Black & White Film Guide, Shootout, and Comparison - 35mm, 400 ISO

this is my 400 speed 35 millimeter black-and-white film guide in this guide I'll be comparing every 400 iso black and white film which is actively being produced and readily available in the US market in 2017 that I know about if there are other films that I've minced let me know in the comments this is version 2 of a guide I did about six months ago this improves upon some of the methods and I'd like to think give a more accurate and dependable result and this also includes several films that I did not include in that review since they are new which is super exciting to me before we get into it you should know that I am in a film enthusiast but a novice in every sense of the word experienced film shooters will likely find my film review naive and sufficient and that's fine I'm not doing this for them I'm making this guide because I haven't found anything else out there certainly not on YouTube that does this sort of in-depth comparison the moment a more seasoned the expert decides to make a better one of these I will gladly point people to her or his guide but in the meantime I'll do the best I can and appreciate patience from those who are more experienced you should also know that this will not be a short video if you have time to watch the whole thing that's great but for everyone else I'll list the timestamps of the major sections below in the description so you can easily navigate to the locations which interest you will proceed like this first I'm going to explain how I conducted these tests for this guide as transparently as possible next I'm going to talk about the history and characteristics of each one of these emulsions if you're going to skip a section this might be a good candidate although some of you may find this fascinating after that we'll get to the most important section and that is the blind testing to help you figure out what film you may find most appealing finally I'll tell you what the results were for me for those who care now you should know that the way that any of these films look both green contrast sharpness tonality can all be drastically affected by your choice of developer your development technique your scanning technique and your post-processing the good news here is that within reason you can really make any film you choose developer scanning and post-processing combination get you the results you're pleased with if you experiment long enough film and developer the works for your budget and workflow and start experimenting with developers and development times and development processes scanning process and post-processing but all of us need a place to start I'm hoping this guide will give you a point of departure if it sparks interest in a specific film or introduces you to a film you've never tried but decide you'd like to try to me that makes the whole thing worth it so let's talk about how I did this I [Applause] wanted to start with four different photos that were taken in exactly the same conditions for each film to do that I set up a tripod on the centre of my living room and set up four different scenes to shoot one I shot through a window at the tree and a fence not particularly interesting one I shot naturally lit metal art which I proudly welded myself and then two portraits one with some nice rim lighting against a white backdrop and the other against the dark interior of my home with a Spider Man helmet so I've given a lot of disclaimers so far and I want to add one more this is probably the most important disclaimer except in the case of one film which we'll get to later I used the same developer and that's kodak HC 1:10 for development times I stuck with the times recommended in the massive dev chart now plenty of people will criticize my choice of developer and/or the massive dev chart but for the purposes of this guide we have to start somewhere and testing each of these emulsions with even several more of the more popular developers would have just been completely unrealistic I spent a lot of time considering this and ultimately I decided on kodak HC 1:10 for a lot of reasons HC 1:10 has been around forever and is known for being reliable and being able to produce predictable results in fact this is the one that Ansel Adams himself recommended for those learning the zone system it has a long shelf life it it's cheap to use as a one-shot it's not great for pushing but we're not doing any of that for this test at box speeds I feel like it's a strong choice for most of these films for many of these films people will argue that other developers would have been a better place to start out with I'm not disagreeing with that but again I had to start somewhere and I certainly can't test all of the developers additionally several of the films I'm going to people will claim are not true 400 speed films people will say the box says ISO 400 but everyone knows it works better exposed at 200 or blah blah blah look that might be true for several of these films however if the Box says four hundred speed film were going to treat it as a four hundred speed film any film can be developed at a different asset and yield different results just because you may like FOMA developed at 200 for instance doesn't mean it's invalid to develop it at the box speed of 400 and that's exactly what we're going to do for scanning I used the Epson V 800 with the same settings for each scan it's important to note that a scanner acts like the digital onboard processor and a digital camera and will absolutely have an effect on the look of a film again there's just no way we can test a wider set of options I think you'll find that my scan probably adds a bit more contrast than what you'd get if we just enlarge these and I think that's important to note could I have enlarged them yes but I'm Way too lazy for that that was a lot of disclaimers maybe I should have had you sign a waiver but with the fine print out of the way let's start looking at the history and the characteristics of these films we'll start with the cheaper or what I would call the budget films these are films typically used by students or the budget-conscious photographer and weighing in at a pretty nine cents per frame again in u.s. dollars the cheapest of all of the films is ultra fine extreme 400 I couldn't find a lot of information on the history of this film though it is labeled as being produced in Europe and many believe that it is another film simply rebranded I can't find hard evidence to substantiate that claim it seems safe to assume that Harman the maker of Kent Mir and Ilford films does the coding or the finishing of this film but I wouldn't go so far as to say that the emotion is simply can't mirror HB 5 as many claim regardless this film to me is surprisingly high quality for one so cheap it has low contrast with good latitude and I'd say medium to fine grain it dries flat and is great for scanning next up is FOMA pan which is also a risk to edu ultra which is also hoga it's all the same emulsion from the pan 400 has been produced by foam I check bunny for almost a hundred years it is Europe's most popular budget-friendly brand I found that prices vary between various brands so I'll usually watch and compare these prices and get the version which happens to be the cheapest at any given time currently FOMA can be purchased in the States at the cost of eleven cents per frame film appends grain is quite fine for an ISO 400 traditional cubic grained emulsion I'd call it a medium to strong contrast film which renders have been on the soft side there's a bit more halation than say Kent Mayer this halation or this retro film glow you get is probably why Holga version exists as this is usually seen as a virtue among the toy camera enthusiasts and market unfortunately it scratches super easily and some say becomes brittle after development but it dries extremely flat and is super easy to scan Kent Mayer is produced by Harman which also creates the ilford films Kent May represents Harmons budget or student film and costs 11 cents per frame Kent Mayer is a plastic based film known for being soft and it scratches very easily as a result it dries fairly flat though as a bit more bounce to it than ultra fine extreme and FOMA pan it has very fine grain it is sharp has medium contrast but it's grain tends to be clumpy and the film in general can yield unpredictable results it definitely has lower quality standards than its Tilford cousins the next two films are what I would consider to be mid-range films preferred by documentary style photographers where high quality and predictable results are absolutely essential but we're going through rolls and rolls of film and it's essa Tate's keeping the price point low like Kant Mayer Ilford HP v Plus is a product of harman technology it is a lower contrast film it has good shadow detail and well separated mid-tones with sharp grain although the contrast is low there's a great deal of latitude in this film which makes it great for pushing or for flavouring the curves and the contrast to taste after scanning selling for about fourteen cents per frame currently it might be less sharp than some of the films but it will provide predictable and reproducible results like camp mirror there's a bit more bounce to this film after drying as a side note I found hp-5 plus fans to be some of the most loyal and enthusiastic in the community more so than perhaps any of the other films that I'm comparing here next we'll talk about the oldest and arguably the most beloved black and white film Kodak Triax introduced in 1940 to this day Triax remains the world's best-selling black and white film when photographers combine its high speed with a 35-millimeter form factor it really revolutionized photojournalism in fact it was used by most photo journalists for over three decades Trax has undergone a number of minor engineering changes during its long history the modern version has smaller grain than the original it's known for its unique grain characteristics it is the reason that many prefer film to digital it's also a cost-effective film at 14 cents per frame Triax is also known for its deep contrasts it's a forgiving film it's accurate its consistent has good tonal range and it scans well and sharp unfortunately when tri x dries it becomes difficult to scan unless using glass film holders owing to the lateral rather than lengthwise curling that occurs with Ag feh AP X we need to emphasize that this is the new emotion which is not to be confused with the old emotion which was much loved by a loyal group of photographers until Agfa officially closes doors in 2014 a European company Lupus purchased the trademark but not the technology with the name Agfa a px only for their film I couldn't figure out where their film technology came from this film is considered inferior and cheaper than the original emulsion it is known for being milky faded or having low contrast tonally it does retain highlights well but it's also known for being unforgiving if exposure or development times are not nailed this film is also a bit more pricey in the u.s. at 19 cents per the frame one redeeming quality of the film is how flat it drives and my testing it's probably the flattest of all the emulsions whereas Lupus may have inherited the AG for a px named Rowley inherited the technology although I can't confirm most agree that Rowley RPX is the successor of the old agface P X Rolly R P X is known for its high dynamic range and holding details in the shadows it is a fine-grained film and show some high contrast allegedly this film was designed to be pushed while it was introduced as a low-cost film eight years ago or so it sells on more of the expensive end at eighteen cents per frame in the US early RPX is a bit more challenging to scan than some as it does have some significant curling after drying Rolly retro 400s is a successor of a film that I'm gonna butcher it it's AG forgive art a V vote I apologize I'm so sorry it is considered to be an excellent fine art film and it's characterized by high contrast and tightly packed grain with a bright red anti halation layer which you'll see when you rinse in development it has extended infrared sensitivity so you'll see increased sensitivity to foliage greenery as well as red tones the IR sensitivity enables penetration of haze and landscape photography the drawback here the flaws and the dust will appear much more easily in scanning and speaking of scanning this film has amongst the worst curling making it rather difficult to work with it's also on the more expensive end at a current price of 25 cents per frame in the US the next two films we'll be discussing are exciting to me because they're new films with last few decades saying film after film company shuttering its windows it really is encouraging to see two new films come out in the same year this is Berger panchromatic 400 it incorporates a dual emulsion design that gives it some of the tonality seen in some finer grain emulsions but with a lot more forgiving results this allows for a wider range of pulling or pushing Berger claims this film will work well with virtually any developer but as a new black and white film developed from modern era it has a flat profile which makes it a great choice for custom curves at scan time or in processing this is an affordable film at 14 cents per frame in the US about the only negative thing you can say about this new emulsion is that it dries with that same frustrating bowing you get from try X this next film was also newly released in 2017 by a name familiar in the film resurgence movements of the digital age and that's we hunt otherwise known as the Japan camera hunter bellamy was able to resurrect this film from an old discontinued surveillance film technology which was originally made by Agfa having put it back in production he named it Street pan 400 Street pan is a flexible and forgiving film with higher than usual contrast similar to Roley 400 s retro it has some sensitivities to infrared and thus has good haze and fog penetration the emotion is coated onto a transparent polyester base it is thin emulsion that drives flat the only drawback of this film in my mind is that the price in the US is staggering 27 cents per frame will conclude with two films which are called t grain films up into this point we've been talking about classic or qubit grained structure film but a more modern development in film photography has been the t grain emotions as I'm already outside of my comfort zone with this guide without delving into the science I'll just say that t grain film is uniform in its grain structure and characteristics it allows for grain which is more predictable more even and also a lot less obvious than classic or cubic grains of the other films we've been discussing so far t grain is often compared to digital it's preferred by those who don't like the grainy characteristics of most films t grain films are also more sensitive to variations in development temperatures time dilution agitation etc they are going to be less forgiving than classic films the first film we'll be discussing is Kodak Tmax also Lady Grey which is the same film this one's very linear in tonality it has very fine grain the t grain emotion as i mentioned has high sharpness very high edge detail T Max is a great choice if you don't like grain the t maxxbass has a pink tint to it like Rolly retro T Max is also extremely curly upon drying but it is also currently fairly affordable at 15 cents per frame Delta 400 is very comparable to T Max and while many will say it's not technically a t grain emotion like T Max it uses a similar technology and most just group them together like T Max it is characterized by high sharpness t grain characteristics wide latitude linear tonality and not much contrast the results you'll get with Delta 400r absolutely predictable but also commands a higher price at 21 cents per frame but for those of us who scan the good news is that it dries extremely flat finally we have a bit of a black sheep in the 400 speed black and white film comparison and that is another Ilford film xb2 super xB 2 is unique from all the rest in that it is not developed with black and white development techniques or processes but rather c41 or color development chemicals now if you don't ever plan to develop your own films this will matter to you not at all I'm not even sure the cost will be different to you if you take this to your local developer however if you do your own development it does matter c41 process is a bit more complicated than black and white black and white processes can be a lot more forgiving when it comes to times and temperatures but with c41 chemical temperatures matter a lot more and so does your measurement precision any miscalculation and your chemical measurements can screw things up faster than with black and white now I don't want to scare any of you away I mean I do a lot of both types of development and if I can do it trust me you can do it but if you're a beginner to film processing I'd absolutely recommend starting with any of the other film types I've mentioned previously and not this one as you'll have an easier time of it that disclaimer out of the way let's talk about this film Alfred XP was released by oferta in 1980 but has progressed through a number of improvements like most of her films kodak had a competing product in BW 400 CN 2014 Kodak announced the discontinuation of BW 400 CN which means that Ilford XP - super is now the only black and white film on the market that can be developed using c41 processes or at least was designed to be as a color or a chroma genic film xB - has what many considered to be an extremely strong advantage over other traditional black and white films as it allows you to use digital ice during scanning digital ice is a feature in scanning software which can automatically remove dust and scratches because they have strongly contrasting infrared signatures it becomes fairly easy for products like silver fast to remove a lot of this junk with 1-click but since all black-and-white films produce silver halides during the development there really is no infrared information and thus no digital ice but xb2 super does giving it a distinct advantage for those of us who wish to make use of this feature when we're scanning this film is extremely sharp and is very smooth tonally its grain is extremely subtle ok now comes the fun part we're gonna do a blind comparison test of all of these films the moment you've all been waiting for so for that I'm gonna jump onto the computer and walk you through a method of scoring you could use if you want so the rest of this guide I'm gonna be hanging out here at the computer the first thing I want to do before we dive into the blind test and we start looking at actual films I want to give you a tool that you could use if you want to help you evaluate these films and decide really which ones gonna be the best for you this is a tool I wrote for myself because I'm not very good at decision making and I don't trust my own emotional skewer just important quote-unquote important decisions so I always do kind of these split decision templates and Excel spreadsheets or whatever to help me make a decision so I did that in this case and I'll share that with you in case you want to use it if you don't if this doesn't sound interesting to you and you just want to kind of skip past this straight to the blind test here's the timestamp you can skip to go straight to the blind test alright for everyone else if you'll navigate to the URL on your screen right now you'll be taken to this template so here's my black and white film decision tool they'll hopefully help you make a decision it certainly helped me to make a decision on which film is right or a great place to start anyway so to use this there's two ways this is going to be read-only for you when you go to the URL to grab it which I'll put here again when you go to it you're going to either want to make a copy of this that will create a new version of this in your own Google Drive if you have your Google Drive and where you can edit it or you can download this as an Excel spreadsheet don't download it as anything else as it will destroy the formatting and math that I'm using but it should work fine and Excel I haven't tested it but it should work fine in Excel certainly it'll work as you if you copy that into your own Drive Google Drive folder you can use it there all right so the very first thing we're going to want to do is as we read here we're going to want to rate each of these factors along the top on a scale of one to five one being not important to you five being extremely important to you don't worry so much about what these mean meaning I'm not you're not defining what good or bad tonality means for this first one or what is good grain structure versus what is bad grain structure for you I mean you may prefer a tight packed grain as opposed to a clumpy cubic type grain whereas somebody else may like the randomness of a cubic and and really in your face grain that's all personal preference do not worry about personal preference all you need to decide at this point is how important the topic of grain is for you when deciding on a film you can worry about quality of it later but for a night now you're just gonna rate these so I'm gonna go through and I'm gonna say for me tonality contrast I grouped those together because they're related latitude is another great word how much you can get out of that film how much information is going to be there that's a little bit different than contrast I understand but in my mind the related things enough to where I group them there so for me I put them here sorry if you didn't want to do that you might have to alter this spreadsheet to work for your needs and this is that's beyond the scope of this though tonality in contrast for me though is important I care a lot about what kind of contrast I get out of a film right off a scan so I'm going to put that pretty high as a four grain structures huge grain grain is the reason that I like to shoot film to begin with as opposed to digital because of the unique and randomness of the grain that I get so I'm gonna put that a five shadow detail that's just how much detail I can get out of those shadows especially if I under expose what's it going to look like is it going to start to fall apart if there's shadow some of these films don't do very well with underexposed and so that's important to me so I'm gonna put that as a for edge sharpness or the kind of the opposite side of that as halation or that glow that film glow you get they're kind of opposite ideas but the general topic is one that's important enough to me to put on here I'm probably gonna write this as a two and the reason is is because I don't actually shoot film for sharpness vine if I need crisp sharp photos I'm gonna use digital because I'm gonna get the the sharpness I want out of modern digital lenses and sensors when I'm shooting film I I don't care about it I like that grit I like that the character that I get and it's okay if it's not super super sharp so I'm gonna put that as a two for me personally then we get into these other things that have less to do with quality of the film and more about ancillary items like price prices I mean it's not like completely unimportant to me but it isn't the most important thing scan ability is on the other hand I really hate I've learned since I did my last 400 speed review that I hate messing with films that curl a lot I've been shooting with Tmax almost exclusively since that review and Tmax just curls more than I'd like and so yeah scan ability that's important to me scratch sensitivity that's you know I can work around it if I have to not the end of the world if it gets a little scratched a little beat up because I can handle that in post infrared sensitivity not important to me at all might be to you I have it on here because I figured some people might feel that's important and and there is a substantial difference in these films in that area last thing we have black and white over c41 or if you want you can reverse those c41 over black and white and how important that is to you as we already talked about if digital ice is important feature for you to have then c41 is gonna be important over black and white whereas if you'd rather not mess with c41 chemicals and processing which is a little trickier and more expensive than black and white then you would you know you would say black and white over c40 want to rate that kind of high for me personally it's not the end of the world if I have to use c41 to get a film that I like and a character I like so I'm just gonna put that is a three that is how I'm gonna rate these factors of them as importance and once I've done that then I'll go to the next section which is down here and this is gonna be this area right here is the blind test area don't worry about this section yet and we'll do that last once we know which film is which but for now what we're going to do is we're gonna we're gonna look at the contact sheet for each of these scenes basically it's sort of a contact sheet so we're gonna look at a contact sheet for photo one I'll show you screenshot of what I'm talking about or obscene scene one I guess and that's gonna show you all 13 films what they look like side-by-side and then we're gonna zoom in and look at those in the blind test in detail so for each one of those we're going to give them a rating this top row is a theoretically perfect film meaning of the scores of five for every scene for every factor and that will get it a total this X column is gonna be different for you but for me that 150 represents a perfect film and then we get a total percentage which will we'll be able to see with the when we start calculating the other film types how that compares to a theoretically perfect film I don't have the film names here for obvious reasons this is a blind test so I've got letters to represent films we want to avoid brand bias so you're going to have to go into it without knowing what these films are at first so the way it'll work for instances will come here to the photo one the contact sheet for photo one will you know we can either start here we can start here you can do this is your own pace where you can follow the video but we'll you know we'd start with here at J to get kind of a random order it'll zoom into J so we'll go down here to J will find photo one and we'll rate it based on its tonality how how good is the tonality of this photo and then we'll go on to grain structure for J photo 1 how is the when we look at it how is the grain structure looked we that quality then we go to shadow detail look at those shadows and then finally we go to edge sharpness or heart elation we look at these edges to see how sharp they are and whatever this thing is focused at and yeah then we'll do that for every film for every scene it'll take a while and and then after we're done with that we'll move into this section over here to get to other factors that are important the film so hopefully you find that helpful as you evaluate your films if not you know you can find your own method that works for you either way you have two options at this point as we proceed to the blind test you can go through and watch the photos proceed as they unfold before you as I'll show them to you or you can download those contact sheets that I told you about and look at them at your own leisure or your own pace if you do that then you're going to want to skip to this time stamp for the big reveal either way catch you on the flip [Music] [Applause] [Music] [Music] [Applause] [Music] [Music] [Music] [Applause] [Music] [Applause] [Music] [Music] [Applause] [Music] [Applause] [Music] [Music] what music is that I hear something to try and make you feel at all [Laughter] [Music] [Applause] [Music] [Applause] [Music] [Music] [Music] [Music] okay well that was a lot of work I just went through it just like hopefully you did and yeah that was time-consuming but hopefully it'll be worth it so with the blind test out of the way now comes the big reveal so I'll put on the screen now the names of the films associated with those letters so that you could see them so for those of you who used your own methods to evaluate these films and didn't use my fancy template you you're probably done by now if that's the case I'd love to hear in the comments before you go before you folks take off please drop me a comment or two and let me know what you thought what did you learn and what could I improve in this for the next time I do one of these for everybody else those who did take the opportunity to use the template that I created your work isn't finished there's a little bit more we still have to do so here's my completed results the next section we need to get into here is is right here but before we do that I want to show you how you can reveal the the film names inside the template the way to do that is just to click on Roby which is hidden quite well it's so so narrow that you can't actually click and drag it out you have to right-click on that go to resize and - like 160 and then that will reveal the film's great so once you've done that then you can come over here and we can start to fill in these values now you may just want to use my values that that I have here because for instance if you're in the US and 2017 you could just use my price and you can certainly reuse my data for these and to quickly get your results to do that I have another copy of this this is mine my personal results so you can go to the link I'm putting on the screen now to go to a read-only version of that and then you can copy all of this data and put it back into your spreadsheet if you want or you can fill this out for yourself so we're gonna go through this a little bit first off price these so the scores here are based on the pricing I gave you the sense of what the pricing was when I went through the film review earlier in the video but I'll put on the screen now the price per frame now it's important we talk in terms of price per frame and not in terms of cost per roll because some rolls have more frames on them than others so I do cost per frame so I took those and I just basically turned them into a one to five value for these prices here so they can get a score on scan ability that also just goes off the date I already told you based on my own experience with how these films curl and how difficult or how simple it is for them to lay flat for a scan then we go on a scratch sensitivity I really quick ran a not super scientific test because I was interested in this and that was I just grabbed a single frame from each one at random of each of the roles and I kind of scraped it with a little fork thing I found in in the kitchen I scratched both sides emulsion side and then also the other side just to see if we could get some scratching or see which of these films held up better than others again this was just a real quick test these were my results on which one's perform better which were more Hardy for example I think the best one is Delta seems to be a very tough film from what I can tell as far as scratch ability and then we go to infrared sensitivity really there's only three films here that have infrared sensitivity than my knowledge and that's jch Street pen and really retro both have strong infrared and then you've got a little bit with burger it seems Tmax some will say there's some also maybe I should give that it to I don't know I'm not super sure about that but anyway those are my values there I don't really care about infrared so you know research this if you want it to be more scientific and then finally we have black and white versus c41 so this one's easy every it's a five that's black and white and then the xb2 gets a one more you would reverse those if c41 is as something that you see as beneficial so with that done if we peek over here at my scores these to me were they were more than just surprising these were actually shocking to me I honestly just completely did not and expect to get these results really just pretty much floored by them but the top four results there's only one film that I went into this thinking was a film that I really loved the other three were films I actually have had a lot of distaste for it you may even have caught that in my review of these films for instance FOMA I didn't think I liked FOMA to be honest same with ultra fine although my experience with it is limited I just see it as a cheap film so I think I just discounted it out the gate just because it's so cheap really I just thought this has got to be a cheap and not a reliable film and a lot of people hate on the AG fay PX because they compared to the original Agfa and it's not the same and part of me wonders now if they're just upset because it's different because in my mind this is a lot better film than I thought it was I was really impressed with its quality and a lot of things like its scan ability it really is the flattest of the films it really has a beautiful beautiful grain it's great shadow detail pretty sharp more sharp than I thought I heard it was pretty milky film and I didn't think I wouldn't have called it milky I mean if anything that the film that felt milky to me was xb2 and the grain and xb2 felt almost glassy almost like I had a layer of some sort of epoxy ER or a layer something over a clear I don't know how to say it but it anyway xb2 felt to me I didn't feel black and white grit to me it didn't quite work I really thought Barger was gonna take it honestly just because it's such a crisp beautiful film it just didn't score that well for me and I think part the reason is because I feel like scan ability is so important and burger was hard it was just super curly and in a bad way that that kind of rainbow curl lateral curl was I just hate it JC h-street pan I'm a fan of this film I think if it just wasn't so darn expensive in the States certainly be a film that I would love to shoot with I think the only problem with it for me is that it didn't seem like it did very well in the shadows to me it looked like it was breaking down a little bit more as it almost looked like it had been pushed really far as opposed to some of the other films so there's always obviously there's a there's a possibility that I just didn't do a very good job with development there and certainly you need it you need to keep that in mind that take all of these results with a grain of salt because this was the first time developing these films so I will say that that although seemed to me that JC h-street pan started to fall apart in the shadows maybe it could be more solid if I'd use different techniques because it scanned well and flat and it has a lot of other attributes I really like HP 5 better than I thought the contrast I don't love but that's easy to handle and post in fact it separates really really well those mid-tones contain a lot of detail what else I feel like Rollie retro that used to be my favorite film and I think that part of the reason why it's not anymore in part of the reason why it didn't do so red-hot here is because again the scan ability it's it's not easy to scan the Kodak films same thing both of those are frustrating to scan for me but aside from that you know great films otherwise no complaints can't mere that one also surprised me scored pretty high and it's not a film I like now there's one other thing to keep in mind and this is something that I would keep in mind for both camp mirror and ultra fine as well as FOMA for that matter and that is that there are common complaints that those films are not dependable to get reliable results or consistent results that you'll get random occurrences of different results depending the roll of film and to me that's that would be a big a big downside to these films for my part I am excited to try ultra fine extreme because it's my highest-scoring film and it's also the cheapest so for me it's like that's a no-brainer that's a that's a film I'm gonna start shooting right away so for me that the the thing to figure out as soon as possible that film is to see how it does over time how consistent the results are anyway I kind of am rambling a bit but I'm excited about these results so we could probably dive into deeper deeper here and we could talk about it for another hour but but I know this this video has been super super long so what were the results for you does this spark and interest in you in a new film does it make you change your opinion of a film that you previously disliked for some reason I'd love to hear about it in the comments that stuff is super interesting to me and I'd love to talk to you more about it also what can I improve in these tests what did I do wrong or what could I have done better what would you like to see in the next one I certainly plan on doing this again and I and I want to get better at it every time I do it and provide value to folks hopefully this has been obvious and evident to you but this video represents quite a bit of work and also some monetary investment on my part I truly hope that you found it valuable and I really hope that you'll subscribe and support what we're doing here and stay tuned for future episodes alright guys that is it I am tired and ready to be done with this video but not so much that I'm not excited about the next one in fact I already have plans on how I'm gonna do it I'm not gonna tell you how I'm gonna do it right now and what the film is but I will give you a clue the stuff in front of me here should be a clue into how I'll be conducting that test so I'm super excited about that and I hope they'll stay tuned and join me again for that one talk to you later bye bye

Channel: Andrew & Denae

Views: 125,949

Keywords: black and white, b&w, black & white, film, rollei, 400 asa, 400 iso, 400 speed, which black and white, which black and white film should I, rollei rpx, rpx, agfa, apx, agfa apx, rollei retro, 400s, tri-x, trix, tmax, t-max, kodak, kodak tri-x, kodak t-max, fomapan, foma 400, foma, hc-110, hc 110, film comparison, film guide, massive dev chart, ilford, harmon, kentmere, review, comparison, hp5, hp5+, streetpan, bergger, pancro, pancromatic, ultrafine xtreme, ultrafine, shootout, compare, jch, jch streetpan

Id: zG02lCyAuqg

Length: 52min 39sec (3159 seconds)

Published: Wed Aug 23 2017