Burnt Junkyard 6.4L Gen III HEMI Rises From The Ashes - Engine Power S8, E12

[Music] you're watching power nation from a forgotten burned up salvage yard engine to a power plant for classic mopar this gen 3 hemi rises from the ashes on today's engine power [Music] welcome to engine power you may have noticed that we have been doing quite a few fuel injected engines as of late yeah we did an amc 304 with port fuel injection we did two ls's one was naturally aspirated one was supercharged and we did that five liter coyote that was supercharged that was pretty sweet it was now we have a new project in the shop for all of you mopar lovers this is a gen 3 6.4 liter hemi and you may think we're going to go ahead and fuel inject this one as well but we are going old-school carburation on this one and for a good reason recently the detroit muscle crew went looking around steven's performance the world's largest mopar salvage yard searching for a new project vehicle tucked away among 60 acres of rusted metal was a 69 roadrunner from california in solid shape after loading it up and hauling it back to the shop it was time to get started this project will respect its mopar heritage while updating some components like the suspension and engine that's where we come in mark and daniel showed us this gen 3 hemi in questionable condition despite its appearance we jumped at the opportunity to put a bit of modern muscle into a piece of automotive history this engine actually came out of a burned up vehicle at a salvage yard and according to the tag it's from a 2016 ram 2500. now obviously it's in really rough condition so we're gonna have to go over it do a few checks and then maybe we'll get it running it's a big maybe [Music] wiring harness who needs that kind of stuff the first thing we do to any salvage yard engine is to pull out the spark plugs and check their conditions these have some rust on the threads and some carbon deposits but overall not bad another test we will do is a cranking compression check this can tell you if the piston rings are in good shape and if the valves are sealing up make sure you save these yeah we're going to need these for the next engine it's like 220. okay not bad no that's good let's do the rest and yep there's no clanking or anything so check the rest of them dang that's the best one yet 275 well it'll start to get better the cam because you know it's locked in its fully advanced position uh it's going to be high and it'll get started to get better because the more we turn this over the better it's going to get because i don't know what's underneath this had literally gloves shoved in the intake ports so there might be a little bit of stuff under the seat so the more we make it rotate and the more we actually work it loose we'll work it loose it's going to get better so well hey we'll have to recheck on this i bet those other two are oh i bet they're up now i bet you they're up now but that's promising so i feel better yeah next we'll drain what's left of the oil it's not a surprise that it contained a decent amount of water from sitting outside look at that oh yeah since we've decided to get this engine running we're gonna have to go ahead and use some of our new parts now but an important thing to note is that we did remove the egr cooler because it was hitting the backing plate on our dyno and so we had to install a block off plate on the exhaust but other than that we should be good to go you know we're kind of letting the cat out of the bag early on our choice of induction we are using holley's high ram lower intake manifold designed for gen 3 hemis even though it was made for fuel injection it also works great with carburation a top with a single square bore carburetor flange will get us going since this engine didn't come with any functional accessories we had to add an alternator and an idler pulley in order to get a belt on to spin the water pump finally we'll add a set of used stock coil packs in order to run this engine as it sits we'll be installing one of holly's terminator x kits now i know what you're saying that is an efi system and you are correct but that system will also run the ignition side of a carbureted engine extremely well and the benefit of that is if they ever want to go to fuel injection at a later time all i have to add are the injectors and the throttle bodies and they are good to go like every other terminator x we've used it is a simple plug-and-play operation that makes it easy to get your engine running smooth [Music] up next that's the sound we like to hear precision engine building takes some precision tools now these can seem pretty expensive at first but over time will show a great return on investment to improve both the quality and accuracy of your builds you can start with something small like a torque wrench that you'll use all the time there are several different types available including more affordable options like a dial or beam style torque wrench all the way up to a digital one which can do several different units and is extremely accurate when it comes to precision measurement there are also several different options depending on your budget dial calipers are very versatile for measuring both outside and inside diameters and come in several different lengths micrometers are a little bit more expensive but they are much more accurate at measuring outside diameters and go down to the ten thousandths of an inch dial indicators have several different uses in engine building and come in varying degrees of accuracy and are even offered in digital form plasti gauge is an inexpensive way to measure oil clearance and if used correctly can be quite accurate dowel bore gauges are more expensive but they are much more precise and can measure down to ten thousands of an inch there are also some specialty tools required when assembling an engine like piston ring squares piston ring expanders a set of feeler gauges and piston ring compressors if you're looking to expand your set of engine building tools you can find what you need at summit racing equipment we've gone ahead and changed the oil and filter on our engine but you saw it came out and the oil was pretty rough from sitting in the junkyard so long so the last thing we'll be doing is adding some seafoam motor treatment this works in either gas or diesel engines and in the fuel system it can help stabilize the fuel for long periods of time remove water and clean out any debris we'll be putting it in the oil where it'll clean off some of the parts and also break up and clean out any debris that may be sitting in the oiling system now seafoam treats up to 16 quarts of oil but since this is an extreme case we'll be using the whole can [Music] all right ready junkyard fabulous all right we'll see let's see if it starts [Music] it has oil pressure yeah oh it feels so much better now look at that i cannot believe that that's awesome now it had smoke coming out of it because there's some there's some stuff in the cylinder but yeah and that and that immediately cleans that immediately stopped it's running on all eight no leaks the no leaks part is what i can't believe because it's all crusty and burnt up you know i thought the valve covers would drip well but so far no leaks which is awesome yeah it looked like the intake took most of the fire everything underneath was like just dirty you know not not crusty or melted just dirty so man that's lucky but that's awesome let's go something easy 25 to 500 600 a second yeah that puts a minimal amount of load on it and again we don't really know anything about it so who knows but we can destroy it right here yeah you know maybe probably not i think it'll be okay we have a little temp in it i just kind of want to see if it'll do it that made an actual pull dang [Music] not bad it did it kind of boiled around a little bit but uh made 361 horse and 409 pound-feet it's up to temp let's run it a little bit more just to get the seafoam through it and then let's uh let's just kind of drain the oil out you know the sea foam is working because we put clean oil in and dirty oil came out good job sea foam before we wash the engine we'll get it ready by pre-soaking it with some foaming degreaser [Music] to clean our engine we're using a bauer 2300 psi brushless max performance electric pressure washer that we picked up from harbor freight pressure washers are invaluable around the home and shop for a variety of uses but since this is engine power you can guess what we're going to use it on it comes with four different nozzles to choose from and since it uses a brushless 13 amp electric motor it provides high performance longevity and is way quieter than a gasoline version to get into the tight spaces we'll finish off with the 25 degree nozzle with a 25 foot hose and a 35 foot 110 volt cord this bauer pressure washer makes your cleaning job that much easier you can get yours at your nearest harbor freight i got the steering gear back here yeah there you go all right to start this engine transformation we have to strip it down first don't break don't break no break it comes apart relatively easy with no big surprises yeah karate chop it the leftover oil in the pan looks a lot better than the first time you know what clean up pickup is yeah see how clean that screen is that's always a good sign it's nice probably clean it up and reuse it i think we have a new i don't think we need to go that extreme the rotating assembly looks good but we want to check the bearings to be sure if the rest look as good as this we are good to go [Music] because of rust in some of the threads the spark plugs were pretty gnarly coming out but luckily none of them broke i know that's hurtful that's hard to listen to we hope the cylinders look good but on a salvage yard engine you just never know the big reveal cross hatch in the cylinder oh yeah yeah that's uh that's really nice actually that's all the way around this engine was relatively low miles yeah up next the hemi gets a bigger cam some valve train upgrades and fresh induction then it's dyno time oh man [Music] oh juicy it doesn't taste bad though [Music] we've gone ahead and torn the engine all the way down to short block form to finish our inspection we know the cylinders look great so we checked the bearings and they look perfect the next thing we will do is take out our valve train this is the factory vvt setup there's a spring inside this that holds the cam in its most advanced position in this case the cam was at 102 degrees of intake center line and we know the cams lobe separation is 116 degrees so the cam was in 14 degrees advance when we were running it on the dyno now that's why the power was great down low but fell off up top we're gonna keep the cam phaser but we'll lock it out so it doesn't affect camshaft timing [Music] the camshaft will be upgraded so the stock bump stick can be removed if any engine we built recently could use a visual improvement it's this one after laying down primer the block receives three coats of chrysler hemi orange [Music] we picked up a set of used salvage yard valve covers and after thoroughly scuffing them and wiping them down with lacquer thinner they get an orange finish as well next we'll lock out the phaser comp's lockout kit comes with a special tool which relieves spring pressure allowing us to remove the fasteners on the side the lock simply drops into place and is wedged outward with a pipe plug this keeps the phaser from moving during operation [Music] the new camshaft is from comp it's a little bit bigger and will move the power band higher in the rpm range it has more lift and duration with 222 degrees of duration at 50 000 lift on the intake and 230 degrees on the exhaust lobe separation angle is 115 degrees once the timing set is bolted into place we'll install the tensioners and remove the pin to put the chain under pressure next we degree the cam and the intake center line comes in at 108 and a half degrees which is six and a half degrees advanced during installation of the oil pump we'll use three one and a half thousand shims to ensure proper alignment oh now we can move on to the valve train the lifters and trays have to go in before the heads can go on we're replacing the stock springs with a conical set from comp cams they have an increased spring rate of 485 pounds per inch to handle our more aggressive camshaft we also got this powerhouse specialty valve spring compressor from comp this simple tool makes changing the valve springs on gen 3 hemis a breeze we got a set of comedic mls head gaskets from summit racing equipment which will seal up the stock cylinder heads using arp bolts the 12 millimeter fasteners are torqued to a final torque value of 100 pound feet and the eight millimeter bolts are torqued to 28 pound-feet why do sometimes people fall asleep when they're drilling stuff i don't know because the drills are so boring [Music] we'll reuse the stock push rods with a little high pressure lube on them they can slide back in [Music] since they are under valve spring pressure the stock rocker shafts are gently and evenly tightened down before being torqued the springs are coated with valve train assembly spray to protect them during startup [Music] installed we got a new oem car style timing cover because the holley swap components are designed to use that one over a truck style since the engine will live in a vintage muscle car where space is at a premium we'll install an oil filter block off plate and run a remote oil filter on the dyno the holley swap pan kit comes with a center sump pickup and windage tray after putting some silicone on the parting lines of the block we'll install holly's cast aluminum pan made for b body mopars once we get this hemi hooked up we'll find out what it can do in the cell block up next [Music] that uh that is slick i can't believe they flow this good before we can get our engine running there are a few original parts that we're gonna have to replace we're gonna be changing out our water pump our alternator a tensioner our idler pulley and a fuse sensors and we chose the duralast brand for their higher quality and improved durability duralast has a full lineup of parts covering most vehicles on the road and they include brakes alternators and starters suspension components batteries and over 750 types of vehicle electronics parts like alternators and starters are offered new or remanufactured where durlass improves on the oe design to fix common failures and then triple test them to ensure that they meet or exceed original equipment performance if you want to look at all the parts duralast offers you can go to duralastparts.com with such wide coverage of electronic components it's easy to find the right duralast sensor for your project like frankie mentioned earlier we did let the cat out of the bag on what induction we were using but that was necessary to get the engine running to make sure the engine actually had oil pressure and was functional since then we have changed it up we've removed the single four barrel top and replaced it with one that accepts two 4150 style carburetors and topped it off with two qft black diamond 750s the nice thing about all of the holley high ram lower intake manifolds is that the tops are interchangeable so you can run a front-facing fuel injection carburetors or anything you want it's a simple change now this specific application called for two four barrels sticking out of the hood so it's old school tunnel ram goodness [Music] because the manifold is o-ring it slides on and seals up with no problems the holley alternator relocation bracket works great when you need more clearance to fit a modern power plant into an older car with duralast alternators all the wear components are replaced not just rebuilt parts are tested at component subassembly and finished stages [Music] holley's power steering adapter kit gives you that extra clearance you need with this popular swap we've already run this engine on a terminator x system so there's just a couple of simple connections to be made and with the belt put on we are ready to run since this engine will power detroit muscle's rotor on our project we wanted tommy here so he could hear it run are you ready yes sir firing this thing up now what's cool about this one is everything stock architecture i mean essentially the short block is a bone stock short yeah yeah bone stock heads we put springs on it but a cam and a manifold change so uh yeah but huge difference for just those just those companies this is a huge really different engine okay so here we go sounds good that uh that is slick i can't believe they flow this good okay look at that 540.7 at 6600 and a 494.4 at 52. and that ain't too bad at all that is mean mean me again that's a stock cylinder head yeah i mean like in this thing it's up a ton over what i mean even off the stock numbers this thing is way up yeah no it's not crazy the truck engine is rated at 410 and again we're turning accessories you take all the accessories off that and just have like an electric water pump on this thing it'd make probably 15 10 15 20 more i know you're running between five and five fifty so 540 is a pretty that's pretty close that's pretty close pretty close i love it so you guys are gonna have uh you're gonna have some fun with this one heck yeah for information on anything you've seen today you can go to powernationtv.com

Channel: POWERNATION

Views: 429,317

Keywords: Car, PowerNation, howto, how-to, diy, automotive, cars, trucks, automobile, do it yourself, automobiles, auto, powerblock, engine power, horsepower, 6.4L Gen III HEMI, hemi, old school, hot rod, engine build

Id: 0uBcjpRnv0A

Length: 21min 35sec (1295 seconds)

Published: Sun Jul 11 2021