Broken Bolt Removal in Jeep Cylinder Head

[Music] we got us a good old Hayman in the shop if you guys don't know what a Hayman is it typically starts something like a phone call and they go hey man I got something for you it's real simple take you five 5 minutes tops not always it's not always guaranteed 5 minutes tops but sometimes you get lucky and it doesn't take that long so what we have here is a cylinder head off of a Jeep engine I don't know anything about Jeep engine so I bet you some of you guys will recognize this it's a four-cylinder I just don't know what displacement it is so it's got a broken bolt you have your exhaust manifold that goes on here and this very last bolt that they said right up against the firewall with was broken off in there and they and I believe it came in because of this reason they said that the customer was complaining that it had a really bad exhaust leak and obviously you can't bolt down the exhaust manifold very well with a broken bolt they said that it was already broken off in there so they didn't even break it off trying to get the manifold off they found it and luckily they haven't tried to go in there and drill it by hand and and break drills and Taps and easy outs down inside there um this job is is going to be for a longtime friend of mine named Phil I've done a lot of projects for him that's been featured on the channel over the years him and his guys they got a awesome uh shop where they do they work on jeeps and custom builds and all kinds of different things Automotive related so usually when he comes into a project like this that he needs a little bit of Machining help on he'll reach out to me to see if I have time to mess with it and if I for some reason can't get to it he's got another guy in town that he will call and uh van he'll help him out sometimes as well but I appreciate them not coming in there and trying to get this out themselves because it just it just creates more of a problem whenever you break Cutters inside a broken bolt so I was going to point out this came in yesterday and I went ahead and sprayed it down with the CRC knocker loose and it filled up that what what's left of that cavity in there and I come in this morning so it's been so BR all night with the knocker loose and I can see that it went down through the bolt so that's a good sign it looks like the kner loose is doing its job and it's penetrating I'm going to go ahead and put a little bit more on here and let it soak a little more while we're getting things set up and get it ready so I'm not using the drill I'm sorry not the drill the welding technique on this I know that you can guys with skill can come in here and Tig W the end of that build it up weld a nut on it weld things to it try to get it out that's the mechanic trick to do it and I've done it myself many many times but I just prefer when I can if it's going to be a difficult bolt to get out to go straight to the machine and use the drills to try to extract the the uh the broken bolt or if you can't get it extracted you're already set up you can finish drilling it out and either peel the thread out or just cut it out however you need to and hopefully this is going to be pretty simple I'm going to start with our left-handed drill so we'll get it centered up we'll flatten it out with an endmill uh drill a little Center in in the center of it a small hole and then we're going to go in with our left-handed drill to see if it'll hopefully uh break its Bond loose and unscrew it while we're trying to drill it with our left-handed drill and I'm hoping that the knocker loose there uh has helped break the bond loose that's in there I don't know why the bolt is broken it could be bottomed out in there sometimes when a bolt has been torqued all the way to the bottom of the hole and it's bound up in those uh threads in the bottom that using a left-handed drill or even easy out does not get the broken bolts out sometimes you just have to drill the thing out of there so we're going to go to our KBC Miller machine and get this guy set up and see if we can extract this bolt here I did want to point out that it is 3816 already verified it with a and U so we'll we'll clean these holes up run a tap in there and they asked while I had it if I would go ahead and inspect this gasket face here I've got a straight edge that I can use to make sure that it doesn't have any kind of uh you know maybe it needs to be decked I don't know they just said check it with a straight edge and and let them know what what I find all right so we'll go over to the mill start getting this guy set up I poured my knocker loose out and we'll see if we can get a broken bolt out of this guy I was doing some verification to see if all of our machine surfaces were Square to each other so I can tell that those two surfaces are square okay right there and then on the other side so 180 from our broken bolt side which is where we're going to be sitting down if I flip it up you've got these machined areas right here which I'm hoping is square to our gasket face side the the uh piston side there and just putting my machine square up there it looks just visually it looks like it's nice and square I mean it may be out of touch I'm not sure it might be what's you know what this is sitting on there too but I think it's going to be square enough where we can actually set the thing down on this face since that's a machine surface and then maybe we can get in here with an angle plate or something on on either side and uh well there's nothing to bolt to there just put an angle plate maybe on the back of it and use a clamp to uh to hold it up just trying to get it inspected to see how we're going to be able to set it up and hold it in the mill okay we're getting it set up on the KBC knee Mill here what I did was I just used a couple of angle plates there on the back and I had enough room where I could just set up a couple of toe clamps to pull it up against the face of the angle plates there so we've got that nice and tightened down and I've already begun inspection and what I'm doing I'm using the test indicator here to sweep across this face to see if it's square and unfortunately it's not perfect I'll go ahead and sweep this for you so we got a distance of about two inches there and as we sweep the test indicator across we getting about right at 4,000 difference there high and low so it's dropping down as you go across but what I'm saying is that that is going to be flat enough and good enough for extracting a bolt drilling a a bolt out of there that's not going to be uh critical for that now if you're wanting to deck this surface machine this off obviously that needs to be as uh parallel straight and flat as you can get it but we're not working on the surface we're just going to be drilling a hole there so this is is going to be fine how we have it set up and we'll go ahead and break this down and go ahead and start getting centered up on that bolt hole there I wanted to point this out one of the cool things about the St at number 811 test indicator is that you have a dial face that you can reposition so make it either vertical or horizontal or at an angle whichever way configures uh works best for you so I really like that feature of this so you can come in here and and sweep a hole and have the bezel the dial face pointing up so that it's not coming around and you got to use a mirror or come in behind to look at it you can just point it up like that or if you're down here more of in a horizontal position and sweeping across the top of a face in a different configuration you can just pivot it down like that and the dial face is always pointing up at you whenever you're using it so super cool test indicator that stare it makes the number 811 whenever I go to Center up on a on a hole like that that we want to get Center up in and flatten the broken bolt out I like using a two flute endmill and I thought I would show you this because I just did this this might be very helpful I've got a couple in Mills I got a 3/8 and a 5/16 that I just cut in half now these were uh this was a double-ended two flute in Mills okay and these are some that a viewer gave me a while back I got them in this drawer right here a viewer had sent me this container full of uh brand new New Old Stock highspeed Steel endmills and Center drills and things like that and I've been I've been using these in the new shop whenever we need so I can't remember who sent that but that was totally awesome and I haven't made these yet for the new shop so I just thought I'd point this out so take a double Ed Mill you can use a single end but I like the double end cuz then you get two out of there and then you take that cut it in half you can put this in a Coller or drill chuck and then you can use these to come in here and Center up your hole just rotate your uh spindle and just line it up by sight until you get it close we got a 5/16 right there that you can use if you want to get down inside there a little bit further and then once you get it centered up lock the uh the table in place and use this just to kind of make your flat whenever you go to do your drilling so helpful little tip these are tools that I only use for doing this one operation right there is just flattening out a uh broken bolt all right all right already had the 3/8 collet uh mounted up in the in the collet Chuck there so we just use that to hold the endmill so we're going to use the 5/16 to try to line up this hole I put it in neutral so that you can spin it and I position the flute so that they're this way in X and then I turn it so that they're that way and then that's your that's your movement so you're just kind of eyeballing the edge of the cutter with the edge of the hole it's all you're doing it's just a more of an eyesight alignment there and you can usually get it really close that way so we know we need to go to me slightly and we need to go that way slightly that looks like that's pretty good in fact since we've got we've actually got some of the uh the larger bit of the hole there available so we might just go ahead and put one of these 38s in here let me look at it again that's lining up more more closely to the champer that was machined on that hole so I think I'll swap the 5/16 out for the 38 and see if we can line it up on that chamfer you just want to try to get as close to the center as possible dead center is always the best outcome but as long as you can get it really close I'd say within 10,000 or less it's kind of Ideal what you want it'll just make the job go that much better and of course you don't want to drill into the existing threads that's why you want it on Center there put back in neutral same thing we're just going to come right down on that chamfer and I'm going to eyeball it I mean that looks pretty good right right where it's at rotate it that way it looks like I'm already in the center using the 516 so that's good but I'm going to go back with the 5/16 so I don't actually cut the 3/8 diameter down inside the hole and then we'll use this to flatten the broken bolts out and you want to flatten it if you can it's always best that way you can your drill will uh start straight and it doesn't taper off as you're as you're trying to uh drill the hole out so at the beginning of this I was talking about how this is a Hayman right well check out what just showed up another Hayman look at that totally unexpected this belongs to a a local guy that actually found me on YouTube and he can't find anybody to help him do this so he was kind of desperate it and asked me if I could help him uh it's an intake manifold off of a Chevrolet 350 and he needs these holes drilled out right here because they're drilled at an angle that looks like 90° to this face right here but apparently they have some that are drilled more straight in line down that way so he's trying to get his food truck uh engine together for the spring and he needs these drilled out so this is not something that I'm real familiar with but we're going to drill him out and give him some clearance so that he can get this this is an ed Brock I believe get that edel Brock intake bolted down he says the way it's made is that the the bolts got to go a little bit more straight in line so we're just going to drill these out for some clearance so he can get his bolts in there anyway I just thought that was kind of funny it showed up unannounced unexpected and uh I'll work on this later and see if we can get him fixed up all right let's see if we can get our our B bolt flat if it tries to spin down into the hole that's actually a good sign that means that we should be able to get it out fairly easy just nice and easy I'm not pulling down very hard on the coil handle here and looks like we've got a nice flat surface to work with there on our broken bolt I am going to start with a center drill purposely so that we can get a nice Center hole down in the center right there just going to put a little dab of anchor Lube right there to help lubricate that tip nice and easy you don't want to break it I'm trying not to allow the bolt to spin I want it to spin but I want to do it whenever I'm using my left hand drill all right this is a 1 18 diameter left-handed drill we're going to use it to put a small hole down through the center of the bolt and left hand just in case it helps try to crack it Loose it's not very far in there felt like maybe qu 38 eight stick total we'll go ahead and try our larger left-hand drill now next up we got a quar inch left-handed drill in there we've got it spinning in low gear at about 150 RPM our hopes is that it's going to catch that broken bolt and spin it out and it did not so that thing is stuck in there pretty tight so now we're just going to have to drill the thing out next up we got a 932s left hand we're just kind of sneaking up on that tap size of 5/16 I'm assuming that maybe the threads are gall together and why it's not coming out of there sure does not want to spin [Music] [Music] out okay this is tap size 5/16 it's fighting us all the way to the end I'm going to see if there's a chance of maybe peeling some of the thread out with this pick first before we run the tap in there you can see it trying to trying to come out all right let's try to see if we can unpeel it here there's what's left of your broken bolt right there all right we want to run the tap down in that hole and these other holes there as well going to use the anchor Lube to lubricate the tap doesn't take much spring Center just in case we need it keep it nice and straight cleaned up the the hole nicely all right well that turned out great we did not get into the threads I don't see any cut marks where we cut the uh the uh the point of the threads so our job is done but I am going to go ahead and take our tap and just clean up the rest of these holes right here uh while while it's positioned right here and then Afters when we pull it out I want to go ahead and and uh check that piston surface right there and uh use a straight edge just to kind of gauge it and see if it's straight and flat another cool side effect of the anchor Lube whenever you're just cleaning holes out like this it's got a little bit of corrosion in there it helps capture those rust particles that it's scraping out of the thread and sticks to the tap it just sticks to the inside flute to the tap right there as you're cleaning it out so it helps pull the rust out and you take it take your air nozzle and just blow it off put a little little more anchor Lube on it keep working down the line here so as we finish this up some uh some more thoughts on broken bolt removals you know i' I've showed broken bolt removals several times throughout the history of my channel some we've had really easy success with some have had challenging side effects to it and there's definit ly any number of ways in order uh in which you can use to get a broken bolt out typically what I see in the comment section is people saying that all I've ever done is weld to it weld a n on it comes off every time guaranteed it is not guaranteed to get a broken bolt out just because you heated it and welded something to it I'm saying that because of my own personal experience I'm not saying that I'm uh uh any better than anyone else at doing this kind of work I'm just saying from my own experience when someone says guaranteed to work every time it's guaranteed to never work whenever someone says that okay so I've had many many jobs where we have Dad and I we've come in here and we've welded on it it's all it's a lot easier when the bolt is sticking out of the hole and what we would do we would lay a washer over that and then weld to the washer get it welded nice and solid and then we would stick a hex nut on it and weld the hex nut to it and that has provided um good results many times but there are just some cases where that bolt is not coming out of that hole no matter how much you heat and beat and twist on it it's just the nature of the Beast Sometimes they come out easy and sometimes they want to fight you I've had plenty of them go both directions I wish that I wish we we had a camera whenever I was working with Dad all the stuff that we did over over the years but I mean that was that was during the times that nobody took video of anything machine work related YouTube didn't exist social media didn't exist so just good memories and good experience all right all of our holes are now clean and we're going to go ahead and get this guy unbolted and then we'll uh we'll do a quick check on the on this other face here and see if it's flat I'm going to go ahead and break this down you're going to point out I I keep these wedges around these are super handy for all kind of stuff but they allowed me to uh hold this thing up since it's got a little bit of an angle right there or inconsistent in the cast I mean so that when you unbolt it it kind of like lays over and that just those wedges hold it in place just want to hold these so they don't fall down and hit the table like that all right there we go I'm just going to very gently hit this with the wire wheel just to remove any kind of surface contamin it so it doesn't mess up my measurement with our straight edge I'm not doing a full cleanup I just want to make sure that we don't have any raised areas from a gasket or something on there messing up our our reading there was a little bit of gasket left [Music] right that should be good that's where I need my my wedges again all right I'll go get the straight edge we'll see what kind of reading we can get on that all right so I have a straight edge here this is an actual straight edge and I even had it touched up one of our viewers a while back uh Pete I believe he's the one that actually touched this up on the surface grinder so we should have a nice nice straight edge I keep it laid flat in the toolbox there and we're just going to lay this across right here I think I see a little Gap in there all right so and take our feeler gauge set here thickness gauge let's pull some of these leaves out and see we'll start with the about 5000 so got a 5000 feeler gauge do it on this side so you guys can see it trying to go underneath there all right let me try we'll swap this around let's pull the 4,000 Leaf out we'll do a three and a two as well so there's our two two and a half three and 4,000 thickness fer gauge 4,000 is sliding underneath there 3,000 right there 4,000 in the middle 3,000 there and it should be touching on the end so I'm going to call it four 4 to 5000 it could be 5 cuz it felt like it was trying to go all right so we've got four to 5000 bow in the cylinder head I'm not an engine machinist so I don't know if that's good or bad obviously you want as flat as possible so I'm just going to relay this information to Phil so that he can make the decision whether they're going to bolt it back on there or they're going to have uh an automotive machine shop deck this thing off properly that's not something that I typically deal with I usually send stuff like that out to guys in town that deal with cylinder heads every single day so I just called Phil to let him know the cylinder head is done he's going to come and pick it up and I told him what what we found here checking it with our straight edge and our feeler gauge that we have a 4000 Gap here on the gasket face for the piston and he thinks that that is going to be fine they had no problems with the uh cylinder head leaking and you know they're going to be putting a brand new gasket on on this there as well and uh he thinks that that's going to be fine the main culprit was the broken bolt and the uh header right here the exhaust manifold was leaking on that side where that broken bolt was so he feels it's going to be fine I don't know offand what the specifications are on the allowable tolerance uh in which a cylinder head can be out of flat like that maybe you guys in the comments I'm sure some of you guys are well aware of that kind of stuff but uh I just don't know what that is but we got our job done and let me move my tools out of the way so I don't mess them up there but we got our broken bolt out right here that is good to go we cleaned up all the threaded holes and I think that they got a good gasket face there for the cylinder head so this job is done and I hope you enjoyed I think that video of getting the the what was left of the thread peeling it out of there um I haven't washed it yet but I think that turned out to be a pretty good video and hopefully it was kind of like one of those satisfying videos for the for the the content here you know our project video and hope you guys enjoyed and I hope you come back for the next project all right see you guys [Music] [Music] later [Music] [Music]

Channel: Abom79

Views: 172,805

Keywords: Abom79, Machine shop, machining, manual machining, manufacturing, industrial repair, lathe, mill, Cnc

Id: mdfQ7Fdsm38

Length: 31min 0sec (1860 seconds)

Published: Sat Mar 02 2024