Anycubic - Photon Mono + Wash & Cure 2.0 - Unbox and Setup

hey guys welcome back to another 3d printing video and today we got a and a cubic combo of a photon mono resin printer with a washing cure station so in this video we're going to unbox them print some models with the photon and then use the cure and wash to process them so hopefully you guys enjoyed this video let's get [Music] started [Music] [Music] all right so if you've been resin printing you know what kind of process there is to finish up the model with curing and cleaning and things like that so i think this larger box here is the printer itself so we'll start with it and i think the best way to open these things is from the bottom so you guys can see it's plastic wrap and there's a lot of soft foam all around so on the very top here we do have a manual and it's kind of like the basics of you know how to get started so that's one thing about resin printers is they are quite simple to use and not very complicated to figure out so it looks like we got a box with accessories and there are a few things in there we'll go through them here in a second so i'm going to flip this upside down then we'll take the bottom part out first so you guys can see what that looks like looks like there's a metal plate here with some venting and there are no feet looks like there's just plastic and that's what it sits on all right let's flip it over now we can pull off the other layers let's see i guess this comes up let's pull the hood out also lots of foam so good packing so inside the hood here we have more accessories which includes our build plate and also the vat which is the tub where the resin goes in that looks like it for this thing and also our cover which is in this yellow and this thing helps prevent uvs from getting in and out of the printing area so the tub is plastic the frame of it but it does feel quite strong and durable we got nice markings on the inside you guys maybe can see and a pour spout here on one of the ends a really nice one actually the build plate itself is all metal aluminum looks like and it is tapered which is nice because you're not going to have residual resin just sitting there and doing nothing and it is kind of like a textured rough finish on it so hopefully it sticks really well and it feels like it will so let's see what's in this accessory box we got the power adapter and it is 12 volts 4 amps with a reasonably long cord we get some gloves which is important to protect yourself some filter strains looks like five of them and these will come in use when we do clean up and pour the unused resin back into the container we also get a pretty large spatula that's semi-sharpened and also another spatula which is plastic and the reason you have two is this one is for scraping things off of the sheet here and this won't damage it while the metal one is for breaking the models loose from the build plate so we also get a face mask some allen wrenches and an after sales card and the last thing here is we get a thumb drive and this is what we're going to use to bring the files in and there's probably a test file on here and other things like the slicer all right so putting the printer together is quite simple you only have a few parts but before we can do anything we need to raise this arm here the z-axis up that way we can get underneath it so let's go ahead and grab our power adapter flip this thing around and you guys can see our power cord plugs right into here and on the right side of the printer we can see we have the power switch here and the usb port next to that so let's go ahead and power it on and our main screen is lit up let's take off this little plastic protector now you guys probably can't see very well but i'm just going to go to tools and then move z and just go up and it is raising so there is a protective film right here where it's covering the lcd screen itself so i'm going to go ahead and peel that off and so the tub here just slides right underneath here these two brackets on the sides and then there's two little twist knobs here that lock it in and just like that that's where the tub goes and then our build plate slides into here and this twisty knob bolt locks it in so this bolt doesn't have to come out all the way just as a clamp it clamps it down and then you can pull it out but yeah very simple and pretty straightforward and that's pretty much everything that has to do with hardware with a resin printer pretty much anyone can figure out pretty quick how to use one but the parts that make resin printing a little more challenging is actually the slicing and then the processing and this is where the wash and cure comes in so we're going to start up right here in a second but before we do let's go ahead and unbox the washing cure and we'll go through the process of starting a print and then processing it all right and so here we have the washing cure 2.0 so yeah it comes in a similar box a little bit smaller let's open it from the bottom again all right so we got a very similar packaging flip it around so it looks like we have a box here with some accessories in it pull this foam up so this is the bottom you guys can see we got a similar design with the same steel plate here on the bottom all right so again looks like we're using a very similar kind of lid it is shaped a little different than the printer itself so under here we can see what the washing cure consists of and this is going to be my first time using a washing cure so i might say a few things that are not completely correct but i will try to do the best i can here we do have a nice instruction manual on how to use it pretty much step by step so it looks like we get a container here and i'm guessing this is where you're gonna keep your alcohol because it looks like it does seal tightly let's take this foam off here so yeah we can see here what the base of the washing cure looks like looks like we have some uv lights here a gear here that's motorized so let's check out what's in this container so there's a box inside and the box includes the power adapter which is a 12 volt 3 amps and looks like there's a whole basket in here this is where we're going to put our models in and we also get this shiny reflective like a mirror sheet and it looks like it fits right here so maybe this is where it goes and there's two sides to it and there's like a more rose gold look and then the blue so i'm not sure which side needs to go up and here's probably the most interesting thing is this container here has like a little mixing propeller inside and it's built into it and you can just spin it up and it has a couple magnets looks like underneath and i think the magnets okay yeah you can yeah they're definitely interacting with the base so it's magnetic completely between the two parts so the base uses magnets to spin up the propeller inside the container very cool and i guess our basket just lowers right in there with our model and what's cool about this is that you can use multiple times the same alcohol rinsing the parts after you print them so in this box we do have a few more things looks like another bracket for something and a turntable okay so this is probably going to be for the cure you pull this off and then you put the turntable on here and it falls right in very clever so after you wash it you just cure it and that's the whole process of this thing and also in the bag we get some allen wrenches a bearing and an after sales card all right so let's take a closer look at the photon here so we've got a really nice yellow cover here and that's to protect it from uv rays go ahead and take that off and it is one piece very solid i like the construction so you can see the build construction on the z-axis is pretty heavy duty and everything is metal here this part here is plastic but that doesn't really do much and we do have a linear rail you guys can see the bearing there very nice solid piece of aluminum here got the lead screw going down and the motor is inside and down there we have an optical sensor and that's for the z-axis and stop switch so the whole bottom base here is metal very nice metal brackets here the tub is all plastic but that should be fine and our build plate as we saw earlier also metal and nice that it's tapered to the right of the printer we have the power switch and the usb port to the right we just have venting the back is also venting power cord and we do have some kind of sensor here and i think this is for the cover so this might have something to do if you raise the cover it might not print but we'll check that out and on the front here we have a nice 2.8 inch touchscreen display with the nice graphics and a photo mono logo underneath and i do like the overall build construction of it all right so for the next part what we need to do is a level of this build platform and so we're gonna need to remove the tub pull it out for now grab the provided allen wrench and we're going to loosen these four bolts for the build plate so once you loosen them it's going to just kind of move around up and down and side to side so and the reason we want it loose is because we're going to lower our z axis down to level the build platform so i'm going to use this reasonably thick quality control piece of paper here as my leveling base and so we're going to go into tools then we're going to go to move z axes and we're going to click on the home button i don't know if you guys can see any of that maybe now you can but yeah there's a home button here we're going to click on that and that's going to lower the z-axis down and it's just going to fall right where it needs to go and so right now this is home but since our build plate is loose it can go up down you know side to side so what you want is you want it to sit flat kind of press it down just a little bit and tighten these four bolts on the sides and the reason you want to put some pressure down on the build plate not a lot of pressure just so it's flat it's because you want it to be even when you tighten it up so yeah simple as that now we have a nice little gap between the screen and the build plate and the reason you want a little gap is because you have the film here in between and you want to leave a little room for that plus the first layer so after you tighten this then you're gonna go back and click set z to zero and basically that's just going to put in the memory that this is where the start point is so if we click on that it's going to ask us we want to set it yes enter and now we are finished with the bed leveling and yeah that was not very hard and pretty simple as you guys saw so let's go ahead and check the lcd panel here by going into tools and clicking the detection button here so this is testing out the top of the screen make sure it works the lcd and the uv lights so we have a few options we can test let's just go with what it's got click next and this is what it's going to draw out and hopefully you guys can see we have that pattern there okay so that was only for six seconds let's do 30 seconds and let's try another pattern here click next so now it's in the middle and you guys can maybe see the type of uv lamps that they have in there and these are actually called matrix parallel kind of like an optical way of spreading the light and it has like these little bubble balls spread the uv light evenly but yeah it looks like everything is working the lcd is working and the uv lights are operating so we do have another one let's see what that one looks like that our curiosity okay so that's the whole screen wide open so yeah all right so that looks good so let's set our tub back in here and we'll tighten it up so from here on we're pretty much ready to do our first print so let's go ahead and grab our thumb drive that was included we'll plug it into the side of the printer here and it does have a little light on it and we'll see if there's anything on it so we're going to click on print and sure enough there is a file on there called test so i guess we're going to print that one now before you get all excited and you know start printing you need to take in consideration the dangers of resin printing which mostly is fumes and then getting resin on your skin and stuff like that so so make sure you're in a well-ventilated area like i'm in my garage right now and there's plenty of air going through here because resin in itself is pretty stinky but what's even more smellier and stinkier is when we're going to be processing with the alcohol in the washing cure so yeah just keep in mind that safety's first wear the gloves that were included when you're handling resin and also a mask so you don't you know breathe in the particles now before you can print anything you obviously need resin and most resin printers don't come with resin so you will have to buy that separately so don't forget about it so here we have some anacubic resin and it is in translucent green so this should be quite interesting and this is just normal resin you know you can buy any brand pretty much it's the 405 nanometer wavelength so there's nothing too special about you know using certain resins some might be more better quality than others but so we're going to mix the resin up just a little bit we don't want to shake it like crazy because we're going to put a bunch of air bubbles in it and we don't want that we just want to lightly mix it without agitating it too much now at this point i normally don't wear my gloves because i'm not coming in contact with resin at all i'm just going to pour it in and then you know close the bottle so i know if you guys can see but on the top we do have some markings here so if you want to know you know how far down you are but i'm just going to go about halfway in the tub that usually works out pretty good and check out that translucent green that looks pretty cool all right that should be plenty there all right so i wanted to get you guys all closer so you can see but yeah we're just going to click on the test file here and then we're going to click play and it should start okay so it's not starting because it says that the door is open and what it's talking about is this cover so that sensor in the back that we saw earlier is actually a sensor for this cover so unless you have it covered it's not going to do anything and there it goes so i guess that could be pretty good if you you know don't want anybody to open it while it's printing all right so it looks like we've started i might have put a little too much resin in there but it's fine because it's not going over the top either way it looks like we've started and we can see here on the screen that's our first layer all right so it's done with the first layer now it's going to the second one now the first layers are taking a while because they're usually a lot longer exposures to make sure that the model sticks to the build plate but yeah here we have the preview of the layer the layer that we're on which is two out of 1481 and then the amount of time that it'll take which is three hours and 56 minutes looks like then we have hot buttons we have cancel pause and then more options let's click on more options so here we can adjust the different parameters the bottom layer which is six then exposure offs are 0.2 the bottom exposure so you can see there our first six bottom layers are going to be 45 seconds each and then after that it's going to be two seconds for the rest of the layers and you can adjust this just by clicking on it and then putting in what you want so i guess we'll keep this at two so you have good options here and everything you need to adjust your exposures all right so now that it passed the first six layers it's at 24 now it's booging along it's literally every two seconds and it goes up so it goes down starts one two then goes back up so yeah pretty quick so this is an advantage of a monochrome kind of printer is that it is very quick this is so much more better than the older style regular lcd screens that take forever between each layer three to four times longer so not only this is going to give you a much faster printing experience but also this type of lcd screen lasts much longer than the older style so one feature that's quite important i think that some resin printers don't have and i don't understand why and that is the pause button now when you pause a resin printer what you want it to do is you want it to lift up high enough where you can see if the model has stuck to the bed and believe it or not there's some printers out there just don't do nothing when you pause it it might raise it just a bit and just leave it there or some of them just pause and don't do nothing now some of them do go up and i'm hoping this one would be that one so let's go ahead and click the pause button and see what happens all right so it should be paused and look at that it's going up looks like all right and it does give you about 12 to 15 millimeters to see through it and that's usually enough to see if your model stuck underneath or not let's go ahead and pop this lid open real quick and maybe you guys can see if i can bring enough light in there but yeah we can see the stuck model and everything is good so i'm really happy to see that the photon mono here goes up enough where you can see it because that's quite important when you're starting your first print you know after a few layers or 45 right now but after about 20 30 layers you can pause it and look make sure you know you're stuck to the plate all right so it's booging along and it's printing everything is fine so i'm just going to let it print out and we'll see how it turns out and then we'll use the washing cure to process it alright guys so our test print is finished and it actually took four hours and ten minutes push okay there so let's go ahead and try to figure out how to use this wash and cure i'm going to take the top off now i think the first thing we need to do is wash obviously that's what's called wash and cure we do have a basket and also our turntable here so the way it looks like it works is that we're just going to remove the build plate and put it here on the basket is what it looks like and then set the basket into the container filled up with alcohol about halfway or so i would say but we can see here the milliliters and the maximum is all the way up here so you're definitely gonna need quite a bit of alcohol so i have a smaller bottle of alcohol but i have a feeling it might not be enough because a thousand is only here and it looks like we're gonna need at least two and a half or so maybe even three so keep in mind that you will need quite a bit of alcohol and the one i got here is 70 and i think you can use higher percentages obviously but i'm gonna go with this lower percentage just because i don't want to be too harsh on the cleaning but going back to the basket here this extra little bracket here actually just sits right on top and it brings it up even higher and what that does it gives you more distance between the build plate and the bottom of the basket so if you got something pretty tall you might want to add this and then put you know the build plate on top of that but then again you're going to have to have you know more alcohol all the way here to the max so yeah keep that in mind the larger the models the higher you have to go up with the alcohol so i do have two new 70 a thousand millimeters each almost and i do have an opened 90 or 91 that we're gonna add to it to get to that 25 all right so i'm just going to pour it in and by the way guys it is a lot of alcohol but because this container seals you can keep washing different models up to about 30 to 50 different models until you have to get rid of the whole alcohol now another thing is that you want to you know make sure you're in a very ventilated area because alcohol is pretty smelly and also you probably want to put your gloves on i haven't put mine on yet actually let's go ahead and do that i got to be a good example for you guys out there and i know some of you would love to roast me on these safety procedures all right so here we can see we're 2 000 milliliters and we probably need to go up to about two and a half so let's go ahead and put some of this one in here and get us to about two and a half there i guess might as well let's put the whole thing in there and there we go now we got a lot of alcohol in the container so you don't want to keep the alcohol open too long because it does evaporate or at least the good stuff evaporates so anytime you're not using it or removing the model or putting back in i would recommend keeping the lid closed as much as possible the fumes plus you know it's being diluted or weakened as it evaporates all right so let's get to our model here so as we can see it looks like it was successful and it looks like some kind of lattice cube but we'll take a closer look at it after we process it so yeah we're just going to simply set the whole build plate down into the alcohol and it's going to sit right on the basket there hopefully you guys can see that so now we're going to close the lid and take one of my gloves off so let's hit the power button which is in the back and it's going to light up and we're going to see a timer here so here we have a button and a knob that we can scroll so right now we're on wash the wash is glowing and if we click it it goes to cure so since we're washing we need to go to wash and then we're just going to put the timer of how long we want to wash it so it's a very simple procedure there's not much to it so let's say we want to wash it for 10 minutes which i don't know if that's too long or not but let's just go with five minutes here i think that's plenty for this model it's really thin then we're going to click on the knob and that's going to activate it and you guys can see that that thing on the bottom there spun up and so all of the alcohol now is twirling in a circle washing the model really good so and it's pretty quiet you can hear it kind of go but overall it's not disturbing at all and we can see our countdown time has started and at the same time our build plate is getting cleaned also okay so it's slowing down now a minute later and now it's going the other way so it was twirling clockwise but now it's going counterclockwise now that's really cool so since we have resin in this tub here we need to go ahead and cover it because we don't want any kind of uv rays to get in there and you know start messing with it now after it's done cleaning what we're going to do is we're going to let it dry out and that's quite important and the reason why i'm saying that is because you don't want to go straight to curing right after you clean it because if the alcohol evaporates too quick it's going to deform the model somewhat and leave like a white hazy residue on it and you don't want to put it in the sun or anything you want to leave it in the shade or just normal you know lighted area until all of the alcohol and water evaporate off of it and then we're going to do the cure all right and there goes our five minutes so it is finished and it does make a beeping sound three beeps to be exact and it's done so i'm gonna go ahead and turn it off in the back so i got a little towel here where we can set it down so let's go ahead and get it out and i think at this point we could pretty much get it off the basket now one thing i'm not too sure about is that if we should keep the basket in the alcohol or not it should be probably resilient but maybe in the long term if you're not going to use it for a while maybe it's smart not to keep the basket in there i'm going to leave it in there for now close the lid right away because we don't want the fumes and you know just escaping so i'm going to go ahead and try to break it loose here from the build plate and see if we can do it and sure enough came off pretty good it does appear to be washed pretty well so let's go ahead and let it rest for a little bit and all we really want is just for the moisture that's on it to evaporate before we cure it so let's pop the lid off the printer put our build plate back in tighten it up and we're ready for our next print now if you were done from here what you would do is you would clean out your tub and that's not a very hard procedure you're just going to open the bottle and then use one of these string filters grab the tub and pour it back into the bottle the rest of the resin that's left over and then whatever is left you can technically drop it into the cure and wash with the basket in there turn it on and let it clean it and that would be quite easy and quick let's go ahead and go to the computer and we'll check out what's on the sd card alright so here we are at the computer and i got the usb stick plugged in let's go ahead and open it up so it looks like we have some files in here we got an english folder some history bin and i think these are the two models that were included with the printer and then we got a folder which is chinese looks like so let's go ahead and go to this one so we got a pdf of the manual here basically goes over everything about the printer and then how to use it level it things like that so and here also how to install the software and what it looks like so hopefully we won't have too much trouble with that so the slicing software looks like it's called photon workshop and they got a windows 64 a mac version and then another windows maybe 32-bit looks like since we're on a mac let's go ahead and do the dmg file all right so it looks like you installed see if we can open it and there it goes close these windows in the background let's make this a little bigger so it appears to be pretty straightforward overall this is our build plate here and we can move it around i think the first thing we need to do is change our printer because i can see here it says photon s but we need mono let's see if we can figure out where the settings are so here we have slice settings and then the supports what is this over here okay these are all the controls for the model you guys can't see this but to the very top of the screen you'll see configure and then machine type and you can kind of see it there it says photon mono right above this se here and we can see here that it changed to mono right here on the build plate so now we are on mono settings all right so from here on it should know everything else that we need all we got to do is just drag in our models so a good place to get models is here on thingiverse.com so let's type in eiffel tower and see what comes up and sure enough here we have one and it looks pretty good let's click on think files here and then download the stl file and here's our stl file on the desktop so let's just drag it into the slicer and there it goes so now it appears on our build plate and looks like it fits just right with this size here so over here on this side we have the move so we can move the eiffel tower around anywhere we want on the build plate and you can move it individually here with these settings and then go rotate we can rotate it around also you can punch it in here with degrees and whatnot else and then we have size which we can manipulate the size larger or smaller and we can see that our maximum is 120 right now but let's go ahead and fit the maximum so we'll click this button right here and this is going to be the largest they could print and you guys can see that's much larger than it was so let's just go with that see how that turns out this will be a good test for the wash and cure also so but over here to the right we can see the machine settings so this is our resolution in pixels and right here we have the build size volume which is 82 by 130 by 165 so that's how much the build volume is on this printer so for the next part we need to slice the model and i think we're going to click this right here this looks like a slice all right so it's going to ask us where to save we're going to say desktop is fine save and now it's making the file and we can see it right here it says eiffeltower.pwmo and that's the file name looks like it takes a few seconds to slice it it is a pretty large model so it says the estimated time is going to take 8 hours and 16 minutes so we can click preview or just ok so let's click on preview and once we do that we can see here what the layers look like and we have all our parameters right here but yeah we can preview all the layers by scrubbing it here or we can also push play and it will go through the layers by itself but yeah simple as that guys we have our file it's ready to go and it's right here already on the desktop so now all we got to do is just drag it into the usb stick and it's going to save it and if we open that we can see it's right here the new file that we made for the printer so yeah simple as that we are done now i've never used the slicer before so there's probably a lot of other things that you can do and manipulate and whatnot else and here you have the support tab here that you know makes support looks really familiar to the cheat box that i mostly use so if you use that or any kind of resin printing software this should be pretty intuitive overall and you have other options up here like hollowing out the model and making a hole for the drain and things like that so it looks like everything you would need to do resin printing all right so now that we got our eiffel tower on the usb stick let's plug it into the printer turn it on and we'll go ahead and start that print and we can see it show up right there start and there it goes make sure that i got this tight enough here and you guys saw when i picked up the lid it turns off because that sensor in the back senses the lid and by the way there's a little sticker here that says do not remove on the back of the lid and that's i think what that sensor is looking for because when we put it back on goes back to printing so i'm not sure why that would be useful but maybe you know i guess so you don't print with the lid off all right and there it goes so it's started now while we were slicing the eiffel tower this thing dried out nicely and we can look at it a little closer here it's really nice so it's got like this really nice matte finish on it right now but it's not cured all the way and this is where the cure station here is going to finish the job so let's go ahead and take this whole container off with the alcohol in it and we'll put it to the side for now now about this thing here this is actually a reflective material that is used to reflect the uv lights bouncing around to kind of help here underneath the model and the blue side here actually has a film over it and if we peel it we can see that we have a mirror finish on this thing so we're going to put the rose gold side down with the mirror pointing up and so what that's going to do is it's going to help kind of bounce around and you know bounce underneath and cure the bottom part so now we just gotta install this plate which clips right over and then we set the model right on top of the plate so now we just need to put the cover on it and we're ready to cure so let's power it on so we're gonna change it to cure and then set the timer so i'm going to say let's do it for about 10 minutes and we'll click on the knob okay so actually since it's the lid after i've corrected it it started so both of the machines have sensors in it so if i pick this up it stops look at that that's pretty cool that's a nice feature so you don't get uv light in your eyes and whatnot else so yeah so all it does it just spins the model in the circle and the uv lights treat it so yeah as you see guys when you have all the right tools it's actually a pretty pleasant experience and not only that your models are going to come out beautiful because you're doing the process correctly a little closer what it looks like it's actually pretty cool looking almost looks like a futuristic gallery of some sort so yeah we're printing over here the eiffel tower and everything looks pretty good we're on layer 20 and this thing should be nice and cured in about six minutes and it'll be a completed model but yeah this wash and cure machine here is pretty simplistic overall so we just have the couple buttons there the display it does say wash and cure 2.0 on the bottom on the right side it's pretty clean on the left side we've got a little vent there and the back so this is where we're going to plug in and also our on and off switch and this sticker here also works the same way as the other printer here with the cap detection it looks like we have 12 ultra violet lights there and they go up pretty high so so you can cure pretty decent size large prints in there and these two here go together so well all right it's done and it beeps three times let's shut the power off in the back open it up and let's see what this thing looks like so it is a little bit warm i guess from the lights and it feels very dry like it doesn't feel like it's wet or anything so yeah very nicely processed and you guys can see the finish so it's not a shiny finish at all it's more of a matte and it's almost like a silky finish it's got a nice little shimmer to it but yeah on the inside of the box maybe you guys can make it out maybe not it says any cubic and then photon that way so pretty cool so i would say quite successful here on our first test print with printing it out and then processing it through the wash and cure so let's see how the eiffel tower turns out and then we'll process it the same way all right so our eiffel tower is finished and it looks like it turned out really good so it took eight hours and 35 minutes so let's go ahead and move it to the wash station remove this we'll take out the rotating plate and i think we can leave the reflector down in there it doesn't really interfere with anything i don't think so so now we're going to grab our container of alcohol and just set it on top and i did take the basket out because i feel like sitting in alcohol is probably not the best idea for this thing so let's go ahead and open the lid and we're going to set the basket in there and i went ahead and already put this little bracket on top of it here okay so this bracket actually sits on a few tabs inside the container that hold it so it's even higher now it looks like we're not going to have enough alcohol because we're going to have to go all the way to the max to get there but let's see how this will work out and carefully pull it out and we're going to go straight in here set it in there yeah so we definitely need the full available height here because it does go all the way down to the bottom the model does so it looks like we're going to have to add looks like at least another whole bottle of alcohol so thankfully i did find another bottle let's go ahead and add it and that should get us to where we need to go all right perfect got right to the max there literally right on the dot so yeah guys keep in mind you're going to need quite a bit of alcohol all right so let's cover this lid power the machine on and we're on wash let's go ahead and go to 10 minutes i think should be plenty for this click on the knob and it starts right up so yeah you can't really see much because the alcohol kind of got a little cloudy but yeah even if i put a light back there can't really see much so but yeah i'm really enjoying this because this is so simple compared to what i've done before in the past which you know try to clean it by hand with a brush and i end up messing up the models also so i'm pretty excited to see how well this eiffel tower is going to come out with this process here so i'm going to let it go through the time and then we'll pull it out and let it air dry and maybe doing it 10 minutes is a little bit too long i just realized that so i think we did the first model at 5 minutes and this one's ten so it might be a little bit too much all right so it's done and if you guys hear some background noise that's some leaf blower that just started blowing so all right so let's see how this thing turned out well looks like the 10 minutes wasn't too long because our railing is still intact so that's good so let's go ahead and try to break it loose here and we're gonna have to be pretty careful okay yeah it's definitely stuck on there really good unfortunately i might end up breaking this thing but okay so we got one foot all right so it is coming out [Music] yeah you want to be careful when you're pulling something off because it could be quite dangerous especially with a sharp spatula but yeah it looks like everything is good i'm going to set it over here to the side and let it air dry so while we're waiting for our eiffel tower to dry let's go ahead and clean the tub so this would be you know you're done printing and you need to clean up so our build plate's clean and now we just have to clean the tub and so what we need to do first is pour the resin back into the container and you want to use a filter because you don't want to contaminate your good resin and if you guys remember we do have a nice little pour spout right here on one of the corners so we're just going to use a filter and you're going to have to kind of free hold the filter a little higher because if you let it down it's going to go over the neck here so so yeah and then we're just going to pour it and it's going to go through the filter into the can all right so we do have some leftover on the inside here and there's not a lot so we can just try to throw it in here and dilute it all but there is a way to get the small amount in there out another way if you don't want to contaminate the alcohol as much so we're going to put the tub back in the printer let's go ahead and close up the resin here and we're going to go to tools detection choose the full screen let's do 30 seconds and then we'll click next and now the whole screen is on and whatever is resin inside is going to cure show you guys here you can kind of see it curing already we could kind of move it around to spread it a little better if we wanted to but this is just one way that you can get most of the resin out of the tub and sure enough it did freeze in time there oh yeah so now we're going to grab our spatula that's a plastic one not so sharp and i'm just going to peel it right off and so you guys can see here this is what we were able to harden and it's a lot of resin day we don't have to dilute into the alcohol now all right so let's see if we can just throw this whole tub in here in the wash station i'm going to take out this little bracket here we're just going to dunk it in there let's see if it fits okay so it actually fits and it goes to the very top here so i guess let's run it for let's say four minutes probably enough we just need to dilute that resin and should be good but yeah it's pretty cool that the whole tub fits in there and we can wash it and that makes it really simple so let's see how good that turned out all right well i'm pretty impressed so far guys because this makes resin printing really easy and fun because the most thing that you don't want to be doing is cleaning the resin off of parts and the prints themselves that's probably the most unfun part about resin printing and washing cure here does the trick of getting rid of that problem so yeah it looks like it washed it perfectly clean we just need to give it a little wipe and now we have a clean tub for the next time we print so yeah that's pretty nice and pretty easy to do cleanup so let's remove the container and we'll go ahead and set our model here on top so let's go ahead and cover it and we're going to set it for 15 minutes because i want it to cure really good press the knob and it starts so as our eiffel towers they're finishing up let's go ahead and take a closer look at this cube here and i'm going to try to get as close as i can guys but so yeah we can see that the quality of the print is very nice probably going to be a little hard to show you guys but yeah if you can see that it's quite impressive so looking at it with just my eye i can see that it's great but i really want to see what the eiffel tower here will look like okay so it is a little bit warm and it seems to be pretty much fully cured well maybe not i do see a little bit of drops here and there but in any case it's pretty close and we can see how this translucent green here looks like it's darker in some areas and lighter than others where it's thinner or maybe this darker part is just not dried all the way i'm not sure but so let's see here if we can attempt to see these layers here up close so i think that's in focus but yeah you guys can see the railing here that is quite impressive a lot of times this railing here just melts away and this thing is not only intact but it's quite strong also i can flex it but it's not breaking off and right away i can see that all of the braces in the tower are very precise now the part i'm interested in is if we go up you guys can probably see the tower here and you can't see the layering lines there's like little steps so those are there but the part that i'm really interested in is look how thin they are i mean these are ultra thin and i've never seen them that thin now that's really impressive but if we go up even higher this part right here i think is the most shocking part at least to me is usually by the time the print gets all the way up here those braces there are usually clogged up with resin and you can't see through them but on this print here you can see guys how well the braces go through and that is tiny i mean that is ultra tiny you can see this my index finger here so so yeah i think the washing cure has a lot to do with how that looks and if we go up even higher here we can see how thin that is right there and the details are just amazing so yeah guys i'm pretty impressed with how resin pruning can be a lot more enjoyable with this kind of process here so this was my first time using a washing cure system and now that i've used it i don't think i can go back to doing it the way i was so if you're resin printing right now and you don't have a washing cure i would highly recommend looking into one and a cubic here washing cure 2.0 is an excellent value for what you get and also the photo mono being a monochrome lcd printer is very quick and precise as you guys saw in the models so i feel like the photon and the washing cure here together are a great way to get into resin printing if you haven't already and also these machines here can be good for younger folks because they do have these safety caps that if you pull it off you know everything stops so that's a nice feature there anyways guys i think the machines here speak for themselves so if you are interested in one of them or both i'm going to have some links in the description check it out and if you enjoyed this video then hit that like button if you want to see more 3d printing videos i have a pretty long playlist with quite a few in there and also more 3d printing videos to come so stay tuned so as always guys thanks for watching and i'll catch you on the next one peace

Channel: Just Vlad

Views: 83,784

Rating: 4.9302073 out of 5

Keywords: 3d printing, anycubic photon, 3d print, anycubic wash and cure, resin 3d printing, wash and cure, anycubic resin, how to clean resin prints, 3d printing for beginners, 3d printing time lapse, 3d printing software, 3d printing miniatures, anycubic photon mono, anycubic photon setup, anycubic photon 3d printer, anycubic photon review, 3d printers for beginners, anycubic wash and cure 2.0, anycubic wash and cure setup, anycubic wash and cure 2.0 review

Id: yU7ZyWBZyKg

Length: 40min 26sec (2426 seconds)

Published: Fri Feb 05 2021