Best pre emergent. Crabgrass control with pre emergent herbicide. DIY How to choose the right Pre M

[Music] thanks to that guy's pestle on ginger and today we're going to talk about pre-emergence before we get into deep today I want to make sure that everybody at home has a baseline of what a pre-emergent does and how it functions now the majority of us are going to use pre-emergence for crabgrass control in our lawn and in our Gardens but what pre-emergence do is they disrupt routing after the plant goes through its germination process and that's right the plant does have to germinate or it doesn't work now most of us are going to use a pre-emergent service in our lawns in our garden areas to disallow crabgrass from taking root in our lawns that come up during the summertime now our pre-emergent in general is a chemical layer that's put into the soil about a quarter of an inch all the way down to an inch and a half down that disallows seeds from taking root now part of this is is the seed has to germinate so it is not a pre germinator we need that we'd see to germinate because as it hits the chemical that's when it disrupts mitosis cell division and chlorophyll uptake one of the most important parts of the pre emergent application is when you put the pre-emergence down it's not going to say the air temperature that you need to be concerned about it's all about soil temperatures now I carry this Bed Bath and Beyond meat thermometer so I can measure the soil three inches under typically crabgrass is going to germinate at 55 degrees which means that you want to have the soil temperatures be below 50 when you apply your pre-emergence in order to be effective now let's talk a little bit about application rates because this can get a little confusing number one you want to know your grass type your warm season grasses in general are going to take a higher dose of pre-emergence than your cool season grasses now I wanted to give you a friendly reminder to familiarize yourself the label of the product that you choose to purchase not only they going to have a minimum and a maximum application rate that you can use for the season but they're also going to have a minimum application rate for crabgrass prevention and I find that on a lot of these labels minimum rate for crabgrass prevention is not the minimum or the maximum rate on the label now you don't want to go above and beyond the application rates because you run the risk of leaching into the ground which can be toxic and it's not favorable for the environment although the pre-emergents are highly unsolvable and water the one thing that breaks them down is soil microbes and the hotter it ends up getting the more microbial action that you're going to get that is going to chew through your pre-emergent services now another question I wanted to go over real briefly is why would I choose a split app that gives me two to four months of control instead of just jumping to the high rate on the label that gives me six to eight months of control now the answer is pretty simple it's going to depend on your local weather and climate if your local temperature is really not going to get above 85 or 90 degrees during the summer you may sustain that pre-emergent without the microbes chewing it up and it will last six to eight months but if you're in an area of like I am where we constantly see above 90 degree weather from June all the way into August that premiere just going to get chewed up by the microbes and you're going to be left with nothing for your fall annuals so it's really important to understand that a split app has its advantages if you're in an area like that now most labels will allow you to take the maximum rate that it will allow for the year and just cut it in half now in the summer you want or I'm sorry in the fall time you want to apply the pre-emergence when the soil starts getting around 70 degrees because as it drops below that that's when you're gonna start seeing those annuals and biennials in the fall germinating now besides hot weather there's a couple of other things that are going to impede the efficacy of pre-emergence lawn aeration you want to make sure that you aerate the lawn before you apply your pre-emergence same thing with power raking the third thing is just general maintenance with your weed whacking along the edges I see weeds all the time along the edges and nothing in the middle of lawns because people have disrupted the soil enough it makes it easy for weed seeds to come in and my number one issue proper watering don't let the soil dry out now with so many different kinds of fruit merchants how do you know which one is right for you let's go take a look now right off the bat you can tell I've got to divide in two separate categories we've got a granular section and then we have our spray section now the difference between the two in my opinion is the spray you can paint on for a better even distribution where the granular it's kind of a pump and dump you really hope that you get it out right but the problem is the edges the edges are going to struggle and you're gonna have to touch them up a lot of you guys are wondering hey well ginger why should I buy these products as opposed to just what I can get at my local hardware store with the pre-emergent in it and frankly it just comes down to the size of the granular the smaller the granular the better the coverage that you're gonna get so having a specialized pre-emergent that has a fine sized granular in it is gonna be far superior than the bigger sized granular because it gets wet it's gonna distribute more even now I find the pre-emergence can get a little confusing so I've done here is I've separated them into different categories now all pre-emergents are categorized as selective herbicides which usually when I think of selective herbicides to think of something that is not going to kill the grass but is going to kill the weeds now in the case of pre-emergence it's selective because it's going to get rid of the seeds that are post germination in the process of rooting however I find there's a couple different categories there are pre-emergence with post emergent properties so let's go through these now you'll notice here the gingers placed these different bags into three different categories because that's how I view them they each do something different so we're going to talk about a little bit the only thing that I really want you to pay attention to is the active ingredients and how I categorize it so in group number one we've got pur diamine we have eye socks oven we have this bucket of snapshot which is a combined trifler illan and i socks have been as well now i socks have been tampered I mean equally work really really well the per diamine comes out very syrupy in my opinion this is the jinja's number one top pick or clay and sandy soils if you're just looking for an anti Rooter that's all these do when we get over here into category number two this active ingredient is called die I appear now die up here does really really well with crabgrass prevention now it's very permeable into the soil and this is why I have a love-hate relationship to it as well because if you overwater it can easily get too far under the soil it also doesn't overwinter well in climates that receive a lot of snow or rain because it pushes it too deep now the positives on this is it's got post emergent control and just like this bag says it can be applied up to four weeks later for a crabgrass prevention because it acts as a post emergent up to the three leaf stage with crabgrass so if you have clay soils that I pier works really really well but you want to apply it right at about that 45 50 degree marker I personally don't like to overwinter with this product now in our third category we have a much better post emergent herbicide pendulum 2g it's getting really really popular it's got pendimethalin in it now the pendulum has pendimethalin in it which has a broader kill for its broadleaf weeds or a broader label specific to post emergent control now the one thing I found fascinating with the pendulum ethylene is if you have a ton of weeds petal melon is a good idea because it will still give you post emergent control for weeds that have not believed out but have remained in the stem form which these other two categories won't do last but not least on our list is tenacity and out tenacity is a different beast in and of itself it's classified as a group 27 or beside in my opinion this is probably the safest herbicide on the list which is kind of funny because a lot of people I think it's the name that makes them feel uneasy about it but it is one of the safest ones on the list in my opinion now the best thing about it is if you're gonna be over seating a lawn you could do two applications back-to-back with this or about two to three weeks and then you can immediately oversee so you're gonna get pre-emergent control plus it's not going to kill the seed that you put down which these other ones can't do now regardless of the product that you choose is really important to understand how the product gets to the soil this is not a foliar application it needs to be a soil application which per the label the majority of them are going to tell you you need half an inch of water or more to push it into the soil to get it active it's really important that the product get into the soil because that's what causes the rooting issue now if your intentions for any of these products are to take advantage of the post emerging aspects of the herbicide you need to let the product dry for 12 to 24 hours or to sit in a granular state on the leaf of the intended target pest for 12 to 24 hours before watering it in otherwise it will not work so I want to make sure that we analyze all sides of the spectrum so I've developed a sheet here that I want to show you it's got the product name the active ingredient and then we have the unit size cost per unit and then I've broken it down into costs per thousand square feet some of these bottles are bigger some of them are smaller I wanted to give you a broad spectrum of what's going on you notice the snapshot which has the combined pre-emergence the most expensive but it's also not rated for turf grass on the label the pendulum which is one of the more effective pre-emergence in my opinion is the second most expensive at six dollars and 37 cents which means that the cost for the average home 22 dollars and 28 cents which I believe is a reasonable application rate even if you had to do that twice a year now these are at the mid points of the label so if you want to do is split up you could do a split after the I Sox have been three dollars and five cents the per diamino man in a wettable 32 cents per thousand square feet so you might one bottle it's gonna last you years but it's also way cheaper than all the others now one thing that shocked me wasn't the dimension but the tenacity a dollar 23 per thousand square feet that's nowhere near the 856 the snapshot is making tenacity a very affordable option I think sometimes we get fixated on the small bottle but it actually does 4 to 5 acres in that one bottle now obviously cost is a big factor but you're probably wondering why you would do the pendulum ethylene and spend that much more money versus the per diamine which is obviously cheapest out of any of them well with any general herbicides you want to switch them up you want a different active ingredient to make sure that the efficacy rate stays high now pendimethalin you really don't have to switch up the products according to the manufacturer the soil doesn't get used to it the weeds don't get used to it or when it comes to the redeeming the death I appear in the AG sauce have been it's best to put those on a rotation so if you're just looking for general pre-emergence make sure you switch those up every 1 to 2 years and put them on a three ring rotation for best results alright guys the pests and lunges I really appreciate you guys watching if you guys have any questions or concerns hit me up in the comments love to help you guys out and the meantime guys will see on [Music]

Channel: Pest and Lawn Ginja

Views: 123,647

Keywords: pest and lawn ginja, crabgrass, crabgrass control, crabgrass killer, crabgrass removal, crabgrass vs tall fescue, how to remove crabgrass, how to kill crabgrass, crab grass, how to prevent crabgrass, pre-emergents for crabgrass, post emergent, post emergent for crabgrass, herbicide for crabgrass, crabgrass killing lawn, crabgrass not dying, how to control crabgrass, how to prevent crabgrass in lawn, dithiopyr, prodiamine, isoxaben, pendimethalin, pre emergent herbicide, tenacity

Id: sR4z_LydHDk

Length: 12min 48sec (768 seconds)

Published: Sun Mar 24 2019