Bambu Lab A1 Review with AMS Lite | Best 3d printer for beginner?

[Music] hey guys welcome back today we are going to review bambula A1 I bought this printer on December 14 when it first released around $610 with AMS light and plus shipping and tax they so A1 by sale for 399 MSRP let's go over some of the technical detail and see why would you consider this another bad Slinger from bamboo lab first of all the new A1 looks very similar to A1 Mini the overall style is very much carried over from A1 Mini or it could be A1 Mini is carried over from A1 who knows the machine is fully covered with injection mode in plastic under plastic cover the entire machine was heavily used aluminum piece to improve overall frame rigidity and stability very interesting under the printer base there are four hall of silicone fee I think the hollow of silicone was designed to absorb some of the viation from the printer A1 used a linear rail on x-axis metal rail with a metal wheels on y- AIS and two lead screw on the z-axis the two lead screw on z-axis are buried within a Gantry vertical frame it makes the printer looks very clean overall but it will be he to do the main in the later day bamboo last state that A1 could reach 500 mm m/ second two have moving speed and 10,000 mm/s maximum acceleration pay attention here two had moving speed not printing speed it is more like a marketing slogan things just like everyone else does out there the disadvantage on y- axis due to Mechanical structure is still there which we are going to talk about more in the printing assignment but it is still a very fast printing speed overall A1 also have quick swap nuzzle feature or it is more like a swap entire hot end leuda symbol is very much carried over from A1 Mini I have confirmed that the nozzle from A1 Mini is also compared with A1 if you are someone who likes to use different size of nozzle for different prints this will be a GameChanger feature for you the Hot N A come with 300 maximum temperature which means it should be able to print some of a high temperature filament like ABS or carbon fiber BL also due to a lck of enclosure sound of exoic fil might be okay if you print occasionally but may not be good enough if you are printing a lot of those filament lexu the cable here might be a bit the problematic from the stock setup the cable will sometimes caught by the Gantry and pulling the cable out from this [Music] point the major change from A1 Mini is that a bu play size is finally 250 mm which exactly saying with the X and P series their BL play are actually identical on the play we see the heater B it's different from anything else in the market we have seen aluminum plate with a magnet sticker set up for almost all the 3D printers in the market but over here A1 does not use magnet sticker instead A1 has machined a lot of slot for magnet I don't know if this design is aim to get less whopping issue over the time due to the thermal expansion effect to the aluminum plate The Bu plate assemble itself it's fully covered with plastic so I can't really tell if the heater element is anything different with everyone else on out there the max bat temperature for A1 is also 100 cus degrees I have also found that the temperature across entire bu PL is somehow not very evenly distributed [Music] yeah A1 does not use pressure sensor for automatic back leveling like ax and P series like A1 Mini A1 also use added sensor to calculate distance from nozzle to the printer B it will also calculate GX is relatively High to the B play so there's no manual G input needed Addison also works for active for rate compensate features A1 also have sell functional test when you're first time running it it include resonation compensate active noise cancellation and bat leveling the noise cancellation feature works great on my A1 it has significantly reduced the noise from the printer combined with soft flag setup there also not any weird resonation from the [Music] printer bambula also have increased touchcreen size to 3.5 in on A1 still not very big size but good enough for daily use the resolution from this screen is very good but a bit of slow refresh late and refresh speed you can feel small visible delay on every operation all the UI layout is straightforward and easy to use A1 also come with a camera on a game TR a little bit of weird angle but with Okay resolution A1 does not produce any noise during idle the noise level for A1 is 6 fet away 3 ft and at a closer distance the electricity consumption during idle and printing I think AMS light combo is another highlight for this printer I was saying that the A1 Mini is a low supplies multicolor printer by Lake of a bit of usability due to build play size at 180 mm now A1 am slide combo with only $100 PR increased compared to A1 Mini makes A1 Mini even more not make sense to go for features like reading bamboo La El information through NFC TXS fom backup function and other features all come with AMS light but we can see AMS light is no longer enclosure space so your fil are directly Expos to moisture the filament do not mer into the PTF tube and send into the exud instead all four tubes are merged to the top of the filament Hub on top the shooter so compared to original AMS the fil and retraction distance have significantly reduced it also means that you will not have the issue with filing jimming on the AMS box at the same time there is no filing weightlifting issue compared to AMS because of the filing run sensor is so close to the extruder your filing will be pring almost every single bit of it so it is a simpler and more eff the system overall but at the same time it is a dowr due to L of enclosure the printer itself takes a bit front and back footprint like all the B linger does with AMS light on the side the actual footprint is a lot bigger than my p1s you could also choose to download bambula official upgrade and mon AMS on top of Gantry a lot of people have test that and there's no major impact to the printing quality but my table is a bit of twoo wobble so I don't think it will work out on me I'll probably just leave it on the side before I started with a regular test print I have been running on print to test one of my roou helper design on A1 I have encountered some of a weird issue I have my printer file leave as default from bamp last slicer for A1 I slic the model and store on micro SD card when I trying to print on a printer the self calibration before every PR seems in a bit weird logic if I select B leveling here it will do the B leveling twice if I don't select the bat leveling it will still do it and then the bat leveling will be performed after The Purge line and continue with the actual printing part without hitting another from 140 celsus deg so my print first layer fails almost every single time I went ah Hadad to upgrade all the frameware and all the issu seems disappear but now I'm end up with a very lowy offset value by default I try to fix it by resetting to the factory and rerun all the calibration things but it did not help I have to change a starting jco found slicer it seems to work this time I have continued to run the first layer Test spring but result does not seems very promising I tend to believe it is something related to the frameware but I can't do anything to help it plus it does not looks horrible I'll probably just continue leave it for now I continue with a calibration Cube this is a little different calibration queue but all the test feature are similar to a regular calibration CU you can see the first layer is still a bit too low all the layer finish looks good these two corners sticking out a bit due to the scene setting the top finish layer looks a bit rough the dimension are within a setable range I continue to slide one Ben sheet with the most default setting from the [Music] slicer the bench looks almost perfect beside the cooling line here compared to default setting benu from p1s with exactly same filament which one do you think is better I think they looks almost identical to me as many of you already know bass ler come with a disadvantage while y- AIS is carrying a BL play moving and stopping rapidly the amount of momentum during high-speed printing will cause printing quality issue also the y- AIS acceleration and printing speed will generally slow on the xais that's one of the reason that y coxy structure is more preferred by many people I plac these two Z wubble test model at opposite side corner of the BL plate so every single layer of the print y AIS will be moved the maximum travel distance on the B plate although I did not increase the speed to the very crazy amount but with with a default speed setting this is still a stress test for the best Slinger now we see a lot of orangey skin looks like effect all across the entire surface I have experienced a very similar result from A1 Mini it only appears on the matap filament with active throw calibration on you can see there are some bad layer finish as a model height increases it looks bad on the Y AIS side but not as bad on the x-axis side let's take a look the one from p1s with exactly same filament the printing tie on the p1s is also shorter compared to A1 let's pick one of each and do a comparison under same light [Music] condition [Music] I continue to try with a silk [Music] filament the print are out pretty [Music] good and it runs very smooth I have replaced nozzle to 0.6 mm and continue with this wise model I also have changed layer height to 0.42 mm I stopped this print halfway I want to mention that this is not because of the printer it's just because 0.42 layer high are not able to reflect a small parameter change from this model so the layer does not perfectly lay on top of each other I continue to print the same model but this time this is not the vice model the planter has also been scaled down the layer height also has changed to 0.3 mm the planter po turned out great this time but due to the layer height you can still see a on a small parameter area all those sharp turn turning into a small hole over here let's continue with the PG filament this model is very easy to print with a pla filament but when you attempt to print with a PG filament it is a bit of a challenging I quickly notice that the balling layer has not sticken well some of the edges are actually curved during the PR but if you look at a bottom layer it actually has some elephant feet so it means the filment were overlaid on the bottom layer the model is acceptable overall but you can find a lot of small defect all over the place I switched to ABS filament with a 0.6 mm nuzzle again this print turn out perfect the ball and layer stick a well and looks cran all the small parameter and layer fish looks absolutely decent I changed to another ABS filament with 0.4 nuzzle I did not put a brims on but even the small perameter part stay on the bu plate with no issue print looks okay overall there are some overhang issue due to very little cooling was turned on for the ABS other than that all the layer looks very cream final thoughts of Bambola A1 I think this will be a popular model on this mid-level budget entry level 3D printer I believe there are many people who cares about if it is best Slinger or not as soon as a printer off a solid value and the price is right people will vot with their money it is also interesting to see that bambula progressively having their printer out and targeting a different price range now I think many of you do a lot of cross shopping and do comparison before buying your first pretty printer now I am not a fanboy from bamboo lab and I don't want to talk about too much of the pros and cons regarding open source and closed Source here today I'm just trying to bring myself as a regular customer who trying to buy their first 3D printer I don't have enough money to spend on $1,000 for a 3D printer when I'm new to this hobit there are a lot of100 to $200 but project entry level machine out there and a lot of a Clipper based highspeed B Slinger around 300 to $350 price range many brands have their core XY machine around $400 to $550 price range going upward you have a pram mk4s and bambula p1s around 7 or $800 price range and A1 Mini with 399 MSRP equipped with a linear rail a food manal guide rail and side biger bu play size it'll make you think those features some additional money for the upgrade but this Price sets very close to those buet coxy machine out there like qu K1 I think this is where it hard to make a decision should I go for a coxm machine with a better speed potential or go for this best linger that has a solid Hardware offer I would like to just mention some of the pro and com first throughout my test and give you some of my thoughts at the end let's talk about Pros first number one it is a very quiet printer there are no rattling sound or high pitch noise during printing all the noise mainly come from the part cooling fan with a little moving sound if you ear is sensitive like me I think this will be biggest reason you're buying this printer number two A1 has a good printing speed forget about a 500 mm per second to have moving speed that kind of marketing slogan thing A1 printing speed is in line or sided better with those best linger currently in the market although it does not have extreme printing speed like a CO XY machine does but it is relatively good printing speed for most print and still return return a good printing quality number three it is relatively easy to set up the machine count is mostly pretty simple the entire setup might take you somewhere around 20 to an hour to start your first print the print itself will run a lot of feature self test and getting ready for you if you are new to 30d printing there might be a little learning curve for you to learn how to use those basic slic setting and learn those turns and settings or if you are buying bamb filament with it and prefer to use a mobile app then you'll probably get one of the most best 3D printing experience out there number four the printer itself is welld designed and with a solid hallway offer the machine overall are highly integrated with a lot of aluminum to improve overall rigidity and stability the entire machine is designed to print fast speed from the ground up the linear rails and full metal rails and wheel setup is a better for high-speed Printing and it will be last longer with a popular maintenance number five the amsi multicolor printing solution is somehow better than original AMS beside there is no enclosure for filament the most multicolor system itself even though produce a lot of filament waste during the color change but it is relatively reliable and I have encountered very little issue with it so far let's talk about accounts now first A1 makes me feel like it's being rushed to the market in order to catch all those holiday season sale Peak I encountered some of the frameware issue during initial test if I use the SD card to store a PR file no matter if I select bad leveling or not it will do the B leveling before print if I select the B leveling it will do B Ling twice when the B leveling was done after The Purge line the printer will directly continue actual printing without increase the nuzzle temperature so the first layer will be almost guaranteed to be failed my AMS SL also have a issue where the slot three always slip and cause PR fail then the frameware has been update twice in the past few days AMS live frameware also being update now all the love larer issue before print has been fixed and my AMS SL issue on slot 3 has been fixed too but new issue has been arise the preset value for Z offset seems a bit too low I have to reset the printer to the factory and redo all the self calibration things again but it did not help so I have to go back to a s setting and change the Z upset value from the starting g code and to make it work correctly it fixed the issue on the file that I slice by myself but if I'm trying to use a bambo mobile app and print through my phone the first layer issu is still there and my first layer test across entire boot play was not pretty number two although A1 could reach 100 Celsius degrees on The Bu play without a fully enclosed bu play area A1 will not be a efficient machine to print high temperature filament like ABS on carbon fiber I have attested a few ABS print doing a printing assignment it has all turned out good printing quality and it does not have a bad adhesion issue at all but we have also seen the bad temperature across a blue PL is somewhere not very evenly distributed I also encounter PG whopping issue for relatively small printing size number three due to the structure of the A1 the entire machine is almost buil with the injection mode in plastic and Custom Fabrication aluminum piece there is no much room for you to make adjustment or upgrade beside those little printable things plus bambula printer is close sourced if you are looking for a first printer that could help you to learn 3D printing and trickling A1 might not be the one but if you are looking for a printer that will return your print after the train with a minimal trickling and mod this is right for you number four the AMS light does not have enclosure so if you live with a human area there might be a problem I think you should have enough information to determine if A1 is Right printer for you at this point I think it really depends on what you are looking for if you are someone who wants buy your first printer and getting into the 3D printing as a hobit and learn all the hardware things and potentially enjoying upgrade and mod your own printer there might be very minimal things you can do with the A1 only out of hand if all you want it's print and you don't care about 30d printer and all the mods and stuff A1 could be the best one in terms of printing quality printing speed and it is also the most easy to use best you're currently in the market thank you guys for watching I'll see you [Music] soon

Channel: SavageLau

Views: 8,435

Keywords: DIY, creator, craft, design, CAD, 3D moding, 3dprinting, 3dprinter, 3dprint, 3dprinted, creality, prusa, ender, ender3, diy, diytool, 3d打印, bambu, bambulab, maker

Id: 43J8pT43RHU

Length: 26min 51sec (1611 seconds)

Published: Fri Dec 29 2023