BAD First Layer Your K1 and K1 Max Printer? Here's how to get the best results.

hey guys welcome to need make it I'm Mike so if  you own a K1 Max or a K1 you've probably had some   trouble getting a good first layer they may look  something like this or maybe something like this   so I'd like to show you what I think the main  cause of this not so great first layer is and   what exactly we can do to get better results  with this printer and with our smaller K1 as   well so stick [Music] around so first up here is  my print bed with no print going whatsoever the   bed is just at room temperature and you can see  that the bed is Warped mainly in One Direction so   let's now raise the bed temperature incrementally  while watching The Straight Edge and we're going   to head all the way up to 100° cus where we  would normally print something like ASA or [Music] [Music] abs and now we can start to see  what is happening and what we need to   be able to compensate for before a  print so at room temperature this   is what the bed warp looks like  and then here is the mesh at 50° C at 60 this is what the bed warp looks like at   80° C this is what it looks like  and at 100° C this is the result now it's not quite that simple it does seem  like there is a few minute period where the   bed shape continues to change after it reaches the  desired temperature whether that's because we have   several dissimilar materials involved or that the  temperature of each of the materials is being held   and that they are now consistent throughout and  that they can settle into a final shape or maybe   a combination of both and that means that the  probing sequence will not be completely accurate   and the bed should be preheated first first and  then we can let it to settle for a few minutes   and then the calibration can be done I don't know  about you but I don't think it's unusual to run   the bed mesh calibration once and then just try  and reuse it over and over again for our prints   the calibration process through the printer's  touchcreen though will heat the bed to 50° C by   default and then it's going to probe the entire  surface and that may be okay for some pla prints   which normally have about 60° C bed temperature  but for petg abs or other high temperature   materials the bed will change shape too much to be  able to get a good first layer so let's see if we   can improve the results of the calibration process  a little bit first so we're going to start with   the 50° C quick mesh which is from the touchscreen  on the printer itself so let's see what that mesh   looks like with all of those default settings so  we have quite a bit of a dip towards the center   and again it is mainly only in One Direction and  now we can run a print to fill the entire bed and   in this case there is no place for a purge so so  with my setup it extrudes a blob in the middle   and I just need to remove that before it gets too  far so this may work fine for pla but I'm running   pet G and the bed temperatures are normally  somewhere around 80° C and that Valley that   we were seeing in the middle is going to shrink  and the bed is going to be a little bit flatter   so we should expect to see some problem areas  there are a few big blobs and I have to give it   a little bit of a pass on the blobs because petg  does like to do this when we have a bit of overe   Extrusion so here is the final result it's not  completely terrible but there are quite a few   areas that didn't fuse and the opposite is also  true in the areas that were extruded too close to   the bill plate and we have these squished layers  so now we're going to switch it up a little bit   and if you have access to your configuration file  you can change the default calibration temperature   from 50° C to 80° C and now we can rerun the  exact same test again and in this case the dip   in the center is going to be nearly gone we have  a a couple of higher spots and lower spots still   but the overall flatness has improved we should  see better overall results but it still may not be perfect and again we have some blobbing  going on we still have a few areas of overe   Extrusion but we also have an overall  Improvement everything is completely connected and now let's take it one step further  this time we're going to preheat the bed and hold   it at 80° C for a few minutes and then we're  going to run that bed mesh calibration also at   80° C we should see a slight change in the mesh  assuming that the shape of the bed does continue   to change just a little bit for this print I made  a mistake of reducing the flow a little bit too   much thinking that I would be over extruding the  entire surface I'm going to peel this one off and   then I'm going to set the flow back to what it  was on the previous two tests and run it again   and this time we are back to overe extruding  or at least our Zed offset needs to be adjusted adjusted so I have adjusted the flow down by  1% and we are able to get this as the final   result it is not quite Perfection but it's  respectable and certainly a big improvement   from where we started so I had some trouble  leaving it as it was I thought I could do a   little bit better and sure enough I was able  to get just a little bit better result I have   pretty close to 99% as far as the quality of  that first layer goes maybe even a little bit   better there's a tiny bit of a low area in here  so I was able to get to this point by not just   preheating for 4 minutes but by preheating for  10 minutes and by doing that it seems to have   settled in a little bit better to its final  shape it then did the probing sequence and   then I was able to get this kind of result  and one more note about this I was able to   adjust the flow down by another half a percent  so that I didn't get any overe Extrusion which   makes sure that I don't have those big blobs  appearing all over my print and I think the   results speak for themselves it's pretty good for  this printer and the warpage that we were dealing with I believe what we're seeing here is that  we have an aluminum plate that is a little bit   too thin for the large size of the printer or  the bed that combined with the rapid heating   is causing the bed to Warp more than what you  might see on some of the other printers now   if we change the printing parameters default bed  temperature to something that's closer to what we   use on a regular basis and just use that mesh and  it's also better to make sure the bed temperature   is held so that the bed stops changing shape as  well I would recommend that creal uses a slightly   thicker aluminum plate here the quality of the  plate that they've used looks really good and   it's nicely machined around the perimeter but  the thickness seems to be a problem now with   technology Chang ing all the time there may also  be other material choices out there that could   be better than aluminum but let me know if you  agree with what I'm saying here or if you think   there's a bit more going on printing the entire  bed surface is pretty extreme and not that common   so how about a way to get even better results  on these printers that's more efficient and more precise so if you've rooted your printer already you'll be  able to implement the next option which I think is   superior but before we get to that make sure that  you subscribe and you like the video and hit that   notification Bell as well so you always know when  a new video is released also making a comment no   matter how short really helps with the YouTube  algorithm and keeps me making content like this   one other point worth mentioning is that normally  we're probing the bed with 6x6 points so 36 total   points it is fairly dense but if the bed is Warped  enough it's going to be assuming the information   between the probed points and it's not going to  be completely accurate if you haven't rooted your   printer yet I'm going to be leaving a link  in the description below showing how to do   this and if you have any trouble you can always  leave a comment down there below and I will help   you to get through it rooting is essentially  unlocking your printer so that we can install   onto it we' normally install Moon raker fluid  and main sale looking down the list we can also   see this one called Clipper adaptive meshing and  purging also called Camp so I've installed this   already and again check the walkth through down  there if you want to be able to do this yourself   so now let's take a couple of parts that are  concentrated in one fairly small area and if   we want to get an accurate mesh before the print  it would typically probe the entire surface but   not anymore with Camp instead what it's going to  be doing is using the information about the part   size from the slicer that info comes from Orca  Slicer in this case and it's called exclude parts   and also label parts so we need to turn those two  features on and exclude Parts is the option that   would allow you to cancel any individual part  during a print and now I'm going to be probing   it only where it needs to be probed and it's  not only quicker but it's going to be far more accurate the mesh tends to look really bad  but if we look at the variation that we're   seeing it is very small and the prob points  are going to be more dense which is going   to give us a better first layer as well  it is still important to make sure that   the bed doesn't change shape like we saw  earlier so I would recommend preheating   the bed as well or if you can program have it  reach the temperature and then pause before probing so here I have three batches of samples  I have one that was using Camp I have one that   was using the entire probed bed surface and then  another one using the entire probed bed surface so   this is the cap setup this has very consistent  results the slot dimension in the middle the   overall dimensions of the outside of the parts and  the looks and the completeness of the first layer   and the next layer on top they all look really  good I would say this has just a tiny amount of   overe Extrusion but it's not much at all so next  up we have the one using the probed bed surface   in advance so I used the saved probed bed surface  and that was probed using the touchcreen on the   printer so I have very inconsistent results here  I have this kind of wafering effect so they're   incomplete prints the opening is too large each  print looks different from the other and I have   one that's actually a perfect example of what to  look out for this one's probably the best example   the first layer was nearly complete it's pretty  good but obviously the bed shape changed a little   bit because the next layer that went on top of  it was not complete at all and you can see the   diameters actually changed a little bit as well  but these were all printed at the same time and   the results from each of these are a little bit  different so obviously the bed shape was changing   during the print and the last set that I have  here is my attempt at adjusting the flow of the   a little bit and that did not work out because  again each print is a little bit different but   it's just far too overe extruded the first layer  was way too squished so before I end this video   I thought I would set up one last test and this  time with the dial indicator we can actually get   a measurement I don't know why I didn't think of  this earlier so right now I have the inch dial   indicator set up for every full Revolution we  have 100,000 of an inch and again I'm going to   heat this up this is at room temperature right now  I'm going to heat it up up to 100° C but this time   I'm going to let it steep for about 10 minutes  and see what kind of measurements we [Music] [Music] get all right 10 minutes has pass actually  a little bit over 10 minutes and it looks   like it's stabilized at 21 or 22,000 sub an  inch which converts to about .53 mm and if   you compare that to the thickness of a layer  height which is maybe about2 or a little bit   less that's a pretty dramatic number for  a printer like this so so hopefully this   shows why it is so important to preheat this  particular bed for at least 10 minutes so far   the Adaptive meshing is working really well but  there is one time where it's giving me a little   bit of trouble and that is when I'm printing  something that is as big as the entire build   plate and that's pretty rare R but what's going  to happen is it won't have a spot for The Purge   so it's going to put a blob right in the center  and you just need to make sure that you remove   that blob before it gets too far along otherwise  it's going to give the printer some trouble and   it may end up somewhere within your print one  other note about this printer because it is so   large the frame could be prone to more twisting  so if you tend to move your printer around a   lot it could also impact your mesh it really  is best to probe before each of your prints   unless you don't move your printer and you  always print at the exact same temperatures   the best long-term solution to avoiding some  of these problems that we've seen here is to   have a thicker aluminum plate which is going to  be machined and precise but if we don't want to   spend any money we can make sure that we have  the right bed temperatures when we create our   mesh and on top of that we can also use Camp  to ensure that we are far more accurate with   the mesh right before we print and if you're  already using this please let me know in the   comment section down there below how you like it  so I hope you found this video helpful and thank   you as always to each of my patrons for helping  to support this Channel and making videos like   this possible and if you want to help to support  this channel as well I have left a link in the   description below and you can also consider  joining us on our bu Discord server where   we discuss everything 3D printing related take  care everybody and we will see you on the next [Music] one

Channel: NeedItMakeIt

Views: 33,359

Keywords: Level the bed, how to level your bed, level the mesh bed, mesh bed leveling, easy way to level your bed, easy way to level your mesh bed, level the bed on the K1, Level the bed on the Creality K1, Best way to level the K1 Bed, Level the K1 Max Bed, The mesh on the K1, Mesh on the K1, Mesh on the K1 Max, Flatten the bed on the K1, Flatten the bed on the K1 Max, Level and Flatten the Bed on the K1, How to mesh bed level on the K1

Id: 8PEsPLDxt-c

Length: 14min 27sec (867 seconds)

Published: Sat Feb 17 2024