Advanced V Carve Inlay Tutorial

be carve inlays are something that I've wanted to do ever since I got my CNC machine so today I'm not just going to show you how to set this one up but I'm going to teach you why they work so you can go ahead and do your own designs [Music] [Applause] [Music] [Applause] [Music] all right we're just jumping right into this one and what I'm doing for this demo is just using this 50 star Union and the only thing we need to do to be able to create an inlay is draw a rectangle around this so now all we need to do is go to our tool path tab and let's start by making the piece that's going to be the pocket so I'm just gonna select all of the stars for that and we're gonna do an advanced V carve now this piece is pretty small so we could probably just get away with doing a regular V carve on this part but just to keep everything standard I'm gonna use the advanced V carve feature we're gonna enable this area pocket and because this is so small I'm actually going to change this tool to just another V bit and now here's the important part we have our start depth and our max depth so for the pocket we want a start depth of zero and a max depth of point two and now if we zoom in here you can see that with the advanced Veeck our feature it's gonna clear out more of this area in the bottom but it's gonna leave this flat and it's doing that with that sixty degree V bit so let's take a look at the simulation real quick and they really just looked like a regular be carved star there's just a slight flat bottom to them alright now we need to do our inlay part and for that we're gonna select everything so we want the stars and the rectangle that we drew around them selected again we're gonna click advanced V carve will enable the pocket tool this time we're gonna keep it that 1/8 inch bit I just want to adjust these feed rates a little bit so now my normal feed rate for an eighth inch bit like this is going to be about a hundred on the feed and probably 80 on the plunge but I'm gonna turn that down a little bit so we're gonna go 70 on the feed and 50 on the plunge and I'm leaving the depth per pass at point zero 5 and I'll explain to you why I'm turning these numbers down a little bit so for the inlay we want our start depth to be at point one so it's actually going to start cutting below the top surface of our material and when we combine this with our depth for pass that's going to give us a point one five zero inch depth of cut our max depth we're still gonna leave at point two and then we'll just name it and click OK now let me disable the pocket and I'll show you what this simulation looks like so you can see here it's clearing all around our stars and it's just leaving a little bit of the top of that star flat so that's all we need to do to set this up we're gonna save these as two separate tool paths and we're gonna run the pocket on one piece of material and then the inlay on another but before we do this I want to switch gears real quick and show you on some larger stars exactly what's going on here because I want you guys to understand why we're making those offset changes all right so what I've done here is I've just drawn these four stars and this first one is going to be our pocket and then these next three are going to be our inlays so what I've got on this one is a start depth of zero and a max depth of 1 on star number two we have a start depth of 0.1 and a max depth of 0.2 and on star number three we have a start depth of point zero five and a max depth of 0.15 so let's go ahead and cut these out real quick all right and I'm starting with the eighth inch end mill and you're gonna see me here switch into the sixty degree V bit and it's important to keep in mind that if you're using carbide create to do this you're going to need either the bit setter or like these depth stop collars like I'm using here and I'll put a link in the description to show you how I set these up and another thing that's a little bit of a pain is that it does each one individually so you can't just run like your eighth inch end mill and machine everything with that and then switch to the 60-degree wee bit and machine everything with that you have to keep switching like you're seeing me do here [Music] [Music] so after I cut those test pieces out on the router I went ahead and I used my miter saw to cut them in half so you'll be able to see this a little better and I also took the negative side or the pocket side and I've made this gray so it'll be a little easier to see so keep in mind that our pocket side has a flat bottom depth of 0.2 inches and we're gonna go ahead and start with piece number 1 which is a start depth of 0 and a max depth of 0.1 you can see that if I go to put that together it actually doesn't really fit it doesn't lock together because the top surface where these outermost points are is the same size as the top surface on this piece that we're trying to fit into it now our second one has a start depth of 0.1 and a max depth of 0.2 and you can see that this one fits inside and this one leaves us with a space that's point 1 inches and our final one has a start depth of 0.05 and a max depth of 0.15 zero and you can see how when we put this together we get a gap of 0.15 zero so I hope that gives you a good visual representation of what's gonna happen when you adjust your start and your max depth and I know that can get a little confusing don't get too hung up on those numbers the most important thing to keep in mind is that you don't want to do it with a zero start depth you're going to need something there because you need that gap for your glue to go into but you don't want it to be too big like the 0.1 50 gap that we had that was probably too big and that's actually going to be weak on the inlay that we're putting in there so if you were doing this on a cutting board or something that could definitely be a spot that could fail I try to keep them tight like the 0.1 and you can play with these numbers and get them even tighter if you'd like to the pocket side of these is pretty straightforward the stars that we cut just a second ago where it gets a little confusing is what we're working on right here and that's the in light side and you can see what it's doing first is it's using that eighth inch bit it's just clearing out a bunch of that material and then we'll switch over to that 60-degree V bit and it's gonna cut everything into the shape that'll fit into our V carve and it just leaves a little bit of material around the edge and I go ahead and cut that off with my miter saw and that's just because of the way that I had this job set up you could you know completely eliminate that in the machining process if you wanted then I just take on a medium bristled brush and I go ahead and brush those pieces out and here you can see both pieces you can see on the inlay piece the maple that I've cleaned that edge off like I said and it's very important that both of these pieces are very clean you know you don't want any little fibers or anything trying to squeeze in between them because they could cause this to be uneven and you really want to get a lot of glue in there make sure every little part of your pocket is filled with glue if there's too much it'll just squeeze out this is a little overkill here I go ahead and wipe some of this off but really you can't have too much glue when you're doing these clamping is also very important at the end I'll show you where I had a little problem which was caused by my clamping in the video here I'm just putting a couple clamps on I did put a couple more on but probably what would have been better would be to have sandwiched these two pieces between a couple other pieces of wood and once that's dry I just go ahead and use that same surfacing bit and I'm just barely cutting into the top of that cherry just to clean this up nicely and again I'm doing that manually [Music] [Applause] [Music] so overall I'm pretty happy with this I would definitely call it a success but you can see here in the middle where I did have a little issue with the Stars not being pressed in hard enough in the center that's probably just because I didn't have enough clamps there so that's something important to keep in mind when you're doing yours thanks for all the support you guys have been giving me I really appreciate a like share and a comment on the video and that lets YouTube know to start showing my stuff to more people and a big thank you to these guys right here for supporting me on patreon I really appreciate it guys [Music]

Channel: Chris Powell

Views: 30,834

Keywords: carbide create, carbide 3d, shapeoko, shapeoko xxl, cnc router, cnc, v carve, v carve inlays, cnc inlay, cnc inlays, v carve inlay, wooden inlay, how to, tutorial, carbide create tutorial, full steam designs, chris powell, wooden flags, wooden flag

Id: 4D0xLTEhOZM

Length: 11min 6sec (666 seconds)

Published: Thu May 14 2020

Reddit Comments

[u/Hive_Tyrant7]

Just what I needed with a project I'm about to start, appreciate you wasting those nice stars to provide some examples!

[u/ShiftedLobster]

Looking forward to watching your tutorial later tonight!

[u/wdoler]

If what you are carving is asymmetrical, remember to flip one of the images!