Aermacchi This and That - part 1 // Paul Brodie's Shop

hi i'm paul brodie we're in my shop there's a  man on the other side of the camera his name   is mitch and we thank him for doing what  he does editing filming all that we had   some comments from some viewers there's a small  town in ohio and i have five different ways to   pronounce and pronunciate the name of the town so  mitch is going to flash that card up on screen and   i chose number four i think it's pronounced eliria  that's my best pronunciation so hopefully we can   just leave it at that now i also had a comment  yesterday from someone else and they say that   i'm pronouncing aramaki wrong i've been saying  it the same way for a lot of years and he thinks   that i should say it air maki well i talked with  a gentleman years ago when i got interested in   aramaki and he says that he was from that area  of northern italy where the bikes were built   and you need to roll the ah very  slightly it's subtle so it would be it's hard to do so i guess i'm lazy i say air  arrow maki i'm not rolling the r but you can   hear the r if i had to roll the r every time  that's a lot more work so sorry for my laziness   but here we are uh we've got some things to do  today i think what i'll do first is to update you   what what's going on i on the swing arm of the  aramaki i welded on the tab for the torque stay   and when i got that on i set the bike  up and that's when i discovered that   i made a torque stay the torque stays  too long the hole should be right here so   i have a piece of metal that's a little  shorter i get to save some weight too   i also i took the carb apart this is what we  worked on last week this is the intake system   i took the carb apart and we got all the pieces  here we got the slide we got the needle we got the   pilot jet main jet needle jet and everything  is wrong everything needs to be replaced so   i know that i can just order all this stuff but i  was thinking i've got lots of used used cob parts   none that are right so that's my list of what  i need so i'm putting this out to you if you   have stuff lying around on a shelf for years  that's what i need maybe we can do something   maybe you want to help out with the project  that would be great thank you we don't have   a big project today like backing plate intake  system i have a list i have a list of things to   do got seven things don't know if that's all going  to happen today but we'll we'll make a start first   thing we're going to do is to fix the dent in the  side case here so thanks for tuning in let's get   going we have the side case off the aramaki here  and can you see there's a dent here there's like   a flat you can maybe see that there's a flat spot  there so i haven't done this before but i thought   what i'd do is if i made something to hold here i  made up a pattern out of cardboard and i like the   shape of that so then i made something out of  aluminum can you see how it fits quite nicely   so i'm going to set that up then i'm going  to put a c-clamp on either side so i've got   a piece of metal i can bolt this hole it in there  and then i'm going to heat this up with a torch   and i've got a piece of wood i've rounded the end  a little bit there and when i heat it up i'm going   to use a hammer and i'm going to see if i can take  out that flat spot this is just flat bar it's like   maybe a couple of inches by half just regular  steel called roll flat bar when you heat something   like this you always keep the torch moving you  never just hold it on one spot keep it moving it should go a little a little  easier than that so a bit more heat still looks like there's a little bit of  a space there but it's definitely closer i think that's okay i don't put a cover in there  anyway because it's the clutch in there it's a   dry clutch so it's just open anyway so just for  make it look nice so i think we'll see that's good   we're going to work on the  wrist bracket i have a a drawing   i made and it's got the angles how much i got to  move the rotary table it's 26 degrees and then 34   and 26 34 because these holes go in between  the bolt holes so got the mill set up i'm   holding it on the inside of the bore here  going to use a center drill a drill that's   a little bit over three quarters and then the  boring bar to make a nice smooth smooth finish   i've spaced these holes a little bit wider than  what i've got shown there so hopefully we're good oh i see it's gonna flex oh  well let's see what happens okay so go to 43. we're going to put the boring  bar in now and just make a nice   small cut on each one i'm saving time  by rolling oiling them all at the outset so okay we just have to debur put a little chamfer  on each of the holes both sides and then   we're good i've got a stop here and then  i can make all of the chamfers identical there's my stop that's the cush drive i spray painted it gray and that's what it looks like that looks way more  racy we're going to weigh it now see how much   mitch how much weight did we save how  many grams how many holders it's 12.   96. i'm going for 35 grams so 248.5 subtract  192.8 equals 55.7 grams we save that's   that's a couple ounces okay  we're on to the next thing i'm going to make a talk stay  let's go look at the bike   and i'll show you what's going on on the swing  arm i i welded on the mount for the talk stay   i positioned the the backing plate where  i wanted so the air scoop is is vertical   and to my surprise that's where the hole wants to  be right there so i don't know what i was thinking   when i i i think i thought this was going to be up  a little more but this is where it sits nicely so   we need to make a new a new torque arm so  i got a piece of metal i'll mark it out   we're going to use the bandsaw  the rotary table and the mill   and some filing that bit that bit there  gets filed so i'm gonna mark it out first eight millimeter drill we're drilling metric now so i'm going to mill from this line  over to that line if you can see that i don't want to mark the surface so i got  some cardboard to put under there like that yes i'm trying to blend it  so that there's no sharp edge so i've got my quarter inch rod   with fuel line and i've got some emery that's  kind of used i think that might work okay i need to blend it i've got 180 paper here that's  going to make it a little smoother and for me that's good when you build a raised  bike it's kind of like a puzzle you have to find   all the pieces and sometimes that's not so not  so hard and sometimes it takes time these all   have to be drilled for safety wire and things  like that but right now it's mock-up still so all right so there we go that's one  torx they installed and someone said   you know you should have that on the outside  because if you ever had a crash and something   was to catch that well i think if you're sliding  down the road and something catches that you got   you got a lot of trouble aside from something  catching that so i think that'll be just fine over here we've got a five-speed   automaki transmission out of a 73 or 74  model and where the sprocket goes is on here just like that so this sits in the engine like so and this is the other part that goes like that  so these two mesh together that is your basic   five speed aramaki transmission so if you  want to go racing you need to make it a close   ratio so what you do is i ordered these parts out  of out of germany there's a gentleman over there   rudolph young johan and he's been selling racing  parts for a long time so you change the output see   this this goes there and this is replacing that  this is larger than that and this is smaller than   uh the gear here so you are are changing the  final ratio and by changing the final ratio   you alter all of the ratios in the transmission  it becomes close ratio so how we do this is we take off this and we put this one on like that that's really  simple this one here is not so simple because   it's it goes on it's like a spline it has  to be pressed on so we'll take off pieces and only only so much comes off after that it  doesn't come off now we go to the abba press   and i made these years ago we have to press off  this gear that's how you do the conversion if   you don't have these i don't know how you do  it you have to have something like this i'll   get some blocks to go under the side and we'll  press that off and then we'll press this gear on   so i've got some blocks to  build this up to get a height and i hold my hand under here to catch it there  you go it's not a really hard press fit but it   it's a press fit so that gets pressed on like so so i'll  get a socket or something to fit over here   i have to make sure this starts fairly  straight so just oh yeah there we go and that's the conversion done because these have to interlock here and if you  look you can see the rub marks where these have   been engaging in there so that goes on like so  and then when the shifter fork moves it over   it engages so there is a aramaki  transmission and now this is close ratio   so that's one more thing we can knock  off the list we've done four things today i ordered a a tachometer  for the bike and it came but   i think it's used look at that and all the ends  of the wires that's not brand new so and i didn't   like the face i like a white face this does not  look like a vintage tachometer all the yellow and black so the new attack is coming   just have to wait and the sharks are coming too  we don't have sharks yet so last thing we're going   to do is we're going to well today we're going  to work on the seat can you see how this is all   bowed down i think what happened is i didn't make  this i think it got taken out of the mold too fast   i don't know so anyway i have  to fix this because this mounts   onto here and this is flat so we need to make  this flat what i'm going to do is to cut this out cut it out we're going to mount this   this is going to be on some wax paper i've  set a height here so that when i do this see how it holds it like that and now  i can fiberglass the inside onto the   wax paper it's not going to stick to the wax  paper so we have to go through a process of of grinding away i've got a cut off wheel  which is a diamond wheel and we have to cut out   we have to round the corners i use a spiral roll  a cartridge roll and then we have to make a little   bit of a angle up and then we'll fiberglass this  so a little bit of fiberglass work today just to   mix it all up i got a diamond wheel here that's  what cuts fiberglass and it's dusty so i've got   a paint suit on so i don't get myself  too dusty and we'll just see what happens so so i'm looking for a small edge all along here  not not a step but just a thin edge and that looks that looks like it'll work so i'm going  to blow this off and we'll go inside we'll   we'll set up the fiberglassing i don't i don't cut the mat i always i always  rip it by hand because then when you flare it   in the edges with the resin it all becomes  smooth if you cut it you get a line and   i don't like the line so this just  helps me to know what size to rip that's about the size i need so  i can take some off right here so i'm i'm ripping it more or less  in a straight line or trying to it needs to come up the sides a little bit  so there it needs to overhang and you see   how it goes up the sides i'm going to  do three of these if you do too much you can get into a situation that's  called exotherm there's so much   resin there that it heats up and it starts to boil   almost you don't want that so if i do  three layers that's pretty strong and it won't exotherm so there's the three i've got my resin it's just  polyester resin nothing fancy i've got my catalyst   you mix at a ratio of one one to two percent  and then i'm going to put acetone into this   one because you you need to dip the brush in  sometimes or i might use a roller in the bottom i'm not pouring out of this big  container because it's pretty full   and i know i'm going to make a mess so i don't  need that much fiberglass so i'm just going to put enough into the yogurt container  and i think that's going to be enough okay so i'm going to estimate one to two percent  and it's a small job so i can work pretty quick there we go try that so what sets off the resin is light and heat  so now it's activated so it started it started   its its process of hardening up so when you when  you hold the container you don't want to hold it   on the bottom if you hold it like that you're  getting the heat from your hand in there you   don't want to do that you want to hold it  up here because then the heat from your hand   isn't affecting the actual resin there's  a lot of little tricks i learned off a   friend called george so we got the resin got  the cloth so we're going to wet it out a bit and this is why you wear gloves because it  ends up sticking to your hands and it's not always nice so there's the first layer this  is not going to take too long i've done my share of fiberglass i like i  like doing it i don't mind the smell so much   and it's neat what you can make out of   out of fiberglass and and matte cloth  you can make all sorts of shapes so i like that about it strong you can paint it i'm not seeing many air  bubbles here so that's good if you get a real compound shape that's  when you can get into bubbles and pockets so there's the second one and i  will use the little roller here if if when you're working and the brush starts  to go hard you just put it right into the acetone   i never knew that for years when i was doing  fiberglass the brush would start to go all weird   you know as it starts to dry i never knew that  you could you could put the brush into acetone   and then go right back to working that was  like that was a huge learning curve and also   on the roller you can put the roller into the  acetone and it helps to stop all the resin and   the cloth from sticking see all the little bubbles  in that you see that all little bubbles coming out this is one of the satisfying parts of when  you're laying up something you get it all   all of the resin and the cloth is on and then you  smooth it out with a roller and you get rid of all   the bubbles and it also helps to smooth it you can  go back and forth this way too so that's basically   we're basically done i just have to clean off my tools that turned out quite nice it's a simple  job it's not not complex but turned out fine if you don't wash your brush you don't  get to use it again pretty simple   we're going to build a throttle cable  now so while this is on the bench here   cylinder head intake system i wanted to show you  a couple things what you could do is to put the   put the throttle cable right into the cob and  then it has to kind of make its way up i like to   angle it with a stainless steel tube these are out  of the bicycle industry these are off of a v-brake   which now is getting to be a pretty old break so  they come in in in different bends and if you're   careful in the vise you can always open it up  or close it a little bit what's nice about these see inside there's a teflon liner so that helps  the cable to slide better so this end that's   what it comes with can you see how it's sloppy so  what i did here i made a custom little fitting out   of aluminum can you see how that's a nice fit and  that's i think that's going to angle pretty nicely   towards round to the throttle i wanted to talk  about the actual cable as well there's there's   two styles of cable basically this is like the old  style and it's wound like that there's one wire   that's closely bound and you can bend it and you  can break it see how it see how it kinks like that   i don't use this what i want is it's called sis  cable actually there's the this cable has the   wires running along the cable there's about  i don't know a couple dozen little wires so   you can bend this but it does not want to it  always wants to stay intact so i highly recommend   this kind of a cable on the inner cable inner  cables aren't all the same i like the old style   the ones you can solder if you get a new  one which is made out of stainless steel   you can't solder it so if you are going to make  up a cable always make sure that you can solder   it because you'll get a much better result  we're going to put this onto the bike now   and then we're going to figure out how much of the  outer cable we need and then we have to figure out   how much extra of the inner  cable goes down on each end   into the carburetor and put the other end into  the throttle so i'll show you how i do that   it's nice that you can put the cylinder  head on and off so easily it's very nice i think that's what i did last  time came around like that that's nice eh see it it's right  up close to the tube i like that okay so now the next thing is to figure out how long each end of the cable is going to be okay so that's how the cable fits in there  and the slides going all the way up and down   that's what it looks like maybe you want to shot  in there because some of the viewers are saying   well why don't you use a mikuni car but if you  look inside here do you see how everything is   perfectly smooth there's no irregularities  bumps or anything like that i think that's   why these carbs flow better so we're going to see  what's inside i haven't actually had this off yet see oh i see so you actually have to take it apart  to get the cable in there you can't just feed in   a cable just like this not like on my trials bike  that's a lot easier taking apart the throttle now okay that's coming through that's how that goes okay that's a lot of range so i'm  mocking the very end of the cable again 25 equals 8.575 i think that's  my it's not easy making cables   so after all that i think the cable  end is supposed to go right there   if i'm wrong that's a problem there's the  red felt pen line so we have to make a   a brass ferrule how long can that take not long so i got a v block here and i want to put a   punch right in the middle of it so now we need  a countersink because that's where the solder solder is going to go into that's what we end up with after all that   little piece of brass there we go there  we go and my felt pen line is right there okay we're going to try that there we go that's it kind of blob down the side but came off time to put it all together it's got a little bit of slop i need  to uh i need to work on it a bit but   here we go we got a throttle cable bit of work thanks for watching we hope you enjoyed all  these different little bits on a race bike   it's not just the big projects that make  a bike but a lot of little things as well   mitch and i like coffee if  you buy us a coffee that'd be   great thank you see you next week we'll  have another project for you stay safe you

Channel: paul brodie

Views: 25,483

Keywords: jig, fixture, alignment, frame building, framebuilding, steel, lathe, metal work, metalwork, mill, filing, custom, surface table, brazing, solder, close ratio, transmission, fibreglass, fiberglass, throttle, torque stay

Id: vjKpGWTwJLQ

Length: 36min 33sec (2193 seconds)

Published: Sat May 15 2021