Blown Generator Engine Rebuild - Part 2

hey guys welcome back so this is part two on this briggs and stratton engine which came on a free power mate generator the first part was mostly taking this thing apart cleaning it up and measuring it up and by the end of that video things were looking pretty good everything for the most part came within spec and not only in spec but they were close to the standard size i mean this engine has minimal wear on it and even the original crosshatch pattern was still in the cylinder the only question mark really was this journal here i have two conflicting briggs documents on what the clearance should be on that journal and if i believe the lower of the two clearance numbers were well within spec but if i believe the higher of the two we are out of spec but only just so you know i made the decision to rebuild this i ordered the parts and they're here we have the new connecting rod new piston we actually have two new oil seals i already installed that one and pretty much ready to start putting this thing back together so before doing that now that the connecting rod is here i actually want to measure the actual clearance between this journal and the connecting rod and see where we come in at so to do that i've got some plastic gauge here this is the green one it'll measure accurately between a thousandth and three thousandths of an inch so ideally we'd come in at one and a half thousandths that is the standard size and depending upon which spec you look at either two and a half thousands is out of spec or three and a half thousands but based on the measurements i took i don't think we're any further out than two and a half thousands but now that we have the parts let's find out for sure so what you do is you break off a piece of this plastic gauge roughly the length of the journal and you take the rod and the cap you torque it down to the full torque spec which is a hundred inch pounds and then you remove the cap and inspect basically how much it got smushed the more it gets flattened out the tighter the clearance so this would be a thousandth over here one and a half thousands two thousands and three thousand so ideally the standard spec on this is one and a half thousand so we'd be somewhere right there and i'm going to install the connecting rod the way that it would be so it is labeled pto and the other side says mag for magneto so the pto side is this way so i want to install it like that you so the way you do this is you find which mark matches and in this case this is a thousandth it's not that this is one and a half thousands we're getting close that would be the standard size this is two thousands and you can see we've actually passed it so we're actually somewhere between one and a half thousands and two thousands and that puts this actually within spec according to both the briggs documents so that is good so i already replaced the oil seal on the case i just have this one left and just take note before you pull it out on the position of this oil seal it is about i don't know maybe a 16th down so you want to set it back just about the same as it is now yeah i think that's good may have overshot a bit but we still have the whole free right there which is important for the oil to drain back in so i think we'll be okay i'm going to attach the new connecting rod to the new piston and the pin that was on the blown one i i think it's bent so i'm not even going to try to reuse that i do have a couple other pins that i've measured up they're within spec so i'm going to go with a used good pin okay so the piston has an arrow on it which points towards the flywheel that corresponds with the mag riding right there on the connecting rod yeah make sure that goes in the groove so i've been taking a minute just measuring up the rings and for the most part we're looking good all the rings i've measured so far came in at about ten thousandths of an inch according to the service manual between eight and sixteen thousands is standard size thirty thousand says reject but then i got to this last string and the gap is actually too small it's less than eight thousands i would say probably closer to five so we'll start with the eight thousandths and it does not fit let's go a little smaller maybe yeah we'll try five yeah five fits so we're off and it's on the small end which is not the side you want to be off on because these rings expand when the engine heats up and if it runs out of gap if that gap closes to zero the ring's gonna start pushing really hard on the cylinder it's either gonna cause damage to the cylinder or just break the ring so that ring does need to be filed yeah so now we're at 10 probably a little bit over check the middle of the ring travel yep still at 10. and still at 10. so the rings are good just put them on the piston get the piston installed and then start throwing the bottom end together the center ring has two stripes and they must be to the right when installing it like that the top ring does have a mark right there very hard to see it's actually red which doesn't show up too well but that similar to the bottom one goes to the right you you you the service manual calls for 100 inch pounds which seems a bit light given the size of this bolt the check chart calls for 200 which i tend to believe so i'm going to bring it up most likely to 200. so so so so one check i like to do before completely completely getting this thing together is to get it at top dead center not on the compression stroke though top dead center in between the exhaust stroke and the intake and at that point the piston is at the top and if you rock the crank you should see this the valve switching between exhaust and intake and if your timing's on that's what you should see but if these valves are switching in the pistons anywhere but at the top then you did something wrong with the timing so yeah the exhaust is tight the intake has a little bit of clearance but five thousandths does not fit and it should be between four and six thousands for both you do okay that's a little bit funny trying to figure out how this box goes on it's a little different than most that i work on and that's because it was upside down and the breather line was missing actually i shouldn't say it was missing there was a fuel line loosely jammed in there didn't fit at all so i got the correct breather to put in here but when putting it in the way that this was installed when i got the machine the breather line was way here and it just it wouldn't fit so finally realized whoever put this together at one point put the box upside down so so you okay ready to give this thing a try got the temporary fuel tank hooked up i also backed off the spring tension on the governor so it's going to run slow assuming it starts now i didn't clean the carb i did take a quick peek in the bowl it looked pretty good so i think it'll start but potentially there might be issues there and i've got a tachometer hooked up so we can see how fast it's running once we get it going [Applause] so [Applause] so [Applause] yeah not too bad the engine sounds good uh the carb definitely has issues it needs to be cleaned so we'll get that cleaned up get this engine back on the generator and see if the generator itself works yeah i don't think i'm going to clean that carb for a few reasons first the carbs already clean you know i already took a peek in here i saw no issues i don't see any issues now i mean it's not to say that there couldn't be somewhere but i think the ultimate issue here is that this is a clone it should say nikki right there and it doesn't you know if i take an actual nikki carb and look at it in the same spot you see right there it says nikki so i know a lot of people don't like nikki's but this is a thousand times better than a clone i have another one here which i pulled off a storm responder that was running very poorly and you can see it's the same clone now this one was actually running rich to the point where it was flooding and backfiring so i didn't even clean this one didn't even try i just set it aside put a nicki on it ran fine so i think that's what i'm gonna do in this in this case it's a clone it's not gonna run right it's not to say i couldn't try drilling something out but they're really it's not even worth it i got four oem ones here and i know this one's a little bit questionable so we'll give this one a try and see how it does yeah big difference with the oem carb on the generator side of things i don't have any official torque values uh that said i'm going to tighten the bell housing to 20 foot-pounds and the rotor bolts will be 23 the stator bolts will be 90 inch pounds do so [Music] so so with the spark plug still out i'm going to pull the engine over a few times just make sure i don't hear that rotor making contact with the stator and that the engine isn't binding perfect so all right it's looking pretty good and it's just about done i mean the only thing left is the tank but i'm going to hold off on that for now i just want to get it back outside we'll get it started adjust that spring tension and get the speed up to 61.5 hertz and then we'll test out that power head and make sure everything's good down there [Music] [Applause] the power 110 volts 52.8 hertz so 61.4 130 volts well we started off pretty good it started first pull and it was making power so bumped the speed up to about 60 one and a half hertz and applied a thousand watts and the engine started bouncing around quite a bit so i think i might need to move that governor spring i actually set it in the fifth position and that's usually where they are like around four or five but this one was on six which i thought may have been a mistake now the further away you go from the shaft the more or i should say the less sensitive it is to a load meaning the engine speed might sag a bit more than you would like to see on a generator but if you go too close you'll start to get surging because the governor becomes too sensitive and it just starts oscillating which is kind of what i was seeing there i mean it's not to say it couldn't be the car but let me put the spring back where it was we'll readjust the speed and try applying a load again all right let's try that out we're at 57 and a half i'm just going to try a light load to see how we make out okay we're at 61 hertz 127.8 volts foreign i think i was wrong about the governor spring i mean putting it back in its original position didn't solve the hunting and surging it may have minimized it a bit but the fact is it's running lean i did have to click this about two clicks over toward choke to get things to smooth out i set the engine speed to 61 hertz unloaded and at 3000 watts it held pretty well it was at 60.2 hertz i think 119 volts so overall the engine the power heads doing very good the carb well needs to be cleaned it's running lean but that's okay it's a lot better than the clone and that was just in a parts bin i have no idea where it came from or if it's ever been cleaned so we'll get this back inside get the carb cleaned up and hopefully finish this thing up do so size 65 is the last one that this jet fits through 64. it doesn't go all the way so i'm going to drill it out to a 64. if that doesn't work we'll try a 63 or a 62. okay that was a little bit too easy so i have a feeling i might have to go bigger but we'll start there can always take more off but can't put it back [Music] beautiful perfect [Applause] kind of surprised i thought i was going to have to drill the jet out a bit more than i did but it's running well i mean that carbs doing a good job it seems to be jetted fine now and handles the 3000 watt load quite well no hunting no surging minimal speed drop on this engine so we're looking pretty good i'm gonna get this back inside and we'll just finish it up overall not too bad my expectations were low going into this i didn't know if i could rebuild it but after taking it apart i could see things measured up pretty well close to the standard spec and even the original crosshatch pattern was still in that cylinder so all in i'd say i spent about 150 dollars in parts and i'm glad i did it was worth every penny of it this engine sounds really good the generator heads making power and yeah it's a good machine so i wish i knew what led to this failure originally i don't think it ran out of oil or if it did something happened suddenly like maybe someone ran this on a hill the oil went away from the dipper and just made quick work of that connecting rod but i'm not sure let me know what you think in the comments anyway i hope this video helps someone thanks for watching

Channel: James Condon

Views: 94,728

Keywords: 205412, 205412-0130-E1, Blown Engine, Blown Head Gasket, Bore Gauge, Briggs and Stratton, Clean Journal, Clone Carburetor, Crankshaft Journal, Crankshaft, Dial Gauge, Drill Jet, Engine Rebuild, File Piston Rings, Fixed, Free, Generator, Hone Cylinder, Ignition Coil Gap, Lap Valves, Load Test, Oil Sensor, Oil Seal, Piston Install, PM0545005, Powermate, Plastigauge, Generator Rotor Install, Generator Stator Install, Ring Gap, Small Engine, Teardown, Test Oil Sensor, Troubleshooting

Id: KViftZmOpQY

Length: 54min 30sec (3270 seconds)

Published: Thu May 06 2021