Building the GeneriBox - A Customizable Light Box

all right so let's make a light box I've got a new drawing open uh we start off by create sketch and go to the XY plane normally if I'm importing stuff I would create a bounding box saying 250 by 250 so I know the size of my print bed but I'm making something that I know is going to fit in there so I'm not going to do that right now I'm going to start out of habit going to put a point down and I'm going to hit M to bring up move and point to position select my point I want this in the middle 125 125 no real reason just I like it there I'm going to use this point quite a bit U for example the very first thing I'm going to draw is actually a center rectangle and what size do I want to make this thing well some one of the things I love about Fusion even though I have it set for metric which I'm going to use for the majority of this I could very easily just type in 8.5 in which is the size I want this to be and now I've got 8 and a half inches if I were to do this correctly and say I want 8.5 Ines here well I want this to be at a certain ratio I'm going to mimic the size of a monitor and do a 16x9 ratio well I don't know what the that is for 8 and2 in but you don't have to just type numbers into Fusion you can give it math so I'm going to tell it 8.5 Ines uh divided by 16 * 9 and now I have a 16x9 ratio box to work with uh couple things I want to do on here I want to fillet the edges and I want these to be I think I can go about one inch you can do this with the solids you can do this with your drawings uh works either way I like doing it in the drawing so that it has the um all of the the elements already there it makes it easier when you're doing offsets and things like that it's best to do it in the sketch versus on the solid at least for the rough shape uh when you're refining your solid that's that's a great time to do it then uh I know there's a key for repeat I don't remember what it is it'd be nice if I could remember that but there we go a nice little round box now this is 215 mm so I know out of my 250 I have a little bit of room to work with I'm going to do a few offsets on this uh my first one and this is where more math comes in nice and handy I like to set all of my line widths to 0 42 millim in bamboo studio um I haven't done that quite yet I need to CH actually no I already have that's just the sparse ill that's big so yeah um all of my line widths are 042 some of these are not the default some are so I'm going to work with that as my multiple here and I want these walls to be I don't know five or six thick let's go with five so I'm going to tell it 0 come on get back in the Box 0.42 * 5 and now I have a 2.10 millimet thick wall awesome I need to do that again and now that I know it's 2 uh 2.1 I can tell this to do another offset by hitting o and by the way it's was double clicking let me go back just click a line you get one pie piece if you have a continuous line and you double click you get the whole thing so o for offset 2.1 * 2 now I could obviously have just typed 4.2 but I'm trying to do this to show that point um so I have my two offsets and when we extrude this you'll see why I have those as they are uh got a little bit more geometry I can work with here which is good stuff I'm going to cheat just a little bit I have a handy little reference that I usually start my light boxes in and I'm going to come in here and I'm going to steal come on just my Keyhole I just select it contrl C to copy come back over to this guy hit paste shows up down here um control V for paste now I want to tell that okay real quick I'm going to draw a couple of sacrificial lines I want one going this way and I want one going this way okay I'm then going to create a point on that one in the middle that's what that little triangle means and one in the middle there okay we can delete those lines we don't need them they were just to orient my points I'm now going to select my Keyhole and hit M for move I'm scroll in here so I can actually click on it and I'm going to point too move that hole right there or that point to right there then I'm going to grab it again I'm going to hit M for move point to point that same point this point except now I'm going to click create a copy and I'm going to rotate I have to go all right selecting an axis yeah we're not going to rotate it now I'm going to select it and hit move again so I can rotate without an axis oh I have to select the right one and rotate it here I'm going to use these to cut holes in the body when it's finished and these are so the Box can hang in either a portrait or landscape orientation off of a thumbtack or a nail or screw or whatever um that's all I need in this drawing uh yeah yeah we're good so finish that from here we could start putting a few things together uh going to first of all well I want to put another feature in here and I guess I'll make it part of a different sketch so this one I'm just going to call box I I label and name everything because it helps um so we'll do the basic Extrusion on this first things first I'm going to grab all of it and extrude up I'm going to print the base of my light box at 28 mm height so for this I'm going to tell it I want come on move over here I want 0.28 and I want that to be I don't know eight layers thick little bit of infill in the middle I think eight will work how thick is that I'm tired math is hard well if you want to see what that looks like you know see what the actual distance is you can click inspect click on the top flip it over to look at the bottom click on the Bott bottom and it tells you that's hard to see but 2.24 mm I'm okay with that I like that height that works for me so we'll close out the inspect tool now when you extrude for the first time off of a sketch it turns your sketch off so you have to turn it back on for this box I'm going to do a few things I have a fairly standard pattern that I work with I'm going to kind of work in reverse and and this might be a little bit confusing but I'll explain why I'm going to hit e for extrude again and I'm going to tell it offset and I'm going to offset up to 38 mm and I'm going to come down by three so what this is doing is giving me about 2 in up 40 mm would be just right above here it's giving me this little lip that I'm going to work with um okie dokie I'm going to grab that same part again that that same uh plane of the sketch or sketch face I think it's called I'm going to extrude that again and I know what height that was at because I'm doing the math in my head but let's say I don't know where it is because it ended up somewhere funny I can click on start object and I can click on that part right there it's going to start from there and now I can tell that I want it to come down another 10 mm this is going to try and join them together the default operation when you have touching bodies is to join I'm going to tell to create a new body instead because I want this to be a separate piece this is going to be a decorative uh piece oky doie and I'm going to do it one more time in this case I hit e for extrude and my extent type is going to be two object and I'm just going to bring it up to Here Now the default operation because it's cutting through other material is to go into a cut but I don't want that I want it to join however I only want it to join the base I don't want it to join this piece as well so I'm going to turn that piece off if it's not visible it won't join to it click okay so now I have my base piece which includes the actual flat piece and the first set of walls I've got my decorative lip or my flip and then I've got my decorative band so body one I'm just going to call that base black body two is going to be Bas lip black and then body three is bass accent I'm going to create a group call it base drag those parts in there this is to make life easier when you have more complicated designs I can turn that group on and off it will now now I already have a lot of material preferences set up you can Define your own materials if you'd like um in my case I'm going to drag my glow-in-the-dark to this little band right here I brought up appearances by tapping a by the way that's basically what that's going to look like that's what I want um this is just the the standard formula I use on all of my boxes I love the way it looks but I want to do some fun stuff with this one I want to change the way this this formula works so let me turn my base off and we'll go back into this sketch I want to put a little Al Cove down on this corner where I can hide uh the power cable that will plug into this and we can do that I want that to come from this outer wall right [Music] here I want that to give me about an inch worth of clearance yeah so I took a point from that middle told it one inch in at a 45 Dee angle so it put that point right where it needs to be and now I'm going to I'm going to have to make two lines here I can just make one and do the same thing I'm going to drag a line all the way down to the bottom here and you see it it's snapping with that little green uh X that shows up and I'm watching my angle for it to kind of stick at 45 because I want this to be a 45° angle so I'm going to go ahead and click to put that one down and I'm going to okay out of that I'm going to grab the original line it was sacrificial get rid of it and now I'm going to use my extend tool and I'm going to extend this line all the way across so now it is crossing between all of these different lines so far this has changed nothing our base looks exactly the way it did before if I finish sketch and look nothing has changed here it's still the same old base but I'm going to use that line to do a couple of things uh so let me go back into the sketch first I'm going to do I'm going to do an offset on this and I need this to be fairly thin so I'm going to do 42 by3 I don't need it thick 1 and a half millim is about where I want that to be hit enter and I need to come in here and I'm going to bring up my trim Tool uh which you can also just hit t on your keyboard knock those little ins off cuz I don't need them that's just clutter on the board okay so with that there what I'm going to do and I have to flip over to the underside of this to see it so let me turn off the grid so we don't have that in the way I'm going to actually click on bottom so we can make this easier to see I'm going to highlight these components here all those little sketch faces and we're going to EXP again and I want this from the outside of the box to be 10 mm tall or whatever would be evenly divisible by 0. 28 so real quick because math is hard 10 divided 0.28 about 35 lines 38 36 lines let's use 36 lines so I'm going to extrude this 0.28 ah wait a second our first layer is going to be 0.2 so let's consider that 0.28 time 35 lines plus2 that's where I want that to be and is that actually exactly 10 hang on I I got distracted and clicked one I shouldn't have it actually came out to exactly 10 that's hilarious okay so yeah 10 millimeters I could have just typed 10 millimeters that would have worked perfectly um however I didn't want to cut that that was a mistake I wanted to make that a new wall and merge it together uh what I did here when I when I incorrectly did that I said let me change it I came down to my timeline I right clicked on that extrude option and told it edit feature this is one of the things I love about Fusion you can come in and change things like I meant to make this a join instead I can just change that if I accidentally didn't select all the things I needed like let's say I had forgotten to actually choose the wall you can come in and add and remove objects to it I'm just holding shift to do that so it makes it real easy to come in and and make Corrections and you can do this at any point in your timeline if you forgot a step five steps ago you can come back in and change that U so now that I know that's 10 millim which is actually really cool I need to do a few more things I'm going to take these three faces here and I'm going to extrude again 10 mm and I'm going to let it cut this time because I want it to cut I want to take that corner away cut it out then I'm going to select those same three faces again and I'm going to extrude again and this time I'm going to say I want to start on my object which is this right here and I want that to come up doesn't have to be super thick but I don't know five five layer height sounds about right so 0.28 Time 5 and I'm going to tell it to join oh I forgot something so here's a good example I didn't select everything I wanted to I'm going to go back to edit feature and I'm going to add in these parts that I forgot about so now I have that nice seam right here that's what I wanted earlier um I can't leave well enough alone I have to be fancy about things I'm going to add in a chamfer to this uh chamfers and fets are just little ways of kind of cutting Corners um I'm going to select all of the elements that I want to chamfer including this side and bring up my chamfer and it looks like it still has everything selected no it does not okay well bring up chamfer and then you can just click on the part you want select all of those let's make sure I get this one as well okay so all of the the faces where your fingers might go is my point I want to try and cut those down a little bit see what one looks like just 1 millimeter not bad because it has room to do this it's going to be 1 mm x 1 mm this will be a 45° angle if I come in here and look directly at it you see this line right here is that uh The Edge from this face right here and that is a 45 degre angle a 45 Dee angle will Point uh will print very nicely If This Were any lower than that like it was a 30° angle it would probably not print so well because that's a pretty steep overhang you could print it with a much higher angle but there's no real reason to I'm just trying to take the sharp edge off of this I could do a filet instead of a chamfer which is a rounded Corner U they don't print as nicely because the first layer or two of a fillet is going to be a very steep overhang and they never print well I prefer chamfers where I where I can use them so I've got basically this box is done I need to come in and cut the face or these keyholes out so I'll go underneath it select my keyholes extrude and just drag the arrow up doesn't really matter because it's going to be a cut which is what I want now I've got my cut done that's pretty much that at this point now I'm going to do something else um a little trick that I've used on a lot of these boxes and I think works very well I'm going to select this face right here this object face and I'm going to extrude and I'm going to do it28 * 2 I'm going to take two layers off the top of this because I'm then going to come back and add them right back in but as a separate body so 28 * 2 this time though as a new body why would I do that because I've I've literally oh I told it to join silly me let me fix that now I to do as a new body where did it go oh there it is I I miss I'm sorry so this is going to be base reflector and I'm going to bring my appearances back up to try and represent what this would actually look like I'm just going to drag my white over to it um I did something wrong with that extrude because that is way bigger than that should be let's go see what I did wrong 2 oh minus 2 supposed to be times two new body or point2 8 * 2 there we go that's what I wanted it to look like the idea here is I have this TW layer thick object that will be in my list so when I get this into bamboo Studio I can specifically tell this to use my silver pla to create a reflective layer inside the box or white or whatever if you try to do this with the painting tool you have no control over how deep it goes and it doesn't need to be a lot it's the inside of the Box you're not going to see it I just want it to not be black basically so those two little layers all we need it's fine I need to put in here on this face we need to put some holes because we need to get power into this thing I could go back and look at my source here to figure out well what do I want to put in here I've got my 7.8 mm hole I've got my 10.2 mm hole I've got the one for which I think I'm going to use on this one I've got this guy which is is going to be my choice uh let me turn off the rest of them so I can just select what I need this is going to be the one I'm using because I want to use this one this hole and its accompanying body are specifically for an SP 1110e a um RGB controller and I I made this up a while back just um measuring one after I tore the shell off of it so what I'm going to do is come back to this one I'm going to rightclick and create sketch and I now have a sketch plane against that line which this is going to be important because I'm going to paste in oh no that came in funny oh no that's not what I want well maybe I can salvage this rotate 90 as long as I'm still lined up this way I am fantastic okay uh and we will accept the move copy for that I need to put a a point somewhere on this face where this hole will line up um I want to try and Center that against this face so what I'm going to do I'm going to zoom in on this and grab a line tool let me bring it up there we go and I'm going to look for that triangle somewhere in the middle there's my middle and if I measure up on this it's 9 mm taller remember we lost 1 millim to our Cher U I think that's okay so I know my middle is at five so I'm just going to put my line there create point right on top of it and delete the line let's come down here grab this thing move point to point grab this guy and put him there uhoh that's not going to work that doesn't fit poo because I need that to be taller uh the way I drew this this is where the circuit board is and this is where its little mated hole goes so we need to add a little bit more space on this okay well since I need to make a change to this what I can do I'm going to finish my sketch and get out of that and come back to my box let me name this one real quick before I forget it's not ESP it's the uh what was it called sp110e sp110e label it just so I know what it is later go back to my box or actually I don't even need to go back to my box I need to find the Extrusion I did when I defined how tall this wall was it was like the third or fourth one I think no fourth fifth fifth one we're going to edit that feature I want that to be 15 tall not 10 and then I need to find that one where I actually drew the wall itself in or I'm sorry one where I where's the one where I drew the wall in was that one is it that one there we go so well we made it 15 so I'm just going to type 15 if it divides evenly or not I don't really care the slicer will figure it out it can ensure vertical height it'll make it work what I do care about the the strips that you put in these things are typically 1 cm tall so I'm going to inspect and I'm going to look at the height from this line to this line oh that got a little bit close um as I'm pretty sure my strips are taller than that maybe 15 is Too Tall maybe I have to go a little bit smaller we will see the alternative of course I could always just put a plug on here and then put the board somewhere further in so I need to come up with about 1.4 millimeters I think I can do that I think I can do that so let's go back and see if we can I'm going to edit this one and select all of its elements want that let me turn the other sketch and the base off for now I just want these components there we go and I'm going to turn this back to visible and we're going to move I don't know if this will work let's find out can I move that point to there to that line will that work doesn't seem like it damn okay uh well we can just translate instead so translate it up of course it's really hard to gauge where that actually is well that's not working so we can use move to position we remember my Z on this we had done 0.28 by 8 I think it was so see if that looks like it lines up looks like it lines up to me I think we're good on that although now I'm questioning if I was supposed to place that on the inside or the outside I think it had to go on the inside hold please okay I went back and double checked I looked at another drawing where I'd last used this I haven't used it in a while and I remember what I did um it's actually this is supposed to represent a wall right here that's what this little nugget is right here so I need to move it forward a little bit um let's go ahead and select all that again and move we'll just translate it um bring that forward right about there should be good this just butts right up against it and that hole opens up up for the um the thing to get through and yeah that's close enough I'm fine with that okie dokie so the the purpose of this what this thing does for me I am going to take these two little pegs right here and extrude them up I don't know four are you going down orientation must be wrong on this I want those to come up by about for um I actually don't want those to be a part of the silver I'm fine with those being black so we'll make those new bodies and add those to it as well as that just catches it those hold it that should be okay yeah I'm fine with that and again to be fancy just to make it easier actually put these things in I'm going to select these two faces and this time I'm going to do a filet uh five 75 yeah 75 just round those off so when those print it just won't be a flat Edge it'll make it easier to slot this thing on top of um actually I'm going to change what I was doing there I am going to turn off the reflector layer and I'm going to go go back to my extrude and I'm going to put an offset on here just to bring that down so it's actually touching this base layer and bring it back up just a tiny bit more that is going the wrong way Oops why is that going the wrong way that should go that way did it de it wants to go the correct direction now okay whatever fusion um although I wanted those to join not new body and they're not joining okay you know what we'll just delete that all together it's going to warn me because the fle doesn't work so I removed it let's do that all over again but this time without the reflective layer so I'm going to grab these four yep these four parts I'm going to start at object and go up four for whatever reason it's still inverted probably when I flipped it over or is it just being silly there we go so now I've got a little Peg to put these on I'm going to put some tape underneath it anyways this is just to help it go back in we'll do those fillets 75 was what we used before that's good and let's grab that hole and cut it out so now I have a spot that when I go to paint or when I go to print this it's just going to skip uh not putting down the silver right there so this will be my black is pla plus my silver is regular pla not that it matters for such a tiny part but that will help uh make it a tiny bit stronger having pla on pla or pla Plus on pla plus uh I'll be able to take my little um control module stick it in here and again the the whole reason why I'm doing this that little hole I can now put a power plug in that and if I look at it if I inspect from the top of that hole to this line right here about 3 and2 mm that should be more than enough for the the jacket around any kind of socket uh so yeah 15 mm was definitely a much better choice here uh that should work fine I'm okay with that and it's thin too which is necessary because I I have other things I would put in here like I have a little USBC breakout that I would put in um that needs to have a very thin depth the the uh USBC female end that's attached to the circuit board only sticks out by a little bit so this wall being thinner is fine um it's going to have plenty of strength and support from the rest of this I don't have any artwork to put on the face which we need to make next so I'm going to turn my base off turn my base or my um box sketch back on and at this point I'm going [Music] to I'm debating if I want to create a new sketch for the face or not um you generally don't have to but I think it might make it easier because then you don't have extra elements cluttering it up so I'm going to just select the parts I want which are these three walls uh when going to hit contrl c new sketch paste oh I wanted to copy over the um Center Point as well so contrl c contrl v oky dokie now if I turn off box now I just have this to work on for my face not face three just face um reason why I'm doing this is so that if you're going to bring in Design Elements uh whatever the face of your light is supposed to be you have artwork you want to put in whatever this would be where you import it and line it up and make it fit um however I'm going to do at least one or two things on here we'll just do something for an example I'm going to do another offset this one being a negative 2.4 because we were doing or 2 point I'm sorry 2.1 no no I want this one bigger I want this one to be 2.4 um this one's going to be decorative so we're getting into things that are no longer strictly functional uh um we put together our body and we need to add a face to it so remember we came up to 38 mm here well my box is going to be 40 mm tall I just like that height that's what I work with and I'm leaving a 2 mm space for the face of it so turn my base back off I'm going to grab just this outside ring and I'm going to extrude I'm going to give it an offset of 40 and - 2 I don't know why I like to work down from the top so we'll create that one turn my face sketch back on I grab the next one the next bring in this one same thing offset of 40 but minus five this time this will give me a little lip that can attach to the uh to the base and I'm going to let that join because if you if you don't join these if you leave these as separate objects when you go to slice it you'll get additional outer walls between them because it will see the two objects independently and treat them as two different objects with their own outer walls connecting to each other by joining them if they have any kind of uh hollow space inside of them where it would normally be infill it will actually create infill uh that's actually one of the things you commonly get when you repair a model it fixes things like that where you have entirely encased outer walls touching entirely encased outer walls it sees that as a mesh aor sometimes um I'm going to grab the next one in and this is where we start doing decorative silly stuff I'm going to do this as 40 and this timeus 6 this will be a new body okay and we'll grab the next one in same exact thing 40 minus 6 as new body the face on here I generally throw my white I like to have a little white ring that kind of wraps around the face so if I turn off if I turn off my sketch just have this little box like this the little face for it again let's keep things fancy I'm going to bring up my chamfer tool take the entire outside perimeter knock 1 mm off of it no reason why not it prints clean it takes a sharp edge off of it and gives it just a little bit something more to make it special and different um cool so we've got a nice looking little box here I turn the base back on that's about what it looks like okay but I don't want this face to fall off I don't want it to have to require screws or glue or anything to be held on for something with such a basic shape just a rectangle like this it's not going to have very much friction holding it together if you have something with crazy lines and edges and stuff like that you'll get a good friction fit out of it but these bamboo printers are very dimensionally accurate when they print and you're going to you're going to have some fun with this uh it it will fall off and I don't want to put glue on that because what if the light strips with their super cheap adhesive strips don't stay in place well now I have to tear it apart to get into it to try and fix the light strip and if I glued it in I'm going to ruin the box so we're going to put some little tabs on this uh first a little bit of organization let's create a new group call it face I was not where I need to be come on face let's identify our parts we've got face lip black we got face accent and we've got just face uh art we call it face art there's nothing there but whatever uh Face Art this piece right here here would usually be where you put all of your design stuff uh whatever image text logo whatever thing you want to put on there um not doing that here because time constraints when I print this I'll put something on it I don't know what yet um I am going to start by turning off my base and I need two more sketches I need to come into one side and I'm going to choose the underside of this lip and creates capture I'm going to come back over so I can see it and I'm going to cheat again I'm going to find my Center Point with a line right about there and if I measure this it's going to be three because that's how much I gave it so what I'm going to do is come down and draw myself a 2 mm line well actually I'm going to draw a 1 millimeter line because that's where my Center is and I'm doing a center rectangle so there's my little line create Point create Point okay and I'm going to delete the line because it's just clutter I'm now going to tell it give me a center rectangle that is 2 mm tall by 20 wide okay and that's all I need in this sketch so finish that what I'm going to do with this I'm going to take it and extrude out 1 mm except I didn't mean to do that because now I can't see my sketch I can't get to it because I have something in the way so we undo that and I'm going to do the opposite end first tell it from object this side the opposite side and negative one to bring out a little Peg there and now we can come back over to the original side and we can extend it one from here call that nub and Y and let's go do another an x uh I'm going to come over to the top of the thing which I guess this would be why doesn't matter they just need to be labeled differently same exact procedure I'm going to find the middle and draw a which you may be thinking why are you drawing the line why don't you just put a point down the point maybe it'll snap yeah as soon as I find the center it's going to try and use the center instead of snapping to the grid so I won't be able to get it exactly where I want it if I'm doing something like over here or over here where it's not that Middle Point yeah it's it's going to try and give me more control I don't know why whatever to get it where I want it it's easier to just draw the line and I could put the point down and then move it I guess but whatever it's easy enough just to draw a line rectangle Center rectangle 2 by 20 finish sketch that's n x not make the same mistake we did before I'm going to hit e for extrude I'm going to come over to the other side here from object and because we're going backwards minus one okay come back over to our front side turn the sketch back on so we can see it extrude one so I've got these little pegs well they're not going to work great for for what we want to do so let's add some geometry to it chamfer tool and I'm going to click the face of the thing not the edges and I'm going to go around and get all four of these faces all four and we'll bring them in by one because they're 1 mm thick if I tell the chamfer by one we have now created a nice little pyramid looking shape I I don't know what you want to call that but that will feed 9 nice and easy when it goes into the base of it um I'm going to do one more step on that just to ensure it feeds nice and easy now I'm going to bring up my filet tool and I'm going to select the front uh little edge of these just to make sure it feeds nice and easy and I'm going to take like 05 off of that not very much that's just enough so we have a little rounded Edge on it it still sticks out by a pretty good bit plenty enough to actually hold on if I force my there we go still pokes out a pretty good bit um how tall is that you're not going to measure from the Apex though you're going to measure from yeah the bottom but yeah um it sticks out far enough so that completes the lid the face of the thing we've got the little retention pegs on it we would have art here uh uh so that's fun uh let's go ahead and turn the face off and turn the base back on because now we need to put the receiving ends into this turn my two little nubbin sketches back on exact same procedure in Reverse I'm going to extend by one and that's going to be a cut operation because this is where it's going to mate into okay extend or extrude again from object this object minus one we get that mated hole this one take one out this one rotate around to object that object minus one uh we need to refine the shape of this because those are just simply rectangles cut out that would not do great for holding it in it would have a rattle it would kind of move around up and down so I need to be able to click on a line on the inside of there which is really hard to do because when I go to an angle where I can see it I've got my body in the way so I can just turn off everything that I don't need so I can see specifically what I do need it's part of why I label these things so I'm going to take that corner [Music] and that [Music] corner and that corner and that corner and we're going to do another chamfer one because that's 2 mm tall and that will create what I think is a really nice shape to receive the actual pegs themselves so oky dokie if I turn all my design Parts back on and take a look at it I now have a decently sized box that has a little recessed Al Cove for a power cable to go in which if I look at it this way that power cord comes in hopefully this is enough room for it to have enough Bend radius to come out so it can kind of hang down or if I wanted to stand this upright on a desktop it could tuck out of the way without poking out this side or poking out this side or coming directly out the back or whatever I can hang it in either orientation that cable will adjust either way whatever face I print for this can be rotated around so it doesn't have to be printed the correct way I suppose um I'm pretty happy with that so what I'm going to do I'm going to turn the face off so I can only see my base elements and I'm going to file well first of all I need to save this thing because I haven't saved it yet this is Genera box Genera box there we go that's what I want to call it you have to save it before you can export certain formats um so I'm going to export gener box v0 and I want to call this this is going to be a step file and we'll see the differences between these things um I had been playing with this earlier and I swear I had faster printing with a step than I did with a 3mf which was crazy but whatever so yeah step box export uh um and just while I'm at it I'm going to export my 3 MF as well and I also screwed up I meant to call this base and I didn't do that if I come back over here V1 base yeah I meant to give it that name sorry and we'll turn the base off we'll turn the face back on um we need to put something on this to make it not so boring uh let's turn my face art back on and we will edit sketch and let's throw some text on it I guess just something real quick text and I'll just grab the corners so I can Center it uh old handle that I or a domain name that I own and do I have armor piercing in here I don't have my font who is it the bottom maybe no I was hoping I had a certain font in here and I don't so let's do a different one we'll use Carlson antique anyone who's a fan of 40K knows what I'm doing right or might be familiar with what I'm doing right now we'll Center that and we'll make it big not that big uh how about that big nope still too big uh that big still too big that big there we go perfect I like it um so now I've got some something to work with text is a funny thing in Fusion there's an option where you can tell it to explode text which turns it into actual geometry um I'm not doing that I'm just going to leave it like it is I'm going to export that and cut a hole then I'm going to export it or I'm sorry export it I'm going to extrude it and I'm going to offset 40 minus 6 as new body new body please um so now I have all these body body body body um these are my letters each one has its own individual part you see as I scroll through them it selects them uh I'm going to select all of them and just click on one and say letters white it renames all of them for me which is handy I can drag them up here to my face hit a select them and drag my white over and boom I've got I've got a fth it cool um so let's go ahead and Export this now file export and this is J box one face method um yeah that work so ambo Studio I now have a step file and I've got 3mf files I like 3mf files for a lot of reasons they are generic formats you can open them in a number of different things uh there are international standards used for these where it defines all the way these things work uh which is great bamboo Studio Orca also save their project files as 3mf but they put custom attributes in them so a generic 3mf is not the same as a bamboo 3mf um if I come in here and let me just throw this in here I'm not going to do anything special with it yet contains objects yes I want to do this um I'm just going to save as real quick and we'll call this just Genera box V1 I'm going to take the base out of it just so it has a different file name show you what I'm talking about I've got my Genera box base geometry file from Fusion that works if I try and open this one can't do that H it's because it's now a custom bamboo file notice also the file size went down tremendously it's compressed uh I am not entirely positive this is something I need to do a little bit more digging on this one was was that my step or my 3mf that was my 3mf if I drag my step file in here you might be able to tell the difference like on this curve see how it's kind of uh Prismatic how it's broken up come over to my step it's a lot finer there's a difference in how these files look how a 3mf which is basically just stl's inside of a zip file that's really all the 3mf is it's a fancy zip file 3mf by default contains STL meshes which are not always as high polygon count as per se a step file now pros and cons of this all the names I put in to Fusion for my bass if I come back over here and look I had bass black lip accent reflector The 3mf Preserves that that's pretty cool I don't get that with the step file now the step file however I can break into Parts not objects but Parts you want to use Parts because they it maintains the geometry like the Z distance and everything if I go back to that break into it objects they all just fall fall to the floor which is no good so I can break it into Parts but I don't have names or anything now there's only four objects in this part or four parts in this object so that's fine uh but if I had something with like a 100 pieces in it that would really suck uh I can come in here and just by clicking on it I can find here's where my accent piece is I want that to be my glow-in-the-dark and then four is going to be my Sil piece so I've got my 3mf here it's got all the little bits and pieces in it little bits and pieces in it that I want it to have um looks pretty okay um I come back over to this one that was my 3mf import and we're going to do the experiment while we're here let me change all this to Black and then I can very easily know that my accent needs to be that and my reflector needs to be that so these are now identical in every way uh same exact file same exact settings nothing has been changed uh the process I'm using on this I've got a specific one I've set up for bases um this is going to be all Global attributes so nothing is unique between the two um I do want to do one more thing I want to rotate these 45° because walls always print better when they are not planer to your XY AIS uh less vertical fine artifacts when you do this so yeah is that centered let me Center it and Center it oh well didn't mean to do that uh Center please back to where you were okay so I got my 3mf over here I've got my step file over here they are in the same orientation they are everything's the same so let me slice all of these real quick and here's what I'm curious about this one the 3mf says it'll take 2 hours 31 minutes the step file takes 2 hours and 13 minutes it's the exact same file exported at the exact same time with the exact same settings and it's 20 minutes faster to print the the step file than it is to print the 3mf I think I think if I come in and look at the line view what we're going to see I've got outer wall outer or outer wall inner wall outer wall inner wall and two inner walls now if I go back over to the 3mf and look at it I bet you we have some Gap infill or something nope it's the same I don't know why it's faster I don't know why that's confusing something's up it's got to be something with the way it processes the geometry and figures out what to draw I can't explain that except I can explain it looking at the times in here you'll actually see that the less precise geometry of the 3mf is causing a lot more travel time it's having to move around to try and print walls because they're not perfectly straight in those curves now this will be different from model to model but generically speaking I think it's safe to say that step files will simply print better and faster um so yeah the step file prints what is that um 2 hours it's 150 minutes total 20 of 150 that's a pretty significant savings that's what uh 18 177% faster just by using a different file I like it um so yeah I don't want to print the 3mf so I'm going to go back to prepare and I'm going to take my 3mf file and we're we're just going to delete you because I don't want you no more you're slow goodbye we're going to keep the step file uh couple things to look at on this if I go into preview and scroll down um if I did all of my presets right this should look correct uh first layer second third now we should get into infill it should be two or three layers of infill it's not quite the way I want that to look I want that to be more perpendicular my infill lines going this way directly across the print I want this bridging layer which is my very first top surface layer to be as perpendicular to that as possible um let's see [Music] here I can change my info orientation but I really don't want to I don't think Bridge direction affects the top surface and I don't think I have the ability to change the top surface layer I really wish this top surface was going to print across this way usually it chooses the shortest distance to do that I don't know why it decided to do this this way it's pretty close to perpendicular though that's like 15 degrees off 10 degrees off uh you know what that'll be okay that'll be okay I'm not going to worry too much but it'll be a little bit rough it's not going to print super smooth but it doesn't need to be if I wanted the surface to be smooth I would add another layer to it I would make it perfectly perpendicular but that's going to be okay that should be a layer of black and it is then I get my first silver my second silver and it didn't draw those where I wanted them but that's okay that's all right these these really are just kind of basic guides so I'm not too worried about these not connecting all the way through those go up we get our hole get our overhang okay so we need to paint on a little bit of support real quick and we'll be done with this part I'm going to get to Center please and get to the view I want and we're going to paint on with the fill bucket overhangs only 30° overhang and I'm going to click here and click here the two parts I care about and slice and if I change my view to come back over this way because I've got my tree set up a little bit funky already change to line view excellent it did exactly what I wanted if I come down to that first interface layer I've got a nice solid interface it skips just a tiny bit and then if I look at this [Music] from where is it sorry I always forget which key shows me the top of the print one control one by the way control one brings it up so I'm looking straight down on it a little bit here a little bit here that may not be the best because that's going to be unsupported but that's a very short bridge between the supports after that layer goes down it'll start printing more normally yeah that'll be fine I'm not worried about that that will print perfectly fine and normal I'm happy with that let me make a new window here and this is one thing I I wish they would change maybe they change it in 1.8 or 1.9 or who knows what they they'll do this eventually um you can't have different global settings per plate I me they're global settings that makes sense but I wish there were more things that are Global options that were either part of the object options or could be plate specific that that would be nice until then I have a separate one for for face this one is going to print at 0.2 it's going to use a smaller first layer uh it's using Arachne with a rather aggressive uh transition angle uh only one wall top and bottom and there's a whole bunch of different things in here that that we use for this uh because I care about the the face the bottom is what I'm going to look at I have changed the top and bottom surface patterns so monotonic line or sorry monotonic line has become the bottom pattern and monotonic has become the top surface uh let you get a little bit more in there um yeah so let's go grab the face or fth it same question multiple objects yes that's fine um this one don't really have to rotate it it'll print fine either way the walls are very small on this I'm not that worried about it uh what I do need to do however is lay it on its face flip it upside down and I need to uh let's grab art lip those two need to be black and we'll move that out of the way the Prime Tower so yeah that part's basically that's it that's done um there's there's nothing to change or set up on this um yeah so with that I will fire these off and jump into the next stage all right so remember when I said I was a little bit worried about not sticking to the silk well yeah fortunately they're just there for alignment anyways and not even necessary cuz I put tape on the back of the sp1 a little bit there these are really again just alignment I'll line it up put those in the back and then make sure it lines up in the front and squish it down it's part of what's nice about using this it requires no solder that's it it's done okay so stuck that in that's not going to go anywhere that tape will hold it in there just fine for the strip I personally am fond of cob LEDs I love the way these work they don't cast Shadows they light things up nice and evenly they're good and bright uh they fit very nicely in here however I want this one to be a little bit more special that's why I put the the SP 110 110e in here um a normal WS uh a nor normal WS 2812b LED is usually 10 mm thick it would probably not fit in that little Al Cove I picked up some of these Alves that are narrow altu alov is that how they say it alov yeah um they're only 5 mm they'll fit really nicely what I need to do on this I want to take off this extra wire lead that they give me cuz I I don't need it um honestly I'll just save those wires for the next project I can use them for one that requires soldering just cut off the heat shrink they put these leads on here because if since these are 5vt if you're going to have multiples daisy chain together you can have one controller run as many as you want you just have to introduce additional power to the chain um so alov nice they give you these little um pigtails to add power along the way as you go but I don't need that so I'm just going to peel that off get rid of it and I'm going to snip off the ends of the wire that I don't need no reason to get the soldering iron out just to take these two little pieces off make a soldering project where you don't need one okay so with this particular kit I've got a three pin to four pin adapter which is purely a physical adapter I could cut this and change it around if I really wanted to uh but why bother so stick that together and it's just a matter of running the lights around go back the adhesive [Music] and I if you can see that wedge something under here so what I'm trying to do is get this started and lining it up with the top of that color change this is part of why I like putting in this little translucent strip it gives me an alignment guide when it comes time to put lights in now what you didn't see was off camera already ran an alcohol swab around the inside of this so that it won't come loose it's one of my biggest f with these light boxes is that the adhesive backing on these strips it like this one says it's 3M and it probably is I have used plenty of them where they say 3M and there's no way it's 3M it's absolutely knockoff cheap stuff whatever and you get these off AliExpress orever what you expect uh but cleaning the inside of the print before you go to adhere these we'll ensure that they actually stick well and they stay stuck cuz what might go on immediately and seem like it it worked will then turn around and fall off a week later and it looks like I need to cut right there all right so so what I ended up doing I put a little bit of electrical tape just to cover up that contact and push it down keep it out of the way I put a piece of harness tape I love harness tape on The Wire just to hold it down and that's it no soldering just a little snipping and taking it on so let's find out if it works just like that then take whatever face plate we're going to use perfect the gray that you're seeing is an anti-slip rug tape works great to stop these from scratching walls and I already had a Feth it so instead I made a wumps cut okay so if I have my sign it's been hanging out in vertical orientation and it's time to change the plate I'm just going to get my thumbnail in between here to pull up one of those little tabs run a fingernail around put in a different one and now I have a horizontal sign

Channel: RevHazlett

Views: 10,243

Keywords: 3d printing, lightbox, light box, bambu lab, bambu studio, fusion 360

Id: QKAXMlw-RdA

Length: 69min 5sec (4145 seconds)

Published: Tue Nov 21 2023