Albrecht Chuck Rebuild

okay so we're finally getting onto this Ari Chuck this is excuse me uh albrecht Chuck disassembly and this is from Jason racks nests and he bought this off eBay and it's not gripping very well so he wasn't sure quite how to take it apart or how to evaluate the stuff that's inside it so we're going to get my hand doing that taking this apart and you know I kind of cruised around on on YouTube and I didn't you know there's some a little bit of stuff online and I'll put a couple links up for you guys but there wasn't any videos in particular about disassembling me so let's so we got there we got some tooling that we made this grabs the body here so we can unscrew the hood we've got our little uh arbor separation wedges to pop the r8 off you'll see what this is for in a minute and there's actually two more tools and I'll bring them over when we're ready to use them to do the actual you know main disassembly so you know I think I'm going to move the camera around and we'll we'll get this part off and we'll we'll I think we'll go ahead and pop this Arbor off I got to go back and look at his his email I think you wanted to put a different you want to put a straight arbor on this so let's move the camera and then let's get ready to go okay so right out of the gate I just want to say you see this here don't panic it's all okay don't worry we're going to be fine so we're not going to animal this thing definitely so let's you know what I don't think that's actually gonna let's let's see if we can get this ring off for starters and these have a kind of a fellow ster head screw that goes that doesn't have a very deep slot so you need a screwdriver that fits this really good or else you can shatter that that screw now don't do this okay I mean it's very tempting to go ahead and do that but this it tends to Mar the the edge of the slot so that's what this guy's about here and all you got to do is just spread it a little bit now for a guy that has a million hammers this is a pretty poor hammer but it's kind of all that's really needed there we go all right so all right I got I got to pull the Arbor first I thought I was going to slide over but it's not going to do that so let's put that back on oops a little my little wedge okay so we're going to pop the we're going to pop the Arbor first and we're going to use these wedges and we're going to use them opposing so they push parallel okay so let's go on like so and and then we will go squeeze these in the vise and and see if we can get that Arbor to go so let me I'll move the camera over to the vise and we'll just give those a squeeze and see what see what happens all right so I'm going to choose to hang on to the chuck part here instead of the the Arbor part so the Chuck doesn't fall on the so now I'm just going to squeeze these kind of evenly okay that was not in there that great feels like there's a little oil on that but anyway those these are readily available they're pretty cheap and they're they're heat treated so they slide on each other really nicely so all right so this has a number six Jacobs mount here and now if we look inside there you can see the end of the the end of the screw so there's no direct path through this that you can that you can punch the you can punch the Arbour off with so this makes it you know keeps all the crud from getting up in there and coolant and oil and stuff like that so keeps a screw cleaner so the screw is basically shielded from all the business on this in all right so let's now let's take the the grip collar off and then we'll try to get the hood off okay so let's go back to our our plastic wedge and we're going to give it a little okay so that's is that alright so we get a little a little corrosion under there looks like nothing too serious that oh that will polish up nicely so all right okay so now you can see this is that this part rotates so here's where we want to hold it here and that's what our our little phenolic block is for here we're going to pop that on there like that we're going to grip this in the vise in a manner that closes that and then I'll show you how to unscrew the hood in a workman like fashion so let me move the camera all right so I think we're going to do we're going to scale it like this I think this will be okay here I just I'm going to put a little Gronk on that so now so don't don't put a wrench like this directly on this you'll just chatter the heck out of that it'll be no good so what we're going to do what's really nice about pipe branches for gripping things is they have these the jaws are parallel so when you put more pressure on them it they bite harder right so that's one of the reasons they work so good so we just want to get a little bigger than this okay it looks pretty good now what we're going to do is we're going to we're going to shield these nasty jaws from our nice German knurling here with a with a piece of copper and this is just I don't know what is that it's not even a millimeter a little less than a millimeter it looks like about what thirty thousands or something like that okay and we're just going to kind of Bend that around like so okay so what's going to happen is the the nasty jaws here are going to bite into the copper and then the copper is going to bite into the the the German knurling there and then we're going to unscrew that hood so that's kind of what's going to happen or theoretically what's going to happen and you'll optimize this okay so now for folks it don't use pipe wrenches all the time you want three-point contacts so you got one job to jaw and then the back jaw you really want up against the up against the business there okay and what that does is that keeps you from crushing the object okay so it looks like I got a pretty good bite on this now I'm pretty happy with that oh wow okay so that was pretty easy yeah that was pretty easy I don't know so what that leads me to believe at this point is this Chuck has been apart before so maybe the guy that Jason bought this from was mucking around in there himself but they're generally a lot tighter than that it takes more than that to get them off so and when we put it back together we will put it on a little a little harder than that so so when you take some apart like this you know do it kind of methodically and we're going to examine things here this is a very important surface in here it can't be too smooth and obviously it can't be too rough either so there's just kind of this fine line there let me get my now be warned there's uh there's some loose ball bearings in here so you have to be a you have to be a little bit careful here taking these apart and we'll get to those in a sec so we're looking at the jaws here and you're going to examine this surface here because this is this is the contact surface it gets all messed up these that this particular one looks pretty good and then the other spot to look at is here now you can you can feel this you can run your fingernail on that and there's a little bit of a finish there and that's on purpose okay and we want we this does not want to be perfectly smooth here okay so this feels pretty good right now and there's no there's no fancy order to these or anything like that it's not one two three or any anything cooky like that so let's say let's go to that one yeah that one looks pretty good too yep good and then the last one that looks pretty good all right so this has got a little a little spot on here but nothing alarming where they grab something a little funny there so yeah I think these jobs look pretty good so okay so let's go to the next step I'll move the I'll get this out of here and we'll move the camera and we want to capture those ball bearings as they come out okay so we got the body here or the main part here and it's kind of registration pin so we're just going to we're just going to pull this so this way this one's a fitted really good so there's it's creating a kind of a suction here there we go okay now here you saw that I took it apart vertically right and the reason is that the ball bearings and I'm going to tip this so you can see it here okay they sit in that little recess there so if you take it apart sideways they they fall out I'm just examining this here and I know if it's stock grease or or what because generally these things that have very little lubrication in them they don't need a lot of lubrication to see you guys know too so and okay so already I already lost one there or will fill out kind of looks a little funny in here too to tell you the truth count these in here real quick I guess it looks right 26 okay I thought they had 25 but okay whatever I think this is a bigger Chuck - it's probably on the side here so yeah this is a 1/8 to 5/8 Chuck so that may account for the slightly larger body diameter and additional ball bearing salt my my you know 8th or 1/16 to 1/2 or whatever has one less ball in it so so be sure you you count the balls and there should be basically a full complement with a little bit of space you know about a third to a half of a ball of space in there so all right I'm going to get some rags I'll clean this stuff up here we're going to clean all the grease off we'll clean all these balls and clean the grease off and then we're going to examine all these surfaces and take a look at and make sure they're they're up to snuff okay so we've got the got the balls in here and a little bit of a WD just to wash the that's kind of a strange looking lubricant that was in there as good as all you golfers know it's it's important to have clean balls so we want to make sure those are nice and clean there's no credit on them and I've cleaned the I'm not even sure what they call this part uh it's got a little name maybe it's the body this is the hood anyway I don't remember the name of this part so I'm looking in here and hopefully you can see down in there a little bit I'm starting to think that this particular there's a couple of indicators that this particular Chuck had some corrosion on it and in particular down here in this ball seat here I see it this here has some corrosion or signs of corrosion and it also has and I don't know if the camera is going to pick it up let me point it out to you here you see this little area here maybe you can see it it's got some distress on the surface that looks like wire brush so my my current belief is that whoever Jason got this Chuck from out of the part it was rusty they cleaned it up and and then they threw it on eBay so now they may have even put a new this Arbor looks pretty fresh here to me so maybe they even threw through this our burrata this thing doesn't look like it's been used very much here tapers pretty clean this basically has no marks on it so you know I don't know what the the history of this is here so I see a little bit signs of corrosion in there this looks pretty good in here and we'll do a little I'm going to restore the finish in there a little bit to make it grip better I think that was one of Jason's complaints too so let's take a look at this guy here and we can pop that apart okay and then all these nice ground surfaces in here it's like a suction fit on a lot of these parts here so here's the left-handed threads that's the threaded portion there okay and now you can see all the way through from the the mounting taper through and you can see why they you can't put a hole all the way through that so anybody that's tried to take one of these apart by reaching in there and and on that now you know why yeah it doesn't work can't do anything with that so so will will clean all that up and this looks pretty good here now around here looks like there were once again this is this is the mating portion to this this is one of the ball bearing seats or the races and it also shows some signs of there's pitting on this on the surface it's it's pretty light it's just enough that you can just barely feel it and then you can see the little the little white line there that the the balls are rolling on so so we'll do a little refinishing on that we'll do a little refinishing on that and let's see what else are we going to do here yeah there and there you see it again there see the the modeling there so I think this thing got got wet or damp or something and that's one of its problems but there's no worries we can I'm pretty sure we can get this back and and the jaw I don't see anything that really you know absolutely needs to be replaced here so we're not going to we're not going to replace anything we're just going to clean some of this stuff up and I'm just going to use a little emery paper on here to take off any pitting or anything and and then we're going to put it back together and we'll we'll try it out Jason complained that the the Chuck doesn't want to grip his tool falls out so we can't have Jason having his tool will fall out so we're going to we're going to fix up this Chuck all right so let's let's do a little work on this one here and we're just going to I got to stand up for this we're just going to go around this very gently the goal is not to remove any material we're just going to remove it yeah any up stickers so I called around like that yeah yeah that's better it's nice and smooth them and yeah I don't want to I don't want to change its shape but I do want to take off any any high points there and make it smooth again and this is just an aluminum oxide India stone here and a lot of guys say gee Tom how come you don't use use oil on these things and I just prefer them dry myself and and there's two schools of thoughts on lubricated or unlubricated and I happen to subscribe to the generally unlubricated depends what I'm doing I haven't fundamentally noticed any difference and according to some experts sometimes a lubricant or oil produces a duller edge actually depending you know for cutting tools so yeah these are cutting tools they're they don't last forever they're kind of disposable and they're really disposable if you drop them and so they do wear out and kind of like fines alright well that's better you know I don't want to do I'm not going nuts here okay I just want to this sites pretty good I'm not going to monkey with that so that's pretty good this one's a little harder here might have a little guess what one of these is broke I have a little short piece I'll reach in there and I'm going to do the same thing down there to clean up that surface okay so those would be good then let's see that one I'll probably do on the surface plate on a some silicon carbide paper just to kind of clean that up that's not a let's see I mean make sure I get my head my act together there yeah that's that is not a functional surface alright mr. wizard of course they see how well that this stuff is you know it's like a piston fit there yeah that's not a that's not a functional surface so I'm not going to do anything with that so that one looks good there so this is the only one left to do and we'll probably chuck that one up in the lathe and reach in there with some paper to do that okay so let me do that then we'll get this in the lathe and go from there okay so I stoned these race surfaces here and this one here the way I reached that one as I had this busted piece of stone I just dropped it in here and see if I can redo it here to make it so you guys can see put the flat side down like so and then just kind of worked it around until I was happy with the way that little flat shelf looks okay and let's see what's the other one I did the other one is this one here and you guys saw me do that one already so the last thing here and before we get ready to reassemble is the inside of the hood here this internal taper surface here these jaws right on that surface but it has to have a one of the things that keeps you know any crank the hood down right you need a little bit of tooth on that to help Snug it all down so that does it loosen okay so when you tighten it up that it doesn't just drop back and and release so you'll see shiny spots on the inside and you want to just kind of scuff those until they they go away and this is just some 320 grit Emery and we're just going to kind of go around the inside I was going to spin it in the lathe and I just decided that just to do it by hand you can just reach in there and kind of work it around and you know what I try to remove material here we're just trying to to get the sheen off of it actually looks pretty good right there hopefully you can see in there yeah see if I don't know if this is going to help or hurt here so let's give it a try anyway you just give a little scuff like that and clean off you know typically you'll see three lines where these jaws right on that surface and you want to get rid of those and clean that up so now what I want to do is clean everything for assembly get rid of the abrasives and in the area and then do a final cleaning on all the balls and and in bits and then we'll go we'll do the reassembly so let me clear the decks here and do a final cleaning on this stuff and then we'll come back and we'll put this little mama looka back together okay so let's let's get started here see if I remember how to put this back together this is just some white lithium grease here this happens to be Lube replayed I think pretty much any white lithium grease would be fine we're not going to use very much that's the one thing to remember you don't want to douse the inside of this a with Lube it's not necessary so think of it more like paint as opposed to you know pump and grease in there okay it's the just kind of a faint little brushing of it here it is the light brushing so we're putting this is where the balls go here we're going to stack the balls up in the in the this area here some basically putting a little bit down here is a kind of like glue or whatever and then we're really good here okay well I'm going to use my tweezers here to set them in there just a little bit more in there okay now these tweezers are kind of weird because they have a little groove in them which kind of helps you helps you grab grab your balls so I'm just going to gingerly place those in there one by one so you know when you're doing fine work sometimes it's you know you reposition it so that you have kind of an optimal I don't even know if you guys can see down in there actually and what let me take let me take a look in here you find here make sure can we see there yeah you can sort of see you know what I'll move it a little closer move it a little closer to the center here maybe you guys can see a little better got in there and I do get away from you that's why you want to do this on something where they're not going to bounce and and go to mr. bozo also if your tools are magnetized to be where it makes it really hard actually these some of these balls appear to be oh you know what I was fishing that's right I might have inadvertently magnetized these a little bit I think I was picking him up with my little screwdriver when I was cleaning them so all-brick probably has some some cool fixture that they that they just drop them in there and pour min and then drop the piece in or something actually what would work is if you had a so talking and chasing your balls is it so if you had a little plastic plug that came up there that was this size here right or excuse me yeah this size here and it would form a little trough for that and you could literally just pour the balls in there and then you know only so many fit but we're not doing it that way and then push it out when you push that in so kind of a Trading Places thing if that makes sense yeah some of these are to get a little bit of magnetism on all right so if your wife asks you what you're doing you can say oh I'm watching Tom play with his balls and then she'll go what okay last to sleep okay all right so don't breathe okay so once once that cylinder is in play you're not going to lose them okay so you can you can set it like that so okay I'm going to I think I'll move the camera and and we'll take a little cut here I'll move the camera a little bit and then we'll come in and we'll do the rest of this okay so next part forget I'm going to put a little bit a little bit of stuff on the on the screw here and you can see I'm just you know this is just a light lubrication we don't need a lot and this is left-handed threads this is a reminder okay that down okay and then here I'm just going to kind of glisten my fingers here and put a little on that okay kind of like you do an o-ring right you just want it shiny with a Lube not not drenched with it now there's a little pin the app the line up here with that I mean not a big deal but just point it out okay now I think what I'm going to do right now at this point is I'm going to put this collar on just to kind of help hold things together here see if I want to do that because I want to kind of sit on that surface there and let's go ahead and put it on I said I was going to do it so let's just go ahead and do it so that was down before I should have opened it up work from now see that's kind of sagging down a little bit but that's okay okay and we got jaws here and once again we'll just put this it just a teeny bit in this little little cross slot here and then you have to line up the see if we can you have to line up the the jaw slot right because it has to index with that so I think I mentioned it before that Adam it doesn't really matter the you know one two three or anything like that the sequencer okay well it looks like I'm doing pretty good I'm not aparts almost all right so I think we could put the hood on now and this is just kind of clean and dry here okay okay all right so that's basically it now obviously we're going to play we're going to tighten a few things up right so we're going to use our block again all right and we're going to clamp on that and then we're going to use our copper shield and we're going to crank that together and Bob's your uncle okay so I think we're ready here this the hood is hand tight onto the body here and we're going to use our phenolic tooling here and run that all the way up or as far as we can let's do this for here and then we're going to put the crunch on that okay and then we're going to use our copper shield here and our handy-dandy rigid pipe wrench here okay it's starting to turn in the and the phenolic block okay so you want that pretty tight I mean you don't want to be able to inadvertently undo that with hand pressure okay so it seems to operate smoothly and then we'll put the you know the locking ring I don't you know actually I'm sorry guys I should have looked up the part names here but I didn't so I apologize for that I'm just going to put the side that was down before or down again okay except my little wedge in there give it a little stab and that should go on easy now yeah yeah mister keuner mr. screw so I'm not going to tighten this all the way up I'm just going to run it down till it touches so actually that's not bad so if you run this down too far it'll drag on the on the body here so you don't want that but you don't want excessive play either so and if you get it on too far you can just give it a little tap like that and then it'll slide off a little bit let's put a little tension on that so I'm just trying to reduce that there we go that's what I want so I'm feeling the axial play there a little bit okay in there yeah there maybe a little bit as they wear they develop axial play it snug that guy down you know don't stab your hand so I'm not pushing that hard okay so I think that's it feels nice and smooth what we're going to do just is a kind of both and the side here we'll go ahead and test this so what I'm going to do is I'll remount the Arbour here I have a darn eye and I don't remember Jason I think he was going to put a straight shank on this so I don't quite remember so what I'll do is I'm going to the Arbor and then I'll take it back off when I mail it back to Jason so when we're all done playing with this so what we'll do is clean this taper here now this one's already clean and dry I'm going to go ahead and give it a little a little once-over just to make sure there's nothing I don't like in there now normally what I do is I put these in and then I use the Arbor press and I press it in you can warm the chuck up by putting it on a little hot plate get it to you know 150 degrees or something like that and keep this cool and drop it in there give it a little tap and it's in there for good what we're going to do in this case is we're just going to we're just going to mount it up okay and then I'm just going to give it a look this has got you know some mass to it so I'm just going to give it a little a little SWAT and that should be all it really needs to see if the tapers are in good shape so let's go over to the mill and we'll conclude this this operation here we're going to drill a hole in something and kind of try it out see how she works okay so we're ready to go kinda ready to go this that's one of the reasons I don't like RH shanks on these Chuck's I like a short straight shank that that way you don't have to drop the knee so much when you go to put it in I got a piece of half-inch steel here 13 millimeter steel and we're just kind of poke up poke a hole through it just for haha sure alright this is a 13 millimeter drill or half-inch drill all right Yoshi let's move over here and well we're about 500 rpm it's pretty happy I'm not using any Lube and I'm pushing pretty hard but I'm clearing the chips all right chips returning tan so we're working it okay now we should be able to just think one little pop and we comes loose okay all right Jason I think you're you got a healthy Chuck now at least better than it was that's for sure I'm gonna pop this Arbor off then I'm gonna box this little monkey up and it's headed back to you buddy hey thanks for loaning me your chuck for a nice video series okay thank you okay so that's about it for this Alberta Chuck Chuck rebuild and I just wanted to thank Jason racks nests for loaning us his chuck for a video demo demonstration of rebuilding one and Jason doesn't look like you really need any parts for this and try it out and see how it works we tried it we test-drove it looks pretty good I removed the Arbor again for you so we'll come back here like this in the box so I don't know there it is guys so you know my idea here is to empower you guys to go ahead and take on these kind of projects these things are a little bit of a mystery and about how they go together fortunately there's some good written instructions on the albrecht site you got to kind of dig for them a little bit but they're there and they talked about taking this apart they say unscrew hood well then I'll tell you you need a little little thing to hold onto it and etc etc so hopefully you guys got something out of this that you can use and you won't be afraid to buy one of these Chuck's on eBay and nursed back to health thanks for watching

Channel: oxtoolco

Views: 195,066

Rating: 4.9364839 out of 5

Keywords: Keyless Chuck, Albrecht, Drill chuck

Id: h_jQ7-UiWgI

Length: 44min 11sec (2651 seconds)

Published: Fri Feb 13 2015