BULLETPROOF 4L60E build in HOME GARAGE!!

and automatic transmissions it's not about how hard your clutch engages as much as it's about how quickly your clutch engages the longer it's taking you to engage the clutch in your automatic transmission the more heat you're generating and heat is really the ultimate killer of an automatic transmission what's up everybody welcome back to mohawk motors my name is jason so i'm going to have to do this in multiple videos to show you everything i want to show you today is going to be the first part of building this 4l64l65 hybrid for the ass blazer this video i'm going to focus on getting the power flow assembly installed and put together basically everything that transmits the power from the input shaft to the output shaft let me show you the modifications and changes i'm making to help this thing handle more power more torque and try to reduce the amount of heat the transmission is generating that's pretty much it let's get started on this thing and uh i'll show you all that i'm gonna do let's go all right well i finally got pretty much all of my pieces here i'm still waiting for i'm waiting for my new wire harness and solenoids but i think i have everything else i've got transmission master overhaul kit all the seals all the gaskets all the bushings are in this kit came with a 29 element sprag a few other little upgraded parts as well corvette servo uh so on and so forth an extra wide band a boost valve kit a valve body shifting kit some seals delrin check balls aluminum servo and accumulator pistons a trans go shift kit and i even treated myself to a couple new tools i'll put links to everything in the description for you uh so you'll be able to buy as much or as little of this as you like and uh the two things that i definitely definitely recommend and honestly i wouldn't do this without them your atsg 4l60e technical manual and then the atsg technical manual revisions now the revision manual is about twice as thick as the technical manual and that's all updates and improvements to make to the 4l60 4l65 and 4l70e but the original tech manual that i have here the blue one this has just the basic information how to stack up your your clutch packs uh which bushings go where what ports feed what what your power flow is what clutches are locked and unlocked for what gears all of that stuff that is not included in the update manual so if you're just doing a stock rebuild this is all you need if you're going to try to do a rebuild with some upgrades i really recommend get both because there's a lot of really good information in both of them so all where i'm at here is uh kind of the boring stuff at this point i need to get my clutches stacked up check my tolerances make sure everything is where it should be i need to finish getting the case bushings out and get the case nice and cleaned up the way i want it and then i can start putting it together so i'm gonna give you a little time lapse of the boring tedious not exciting stuff that is very important to do and then as i start making the upgrades the improvements the things that you'll need to change i'll explain that more in depth so let's make some space and get to work [Music] all right everybody so i'm at a point here where i'm gonna do the first deviation from the instructions that come that are in the manual right so i ordered my transmission overhaul kit and it comes with five new low reverse frictions and five new low reverse steels now uh if you're doing plain jane rebuild more than likely you would reuse or you would use these new steels that came with your rebuild kit now my transmission that i started with had the steels in it that have holes in them these holes are there to help the fluid leave from between the steel and the clutches and the frictions faster it basically is there to help the clutch engage faster by getting the transmission fluid out from between the friction surfaces more quickly so i am going to reuse the factory steels because of those holes now i am going to clean them off really well and then i'm going to go over the surfaces of them just give them a light little rub down with my green scotch brite pad here that'll freshen the surface up there's really no damage to them i mean i can still see the machining marks in most of them so i'm not all that worried about reusing them and i'm gonna i want the benefit of having those holes to help the fluid get out of the way faster so i'll save these new steels for later uh in this transmission i'm gonna reuse the stock steels just to get that little tiny probably won't even matter bit of faster clutch engagement out of this clutch pack so first thing i'm doing that isn't exactly by the book if you don't have these if you don't have the steels with the holes in them it's not that big a deal use your your solid steels but i have them so i might as well use them right [Music] i finally got this low reverse clutch to a place that i'm happy i wound up going essentially full race so i eliminated the wave plate the wave plate is really there to make your manual low and reverse engagement it softens them i like a really a good solid reverse engagement so i'm not too worried about losing the wave plate and essentially what that did is allow me to add an entire extra friction and an entire extra steel now to do this correctly you're going to be putting a steel in place of the wave plate you need to remove if you have your little notched ear on the second tab up on this side and then the very first tab on this side you need to grind those off because they will bottom out against the case instead of resting on the piston so this has to be now your special replacement for the wave plate and other than that the clutch goes in the same way steel friction steel friction steel friction etc until you have it fully stacked up so i'm happy with this low reverse clutch now i'm going to have a very solid positive engagement into reverse or manual low gear when i do i don't expect to be doing a lot of manual shifting with this but you never know right and it's not going to hurt anything it's just going to be a very to someone that didn't know they would think there's something wrong with the transmission but i'm going to be the person driving this and occasionally my wife and i'll explain to her like that is normal you don't need to worry nothing is wrong proceed as planned so i'll get this stacked up i'll get the support back in place where it goes and then we'll move on keep going with our reassembly until the next modification that i need to show you [Music] all right moving along just following the instructions in the manual uh the next thing i am upgrading uh is i am installing this uh this is called in the manual the reaction sun gear shell uh they're commonly referred to in the transmission industry as the beast sun gear shell these are extremely common weak link in the 4l60e probably one of the most common failure points in this transmission so if you're going to be in here at all even if you're just doing a stock rebuild i highly recommend upgrading this part they're only like 75 or 80 bucks um and you eliminate arguably the weakest link in the whole transmission [Music] there we go this is just my habit but it's always a good idea if you're putting together parts that spin in a series like a transmission or an engine it's a good idea after each new part you put on give it a spin and make sure it spins freely no binding you know that way before you put 15 other parts on you'll know that you have a problem and where you should start looking i replaced all my bushings in the input planetary set so i'm pretty sure those are the next parts that go in and then after that i'll be installing the output shaft so just keep moving along i'm literally just following the instructions out of the book guys if you can read and follow instructions you can do this [Music] all right everybody it's the next day i wound up uh we have some new neighbors and we wound up going over to hang out with them yesterday evening welcome them to the neighborhood but uh i'm picking up where i left off and the next thing i need to do here is get my new 29 element dual cage sprag installed onto the uh the sun gear here so i'm gonna put that together and then the instructions in the manual are saying put that in first before i do all of the uh input housing assembly so i'm just gonna keep following the instructions in the book this sprag is simple remove and replace nothing complicated or fancy about that and uh you know when i get to the next upgrade or change i'll bring you back again i almost forgot check out my new shirt got the new mohawk motors logo on the front and on the back uh i really love this new logo but i've got a bunch of different designs if you want to grab something i'll put a link to the store in the description so you know anything you buy it helps me with projects and bringing you guys more hopefully informative and entertaining content [Music] my [Music] all right i'm back uh the battery died it's i've just been removed take off the old stuff put on the new stuff nothing exciting but full disclosure i did make an error that i had to go back and correct and that was i did not read the instructions with my shift kit before i started going through the rebuild and the reason that was important is because part of the shift kit is to prep the transmission for operation over 5500 rpm these transmissions there's a couple check balls here in the input housing assembly that above 5500 rpm they won't function correctly so that needed to be replaced with an orifice instead of a check ball and i also needed to replace the forward clutch return springs and the what are the other ones in there the forward clutch return springs and the overrun clutch return springs needed to be replaced with a a stiffer spring so i took it all back apart went through got those replaced i got the reverse input drum new bushings installed new clutches installed uh that's all ready to go now so i am waiting on my z pack 3 4 clutches to get here so i can finish assembly of the input housing get that installed into the transmission install the uh reverse input housing and then and then that'll be pretty much it for the uh the power assembly the trip power transfer assembly in here i do have my new teflon ceiling rings installed this is the the sizing tool it basically just squeezes those teflon rings back down to the size that they're supposed to be on here so i'm kind of just stuck waiting on that z pack to get here so i can finish putting this together one eternity later alright team well my z pack came so i can finish getting my 3 4 clutch assembled here in the input housing and get this installed and then i have to take most of this stuff back out because i forgot to put the anti-clunk spring in so i have to get this put in before i finish putting the uh power stack back together uh the z pack just like everything else comes with instructions i'm just going to read follow the instructions and uh should give me a much better uh 3-4 clutch engagement [Music] all right everybody that's it uh the power flow assembly is complete i checked my end play minimum spec is 15 thousandths i'm at about 16 thousands which is where i want to be i want to be tight so uh i'm not going to set it all up again but to check your transmission end play you can either use the tool use your hand the tool is easier but i don't have it but set your dial indicator on the very tip of the input shaft and then you'll lift up and down on the input shaft and measure that end play it should be 15 to 40 thousandths mine's right at 16 000 like i said so that's right on the tight side right where i want it because i don't want to have a bunch of slop in this transmission considering the amount of power i'm going to try to put through it that's the last step we've got all new seals all new gaskets all new o-rings all new teflons uh all new clutches and some we reused some of the steels to get the faster drain back from the little holes we put our five pinion planetary gears from the 4l65 into this thing our z pack in the 3 4 clutch the we removed the wave plate from the low reverse clutch and added another friction and another steel we did the 29 element dual cage sprag we set all of our clutches to minimum spec by switching out clutches switching out steels so that tolerance is as tight as possible which will help the clutch engage as quickly as possible uh what else did we do here we put the beast sun gear shell in this transmission already had bonded pistons in it i just put new bonded pistons in it again i want to make sure there are no leaks here uh what else stronger return springs for the input housing clutches those come with the shift kit the instructions are pretty straightforward there it's gonna vary depending on which shift kit you're using and uh i think that's pretty much it we more or less blue printed the power flow assembly in this transmission to keep all the clearances all the tolerances as tight as possible so we will have as little slipping as possible and as fast an engagement as we can the big killer of a transmission is heat guys friction creates heat heat kills the transmission so the more slipping and friction you can reduce the longer your transmission is going to live next video we're going to get into the servo assembly and the valve body will get all those modifications made i mean that's really the brain of the transmission so we've got to do a lot of work in there and make it do what we want it to do and uh yeah we'll get on with it so thanks so much for watching i hope you enjoyed i hope this is uh helpful for you if you're trying to put together a 4l60 in your own garage i'm telling you these things are not made out of glass like people say they are they are good transmissions if you put them together right so we're going to prove it with this one we're gonna have a lot of fun with it and we're gonna put a good amount of power through it too thanks again for watching everybody we'll see you in the next video

Channel: Mohawk Motors

Views: 40,456

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Id: kqFBMtVzIDI

Length: 21min 52sec (1312 seconds)

Published: Wed Sep 15 2021