Anycubic Vyper 3D Printer Review

bud what did we get via the ups it's a large box a large box for a large cat well all right i'm done i'm done with you now bud i don't need you anymore leave the shot this is a new printer from any cubic they sent it to me so i could do a review of it so i think this is the third any cubic feature i've looked at okay so this printer apparently is self leveling i think it uses a pressure sensor on the nozzle and when they told me that i asked them well what do you do if there's some filament on the end of the nozzle because that would affect the positioning of it you know there's a little bit of dried filament on the end what is this it's like kind of like a robot arm or something oh it's a detachable screen that's kind of cool any cubic viper oh that's weird the build platform is weird it's got a kind of a texture to it when i find myself in times of trouble mother mary comes to me speaking words of wisdom i'm gonna get you jeff bridges now bud is eating the egg carton that that 34 printer came in [Music] now this looks like a bigger build platform versus the last any cubic i looked at oh it's a magnetic flexible plate as well can you hear that you can't feel the texture but you can hear it ah that's cool you know i think yeah this is the first printer i've worked with that has a flexible plate at least here but you're making too much extraneous noise i'm gonna banish you to the world of pagan now it looks like they have the same kind of extruder as before well not the extruder necessarily the the gearing that actually drives the filament so i guess this would plug in right here let's take a look at the accoutrement pack that's a fancy french word that means accessories some pla oh an extra nozzle and a memory stick converter these are going to be the metric bolts that actually attach the frame to the base oh gee just what i needed another usb cable generic sd card oh some zip ties power cable and i'm guessing this arm is probably for the screen so i'm guessing that these are threaded the holes and that's what the screws will attach to oh it's just a tray what is oh it's it's got tools in it that's so cool it's got a little flush cutter a whole set of oh darn it wrenches and a nozzle cleaning uh thing that's so cool this little tray i thought it was a power supply first oh wait the power supply is right next to it well i can use these tools to put it together whoa check out that funky pattern for the heat and heat bed easier to do if i had a second pair of human hands not kitten hands because hitting hands aren't very useful one thing that i don't like with this assembly i think i had the same problem with the previous printer as well is that it doesn't doesn't really feel like there's a good safe way to lay down a part like that and i know you only really need to do this for the assembly but still you know maybe something they could do is they could have a piece of the foam break away like the foam could break away in a certain shape to create the supports you need i mean i can just kind of put the foam in here it's like oh break yeah put a perforation in the foam so the foam is the right height to do this you know to give it support that would be kind of like a free thing they could could do it's like how many times you buy like a power strip right and it's like it's like in a little back you know package or a piece of cardboard it's like would it really kill them to print the pattern of the mounting screws on the cardboard so you can use it to mount it okay there's a lot of connectors underneath this plate here that aren't connected to anything like that oh like that that's kind of cool i guess that's why they include these really small flush cutters it's because you have to remove these zip ties wiring connect all those wires their corresponding ports by the label respectively okay that could be um that could be communicated better are they labeled oh yeah this one's labeled zl for z left or zed left if you're british oh that's the zed left switch oh it's optical that's cool i mean i've you know been using 3d printers for many years and i've built 3d printers from scratch so none of this stuff really confuses me but like this makes sense like oh look they've got a they've got a header here which breaks out this cable to the motors and then this probably goes to the extruder head see i mean i can figure this stuff out but it might not be as obvious for a layman or woman a layperson a layperson on a ley line listening to layla okay the instructions did mention this is like make sure that it goes under the beam because obviously as this goes down that would not work okay so they did label the switches but the pictures are very small and they've got red text on a black background which is bad design so this should be like a whole page with larger photos and text you can actually read so that's something that they should improve if you are moving axes on an inert printer do it very slowly because if you do it quickly you'll actually create a current and possibly fry things it's kind of crazy like if sometimes if you like really wretch it the printer will turn on it'll actually create enough back current to turn on the electronics after cutting the bottom tie please shake the platform to confirm whether the printer platform is shaking up and down oh i see they've got those rubber wheels going along the channel so what they're talking about is tightening up um this hex piece here the spacer to the nut but it feels pretty good to me so i don't think i'm going to mess with that oh this must be for the belt the um what would that be the y-axis belt neat looking printer kind of looks like a decepticon also the battery on this 4k sony handycam sucks you know back in the old day when we had the trv 510 or whatever it is the yeah the trv510 look at this battery look at this giant battery i bought this battery in the year 2000 this battery would let you shoot for like eight to ten hours so basically i said all day and the thing is 21 years later it still holds like three or four hours of charge it's nuts oh it's a good thing i checked this thing is actually shipped at the 230 volt setting yeah we need to set this to american volts they're made out of bacon so the robot arm turned out to be the filament holder um yeah so it looks like oh they have a filament run out sensor here again it looks like yep so the filament goes here into there into the extruder um i don't like this because look how much larger it makes the printer's uh footprint now you have the filament be here go down like that you know maybe maybe i'll build that so apparently this one uses a pressure sensor for leveling all the instructions are in english and mandarin auto leveling the probing will begin okay use a tool to touch printer nozzle to calibrate leveling sensor okay touch printing nozzle let's oh there we go oh it probably was reading its zero null value and then when i touched it it's like oh something changed i assume that's how it worked so i'm just now noticing this thing has a much higher uh z build volume than the other printer i was looking at although that also means this process takes longer although most cases you wouldn't be printing something that highly i wouldn't so the nozzle's only going to be probably it's going to be parked about here so it's not going to take this long to go down we wait for the mating season of the whales it will be a splendiferous thing to see oh wait but that was the that was the switch z0 with the optical switch it's preheating the nozzle oh it's probably so it takes into a into account the expansion of the metal and how that would affect the sensor i'm guessing looks like some ooze is coming out of the nozzle that was something else i thought about like you would have to make sure that the nozzles wiped because if there was like you know string solid strings of ooze coming out the end of it that would affect the z setting oh it's moving again is it not gonna do a wipe it still says it's preheating so you notice how it's doing two uh so it's doing one path so then it's doing a slow pass a secondary pass to verify the the settings of the first pass so i'm guessing well yeah it's going to be setting up a mesh level so i would think that internally the firmware would store the mesh settings so you should only have to do this once look bud i let you back in so you should be good oh there he goes into the box all right filament okay filament in i will say this uh touch screen is way more responsive than the touch screen on the last any cubic that i uh looked at um the software is faster and the touch well the other one i think was a resistive touch screen is this one capacitive well it's heating up but in the meantime we can hack the planet we should be able to pull this yeah so we can pull this but what are you doing i know what you want you want to eat the the straps on my mst3k hoodie well you're not gonna get the those straps so i'm just gonna get the filament all the way up to the nozzle while it heats up see that way we don't have to use the motor so that's kind of handy we just yeah we just released you know they've got a tensioner here so you can release the grip on the filament and just stick it all the way through one nice thing about bud is he hasn't realized quite yet how high he can actually jump it's kind of like no neo when you're ready you won't have to like he hasn't figured out that he could easily jump up up onto the kitchen counter yet this could burn you and then you will become dark man cat and then you'll you'll run around yelling julie okay 220's got to be hot enough i'm going to push the filament in button yeah there we go here's the extrusion oh it's just it just keeps going all right filament stop this sd card had a cura on it and also some configuration files for the viper normally i use simplify3d however um i was reading up on this printer and do you remember the previous fdm any cubic printer that i took apart i commented that it had an 8-bit microcontroller driving it and ironically the microcontroller driving the screen was a cortex m0 no actually no it was a cortex m3 driving the screen and i was like well that's kind of funny they have a much bigger processor on the screen than they do actually driving their printer well this new printer has an m3 processor so it's actually 32 bit which means it would also have floating point with m3 so it should print a lot better anyway the reason i went on that tirade is because i want to make sure i'm using the right settings for this printer so we can see it work at its maximum speed all right so we need to import those files viper okay let's do pla okay now we have a custom profile for the pla i'm going to print one of these caps for my single-handed controllers let's see layer height infill why can't i change the layer height a brim or a raft ah we don't need that oh this is probably because we created that that or imported that custom profile i'll do 0.2 i think that should work save to removable media which i guess would be the sd card sd card slot is right on the front that's handy oh it's upside down though uh analog cap g code i guess that would be it print yeah i like this uh like i like the orientation of this screen it uh i don't know just handy it's also much larger than the other touchscreen so yes compared to the touchscreen on the um megapro this one is much nicer when i do these videos it's because a company sends me a product but i don't actually take any money for it i basically just take a free product it heats up pretty fast that only took about not even two minutes i was thinking about this like again most of the time you're going to be printing at a low level which means this arc is not going to be too severe so if you put this up top that means conversely most of the time you are going to have this big loop of plastic and this might tend to happen which wouldn't be good to create like a pinch point especially these plastics um they tend to get brittle and fracture over time oh it started okay yeah so this must have the tmc whatever drivers what's those what's that called oh yes the tmc2209 so it's a more advanced stepper driver it's actually the same kind i put into that flash forge all you can really hear is the fan the motors themselves are silent you hear the fan and then you hear the rubber basically moving on the rails um it seems like i mean i would think it could be faster the print speed i mean although again uh we got a cortex m3 which means you've got floating point so the maths as the british say are going to be a lot better yeah this texture i haven't felt this in a printer before i've never felt this way before um i make sense because like by having a slightly rough surface the first layers of plastic would fuse around it acting well not kind of like it would be like a mechanical retention then you'd think and but yeah okay i guess the inverse of that or the problem with that is that it would stick too well which i guess is why it's a flexible plate yeah here's the surface of the any cubic mega pro see it's got like kind of like this well this is borosilicate glass and looks like they've etched a texture into the glass this actually works really well i don't have to do any additional adhesive or glue it just sticks it just works i mean i was obviously to make sure it's clean of dust check it out you can see the toothed gear moving [Music] that portion there the fine teeth that's what's actually gripping the filament and the gear the gear spurs down here that's actually uh interacting with another gear on the other side so there's actually two gears that mesh when this pinches together so that's actually a cool part of the design the fact that the the um the compression wheel on the other side is synchronized with the drive gear i did have trouble with this um extruder type when i was working with the uh mega pro in that when you feed the filament through sometimes it's hard to actually get it through this nozzle so if the filament has any sort of deviation to it it'll bump up against the edge and not go through and i actually fixed it by going in and chamfering it out with a v-bit uh i i think another potential issue you could have with that if you've got a really narrow aperture especially an aperture that's enclosed that you can't get at is when you retract the filament you pull the filament out of the head and it comes back you're going to have like a little bit of a a blob on the end like a randomized blob which is probably going to be wider than the diameter of the filament that also might have trouble passing through of course you could just pull this out and cut it you know pull off this tube okay so this is running at 4 800 millimeters a minute i think i could go a lot faster than that uh kira said what 22 minutes this is 38 at 17 minutes so i don't think that estimate is gonna i don't think they're not gonna make that ship date this totally is like a decepticon logo right coronation star scream this is bad comedy megatron is that you here's a hint it's done took 30 minutes so it's eight minutes slow yeah that really adhered well i guess you pretty much have to do this this could be like an ice cube tray kind of thing she even took the ice cube trays out of the freezer kind of tricky because the mat as soon as the magnet catches see it just goes straight down oh the print quality is very good look at that that's a really good print just look how shiny it is shiny what i'm going to try next i'm going to try setting this up as a printer in simplify 3d and then i will print it again i decided to take a look at the cura profile i thought it would be uh xml but it's not even got some binary stuff going on here viper so the viper is technically in any cubic i3 mega it's not actually a lot of custom data here i don't see why i couldn't just set this up in simplify 3d i could just modify the i3 mega profile that i already have simplify 3d is cool i just kind of wish they'd make a new version of it already yeah let's see any cubic i3 mega let's see if we can save as new enter a name okay any cubic viper all right let's see so we're going to change the build volume and some other things then we'll see if it works okay here's my modified any cubic viper print speed one up to 180 millimeters a second all right that's too aggressive i'm gonna i'm gonna go 9600 which should be 120 millimeters a second uh okay scripts this part i'm not sure about these are the scripts well those are the i3 mega scripts all right let's add a part and try it out i'm gonna print it to the sd card again i like how liberal these printers are with the sd card removal and reinsertion it's like you can just do it over and over and it just it just works it just auto you know auto mounts which is nice uh yeah all right so this is the file that's generated by simplify3d it's going to have a different startup and ending procedure oh man i really need to schedule a haircut the pdf instructions are included on the sd card they are easier to read than the printed instructions that came with the unit you still have stuff here like the um the the cable instructions it's i mean if you zoom in i guess it makes more sense it's still not exactly a winning design so you know maybe like put a stroke around this text black stroke oh i forgot to put that zip tie in like i said it makes sense you have two forms of strain relief then see i couldn't i couldn't see this in the um in the printed version but looking at the pdf i can see it and the nice thing about the pdf is that it then continues on to more advanced setup measures and also how to get started using kira so i realized that the starting g code in the ending g code does change based off of your base printer via the you know the any cubic i3 mega or like ultimaker or whatever so i just copied these codes and put them into simplify 3d here oh look look look the the the tray is even magnetized oh the tray even has little magnets in it watch watch cloak see that that's great didn't notice before there's a bright led lighting up the part that's kind of cool i can see some blobbing on the walls so i think i the settings in here are better than the ones i created in simplify 3d again i didn't change anything i just renamed it so i think what i'll do is i'll go through all the settings uh the you know the specific machine specific settings in the profile and kira for this machine and i'll copy it over to simplify 3d but now that i have two bass lines i can basically dial it in and make the profile what i want it to be i mean yeah this is a this seems like a very nice printer i mean what is yeah 350 dollars i want to say i don't use 3d printers as a hobby so i am perfectly fine spending the money on good ones i mean i should make a gear for crying out loud uh yeah so i think if you're you know if you're serious about 3d printers unless you're on a super tight budget i think it's you know you can get them to sub 200 range and any cubic even has that but for a few dollars more you get a lot more printer i mean look at this build i think it's the largest build volume of any printer i have oh no what did i do no i don't want to stop printing so that touch screen is almost too responsive now oh look you can turn the light on and off i believe it is a resistive touch screen but it's a much higher quality one than the anycubic megapro simplify 3d i'm gonna try hooking it up directly with the usb cable that's interesting uh keyri was open and kira captured the usb port as soon as i connected it also when i turned off kira simplify 3d was not able to communicate with the printer so yeah i guess uh i guess i i'm going to use kira so let's go to print via usb so i've got like a little cylinder here i'm going to try printing it quickly oh okay so this is giving me all the communication it's going to heat up oh i could jog it too i have like three printers hooked up to this computer with usb then i have the anycubic mega pro that's over on this side of the room so i've got an sd card running that and there's nothing nothing changes on the screen that would indicate a usb connection guess it doesn't really need to i it probably means you can't change the speed on the screen while it's running either i guess we could try well yeah but there's nothing on the screen see it's already getting commands so again this is cura over usb kind of go through like phases of filament like i was in a big gtech phase i used to buy the amazon basics but i don't do they even make that anymore so then i got into the gtech phase uh but now i'm into hatchbox so really what i look for is whatever filament is nicely wound on the spool i also bumped this up to 120 millimeters a second sometimes these screens just act as a like a dummy g-code reader they'll use a separate tx rx serial port on the main microcontroller and they'll just send and receive g-code basically like they'll say oh you know they'll they'll ping it hey what's the temperature and then it'll respond to the temperature this one seems to be more tightly integrated although it is kind of weird that there's nothing on the screen as it's getting well aside from the fact that it's showing the temperature there's really no indication like you know usb mode or connected to pc or something like that like what happens if i yeah i mean i can go into these menus still [Music] does this work it does yeah you can see the layer change seam there aside from that it's pretty good i mean it just yeah it's a big stack of layers i wonder if that blobbing that we saw was this being randomized across the part although this i think could still be smaller oh we do get a print finished message on the screen in usb mode oh the light just turned off i'm going to print something kind of larger and more complex i think i'm going to adjust the ending g code to raise the print head a little bit higher when it's done because you know when you put the bed you know if you if you use removable bed you put it back in place you know it's easier to line it up here if the head's out of the way all right i'm going to print a larger piece that has supports it's going to be at 0.3 millimeter layer height so this of course are a coarser print quality but i want it to print quickly so we'll see how it turns out so i'll be back in a few minutes well like an hour you know that reminds me like editing editing footage like this where it's like oh you know ben was gone for an hour but from the perspective of the person watching no time passed at all like what if we're in a simulated universe but every every quark length of time that you know the frame rate of the universe what if every frame takes a hundred years in some alien computer like we wouldn't know the difference because we are programs in that simulation well okay yes if we were if we were programs in the simulation not brains in a jar well even then maybe we would perceive it as being the normal passage of time but yeah imagine it's a simulated universe and that we are programs in the simulation not brains and jars so you could say oh it takes a hundred years to render one you know quark frame i'm sorry not a quark frame a plank a plank frame of this simulation our minds being programmed would only notice when something changed kind of like pausing an emulator so yeah who knows maybe maybe 25 000 eons occurred while i was giving this this uh explanation of that it's kind of you know it's kind of weird to think about because you know everyone thinks like oh you know if you think about simulated universe you think about the matrix and that oh this has to work with biological organisms it has to you know run at full speed it's like no it necessarily wouldn't have to run a full speed like think of it like a pixar movie right like you got a pixar movie what is it like two days for every frame right kind of like that but then when you play it back it looks like it's full speed so the same things yeah your your program of your mind it only you know it gets it gets the it gets the ping it gets the edge that says oh a new frame is ready and then you process it and then you continue and yeah we wouldn't know the difference kind of crazy to think about okay i i'm just wasting time you know or eons of time according to my theory well that's if the universe is simulated i guess it might be the thing is how would we know how would we know you know from our perspective we couldn't really tell also when it did the bed leveling you know is that i assume that's in the firmware it would be a mesh because it took all those points then i wonder it's because it's using these if i had to guess it's probably using these limit switches these optical limit switches to know where the base z is and then it's adjusting the z height as it runs based off of the mesh that it took which i assume would be stored in memory but then that begs the question if they're using a cortex m3 i don't believe those have eprom so it must have a separate eprom for storing those settings or it could be using a non-volatile memory flash controller program to update its own a certain area of its own memory as flash because those those arms don't actually have a dedicated eprom in them like other microcontrollers do but they do have mvm however the mvm you can't rewrite it as many times wow i'm really getting off into the weeds here well anyway uh i'll be back in about 50 trillion plank times see you then oh i know why it makes me think of transformers because it looks like optimus prime's head i don't know if that's something with disease oh i had one more thought with the simulated universe and plank time or plank distance which is kind of the same thing well planck time is plank no wait no yeah plank time is how long it takes light to move one plank length there's like this thought experiment about like things exceeding the speed of light which could very well be the the frame rate of the universe which would explain a lot actually would explain the limitations or why it's a constant it would definitely explain that oh here's something to think about like let's say you're like oh i want to transmit information faster than the speed of light so let's say i want to transmit information from earth from the earth to mars and okay this is a really stupid example but like let's say the the planets weren't rotating around the sun right let's say they're static in space which i guess they could be so the person's like okay i'm gonna make this rod that's like mars is 227.6 million miles from earth i didn't realize mars was that far away well anyway okay so let's say you made a rod that was 200 million miles long and when you're like okay i'm gonna have this rod and i'm gonna move the rod back and forth and i'm going to use that to physically transmit data so it's like oh but you know so i can the rod is 200 million miles long so if i move the rod one millimeter on earth it'll move one millimeter on mars instantaneously therefore transmitting data faster than the speed of light however that doesn't work because when you move something when an object moves it's done in compression waves and those waves guess how fast they work that's right the speed of light so if you did have this aforementioned rod that was 200 uh 200 million miles long assuming you had the you you had the force to push it one millimeter which would probably be very difficult but let's just say you had the ability to push it one millimeter the rod would actually have a compression wave where it's its change would cascade across his entire length at the speed of light like kind of like a water bed but at a very long distance so the compression wave of movement would travel at the same speed of as radio waves do which is also the speed of light so actually that's a fairly compare compelling argument for the universe being simulated it would explain a lot of cruel ironies like how as a middle-aged man it's easier to grow hair everywhere except for the top of your head ah there we go oh that peeled off quite easily probably because it's all cooled down weird it's kind of like a pattern i don't know if you can see that in the light that's interesting it looks pretty good i can see the chamfers and everything yeah nice yeah once the bed is cool it just pops right off so that's that's good to know so i'm helping a friend of mine um with their bar they want to make an atari bar so i figured why not use this printer to make some parts so let's try removing the filament filament remove all right let's see how easy or hard this is to do okay the extruder's up to temperature i'm gonna just do it the same way where i'm gonna basically open it up and then just pull it out let's see if it gets oh yeah that got past the rubicon there i used a historical term uh just fine so we're gonna print a facsimile of an atari 2600 switch one of the front panel switches so i'm going to load in some black filament i'm going to put it through the filament uh sensor i wonder if that actually can detect the rotation of the filament or if it only detects um if it's there or not all right i'm just gonna cram it right through all right we are printing these uh faux atari switches um let's see what's the speed i think it's uh 9 600 millimeters a minute but yeah um compared to the uh any cubic megapro this was a lot easier to load and unload the filament zero production value i'm filming the screen that's basically what it's going to be yeah so my friend he's got this at his bar so this is under the tap area and then there's actually uh wood grain and and ridges out here so it looks like the face of an atari 2600 so we're basically 3d printing switches in a fake cartridge slot to uh make this look more like a console they're done i'm going to pull them off the table see and release them hey that came off pretty easy didn't finish too long ago the table's still warm right and then right is that what you're thinking that's good okay so i cut these chipboard patterns on my laser for the mounting holes and then we've got our 3d printed switches and then we'll use pla glue to put well we'll paint this of course but put the switches in place so yeah look at that then the cartridge slot will go here and there'll be three more switches on the right but they're printing at the moment so uh yeah what do you think brad i think it looks great ben yes so i just hooked up this printer and i'm already using it to make projects for people because i don't waste time i'm printing a much larger piece now for the uh faux atari bar thing and uh yeah this is a really nice flat first layer that's being laid down here it looks pretty good one thing i noticed with this um pei surface which i believe is what this is um yeah you can flex it and make the part pop off but if you wait for the surface to become completely cool like if i let this print overnight and take it off in the morning the part seems to release from this pei material very very easily because normally something this large and flat unlike glass would be fairly difficult to remove so yeah we'll see how easily this removes once these pieces are done printing in four hours okay printing has finished the total time is four hours and 50 minutes yeah i was at a christmas party don't worry our uber back home look at that that just came off like nothing that's so cool like that's pretty awesome how easily these parts come apart off this magnetic bed i am i'm impressed check out that cool texture on the bottom see normally a part like this with so much flat surface area would be quite difficult to remove from a platform but that just came off with no effort basically so that goes like that so that's the faux cartridge slot for the atari pretty cool nice okay i printed a part that i use for my left-handed xbox one controllers this part sometimes i have problems with with glass because it's got little slits where attack switches fit through but when you print it with glass the bottom layer tends to get a little too compressed and therefore uh the slits might be sealed oh look at that you can see them well actually oh there you go yeah oh yeah the slits are nice and open cool well i'll just uh keep printing some test pieces and we'll see we'll see what else this printer is good at i'm doing a fairly large print here it's a control panel for a pinball prototype machine anyway this one is just under four hours so we'll see how it turns out but hopefully this nice pei bed will make removing it from the bed a snap while we wait for that to print here's a look at the atari bar that we just worked on as you can see it's not quite done it still needs a few details and graphics but i think you get the idea it's a very unique bar with lots of beers on tap and here's a large print wow it just comes right off like nothing let's see how easily the support removes the top surface is pretty loose but these edges need a little love of course the support material is created by the slicer doesn't really have anything to do with the printer but yeah just amazed how easily that bed releases pieces releases pieces e.t loves them yeah look at that pretty cool the any cubic viper i really like this printer i like the pei bed how it's magnetic the nice touch screen i appreciate the advanced stepper motor drivers and the fact that the thing runs off a 32-bit micro processor now all right well if you're interested in one of these i'm gonna have links in the description below and they're having a sale between now and i believe christmas so you can grab one for yourself but i would definitely say this is a big step up from the previous any cubic fdm printer i reviewed which was the mega pro this one's pretty cool

Channel: Ben Heck Hacks

Views: 16,888

Keywords: anycubic, vyper, 3D printer, atari 2600, simulated universe theory, filament, cats

Id: Kk7CQp2wgHE

Length: 39min 2sec (2342 seconds)

Published: Wed Dec 15 2021