Canon 6D, 5D Mark III, 7D, T3i, 600D, 5D Mark II ULTIMATE Review and Comparison

hi I'm Tony Northrup and today I have the brand new Canon 6d and I'm going to give it a review for you by performing a series of real-world tests we're going to go over portraits and sports and wildlife and night photography we're also going to cover how it records video and finally we'll follow up with some more objective lab tests for those who are a little more analytical now the Canon 60 is canons new full-frame camera it's the entry-level full-frame camera and the body is priced at about eighteen hundred dollars that's really interesting because the Canon 70 which is their top-end compact camera is at about $1,400 so now you can make that jump to full frame for only about $400 I know a lot of people are going to be wondering if they should upgrade from their Canon 7d so I will answer that question for you I have a 7d here I also have a Canon t3i for those people who are wondering about upgrading from more the entry-level cameras if you're thinking about the higher end cameras I also have a copy of the canon 5d mark ii and the Canon 5d Mark 3 so it's going to be really interesting to see how these different cameras perform in various real-world scenarios testing image quality and low-light abilities and autofocus systems and just general handling so let's get started I have my co photographer and wife back here at Chelsea she's once again agreed to model for us so we're going to take some portraits of her here in this mostly natural lit environment watch this video in 1080p if you can so you see all the detail and I would just ask you like which of these two pictures do you like better at a glance you probably can't see any difference if you you might like this picture better than this picture but it's probably not the camera's image quality it's probably more the head position or the lighting or the expression and I guess the point I'd like to make is that these factors are going to be much more significant than the image quality for things like portraiture that's one of the reasons that for portrait photographers I encourage them to spend less on their camera and on their technique and lighting and post-processing software and when you get really tight in like this I'm a one-to-one so one looking at each individual pixel you do begin to see the differences where this is the 6d here on the right and you can see all the settings are the same this is that ISO 800 and so what you see are much smoother colors on the canon 6d and much less noise i'm going to zoom all the way into 4 to 1 so we can really see what the noise looks like here and you can see over here the noise is still quite visible on the 60 but on the t3i the noise gets pretty grainy and unpleasant but again this is at 4 to 1 this is the type of detail that you need if you're shooting stock photography but the typical portrait photographer doesn't need this at all so I think for anybody but the most nitpicky commercial photographer the t3i is just fine for portraiture you can see in the eye here it's quite a bit noisy over here much smoother over here so general image quality of the 6d is significantly above the t3i but both of them are pretty good another thing I'd like you to take a look at is the depth of field now there are several factors that influence depth of field which is how much the background here is blurred you can learn about depth of field and how to control it in chapter 4 my book stunning digital photography one of the factors is the size of the camera's sensor now I shot these both with the same lens and about the same focal length but you'll see that if you look at this picture in the background you can see this distinct black line here if you look at the same picture in the background here you'll see it's much more blurred you really can't see any of the shapes at all that's because the larger sensor size blurs the background by about 40% or it's about a 40% bigger sensor so about 40% more background blur you'll also notice that this picture frame here is smaller than it is here that's because the t3i in the 70 as well both have cropped sensors so they're really just taking the center of the image it would be like cropping just this part of the image to take the picture of Chelsea here with her face the same size as it is here and to use the same focal length I had to take several steps back which means I needed more working distance and that's actually kind of a nice thing with portraiture you don't want to be too close my other option would have just been to zoom back a little bit but I wanted to try to keep the focal lengths constant so one of the side effects because I had to step back farther that leads to more compression of the background which means the background here is larger but as I said before it's also less blurred you're considering upgrading from any compact camera to any full-frame camera you can expect to get nicer image quality especially in shadows just meaning less noise and you can expect to get more background blur about 40% more so let's compare the t3i and the canon 7d these are both compact cameras I'll zoom in to four to one so we can see any sort of noise really clearly and this really seems pretty comparable and the fact of the matter is that Canon and all the camera manufacturers have kind of hit the limit of what they can do with a particular sensor size so to get better image quality they really need to increase the size of the sensor so you can upgrade between different compact sensor cameras but you're not going to see a big difference in image quality even if the megapixels change some the only real jump you'll see in image quality is going from a compact camera to a full-frame camera you have the mark 2 on the left and the 60 on the right here and that one-to-one I really can't see any difference in image quality so I'll zoom in to four to one and as before they're both full-frame cameras even though the mark 2 is quite old the difference here is indistinguishable so now let's compare the 6d to the mark 3 now as with the mark 2 the image quality between the 60 and the mark 3 isn't going to be any different but it would like to make a pretty important point here I focused on Chelsea's nearest eye using the most outside corner sensor and you can see the mark 3 allowed me to put Chelsea much closer to the edge of the frame if I were using the 60 and I wanted Chelsea's eye to be over here I would use the focus and recompose technique but focus recompose isn't particularly precise especially when you're using pro lenses and really short depth of field just to give you an idea of how short the depth of field is with this portrait lens I'll zoom into one-to-one here and you can see that while this eye is completely sharp this eye is completely blurred okis recomposed changes that focal plane just a little bit and leads to everything being a little bit out of focus so it really is helpful to have the focusing sensors as far out as possible because it just gives you the most flexibility even if you don't need that extra focusing speed well in summary I think the best value for you is to get a compact camera at the type of work that you're doing is natural light portraits unless your budget is more than like three thousand dollars I'd get a base-model camera like a t3 and put the rest of your money into lenses and flashes and maybe a tripod and backgrounds and light modifiers all those things that will make your portraits noticeably better the more expensive cameras will not make natural light portraits noticeably better now I did find a little bit of image quality improvement going from the t3i to the 7d and then from the 72 any of the full-frame cameras but really just splitting hairs I don't think these differences are differences that anybody would notice looking at an 8 by 10 or 11 by 14 print you really won't see the difference where you will see the difference is by spending more money on good lenses for your portraiture if you decide you do want to go to the full-frame cameras while the 60 presents really the best value once again the autofocus system is not nearly as good as the Canon 5d Mark 3 and if you are super rich and you don't care about the extra you know $1,200 or whatever the difference between the 6d and the mark 3 is at the time then go ahead and get the mark 3 because it's clearing out going away a better camera I love that the autofocus points go right to the left and right thirds of the frame that lets you just put the eye at that 3rd and focus right on it without having to do focus and recompose it makes the shoot go quite a bit faster but how much is your time worth is it worth more than $1000 to speed up those shoots by a fraction of a second that it takes to focus and recompose well if you're interested in the focus and recompose technique check out chapter for my book standing digital photography and check out Chapter six of sending digital photography tons of information about portrait techniques including lighting and equipment now I would like to take some shots in the studio and I'm not doing this just represents studio portraiture but I'd like to represent anytime you have kind of ideal lighting if you happen to be outdoors and it's nice and sunny and you can shoot it ISO 100 this is going to be a good test for what the camera's image quality is going to be under ideal circumstances now we have a still subject here so I'm not worried about the auto focusing and we don't need to worry about high ISO noise or anything like that just the best quality we can hope for so let's see how each of the cameras performs in the studio back at the computer let's jump right into the most intense part of the test we'll look at a close-up of Chelsea's I zoomed in 8 to 1 so it says 8 pixels for every real pixel and this is comparing the 7d with a compact sensor to the 60 and I'm hard-pressed to find any visible difference I would not be able to distinguish between these two cameras if I didn't already know they're both render skin tones really beautifully and there's just intense amounts of detail as with the 70 the skin tones here are just beautiful and there's just tons of detail and I'm unable to distinguish the difference in the image quality between the two cameras if you're going to be working in a studio or even if you just know you're shooting still subjects and ideal conditions I think any of those bodies or even the lower end Canon bodies would be just fine I see lots of pro portrait photographers working with the base models even the t3 and they get great results because it's not so much about the auto focusing system or even the image quality as it is about having nice lights and good poses and being able to work with people those are much more important factors and something I'd like to bring up if you're thinking about going for the 5d mark 3 and this is a style of shooting that you do well you are probably going to be better off getting the 60 that will save you about $1500 American and that's enough money to buy this whole set that you see here lights backdrop everything and do you think you're going to do take better pictures with 5d mark 3 and no studio or a 6d and a full studio so it's all about how you spend your money and your money might be better spent on lights and software and props and such I'll so add that there are a couple of usability differences between the different cameras now I'm kind of spoiled by the 5d Mark 3 and it's really wide autofocus range I can select an autofocus point just about anywhere on the sensor and focus on the person's eye even if their eye is way off center that means I don't have to do the focus recompose technique that I described in chapter 4 now it's okay to do the focus and recompose especially in a studio where you're probably using a higher f-stop number and you have a longer depth of field but does slow down the process a little bit so the 5d Mark 3 definitely nice to have but unless you have a huge budget it's probably better off spending your money elsewhere the single most common reason I hear people want to upgrade their camera is that they can't get good pictures of their kids sporting events it's always in indoor sporting event like basketball or volleyball or indoor soccer and the problem is their pictures are blurry either the shutter speed is too slow and there's motion blur or their camera just isn't focusing on the action so it's hard for me to go take pictures of an actual sporting event to use for this test because I would need model releases for everybody on the field and their course from their parents and then people in the stands even so I'm isolating my favorite athlete here my daughter and I'm going to have her walk and then run up this hallway now it's dark out so I'm relying entirely on artificial lights which is pretty realistic for what you would see in a gym and I'm going to use this to simulate both sporting events and indoor weddings where people need to use a camera to photograph people say dancing now I'm going to set the camera to continuous focus I'm going to use the center auto focusing point that lens I'm using is the at 24 to 105 F for because I think it's close as to what the typical camera user is going to be using so let's take a look at some pictures I took several hundred pictures with each camera and here's a sampling of the results we can check out the image quality first I'll compare the t3i to the 7d or do think the image quality itself is pretty similar which is to say both are really really bad so now let's compare the 70 and the 60 here we see the benefits of the modern full-frame canon camera the image quality is just much much better than the 70 and in fact you'll see that the 60s auto exposure system shows a higher ISO chose ISO 20000 compared to the 70s top end limit of twelve thousand eight hundred so the fact that it's natively designed to work with these higher ISOs really allows it to provide a strikingly better image quality this on the right the picture from the sixty I think is usable you could put this on Facebook you could even make a print the picture from the 70s really pretty unusable like just look at the detail around the eye here you can barely see the iris at all even zoomed out like this the difference is pretty distinct you see just visible amounts of noise even at this really small scale and over here no noise at all at this level no noticeable noise here we have the 60 and the 5d Mark 3 and image quality wise I really don't see a difference here even zoomed n they both look good let's take a look at the 5d mark ii versus the 60 I actually feel like the 60 did a better job than the mark ii did here it's showing quite a bit more detail too if you look at her earring so i feel like because the 60 was designed for these higher ISOs and designed to work in better light it actually does a significantly better job than the mark ii but I feel like the 60 is on par with the mark 3 as far as image quality goes in most of these comparisons I'm finding not a dramatic difference between the image quality between the different cameras but this sports segment has proved something very different the full-frame cameras really shine here now everybody complains about the auto focusing system on the 6d it's certainly not as sophisticated as the 5d Mark 3 but I found it was actually better than the 70s autofocus system and the sixties image quality was just so so so much better at those high ISOs that you have to use in indoor gym environment so if you're looking to take pictures of your kids basketball or volleyball game and they're playing indoors I really think you can't beat either the 60 or the mark 3 now if you're comparing the 60 or the mark 3 they have similar image quality and the mark 3s autofocus system is definitely definitely better with the 60 you'll be limited to using that center autofocus point and you really have to make a point to keep it on a contrast II part of the subject maybe that's black lettering on a white jersey you and you wouldn't want to keep it on say a person's face which doesn't have a lot of contrast in it so with the mark 3 you kind of get more flexibility the mark 3 is easier to use because the mark 3 will just focus on anything just about any part of the frame you can use so many of the different auto focusing points to record action the 6d you're stuck using that Center auto focus point which means if you want say your subject to be in the right 2/3 of the frame something I discuss in chapter 2 of sending digital photography the rule of thirds well you're going to have to do that by cropping because you're always going to be auto focusing in the center of the picture and cropping is ok especially in sports where subjects tend to be far enough away that you can't reach them with your telephoto zoom anyway another important factor in sports is the frame rate how many pictures you can take in a second and here the 70 is the clear winner it takes pictures really fast about 8 pictures a second which is faster than any of the other cameras even the 5d Mark 3 there is a problem with the 7d though and that's that if you're shooting raw the buffer fills up really quickly in just a couple of seconds and suddenly your camera stops taking pictures and that can be really frustrating because means you have to capture you have to start taking pictures at that very second when your kid is about to score a touchdown or make a basket you can't just keep shooting pictures for multiple seconds at a time now you might be able to get a memory card that records them a little bit faster but the buffer is still really limited in the 7d if you compared to the 5d Mark 3 I get about 33 shots in a row on the mark 3 shoots slightly slower but it's still about 6 frames a second so it's almost as fast as the 7 deep now the price difference between the 70 and the mark 3 is pretty huge but point being the mark 3 is definitely the ideal choice for these sorts of indoor sports events the 6d only shoots at about 4 frames a second so it's quite a bit slower you're going to be getting fewer shots and that means you'll have to pick one of those 4 shots that was taken in a second instead of one of six shots and you might not get the precise moment that you want basically if you take more frames per second the odds of getting that perfect moment are a little bit better I think 4 frames a second is plenty though and therefore I think the 6d presents the best value for cameras used for these sorts of indoor sports events now if you're rich or your sports events pictures are really really important to you by all means get the 5d Mark 3 or maybe even upgrade to the 1d series the really expensive 6 to 7 thousand dollar camera bodies oh and one more thing the cameras have different maximum shutter speeds the t3i and the Canon 6d have a maximum shutter speed of 1/4 thousandths of a second that's the fastest the shutter can cycle the 70 and the 5d Mark to in the 5d Mark 3 all supported maximum shutter speed of 1/8 thousandth of a second so that's twice as fast basically now for typical sporting events you are shooting at maybe one 500th one one thousandth one mm there's not even too much of a reason to ever need to go to one for thousandth but if you are shooting a particular event that requires really really fast shutter speeds I can't even think of anything every now and then somebody really needs one eight thousandths of a second so you'll need to either get the 70 or the mark 2 or the mark 3 for that Josie and I have spent the last several days chasing birds and other types of wildlife with the different camera bodies so let's take a look at how those images turned out let's start by examining a test of the focusing here's an example this is the mark 3 and you can see most of these shots are in focus this one's out of focus and this one's in focus and out of focus and out of focus this is how wildlife shots typically go if you have a moving subject like this you'll get some shots in focus and any given set and some will be out of focus I redid all the ones that were in focus with three stars and the ones that were out of focus with one star so let's look at just the 6d pictures and you can kind of judge by the number of ratings here that are in focus and out of focus to see how it did you can see that as Birds get closer it becomes much more challenging on the focusing system the focusing system just has to work harder it's also harder on the photographer because the birds move around in the framework and you can see here that out of these shots the 6d got only one properly in focus and the rest were pretty well out of focus as the birds were farther away the focusing worked much better just because it's easier the focusing system has less work to do and it's also easier for the photographer to keep that center focusing point right on the birds that was the challenge with the 6d I had to use the center focusing point only with the mark 3 I could expand it because it just has more cross-type sensors they just work better and having that wide focusing area made it much faster overall the way it turned out is the mark 3 got about 67% of the shots in focus and the 60 got 56% of the shots in focus so that gives the mark 3 about 20% more shots in focus just because of the improved auto focusing system however there's another factor the mark 3 shoots at 6 frames per second the 6d shoots at four-and-a-half frames per second so the mark 3 is taking more shots and getting more in focus that means that on any given run with a say a bird coming you when you're taking pictures you're going to get about 60% more in focus shots with the mark 3 I just want to show this shot off in the few days that I had these 60 I did manage to track down an immature bald eagle and the focusing system worked great on 60 it delivered let's take a look at the detail test which is designed to compare the 7d compact sensor versus the two full-frame vent sensors to determine whether the compact sensor really gives you more data or not as you compare the mark 3 and the 6d we see similar amounts of detail which is to be expected the sensors are just about the same for still subjects where the focusing isn't so much of an issue or the subjects moving slowly like a burden of water here either camera will do just fine let's compare this 7d and the 6d now this is really interesting because the Canon 7d has a compact sensor essentially it brings you 60% closer so it turned my 500 millimeter lens into an 800 millimeter lens that's why the subject is so much bigger in the frame on the 6d the bird is quite a bit smaller even though it was at the same distance so that compact sensor is a disadvantage in most areas of photography especially in areas where you want to minimize the amount of noise but it's a huge advantage when you're shooting wildlife I see a great deal of grain here on both cameras it was quite dark it was overcast and snowing you wouldn't see this on a sunny day you'd be able to shoot at ISO 100 and get nice clean shots but even though these pictures are grainy you can see that there's a ton more detail in the 7d specifically look at the water on the duck's back here you can see little droplets quite clearly and then if you look at the picture on the 60 or the mark 3 you see you just really can't see that level of detail the picture on the 70 really looks much better and for that reason I'm going to recommend that the 7d be your choice for wildlife photography any time you can't fill the frame with your subject now if you can fill your 500 millimeter lens or whatever telephoto lens you're using with your subject and a full-frame camera the full-frame camera will definitely give you more detail if you read chapter 8 in stunning digital photography you'll learn how to set up a songbirds to let you get really close to songbirds and I fill the frame all the time with my 5d Mark 3 and get incredible detail with it but when you're out in the field and you're trying to get close to wild animals you just can't get as close as you want and you always end up cropping no matter how big your lens is the 5d Mark 3 is the penultimate choice if you can spend 10 K on a body and lens get that if your budget is under 3 grand I would go for the 7d so now we're going to test the cameras night photography capabilities now all these cameras will be able to take great shots at night at ISO 100 but here's what we'll see the differences some of the cameras will be able to better recover blown out highlights like you see in the house behind me and some of them will show more shadow detail these are the characteristics that we look for in a good camera for night photography lots of dynamic range so we shooting raw with all of them and then we'll be able to push and pull the pictures a little bit in Lightroom to see how much detail we can recover I'm also going to look at the cameras ability to focus at night because when you're shooting at night well often you can't get enough light to properly focus and manually focusing is really tough because you're I simply can't see so it's going to be easy focusing on the lights but I'll also take the cameras and try to focus in darker situations and report back to you on how they work finally I'll take a look and see which of the cameras have an electronic level that's something I find really useful at night because you can't see well enough to level your camera physically with your own eye here we are in Lightroom looking at the images from the five different cameras you can see this really did test out the extreme dynamic range we have a bunch of information shadow area of histogram here and then some in the peak highlight area even going off the right side of the histogram so we can measure both the shadow detail and highlight recovery start by comparing the highlight recovery in the t3i to the canon 6d there's quite a bit more detail recovered by the 6d there's this white lattice that is blocking part of the light and on the t3i you can just barely see these points at the corners and on the 60 it shows quite a bit more detail in the lat despite the fact that the t3i is zoomed in substantially more what this tells us is that the 60 has significantly more dynamic range than the t3i when your highlights are blown out you'll be able to recover them better on the 60 and that happens a lot when you're shooting at night in the city so let's adjust that exposure again so we can check out the shadow detail this time we'll over expose everything intentionally and I will zoom way into four to one so that we can see the individual pixels really clearly so looking at the same part of the two images you can see that the noise over here is much smoother than it is over here now interestingly my house is actually blue so this red color I can't necessarily explain it could be a white balance issue or could it be some rain on the lens or something else Barbara was just looking at the noise levels we can see there quite a bit lower on the 16 that makes sense because it's a full-frame camera we should get better image quality in banana grain so now let's take a look at the canon 7d versus the t3i this is the solid area of the sky so this should be completely smooth certainly was to my eye and this is all digital noise magnified 4 to 1 and looking at these two I really can't perceive any difference I think the 7d has a little bit less noise than the t3 I mean that it goes for about two and a half times more I would expect that but the difference zoomed back like this is completely insignificant I really can't tell any difference between the two bodies but in fact at this zoom level you can't even tell the difference between the 60 and the t3i and the point I'd like to make is that these are all awesome cameras and you have to be really really nitpicky like I am going in 4 pixels to 1 pixel just to be able to distinguish the difference between the cameras and what you really get for the extra thousands of dollars so the 60s better than t3i and the 70 is better than the g3 I let's compare the 70 and the 60 the 70 of course on the right here being a compact sensor and the 60 being full-frame once again looking at a solid area of the sky the 60 has substantially less noise than the 7d so the full-frame sensor make a difference here in reducing invisible noise well let's do the same comparison between the mark 3 and the 6d and here I really don't see any difference let's look at the 6d versus the mark 2 again I really don't see any difference so one final comparison between the mark 3 and the mark 2 and again really no noticeable difference in these shadow areas so that gives you a good idea of how the camera's image quality performs at night at ISO 100 now if you're interested in night photography techniques and getting those nice clear shots at night check out chapter 10 of stunning digital photography my book now the compact cameras had noticeably more noise than the full-frame cameras but I can't say that I saw a whole lot of difference between the t3i and the much more expensive 7d and I didn't see any noticeable difference between the Canon 6d and the more expensive 5d mark ii or much more expensive 5d Mark 3 so image quality is your main concern I think the 6d presents the best value but you should know you can go for even the base model Canon and get really great results at night you don't need to spend much more to be happy with your pictures now there are other factors that influence night photography and to me the most important is having a good live view display because it's difficult to look through the viewfinder often at night often there's not enough light to see well with your eye as you're looking through the viewfinder and because the camera is mounted on a tripod it's often at a weird angle that's difficult to get your head down to therefore it's really nice to be able to use live view whenever you can at night the t3i has a unique feature in that lineup and that has an articulating display so you can flip out the screen and watch the live view from any angle so if the camera is low to the ground you can just pull out the display and turn it up too however the display isn't all that bright as it gets dark now in a city you're going to be able to use that just great so if most of your night photography's in the city go for the t3i that articulating display is really helpful throughout trying to take pictures of stars this display goes completely black and it's completely useless and you're only going to be able to put your eye up to the viewfinder and look through it seven D and the other cameras don't have that articulating display but you can use the live view on all of them unfortunately the 7d and the mark two also don't have bright live view displays that you can see in rural areas at night they'll work in the city but not in total darkness that you get out in the countryside the mark 3 and the Canon 6d the newer of the two cameras have this great live view display that actually amplifies the light coming in so it's actually easier to see your surroundings on the live view display than it is by looking through the viewfinder it's almost like having night-vision goggles and they work just great so for the avid night photographer I would definitely push you to one of those two cameras the mark 3 or the 6d for the purpose of using that bright live view display now the 60 is much cheaper than the mark 3 so I would urge you to get that one because I think it's the best value I'm Otto focusing really various between the cameras - the 7d and the t3 I really struggled autofocusing at night and so did the mark 2 even when using the center autofocus point the mark 3 and the 6d both do much better they all need some help in really deep darkness especially out in the woods and I give you techniques to improve your auto focusing in chapter 10 of stunning digital photography but I found that the 6d actually autofocuses and slightly more darkness than the mark 3 and that does correspond to what Canon is saying about the cameras they say that the 6d focuses down to negative 3 evey which is just a really dark level of brightness and that's quite a bit better than the mark 3 does which goes down to negative 2 evey so I don't know that you should switch from the mark 3 to the 6d for that but if you're looking for a new night camera the 6d does better than any of the others that last point I really like is an electronic level built into the cameras and the 7d the 60 and the mark 3 all have that electronic level the mark 2 and the T 3 I don't the reason you need an electronic level at night is it's difficult to see through the viewfinder to get the horizon level but once you go back and process your pictures it'll be obvious especially if you're taking pictures of buildings or the skyline say at an ocean so the electronic level gets lets you get the horizon level at the time you're taking the picture if you don't have that then you're going to be on your computer leveling things in post which means the pictures get cropped it down to smaller proportions and you lose some megapixels and therefore a little bit of detail and maybe even an important feature in your picture you can get a bubble level that fits into the hot shoe of your camera for just a couple of dollars but they're kind of a pain and you're fumbling around your bag trying to find it at night anyway it's just really nice to have that electronic level in there but it's definitely not a need to have so in summary the 6d is the best camera I've ever used for night photography now for what is in my opinion the least important of the tests and this is the lab test I took it to the different cameras and mounted them to the same lens attached to a tripod and took pictures of a little setup that I created to simulate skin tones and a great deal of shadows and highlights with different colors so let's dig right in and see how the different cameras did so I'm just going to give you the highlights here I'll start out with a comparison of the t3i and the 7d at ISO 100 and what we see here and throughout all the tests is that the 7d has significantly less noise and the t3i zooming in to four to one we see that the t3i here on the left has significantly more noise than the 7d um however zooming back you probably would never notice a difference so you won't necessarily see it on Facebook you might not notice that in a print but if you're a pixel peeper you will notice it also notice that even at ISO 100 the 7d has richer colors the saturation is just overall better and truer so let's compare the 70 to the 6d this is a really interesting comparison because the 6d is just $400 more my feeling is you get substantially better image quality that the jump is even bigger than the jump from the t3i to the 7d was going to that full-frame sensor really makes a big difference and you know this is a four to one zoom of the yellow parts of the image and what we see here is just much less noise on the 60 at the same time nobody's ever going to notice it on Facebook even in an 8 by 10 print but if you're doing say commercial work or if you're just obsessed with pixels while the 60 does give you that extra cleanliness that you might be looking for let's just look at these letters and how they each render them the 70 as you can see put this red friend around all of the letters just white on black none of these extra colors exists in the real world and the 60 on the other hand give it this unnatural green fringe its chromatic aberration and it happens with every camera a word about the processing I process all of these using Lightroom I shot raw within the camera and then process them using the default setting so the processing is identical and from raw in the test I found the 60 had the least chromatic aberration but there are definitely examples where the 60 has worst chromatic aberration any other cameras so let's compare the 60 and the Mark three at ISO 100 here in the yellows we can see the 60 has substantially less noise in my opinion at ISO 100 than me Oh mark 3 did check out the chromatic aberration on the two cameras in this particular example we can see the mark 3 separations far worse than the 60 the 60 has a little Bluegreen fringing at the top of the oh here whereas the mark 3 renders it with this just distinct outline around all the letters it so overall the image quality you'd have a hard time distinguishing the images taken by the 60 or the mark 3 under any normal circumstances but really pixel peeping I think though 6d is a little bit cleaner well let's jump up to ISO 1600 just for the sake of comparison let's look at the t3i versus the 6d at this zoom level you can see the 60 renders colors a little bit richer and everything in general looks smoother to my eye check out the shadow detail on the yellows and blues and and here we can really see this noise on the t3i is much worse than it is on the 60 check out the eye detail on my dad and here in the flesh tones and the well exposed parts of the picture we can still see a substantial noise on the t3i that we don't see on the 60s so no doubt the 60 is a big step up from the compact sensors let's compare it to the mark 3 and here to my eye at the flesh tones eye I couldn't distinguish between these two pictures I wouldn't know they were taking the different cameras thinking about upgrading from the mark 2 to the 6d here in the shadows I think the 6d is a little bit cleaner same thing here a little bit cleaner a little bit better rendering let's quickly look at the differences at ISO 6400 this is really pushing the boundaries of both the t3i and 7d and it shows the image quality is pretty bad and if you're curious about the 70 versus the 60 here's the difference you know once again the 60 is just better like look at the shadow detail here in the detail in the eye just looks nicer cleaner you're in the forehead especially the these skin tones are just much more jagged on the 70 and much smoother on the 60 so that you know that's a good upgrade quickly compare deep mark 3 versus the 6d and you know looking at this it's hard to tell the difference again but I feel like the 60 is just a little bit smoother especially in the shadow areas looking at the skin tones here smoother still let's jump up to ISO 25600 I think one of the big perceived advantages of the 6d and Mark 3 or that they have these higher ISOs but honestly so do the other cameras you just have to know to push them and pull the exposures so that you basically under expose the picture and then adjust it in post zoom back you can see at this level the 70 just as before has richer colors and smoother grains and when you zoom in you can see they're both terrible but the 70 is a little bit cleaner let's compare the 70 to the 60 at this ISO 25600 and here you can see boy the 60 just looks much much better the colors are nice and rich this blurred background here is nice and smooth whereas it is just much much noisier here on the 7d and if you just look at this eye detail here you can see one-sixty is just much cleaner and neater than it is on the 70 so of course the 60 has better image quality look at the 60 versus the mark 3 and it one to one I just can't see any difference you know zoom in a little bit let's get into three two one you know I felt like the 60 had some distinct but slight advantage at the other ISOs and I'm just not seeing it here at ISO 25000 all the way to iso 100,000 now on both the t3i and the 7d I had to pull this three stops so they end up looking pretty terrible if you compare that 70 to the 60 once again you can see just much richer colors in summary all of the cameras have great image quality up and through say ISO 800 and that's good news because that's where you spend most of your time as you start to get into the higher and higher ISOs we start to see big differences between the compact cameras and the full-frame cameras surprisingly the best camera all around was the canon 6d and i say it's surprising because it is the entry-level full-frame model it's quite a bit less expensive than the 5d Mark 3 but in my opinion it did better now I would like to show you the Wi-Fi settings and how they work you can see in this long set of menus it's the fourth from the right there Wi-Fi is disabled by default so you need to go in and enable it now once you enable it you select Wi-Fi function and you can choose the type of device that you want to connect to you can transfer images to another camera that supports it or to a printer or to a web service or to a TV that supports a DLNA or probably most useful is to transfer it to a computer using the remote EEOC app I will go in and connect to the smartphone here and I'm going to change the settings and we'll just go through the setting process again so you can see here that they give you the choice between a camera access point mode or an infrastructure mode cameras access point mode is going to be much faster than the infrastructure mode and infrastructure mode you have to connect to a wireless access point so but I would always recommend using the camera access point mode this sets it up as its own access point now the easy connection is certainly the right option but you can use the manual connect if you want to specify settings for it so you can see now it's telling me that the smartphone needs to connect using a connect to the C network here so I'll go into my settings Wi-Fi settings and okay now we can see it prompts me for a network I need to connect to see and I need to do this every time I connect to the camera using the with the camera acting as the access point so unable to join the network see great so now I'm connected and you can see that the camera automatically detected my connection and it's only me now to start the EOS app on the smart phone so I will fire that up and all right now it's prompted me to connect to a particular camera there could theoretically be more than one cameras here I suppose and now we're connected now at this point I can go back to using the camera here okay so next I need to actually go and select okay here I guess and then okay okay now I just disconnected alright good so now says we're connected to the camera go to camera image viewing alright good so now we can see some actual pictures here I can tap to open them there we go and you can see I can zoom in and see the pictures with a little more detail now I have the option here to download the file to my phone and from there I could I guess upload it to Facebook I can also zoom in here to a pretty good level of detail and you know just to make sure that the focus is critical and working well and and you can see I have the option to delete pictures by clicking the delete button here so you can perform some file management capabilities from this app now I also have the ability to do remote shooting from here and what this does is it basically copies your screen from this over to that and you can push the shutter button here to focus and shoot move on something it can focus on so I actually don't know why anybody would want to use that but that's how it works and this is my test of the video wall ray wall ray is this interference pattern that happens with very fine patterns and checker boards now you'll see it when you're looking at brick walls or more commonly striped and checkered shirts that's why I've changed my shirt here now you've never seen me wear this shirt before and the reason is that it's a videographers nightmare because it causes these crazy interference patterns so looking at these results we can see the mark 3 is a little bit better than the mark 2 and the mark 2 is a little bit better than the 60 but before you go spend $3,500 on a mark 3 let's talk about the differences and how much it's really worth - now first a videographer if somebody showed up in a shirt like this you have them change their sure you just never film somebody in a shirt like this so this kind of thing is easily controlled you'll also see moiré when you're filming say brick walls and it can look pretty crazy going through a city scene especially if you're panning if it's a static shot you don't notice it as much but if it's a moving shot judge for yourself whether spending almost twice as much is worth it to get a little bit better rendering of a shirt like this I'm standing at this stairwell now because of the prominent vertical lines in it I want to demonstrate a problem with all DSLR video and it's called be poling shutter sometimes referred to as tearing and what happens is as you pan back and forth across frame the vertical lines in it will become slanted to the left or right and the faster you pan the more prominent it is if you're planning to record some action films and you're going to be running through the streets this could be a noticeable problem if it's an amateur video I doubt anybody is going to notice but if you're trying to record something professional for broadcast rolling shutter who's pretty much going to rule out using DSLR cameras for any sort of professional video so let's take a look at this effect on a different camera bodies first we have the Canon 7d now you'll notice that as I and faster and faster the effect becomes more and more prominent I'll just freeze the frame here so we can see what it looks like with those vertical lines now leaning quite significantly now let's take a look at that on the canon 6d the canon 5d mark ii and finally the 5d mark 3 did you notice which of those cameras had the least rolling shutter effect neither did I you honestly can't tell and more scientific studies in this have shown the same thing they all demonstrate a rolling shutter so if you want to avoid that rolling showing technique don't buy a DSLR camera to use for video get a dedicated video camera that's the only way to get around it spending more money on the 5d Mark 3 won't make any difference for that now I'm recording this segment on the 7d and I've been recording the other segments on the full frame cameras you probably didn't notice because the video quality in 70 is really good but it has one fatal flaw and that's that you cannot set the audio gain manually the audio gain is always set automatically so what will happen is during quiet times it will try to up the audio and if there's a lot of noise it will try to reduce the audio gain so it's always kind of chasing the audio levels the Canon 5d Mark 2 and finally the 5d mark 3 what you can do is instead of record into an external recorder I used to use a zoom h4n for this and that works you have to record into the recorder and you have to like make a clapping sound at the beginning so that you can sync the audio with the camera's video and you have to record this you have to carry around this extra recorder and you have to keep batteries on it and sometimes you're going to forget to start the recorder anyway it's more to carry it's more to go wrong so I found that I much prefer to use the in-camera audio with an external mic I have n lavalier mic here from cent Hauser and that works out great for me but if you have to record video with 70 that's going to be a problem I just wouldn't pick the 70 if you plan on editing your audio so that was quite a test and you can see that the different cameras performed different tasks in different ways and sometimes for some of us it's going to be worth spending the money on the top-end 5d Mark 3 for example if you're really into sports or wildlife photography and you have a high budget for many other tasks the very low end cameras like the t3 and the t3 I will remain my recommendation I still recommend the average beginner get a t3 kit used you can get or about 300 bucks now they have a great lens they will take images that will still look beautiful ten years from now and for most people will be completely insertable from the higher end cameras and because you're saving yourself some money on the camera body you get to spend more money on gadgets on lenses and flashes and studio lights if that's what you're into tripods and memory card and software like Photoshop and Lightroom so I urge you not to blow your whole budget on a camera body and that's what a lot of people do the 7d is going to remain my recommendation for people doing photography who have a budget say under $2,500 for everybody who has a budget in say the 2,000 to 4,000 dollar range doing just about any other type of photography I'm going to start pushing them towards the Canon 6d now in the past the 5d mark ii had been my wreck for that sort of price range specifically I was recommending people get a used 5d Mark to a used 5d mark ii is still a great value because you can get those bodies for even less than the 6d but the 6d has quite a few improvements that make it a much better camera than the mark 2 at night the live view display is just so much better that it's just a pleasure to use and the improved auto focusing system with that Center auto focus point at night really does help out in the real world now for portraits and video I really couldn't see much of a difference between the 60 and the 5d mark ii i know some people will say the 5d mark ii s-video is better but it was just by hair at the most i wouldn't say it would be worth selling your camera and getting a 5d Mark - if that were the case I'll say magic lantern is out for the 5d mark ii now and that helps some but i know magic lantern is going to be out for the 60 real soon so you'll be able to get all those features for your 60 the top-end 5d Mark 3 the price is starting to come down I still think it's overpriced especially with the introduction of the 6d all of my tests showed that the 6d had slightly better image quality than the 5d Mark 3 the mark 3 still has some improved usability features like the focusing system is clear in a way the best I've ever used and while it's faster than the 60 no doubt my favorite feature of it is just that the focusing points are farther out towards the edges of the frame that means you can focus without using focus and recompose much more easily and that means you get your shots in quicker especially shots of action because you can use so many more points for following continuous shooting so there are my recommendations if you have a ton of money if you're a rich guy get the 5d Mark 3 if your primary concern is image quality if you just want great images and you're an amateur and have a little bit of time and you have a couple of grand to spend get the 60 for wildlife photographers the 70 remains my recommendation I'm excited to see the 70 mark to come out and for everybody who's just beginning in photography just go for the base level camera specifically shop used you know the t4i and the t5i are out now I know this I still am pushing people to the t3 or the t3i because they're available at much lower prices they're readily available on the used market and they haven't really made any substantial improvements in the newer generation so basically just go find the cheapest camera kit you can and your best with it and enjoy it one more thing if you like this video if you like my style check out my book stunning digital photography it has all the information you need to actually take great pictures so once you get a camera that you like and your pictures aren't turning out the way you hoped well you have to spend some time learning so this is a really inexpensive way to do it and I have about three and a half and hours of video in it and constantly growing because I'm always adding new videos to it you also get access to a private group on Facebook where I personally will help you out and you'll get the benefit of working closely with other people who are reading the same material and studying to improve their photography you also get free updates for life so as new camera technologies come out I will be there showing you just how that changes your photographic techniques

Channel: Tony & Chelsea Northrup

Views: 700,076

Rating: 4.8881774 out of 5

Keywords: training, how-to, how, to, photography, tutorial, canon, nikon, dslr, stunning, digital, photo, picture, pictures, camera, Canon (company), review, Canon EOS 7D (Digital Camera), 6d, 7d, t3i, 5d2, 5d3, 5d mark ii, 5d mark iii, 5d mark 2, Canon EOS 5D (Digital Camera), 5d mark 3

Id: sX_I9KPPdWY

Length: 53min 12sec (3192 seconds)

Published: Mon Mar 25 2013