to focus on your composition and not worry about camera settings push it again and i get a screen with nothing but camera settings you can touch this to quickly make adjustments push it again and i get a screen with mostly viewfinder but some camera settings i push it again i get even more camera settings i don't like this that's too much clutter and if i push it again you can see i get a histogram below that we have yet another directional pad here that we can use to navigate things and a very important button the cue set button push this and it brings up the cue menu this allows me to quickly navigate really important settings so i'm moving around with the directional pad here but i can quickly change the auto focus mode i can switch between like single shot and servo mode for tracking moving subjects i can switch between jpeg and raw or different jpeg qualities i could go from single shot to high speed continuous 15 or 30 frames per second so you can scroll through and customize all this but we'll talk about that a little bit later below that we have the play button which previews photos that you've previously taken and the trashcan button while you're previewing something you could press the trashcan to delete it now there's one more button and it is the depth of field preview button it's on the front of the camera next to the af mf switch here if i push that it will give me a depth of field preview and when you push it by default you might not see anything but what you can do is put your camera into av mode and then set the aperture all the way to the highest setting like f22 and now watch what happens when i push it watch the background here see the background goes from being blurry to being sharp blurry sharp the depth of field preview button shuts the aperture and the lens down to what it will be when you actually take pictures so you can see how sharp or blurry the background is going to be and of course on the outside of that is the af mf switch where you can switch between auto focus and manual focus if you do switch to manual focus you can focus by turning the ring on the lens itself there's very little reason to use manual focus but maybe you're doing macro photography or night photography it's good to know where that is you might be wondering should i use the mfn button or the cue button to do things just like always use the cue button i find it easier and quicker mfn is like a holdover from old dslrs now let's talk about how to customize that cue button go into the menus on the camera tab page 8 you will see customize quick controls select that now you can go to edit layout maybe you never change the metering mode i don't you can press info to rearrange things select edit layout to show which items should be shown or hidden let's say you never change the metering mode which i don't i will turn that off and now i can scroll up and down to different pages and pick a different setting that i want so all these are hidden by default i frequently turn on and off raw burst mode so i'll select that and now i can press the info button to rearrange it and you can see raw burst mode took over the setting that i had just hidden so if i wanted to move this i could select it and move it up to the top where i find it more useful now i'll press menu to exit and be sure to save and exit my settings now when i hit the q button you can see rawburst mode is here here's another default setting that i insist everybody change it's the beeping you don't need that beeping that is incredibly annoying to the people around you you already know it's in focus it's an r7 it's fantastic at that so let's turn it off in the menu i go to the wrench page three i select the beep and then i set that to disable now let's talk about how to set your camera to fully auto because we're going to be messing with the settings a lot now a lot of people think their camera is broken because they put it in some mode and they set the aperture to something crazy anytime you get screwed up just put the dial back on the green that is a total life saver if you're handing it to your grandfather it doesn't have a camera works put it in green a little kid put it in green confuse yourself put it in green no shame in letting the camera pick the settings some of you are kind of new at this you're not ready for aperture or shutter priority but you might be ready to do some custom settings the r7 has scenes built in things like night photography and portrait photography it's that second setting right below fully auto so you can switch into that and it goes into special scene mode and now you can use the controller to choose the scene you can just scroll through and look for the one that looks like what you're doing there's not much more for me to explain this is beginner modes no shame in that if the camera helps you get a great picture i don't care how you do it another group of settings are filters these provide creative control over like the color and the saturation to get you to get like a film look at it's kind of like the instagram filters that you might apply except it's done in camera just let those just change the mode dial over to the two filter looking things here and now you can scroll through and pick the filter that you like these are fun these are creative they might inspire you to go out and take some pictures but they're nothing you can't do if you take pictures in different modes just using something like instagram or lightroom to adjust the settings and post processing now let's talk about the creative modes this is where it gets to be advanced this is where professional photographers like myself do all their camera settings the traditional creative modes are p which is program ae that's still a fully auto mode but it gives you a little bit extra control the next mode up is tv that stands for time value which other camera companies call shutter priority this gives you control over the shutter speed it is what you will use for sports wildlife any kind of action when you're thinking about how long you want that shutter to be open because you want to freeze motion or blur the background on a moving subject you should be in shutter priority mode the next mode is av that's aperture value or aperture priority that gives you control over the iris of the lens which is just like the pupil of your eye with low values like f28 it is wide open letting in lots of light but blurring the background behind your subject with high values like f22 it's letting in very little light so it's better in bright light than dark light but it also gets the background nice and sharp av lets you control that while changing the shutter speed automatically the next mode is m or manual manual mode gives you control over both the shutter speed and the aperture simultaneously the camera can still control auto exposure using iso something we'll describe in a little bit now all of these are very complicated and i've written an entire book that goes into detail about this this is stunning digital photography the world's number one photography book for the past decade it's literally an award-winning book it has 20 hours of video in it hands-on practices quizzes and the ebook is like 10 bucks you can pick it up at northup.photo along with our other video training you might want to check out the book lovers or the everything bundle so you can get everything you need to master photography right away and i have an entire chapter on camera settings today i'm just showing you how to configure them on your camera actually understanding the right values to use is much more complicated i do have some free videos you can use here for learning aperture head to stp dot io f-stop for learning shutter priority head to sdp dot io shutter for understanding iso head to sdp dot iso and if you want to go full manual controlling the shutter speed and the aperture head to stp dot io slash go manual the r7 has another mode which is kind of unusual and that's fv that's flexible value and this is what i use all the time so switch to that mode fv now using the dial on the back of the camera you can see i can select the shutter speed the aperture the exposure compensation or the iso all by turning this then i can adjust any of those values by changing the main dial so here i could set the shutter speed to 160th i could scroll over to the aperture and set that to f56 and then i could go and set the iso manually i could adjust only the aperture and leave the other settings at auto and that would be like using aperture priority or i could make them all auto and it would be like a full auto mode or i could just change the shutter speed you can pick which values you're controlling in fv mode and thus it completely replaces shutter priority aperture priority manual mode and i think it's much more straightforward to use especially if you just touch the back of the screen to change the values that's why i use fv all the time if you screw up your settings of course you could set them all back to auto you can also hold the trashcan button on the back of your camera and they will automatically reset all to auto now let's talk about bulb mode that's the b on your mode dial this is a really outdated term but back in the olden days you would actually hook up this little squeeze bulb that would allow you to keep the shutter open they still call it bulb mode but it just lets you keep the shutter open for over 30 seconds because if you'll notice like this is shutter priority the longest i can go is 30 seconds here i can't go beyond that so if you want to do a 10 minute exposure like maybe you're photographing star trails at night you would go into b bulb mode and now if you want to do a 10 minute exposure what you do is you press the shutter button down and you'll see it starts counting and now just hold your finger there for 10 minutes and don't shake the camera okay that that sounds really boring right there's an easier way to do it hit the menu button then go to the camera tab page seven on page seven you'll see bulb timer select that and choose enable then hit the info button and set it to how long you want the exposure to be so now i've set it to a 10 minute exposure i'll hit ok and so now when i go back in and i press the shutter it's going to start counting for 10 full minutes that's very long exposure probably never do a 10 minute shutter but now you know how to i'm going to push the shutter button again and get out of that and then put myself back into full auto mode when you do put your camera into weird mode when you're done shift it back to full auto mode that way the next time you or somebody else picks up your camera it's not trying to take a 10 minute exposure i've screwed that up a few times so that's why i know to tell you to do it if you want to trigger your camera remotely check out canon's bre-1 remote control at this link it's a bluetooth remote and it's great for bulbs for long exposures for triggering your camera without shaking it which is good for getting sharper shots and everybody should have one of these on their back now let's talk about the custom modes on the model as you scroll over here you'll see c1 c2 c3 these are so incredibly useful but i feel like nobody ever uses them here's how they work you set the camera up in the way you like for a particular type of photography let's say you're doing sports photography for sports i would go into shutter priority that's tv mode and then i would set the shutter speed to 1 2 000 of a second i would set the iso down to auto and i would let the camera choose the aperture then let's hit q here and we're going to go up and we're going to pick servo for continuous autofocus and the drive mode should be set to high speed continuous i know you don't understand all that yet we'll get to it later this is just an example of how to use custom mode now that i have the settings dialed in i want to save them to memory so i can quickly recall them after all i might have to shoot my kids soccer game right after i do some portraits and if i screw up a setting i could end up screwing up the entire shoot so it helps reduce human error as well as saving you some time so now that i've got those settings dialed in i'm going to go into the menu i'm going to go to the wrench menu page 6. here you'll see custom shooting mode i'll pick that i'll select register settings and then i'll go to custom shooting mode c1 then i'll select ok now all my current settings are saved under c1 now let's say i do portrait shoots and i do that in aperture priority mode i do that with a low f-stop number and an automatic shutter speed i've set that on the camera now i'll select the menu i'll go to custom shooting mode register settings i'll set that to c2 so now i have to remember sports or c1 portraits or c2 maybe i'll write that on a piece of paper on the back of my camera behind that screen now watch when i change the mode dial to c1 you can see here it says c1 tv that means it's in shutter priority when i switch to c2 it says c2 av that means c2 is aperture priority mode so i'm in c1 now and you can see my shutter speed is 1 2 000. in c2 my shutter speed is one sixtieth it's the aperture that's being controlled so now i have one mode for shooting my kid's soccer game and then i can switch right into portraits when i wanna take the pictures of the winning team afterward that is such a useful mode that everybody should remember now let's talk about how to use eye autofocus i told you earlier you don't have to use the little thumbstick on the back to select your autofocus point especially for portraits wildlife sports anything you should be relying on eye autofocus now press the q mode and the top option here it says af now i can select different autofocus modes here either the whole area af which is the entire frame or a specific point but the more important thing it says info and you'll see right now a little circle with lines and it says disable if i push that that is enabling subject tracking that is the top option the last option here is the subject to detect people animals or cars if you're focusing on a subject and you want the camera to automatically pick the focus point for you that's where you select what they are now i'll focus on myself and i'm a people so i'll select people now when i spin the camera around you can see it's drawing a box on my eye and when i have pressed the shutter it's locked on my eye you can see if i move my head it's picking the closest eye all the time it is incredibly smart let's take a selfie and you'll notice little left and right arrows pop up there i can push the thumbstick to switch between the different eyes so if it's focusing on the wrong eye or the wrong person toggle between them by pushing the thumbstick just remember when you go to take a picture of your dog or your bird switch it to animals or vehicles or whatever now let's talk about manually focusing the camera i'm going to let's grab this camera here from the background and i'll put it here in the foreground and we can manually focus on it on the front of the camera i'm going to switch it to mf and now by turning the dial on the front of the camera i can control the focus and you see the camera is showing to me the focus distance if i want to focus as close as possible i'd scroll all the way to the left there and then i would physically move the camera closer to the dials until the subject came in focus you can see this particular lens gets extremely close manually focusing is not especially accurate and you won't always get super sharp pictures one way to get really sharp pictures is to get as close as you can to the autofocus and then push the little magnify button on the back of the camera and then push info and now you're zooming in you can push info again to zoom in even further and now you can really nail focus right on where you want the subject to be sharp then take your picture speaking of focusing modes i want to tell you about back button focus which is my preferred way to focus it's kind of advanced don't feel like you have to do this on day one but when you start to get more advanced it's going to make life much easier with back button focus you decouple autofocus from the shutter button notice right now when i have pressed the shutter button it always tries to autofocus that is usually very useful but there are times when you don't want to autofocus for example night photography you might take great care to auto focus on a subject but then you want to be able to recompose without the camera jumping on to something else macro photography is a time where you might want to autofocus once and then stop auto focusing with back button autofocus it is automatic the camera does not refocus unless you specifically tell it too what i do is i push the af on button on the back which always causes the camera to autofocus and then i just take pictures so i pretty much always have that button pushed in but i always have the option of letting it up if you don't understand head to sdp dot io ybb and i have a whole tutorial showing exactly why that's useful i'm going to show you how to set it up on this camera we're going to go into the menu system we're going to go to the custom menus here that's the icon with the camera and the lines below it and then on page three you'll see customize buttons i'm going to select this shutter button here and by default it says metering and autofocus start that means when you half press the shutter it starts to auto focus i'm going to have it just meter select that and that's all i have to do to set up back button focus so now i'm half pressing the shutter and you can see it is not trying to autofocus it doesn't autofocus until i press the af on button i've shown you a small fraction of the overall menu system and yet it's still really confusing it's hard for me to remember where things are i suggest you set up your own custom menu with the items that you use regularly i'll show you how to do that first go into the menu system and then go to the right most menu with a star there this is my menu by default it has no tabs so you need to set up a new tab by selecting the top item add my menu tab select ok now you have a fresh tab now you want to add items to this menu select configure and then select select items to register now maybe you want to adjust the image quality on a regular basis okay scroll through here find some other item that you regularly change i change raw burst mode on a regular basis so i'll add that and then i also change the interval timer so i'll select that press the menu to back up here and now you can see i have a menu with just the items that i regularly use i can configure it here to resort delete items delete the entire tab to rename the tab maybe this tab is all about image quality so i'll name it quality and you can see that name in the upper right corner there the first time you have to go hunting for a menu item that you can't find make a point of adding it to the my menu tab so you can find it the next time let's talk about image stabilization this camera has two types of stabilization depending on the lens you're using it has sensor stabilization so the sensor inside the camera actually moves around to cancel out camera shake some lenses will also have image stabilization and they will work with the camera's sensor stabilization this is generally fine you might want to turn it off by going to camera 8. here you can see is mode is turned on i always leave it on you don't have to turn it off if you're going on a tripod or something but i did want to show you where it was you'll also see there's a separate setting for video digital image stabilization video image stabilization improves the stability of video quality when you're hand holding the camera so i'll show you what it looks like like you can kind of see the amount of camera shake that i have now when i'm looking at this camera let me turn the video stabilization to it on or enhanced on crops in a little bit so you can see this is a little bit tighter and it's a little bit more stable if i go to image stabilization and turn digital is to enhanced you can see it's cropped in even tighter but it's even more stable especially if i'm walking this would cancel out much more motion than the standard stabilization would however it crops the video so you get a narrower angle of view than you normally would standard is for stills leave it on all the time for video turn it on or off depending on how much shaking of the camera that you're doing you ever want to make a time lapse where you just see like the sun rising or setting over a long period of time i think they're so fun there's two ways you can make time lapses and the first is by taking a series of stills say every 30 seconds or every one second and then stitching them together later in post i'll leave the stitching part to you but for now i want to show you how to set it up on the camera first go into stills mode by setting the power button to on then go to camera page 7 and select interval timer we're going to set this to enable with this set to enable i'm going to press info to change the details of it now here you can see i can set the interval maybe i want it to be every two seconds and the number of shots which if you scroll down you can just do an unlimited number of shots i usually just set it to unlimited and then when i'm done with the time lapse i'll just turn it off that's easier than trying to do the math then i'll select okay and now i would put my camera on a tripod and when i press the shutter you can see it's blinking timer and then it's automatically taking pictures on the timeline that i specified and to stop it i would turn it off and after i turn it off you can see the camera automatically disables the interval timer so it will not automatically trigger again you'd have to go back in and turn it on manually now the interval timer you take still photos and then stitch them together in post there is another option and that is a time lapse movie where it actually makes the video file for you if you're a vlogger and you want to get just a quick recording of the sunrise and you don't want to have to stitch it together because you're just trying to speed up your whole workflow this is what you would do first move the camera into video mode go to camera page 5 select this go to time lapse and select enable and now you can see i can adjust the interval here the number of shots the video size of course you'd want to do 4k with time lapses it's really helpful to be able to crop then you can adjust the actual auto exposure whether you want the exposure adjusted for each frame or fixed usually you want to fix if the exposure changes with each frame then you could get flickering in it do you want the screen to turn off and save yourself a little bit of battery you might want to and do you want it to beep with every picture of course you don't want it to beep and now when you're ready just press the record button and you see it prompts you to start with the shutter button then i push the shutter and you can see i set it to take a picture every one second and so it is going to make a little time lapse for me and i can stop it with the shutter button now typically there's 30 frames per second so it's going to take 30 of those pictures to make a full second of video so you're going to have to be taking a lot of stills just factor that into your intervals now i'm going to show you how to configure your file formats this is jpeg versus raw versus half i'm not going to go into full explanation you can watch this video at stp dot io raw v jpeg switching back to stills mode i'll go into the camera page one here it's the very first menu item that's how important it is so i'll select image quality you can see by default it's set to just large jpeg raw is turned off i can move the front dial here to select raw or touch it or c-raw c-raw is canon raw it makes the files a little bit smaller without really having a degradation in image quality i do prefer to use c-rock now i could turn jpeg off completely by scrolling left and right for me i do all my image processing in lightroom or lightroom classic and that does great jobs with raw so i pretty much always shoot raw unless on the r7 if i'm shooting action and i don't want to run up against buffering problems then i will shoot jpeg that allows me to shoot just really rapidly here's chelsea to demonstrate exactly what i mean you might want to use jpeg if you want to maintain your high frame rate for a longer period of time because raw files are larger your camera will have a more difficult time processing them and so you'll start buffering sooner let me show you what i mean so you can hear it interrupting let's put it into jpeg mode and see what it sounds like it's not stopping oh so a little bit longer if you need to track action for a very long time consider using jpeg now you might be familiar with half or hack files from using your iphone standard on a lot of smartphones these are a much more modern highly compressed image format that's just about as compatible as jpeg so they take up less space but they also have higher quality because they have 10 bits of color instead of 8 bits and you don't have to understand that but do understand it's better quality if you want to select the heck files it's in a weird place go to camera page 2 and go down to hdr shooting hdrpq and then select enabled and you can see here shots are captured as half or raw files now i'll go back to the left and if i select the image quality again you can see now it says jpeg half so now when i take pictures they'll be recorded in that newer more modern format now you might have seen menu items in here saying hdr mode hdr is high dynamic range that allows you to capture more detail in the shadows and the highlights and that's something you really want especially when on a really sunny day with the sun behind your subject but the in-camera hdr is bad i'll show you how to get to it it's on camera page 2. you can see hdr mode here you can adjust these settings but you should not if you want hdr what you should do instead is go to camera page to this top setting here expo comp slash aeb i'm sorry it's named that aeb stands for auto exposure bracketing and bracketing is varying the exposure of multiple different shots so that one is properly exposed one is overexposed and one is underexposed so let's select that and you can see here i have two adjustments the top one is the exposure compensation so i can make my picture brighter or darker i'll leave that at zero and then i'm going to use the main dial here to adjust the exposure bracketing i'm going to move this all the way out and then i'm going to press set okay let's take a picture of my camera here i'm going to take three pictures and you can see as i review them the first picture is properly exposed the second picture is underexposed and the third picture is overexposed in lightroom or lightroom classic i can combine those three pictures to produce a picture with much higher image quality than i could otherwise and now you're saying how am i supposed to know how to use lightroom or lightroom classic or what the differences are don't worry i haven't written entire books on the subject this is a brand new lightroom book which is the same software you use on your phone or computer then of course we have lightroom classic and our photoshop book these are all available at northrop.photo i suggest getting the book lovers or everything bundle where you get all these together they each include not just a book or an ebook but training videos practices sample files you can work with and you're helping to support a small business and a guy who made this big old video tutorial for you for absolutely free if you need to get lightroom you can head to this link here sdp dot io adobe deal to sign up for a trial when i need to transfer files from my camera to a computer or phone i pretty much always just end up taking out the memory card and then putting it into a memory card reader and then connecting it to my computer or to my phone here are some memory card readers you can use for an iphone or for an android phone with usb-c or usb-a canon also includes a wi-fi app that you can use to transfer files and remotely control your camera this app is one of the worst apps in the app store don't believe me just check the reviews but let's check it out i'll show you how to set it up and you can decide for yourself whether you want to use it first i'm going to open up my app store i'm using an iphone and i'm going to search for canon camera to connect when i open it i'm going to allow it to access my photos i'm going to allow it to connect to bluetooth find devices on the local network i'm going to take note of that warning and now i'll select their easy connection guide you can see i've used this on a few cameras already but i'll connect to this new camera here i'm going to type r7 select ok yes i have an r7 here i'll take the recommendation and connect via bluetooth first and it's going to give me instructions for how to connect to the camera i'll follow the instructions by opening up the menu then it wants me to go to the thing that looks like a radio tower i'll select wi-fi bluetooth connection then i'll select connect to smartphone now the camera is telling me to change wi-fi to enable i'll select add a device to connect to i'll select ios that's iphone and now it's showing me a qr code so if i didn't already have the app up i could scan that with my camera to open it up in the app store so now i'm going to select pair via bluetooth now my phone has found it so i'll select that i'll choose to pair then i have to confirm that on the camera and now they're connecting great so now they're connected i'll select images on the camera and now it's going to use that bluetooth connection to actually connect via wi-fi for faster transfers you can see my phone is prompting me to switch wi-fi networks from my home here to the camera's wi-fi network it acts as its own access point and now the connection is established so i can actually go in and select pictures to transfer maybe i like those three pictures i can now select import at the bottom of the screen and it's going to copy them over so i had to do that three times before i got it to work once and that's probably why the app has two and a half stars it is a little flaky but just simply trying it again and again and starting the camera did eventually get it to work but at the same time if i'm on vacation and i'm trying to transfer some pictures real quick that's a frustrating experience i don't want to be having not fun on vacation right that's why i tend to just rely on a memory card reader because that works a hundred percent of the time so now you can see i can open up the photo app and there they are my photos app just like any other picture that i took i also have the option of remote live view shooting here now that it's connected once again it has to establish a wi-fi connection because after i transferred those pictures it dropped that wi-fi connection so i'm restarting it and it's going to take a few seconds and this time it won't let me join turn the camera off try this again unable to join now i'm going to show you how to use image.canon which connects your camera directly to canon's cloud network to upload your pictures it's a great way to offload your pictures sort of in real time as long as you have wi-fi access from your camera the wi-fi transfers are much slower than you'll get with your phone and of course it's not a cellular connection so you have to be home but you could tether it to a access point on your phone if you want to transfer pictures to image.canon on the go let's go into the menu system and we can start setting it up once again on the wi-fi menu i'm going to go to the first menu i item wi-fi bluetooth connection then i'll go to the cloud image.canon now it tells me i want to install the image.canon app on my phone now notice image.canon has 1.8 stars it's actually worse rated than the canon app that i was just struggling with but let's open it up and we can see how it works you can create an account here or sign in i happen to already have an account i'm logged in and now on the camera i will select connect i finish the user registration so i can click ok here and now i'm going to connect the app to the camera so from the app here i'm going to hit the menu in the upper left corner and then under connected camera i will select new i'll select the camera model r7 and then at the bottom i'll select read qr code give it access to the camera i will read the qr code now i need to connect the camera to my home's wi-fi access point my home network is called tc home it's actually showing two of them sometimes i've seen like 10 of them that's because each individual channel looks different to the camera it's not sophisticated like your iphone it's actually very primitive so i'll just pick this first one here then i have to enter the password select ok of course auto ip address setting is fine you can use tcp ipv6 that's fine i see both the camera and the app are confirming it so i'll select ok on both and now the camera is warning me to send the images automatically i have to turn the camera off and then back on again this happens without my phone i don't need to have my phone on me this is entirely the camera connecting directly to the internet it's a pretty cool feature when it does work you can see these are the settings for image.canon i have auto send sent to enable i can choose to send just stills or stills and video you might want to do just stills because videos are so big that they will take a long time to send so if you're patient they will eventually send and then if you want to change your wifi network you can do switch network here for this to work it said i have to turn the camera off and then back on again so i'll do that i'll take a selfie now after turning the camera off and on you can see it's transmitting pictures and if i refresh there are my selfies if i want to get in my photos app i can select action and then download that looked easier than it was i could not get that to work and i finally gave up and shut the camera off and then about half an hour later after turning it off and on several times it suddenly connected and started sending the pictures so if i were on vacation i would now be having a much less fun time i would just be frustrated which is why i just resort to transferring pictures with a memory card it does work sometimes does not work all the times but i guarantee you at some point it's going to frustrate you now i'm going to show you how to set the copyright name on your pictures the picture is automatically copyrighted but setting the copyright can be a useful way to identify your camera in case it's lost or stolen or something so go into the menus go to the wrench and go to page six and then go down to copyright information enter author's name and now you can put your name in here and now your name will be added to the metadata of each picture that you take i'm going to show you how to use raw burst mode which is incredibly useful for sports photography with rawburst mode when you press the shutter it captures up to 30 frames raw files always raw files using the electronic shutter we'll talk more about electronic shutters and such in a bit but for now to turn on raw burst mode hit the menu go to the camera tab and go to page six for robbers mode select that and then select enable the only real reason i'd ever want to use raw burst mode is when i'm also using pre-shooting so i always turn both of these on together rawburst mode takes pictures in a really rapid sequence i'm going to move my camera here up and down and then i'm going to push the shutter to activate a raw burst of 30 frames notice the shutter did not make any sound when i was taking those pictures that's because the camera automatically switched to the silent electronic shutter now to access these files it's a little different i'll hit the play button like i usually do and you can see instead of showing me a single picture it shows the rawburst icon so if i select that what i can do is to play each of the different raw files and you can see as i move it up and down i can see every different frame that it took 79 frames in fact now i don't want to process 79 frames and in fact you cannot simply import that into lightroom or any other image processor other than canon's own desktop software which is bad it's very bad so when i find the frame i like what i'm going to do is i'm going to push the set button here and then i can extract this as a jpeg a raw or a half file so raw is probably what i want to do and i save that as a new file and so let's view the extracted raw image and now you can see here is the picture like a stand-alone picture that i now could import into lightroom classic provided i extract it on the camera that's definitely the right way to do these things now the cool thing about rawburst is it will take pictures back in time it will take pictures up to a half a second before you push the shutter we enabled that when we enabled the pre-shooting you can see from the description you have to half press the shutter half a second before you're going to take the picture and then when you fully press it goes back in time and records everything that it had captured from the time you half pressed the shutter this is useful because imagine your kid is swinging the bat in a baseball game and you don't want to take a bunch of pictures of them missing the ball right you only want the picture of them hitting the ball your kid's about to swing half press the shutter now it's buffering those pictures but it's not recording them the kid swings and they miss don't push the shutter all the way next time they're at bat they're getting ready half press the shutter so it's recording they swing and they hit and as soon as you hear that ball hit now you push the shutter all the way and it goes back in time and saves those images this way you don't have to sort through a bunch of pictures that you don't end up using of course after you capture those you'll want to go back and extract the perfect picture the one where the ball hits the bat before you actually shoot your kids game know that raw burst mode and electronic shutter have some serious drawbacks that i'll talk about in just one second so hang on for that i want to show you the auto level this is so cool the camera will actually automatically level the shot for you because i'm always like tilted off a couple of degrees and you can fix that in post by rotating and cropping but then you end up losing some of the data right it's better to get it in camera so let's see how to turn that on i'm going to go into the menu and i'm going to go to camera 8 and you'll see auto level here now it's camera a when you're shooting stills it's different for a video so i will enable it now watch as i rotate the camera it slowly levels itself back out until i have a level picture again so that doesn't mean every picture you take is going to be level but if you give it half a second when you're getting ready to take a picture then it actually will be level and that's so useful but it comes with some serious caveats that the camera explains to you when you turn it on you can see it says it disables electronic first curtain shutter and it also disables high speed continuous shooting modes so you could shoot low speed continuous like that but i can no longer do like 15 or 30 frames per second in the shutter mode i can pick mechanical or electronic but i cannot pick electronic first curtain shutter electronic first curtain shutters which you normally want to use so you have to go in and turn this setting off anytime you're shooting sports and then you'd want to turn it back on when you were doing travel or landscape photography so stuff could be level that is easy to forget but that's a good use for those custom shooting modes that i showed you earlier now if you want auto level on in video let's switch the camera to video mode auto level is no longer on camera page eight it's on camera page six and if i turn it on for video well it's not that great like watch you see it has that little bit of lag which it's weird right like if you're hand holding a shot where it might be a little bit off level it's going to look a little bit weird as the camera is constantly adjusting a good half second after you go off level however if you're shooting video and you're setting it up on a tripod and you might be a little bit off level that auto level mode can actually straighten out your shot for you and is useful now let's talk about the different types of shutter modes the shutter is what actually takes your picture it's that thing that makes a click sound sometimes but there are many situations where you wouldn't want to make a click sound like maybe you're shooting a wedding and the couple is saying their vows and you don't want to be the photographer that's like click click click or sometimes golf games do not allow a noisy shutter you'd want to use silent shutter it's good for birds where the shutter might give away your location and disturb them these are all times when i like to use the silent shutter to turn that on go to camera page 7 and down in silent shutter function turn that on and you can see right below it it changed the shutter mode to electronic and now when i take pictures well there's no sound but you do see see the blinking lines along the side of the screen that's indicating that you're taking pictures it is really easy to take a whole lot of pictures in silent shutter mode since you're not getting that audible feedback and you might end up with a lot to sort through now there are a lot of differences between the mechanical shutter which always makes noise and the electronic shutter which can be silent to get the most out of this camera it's very important that you understand these the electronic shutter shoots at 30 frames per second maximum while the mechanical shutter is limited to 15 frames per second so that's a big win for the electronic shutter for anybody shooting sports the electronic shutter is silent the mechanical shutter always makes noise now silent is usually better street photography whatever but portraits it's really actually pretty important for the shutter to make noise so that the person who's posing knows you've taken a picture because what's more awkward than like standing there smiling and somebody's using a silent chatter and you don't know when to stop or when to change your pose so i actually turn on the noisy shutter for those situations electronic shutter has a massive massive disadvantage and that is rolling shutter mechanical shutter does not have a rolling shutter the rolling shutter is caused by the amount of time it takes the sensor to read from the top of the frame to the bottom of the frame even if your shutter speed is 1 8 000 of a second it takes about like 1 40th of a second or so for it to do that entire readout thus if you're panning the camera you might see that things that are straight will end up bendy the subject's position in the frame has moved while the camera was panning here's a panning shot with just the field goal from a football field and you can see the mechanical shutter on the left is nice and straight the electronic shutter is all bendy by the way this is figure 9.2 from my book stunning digital photography so if you do want to understand all the camera settings and stuff you'd already know the stuff if you read stunning digital photography the rolling shutter with the electronic shutter has picture ruining implications for sports and wildlife here's an actual picture of a great blue heron that my wife took using the r7 and you can see because she was panning with the flying bird the background is all bendy and this picture is completely ruined i only use the mechanical shutter for sports and wildlife on this camera and as you remember that means that i have to drop down to 15 frames per second that's kind of a bummer but 15 frames per second is still really really fast you'd want to use the electronic shutter when you are shooting fast action for 30 frames per second but don't be tempted by that because your best pictures are going to be ruined by the rolling shutter effect here's an example of chelsea swinging a wiffle ball bat nowhere near as fast as a professional athlete would be but you can see that wiffle ball bat turns into a bendy banana and her arm looks all messed up electronic shutter ruined that picture and it will ruin your action pictures too but it is okay for mostly still subjects things like portraits a perched bird electronic shutter is great a flying bird you want to go back to the mechanical shutter the electronic shutter slow readout speed will also cause banding under artificial lights with high shutter speeds so if you're shooting faster than say 1 125th of a second maybe 1 250th of a second under artificial lights especially led lights which actually flicker on and off faster than you can see then you're going to see banding like this the slower your shutter speed the more subtle it's going to be but if you're shooting action like indoor sports at a basketball game and you're at one two thousandths of a second not only you're going to get rolling shutter but you're going to get banding like that too again no problem just switch back to the mechanical shutter now i'm going to show you some tricks about reviewing pictures i think it's pretty self-explanatory press the playback button to review photos and there's my smiling face i'll hit the set button here to bring up a menu and you can see on the left side here i can scroll between some useful functions the one i like the most is the reading button this allows me to assign one to five stars i'll set this as 5 stars now when i import those pictures into lightroom or lightroom classic that one will be marked as 5 stars i can instantly sort it and find it amongst the thousands of pictures that i might have taken during a photo shoot or on vacation this is such a useful workflow feature because maybe you're a sports photographer and you have 10 minutes while somebody takes a timeout or between innings you can go through and find the best pictures set them with a rating and then when you go to import them you don't have to go through everything in other words you can do culling in the field by rating your pictures and it saves the amount of time that you're spending at the computer sorting through your photos i also like to delete photos that did not turn out so i don't have to import them that's easy just pull up a picture and then press the delete button when you go to delete a photo it says cancel by default and you have to scroll to the right to select erase and if you want to delete 20 photos that could take a little bit of time i find it easier to set erase to the default they made a menu item just for me and new go to custom settings here page 4 and you can see default erase option select erase selected and now it'll just save you one key press every time you go to erase a photo by default when you take pictures the camera is going to show those to you that's useful if you're taking just one picture and you don't mind chimping but for me so much of the time i don't want to be distracted by reviewing my photos i just want to spend my time shooting so i turn off the auto review feature to do that hit the menu button go over to the camera menu page 8. go down to image review select it and review duration set this to off if you like reviewing your photos and you might want to use the viewfinder to review photos you can set viewfinder display to enable but i don't ever want to view my photos unless i manually choose to canon has provided a few options for the display performance that can make the display look a little bit better be a little bit faster but burn through your batteries a little quicker i'll let you decide which how you want to weigh that compromise but open up the menus go to page nine under display performance you can choose between power saving and smooth smooth looks a little bit better it's just a little smoother but you might never notice if you're a hybrid shooter switching between stills and video there's kind of a confusing thing i wanted to tell you about menu settings will be in different menus we've talked about it a couple of times but sometimes a camera setting will be on page 1 when you're shooting stills or page 3 when you're shooting video i just wanted to bring that to your attention now let's switch to the video mode here we'll look at the actual video settings to talk about the resolution the frame rate and such now when you're in stills this is on a different page so make sure if you're following along that you have the on switch set to video on page one here you can see movie record size this controls the resolution and frame rate of your video and these settings can actually be pretty confusing the default settings are very low quality full hd and 30 frames per second i like 4k and i like 60 frames per second so that's how i would set it up the third option here ipb or light ipb light ipb just makes a smaller more compressed file and my opinion the image quality is just fine and i'd rather save myself some space and increase my total recording time which is shown in the upper right corner there now some of these options are confusing like why are there four different 4k options 4k crop crops in one and a half times that's good for far away subjects and in fact the video quality can be a little bit better i use 4k crop when i'm doing wildlife photography because you know you never really get close enough to birds so i crop in i'll still get that great 4k quality i can still do 60 frames per second but i don't have to crop and post so everything ends up being a little bit sharper 4k here always reads from the full width even when you're shooting at 60 frames per second but it does what's called line skipping where it's not reading every one of the lines on the 30 megapixel sensor and thus the actual quality is a little bit lower than it is on 4k fine look at this example and freeze here enhance you can see the find shows the detail in these flowers which are lost in the standard 4k but as a penalty the 4k fine overheats faster still it recorded for a solid 47 minutes indoors in air conditioning so i want to select 4k fine here but it says these items cannot be combined because you can't do 60 frames per second in 4k fine so i'll drop down to 30 frames per second 4k fine you can also use this camera to shoot slow motion which canon calls high frame rate so once again on the same menu here we're going to set high frame rate to on and you can see now it's telling me it's going to do 1920x1080 that's full hd at 120 frames per second but note that caveat audio is not recorded so it's not going to record sound for your slow motion videos which is a real bummer that means you might want to get an actual recorder and then sync it up to the video in post which is actually going to be pretty hard to do since you don't have any sound to do the automatic syncing save that 120 frames per second for times when you really do need it if you are recording video you should manually adjust the audio levels because the default setting will probably sound really bad down here at sound recording select this and you can see it's sent to auto auto sound recording does not work well when i'm talking there's little gaps between my words and the camera will hear that moment of silence and crank the volume up so you suddenly will hear like ambient noise like whoosh up in every bit of silence and then go back down whenever somebody talks it just sounds like garbage so select sound recording and then set it to manual then hit recording level and you can see the levels here and i'm getting some peaks so i'm a little too loud i it's better to be too low than too loud because you can always crank up the volume in post so to me i like to have it just peeking into the yellows like that that gives me plenty of room and if somebody decides to shout later i'll know i'll have coverage this concludes the hands-on tutorial part of this now i want to talk to you about what lenses you should get what flashes you should get a tripod like accessories to make your photography better am i tired first i want to plug my store northrop.photo head there now to get the award-winning stunning digital photography check out video training series like the art and science of photography check out our professional portrait training our flash training guide and of course books on lightroom and photoshop of course when you buy from northrop.photo you're helping to support a family business it's just me and chelsea why shop amazon prime when you can support small businesses this is where our good little friend tony walks every morning he looks at his pictures that he's working on and then he shut he sends you your thing so this is our brand new lightroom book you can go to amazon and check the reviews but i'd rather you actually order them from our own personal store of course we ship worldwide if you want the paperbacks but you can also just get the ebooks heck you can just buy the books and just watch the videos a lot of people do that now let's talk about len's suggestions for your canon r7 if you happen to get the 18 to 55 kit lens i would strongly recommend upgrading to the 18 to 150 kit lens that's what i have here the thing is 18 to 150 is a much broader range of photography this allows you to do some sports photography far away things and that is a big advantage over your smartphone camera and that's the key reason you probably bought this right you probably want better pictures if you use our scp.io link that's our affiliate link that means we get a little bit of support the first lens i would recommend you getting is the rf 50 millimeter f 1.8 which is only about 180 bucks what a great deal on your rf camera here it ends up being a fantastic portrait lens where it's about like 85 millimeter f28 or so and it will allow you to get just beautiful background blur actual real bokeh that you really can't easily produce with the kit lens if you're shooting sports hold on to your wallet you really want a fast lens that allows you to freeze motion while still giving you good image quality people especially shooting indoor sports with this will complain oh there's so much noise in my pictures why is everything so grainy so speckly it's because your kit lens is pretty slow it has an f-stop of f 6.3 this 70-200 f28 lens gathers about six times more light than this does it's much bigger heavier and definitely more expensive at twenty hundred dollars but the image quality will be drastically drastically better so if you're a serious sports photographer give that lens a consideration if you wanna get into wildlife photography canon has a budget lens here eight hundred dollars that's still a lot but for wildlife photography and the results you get it's absolutely amazing this is my favorite budget recommendation it works fantastic with the r7 the canon 800 millimeter f11 at 900 if you have a few more bucks a more versatile wildlife lens as canon's 100 to 500 that's what me and chelsea use when they're out on the kayak with this r7 especially it works fantastic but it's 2900 dollars it's expensive in addition to all those rf mirrorless lenses you can also use canon dslr lenses which is especially useful if you are upgrading from a canon dslr you just need the ef to rf adapter which is about a hundred bucks put that on your camera then put your dslr lens onto the adapter and everything will work pretty good now let's talk about flash suggestions real quickly i recommend the godox v862c with the wireless trigger this only costs about 240 bucks it is so much cheaper than the wildly overpriced canon flashes that you'll have a bunch of money left over to support a small business and get some photography education which will make a way bigger difference in your photography than just buying gear well this flash opened up so many possibilities for especially for portraits but for things like real estate photography and even sports too lighting makes a big difference be sure to check out our flash buying guide at northrop.photo just and they are total pros and we still use the same 240 flash it's awesome in the studio we use godox also also known as flashpoint in the united states but we like the explore 600 pro wireless check it out at this link here the great thing about these studio strobes is that they're battery powered so we will take it out to the park for a location photo shoot and it works just the same as it does in our studio they're absolutely wonderful and they are expensive but they're so much less expensive than all the competition now let's talk about tripods which support your camera and something everybody needs whether you're filming video and you don't want it to be shaky or you want to get into astrophotography night photography i recommend the manfrotto be free series of tripods that you can pick up at this link pick the one that suits your purpose they have video tripods still tripods with ball heads they have big tripods and small tripods carbon fiber tripods that are a little bit lighter whichever one you get i just i've been happy with the entire series and in fact that's what i'm filming this on right now thank you for watching don't forget to subscribe to our channel to see our free tutorials and reviews and photo news also bookmark this link and come back to it because this was a lot of information there's no way you took all this in one viewing so go back and watch it again and remember to work along with your camera if you have follow-up tips i'd love to hear how you use the r7 write a comment down below of course if you have a question ask in the comments and maybe i'll see it thanks bye

Channel: Tony & Chelsea Northrup

Views: 96,571

Keywords: canon r7, canon eos r7, eos r7, r7, canon mirrorless, canon r7 review, canon r7 camera tutorial, canon r7 tutorial, canon r7 guide, canon r7 video tutorial, canon r7 camera settings, camera settings, canon r7 video, canon eos r7 review, canon eos r7 features, canon r7 for wildlife photography, canon r7 setup, canon aps-c mirrorless

Id: PJV0-ikOhf0

Length: 65min 55sec (3955 seconds)

Published: Sat Aug 13 2022