Nukeproof Hub Rescue - with Paul Brodie

hi i'm paul brody this is my shop we're back in  it mitch is behind the camera as usual thank you   we're not doing any welding or or brazing today  we're gonna fix nuke proof hubs well one hub i   have a sample here and all of the flanges have  cracks so apparently this is a weak spot in the   nuke proof design great name i'm not sure if i can  say the same for the hub quality so if you zoom in   here you'll see what's going on see i got the red  felt pin can you see right there there's a crack   and it's basically in a straight line then you go  over here this one is cracked all the way through   in this hub here we have a very small crack and  the flange this flange just basically blew up   it's got a it's got the crack right through as  well and the spokes actually pulled out and this   was on here and then and after it cracked i think  what holds it out is there's a circlip here that   goes into there's the a circlip that goes into  the groove there and i think maybe that's what's   maybe helping to cause the crack because when you  put a groove in there that doesn't doesn't make   it any stronger so but it's cracked all the way  through so we're going to make up a new flange   we're going to drill a hole here  we're going to put a sleeve over here   and i've made up a upper drawing a sketch and  it's not going to have the grooves it's going   to have a shoulder and so this shoulder goes  up against the up against the carbon fiber here   and then this is this is where the bearing goes  and the bearing goes up to that shoulder there   so i think this is better and we're going to  make this longer as well because this i i take   some measurements and the hub is only supposed  to go on on 235 thou so it only goes on that   far and if they hold it in the light you can see  how there's a bunch of marks here so i'm going   to make the make the flange go up to about here  so it's going to be a little bit larger as well   that's our project for today this is  the metal i've got some 6061 i had it   so this is going to be used for the  reinforcing tube and the flange is   going to get made out of this piece it's  6061. nothing fancy but it'll be fine i need a drill that's close to this size now  so inch and a 16th so i'll see what i got   this is my cabinet of tools and up here  i got a bunch of drills and that's 8.75   it's this one too big okay  we're gonna go for seven eighths yeah i got my i got my boring boss  set up and we'll take some cuts so i'm going to hold it in the  in the chuck backwards and then   i'll machine this this down to the right width so the hub is we'll make it the  same length so another 165 thousand i've got press lube it's what you use  when you're pressing on the press it   helps to stop a little bit of galling or  seizing so we'll just see what happens here   i was gonna shrink it on but i decided not to and we'll put a little bit  on the inside of this too so i'll run that around with my finger oh i was going to drill a  hole that's what i forgot okay so i've punched it there and i'm gonna   drill a very small hole a little bit larger  than a sixteenth here we go don't need much i'll smooth it around there with my  finger this hole here and this piece here   is a little bit large but this is a better size  so that goes on like that there's the chamfer so let's see what happens oh yeah that went on fine so there's a  little bit of a press fit it's not huge but and that's what it looks like when it's on you can see a line there a little bit but   i don't think that matters too  much what i could try and do i have to face this end anyway so let's hold  this in the chuck see if it runs fairly true   and maybe i can just face that in there  so it looks uniform let's have a look it's not bad okay so i'm gonna take a little   little cut off the end so  that you can't see those two that there's two pieces i'm gonna i'm gonna see if   i can make it look like one piece  and not not nick the carbon fiber okay now we're going to make this flange  so yeah i want the flange to go up to there   so it's 374 let's say 375 and i had it at  at 2 35 so 375 is we're adding on 140 thou   that's the new total and then over here the flange  was going to be 335 so we'll add on 140 under that that makes it 475. so one thing i've done  is to increase the size this is my other hub   if you look at the size here of the flange  it's 1.025 we're going to make it 1.055   so that makes it just a little bit stronger and  the flange is going to have a shoulder inside   it's going to get drilled for 32 holes so i've  marked all that out that's on the other piece   of paper every 22.5 degrees we're going to  use the rotary table so first step is to make something like this i'm just mocking with a felt pin where  how far in i want to drill the hole i'm going to bore the hole now for the hub  and the hub is carbon fiber and it's not a   it's not a smooth surface and so the measurement  is kind of all over the place a little bit but it's going to get bonded in there so  i need a little bit of space for the glue   it's a two-part glue i want to show you how my  system works for those of you that are interested   i've set the compound here to zero i've put the  tool up against there i've got a dial indicator   here i set to zero i know the depth is 279 000  so if i pull this back each of these is 125 so   that is 250 and i went 279 so it's it it's 29  thou more so when i go up to the up to the 29   when i go in and this goes to the zero  that's my 279 going in because i don't   have a digital readout so this  is what i do to make this work   and it works it works fine i've done it lots of  times so let's take a small cut see where we are so going in there is 279th hour because i went  to the zero on the dial indicator all right   i hope that makes sense to  those of you that are interested   so i'm taking out another 130 thou about so  half of that is 65 so if i set this to 65 here   when i go down to the zero  that's close i need to check it there we go a little bit of room for the glue so i'm gonna face down  the od and we'll make a flange this is the hub side so we're going to  go 475. so one two three 375 plus 100 that should be 475 okay so now hacksaw i'll cut it off we'll  turn it around and do some more machining a little bit over a hundredth hour to come off i'm going to do the bore next and  i got to be really accurate on that this is where i have to be very careful so i got a fuse out to come out i  actually got about eighths out to come out so there we go that's half a thou press fit you  can see how it almost it almost wants to start   the flange is supposed to be  140. so there we go it's 148   so that's good it leaves  me a little bit to come off so that's what it's looking like i'm going to drill some holes now for  spokes so we've got to go to the mill   put on the rotary table that's next we've got  the flange in the chuck in the rotary table   i've got it set at zero for the table   i made up a a piece of paper with all the all  of the degrees on it because it's a 32 hole hub   16 holes beside you divide 16 into 360. it's  22.5 so i have to drill a hole every 22.5 degrees   i'm going to go switch on power and we'll drill  some holes i'm not going to drill all the way   through this is the center drill i'm just  mocking the holes and then we'll go to the   drill press we'll drill the hole through put  chamfers on it and then it can get glued on so the holes are drilled with a center drill so  now we have to drill the holes all the way through   so i'm going to match the size i got a set of number drills  here they're pretty handy there we go that's that's the right size okay okay it's a nice looking little flange so  i'm taking some memory cloth and i'm gonna   make the inside of where it goes onto  the carbon fiber i'm gonna rough it up   just a little bit i don't really want to  take much metal out but just to make it a   bit rougher so that the glue can hold it and  i'll roughen this up just a little bit too this is my glue it's called prattly steel i got  it years ago it came out of south africa of all   places so it works really well on aluminum  carbon fiber things like that not on steel   it says proudly steel but i found  it on steel doesn't work so well   but aluminum for sure it's two-part so you need one of the black and one of the white and you can machine it you can  do all sorts of stuff with this pretty equal probably way more  than i need just a welding rod it sets up in about four or five  minutes then it'll hold and then   after four hours six hours it's set i don't want to put too much in there and  then if you get excess on it you can you   can take a little bit of lacquer thinner  and that'll take it off take off the excess these holes have to be staggered you  can't put the holes in line with each   other otherwise you won't be able to  lace up the rim so that's important can you see how the holes are staggered   this hole should be halfway between  these two just taking off the excess   and then if i do this now this is just lack of  thinner it's kind of dirty lack of thinner but just wipe it round like that there we go you can hardly see the glue at all and just check to make sure it didn't move it   that looks good so we'll just leave that right  now and that'll set up and that's basically done success thank you for watching our video on how to  fix a nuke proof hub if you like what you see you   can like you can subscribe or if you have a phone  there's a little arrow that's a link you can click   on that on your computer it says show more there's  links you can buy shirts hoodies mugs and you can   buy us a coffee mitch and i both like really good  coffee so thanks again stay safe see you next week you

Channel: paul brodie

Views: 25,750

Keywords: jig, fixture, alignment, frame building, framebuilding, lathe, metal work, metalwork, mill, filing, bicycle, custom, hub, nukeproof, flange, spokes, repair, broken, vintage, retro

Id: u5UVlf63iGE

Length: 22min 37sec (1357 seconds)

Published: Sat Jan 23 2021