Cadillac ATS 2.5 Luxury: Engine Replacement - Part I

all right folks 2015 Cadillac it's the ATS it's got the big 25 luxury whatever that means and uh apparently the engine is no good the guy brought me the car he brought me the engine and says swap it out so that's what we're gonna do uh I've never done one this car's rear wheel drive I did look in service data don't know much about them and I think what we'll do in this case and in most cases when it's a job I've never done I do it by the book uh the first go around until you learn some tips and tricks so that's what we're going to do camera service data let's get afro step one with disconnect negative battery and it already is I had to throw the uh charger on it battery was Stone dead but rest assured it's unhooked step two it's a discharge AC system so we'll get this going Oh wrong one [Applause] wait for the AC to pull down step three we need to drain the cooling let's do that we got to take all these air deflections off so we're gonna work on those foreign deflector don't I think the other side's busted so I can't tell it's supposed to be oh yeah okay so let's set upside down now we got to get the clips across the front of it sounds like our AC machine is done it's getting loose is that everything oh no it must be one more screw here in the front oh gosh dang it there is got that I didn't take any screws out of the other side and that side it's loose collector should come down huh no the little clip for the one over on the left side is right here but I didn't take a screw out of it because I saw this back corner here is busted it's supposed to look like that there but that side's broke before we take that front one off let's unhook these that way we can reach the vehicle up all the way and that'll be a lot handier it's been hunched over there there's that I hope the cast back we don't lose them and it looks like we took out 15 ounces of the refrigerant we'll rate that down so we don't forget [Applause] wrong size completely still the wrong size wow this shouldn't go well we'll try again third time third time I'm gonna put it on the impact because I know I'm right oh yeah first try oh dropped it fail I thought it was kind of sliding out there [Music] oh there's a rubber piece up above it kind of gotta flick that up pick up the screw right before and there's that little fella there I think it's kind of a picture about these cars is everything is aluminum so find a place to put your lights kind of tricky we're gonna pull this little rubber deflector off here possibly without crushing your fingernail just has little push Downs in it February guys you're riding a Harley that's die hard so there's some little push nails you gotta be dedicated to be doing that boys right all right and then let's see let's try to find peacock here on the radiator should be around here somewhere no we'll keep poking oh it's over here on the side well we're almost done taking this whole little deflector off [Music] there's that side whoa easy I'll come up and get the other side here I'll try to do most of the video so you can't see anything freaking classic cars sitting on the light I have to have a headlight for this job I think if it's not plastic it's aluminum make some lightweight I guess oh this one might have a little something more over here oh yeah this side is way more involved it goes all the way up to the core sport so we're just going to leave that well enough alone we'll leave her hanging yeah because for some reason let me see unless this side is broken foreign [Music] I think we're okay we can get to the petcock it may be broken this thing has overspray on stuff so apparently it's been in a collision at some point what is that rough 15 000 miles or 18 000 miles not many miles on it but that makes sense why some of this plastic stuff is broken on a car with no Miles because there's overspray on the side of the radiator here so we know it's have some body shot stuff let's get some pliers oh I guess this guy's just being a horse there she goes all right so all that bad drain and that'll complete step number three finishing off peeing down there feeling like it's got swollen prostate to open this baby up maybe that'll help the flow foreign [Music] cover off here take that bolt out take that thing off put that back on there boy she's pretty clean oh it must be they were unloading the parts can it's got a new coil so that must be the cylinder that's dead so that was step step four I think and then we need to take the air cleaner off air cleaner assembly here so one hook that up to grab our service day to make sure we're on track remove intake manifold cover check step four step five remove air cleaner assembly check so let's get that bad boy out of the way I assume it means the hole the whole shebang here which it may not mean it because I don't see any reason why we have to pick that whole thing out if I'm being honest Adventure we're just going to get to a point where we just start making it up how it comes out let's see when we get close so we're gonna hook it from the throttle body there we'll unhook it right here get a really long screwdriver why did I grab this oh first thing to have my mid time looks like a rubber donger down there on the front let's just hook onto the front of the timing cover yes sir so it has a little rubber hole there set that there we'll unplug the mass airflow because I don't know if the engine harness goes with the engine on the way out it may ecm's right here and then the air filter assembly on GM usually is just popped in yes sir look at that look at that so we'll take out the whole shebang just because that's easier than taking the lid off but we've got to undo that wire clip right there oh maybe you guys are out of frame hey it's okay push that out mass airflow and I'm gonna go set this stuff to the side so next on the list it tells us to remove the radiator hoses and the surge tank hose but prior to doing that we're going to take and pop the belt off because I don't want to get any coolant on it [Music] if it can come off looks like you might have to take the temperature off to do so we'll find out here and you sneak it back through there oh gosh stupid cars this should be a 15 probably loosen up the tensioner so we've got enough room all right I'm gonna go mark this the direction that it was on there so when we put it on the new used engine we're gonna go in the same direction there and we'll go after these hose clamps here let them slid back on the hoses without snapping our fingers hopefully okay what's the hose pick crack loose I'm just going to slowly bring it off the engine here make sure it's not right full good and we're just going to bring this because I believe the radiator and everything's going to stay in the car I think we're dropping uh the whole cradle engine training everything hooked to it I think I'm not positive I haven't read enough through all the details to figure that out yet so we'll just stick that hose kind of up to the side uh we've got the suits the tank hose here at the top of the engine grab that looks a little crusty anyways slide that back [Applause] let's put that a wiggle see the cracker loose there gonna say and then I think we'll just kind of stick back to the side leave it hooked to the radiator and then the upper radiator hose here back in on the engine so sure we can get down half of these little fellas yeah we can but we can't squeeze them let's see maybe baby fingertips up on there well I tell you what see if we can't push that clamp back up just a little bit there we go that's why I'm standing up straight because then I think I can come down we just don't do any players and then get a hold of it I believe yes sir get that clamp to come back should tight to that wiring all right so okay the clamp's back now now we're now we're in good shape clamps off but I don't know if I can get in here with a pick in that I heard anything yes sir well I get it under the hose I just can't do anything with it there we go see if I can get around the bottom side here baby whoa you guys are gonna go for a little ride yeah I better move it because you're gonna oh that one had a lot of water in dude now let me go grab another bucket okay here we go we should be able to hit one of these buckets somewhat okay I think we did lucky us [Music] and then this hose here I'm just going to bring around a sticker in the fan shroud for right now just keep it out of the way down back that way make sure you put your nut and stuff back in there if you loosen her up um okay let's go to step four I guess it's actually step 10 it says remove the disconnect the fuel line here um and then it tells us it unhooks some ac lines which we have to do and then it says prepare the transmission for removal that's it that's all it says what is that what does that mean what does that mean Chevy so we're gonna hook the gas line which we understand what that means so there's that uh at some point here we're gonna have to unhook the purge line that's got to be coming up here in the next few steps because that runs in the same harness so let's just do that while we're right here unhook the purge okay Purge lines are hooked put that gray lock back in [Music] come on Chevy [Music] pad though get that line down there we go lines out okay so there's our gas line and our Purge line and we'll probably end up zip tying these up out of the way let's see where it wants to unhook the ac lines at make an assumption well first assumption drawing it's not 15. we're going to assume we want to sits done hook them right off the compressor so it really kind of makes sense it just says unhook the AC compressor and condenser line and then it shows a picture of this fitting here which it doesn't really make a lot of sense to me so let's just unhook them right straight off the compressor because our ultimate job our goal here is to get the engine out so we're going to take this out now this still may have some residual pressure in it even though we evacuated it it's a good system and it's been inside warming up so you may hear a little poof and you pull this line loose here put on your safety splints just in case back nope no poof so that's unhooked let's get something to block them hoses remove the front fuse block remove the ECM uh disconnect the lever lock attaches the base of the ECM remove ground cables so there's a few more things that need to be done up here but I looked uh where it says to remove the uh to remove the front suspension of the front suspension frame and then it has you you know it tells you use chicken wire to hold the uh Radiator in and stuff like that so I'm kind of curious like how close are we to just pulling the whole radiator out I'm not sure the whole thing's still pretty pretty unclear it's about as clear as mud and anyway at this point we're just going to start making up our own rules we'll refer to the book a little bit um I want to pull this plastic cover off because I want to see the top of the radiator because if we're going to support it when we drop the powertrain out of it I want to see what we have to support it too or is it just silly you know should we just be pulling the whole radiator out anyways I don't believe that the engine can just come up and out like a conventional rear wheel drive because of the design of the engine mounts take the time to show you you're just going to have to trust me perhaps it can but sometimes we'll spend a lot of hours trying to save a little bit of time I'm doing it the right way if that makes sense to you well I'll be dipped foreign just so that Christmas tree faster but boy it's in there pretty snug there didn't even break that one we forgot one over here in the middle there's that so A bunch of those little fellas and now that should come up and out except for that one there I'll show you on the bottom here they're like door panel retainers you got one there there and there but now we can at least see what we're what we're meddling with you know is it worth trying to keep this whole mess in or do we just take a couple bolts out and that way when we drop the subframe from the sounds of it we don't have to meddle with that I pulled the two upper support brackets off here and it's pretty stiff there's a bunch of crap hooked to it so we're gonna skip it um it says to remove this fuse box here this guy can figure out how to get the lid off so you can see where all these bolts been touched like you know this ground here has been painted it's obviously had some Collision work done um now that that matters stating the obvious here gives me something to talk about we're gonna see about getting this unhooked and out of the way the only thing we're the only spot we've skipped so far is the preparing of the transmission yeah that tap's broke so that's why we didn't have to pry that tab back what do we have over here let's have some more stuff to unhook and we do a bunch of big Honky Tonk fuses um let's undo them 13s there I don't know if we got a socket out here we don't oh we do never mind we got old swivel Knack here foreign dude is that all we're gonna do yes ma'am I think so there's that one and that one we'll get those undone and probably this 10 that holds this little block on looks like uh which we have the 10 here oddly enough I don't know if we need to take we're taking just this half where did he go you mother lover oh it's right there let me get a magnet thank you learned about that the wrong way didn't you dude got it okay because I don't know we need to unhook all of the uh you know the bus fuses here if it just wants the fuse box removed which is kind of silly or are we disassembling uh the whole panel here which I assume we're taking this whole mess apart because it wants us to get the ECM out of there also sometimes you know this is where lacking experience kind of stinks because having never done one of these I don't 100 know what's necessary and what's not obviously the three wires on the ECM I'm not seeing I was going to say I'm not seeing the reason why this has to come undone but I think I do I think the wiring harness and or part of the wiring harness here nope that heads down to the front of the car that can't go I'm just trying to figure out what stays and what what goes it feels like it's just Christmas tree Den I I don't see why this is necessary at this point let me do a little more looking here well unfortunately I didn't learn anything [Music] so I'm guessing that we're gonna have to kind of keep mortar in here all right these are the release tabs aren't they I guess we'll pull the whole block it just tells you the fuse black housing remove it this is part of the housing I thought these uh just had the release tabs here on the side well try this again there's one so they just have little release tabs on each side you just flick them and they pull out and they click them back in you know the housing so they're not too terribly difficult to remove as long as you know where the little Clips are yeah you can get your dang fingers in them all right and we got one wiring harness retainer here on the back oh I thought it was gonna come out a little easier it's not shoved in all the way but the smokes so there's that there's that one Christmas tree so that's what that bracket looks like you don't have to worry about messing it up that's labeled black tan well black and tan I guess that's because black and tan that's a good beer Saranac makes it I think right that's because of the same size connector and they're probably interchangeable it lets you know who goes where and that is true they look quite identical so you wouldn't want to give her the old one two Switcheroo huh now we've got to remove the brain box as they call it PCM or the ECM or whatever you want to call it the computer the control module we're gonna hook those wires and since we don't do any damage we're just going to get her out of the way so I can pull that out because those pins are pretty fine and you don't want to go messing them up like I say this this whole thing may have been completely unnecessary the ECM harness I completely understand that I completely understand because I do believe the engine harness is going to stay on the car of course we're going to have you know the wire for the starter the alternator that one comes from the battery and then when it comes out goes down in this main harness so yeah I I don't know I'm still unclear yet as to what's necessary and what's not because the harness that the alternator and I assume the starter wire 70 100 that's a 200 amp um I assume I mean looking at this harness this thing goes down around through the radiator I mean that one's not coming out with the motor of course it wraps up through this crap we'll just keep we'll keep plucking away here folks let's see where it's step uh what number are we at 15. I remove the ECM disconnect uh on 16 disconnect the lever lock connector attached to the base of the ECM bracket so this is our ECM bracket and this is this is a lever lock connector does it say disconnect the connector or just disconnect the lever lock connector attached to the base of the ECM bracket so I don't know if that means just take the whole thing off the bracket or if it actually means to disconnect it I guess at this point I made it kind of silly just to remove it from the oh um I guess we'll leave it connected for right now uh let's see remove the ground cable not the step 17. at the right front inner core support and remove the cable okay and that goes down with that harness okay so that's this little guy right here so that's probably a 13. yep so we'll unhook it that nut back on there it's starting to kind of make sense here because if this it all goes down to the same harness and if this harness goes uh let's see this oh okay here we go uh 18 disconnect the engine harness retainers at the right engine compartment frame rail and reposition the harness the engine so that has to be this harness here which I know you guys probably can't see a lot of but my concern is is that sucker goes right this way it goes all the way to across the bottom of the core support and everything [Music] so how can that stay attached with the engine I'm gonna have to go underneath and see how far that goes perhaps it's just the harness for the power steering which it may be because it has electric power steering so I'm going to assume that it is I'm going to assume that service data is correct and we're going to go like this so that's our ECM harness we're going to unhook this bracket or unhook this clip right here from the ECM bracket possibly and get her out without breaking come on baby sometimes all this plastic crap is the is the toughest thing you know we just want to get these harness Clips out without breaking them but sometimes you got no choice well we'll leave that one about where it's at and then I do believe because this is part of that harness I'm gonna pull out some more of these Christmas tree Fasteners here on the ECM bracket that one came out nice and easy got this other one that runs down the side that one came out nice and easy we just got one that's playing Hardball and this is the one this is uh when we just disconnected here which I believe we need to disconnect that's part of this harness it's all part of that harness that right side harness they're talking about that runs it on the frame rail see if we can't get this last remaining Christmas tree Fastener out of here without breaking up to give it a little flexi back here yes you mother lover we got that mother loving thing okay so yeah that's part of this harness and before we get too far with these we'll just uh we'll bring them down around here that also has our ground cable with it okay that's a ground cable we just unhooked that's our three ECM connectors and then it says something here about yeah uh yeah disconnect the engine harness retainers at the right engine compartment frame rail position RSC engine so we've got to go under there unless that's what this is talking about and then uh remove the positive cable at the 100 amp pre-fused base and position that cable on the engine so that's 100 ampere okay this harness stays uh I think they might be a little confused here because if we're getting if we're going for these two wires that's also attached to that harness we're looking at the 200 amp and the 70 amp okay well let's just let's do what makes sense here good let's give it a little whack here all right so that that's a little less stressful on the connection there the air ratchet so there's that one and then I'm going to see this one here we've got me an eight millimeter dry stretch right and that should be the 70 Amper here that not I think stays attached with that wire it does so there's that and there's those two wires and then I'm going to say the big battery oh okay I see what they're saying they wanted us to unhook the 100 amp leave the whole mess with it I got you we'll do it the other way I guess that was the case we would have to assume that this one was already unhooked which I don't ever recall coming across that in the process so we'll stick that one there stick that back on because that's our main cable coming from the trunk here's our three wires so it must go down to the starter probably sneaks over to the alternator through the other one there yeah because that's a feed that's 200 this is the 70. that alternator has to be more than a 70 amp all meter on a car like this okay so that's that harness there and like I said the rest of that harness goes down but I think it goes to the electric power steering which is probably what that 70 amp might be hard to say so I think we're on the right path folks we're running out of steps here it says remove the vacuum hose off the brake booster which we did which Josh did he was standing over there I was reading he was unclipping so we didn't get to see that but that's okay just a rubber hose and a three-wire connector and then it says remove the ear holds connectors which they have a a quick connect on them but I don't want to say it's got a little metal clip almost like a good replacement I don't want to send it flying so we'll see if we can't get it off there without uh cause any damage humor spread them apart foreign probably could unhook the hose just at the hose clamps but it's not like it hit the floor it doesn't sound like well oh yeah we got a bucket antifreeze under there so that's good all right so that quick connects off it sounds like it hit something kind of solid we'll find it here in a minute and then we're going to get this quick connected off looks like you could pull them back right there until they lock but it didn't feel like that hose was loose let me try it wiggle it here because you push it back the wire clip and it sticks oh okay I should have just left that one alone because you just pull the you just unlatch it you guys probably can't see it with this bar in the way but and then you just click them back on okay all right well we'll have to find that clip or or else and then if these hoses are going out with the engine we're gonna have to unhook it from the surface tank didn't tell us to do but we're gonna so there's that look at the wiggle all right that should come off and they're gonna stay with the engine the best I can tell reading through service data it tells us like I mentioned to prepare the transmission for removal but one of the last steps is to remove the front suspension lowering you know the engine and training out as an assembly so preparing it does not mean to remove it I think it means to get the wiring harness off at the drive shaft shift cable if it has one you know probably our best bet would be unhook the torque converter bolts while the car is still stationary these are kind of snug back here we'll have to watch that when we're taking it off and then I did look at this harness down here this electrical harness goes right around the engine it's not attached to the frame rail so I think we're good in that aspect I think we're done up here the engineer to come out because it is the law the clip fell directly into the coolant so if you keep a bucket of coolant under your car you'll never lose a ball you always know right where it is foreign

Channel: South Main Auto LLC

Views: 174,548

Keywords: cadillac ats, cadillac, replacement interval cadillac ats, pcv hose replacement 2.0t cadillac ats, cadillac ats key battery replacement, spark plug replacement cadillac ats, 2018 cadillac ats 2.0 turbo battery replacement, 2013 cadillac ats, cadillac cts, engine, cadillac engine, cadillac ats how to replace, cadillac ats battery removal & replace, replacement, cadillac ats oil reminder, reset oil reminder cadillac ats, oil life reset cadillac ats

Id: mXJsxWzRf9k

Length: 37min 56sec (2276 seconds)

Published: Mon Mar 06 2023