British Columbia Aviation Museum FM 104 Progress Report 7

the next part of our project is to put together the wheel that we took apart to check how everything was inside it and so we're going to do that today you can tell who the parents are what we're going to do first in this project is put the tube in we're simply now putting baby powder on the tube and inside the wheel so that it does not stick anywhere or get hung up on anything as we put it put it back together as you can see it gets simply stuffed inside we then stood the tire up and we're now going to fill the tube so that it sits in the proper place and stays there while we put the hub together now that the tube is almost in place and there it is in place we'll be able to now start getting ready to put the hub or the hubs halves back in and get them in place so that we can tighten bolt everything back together a little bit of cleanup and we'll be ready to go we're using dish soap to lubricate the bead on the tire and we'll put some on the rim as well so that they slide together without getting stuck and it just makes it all go together a little easier we have one side of the hub in here and we're about to put the second one in [Music] it's now sitting in place and we will have to very carefully tip it over in a moment here so that we can start putting the bolts back in now that we have the bolts in we can start to tighten everything up and the five bolts will hold the rim together doing the final tightening on the bolts here so that this would not come apart again and now putting the lock plates in and filling the tire to the required pressure we then took the tire and dropped it back into the stand and after several attempts of trying to put the axle in decided the best thing we could do is pull the bearings back out yeah and then we will start to reassemble again from there simply unscrewing the cap that holds the bearing in place and then finding the ends of the snap ring [Music] that holds the bearing into the hub [Music] [Music] we started one of the bearings onto the axle and tapped it down some so that it would be in approximately the right place where it needs to be once the wheel is assembled and now we're going to slide the axle back into place there it is in place and putting the retainer in there so that it will not come out again there we go putting the second bearing in place on the other side doing it this way it goes together very easily we can tap it into where it belongs and then lock the two bearings into place and we're now ready to put the brakes back in brakes simply slide in and then the retaining clamps go on the outside which hold the brakes into the brake drum when the wheel is under the aircraft getting the axle centered so that it's in the right spot and put the second brake drum or the second set of brakes in simply a repeat of the other side when we started taking the wheels apart and looking to make sure that they were all still functioning our intent had been to put the wheels underneath the center section of the aircraft for display purposes there has been a change in plan and we're not going to be doing that at this time because if we put them underneath now we'll be tripping over them and banging into them as we're working under the aircraft when i first built this frame it was intended to be able to allow people to work from both sides of the frame to do the riveting and originally it was just going to be built and in fact it was built as just two simple rails but then it was figured that maybe the the frame might sag in the center so i added in these which are braces then i found that the the pieces we put on the frame were in the way so i had to adjust the frame by cutting out reliefs as you can see this stiffener has been placed in position per the location on the original drawings which had a single mounting hole to locate it and i located it by means of these um temporary rivets called clecos so now each stiffener is located in the correct position and can be now match drilled through into the into the bulkhead itself this is an inspection door which in in in the wartime days was used to open open up and look into the bombay to see if there was a bomb still hung up which would be rather unfortunate but anyway this bombay door now has to be attached here like so and then is is fastened in place by means of two twist screws so that's the next step to do after riveting these uh stiffness in position and there are matching stiffness going the other way on the opposite side which will now as i mentioned the stiffness have to tie up with other stiffness which are running in the opposite direction the stiffness on the front are going vertically in these various positions but they have to link up with these stiffness going across which i have now done it is very important because if you don't get those right all the holes will not match on the other stiffness so now the next step is to literally rivet all these various pieces in position and so we found a set of old drawings which showed a front view of the three wooden hoops taking that drawing i then figured out a scaling factor to import it into my cad system at one to one and then created a model of each hoop based on the outside surface as viewed from the front of those three wooden hoops which should get us close but the conversion factor if it's off of just a tiny amount we might not be an exact fit to the fuselage to help with all this we've set up a laser level the idea is to level the fuselage so that any subsequent use of the laser up at the canopy level uh we can trust that it's a horizontal but not just the fuselage we also then wanted to set the port and starboard so that it was level in a lateral sense as well use the level and reversing a level is a good way because if there's any error in the level you'll see a slight change in the position of the bubble so we did our lateral leveling and see if it's a tiny bit off and it turned out yeah about 50 thou on the starboard side was a little bit low so we decided to go to the four raft i can't do any better than that jacking up the starboard side at the the front we just added a 50 fire shim and then try again with the level and we went to the rear of the fuselage and it's laterally level and brought the tail end of the fuselage up such that our laser line is now horizontal along the longer arm that's what you see there i don't think you can do much better than that gary we thought we were missing one of the brackets that mount the wooden hoops of all the pieces that we have in bins so i'm i'm scribing here so i've taken a profile off the fuselage near where the mount point is it's a very gentle curve there and now i'm bolting between two pieces of oak piece of aluminum and i will hammer form this flange so that it has that curved bend in it it'll be a 90 degree bend but it'll follow that contour which will fit to the fuselage [Music] [Music] in order to get a proper longitudinal line here that extends through to the wooden portion of the canopy frame we needed to ensure that the steel portion was at the correct height in order to do that we started with mounting these sliding rails seen here and here but most importantly here to ensure that this rail will be at the proper height to carry on through the idea of assembling some of these pieces at the front of the steel tubular canopy frame is that we know that the frame itself is now in its correct position because the wood frame following it has to align to the uh the forward portion which is in the steel the flashing that was originally installed on the aircraft we believe was mounted with the canopy positioned and then the holes to rivet the flashing to the fuselage were drilled and then rivets to attach the canopy and the acrylic the problem is the flashing is a little bit different on one side than the other as originally built so we're having to do fine tuning on the size and width of the hoops such that when the acrylic is added to the wooden hoops it will meet to the existing flashing position we don't want to move the flashing position that's many holes that are already in the fuselage and the flashing every time we make any change in the foam core patterns you just keep measuring to see that we're not going asymmetric and it helps us too when we're just adding a little chamfer or any cuts we do on the wood we keep measuring from a known center point on a diagonal so that one side is staying at least close to the other side so here we're just trimming the foam before we trim the wood but again trim the same amount each side so that we don't get off center [Music] so what we did in the model we followed the outside profile per the drawings but we could have added extra and not needed it but in this case on the small hoop we want a little bit more thickness so much of this will get ground away when we do the chamfer but we do want a little bit extra width where it fits into the mount brackets at the bottom end that's something that you'll see right in here this is what we've already laminated there's a small little corner here that we want to have material for that's what these guys will fill in with so the laminations that we have done to date match that outside profile but what we've got right here is this very leading corner of this parallelogram we will form with the chamfer and we don't have enough wood to quite fill that in so that's what those extra laminations will do most of it will get ground off but you can see there's our center line we want to add just this little triangle of wood for that chamfered edge so as we mold these we end up with a square profile a square cross section and ultimately when that chamfer gets added we will turn it into a parallelogram with the forward outside corner being the sharpest uh corner and requiring the the most amount of wood and that's where we're just going a little bit outside of what the drawings indicated um [Music] we also add on the inside of the uh the hoop at the mount points a little bit of extra filler which is per the drawings and that just reinforces the wood right where the two bolts attach the wood to the mounting brackets

Channel: Randy Stagg

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Id: NO5e6c3WwKc

Length: 16min 7sec (967 seconds)

Published: Sun Oct 03 2021