Anthony Bourdain A Cook's Tour: Season 2 Episode 5: Elements of a Great Bar

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(gentle music) Welcome to my world. Two escargot pate, frisse. Two green salads. Okay lamb is up here. Lambchop, steak fritte. Shouldn't you be doing something? Two faux-filet and a pepper steak. C'mon, make the dessert. Chocolate tart please. As a cook tastes and smells are my memories. Now I'm in search of new ones. So I'm leaving New York City in hope to have a few epiphanies around the world and I'm willing to go to some lengths to do that. I'm looking for extremes of emotion and experience. I'll try anything, I'll risk everything, I have nothing to lose. (pan sizzling) Be good. Okay, let's face it. I'm getting out of work pretty early these days. I'm not exactly working the 17 hour days behind the stove like I used to. But you know, one thing remains a constant in my life, whatever I'm doing, whether it's cooking or yammering witlessly in front of a camera. I hate my job, oh yeah. After work, I like to sit down at a good bar and enjoy a finely made alcoholic beverage of my choice. Simple, yes? Well, no. It's a big world out there, with a lot of bars. Most of them not great. Fortunately I've made an exhaustive study of the problem. (laughing) In doing so I've subjected myself to all manner of beverages. From the sublime, to the frankly. Disgusting. (Laughing) I've had bar food that was beautiful, scary, and potentially quite leathal. Out of these experiences have come a half dozen principles I call the elements of the great bar. And in the spirit of public service, I submit them to you for your consideration. So this brings us to our first principle, what you're looking for, an element of a great bar. Well of course it's someplace close by, someplace familiar. [Bartender] Hey, there he is. Someplace where they know your name. [Bartender] Tony! Hey Tony, how are you? And what you like to drink. The usual? Oh yeah. Finest kind. - There you go. - Thank you sir. Take Desmond's for example. A no BS bar right down the street from Les Halles. Ah yes, life is beautiful again. Back in the days when I actually worked for a living it was not unknown for me to wander down here in my dirty kitchen whites for a pint of Bass. And in fact after the service period as I reach that fever pitch of adrenaline and rage that might lead me to commit mayhem or violence on a waiter. What's that (beep) do you think bernaise is? Bernaise is like egg yolks and butter. Strictly in the interest of not causing such violence and mayhem, I would come down here and I would maybe have another pint or two. A bar should be a refuge, a sanctum sanctorum, where one can commiserate with others' struggles. The joys, the tragedies of the human experience. So, Yankees stand a chance next year? Mets, come on, M-E-T-S. My entire team sucks. Come on, let's go Mets. I've been drinking in the wrong place. So what does a TV chef complain about in a bar? How bout other bars? I've been to a few that were not exactly friendly. In St. Petersburg, Russia, I needed to kick back. So I end up at this bar where there's definitely kicking back going on. But it's in a cage in the center. The place is loaded with Russian mobsters and the hardest looking models I've ever seen. Generally when you see somebody foaming blood at the mouth, the human reaction is to go, oh, dude, you know. No, everyone there is like. Require a more hands-on approach to kicking back? How 'bout the kick back of an automatic weapon (gun firing) There's a joint in Cambodia where the drinks are free, but your waiter comes over with a menu featuring ammunition. There's a sign on the wall at this bar that says please do not aim your weapon at anything you don't intend to shoot. Which I think left a lot of room open for interpretation. Alcohol, tobacco, and firearms? It's the trifecta of fun. (gun firing) Cool. Bottom line, a bar shouldn't feel like a war zone. It should feel like an extra room in your house where your friends hang out, presided over by element number two. Maniacal bartender, someone who's on top of the others. Oh yeah. A maniacal bartender should combine a fierce concern with your current state of liquidity. - Thanks. - See you later. [Anthony] With the tactful listening skills of a priest hearing confession. Thank God he's gone, I thought he'd never leave. (laughing) The truly maniacal bartender has mastered at least one of the sacramental beverages of their craft. It might be the potent brew of rum, lime juice, sugar cane syrup, and mint that is the mojito, or perhaps the consummate skill behind an expertly poured pint of Guinness. Are you gonna allow some pimply college student on a summer break working part-time at some sports bar to mess with your Guinness? No I say. Perfect, right down to the shamrock. But the drink that separates the wannabes from the maniacal doctors of mixology is the classic American martini. In a world of single malt snobs and fizzy-headed blender treats, the martini balances the wit and sophistication of Cole Porter with the cool discipline of Joe DiMaggio. They make it look so easy. Words and music, hitting and fielding, gin and vermouth. Nothing to it, a few simple ingredients and an obsession with being the best. There's a lot of people out there who could talk a good martini, and then there's Dale Degroff, the guy who wrote the book on the subject. Oh yes. Really, this book right here. And I got a few questions to ask. Dale, I like a vodka martini, is that really a martini? Gin is a martini. Vodka doesn't bring any flavor to the party. I want all the flavors of the botanicals in the gin, I want 'em all to come together and make a great drink. Vermouth is an essential ingredient. A drop is okay, but you gotta have some vermouth in. Okay, I would like a classic martini, correctly made, by the best guy for the job. Let's do it. Okay, this is when you realize that Dale is in a league of his own. He has a personal martini kit. 28 years, I've never met a bartender who showed up with a knife roll. This is a Wusthof, by the way. This is a knife that any chef would be proud to have in his kit. This cocktail began in the 1880's right here in New York City at the Knickerbocker Hotel. First time they put together dry gin, dry vermouth in the same glass. Half and half mind you. Oh, yummy. And we're gonna drop an olive in there. We're gonna flame a peel in there, gonna drop that in. And I'm good to go. [Dale] Go for it. You know, that is a beautiful thing. It is the superstar of the cocktail. It's like baseball, jazz, musical comedy, it's all in one glass right here. This is the American experience. Hey, don't laugh. After one of Dale's martinis you just might attempt all three of those activities. Ah, morning in New York. People settling in to their daily rhythms, starting out alert and refreshed, approaching the challenges ahead in stride with a can-do attitude. But not me. Now I've already put in a full day and night to educate the viewers at home about bars of New York, so I think I'm due for a break. And like a lot of people, after a hard day's work, I could really go for, well, a drink. Okay, it's only eight AM, but obviously not everyone works nine to five. And so not many bars are open, and I certainly don't wanna feel guilty when I throw back a pint this early. Where to go, where to go? Which brings us to another element. Convenient hours of operation, operating hours amenable to your personal lifestyle choices, which means bar opens early. Jeremy's Ale House. Well it doesn't pack the excitement of an early morning board meeting, but here we are. The crowd here is from all walks of life. Whether they just hauled a ton of mackerel and need to loosen up, or are busy plotting corporate mergers and need some inspiration. Now while some themes may emerge in this bar you have to admit that there's a personal touch. And if you also need a breakfast other than cereal or a muffin, you can easily be accommodated. Nothing like that early morning beer buzz. Your brain's all soft and mushy and unprotected, so we'll attack it with alcohol at that really vulnerable moment, you really get a quality buzz. By the way, there was a long and glorious tradition outside of our prohibition-minded, politically correct shores. All across Europe the idea of the morning tipple is considered entirely appropriate. You know, a little pick me up, a little something to propel you into the shank of the day and beyond, you know in good spirits, as well as providing badly needed vitamins and nutrients for a growing boy. Let's see, niacin, riboflavin, prevents heart disease, makes people look more attractive. Forget oatmeal, I'm switching to oatmeal stout. Beats Corn Flakes. The thing about a bar is it should be easy, it should be comfortable, it should be like slipping into a nice, warm, comfortable bath. There should be no jarring, discordant notes. (car honking) There's certain things you're looking for when you sit down at the bar, and certain things you definitely want to avoid. What do you want to avoid? Places that distract you from good food and even better drinks. Take themes for example. Isn't alcohol theme enough? I mean what is a theme bar? Why do you need a theme for a bar? ("You're a Grand Old Flag") I find entertainment obtrusive in bars, and I deeply resent any kind of live music intruding on my drinking time. No cabaret, okay? Out of the question. And God help us all, the worst case scenario karaoke. (wailing) You go in and their singing along to Abba, this is not some place I wanna drink. It's Billy Joel karaoke night. Please God, kill me, kill me now. Next thing to avoid, any bar with a velvet rope. Any place that makes you feel like a jerk for even trying to get in in the first place. You miserable loser shite, step aside, you're not getting in, alright? You know there's a problem when there's more people outside the bar than inside. At the end of the day, what are you buying? You're buying an overpriced beer. I don't go to bars to meet people, so I don't want crowds. I don't want to get jostled, I don't want to get elbowed, and I don't want to meet any new friends, frankly. You know what, I don't wanna meet any romantic friends either. I mean come on, dating bars? Then there's the concept that haunts my nightmares. Dating bar meets theme bar. Oh I think you're so cute. [Anthony] At a joint in New York, potential mates speak to each other on video phones sitting six feet away from each other. [Phone Voice] You want a drink? Alrighty, I'll meet you at the bar. You know, there's something to be said about the lonely bar. No obtrusive shouting or groping. It's a place where you can sit quietly, unwind, reflect on your day or your troubles. A place where you can listen to the low hum of whatever sad music may be piping through the speakers without it jarring your nerves. Which brings us to element number three of a great bar. A good jukebox. Unfortunately, according to international copyright law you can't actually hear any of the great music on this jukebox. That would be too expensive, and this is a cheap show. Which brings us to element four. Bar food. Good bar food. In San Sebastian, Spain for example, people bounce from bar to bar sampling the best tapas a joint has to offer, and then move on to the next bar and another specialty. Fish cake and cod fish cooked with onion and peppers, that's what we're here for. Think of it as an Easter egg hunt for adults, with gourmet bar food for prizes. Legamara, the specialty is wild ceps, wild mushrooms. It's a philosophy of variety and moderation, summed up in the Basque saying eat a little bit often. I need privacy for this. Oh wow. In Tokyo, Japan a walk down a narrow back alley yields a different kind of bar food experience altogether. The scent of yakitori fills the air. Simple, skewered, grilled meats that the Japanese love to pair with beer or sake. This is the sort of place I would hang out in much too much if I lived in Tokyo. So you leave work in Tokyo and hit one of these yakitori joints for happy hour. This is elbow cartilage from the chicken, frightening to the western mind. And really flavorful. Okay, tapas, yakitori, so they got it together there on the other side of the world. But when it comes to the ultimate bar food we have it right here in the USA. The one, the only hamburger. And the big cheese of bar burgers is at the Corner Bistro in New York City. Oh yes, gracias. You know, all the snooty Europeans sneering at our American hamburger, they don't know what they're missing. Mmm, beautiful thing, chef. Tastes good, great. It's the best. Okay Tony, this is the beef. Oh yeah. You know it's 90% beef. This is how people enjoy. What is one looking for in bar food? Well, you want it simple. You know, I don't want a tower of foie gras with microgreens here. I want blood and grease on my fingers and chin. That's what I want. Plus, I don't want cutlery. I want to be able to hold my food in one hand and a beer in the other. Robust, honest, greasy, and good, good. Any time a bar gets the food right the taste of their drink is that much sweeter. Let me tell you, this is one sweet, sweet beer indeed. So here we are in the middle of our journey and I find myself needing even more sustenance. Not in the mood for the great Bistro hamburger you say? How 'bout some pork? This is Rudy's, home of the free weenie. That's right, hot dogs. Now you think to yourself when you first sit down, yeah, I don't know, a free hot dog? After a couple of beers, it seems like a very good idea. And it is a good idea. Great jukebox, in fact one of the two or three best jukeboxes in New York City, ergo, the world. And free weenies. But I feel a little shy about ordering a light bulb hot dog, and I do have my reputation to protect, so I should be casual about this. I think a pint of Bass if you please, and something to eat, a hot dog maybe? Hot dog? Okay. Okay, I kept my cool. Now I don't need onions or sauerkraut or any other nonsense. I'm a purist, so mustard is good enough. Oh yes, delightful, thank you sir. That's good. Good. I know to our snobbier viewers out there this may be an outrage, but I'll make it sound, well, more palatable for them. Saucisson de Strasbourg en croute avec mustard. Well, going to Corner Bistro and Rudy's for a burger or a hot dog are definitely good stops along the bar food route. When I wanna go to a place that actually has a menu I head to Chicama. I'm hitting around eight or nine bars today so I think I probably need some food. Could I get an Ecuadoran ceviche? Let me get a little smoked marlin dip also, thanks. Good food takes time to prepare, which means one thing here. Mojito time. This is one of those drinks where if you have one, then you have two, and then you wake up with no clothes in another city wondering how you got there. This is alcohol's mission, right? I mean alcohol should transport you to a far away, hopefully warmer climate. What better drink to do that than mojito? Let's just say I'm whetting my appetite and keep it at that. I think this falls under the category of luxurious bar food, yes, ceviche. This ceviche is shrimp, marinated in lemon juice, tomatoes, onions, and whatever else the chef decides to toss in. A little smoked marlin, that beats buffalo chicken wings and fried mozzarella sticks, yes? Hey, it's in a little baby tortilla, why isn't this in every bar? Yo, TGI Friday's serve this. Mmm, perfect. Nice mix. Heat, smoke, sweet and cool. For now I'll focus on the sweet but deadly. I'll take another one of these whenever you're ready. These are good. After establishing a solid base of food to suck up all of that alcohol sloshing around in your stomach, it's time to maintain that steady buzz, no time to fade now, so what to drink? What to drink? I've drank so many things around the world, I don't think I want anything too challenging. [Narrator] Cooks Tour cameras catch up with Anthony Bourdain in Puebla, Mexico. He's going to a Pulqueria, a bar where you drink buckets of fermented cactus sap. Pulque is slimy and sour, yuck. Cheers guys. [Narrator] Cheers, Tony. In Na Trang, Vietnam we find Tony monkeying around with lobsters. That's gotta hurt. [Narrator] Here the local drink is lobster blood mixed with good ol' Hanoi vodka. And of course it's gonna make me strong. [Narrator] You're strong indeed, Tony. Meanwhile, back in Ho Chi Minh City, they insist Tony try the local wine. Snake wine, that is. So what does the international connoisseur think of this year's vintage? Compared to Jagermeister, this is wonderful. [Narrator] Well if you like that, how 'bout some cobra bile? You know, I figure I'd be tasting plenty of that later in my hotel. [Narrator] Better you than us, Tony. Cheers. Take it from someone who's been around the world, after you've already had a few drinks, you don't want to experiment. You want to hit someplace familiar. Some place like this place. Bellevue Bar, one of my favorite joints in New York. No reptile related beverages here, just good old fashioned bar talk and beer. A bar can be a very personal thing, everyone has their favorite or their local. At Bellevue Bar, they fully appreciate the symbiotic relationship between vendor and customer which brings me to the next element of a good bar. This is something we call the buyback. How does it work? Works like this. After every couple of beers or drinks that I buy, the bartender in a gesture of reciprocity shows me I've got one coming for free. Now this usually comes in the form of an inverted shot glass. It's on me, your next one. It's simply an unspoken arrangement where every third or fourth drink that comes your way is on the house. This is very important because a lot of drinkers, you know, around three or four, they're thinking about maybe going home. You see a nice stack of these bad boys lined up, you think, jeez, I got all those free drinks coming, I can't leave now. It gets you over that all important hump. It turns what could have been just a late afternoon beer after the office into a long and sordid evening of relentless, two-fisted drinking. I think I have a few drinks coming. Sure. And Bellevue's barkeeps are always willing to engage you in smart discourse while you accrue frequent flier miles. Oh good, we're on the same page then. See I always believe that the real mastermind on Gilligan's Island, the real boss, was Gilligan. The Minnow, washing up on that island, accident, conspiracy, it's Gilligan's island. That series of passive aggressive strategy. Evil genius. And the boat washes up there, coincidence? I don't think so. It's not called Skipper's Island. Despotic ruler. You'll notice Gilligan foils every possible attempt at escape. He's really in charge in his own weird, passive aggressive way. How many Heinekens have you had? (laughing) [Anthony] Whatever your poison, nothing makes your stay more enjoyable than a bar that cares. And you know you found one when you're staying too long. You got one, two, three, four coming back to you. I better call home and and adjust my schedule. I might have to start listing. Bellevue Bar as my return address. Okay, so we've seen the good, the bad, I'm not getting in, the ugly, the very ugly, in the bars of New York and beyond. So whether you're an avid explorer. Let's eat. Or just a local bar fly. (laughing) Well we agree on that. Have no fear. Somewhere, [Bartender] Hey, there he is! There's a barstool with your name on it.
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Channel: GoTraveler
Views: 405,690
Rating: undefined out of 5
Keywords: travel, gotraveler, anthony bourdain, bourdain, master chef, cooking show, a cook's tour, asian cuisine, tokyo, tokyo food, elements of a great bar
Id: totfjDQ5Lkw
Channel Id: undefined
Length: 23min 46sec (1426 seconds)
Published: Thu Sep 03 2020
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